Plz do not go back to stock. I believe these are fairly popular on n55s there aren't many that have these problems but there are a few ppl out there. I'm not completely sure how I fixed it whether it was a mhd update or replacing my lpfp. Tbh I'm leaning towards think LPFP replacement fixed it
N55s and N54s are very very strong engines especially N54s u need to stop worrying about Total catastrophic failure otherwise ur gonna force urself into selling the car. With these engines you have to be more lax and tackle problems when they become a greater issue and that's what I've learned over the past year with my n55. I'm currently FBO making 450whp with a e50 tune. Believe me when I say this I know what im talking about and I definitely know what you are experiencing. Hmu on Instagram and I can help u resolve the problem if you like @chitowntuners
I had the idle/start-up issue after my original MHD flash (stage 1+, mine never fully died on me though), fixed it by resetting adaptations. Was a little rough after, but cleared up, and never came back. Yours might be a valvetronic issue. Fortunately that had all already been replaced under warranty when I bought my car. You should really get an intercooler, even if you just get a cheap one. Definitely at least do spark-plugs. Also I'd highly recommend at least xHP stage 2, shifts are way quicker/smoother.
The sputtery cold starts maybe fixed by a new fuel pressure regulator. A weak regulator won't hold the necessary fuel pressure if the car sits for a long time. Also for your stalling issue, try to find an older version of MHD maps. I believe people started having the stalling issue after the 1.53 update. I've had MHD Stage 1+ since last November, roughly 6k miles. A year before that I did spark plugs, coil packs, charge pipe, and intercooler. I didn't have stalling issues till my valvetronic motor started failing. Unfortunately for me, the eccentric shaft had to be replaced too. The total was $2700 for that job, and a month before that my water pump went out. It's crazy how much stuff has gone wrong on my car with less than 70k miles on it. I get you on the sudden repairs part of owning this car (2011 335i xDrive 6MT), they get expensive very fast.
Just did an MHD tune, Stage 1 91 oct on my stock 2011 F10 535xi. Impressive results! Car feels alive and more responsive. Torque has increased and you feel sinking back in seat. I can hear BOV sound and the aggressive burbles in stock exhaust don’t sound obnoxious. Car idles just as smooth as it used to without MHD. Mine’s got more than 200km but I have recently replaced NGK spark plugs and coils. Over all very satisfied and will try Stage 1 with 93 oct tune next once I burn up all the 91 in the car.
I've been running MHD Stage 2+ on my N55 for a few months now. Running a VRSF catless DP, intercooler, charge pipe and BMS air filter. My cold start is the same. Sounds a bit rough for the first 15-20 seconds... never been worried about it though. Only difference is that I've got DCT, so it's never stalled. I haven't changed the spark plugs. Love everything about it so far.
Stephen Manna intercooler is the VRSF 7" HD intercooler. When installing, you need to cut some of the plastic that sits in front of the old intercooler. Besides that, it fits fine.
My car is a automatic with MHD stage 2 with VRSF downpipe and ARM charge pipe, I havent had any stalling issues yet but my idle revs up and down when I'm in gear. It happens at idle but its the weirdest thing ever. I did change my spark plugs to NGK 97506 which I highly recommend way better performance out of those than the bosch plugs. I recently started hearing a creeping noise on decel after I would rev the engine just spent 800$ replacing valve cover and boost solenoid but the problem is still there it only happens after I rev it like 4 times sometimes I hear the creeping noise when I accelerate lightly. Will most probably replace diverter valve next to see if that will help but other than that car is x drive and pulls like a beast looking to do a csf race intercooler, PRW coil pack upgrade, mishimoto catch can, BMS intake, Vader soulutions stage 2 lpfp (to run e50), and maybe upgraded inlets and outlets once I get my idle issue and that noise squared away.
