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I haven't used a Shunt before, I wouldn't know.

On the petzl website it says that the shunt is not suitable for self belaying. It will not lock if the user grabs it during a fall.

@@Kingdom0324 ok but I'd use a prusik or a machard too

@@GRAMANATOR1 Good advice, will try it out next time I go there

@@anviksiki108 Technically yes, but in practice the rope doesn't feed very well through it. You would need a lot of weight on the end of the rope to make it work. The Jumar is more bulky and will prevent you from getting your chest close to the wall. All you really need is the mechanism at the end, the handle is just extra and in the way.

@@adrobotics Thanks for the prompt reply. I will give it a try. Don't have a micro traction. That's why I was asking.

@@die_hertz No, the route is pretty straight, it might just look a bit off because of how I recorded it.

@@adrobotics fair enough, action cams make rock look weird

Good question. If you've rappelled with an ATC before, it would make sense to tie the prusik below the ATC in case your hand come off the rope. I haven't seen people do that with a GriGri since it is "good enough" on its own. I tied the prusik on top as a failsafe in case my GriGri detached from my harness, then the prusik would be my second connection to the rope. I wasn't comfortable enough rappelling down just on the GriGri back then and tried to back it up with anything I had on me. Nowadays I rap down just on the GriGri alone and feed the bottom end of the rope through a carabiner attached to my harness, this adds enough friction for the GriGri to engage under almost any circumstance. But of course never let go of the bottom end of the rope.

I wouldn't do that. Neither the Grigri nor the Prusik will catch you 100% for sure in this setup. The Grigri has failure modes like the weight of the rope below you not being big enough to engage it, and the Prusik can fail to catch if at any time it became too loose. All of these are things you would need to focus on every second move you make, which will distract you from climbing. Best to use at least one device (like the nano-trax) that will catch you no matter what and have a backup in case of some sort of malfunction of the first.

Don't get your panties in a knot 😅 They are just meant to keep the micro-tracks upright so that the rope feeds through it smoothly. There is no intention of it holding any significant weight.

@adrobotics i see So are you clipping your chest harness into your micro trax with anything?

@@tannersmith448 That's the thing. The chest harness is only there to keep the microtracks upright. I've seen others just use a carabiner and accessory cord, but that is too static and makes you hunch down all the time. If you use a few stretchy hair ties between the chest harness and the microtracks, then it can extend a bit so your back isn't arched the entire route. You can see between @2:48 and @3:00 how much the hair ties stretch when I'm down on the ground vs on the wall. The microtracks is hooked up directly into my climbing harness' belay loop. Everything else is just for convenience.

@adrobotics i see Thanks for the advice Your setup seems not only very sound, but very simple. That really makes me like what you've done here

Glad you like the setup. I started with a dynamic rope as well but switched to static, am very pleased with it. You don't actually "fall" with this setup, if you happen to slip off the wall, the microtrax immediately catches you in place if you use a static rope. We a dynamic rope, because of it being more elastic, you can drop several meters depending on the full length of the rope. When doing 2 pitches in one go, a 60-70m rope will stretch 2-3m, which is more than your height. I also didn't like how the sheath stretches around the teeth of the microtrax. I recommend switching to a static rope and maybe use the dynamic one just as a backup.

@@adrobotics you are 100% right about the dynamic v static rope. If you climb easier stuff, the rope chose seems less important, but yesterday I needed to ascend with a toothed ascender several times due to my skill gap 😂. Will need to get a static rope for sure. Q: Is it possible to have too many ropes or carabiners?

@@martinm931 Haha, you can get as many as you can carry 😂.

Camp lift de-sheaths rope the same as a toothed device. De-sheathing is a result of the cam being able to pinch closed on the rope, it's not because of teeth. The only way to prevent de-sheathing is a device that cannot close fully on the rope resulting in slippage under high load. If it doesn't slip, it will de-sheath or cut your rope. Not that the lift is a bad option, but it's not good for the specific reason you might think.

One thing I had to learn the hard way with the grigri for TR solo is that if the route is steep enough (as in the rope tension is straight up), the rope can actually get super jammed in the metal plate since it is not a straight through device like a nano trax. I had to jumar my way off of it and get it unstuck half way up the wall 😅.

I was using a dynamic rope in this video, but I've switched to a static rope since then.

Thank you. I'll check it out.

It works with the grigri though, but yes if it were an atc or anything else the third hand is on the break hand

A prusik can fail/slide if the wraps/width of rope isn't well adjusted. So you can't claim it works 100%. Let's be accurate, please.

You obviously have no clue what you are writing about. Please try to learn something, try it out, experience it, and grow your knowledge. The knots are safer than anything if you know what you are doing, either klemheist or the french or the classic.

