Is there a part 2? Was interested in 6:02 and how you replaced the brake rod's plastic/nylon bushing. Mine does not have them and I am not sure what it is supposed to do, and if it is necessary
I had the job, a week ago or so, of removing the rear wheels from a 185 that had been outside quite a bit (sitting) before I got it. I tried everything you did above and then some. In the end, in disgust, I had to cut the wheels off with Oxy-acetylene. You can bet the replacements received never-sieze, copious grease, (and a little prayer that this would be the last time for something so unpleasant.)
I didn't know where you were going with that and I never got to see what I needed. I am restoring a 430. I literally thought I was in the home stretch. It is sitting on jack stands waiting for the wheels to come back from power coat. I've had the whole machine apart short of taking the engine and trans axle out. Since it's been sitting there I noticed two puddles. One is from a fuel leak that I thought I fixed tightening the new fuel lines when I put them on. Now it drips and lands on the muffler. I can not see where it is coming from! The other puddle and currently working on is a rear axle seal. I pulled the hub off (which slid off by hand, both sides) and the brakes were coated in oil. I just adjusted the brakes and checked everything back there and dry as a bone. I pulled the rubber off the bearing assuming I could take out the bearing from the outside if needed and I don't think I can. Don't see and snap rings, nothing. Do I have to take the axle shaft off to get to that wheel bearing? If I do I have an extremely clean 430 with pictures for sale!
Due to winter and shop space I have yet to get back to the 322. It is still sitting in the corner..... Fuel lines can be troublesome. It is one of the injectors leaking? Sadly, yes to replace the seal you have to take the axle off. Here is series I have been working on for the differentials. It will show the rear seal etc. th-cam.com/video/8KxOVAFzDbs/w-d-xo.html
@@mmrbeef Just to be clear because i may have worded my question improperly. Thank for you patience up front! I am talking about the "outer bearing". It is the bearing on the right side of your kitty litter box lol Nothing to do on the spline side that goes into the 3rd member (for lack of the right word) Shouldn't we be eating ham somewhere?
Your videos are great. I have a 318 made in 1989 with the Onan P2-18G. I have blow by getting lots of oil in the air filter. I have just replaced all fuel lines, fuel pump, fuel filter, cleaned carbuerator, changed oil, added Restore to oil, and added gas treatment. The problem of revving up and down or cycling persists. Also lack of power. I just removed the VALVE COVERS. All drawings of the P2-18G show a BREATHER ON ONE OF THE VALVE COVERS. My 318 does not have a breather on valve cover. Should I try replacing the valve cover with one with a breather? I would greatly appreciate any advice.
They normally leak from the check valves or the input shaft seal (front or back). Sometimes they will leak from the suction tube but I've found that to be rare. I show an input seal leak in a video I did several years ago. th-cam.com/video/c7qkTfDwkp0/w-d-xo.html
I'm not a fan of welding or modifying a frame, but those reinforcements welded to the back of the frame seem like a really good idea. I've seen a handful of tractors with broken frames where the axle housings attach.
I havnt looked at my 316 brakes, but I assume they are similar to a car drum brakes. On a car, you are supposed to back off the brake adjuster before attempting to remove the drum. Doesn’t help the siezed to hub issue, but removes the drum to pad friction, and possible hang up on any lip that has formed.
That's a great point and something I should have mentioned. One this axle there was no backing the brakes off. The previous owner allowed so much crap to build up in the drum that the brakes were actually dragging. That was the reason that extra spring was there. I'll show al that in another video.
You keep talking about needing another table (or a cleaned-off table) but what you really need is one of these that Mustie1 has in his shop. th-cam.com/video/iLICLtzJKJs/w-d-xo.html With a 318 on it th-cam.com/video/0ahpMeTmAgY/w-d-xo.html As you get older, it WILL make a difference. You also need a mechanic stool. Your cat litter containers are great but don't roll around very easy HAHA.
Is there a part 2? Was interested in 6:02 and how you replaced the brake rod's plastic/nylon bushing. Mine does not have them and I am not sure what it is supposed to do, and if it is necessary
I had the job, a week ago or so, of removing the rear wheels from a 185 that had been outside quite a bit (sitting) before I got it. I tried everything you did above and then some. In the end, in disgust, I had to cut the wheels off with Oxy-acetylene. You can bet the replacements received never-sieze, copious grease, (and a little prayer that this would be the last time for something so unpleasant.)