Mine did that on cold starts but I don’t move my car for like 5-10 min after cold starts. I changed plugs and coils before the tune. I’m stage 1+ what helped me the most was getting shell + vpower gas and conoco. Where I live 91 is the highest octane available. But this did help dramatically with the cold start boggles and shut offs. For some reason on idle it moves around with the ac on and I’m not sure why, it happened a bit when it was stock but more now with the tune. Downpipe will be on this weekend along with stage 2
I’ve only had my audi for a few weeks now but I’ve noticed the same cold start issues. Could just be a german thing but I’m not really sure. I run stock for the most part other than a cold air intake and catless downpipe
Make sure your car has new one step colder NGK spark plugs which are made specifically for tuning and turning the boost up. Also get new coils and make sure you dont have crazy carbon build up. If so then get a walnut blast then buy an oil catch can to help prevent from build up getting in through the valve
Homie, you are running a stock charge pipe with a catless downpipe? I am surprised your car runs at all lol. The factory charge pipe is totally a piece of junk. I had mine blow apart on a stock motor... Do yourself a favor and get a charge pipe. Definitely makes a huge difference. No leaks at all.
Yea a catless downpipe with a stock charge pipe is just asking for issues. The first mod before tuning should ALWAYS be charge pipe before anything else. I rather have the charge pipe alone without the downpipe specially since you have just the stage 1 tune. I have stage 1 also and dont think im going any further because its already more power than I’m ever going to use.
MHD stage 1 no problem. Added VRSF downpipe and wagner intercooler. New spark plugs, new coils,VRSF charge pipe new, water pump new, drive belts changed …went to stage two after warming up went only 3/4 throttle and boom limp mode and codes misfire across all 6 cylinders. No vacuum leaks no fuel issues.., put back to stock car continues to run like trash cylinder 3 continues to misfire on stock tune. Won’t go stage 2 ever again probably sell car because BMW just ain’t what I’m used to. I owned 2 corvettes and modified and went wot all year with zero issues. I can buy a LS3 and start at 430 Hp way ahead of what MHD can even get you … good luck guys be careful!!
Ignition coils and spark plugs will fix this issue. The bimmerpost forums will help with these issues. No need to make a video. Also make sure you have all supporting mods recommend. It is best to replace spark plugs every 15k miles when tuned. Ignition coils every 30k. Car should be completely updated on maintenance before tuning. I higher tuned motor will require more frequent regular maintenance. That includes oil changes at a max of 5k. I do every 3k
I don’t have any issues I do have MHD currently, Make sure you clean your intake ports, I clean my intake ports with walnuts shells with compressor to sandblast easy and fast, get the NGK spark plugs 95770 gap team 0.022’ and get the ELDOR Ignition coil’s. And in most cases with any car or BMW car if you haven’t done maintenance to the car or pre-maintenance gonna show right away when you do a tune change plugs change sensors make sure you don’t have any boost leaks but is very common when you tune a car to start having issues it’s usually something wrong with the engine or Component or sensor needs to be changed Crankshaft sensor’s Vinos sensors water pump Fuel pumps injectors I could go on and on.
New Coils, new one plugs (one step colder), check ur injectors (see if leaky), also test the all those components, also test timing to see if you have pre-ignition. My e90 n55 would go into full limp mode and sometimes die because I had bad plugs, coils, and injectors. Just check it all🤣
I would also run the car for any BMW specific fault codes, my Valvetronic motor was all out of whack and had the absolute worst cold starts. Huge dips in rpm and stalls on my N55 335. After a calibration from a local Indy the car starts and idles perfectly.
Hey man love your channel I have a E90 2011 335i Xdrive and was considering going MHD but you’re problems kinda worry me as they do you, have you found a cure for this problem ?
Thank you for this video. I am still on the fence about using MHD or not. In my case I can manage repair costs however; I do not feel like fixing things just for fun or creating problems for myself when I currently have a reliable car through my 2 years ownership and current 56,000 miles total on the odometer. I’d only be running a stage 1 or 1+ and I’m strongly considering supporting mods. I’m following all your viewers comments on this video before I decide.
Hey bro does running burbles long term affects the turbos or the engine even if i have a catless down-pipe im currently running stage 1 and medium burbles tune
Hi I just bought MHD súper license I tune my BMW X5 35i 2012 for the first time stage 1 I did all the steps after flashing the car im getting misfiring codes check engine light is on the car is shaking a lot im getting these errors 0x35BE dme coding missing or chassis number wrong,0x2EFE combustion misfiring multiple cylinders detected,0x2f03 combustion misfiring cylinder 5 detected and a lot more errors the car starts and runs but shakes a lot at idle what should I do now, I just flash back to stock and it fail during the process i put new spark plugs and coils and it still the same I really want my car back how it was what should I do?
