Can't possibly see that vcc pin handling 43 amps, 10 amps has got to be pushing it. :-) I just ordered the Arduino motor shield that you used in your other video. A bit pricey but I want to get it working before going cheap. I have a spare UNO for the Base. I pulled out my N scale remmenets the other day, after 25 years all I have left is a Kato EMD E8/9 Loco and a Tech II 1500 controller. I found a DCC upgrade kit for the Kato so I need a DCC controller, being an Arduino fan I'm going to try DCC++ and JMRI. Subscribed!!!
I fully agree on the overstated 43 amp capability - many such parts are overrated for advertising purposes - the good news is that we don't need anything like that much power for our applications and the unit works well at lower current levels. dave
Kedves Dave! Mivel nagyon jó és szakszerű videókat készítesz, szeretnék szaktanácsot kapni a következő problémám megoldásához. Vásároltam egy BTS7960 alapú motorvezérlőt, pontosan ugyan olyat, mint amit Te tesztelsz a videódban. Csak van egy megmagyarázhatatlan problémám ezzel kapcsolatban. Úgy gondoltam, hogy a két irány engedélyező lába pont megfelelne egy végállás kapcsolóval a továbbforgás megakadályozására, de sajnos nem így van. Mindkét irányt engedélyezni kell ahhoz, hogy egyáltalán működjön a motor. De a leírásában pont ez nem szerepel, vagy én nem találom, hiszen akkor miért van kivezetve és feliratozva a két tüske, ha csak egyszerre működik? Szeretném megtudni, hogy csak az én áramköröm hibás esetleg, vagy ez gyártási hiba, amit nem közölnek. Ebben kérném a segítségedet, amennyiben szánsz időt a válaszra, azt megköszönném! (A neved után ítélve van magyar vonatkozásod, ezért nem kínlódtam az angollal, amit nem is nagyon tudok olyan szinten, hogy ilyen kérdést feltegyek :) ) Üdvözlettel F. Sándor
Sándor - I would guess that you need to deal with several connections to get the motor to stop with limit switches - can you send me a link to the motor controller? I may be able to see what you need to do. Also, I had to use Google Translate as I don't read Hungarian! dave
@@DaveBodnar Dear Dave! Thanks for the quick response. Well, the situation is that it's not the connection of the end position switch that causes the problem, but I'm just surprised that when the enabling legs of the two directions are led out separately on the module, as well as the PWM legs and the current monitoring (?), more precisely, the overcurrent indicator outputs , then why can't I disable, say, the forward rotation direction (this would happen with the appropriate end position switch), but the reverse would allow the motor to rotate. Instead, rotation in both directions must be allowed at the same time, otherwise it won't squeak. I thought that you had already tested this module according to your video, but is this error only happening to me, or did they forget to mention that this is a malfunction. I am attaching the link I received, but it only contains the H-hid integrated circuit itself, there is no mention of the module itself. If you know the answer, please share it with me. Sincerely, Sándor www.hestore.hu/prod_getfile.php?id=9704
@@patkolttojas Sorry, Sándor, but the document you sent doesn't help and I really can't determine what may be happening - good luck in your search! dave
I have tried this setup and I have a question on the current sensing circuit. It states to connect the blue wire to A0, but A0 is already being used by the Arduino motor drive shield. How is the current monitored? Do I have to cut the A0 trace on the motor shield too? Do you know what is the voltage to current ratio on the BTS7960B pins 5&6? Thanks
The schematic here www.trainelectronics.com/DCC_Arduino/DCC_Booster/index.htm shows that A0 only goes to pins 5 and 6 on the H-Bridge - I don't recall the exact ratio (I haven't worked with this code is some years) - the routine that converts it is pasted in below - that should help dave void showPercentage() { percentage = (CurrentPinReading * 0.0105) / PotReading; // was 0.014 percentage = percentage * 100; if (millis() - now >= 500) // only update LCD every 1/2 second to limit flicker { lcd.setCursor(9, 1); lcd.print(percentage,1); lcd.print("% "); now = millis(); } if (percentage > 100) turnPowerOff(); }
@@DaveBodnar Hi Dave, Thanks for the reply! On this schematic I have to have another Arduino (Mini) to read the A0 and set a voltage on A1, I was wondering if I could just feed IS 5-6 to an op amp and then connect to A0 on Arduino drive motor and disconnect (cutting trace) the A0 signal sensing on the motor A all together. This way the sensing current would be going to A0 and read by the Arduino DCC station. Thanks for any help.
