On my 1:1 crawler I have serious flex i control the droop that effects climbing with a limit strap in the center of the axle to chassis. Still get flex but controlled droop.
@@thomaswhetstone2870 hey wondering what rd crawler you will be getting ? Is it your first ? And reasons beating behind your decision please help me decide which to get as I can’t get more then one I’m told so the one I get I’ll be going all out on lol
@@notimefornonsense2170 i would definitely get the axial scx24 or the 10 if your budget allows so many upgrades for either one. fist rc in a long long time
@@rekik66 and you got to get the cr24 motor from Hobby Plus 17% faster help with the uphill and run out on the downhill with the overdrive in the front which is I think 14% faster no Springs on the double barrel kinetic shocks with rubber bands only in the front is what I run you can give it a try tricks of the trade brother keep up the good work it's awesome waking up to these videos every day 👍 and it's funny I started building I 1/24 scale garage a month ago great minds think alike LOL
For me what worked is mixing the kinetic shock with the stock springs, that way it will keep the extensión and the stock shocks will make the woobling better
I completely agree with you. I am not sold on those with your setup. Which is similar to mine. I have the dsfabworx cf chassis that has a 5 degree angle to it and suck the front end down a tad bit. Adjusted the rear links as well to try and keep the front end from lifting. I give up a small amount of ground clearance but don’t flip over as often.
Personal experience and opinion. Double barrels are great with the right set up. You gotta limit them with either straps or my personal favorite, swap the long silver screw in shaft for a shorter 1.4mm SCX24 screw which shortens the double barrel but makes it longer than stock still.
The double barrels are definitely a “specific situation” type of aftermarket part, certain vehicles can benefit from them but in my opinion none of the 1/24 crawlers I have work well with them, to each their own though 😄👍🏻
Agreed. It’s all about your setup. They work great in a Low Center of Gravity (LCG) setup with long travel. The shocks on the Jeep in the video could benefit from flipping them upside down (reduced binding) a shock mount position, remove the springs, add straps. “One mod leads to more mods to make the mod work”
All about appearance (to me!) Those shocks rock that Jeep. As a true rock crawler should look! But for me, I think they would be a liability. Maybe later when my skill level increases, I would love that mod. Tough looking Jeep! Great video. Thank you!
I've run these now for quite a while. I love the articulation, but don't like the Go-Go-Gadget lift when you hang up on that front diff. I first was using HR springs in them, now I am using the Very Light Pressure springs that are for them. I think some front Full Send wheel weights (at least front) may help with your lift/flip hill climb. I have not had the flip back issue, but I am running more weight in my jeep.
Awesome video awesome vehicles awesome track hard work pays off in your hard work shows and dedication and passion with the hobby really enjoying, looking forward to your videos.
That does sound interesting I might have to look into that but also if I use limiting straps on the shocks then it seems like it might defeat the purpose of having the long double barrel shocks in the first place
I'd try cutting one or two coils out of the springs. Maybe that'll reduce the upwards push. Also maybe adding a dab of graphite to lubricate the piston so it'll naturally slip back down? Only issue is washout from mud or water.
A high mirror polish on the outside of the brass barrels will really smooth the travel out. If you want, you can also do a high polish to the inside of the silver barrels as well, tedious work tho, so I suggest just polishing the outside of the brass barrels.
i have had to do the same to mine. I have also lightly greased the inside of the top tube. i wish there was a way to control some of the wicked flex but... I found o-rings that fit the top tube. i can give my springs (soft) preload just by sliding them down a little.
I’ve seen a lot of people say that and I think they would help but also if you limit the suspension travel with limiting straps then you are kind defeating the point of the longer traveling double barrel shocks and might as well keep standard ones on the vehicle... so I dk lol either way they are fun to run! 😎👍🏻
Informative vid and good info to have on the product. It's a lot of travel, which is cool, but otherwise they kinda suck appearing more appropriate for poseur photoshots than function.