I have bms intake, straight pipe , and charge pipe without the mhd and my car does the exact same thing if you don't warm it up first bought mhd to hopefully clear the issue
Hey man, don’t know if you ever solved this issue but I’m guessing you did haha, what was it? My old n52 530i would shut off randomly and sputter sometimes, turned out to be a dirty mass airflow sensor.
I have stage 1 tune done on my 335is and I only have a intake. I’ve had no problems with the car but now I cannot pass smog anymore even if I put it in stage 0 which is the stock tune. So that really sucks
So I’ve been scouring over n55 type videos because I want to get one, and going into it knowing very little but hearing rumors of unreliability, I was pretty surprised to hear that basically all you need to do is upgrade plugs, coils and charge pipes to be able to run a tune from basically any company.....not even a hpfp or injectors or anything, literally just the spark side. Am I missing something? And then why does it seem like there are so many stigmas of these engines being unreliable? And how hard is it to just do REGULAR MAINTENANCE??? My head hurts watching kids pretend like they actually wrench on their cars. Ok I’m done. Also if there is something else I missed let me know.
Watch any of my recent civic videos before you question wether or not a wrench on my cars. And all you need to tune an N55 is coils, plugs and charge pipe. Get a down pipe on top of that and you’re onto stage 2. Get a front mount intercooler and welcome to stage 2+.
Boosted John Fair enough you know your way around Honda engines, and seems like you may know plenty about turbos, but then why in this particular n55 video do you seem so clueless? Like it’s not a big mystery why you’re having firing issues, and yet you proclaim “if I can’t figure this out, it’s going back to stock”. I can only assume this just a tactic to get more interest or you don’t know what you’re doing, in either case it’s a bad example for others to follow. Basically spreading miss-information.
Have the same tune on the early 2012 N55 335i and it does the same thing! Have tried Stage 0, stage1, stage2 from MHD. All of these cause the car to stall unless I wait about 1 minute before driving off. If I uninstall the MHD completely, the car drives fine when cold. Once warmed up or waiting 60 seconds, no issues. Did you ever find a fix, or settings in the software that make the first minute of driving possible? I have no other mods, only 53k miles on my 335i. Its the worst when a valet driver jumps in it really quick and cant move the car.....embarrassing
i have the same thing and been waiting for an update. im stage 2 plus FBO and ive noticed also that sometimes turning sharply at low speeds my car seems to chug and stutter a lot also
I installed MHD today and noticed s similar problem. I've noticed this: 1) idle seems to be reduced to about 680 rpm compared to about 750rpm pre MHD. This can make a big difference in the engines ability to idle correctly if the engine is cold. Especially if 2) the cold start roar is deactivated via MHD. I wouldn't worry too much about what you described.
About two months ago, it just randomly wouldn’t connect to my car for a week. I re installed, nothing, did all the stupid caching clearing crap, nothing. Restarted my tablet and it fixed it somehow? Now I can’t get my cables to connect to any device. I have a bimmergeeks pro cable. Needless to say mhd has been pretty fucking annoying so far to be completely honest. Especially when I just spent $140 on there gauges for them to just constantly crash then not even be able to connect at all. Sigh.
You don’t need any upgrades for stage 1 but if you don’t know how to work on it yourself I wouldn’t recommend a BMW period. Just my opinion. I wouldn’t put a stage 1 tune without at least upgrading the charge pipe.
Why don't you use the diagnostic module to diagnose. Your response to do you need to have upgraded hardware was wrong, people must read the finer details it states upgraded hardware strongly recommended and for enthusiasts who can do basic servicing. I have it on my 435i running 2+ map with amazing results and zero issues
I am running JB4 MHD BEF - It's great. I had the JB4 alone before and kept going into limp mode. After the MHD BEF, no more BEF with my car lol...see my complete mode list @ Same issues with cold start, but should give our car about 30 seconds or so for the RPM to drop before taking off any ways.