I want to use this H-bridge to run a bilge pump dc motor (24V8A). Do you think it will handle ok? (also any idea about reverse voltage polarity protection when stopping or turning on the motor?!?) thank a lot.. great work !!!
The specs say that it should work but I think you may be pushing its limits - - Rather than using an h-bridge I think you would be better off with a non-reversible power controller. I found this one on Amazon - it might work for you www.amazon.com/DROK-Controller-Industrial-Electric-Regulator/dp/B074FR4BBJ/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=arduino+power+controller+mosfet&qid=1581849252&sr=8-8 dave
Dave thank you for this excellent video! Do you know any DIY Arduino based DCC locomotive decoder for large scale trains (G/O)? All I'm finding in the Internet are low Amp HO locomotive decoders. I'm looking for a reference higher Amp driver project for my developments. I have over 20 locos to convert to DCC and appreciate if you can provide any recommendations or guidance. BR Chris
Chris - I have not been able to find an inexpensive decoder that is good for larger G-scale locomotives - I have used HO decoders on smaller engines. dave
Hi Dave, just to warn you this BTS7960 board (at least the version i got) has almost no electrical insulation between the heat sink and de BTS7960B chips. Its only the thin black anodised layer on the cooling block that keeps this unit from short ciruit. very dangerous if used unmodded by unknwoning buyers.
That is good information - thanks - I have found that a good many of the various boards & circuits that I have gotten from China have varying levels of consistency and safety. dave
Dave, I am not very electronic savvy. I want to add the 43 amp H-Bridge to DCC++ so I can run G-Scale. I am having trouble understanding the circuit you built to connect the H-Bridge to the arduino motor shield & Uno boards. Does the transistor Emitter go to ground? If so, what part of the circuit did you ground it too? Sorry I can not fully understand your schematics. It is my fault due to lack of electronic knowledge. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Richard - All ground connections go together and connect to the negative terminal of the power supply - yes, the emitter of the transistor does go to ground - the triangle symbol indicates ground. You will see 7 or 8 of these symbols - all are connected together Good luck & enjoy! dave
@@DaveBodnar Lots of wires and stuff going everywhere and resisters. Not an electrical kind of guy normally. Wiring diagrams mean nothing to me. Architect by trade. If I had a parts list and simple video I could probably pull it off. I managed to build my DCC++ base stations by watching the DCC++ videos.
@@davidbowman5407 If you have done that you should be able to build the booster - have a look at my web page (see trainelectronics.com/DCC_Arduino/DCC++/ ) dave
@@DaveBodnar Sorry my mistake in parallel! Thanks for correcting and suggestions! For 60 Ampere and 24V can you recommend me any other H-Bridge module?
@@mathildaevan6992 I don't know of anything with that capability, at least that's available for hobbyists. Even this one can't do its rated current. More like 8 or 10 amps. D6
@@DaveBodnar Thanks alot for your kind response! Although I have tested this module at 33A Peak and then it gets off due to built-in over Temprature protection.