If you find some O-rings that are small enough. You can put them over the top tube. It gives you a way to preload your springs. Just nudge them up or down to make adjmnts. Make sure they fit tight so they don't slide too easy. Sorry i don't remeber the dia of mine or I'd just post it. Also. I found that i had to use the soft springs or else it rode high like yours does (I have the jeep too).
At the end of the day you can only do so much with a SCX24.. I realized after hours of videos a fully upgraded , from tire weights to new servos/ motors , it only makes the rig from stock about 65% better. If you love the hobby of modifications , which some do ! Then that’s great .. but if you truly want performance to a high scale degree , then go 1:10 crawler. I love the scx24 and personally I just do very small upgrades and keep most of them stock and just enjoy the trailing over landing aspect of these vs crawling over rocks that are larger than the vehicle itself lol
They set automatically. You only need to UNLOCK the safeties. To lower the vehicle. It’s pretty cool! I do enjoy seeing the hoists he made. They are awesome. Even tho he didn’t really use them to fix anything tho. Lol still cool.
I put little springs inside the shocks of my scx10. They sit under the plunger and (lightly) resist the shocks extending all the way. Think they had a technical name, can't remember, maybe droop springs? Wonder if one could fit something like that to at least one of the stages in this shock. If you could get it to work it might give the best of both worlds. Dunno. Shock setup for crawlers always seems to need a little black magic for max results.
mine will arrive tomorrow from ebay and I can already see im gonna use my own springs, or just end up making some. Thanks for the video and the heads up
Nice video brother. While they definitely aren't great for hilling, those shocks would be great for trailing and flat technical courses👍🏻👊🏼 nice review bud
I'm waiting for mine. Been thinking of how i'm gonna deal with this problem. I was thinking a single strap in the middle to get the articulation but not have it lift as much. Rubber band might be the best of both worlds. Thank you! :).
Rubber band was either to loose or too tight depending on situation. Single strap in the middle worked great! I'm guessing whatever wire works but I used some thin steel braid wire from my fishing kit. Works perfectly.
@@oddguy2829 can you elaborate on this fix? I have the carisma oil filled shocks (without oil) on my deadbolt, and while the travel is awesome, I tip over all the time…. Thanks!!
I noticed with these shocks and overdrive front worm gears it wants to jack up the shocks too. When you go foward it raises up and backwards it lowers 😂 but on flat ground. So the shocks went bye bye
Then why even have them if you're going to limit them? Completely defeats the purpose of these. And they're shitty shocks so why not just use a much better, shorter shock?
Dont know why people keep buying new shocks/springs, when the OEM ones are perfect for these things. I get 1 tire(OEM Nitto's) high flex on all 4 corners using stock shocks relocated off the towers to the frame.
Can you put a light spring under the piston inside? I had a crawler with droop suspension that would do similar...so I put a spring inside that wanted to compress the shock...that kept the ride height in a state of fully compressed shocks...but let each wheel drop inches when it needed to.
An easy fix for this would be a center limit strap , that’s what they use in the real world to control total droop but still allow the side to side droop. The problem is finding a limit strap or something similar to that for this scale.
I used a string tied at on each side of the axle and running through an eyehole mounted to the chassis. Change the length of string to change your max droop.
@@michaelmacdonald4433 You might want to try a single string to the centre of the axle. That way you can still get the full flex but the truck as a whole is prevented from lifting too much on steep climbs.
Fix the problem the same way they fix this problem on full size crawlers. 1st put a thin shock oil in your shocks to stop the abrupt springing effect. Then when climbing a steep angle & full articulation isn't necessary use limiting straps to limit the travel of the shocks. Problem solved.