I recently went back to stock tune and yes, the issues are gone. However, when I was still running MHD, I found that if I used a higher quality fuel such as Shell, the issues were much less intense.
Like everyone else said change new coils and spark plugs all Necessary maintenance one most important is clean your intake ports on iN54 and N55 engines or direct injection engines need to be cleaned every year, Make sure you got the Injectors up-to-date make sure your low and high pressure pumps are working no boost pressure loss, and the most important is ProTune your car.You can do a half ass upgrades with out doing a Pro tune Idiot sorry do you home work.
You just answer yourself to your own issues your having. I am having issues , yes I never did any maintanence...... It's not MHD its your maintenance being due
Ugh.. Worst, speculative, downright uninformative and honestly misleading video I have seen yet on MHD.. You have no idea if MHD is even causing your issues. It is more likely it exasperated issues you already had. You also have done close to nothing to be an accurate judge of MHD in itself.. Sorry but its the truth.
this dude, it is most likely your car dude. I don't think you actually wrench your car at all. lmao 4:24 answers confirms my presumption. Don't make videos bro.
No hate.. but MHD is very very VERY reliable.. do not listen to this guy lol he’s just trying to sell merch.. do the spark plugs and ignition coils and you’ll be good.
MrVeteranNoob actually no. I’m sharing my honest opinion and my factual experiences. Also I’ve been grinding to design that merch by hand for my subscribers because they have been asking me to make merch since 1500 subs. Did it for them. Not the money. Nuff said.
Don't blame tuning ... maintenance first. Spark plugs, coils, chargepipe at the minimum. I even did the fuel filter which most people don't do. As first as cold start issues my LPFP was bad and replaced. No problems what so ever and fast starting all the time.
What's your experience with MHD?
Plz do not go back to stock. I believe these are fairly popular on n55s there aren't many that have these problems but there are a few ppl out there. I'm not completely sure how I fixed it whether it was a mhd update or replacing my lpfp. Tbh I'm leaning towards think LPFP replacement fixed it
N55s and N54s are very very strong engines especially N54s u need to stop worrying about Total catastrophic failure otherwise ur gonna force urself into selling the car. With these engines you have to be more lax and tackle problems when they become a greater issue and that's what I've learned over the past year with my n55. I'm currently FBO making 450whp with a e50 tune. Believe me when I say this I know what im talking about and I definitely know what you are experiencing. Hmu on Instagram and I can help u resolve the problem if you like @chitowntuners
Same problem with the cold start I took it off and I got better results it sucks to go back to the annoying cold start
Nothing but good experiences for me :)
I had the idle/start-up issue after my original MHD flash (stage 1+, mine never fully died on me though), fixed it by resetting adaptations. Was a little rough after, but cleared up, and never came back. Yours might be a valvetronic issue. Fortunately that had all already been replaced under warranty when I bought my car. You should really get an intercooler, even if you just get a cheap one. Definitely at least do spark-plugs. Also I'd highly recommend at least xHP stage 2, shifts are way quicker/smoother.
The sputtery cold starts maybe fixed by a new fuel pressure regulator. A weak regulator won't hold the necessary fuel pressure if the car sits for a long time. Also for your stalling issue, try to find an older version of MHD maps. I believe people started having the stalling issue after the 1.53 update. I've had MHD Stage 1+ since last November, roughly 6k miles. A year before that I did spark plugs, coil packs, charge pipe, and intercooler.
I didn't have stalling issues till my valvetronic motor started failing. Unfortunately for me, the eccentric shaft had to be replaced too. The total was $2700 for that job, and a month before that my water pump went out. It's crazy how much stuff has gone wrong on my car with less than 70k miles on it. I get you on the sudden repairs part of owning this car (2011 335i xDrive 6MT), they get expensive very fast.
Literally just having work done to mine now at 55 k miles , exactly same problem, problem occured after 1 week ownership
You need to do your maintenance before any tuning etc.