Right you are, Lord RW - as I noted in the web page notes it is unlikely that it can make 43 amps but is well suited for use at 5 or so amps, plenty for most DCC layouts. dave
I honestly wouldn't trust buying that stuff from ebay, I've had a few things that were poorly advertised. There's always a catch - in my case, it was a boost converter. It was rated for up to 5A, but at more than about 500mA, it began to get extremely hot. A friend of mine has gotten a fake SSR (Solid State Relay) as well, which simply died (went open circuit) at well under maximum capacity. And don't let me forget the "hoverboard" charger he got ... _which came from the manufacturer with the output polarity reversed!_ Also .. yikes! It's one of those KORAD power supplies! Be very careful, they can output a spike of voltage at power-on, which can kill sensitive circuits like 3.3 and 5V digital stuff.
+Benjamin “Ozias” Esposti Benjamin - I have had issues with eBay purchases, too - that is why I review purchases, such as the one here, so that others are likely to have a good chance of duplicating what I have done. I went through a number of H-Bridges and circuits before I came upon this setup and it works rather well! dave
Can't possibly see that vcc pin handling 43 amps, 10 amps has got to be pushing it. :-)
I just ordered the Arduino motor shield that you used in your other video. A bit pricey but I want to get it working before going cheap. I have a spare UNO for the Base.
I pulled out my N scale remmenets the other day, after 25 years all I have left is a Kato EMD E8/9 Loco and a Tech II 1500 controller. I found a DCC upgrade kit for the Kato so I need a DCC controller, being an Arduino fan I'm going to try DCC++ and JMRI.
Subscribed!!!
I fully agree on the overstated 43 amp capability - many such parts are overrated for advertising purposes - the good news is that we don't need anything like that much power for our applications and the unit works well at lower current levels.
dave
Dave, thanks for the video. Would you tell more about those 2 G scale decoders. Do you have part #s for them? Thx. Marty
I suppose if I'm going to add more HO scale DCC with sound locos to my layout, I could use this to provide more amperage.
Thanks for the video, Dave. That´s pretty interesting. Cannot wait to get started.
Thanks a lot. Excellent guidance.
is it possible to reverse one of the motors without changing wires ?
Reversing is done by the DCC connection not by reversing wires
Will this work for 380kg servos ?
Kedves Dave! Mivel nagyon jó és szakszerű videókat készítesz, szeretnék szaktanácsot kapni a következő problémám megoldásához. Vásároltam egy BTS7960 alapú motorvezérlőt, pontosan ugyan olyat, mint amit Te tesztelsz a videódban. Csak van egy megmagyarázhatatlan problémám ezzel kapcsolatban. Úgy gondoltam, hogy a két irány engedélyező lába pont megfelelne egy végállás kapcsolóval a továbbforgás megakadályozására, de sajnos nem így van. Mindkét irányt engedélyezni kell ahhoz, hogy egyáltalán működjön a motor. De a leírásában pont ez nem szerepel, vagy én nem találom, hiszen akkor miért van kivezetve és feliratozva a két tüske, ha csak egyszerre működik? Szeretném megtudni, hogy csak az én áramköröm hibás esetleg, vagy ez gyártási hiba, amit nem közölnek. Ebben kérném a segítségedet, amennyiben szánsz időt a válaszra, azt megköszönném! (A neved után ítélve van magyar vonatkozásod, ezért nem kínlódtam az angollal, amit nem is nagyon tudok olyan szinten, hogy ilyen kérdést feltegyek :) ) Üdvözlettel F. Sándor
Sándor - I would guess that you need to deal with several connections to get the motor to stop with limit switches - can you send me a link to the motor controller? I may be able to see what you need to do.
Also, I had to use Google Translate as I don't read Hungarian!
dave
@@DaveBodnar Dear Dave!