Cool video Seems like the front spring is too stiff for the weight you have upfront. The rear seems ok with the weight you have in the back. I’m strictly judging based on how the fronts unload on the hill climb. The rear doesn’t seem to unload as much on the descent. Like someone else said, the stock springs on the front will probably help quite a bit
Not sure if this is 100% true, but I believe you can just put overdrive gears in the front and eliminate that unloading while going up hill without limiting straps
@@UpperLeftRC dang, yea I wasn't 100% sure, I ended up finally getting overdrive gears and all though it eliminated my unloading it did give me alot of torque twist, probably doesn't help that I got a much bigger motor tho lol
Only thing that might help there is tiny internal springs under the screw head to make them sorta act like a droop set up on the lower portions or rubber bands for limiting down travel, like others have suggested. For mine, I’ll just stick with the stockers or the HotRacing shocks with the stiff spring in the back and soft up front that it just got. I don’t mind if it hangs a tire while crawling.
You probably won’t read this. On my scx24 I had the double barrel shocks on all 4 corner of my rig. I switched the front with just the regular hot racing shocks. It is such a better crawler.
You just need to put limiting straps as close to the diff as possible. You want to limit the diffs distance from the front but not the side to side of the wheels to fenders.
This is why ur big 1/1 crawlers have a suck down winch in the front when climbing steep u can suck tht front axle back up to fully compressed & climb on up
I'm not an expert but I was watching a video before I saw this one.....someone relocate the stock shocks from shock mounts to mount it on the frame or chassis toward inside the body......wondering if it perform better by relocating shocks with your kinetic.
Yeah I’ve tried a couple different things with these shocks and I’ve just never been happy with their performance, but that’s just my opinion, I know a ton of people who absolutely love double barrel shocks 🤙🏻
Would stretching the spring and cutting it shorter help at all? I know on a real car it’d be a horrible idea, but with such a small scale, would such a change harm it or help? I’d imagine the stretch and less spring material would lessen the effect of the spring wanting to fully max out the shock. Or try finding replacement springs with a lower/softer rate?
@@wickedweiner that's not true the Mexican lowrider what do you think they got that term they take the coil springs and cut a couple of them off on each side.
I tried the Kinetics on all my SCX24’s and didn’t care for them. No matter what I tried the 2 tubes would bind when the collapsed. Even tried them upside down & polished the brass still didn’t help.
Good video, just a thought.....would having overdrive gears on front help with climbing so the worm drives are more relaxed while going up as not to lock the suspension in a raised position?
Absolutely that would help a ton, I don’t have any over drive gears but I’ve seen people who do for the scx24 and I think I should get some and revisit these shocks 😄👍🏻
On my 1:1 crawler I have serious flex i control the droop that effects climbing with a limit strap in the center of the axle to chassis. Still get flex but controlled droop.
Its funny as hell to me how many things transfer from the real things 😂 i cant wait to get one
@@thomaswhetstone2870 hey wondering what rd crawler you will be getting ? Is it your first ? And reasons beating behind your decision please help me decide which to get as I can’t get more then one I’m told so the one I get I’ll be going all out on lol
@@notimefornonsense2170 i would definitely get the axial scx24 or the 10 if your budget allows so many upgrades for either one. fist rc in a long long time
I am playing with rubber band limit straps right now on my deadbolt I will have to try a single one in the middle instead of two on the corners
Made a limiting strap out of old jewelry chain and a necklace clasp. It works like a "charm" and is adjustable because of the chain links.
Such a good analysis. Great demonstration as well! I just started getting into 1/24 crawlers and I’m soaking in all the knowledge from you vids.
Just use a small winch in place of limiting straps you can tighten the axle up to the frame for climbing hills
Overdrive helps keeping it stretched out and hair tie or rubber bands and your shocks moved to the more articulation spots 👍
Never thought of the overdrive. I would be willing to try them with the OD.
@@rekik66 and you got to get the cr24 motor from Hobby Plus 17% faster help with the uphill and run out on the downhill with the overdrive in the front which is I think 14% faster no Springs on the double barrel kinetic shocks with rubber bands only in the front is what I run you can give it a try tricks of the trade brother keep up the good work it's awesome waking up to these videos every day 👍 and it's funny I started building I 1/24 scale garage a month ago great minds think alike LOL
@@shawnbiers2506 added to the list of parts to get. Haha! Thanks for the info!
