This video by Edelrid (and its accompanying article) represents a groundbreaking effort in identifying specific risks associated with lead rope soloing (LRS). I believe this is the first time anyone has dedicated so much effort to dissecting these risks in such detail. The closest comparable approach for top-rope soloing (TRS) is Petzl's comprehensive 10-part self-belaying series of webpages (still accessible, published in 2016). This video marks a milestone in the evolution of LRS and will undoubtedly shape its future for the better.
If you use a rope-backfeed prevention at the first piece of protection, this also solves the problem of improperly loading the carabiner at the anchor. It can be fixed in a favorable position and you can climb with piece of mind about your anchor in the event of a fall. The backfeed prevention carabiner inserts from Avant Climbing Technology are well worth the investment for anyone regularly rope solo climbing! A game changing innovation for the discipline.
The use of a device designed for LRS like the Silent Partner or El Mudo eliminates some of the risks. Eliminating the back feed is easy, using a shock absorber is a good thing and being alone is better than being in bad company ! The worst experiences I had out in the mountains were because of people who overestimated themselves, which led to unwanted bivouacs and accidents. Anyway you do well to assess the risks and you are right in your explanations. I stopped solo climbing when my youngest daughter was born and I was 50, but I started again a couple of years ago, now that I got El Mudo and I really enjoy it at 75 !
Highly impressed by this video. I've put a considerable amount of time in LRS and disagree with a lot of videos and methods being taught online. In this video however, there is nothing to complain about. Your findings 100% match mine after slowly working towards a system together with a much better rock climber buddy that is also a highly certified rope access worker. Few things I would like to add tho: One cant mention enough that all discussed risks are even higher during exploration and training phases. Also: climbing unknown routes and areas also increases likelihood of mistakes and falls in general, of course. I've done LRS a lot this season, but only 2 times actually alone and always at my home crag. Highly adviced to not explore alone and only perform LRS on sight when the grade is five dot fun or the system is reaaaly dialed in! Climbing alone together is incredible fun in general. So even in a party, I prefer to climb solo these days. I woud also like to know your opinion on using a long tailed barrel knot with minimum of 3 wraps as first anchor point. Due to its sliding nature, the shock absoroption is, to our tests, significantly better and makes even a factor 2 fall much smoother. Only critique I would have for this video is that that most presented anchor risk counter methods are at best impracticle, if not impossible on a lot of routes, as you can't do them one handedly. It's therefore realistic and reasonable to assume people will use other methods, which I'd love to have been evaluated here as well. For example: we use a preassambled barrelknot at point 1 and a short aramid prusik at point 2. Pulling the first anchor upwards is possible one handed and 3 wraps with aramid are more than strong enough in case point 1 fails. Thank you very, very much for this video! We truly appreciate the investment and dedication to educate and keep the community safe!
This risk assesment by Edelrid is referred to 7 apt observations and it is very well aimed. Perhaps an 8th point should be added. It is the possible rope abrasion because of the fact that the rope is fixed to the ground anchor and the same spots are always touching the same edges in contrast to team climbing. So IMO the need of intermediate belays (rebelays) should be pointed in order to avoid dangerous point of contact. Otherwise, it is very probable to get a core shot or even a severe damage of the rope due to an upcoming fall in a difficult terrain. (Especially if someone is projecting and falls more than once)
I think this is a case of judging liability vs profit. It is indeed a big market niche, but at the same time it would be a huge product development project with a huge risk in liability in case of any device failure or issues. I think LRS gets tons more exposure, but is still not the main intrest for most climbers. Seeing how climbers, who climb without a partner are probably more inclined in going for bouldering. And I do know this is comparing apples to not just oranges, but to tea cups, but I hope you get my point.
How would such a device look? I can only imagine something like the Wild Country Revo. As far as I’m aware the Silent Partner uses a similar principle (centrifugal clutch).
The request for a device clearly proves that the video was not understood, as all the limitations by the current devices in use can be very well mitigated, but other limitations/risks cannot as well. If the device is your major concern, you better don't rope solo.
praise be on Edelrid for making a video about this touchy topic, as far as i know the only big brand to do so (petzl published soemthing about toprope since it relates to vertical rope work i guess)
It would be awesome to have an indoor gym like in this video that allowed people to practice this vs learning outside as pretty much all of us do currently.