Thanks for the quick response. Well, the situation is that it's not the connection of the end position switch that causes the problem, but I'm just surprised that when the enabling legs of the two directions are led out separately on the module, as well as the PWM legs and the current monitoring (?), more precisely, the overcurrent indicator outputs , then why can't I disable, say, the forward rotation direction (this would happen with the appropriate end position switch), but the reverse would allow the motor to rotate. Instead, rotation in both directions must be allowed at the same time, otherwise it won't squeak. I thought that you had already tested this module according to your video, but is this error only happening to me, or did they forget to mention that this is a malfunction. I am attaching the link I received, but it only contains the H-hid integrated circuit itself, there is no mention of the module itself. If you know the answer, please share it with me. Sincerely, Sándor
www.hestore.hu/prod_getfile.php?id=9704
@@patkolttojas Sorry, Sándor, but the document you sent doesn't help and I really can't determine what may be happening - good luck in your search!
dave
I have tried this setup and I have a question on the current sensing circuit. It states to connect the blue wire to A0, but A0 is already being used by the Arduino motor drive shield. How is the current monitored? Do I have to cut the A0 trace on the motor shield too? Do you know what is the voltage to current ratio on the BTS7960B pins 5&6? Thanks
The schematic here
www.trainelectronics.com/DCC_Arduino/DCC_Booster/index.htm
shows that A0 only goes to pins 5 and 6 on the H-Bridge -
I don't recall the exact ratio (I haven't worked with this code is some years) - the routine that converts it is pasted in below - that should help
dave
void showPercentage()
{
percentage = (CurrentPinReading * 0.0105) / PotReading; // was 0.014
percentage = percentage * 100;
if (millis() - now >= 500) // only update LCD every 1/2 second to limit flicker
{
lcd.setCursor(9, 1);
lcd.print(percentage,1);
lcd.print("% ");
now = millis();
}
if (percentage > 100) turnPowerOff();
}
@@DaveBodnar Hi Dave, Thanks for the reply! On this schematic I have to have another Arduino (Mini) to read the A0 and set a voltage on A1, I was wondering if I could just feed IS 5-6 to an op amp and then connect to A0 on Arduino drive motor and disconnect (cutting trace) the A0 signal sensing on the motor A all together. This way the sensing current would be going to A0 and read by the Arduino DCC station. Thanks for any help.
@@Lusitano95132 Without testing I can't be sure but it looks like it should work - give it a try
dave
Hi. Is it possible to control 2 DC motors and rotate them in opposite directions simultaneously using this motor driver?
By programming 🙄
I want to use this H-bridge to run a bilge pump dc motor (24V8A). Do you think it will handle ok? (also any idea about reverse voltage polarity protection when stopping or turning on the motor?!?) thank a lot.. great work !!!
The specs say that it should work but I think you may be pushing its limits - - Rather than using an h-bridge I think you would be better off with a non-reversible power controller. I found this one on Amazon - it might work for you
www.amazon.com/DROK-Controller-Industrial-Electric-Regulator/dp/B074FR4BBJ/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=arduino+power+controller+mosfet&qid=1581849252&sr=8-8
dave
Hi. I can you explain what the 2222 transistor is for on the pwm outputs?
The 2N2222 shown in the schematic provides an inverted signal that is needed by one of the input pins on the H-Bridge.
dave
Dave thank you for this excellent video! Do you know any DIY Arduino based DCC locomotive decoder for large scale trains (G/O)? All I'm finding in the Internet are low Amp HO locomotive decoders. I'm looking for a reference higher Amp driver project for my developments. I have over 20 locos to convert to DCC and appreciate if you can provide any recommendations or guidance. BR Chris
Chris - I have not been able to find an inexpensive decoder that is good for larger G-scale locomotives - I have used HO decoders on smaller engines.
dave
Hi Dave, just to warn you this BTS7960 board (at least the version i got) has almost no electrical insulation between the heat sink and de BTS7960B chips. Its only the thin black anodised layer on the cooling block that keeps this unit from short ciruit. very dangerous if used unmodded by unknwoning buyers.