You’re right but damn
Just did an MHD tune, Stage 1 91 oct on my stock 2011 F10 535xi. Impressive results! Car feels alive and more responsive. Torque has increased and you feel sinking back in seat. I can hear BOV sound and the aggressive burbles in stock exhaust don’t sound obnoxious. Car idles just as smooth as it used to without MHD. Mine’s got more than 200km but I have recently replaced NGK spark plugs and coils. Over all very satisfied and will try Stage 1 with 93 oct tune next once I burn up all the 91 in the car.
It is a GDI engine so I would check the carbon build up on the exhaust valves I've been through that few times.
I've been running MHD Stage 2+ on my N55 for a few months now. Running a VRSF catless DP, intercooler, charge pipe and BMS air filter. My cold start is the same. Sounds a bit rough for the first 15-20 seconds... never been worried about it though. Only difference is that I've got DCT, so it's never stalled. I haven't changed the spark plugs. Love everything about it so far.
Hey :) Interested in which brand of intercooler you went with. I have an N55 with a DCT I heard some intercoolers don’t fit with the DCT?
Stephen Manna intercooler is the VRSF 7" HD intercooler. When installing, you need to cut some of the plastic that sits in front of the old intercooler. Besides that, it fits fine.
My car is a automatic with MHD stage 2 with VRSF downpipe and ARM charge pipe, I havent had any stalling issues yet but my idle revs up and down when I'm in gear. It happens at idle but its the weirdest thing ever. I did change my spark plugs to NGK 97506 which I highly recommend way better performance out of those than the bosch plugs. I recently started hearing a creeping noise on decel after I would rev the engine just spent 800$ replacing valve cover and boost solenoid but the problem is still there it only happens after I rev it like 4 times sometimes I hear the creeping noise when I accelerate lightly. Will most probably replace diverter valve next to see if that will help but other than that car is x drive and pulls like a beast looking to do a csf race intercooler, PRW coil pack upgrade, mishimoto catch can, BMS intake, Vader soulutions stage 2 lpfp (to run e50), and maybe upgraded inlets and outlets once I get my idle issue and that noise squared away.
Dang! Not bad man!
I love my jet tag! Awesome merch! I don’t know what MHD is but you know what my recommendation would be. 😊 xoxo
Hahaha thanks momma! MHD is an app that you can download that allows you to make more horsepower.
Boosted John Thanks John! 😊
Ive did stage 2 on my n55 4 days ago so far no problems!
Also I have vrsf DP, vrsf charge pipe, Afe intake
How's it going? Is fmic really neccessary?
Helps alot for multiple light pulls
I have an n55 and when I first put the mhd I went to stage 2 right away and my coils got destroyed right away
Saying that I believe you should definitely do supporting mods
Ender Gonzalez I’m planning on doing supporting mods ASAP.
Mine did that on cold starts but I don’t move my car for like 5-10 min after cold starts. I changed plugs and coils before the tune. I’m stage 1+ what helped me the most was getting shell + vpower gas and conoco. Where I live 91 is the highest octane available. But this did help dramatically with the cold start boggles and shut offs. For some reason on idle it moves around with the ac on and I’m not sure why, it happened a bit when it was stock but more now with the tune. Downpipe will be on this weekend along with stage 2
I’m experiencing pretty much the same symptoms.
I’ve only had my audi for a few weeks now but I’ve noticed the same cold start issues. Could just be a german thing but I’m not really sure. I run stock for the most part other than a cold air intake and catless downpipe
Others have been suggesting that it could be a boost leak.
Boosted John Hmm i might have to check that out 🤷🏼♂️
Make sure your car has new one step colder NGK spark plugs which are made specifically for tuning and turning the boost up. Also get new coils and make sure you dont have crazy carbon build up. If so then get a walnut blast then buy an oil catch can to help prevent from build up getting in through the valve
Homie, you are running a stock charge pipe with a catless downpipe? I am surprised your car runs at all lol. The factory charge pipe is totally a piece of junk. I had mine blow apart on a stock motor... Do yourself a favor and get a charge pipe. Definitely makes a huge difference. No leaks at all.
I'll be doing that very soon. Thanks for the advice!