Oh, you don't believe me? Maybe you should ask the very well-established, decades old community of rope soloists what they think of using a friction hitch as your backup device while rock climbing. I promise you, there are much better devices to use for this... especially on a taught rope. A friction knot is commonly used for tree work when you are actually climbing the rope, and is very far from ideal when climbing the rock with both hands free and in awkward, unpredictable positions. Before you bother commenting here again, go do some googling in actual rock climbing forums and let me know what you find. Just FYI, the best setup that I've ever used which puts this one to shame, is a TAZ Lov3 on one strand, with a camp goblin or other ascender on the other strand. That's a Ferreri, this is a Ford Taurus running on 5 out of 6 cylinders.

@@wileycoyote556 you just proved your ignorance. I've used them for 40 years

@@jansveen dude you're the one talking rubbish xD

Good idea. I experimented with a tshirt some time ago, but couldn't get it to stay where I wanted it to. Still a good idea I want to find a solution for. Thanks :D

@@adrobotics Perhaps a chunk of hose that could slip over the rope with a klemheist attached to it to hold it in place - just spit balling here.

After rappelling this one time I checked my rope and there were only a few strands left holding it together. It was rubbing back and forth on a sharp piece of rock, I almost died and didn’t even know it. I always put a towel or blanket down now for protection now.

​@@adroboticsmaybe you can keep it in place by using a friend or something like that

I started with dynamic but switched to static. It used to be too difficult to start a climb considering how much my old dynamic rope stretched. Works much better with static.

Lot's of people are afraid of progress capture devices like this one from shredding their ropes. But when they engage, they fully stop the decent, meaning that those metal teeth don't drag across the rope, they immediately dig in deep, so from as far as I can tell the rope isn't damaged at all.

@@adrobotics it wont be seeing any damage if the forces are below 4 kn after that there is a severe risk of sheath damage

@@felixbub7922 yes - MT good for TRS (Top Rope Solo) only w/ not much distance/force...not good for lead soloing

Simple, clean, redundant.

Yes, to add to his answer, the traxions are actually caming devices. If you look closely, the teeth are mostly used to “pull” a small cam against the rope. I don’t think they are the primary source of “stopping power” on the rope.

Hahaha, nici nu știu în ce să-l schimb 😅

The project is 5 years old, I don't think I have the code anymore.

Dap, mi-am luat prin vara 2017.

I've posted the source code in the video's description. The image is a hard-coded bitmap, see img[58][62]. As to how I obtained that bitmap: I took the original picture with me holding my guitar and cut out my silhouette in Photoshop, then I made it entirely black and put it on a white background. I scaled it down to 58x62 pixels and passed it through a threshold function in matlab that converted it to a 01 bitmap. Regex'd the result into the matrix you see hard-coded there. Cheers.

I may have also retouched the image a bit in Paint before sending it to MatLab.

I followed other peoples TH-cam videos on how to make the sensors, simply search DIY bend (or flex) sensor and you'll find plenty.

Adrian Popa yes i have seen, but they don't give me good results, while yours is very stable. you would help me a lot if you directed me how to make them

Well, I made these a bunch of years ago so don't really know anymore. I bought the plastic bags with the least amount of resistance as possible, around 100K Ohm. You have to be very careful when cutting it so not to have scratches or anything on it. This is the way I did it: 2 narrow strips and one strip twice the width of the other ones and bent it in half like this | o V o | where o represents a cable, | is one narrow strip and V is the wider one bent in half. Then I covered everything with duct tape. I also had lots of noise so I cut off the max and min parts of the signal in Arduino code and mapped everything else to about 5 increments. So from a signal range of 0-1024, I checked what signals where given when the sensor was completely bent and unbent which was around 400-800 then I mapped that to 0-4 in Arduino code. Hope this helped :)

and can you tell me where you bought the plastic bags from? i can even buy your flex sensors if their values are fine :) thanks for your help

I bought them from here www.tme.eu/ro/details/esdbb-1/pungi-si-folii-esd/ they don't seem to have the exact bags I bought anymore but that one should be fine. I made mine about 4 years ago so I don't even know if they exist anymore. You can buy flex sensors if you're in a hurry. Keep in mind that neither my sensors nor the ones you can buy are as good as you think they are.

it was time well spent <3

Try to give it more Amps and check that the other axis aren't consuming current even thou they're standing still (stepper motors consume current even when not rotating), be careful not to burn your circuits. If the motor keeps slipping off of the drive spiral, try jamming something between them so nothing can move except along the axis. Hope this helps :)

Thanks, I plan on further developing it, I just need time