I would like to have a better comparison between force generated by human belayer and solo belayer at similar factor falls. I use some clothespin to stop the back feed of the rope. In my experience it’s better to use Kevlar sling to do a full soft anchor. Dyneema is not the best choice in that case with multiple strands in a confined space as testing shows a risk of fusion due to its relatively low melting point. Thanks for the professional approach to this argument.
Great content. Some feedback about risk#5, Function of belay device: It is my opinion that a slightly longer cache loop with a modified Grigri in the upright position (added attachment point attached to a chest harnas) does grab the rope well within < 0,5m during a fall. Person and cash loop are indeed both falling and therefore weightless as you stated, but the cache loop feeding into the Grigri will require a force - the rope is pulled up into the device thus lifting half the weight of the cache loop (the section till the halfway point of the loop) this weight - a force! - activates the cam in the Grigri.
Excellent video. 👍 Google Pixel's Safety check (or alternatives) can be used to speed up the potential rescue in the areas where is GSM available (ad. 1. being alone). This feature will report last known GPS coordinates to predefined contacts in case of not reporting in time.
Vielen herzlichen Dank für das tolle Video!!! Sehr ausführlich. Ich mache LRS zum Trainieren und gehe dafür nicht tief in die Bergwelt hinein. Ich treffe die meisten bis fast alle diese Sicherheits- Massnahmen. Ich verwende zum Start einen Clipstick damit ich die 1.-2. Expresse bereits setzen kann. Ich nehme den 55-240cm Stick danach mit um eventuelle Schlüsselstellen oder Überhänge vor zu klippen. Wenn ich kann nehme ich jemanden mit der zuschaut und der im Notfall die Rettung alarmieren könnte. Für mich gilt zu allem „Stürzen verboten“ Vielen Dank! Grüsse aus der Schweiz
An engineer clearly wrote this script 😂. Good video. I top rope solo a lot, but I’ve only lead rope soloed once. For the climbing in my area, the reward is not worth the risk for me.
Very well done, thanks. What about attaching a dissipator at the anchor point (like the Kisa or one for via ferratas) and/or a heavy back pack like back in the old days, just to decrease the forces and have a gentle fall? I use this method and ( only for easy climbs for the moment) works well
Surprised to not see backup knots mentioned here or any counter measures for possible device failure. My guess would be due to legal implications? Listing counter measures might come of as encouragement to use i.e. pinch outside the norm. Or are there other reasons? Would love to know. thanks!
"Specifically near the anchor, where the impulse on the braking rope on the device is low..." (13:07) I don't undestand why that is. I understand the "Impulse" as the acceleration the rope is putting on the device when being pulled tight. Must not the Impulse in factor two falls be one of the highest achievable? Or what does "near the anchor" mean here? Independently of the above: Thanks for bringing out this video about LRS as (as far as I know) the first and so far the only climbing gear manufacturer!
Anchor means top of the climb. Because there is more rope in the system, the elasticity of the rope means there is less force (and impulse) on the device, so it's less likely to lock. Caming devices lock better the higher and quicker the force applied to them, it's the reason you can slowly feed out slack while a sudden yank will lock them. Impulse in physics technically means a force applied over time, but in this case the distinction doesn't mean too much, think of it as the force.
Salve , pure io pratico questo tipo di arrampicata ma alla base uso un sistema diverso facendo un nodo mascard con un cordino in kevlar al secondo rinvio in modo che mi tenga tirato e sempre in posizione il moschettone che metto all’inizio della via . Questo mi è utile anche in caso di caduta perché non vado a sollecitare troppo il primo ancoraggio
"Direct visual monitoring contradicts the intension of solo climbing" We usually use LRS and TRS in winter aid climbing trainings. It is too uncomfortable and unpleasant to belay when it's -10 degrees Celsius and lower, but there may be many people on the crag. Just everyone climbing and nobody belaying all day.
If edelrid produced an LRS harness with rated attachments for cache loops or a device to serve as a clip on backup/slack management solution to eliminate the need for cache loops, I would buy them both and I promise not to sue if I die.