Yea a catless downpipe with a stock charge pipe is just asking for issues. The first mod before tuning should ALWAYS be charge pipe before anything else. I rather have the charge pipe alone without the downpipe specially since you have just the stage 1 tune. I have stage 1 also and dont think im going any further because its already more power than I’m ever going to use.
Yup I’m surprised his charge pipe hasn’t disintegrated!
MHD stage 1 no problem. Added VRSF downpipe and wagner intercooler. New spark plugs, new coils,VRSF charge pipe new, water pump new, drive belts changed …went to stage two after warming up went only 3/4 throttle and boom limp mode and codes misfire across all 6 cylinders. No vacuum leaks no fuel issues.., put back to stock car continues to run like trash cylinder 3 continues to misfire on stock tune. Won’t go stage 2 ever again probably sell car because BMW just ain’t what I’m used to. I owned 2 corvettes and modified and went wot all year with zero issues. I can buy a LS3 and start at 430 Hp way ahead of what MHD can even get you … good luck guys be careful!!
Ignition coils and spark plugs will fix this issue. The bimmerpost forums will help with these issues. No need to make a video. Also make sure you have all supporting mods recommend. It is best to replace spark plugs every 15k miles when tuned. Ignition coils every 30k. Car should be completely updated on maintenance before tuning. I higher tuned motor will require more frequent regular maintenance.
That includes oil changes at a max of 5k. I do every 3k
Thanks for the info!
What type of mods before starting on the tune exactly?
I don’t have any issues I do have MHD currently, Make sure you clean your intake ports, I clean my intake ports with walnuts shells with compressor to sandblast easy and fast, get the NGK spark plugs 95770 gap team 0.022’ and get the ELDOR Ignition coil’s. And in most cases with any car or BMW car if you haven’t done maintenance to the car or pre-maintenance gonna show right away when you do a tune change plugs change sensors make sure you don’t have any boost leaks but is very common when you tune a car to start having issues it’s usually something wrong with the engine or Component or sensor needs to be changed Crankshaft sensor’s Vinos sensors water pump Fuel pumps injectors I could go on and on.
Thank you for all the info!
New Coils, new one plugs (one step colder), check ur injectors (see if leaky), also test the all those components, also test timing to see if you have pre-ignition. My e90 n55 would go into full limp mode and sometimes die because I had bad plugs, coils, and injectors. Just check it all🤣
I’m running “stage 2+” but it feels like it’s making the same power as stock with mods. Any info?
I had the same problems till I flashed to a updated verison
Zack Nottke interesting
I have the same car and the same thing happens to me, still can’t find idea just kept my car stock. Vrsf downpipe & fmic, cob chargepipe
Try using better gas! I started filling up at shell only and it’s improved my reliability A LOT!
Should I go with new factory spark plugs or NGK plugs for stage 1?
I would also run the car for any BMW specific fault codes, my Valvetronic motor was all out of whack and had the absolute worst cold starts. Huge dips in rpm and stalls on my N55 335. After a calibration from a local Indy the car starts and idles perfectly.
Hey man love your channel I have a E90 2011 335i Xdrive and was considering going MHD but you’re problems kinda worry me as they do you, have you found a cure for this problem ?
Use quality gas! I’ve been using only shell and it’s been much better.
Boosted John thanks for the quick reply bro sounds easy enough !
Zachery Evans you’re going to love it 🤙🏼
Thank you for this video. I am still on the fence about using MHD or not. In my case I can manage repair costs however; I do not feel like fixing things just for fun or creating problems for myself when I currently have a reliable car through my 2 years ownership and current 56,000 miles total on the odometer. I’d only be running a stage 1 or 1+ and I’m strongly considering supporting mods. I’m following all your viewers comments on this video before I decide.
Hey bro does running burbles long term affects the turbos or the engine even if i have a catless down-pipe im currently running stage 1 and medium burbles tune
How about your fuel pump??? Shutting off on idle sounds like not enough fuel pressure. If it was the spark plugs, wouldn’t they misfire first??
Good point.