I dunno that it’s available for this scale but if the front was slightly overdriven, it might stop the wheelbase wanting to shorten up. Cool stuff.
For me what worked is mixing the kinetic shock with the stock springs, that way it will keep the extensión and the stock shocks will make the woobling better
I completely agree with you. I am not sold on those with your setup. Which is similar to mine. I have the dsfabworx cf chassis that has a 5 degree angle to it and suck the front end down a tad bit. Adjusted the rear links as well to try and keep the front end from lifting. I give up a small amount of ground clearance but don’t flip over as often.
I found them to be a little sticky so I installed them upside down and covered them in graphite powder. Made a big improvement to their movement.
Yeah I have this lift in my little scale garage, they are awesome
What are they called?
You can you please tell me what they are called
what are the lifts called?
Awesome beautiful video and stuffs for your new garage👍🥰
That's awesome! I didnt know the lift was motorized!! I just thought they were just a bigger version of a hot wheels lift 😂 ( slide it by hand)
Put just the double barrel shocks in the rear and standard in front. Climbs great and still get good contact with the ground when articulating
Was wondering about that
That’s a fact sure climbs inclines better doesn’t tip over backwards as easy
I replaced those full length springs with the stock springs. Helped with the ride height.
mind blown when you suddenly rear steered! subbed !
Personal experience and opinion. Double barrels are great with the right set up. You gotta limit them with either straps or my personal favorite, swap the long silver screw in shaft for a shorter 1.4mm SCX24 screw which shortens the double barrel but makes it longer than stock still.
The double barrels are definitely a “specific situation” type of aftermarket part, certain vehicles can benefit from them but in my opinion none of the 1/24 crawlers I have work well with them, to each their own though 😄👍🏻
Agreed. It’s all about your setup. They work great in a Low Center of Gravity (LCG) setup with long travel. The shocks on the Jeep in the video could benefit from flipping them upside down (reduced binding) a shock mount position, remove the springs, add straps. “One mod leads to more mods to make the mod work”
All about appearance (to me!) Those shocks rock that Jeep. As a true rock crawler should look! But for me, I think they would be a liability. Maybe later when my skill level increases, I would love that mod. Tough looking Jeep! Great video. Thank you!
Pretty cool but sometimes flex isn’t always the answer. Love the demonstration and video!
I've run these now for quite a while. I love the articulation, but don't like the Go-Go-Gadget lift when you hang up on that front diff. I first was using HR springs in them, now I am using the Very Light Pressure springs that are for them. I think some front Full Send wheel weights (at least front) may help with your lift/flip hill climb. I have not had the flip back issue, but I am running more weight in my jeep.
hahahahahaha Go-Go-Gadget lift got me so bad hahaha
If you take the springs out your body will want to sit lower but you will still get full articulation but you sacrifice stability
LOL classic
Awesome video awesome vehicles awesome track hard work pays off in your hard work shows and dedication and passion with the hobby really enjoying, looking forward to your videos.
Looks great for parking on sticks and tipping over.
Cinemoto's channel yesterday used fishing line for limiting the suspension with the kinetic shocks. I haven't tried it yet but it looks interesting
That does sound interesting I might have to look into that but also if I use limiting straps on the shocks then it seems like it might defeat the purpose of having the long double barrel shocks in the first place
I'd try cutting one or two coils out of the springs. Maybe that'll reduce the upwards push. Also maybe adding a dab of graphite to lubricate the piston so it'll naturally slip back down? Only issue is washout from mud or water.
A high mirror polish on the outside of the brass barrels will really smooth the travel out. If you want, you can also do a high polish to the inside of the silver barrels as well, tedious work tho, so I suggest just polishing the outside of the brass barrels.
i have had to do the same to mine. I have also lightly greased the inside of the top tube. i wish there was a way to control some of the wicked flex but... I found o-rings that fit the top tube. i can give my springs (soft) preload just by sliding them down a little.