That is good information - thanks - I have found that a good many of the various boards & circuits that I have gotten from China have varying levels of consistency and safety.
dave
Dave, I am not very electronic savvy. I want to add the 43 amp H-Bridge to DCC++ so I can run G-Scale. I am having trouble understanding the circuit you built to connect the H-Bridge to the arduino motor shield & Uno boards. Does the transistor Emitter go to ground? If so, what part of the circuit did you ground it too? Sorry I can not fully understand your schematics. It is my fault due to lack of electronic knowledge. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Richard - All ground connections go together and connect to the negative terminal of the power supply - yes, the emitter of the transistor does go to ground - the triangle symbol indicates ground.
You will see 7 or 8 of these symbols - all are connected together
Good luck & enjoy!
dave
Thanks Dave for all your help and sharing your project. I hope to do the same one day. Thanks again, Richard.
What would you charge to build a high amp H-Bridge booster for a DCC++ base station?
Sorry, David, but I don't build/sell my projects- my goal is to present information so that viewers can build their own
dave
@@DaveBodnar Lots of wires and stuff going everywhere and resisters. Not an electrical kind of guy normally. Wiring diagrams mean nothing to me. Architect by trade.
If I had a parts list and simple video I could probably pull it off.
I managed to build my DCC++ base stations by watching the DCC++ videos.
@@davidbowman5407 If you have done that you should be able to build the booster - have a look at my web page (see trainelectronics.com/DCC_Arduino/DCC++/ )
dave
Can you do a video on hooking up the BTS7960 H-Bridge to 2 wheelchair motors or please send me the diagram? I need to connect to Uno.
one IBT run one motor or 3 ?
Amir - the IBT-2 can run several locomotives at the same time
@@DaveBodnar you mean if you connect all of them to the same 2 pin on the board right ?
@@EnergySeeker You connect the track to the output of the H-Bridge and that supplies power to the locomotives.
dave
@@DaveBodnar thanks dave
Can we use it in series to generate 60+ Amps?
To increase amperage you would put them in parallel, not series - either way it is not a good idea!
dave
@@DaveBodnar Sorry my mistake in parallel! Thanks for correcting and suggestions! For 60 Ampere and 24V can you recommend me any other H-Bridge module?
@@mathildaevan6992 I don't know of anything with that capability, at least that's available for hobbyists. Even this one can't do its rated current. More like 8 or 10 amps.
D6
@@DaveBodnar Thanks alot for your kind response! Although I have tested this module at 33A Peak and then it gets off due to built-in over Temprature protection.
@@mathildaevan6992 a fan might help but it still is not 43!
the chips are 43 amps, the setup of the heat sink is terrible and will burn at less than 20amps continues load.
Right you are, Lord RW - as I noted in the web page notes it is unlikely that it can make 43 amps but is well suited for use at 5 or so amps, plenty for most DCC layouts.
dave
can i get 10 ampere continuous with 24V ?
I doubt it - might be possible with a fan on the heat sink but that is pushing it
dave
I honestly wouldn't trust buying that stuff from ebay, I've had a few things that were poorly advertised. There's always a catch - in my case, it was a boost converter. It was rated for up to 5A, but at more than about 500mA, it began to get extremely hot. A friend of mine has gotten a fake SSR (Solid State Relay) as well, which simply died (went open circuit) at well under maximum capacity.
And don't let me forget the "hoverboard" charger he got ... _which came from the manufacturer with the output polarity reversed!_
Also .. yikes! It's one of those KORAD power supplies! Be very careful, they can output a spike of voltage at power-on, which can kill sensitive circuits like 3.3 and 5V digital stuff.
+Benjamin “Ozias” Esposti
Benjamin - I have had issues with eBay purchases, too - that is why I review purchases, such as the one here, so that others are likely to have a good chance of duplicating what I have done.
I went through a number of H-Bridges and circuits before I came upon this setup and it works rather well!
dave
I completely disagree.... ebay has been really good for me with over 1000 transactions.
Ya just gotta know what to buy and what not to
excuse me sir, do you have a reference on how to use the IS pin? i want to use current sense BTN
This link may help
forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=509138.0
dave