"The gate *locking* mechanism could be broken". In other words, the carabiner may behave as a non locking carabiner and the gate may open in a certain orientation, in worst case, the carabiner may get clipped out of the bolt
Me llama mucho la atención que no mencionan ningún aparato diseñado para escalar en solo con cuerda (LRS) como: El Mudo, Soloaid o al Silent Partner... Si bien el análisis es cierto, no incluye muchas técnicas utilizadas para este fin. Y parte de la premisa de que "escalar con un compañero es más seguro" y esto solo es cierto si los integrantes de la cordada están capacitados y tienen la atención al 100% todo el tiempo, cosa que tampoco ocurre siempre... Incluso en los videos que se muestran al principio se observa como el puntero o primero de la cuerda no ha puesto ninguna protección y como el Segundo suelta la cuerda de seguro, si el Primero se cae, habría sufrido una caída FF2 y el Segundo no tenía las manos sujetando la cuerda... Me da la impresión que que este "análisis" es un poco parcial o tendencioso. I am very struck by the fact that they do not mention any device designed for solo rope climbing (LRS) such as: The Mudo, Soloaid or the Silent Partner... While the analysis is true, it does not include many techniques used for this purpose. And it starts from the premise that "climbing with a partner is safer" and this is only true if the members of the group are trained and have 100% attention all the time, which does not always happen... Even in the videos shown at the beginning it is observed how the Leader or first of the rope has not put any protection and how the Second releases the safety rope, if the Leader falls, he would have suffered an FF2 fall and the Belayer did not have hands holding the rope... I get the impression that this "analysis" is a bit partial or biased.
Great video! But, man, you are butchering the English language with your pronunciation. "Climbing" has a silent B. "occur" has nothing to do with the word 'cure' "Tear value" has nothing to do with water from your eyes. Sorry, but all these mistakes really put me off. There are so easy to fix.
Yeah, no thanks for putting so much effort into developing a groundbreaking risk assesment analysis of LRS, editing dozens of clips, writing a 20' script on this seminal work, and trying their best to use a non-native language instead of just captions for English / 'Murican folks. All that... for free. Absolutely everybody uploading content on YT should think, speak and sound exactly like you and me. Makes me queazy when not the case. You're right, I'd rather they'd never made such a video ! 🙄
@iamsometimes6712 I said I love the video. And therefore of course I'm grateful about it. I just wanted to point out things to improve on. And I'm sure he will. Somebody who is so meticulous like will never mispronounce the words ever again. Wonna bet?
This video by Edelrid (and its accompanying article) represents a groundbreaking effort in identifying specific risks associated with lead rope soloing (LRS). I believe this is the first time anyone has dedicated so much effort to dissecting these risks in such detail. The closest comparable approach for top-rope soloing (TRS) is Petzl's comprehensive 10-part self-belaying series of webpages (still accessible, published in 2016). This video marks a milestone in the evolution of LRS and will undoubtedly shape its future for the better.
I was about to comment what about Yann before seeing it's Yann's comment 😂
Very well made video! Excited to see if Edelrid might consider developing any products for this space..
Hopefully soon 🙏
If you use a rope-backfeed prevention at the first piece of protection, this also solves the problem of improperly loading the carabiner at the anchor. It can be fixed in a favorable position and you can climb with piece of mind about your anchor in the event of a fall.
The backfeed prevention carabiner inserts from Avant Climbing Technology are well worth the investment for anyone regularly rope solo climbing! A game changing innovation for the discipline.
The use of a device designed for LRS like the Silent Partner or El Mudo eliminates some of the risks. Eliminating the back feed is easy, using a shock absorber is a good thing and being alone is better than being in bad company !
The worst experiences I had out in the mountains were because of people who overestimated themselves, which led to unwanted bivouacs and accidents. Anyway you do well to assess the risks and you are right in your explanations. I stopped solo climbing when my youngest daughter was born and I was 50, but I started again a couple of years ago, now that I got El Mudo and I really enjoy it at 75 !
Highly impressed by this video. I've put a considerable amount of time in LRS and disagree with a lot of videos and methods being taught online. In this video however, there is nothing to complain about. Your findings 100% match mine after slowly working towards a system together with a much better rock climber buddy that is also a highly certified rope access worker.