I love to see this with several mount point options to see the effect.
Yep as mentioned by someone else I believe limiting straps would help.
I’ve seen a lot of people say that and I think they would help but also if you limit the suspension travel with limiting straps then you are kind defeating the point of the longer traveling double barrel shocks and might as well keep standard ones on the vehicle... so I dk lol either way they are fun to run! 😎👍🏻
UpperLeft RC, just put one limiting strap in the middle. That way you get full articulation but the front end can't go way up.
Wonder what it would be like with them just on the rear and standard on the front
Turn the shocks upside down, mount to the frame. Remove the springs or trim to just give tire clearance.
Informative vid and good info to have on the product. It's a lot of travel, which is cool, but otherwise they kinda suck appearing more appropriate for poseur photoshots than function.
If you find some O-rings that are small enough. You can put them over the top tube. It gives you a way to preload your springs. Just nudge them up or down to make adjmnts. Make sure they fit tight so they don't slide too easy. Sorry i don't remeber the dia of mine or I'd just post it. Also. I found that i had to use the soft springs or else it rode high like yours does (I have the jeep too).
At the end of the day you can only do so much with a SCX24.. I realized after hours of videos a fully upgraded , from tire weights to new servos/ motors , it only makes the rig from stock about 65% better. If you love the hobby of modifications , which some do ! Then that’s great .. but if you truly want performance to a high scale degree , then go 1:10 crawler. I love the scx24 and personally I just do very small upgrades and keep most of them stock and just enjoy the trailing over landing aspect of these vs crawling over rocks that are larger than the vehicle itself lol
I am thinking that you should add waited bumpers
Be careful, I didn't see you set the safeties on your lift lol
Automatic bud. No safety setting necessary
They set automatically. You only need to UNLOCK the safeties. To lower the vehicle. It’s pretty cool!
I do enjoy seeing the hoists he made. They are awesome. Even tho he didn’t really use them to fix anything tho. Lol still cool.
Tippppyyyy but the articulation was great! Great video!
I put little springs inside the shocks of my scx10. They sit under the plunger and (lightly) resist the shocks extending all the way. Think they had a technical name, can't remember, maybe droop springs? Wonder if one could fit something like that to at least one of the stages in this shock. If you could get it to work it might give the best of both worlds. Dunno. Shock setup for crawlers always seems to need a little black magic for max results.
mine will arrive tomorrow from ebay and I can already see im gonna use my own springs, or just end up making some. Thanks for the video and the heads up
Nice video brother. While they definitely aren't great for hilling, those shocks would be great for trailing and flat technical courses👍🏻👊🏼 nice review bud
I agree 100% 😄👍🏻
That mini car lift if hilarious!
installed mine on the rear at an angle w/ hard springs and HR shocks in front w/ soft springs.. Works perfect 👍🏽
Maybe a rubber band to act as a limiting strap. Then when it actually needs the articulation it will stretch the rudderband. Lol
I might need to look into that! 😄
Great idea 💡
I'm waiting for mine. Been thinking of how i'm gonna deal with this problem. I was thinking a single strap in the middle to get the articulation but not have it lift as much. Rubber band might be the best of both worlds. Thank you! :).
Rubber band was either to loose or too tight depending on situation. Single strap in the middle worked great! I'm guessing whatever wire works but I used some thin steel braid wire from my fishing kit. Works perfectly.
@@oddguy2829 can you elaborate on this fix? I have the carisma oil filled shocks (without oil) on my deadbolt, and while the travel is awesome, I tip over all the time…. Thanks!!