I didn't know where you were going with that and I never got to see what I needed. I am restoring a 430. I literally thought I was in the home stretch. It is sitting on jack stands waiting for the wheels to come back from power coat. I've had the whole machine apart short of taking the engine and trans axle out. Since it's been sitting there I noticed two puddles. One is from a fuel leak that I thought I fixed tightening the new fuel lines when I put them on. Now it drips and lands on the muffler. I can not see where it is coming from! The other puddle and currently working on is a rear axle seal. I pulled the hub off (which slid off by hand, both sides) and the brakes were coated in oil. I just adjusted the brakes and checked everything back there and dry as a bone. I pulled the rubber off the bearing assuming I could take out the bearing from the outside if needed and I don't think I can. Don't see and snap rings, nothing. Do I have to take the axle shaft off to get to that wheel bearing? If I do I have an extremely clean 430 with pictures for sale!
Due to winter and shop space I have yet to get back to the 322. It is still sitting in the corner.....
Fuel lines can be troublesome. It is one of the injectors leaking?
Sadly, yes to replace the seal you have to take the axle off. Here is series I have been working on for the differentials. It will show the rear seal etc. th-cam.com/video/8KxOVAFzDbs/w-d-xo.html
@@mmrbeef Just to be clear because i may have worded my question improperly. Thank for you patience up front! I am talking about the "outer bearing". It is the bearing on the right side of your kitty litter box lol Nothing to do on the spline side that goes into the 3rd member (for lack of the right word) Shouldn't we be eating ham somewhere?
Sorry for two messages, I couldn't tell if the first one went.
Your videos are great. I have a 318 made in 1989 with the Onan P2-18G. I have blow by getting lots of oil in the air filter. I have just replaced all fuel lines, fuel pump, fuel filter, cleaned carbuerator, changed oil, added Restore to oil, and added gas treatment. The problem of revving up and down or cycling persists. Also lack of power. I just removed the VALVE COVERS. All drawings of the P2-18G show a BREATHER ON ONE OF THE VALVE COVERS. My 318 does not have a breather on valve cover. Should I try replacing the valve cover with one with a breather? I would greatly appreciate any advice.
Is there foam between the gas tank and the frame? Because mine had that, and rubber bushings between the fender pan and the frame, on all 4 bolts.
My 318 has a very bad leak in the transmission I was wondering if you could tell me where they normally leak from thanks
They normally leak from the check valves or the input shaft seal (front or back). Sometimes they will leak from the suction tube but I've found that to be rare. I show an input seal leak in a video I did several years ago. th-cam.com/video/c7qkTfDwkp0/w-d-xo.html
I'm not a fan of welding or modifying a frame, but those reinforcements welded to the back of the frame seem like a really good idea. I've seen a handful of tractors with broken frames where the axle housings attach.
those welds look really good, almost machine precision i wonder if other 322's has them.
Just finished up restoring my Jd 322. It looks and runs excellent
I havnt looked at my 316 brakes, but I assume they are similar to a car drum brakes. On a car, you are supposed to back off the brake adjuster before attempting to remove the drum. Doesn’t help the siezed to hub issue, but removes the drum to pad friction, and possible hang up on any lip that has formed.
That's a great point and something I should have mentioned. One this axle there was no backing the brakes off. The previous owner allowed so much crap to build up in the drum that the brakes were actually dragging. That was the reason that extra spring was there. I'll show al that in another video.
Another good video! Thanks mmrbeef! Is that the same type of hub on the earlier 300's? closed frame.
Hubs on the closed frame tractors were a bit smaller... and I am blanking on how the brake system worked....
Thanks for these videos
You keep talking about needing another table (or a cleaned-off table) but what you really need is one of these that Mustie1 has in his shop.
th-cam.com/video/iLICLtzJKJs/w-d-xo.html
With a 318 on it
th-cam.com/video/0ahpMeTmAgY/w-d-xo.html
As you get older, it WILL make a difference.
You also need a mechanic stool. Your cat litter containers are great but don't roll around very easy HAHA.