Few things I would like to add tho: One cant mention enough that all discussed risks are even higher during exploration and training phases. Also: climbing unknown routes and areas also increases likelihood of mistakes and falls in general, of course. I've done LRS a lot this season, but only 2 times actually alone and always at my home crag. Highly adviced to not explore alone and only perform LRS on sight when the grade is five dot fun or the system is reaaaly dialed in! Climbing alone together is incredible fun in general. So even in a party, I prefer to climb solo these days.
I woud also like to know your opinion on using a long tailed barrel knot with minimum of 3 wraps as first anchor point. Due to its sliding nature, the shock absoroption is, to our tests, significantly better and makes even a factor 2 fall much smoother.
Only critique I would have for this video is that that most presented anchor risk counter methods are at best impracticle, if not impossible on a lot of routes, as you can't do them one handedly. It's therefore realistic and reasonable to assume people will use other methods, which I'd love to have been evaluated here as well. For example: we use a preassambled barrelknot at point 1 and a short aramid prusik at point 2. Pulling the first anchor upwards is possible one handed and 3 wraps with aramid are more than strong enough in case point 1 fails.
Thank you very, very much for this video! We truly appreciate the investment and dedication to educate and keep the community safe!
This risk assesment by Edelrid is referred to 7 apt observations and it is very well aimed.
Perhaps an 8th point should be added. It is the possible rope abrasion because of the fact that the rope is fixed to the ground anchor and the same spots are always touching the same edges in contrast to team climbing. So IMO the need of intermediate belays (rebelays) should be pointed in order to avoid dangerous point of contact. Otherwise, it is very probable to get a core shot or even a severe damage of the rope due to an upcoming fall in a difficult terrain. (Especially if someone is projecting and falls more than once)
Thanks for putting two of my thumbnails into your video :) Also thanks for talking about the risk of being alone and the self rescue topic!
Develop a device for LRS! There is a big hole in the modern marketplace for this!
I think this is a case of judging liability vs profit. It is indeed a big market niche, but at the same time it would be a huge product development project with a huge risk in liability in case of any device failure or issues. I think LRS gets tons more exposure, but is still not the main intrest for most climbers. Seeing how climbers, who climb without a partner are probably more inclined in going for bouldering. And I do know this is comparing apples to not just oranges, but to tea cups, but I hope you get my point.
How would such a device look? I can only imagine something like the Wild Country Revo. As far as I’m aware the Silent Partner uses a similar principle (centrifugal clutch).
The request for a device clearly proves that the video was not understood, as all the limitations by the current devices in use can be very well mitigated, but other limitations/risks cannot as well. If the device is your major concern, you better don't rope solo.
Thanks a lot for the very neutral and informative video! It adds a lot to the information published on the "hownot2" channel. ❤
finally one big player helps a climbing version with analysing - thanks a lot
Rope solo with a friend makes sense!
You can both climb at the same time, or it can be the case of 3rd person on a sport trip etc.
Danke Daniel,
perfekt gemacht.
praise be on Edelrid for making a video about this touchy topic, as far as i know the only big brand to do so (petzl published soemthing about toprope since it relates to vertical rope work i guess)
Sauber Daniel ! Grüße aus Norwegen :)
It would be awesome to have an indoor gym like in this video that allowed people to practice this vs learning outside as pretty much all of us do currently.
Great analysis, has already helped me tweak.
Excellent analysis
I would like to have a better comparison between force generated by human belayer and solo belayer at similar factor falls.
I use some clothespin to stop the back feed of the rope.
In my experience it’s better to use Kevlar sling to do a full soft anchor.
Dyneema is not the best choice in that case with multiple strands in a confined space as testing shows a risk of fusion due to its relatively low melting point.
Thanks for the professional approach to this argument.
great video thanks for sharing!
@15:42
how can I get one of these sweet Edelrid quicklink anti-crossload protectors?
Great content.
Some feedback about risk#5, Function of belay device:
It is my opinion that a slightly longer cache loop with a modified Grigri in the upright position (added attachment point attached to a chest harnas) does grab the rope well within < 0,5m during a fall. Person and cash loop are indeed both falling and therefore weightless as you stated, but the cache loop feeding into the Grigri will require a force - the rope is pulled up into the device thus lifting half the weight of the cache loop (the section till the halfway point of the loop) this weight - a force! - activates the cam in the Grigri.