Put an overdrive pinion in the front axle it will cause the front to pull away faster than the rear can catch up keeping the top down
I noticed with these shocks and overdrive front worm gears it wants to jack up the shocks too. When you go foward it raises up and backwards it lowers 😂 but on flat ground. So the shocks went bye bye
Before I even watch. I had to sub just because of the lift!
You need to rig up a front suck down winch like used on a real off road vehicle for those steep climbs.
Do stock shocks up front, double barrel shocks in the rear with the stock shock springs.
Have you thought of putting a limiter strap (fishing line would probably work) in the front to keep the front down and keep articulation?
Then why even have them if you're going to limit them? Completely defeats the purpose of these. And they're shitty shocks so why not just use a much better, shorter shock?
Dont know why people keep buying new shocks/springs, when the OEM ones are perfect for these things. I get 1 tire(OEM Nitto's) high flex on all 4 corners using stock shocks relocated off the towers to the frame.
might get a set of these shocks and just use them in the rear on both my little trucks
Micro winch on the body hooked to the axle to pull the front down on demand
Need a limiting strap in them so they dnt drop out the whole axle but will still get the flex
Hey maybe you can put a limiting strap in the centre of the axle to frame
awesome video but where can i find that 4runner !!!! looks awesome!!!
I would take off the front springs or in fact all of them almost like a low center gravity rig
Sorry if I missed something but where can I get that car lift from ? Love the video.
Put a winch on it so you can suck the front suspension down like they do with the 1:1 with soft suspension.
Can you put a light spring under the piston inside? I had a crawler with droop suspension that would do similar...so I put a spring inside that wanted to compress the shock...that kept the ride height in a state of fully compressed shocks...but let each wheel drop inches when it needed to.
An easy fix for this would be a center limit strap , that’s what they use in the real world to control total droop but still allow the side to side droop. The problem is finding a limit strap or something similar to that for this scale.
I used a string tied at on each side of the axle and running through an eyehole mounted to the chassis. Change the length of string to change your max droop.
@@michaelmacdonald4433 You might want to try a single string to the centre of the axle. That way you can still get the full flex but the truck as a whole is prevented from lifting too much on steep climbs.
I'd see if they make swaybars for that model to help with the body roll
Put a little winch on it and use it as a limiting strap? Probably won’t be to scale but it should help
I put the kinetic shocks on mine and they make a difference. And that's a cool lift. 👍👍
Thank you 😄👍🏻
Fix the problem the same way they fix this problem on full size crawlers. 1st put a thin shock oil in your shocks to stop the abrupt springing effect. Then when climbing a steep angle & full articulation isn't necessary use limiting straps to limit the travel of the shocks. Problem solved.
Get treal overdrive gears for the front axle. The overdrive makes the rear drag just enough to level out the truck
That’s a great way to fix the body popping up issue! 😄👍🏻
How much overdrive do you recommend
Remove the springs from the shock absorbers and do all those tests again... you will notice the difference and the improvement in the car
Flip those double barrels upside down to reduce compression bind. Let gravity help the secondary barrels find their home easier.
Have you tried adding weight to it to see if that keeps it settled?
these would be awesome on a rock bouncer scx24 conversion
That lift is super cool..
Tell me you made that lift with spare rc parts, new sub love the content
How are they in a droop setup? (Without springs) I like the amount of travel, but I'd still like to be able to go pretty steep
Wonder if the overdrive gears in the front would help it out more with the shocks
I’ve tried that, it helps a little but not a ton
Cool video
Seems like the front spring is too stiff for the weight you have upfront. The rear seems ok with the weight you have in the back. I’m strictly judging based on how the fronts unload on the hill climb. The rear doesn’t seem to unload as much on the descent. Like someone else said, the stock springs on the front will probably help quite a bit
Not sure if this is 100% true, but I believe you can just put overdrive gears in the front and eliminate that unloading while going up hill without limiting straps
I’ve tried that and even with a lot of weight over the front axle to keep traction, at any substantial incline it’s still unloads :/
@@UpperLeftRC dang, yea I wasn't 100% sure, I ended up finally getting overdrive gears and all though it eliminated my unloading it did give me alot of torque twist, probably doesn't help that I got a much bigger motor tho lol
How would they do at different upper mounting locations? Would angling them in reduce the "lift" when driving around but still provide extra droop?