Hi I just bought MHD súper license I tune my BMW X5 35i 2012 for the first time stage 1 I did all the steps after flashing the car im getting misfiring codes check engine light is on the car is shaking a lot im getting these errors 0x35BE dme coding missing or chassis number wrong,0x2EFE combustion misfiring multiple cylinders detected,0x2f03 combustion misfiring cylinder 5 detected and a lot more errors the car starts and runs but shakes a lot at idle what should I do now, I just flash back to stock and it fail during the process i put new spark plugs and coils and it still the same I really want my car back how it was what should I do?
I have bms intake, straight pipe , and charge pipe without the mhd and my car does the exact same thing if you don't warm it up first bought mhd to hopefully clear the issue
Hey man, don’t know if you ever solved this issue but I’m guessing you did haha, what was it? My old n52 530i would shut off randomly and sputter sometimes, turned out to be a dirty mass airflow sensor.
I have stage 1 tune done on my 335is and I only have a intake. I’ve had no problems with the car but now I cannot pass smog anymore even if I put it in stage 0 which is the stock tune. So that really sucks
I have the same problem with the idle and I just replaced my spark plugs and it feels the same 😐
Hmmm. Skim the comments section on this vid. A lot of people have offered a lot of good ideas.
If you have a catless downpipe you should use stage2
I just might.
So I’ve been scouring over n55 type videos because I want to get one, and going into it knowing very little but hearing rumors of unreliability, I was pretty surprised to hear that basically all you need to do is upgrade plugs, coils and charge pipes to be able to run a tune from basically any company.....not even a hpfp or injectors or anything, literally just the spark side. Am I missing something? And then why does it seem like there are so many stigmas of these engines being unreliable? And how hard is it to just do REGULAR MAINTENANCE??? My head hurts watching kids pretend like they actually wrench on their cars. Ok I’m done. Also if there is something else I missed let me know.
Watch any of my recent civic videos before you question wether or not a wrench on my cars. And all you need to tune an N55 is coils, plugs and charge pipe. Get a down pipe on top of that and you’re onto stage 2. Get a front mount intercooler and welcome to stage 2+.
Boosted John Fair enough you know your way around Honda engines, and seems like you may know plenty about turbos, but then why in this particular n55 video do you seem so clueless? Like it’s not a big mystery why you’re having firing issues, and yet you proclaim “if I can’t figure this out, it’s going back to stock”. I can only assume this just a tactic to get more interest or you don’t know what you’re doing, in either case it’s a bad example for others to follow. Basically spreading miss-information.
Have the same tune on the early 2012 N55 335i and it does the same thing! Have tried Stage 0, stage1, stage2 from MHD. All of these cause the car to stall unless I wait about 1 minute before driving off. If I uninstall the MHD completely, the car drives fine when cold. Once warmed up or waiting 60 seconds, no issues. Did you ever find a fix, or settings in the software that make the first minute of driving possible? I have no other mods, only 53k miles on my 335i. Its the worst when a valet driver jumps in it really quick and cant move the car.....embarrassing
Never found a fix and unfortunately I never will since I sold the car. I miss it tho 😢
i have the same thing and been waiting for an update. im stage 2 plus FBO and ive noticed also that sometimes turning sharply at low speeds my car seems to chug and stutter a lot also
U ever figure this out?
My old one used to do this all time, always thought it was carbon build up due to it being at 90k miles
Transfer case needs service
Hey, I’m moving back down to Illinois from WI and I want to put a cat less down pipe on my 335 but I don’t know about emissions, what do you do lol
0:47 rip my guy
Jack lol
I installed MHD today and noticed s similar problem. I've noticed this: 1) idle seems to be reduced to about 680 rpm compared to about 750rpm pre MHD. This can make a big difference in the engines ability to idle correctly if the engine is cold. Especially if 2) the cold start roar is deactivated via MHD. I wouldn't worry too much about what you described.
About two months ago, it just randomly wouldn’t connect to my car for a week. I re installed, nothing, did all the stupid caching clearing crap, nothing. Restarted my tablet and it fixed it somehow? Now I can’t get my cables to connect to any device. I have a bimmergeeks pro cable. Needless to say mhd has been pretty fucking annoying so far to be completely honest. Especially when I just spent $140 on there gauges for them to just constantly crash then not even be able to connect at all. Sigh.