Excellent video. 👍
Google Pixel's Safety check (or alternatives) can be used to speed up the potential rescue in the areas where is GSM available (ad. 1. being alone).
This feature will report last known GPS coordinates to predefined contacts in case of not reporting in time.
Vielen herzlichen Dank für das tolle Video!!!
Sehr ausführlich.
Ich mache LRS zum Trainieren und gehe dafür nicht tief in die Bergwelt hinein.
Ich treffe die meisten bis fast alle diese Sicherheits- Massnahmen.
Ich verwende zum Start einen Clipstick damit ich die 1.-2. Expresse bereits setzen kann.
Ich nehme den 55-240cm Stick danach mit um eventuelle Schlüsselstellen oder Überhänge vor zu klippen.
Wenn ich kann nehme ich jemanden mit der zuschaut und der im Notfall die Rettung alarmieren könnte.
Für mich gilt zu allem „Stürzen verboten“
Vielen Dank!
Grüsse aus der Schweiz
An engineer clearly wrote this script 😂. Good video. I top rope solo a lot, but I’ve only lead rope soloed once. For the climbing in my area, the reward is not worth the risk for me.
Excellent....
Great content !
Very well done, thanks. What about attaching a dissipator at the anchor point (like the Kisa or one for via ferratas) and/or a heavy back pack like back in the old days, just to decrease the forces and have a gentle fall? I use this method and ( only for easy climbs for the moment) works well
Well done Edelrid
great video
I use an ELASTIC weel chamber attached to the ancor to reduce impact force and it works.
Excellent video!!!!
Where are the maillon anticrossload plastic attachments available for purchase?
Salewa makes some for 8mm maillons, available on their website and other gear websites in Europe
great video! when will the g-screamers be available?
From next year!
this is the most german thing i've ever seen and I mean that as a sincere compliment
Use a steel carabinder with a laterla holds of 18KN and direct one of 40+KN
Surprised to not see backup knots mentioned here or any counter measures for possible device failure. My guess would be due to legal implications? Listing counter measures might come of as encouragement to use i.e. pinch outside the norm.
Or are there other reasons? Would love to know.
thanks!
Anyone know what route the guy is LRS in the video? The big looking multipitch with tufa? It looks amazing!
Where can I find the positioning and locking element for the Maillon Rapide? Despite having the Edelrid brand, I cannot find it on your website
Have a look at our SCREWLINK 8 MM: edelrid.com/eu-en/sport/carabiners-and-quickdraws/screwlink-8mm?variant=2441213
"Specifically near the anchor, where the impulse on the braking rope on the device is low..." (13:07)
I don't undestand why that is.
I understand the "Impulse" as the acceleration the rope is putting on the device when being pulled tight.
Must not the Impulse in factor two falls be one of the highest achievable?
Or what does "near the anchor" mean here?
Independently of the above: Thanks for bringing out this video about LRS as (as far as I know) the first and so far the only climbing gear manufacturer!
Anchor means top of the climb. Because there is more rope in the system, the elasticity of the rope means there is less force (and impulse) on the device, so it's less likely to lock. Caming devices lock better the higher and quicker the force applied to them, it's the reason you can slowly feed out slack while a sudden yank will lock them. Impulse in physics technically means a force applied over time, but in this case the distinction doesn't mean too much, think of it as the force.
Ah, ok, if he is talking about the upper anchor (as in towards the end of the pitch) it all makes sense to me.
Salve , pure io pratico questo tipo di arrampicata ma alla base uso un sistema diverso facendo un nodo mascard con un cordino in kevlar al secondo rinvio in modo che mi tenga tirato e sempre in posizione il moschettone che metto all’inizio della via . Questo mi è utile anche in caso di caduta perché non vado a sollecitare troppo il primo ancoraggio
"Direct visual monitoring contradicts the intension of solo climbing"
We usually use LRS and TRS in winter aid climbing trainings. It is too uncomfortable and unpleasant to belay when it's -10 degrees Celsius and lower, but there may be many people on the crag. Just everyone climbing and nobody belaying all day.
good jobs guys
19:48 "Direct visual monitoring contradicts the intension of solo climbing"
tell that to the gawkers at the crag
Good summary. So no Edelrid wizzardry coming to mitigate 'LRS' belay devices's problems?