I don’t think angling them would change the “lift” but I’m not sure, might have to try it 👍🏻
Only thing that might help there is tiny internal springs under the screw head to make them sorta act like a droop set up on the lower portions or rubber bands for limiting down travel, like others have suggested.
For mine, I’ll just stick with the stockers or the HotRacing shocks with the stiff spring in the back and soft up front that it just got. I don’t mind if it hangs a tire while crawling.
With be worth changing the front gear ratio. And trying these shocks that way.
Since this video came out, I’ve tried that and it doesn’t really help with any of the issues I talk about in the video
Put a brass weight where the front bumper was it will keep the front down and not add to the weight up top.
Thanks for the tip 😄👍🏻
Looks like they need some silicone grease so they do not just release when they want to they need to move freely
You probably won’t read this. On my scx24 I had the double barrel shocks on all 4 corner of my rig. I switched the front with just the regular hot racing shocks. It is such a better crawler.
Haha I read it lol and yes replacing the front shocks does help but overall I just prefer to keep stock length shocks on all four corners 😄👍🏻
You just need to put limiting straps as close to the diff as possible. You want to limit the diffs distance from the front but not the side to side of the wheels to fenders.
Where did you get that sick lift
Is there a way you can run/make body straps to keep the body at the right height
That mini lift is bad ass
That's cool!! Where did you get those lifts!!
I run 43mm injora oil filled and get close to 90 degrees
Love the lift very cool
Why are those shocks being run straight up and down? why not have them angled toward the middle?
This is why ur big 1/1 crawlers have a suck down winch in the front when climbing steep u can suck tht front axle back up to fully compressed & climb on up
Take the springs out and flip them I bet you will love them after
what about these in the rear and the long travel in the back, which are like 7mm shorter?
What about weighting the body itself down, I know you have weights on the suspension but try the body
I’m not running any springs, full drupe setup.
Have you tried using the stock springs yet? I noticed a huge difference when I switched.
I'm not an expert but I was watching a video before I saw this one.....someone relocate the stock shocks from shock mounts to mount it on the frame or chassis toward inside the body......wondering if it perform better by relocating shocks with your kinetic.
I haven’t tried but it’s very possible I might 😄👍🏻
Shock oil and harder springs ;) especially in the back
What about using the front shox with lighter or no springs.....or limiting straps at the front?
Yeah I’ve tried a couple different things with these shocks and I’ve just never been happy with their performance, but that’s just my opinion, I know a ton of people who absolutely love double barrel shocks 🤙🏻
Would stretching the spring and cutting it shorter help at all? I know on a real car it’d be a horrible idea, but with such a small scale, would such a change harm it or help? I’d imagine the stretch and less spring material would lessen the effect of the spring wanting to fully max out the shock. Or try finding replacement springs with a lower/softer rate?
never do that with a spring u just don't it won't work right
@@wickedweiner that's not true the Mexican lowrider what do you think they got that term they take the coil springs and cut a couple of them off on each side.
I tried the Kinetics on all my SCX24’s and didn’t care for them. No matter what I tried the 2 tubes would bind when the collapsed. Even tried them upside down & polished the brass still didn’t help.
Is that gravedigger body for a scx24? If so where can I find one
link to the wheels and tires please.
that's why we put weight to the front when we hill climbing. talking about real Cars but the physics are almost the same I guess
Good video, just a thought.....would having overdrive gears on front help with climbing so the worm drives are more relaxed while going up as not to lock the suspension in a raised position?
Absolutely that would help a ton, I don’t have any over drive gears but I’ve seen people who do for the scx24 and I think I should get some and revisit these shocks 😄👍🏻
Great info! Thanx!