You don’t need any upgrades for stage 1 but if you don’t know how to work on it yourself I wouldn’t recommend a BMW period. Just my opinion. I wouldn’t put a stage 1 tune without at least upgrading the charge pipe.
John. To me the tune isn’t worth it if it voids warranty. If out of warranty maybe.
I’m out of warranty
Did the spark plugs fix it?
I’m in Schaumburg, where are you at?
Why don't you use the diagnostic module to diagnose. Your response to do you need to have upgraded hardware was wrong, people must read the finer details it states upgraded hardware strongly recommended and for enthusiasts who can do basic servicing. I have it on my 435i running 2+ map with amazing results and zero issues
So just coils and plugs?
If you run any blend of e85 you will have this happen sporatically. Plus you really need to upgrade your spark plugs & coils
What plugs and coulda do I go with?
@@boosted_john I know this is a late comment but alot of people in forums recommend NGK plugs as they are 1 step colder than stock n55 ones
Do the vanos bolts recall ASAP
Had that done already 🤙🏼
Eccentric valve?
You might have a boost leak?
Ricky Heystee posaibly, but the car doesn’t ever go into limp mode.
Homie, charge pipe.
Just Someguy big facts
This all has nothing to do with MHD, it has more to do with the state of your car. Get some maintenance done and only after that, start tuning.
I am running JB4 MHD BEF - It's great. I had the JB4 alone before and kept going into limp mode. After the MHD BEF, no more BEF with my car lol...see my complete mode list
@
Same issues with cold start, but should give our car about 30 seconds or so for the RPM to drop before taking off any ways.
MHD is not a good long term install for your BMW. Your engine will fail early
Check the VANOS solenoid too
That’s probably your crank seal going
Or Do you want to buy my JB4 w/connect kit??
i bet u uninstalled it and maybe it cleared all issues?
I recently went back to stock tune and yes, the issues are gone. However, when I was still running MHD, I found that if I used a higher quality fuel such as Shell, the issues were much less intense.
Boosted John that sounds like very anecdotal evidence. What makes you think Shell gas is better than anywhere else?
Like everyone else said change new coils and spark plugs all Necessary maintenance one most important is clean your intake ports on iN54 and N55 engines or direct injection engines need to be cleaned every year, Make sure you got the Injectors up-to-date make sure your low and high pressure pumps are working no boost pressure loss, and the most important is ProTune your car.You can do a half ass upgrades with out doing a Pro tune Idiot sorry do you home work.
:)
Not worth it
If you still own this car you can try and run kies motorsports stage 1
Ok!
You just answer yourself to your own issues your having.
I am having issues , yes I never did any maintanence......
It's not MHD its your maintenance being due
Ugh.. Worst, speculative, downright uninformative and honestly misleading video I have seen yet on MHD..
You have no idea if MHD is even causing your issues. It is more likely it exasperated issues you already had. You also have done close to nothing to be an accurate judge of MHD in itself..
Sorry but its the truth.
this dude, it is most likely your car dude. I don't think you actually wrench your car at all. lmao 4:24 answers confirms my presumption. Don't make videos bro.
Bro N54 and n55 HATE to be tuned on bad plugs and coils, no wonder you’re getting shitty startups
oh also, chargepipe. duh
No hate.. but MHD is very very VERY reliable.. do not listen to this guy lol he’s just trying to sell merch.. do the spark plugs and ignition coils and you’ll be good.
MrVeteranNoob actually no. I’m sharing my honest opinion and my factual experiences.
Also I’ve been grinding to design that merch by hand for my subscribers because they have been asking me to make merch since 1500 subs. Did it for them. Not the money. Nuff said.
He said he have a catless downpipe but he’s on stage 1 map. He should be at stage 2 map
Don't blame tuning ... maintenance first. Spark plugs, coils, chargepipe at the minimum. I even did the fuel filter which most people don't do. As first as cold start issues my LPFP was bad and replaced. No problems what so ever and fast starting all the time.
Vladimir Daguio not with just catless. He’d need an intercooler and charge pipe upgrade at least.