Does the unmodified pinch work well in LRS? I'm looking forward to a more specific video.
Informing about the risks is the maximum they can legally do
@@squelchedotter no it does not, there are some good videos on this.
If edelrid produced an LRS harness with rated attachments for cache loops or a device to serve as a clip on backup/slack management solution to eliminate the need for cache loops, I would buy them both and I promise not to sue if I die.
Wow Stark! Extrem gut als Hersteller mal darauf einzugehen! Da wird gleich der Screamer der ja 2025? von euch auf den Markt kommt gekauft!
Thank you for the feedback! Yes, our G-SCREAMER will be available from 2025. 🙂
Isn't it possible, to put the screamer into the anchor?
Not ideal because when you abseil you load the anchor and the screamer could open during abseiling.
Dove si possono trovare i fermi bianchi presenti sui moschettoni dei rinvii? Come si chiamano?
Excellent video. Can anyone provide more information on the claim that "the gate can be broken with loads as low as body weight" (16:40)?
"The gate *locking* mechanism could be broken". In other words, the carabiner may behave as a non locking carabiner and the gate may open in a certain orientation, in worst case, the carabiner may get clipped out of the bolt
So higher impact forces because of non dynamic belaying?. Because rope lengths for shock absorption are identical.
Just make a friend
It sucks being alone. But LRS is the only reason i still climb...and might be one day be my last
Me llama mucho la atención que no mencionan ningún aparato diseñado para escalar en solo con cuerda (LRS) como: El Mudo, Soloaid o al Silent Partner...
Si bien el análisis es cierto, no incluye muchas técnicas utilizadas para este fin.
Y parte de la premisa de que "escalar con un compañero es más seguro" y esto solo es cierto si los integrantes de la cordada están capacitados y tienen la atención al 100% todo el tiempo, cosa que tampoco ocurre siempre...
Incluso en los videos que se muestran al principio se observa como el puntero o primero de la cuerda no ha puesto ninguna protección y como el Segundo suelta la cuerda de seguro, si el Primero se cae, habría sufrido una caída FF2 y el Segundo no tenía las manos sujetando la cuerda...
Me da la impresión que que este "análisis" es un poco parcial o tendencioso.
I am very struck by the fact that they do not mention any device designed for solo rope climbing (LRS) such as: The Mudo, Soloaid or the Silent Partner...
While the analysis is true, it does not include many techniques used for this purpose.
And it starts from the premise that "climbing with a partner is safer" and this is only true if the members of the group are trained and have 100% attention all the time, which does not always happen...
Even in the videos shown at the beginning it is observed how the Leader or first of the rope has not put any protection and how the Second releases the safety rope, if the Leader falls, he would have suffered an FF2 fall and the Belayer did not have hands holding the rope...
I get the impression that this "analysis" is a bit partial or biased.
Hey I found your other shoe dm me and we’ll get it back to you! Maybe I can belay you instead of climbing on your own too.
Great video! But, man, you are butchering the English language with your pronunciation.
"Climbing" has a silent B.
"occur" has nothing to do with the word 'cure'
"Tear value" has nothing to do with water from your eyes.
Sorry, but all these mistakes really put me off. There are so easy to fix.
Yeah, no thanks for putting so much effort into developing a groundbreaking risk assesment analysis of LRS, editing dozens of clips, writing a 20' script on this seminal work, and trying their best to use a non-native language instead of just captions for English / 'Murican folks. All that... for free.
Absolutely everybody uploading content on YT should think, speak and sound exactly like you and me. Makes me queazy when not the case.
You're right, I'd rather they'd never made such a video !
🙄
@iamsometimes6712 I said I love the video. And therefore of course I'm grateful about it.
I just wanted to point out things to improve on. And I'm sure he will. Somebody who is so meticulous like will never mispronounce the words ever again. Wonna bet?
Did you somehow not know foreign accents existed before you watching this video? Otherwise your comment is just pointless snark.