Wow, amazing video. I had to watch 30 minutes of ads and red necks plugging two batteries together to jump start them before I came across some one who actually new what they were doing. After watching this, I might just buy a new battery now because I don't have the spot welder and one cell is bad. I'm glad I watched, though.
Good video! Did you have any later problems with the pack w/ new batts? My understanding is that CIDs blow due to gas pressure from over-voltage. So either a faulty charging circuit was over-volting them, or the tool was putting back EMF onto the pack (should be dioded to prevent this). It's an odd failure.
Thank you for this nice video... I tried to do the sqme with my ridgid 4Ah battery 5S2P... But when I charged the first time, one pack has a voltage higher than the other ones... and when the charge is over I have 3.9V-3.9V-4.2V-3.9V-3.9V . So the middle one is charging faster, and during a discharge, this one is also discharged a little bit more than the other ones which are all equivalent. At the right beginning, all pack has started with the same voltage. Do you think I should change those 2 cells by new ones (all cells are new from the same seller, with the same date), or should I suspect an issue with the BMS ? thank you in advance for you help... I'm really stuck !!!
Isn't the rated battery voltage VERY important here? You only mention the load current (which is also important). If you install new cells that are rated at a lower voltage, then those cells will get over charged which can lead to dangerous combustion IF the over-charge protection circuitry doesn't do it's job. I'm curious what is the rated voltage for the OEM cells. I have a 2.0AH Hyper that isn't charging and isn't turning on the LEDs, but all cells in series show approx 20Vdc. i cleaned some crud from the circuit board, but still not working. Is there an on-board Reset one can assert? The on-board +5V reads 4.4V. I suppose i could desolder one battery lead and force a Reset that way. Thanks so much!
What a great video! Your detailed knowledge & expertise in dos & don'ts is priceless! I love this kind of tinkering but would have turned my exhausted battery pack into a carcinogenic lump of heavy metals & VOCs if I hadn't watched this. Your safety ethos is such an indication of your desire to do everything right. (Well, except for trying to power your entire house with a 5V 4000mAh cell phone battery!🤣🤭🫣) Just noticed your $20 spot welder video & can't wait to see something I've wanted for years! I look forward to exploring your video library like a zombie at the Superbowl!
21:12 Is it fine to just leave all those *loose* nickel strips across the terminals? I'm no electrician, but a part of me was _screaming_ in dread in case one of those strips shifted...
Thats really up to the one working on it. If your careful this way could save you time from switching back and forth to do each strip individually. If you did it individually you then wouldn't have to worry about it. Both ways can be executed safely, One just more inherently safe then the other. If it was a larger size pack i probably wouldn't have done it that way for that reason. If the other side of the cells haven't been connected yet then it wouldn't be a problem and you could lay them out first no issue.
Do you know what’s causing the battery to shuts off when the battery is under a heavy load? My Ridgid battery shuts off in a fast start. Slow start is fine.
That usually means internal resistance is high and when there is a large current draw the voltage drops cause it drop below a minimum the tool knows and so it shuts off. Getting close for a new battery
At 22:36, you cut off part of a tab and she shot right into your spot welder. Dude, take some time to cover your ass, or spot welder in this case. Love the video. Thanks for the info. You will become more vigilant as you age, mostly due to experience (or bad experience). Also, you could use vinyl or cotton gloves when working with this stuff to control oils and such. I used to run a circuit board manufacturing plant for 10 years. Again, thanks for taking the time to make this video.
If it wasn't junk it wouldn't need fixed. Milwaukee or DeWalt, just pick one and stick with it. And stay away from the wannabe brands that don't stand behind their products. However your video is really good along with your advice.
Im a contractor so im pretty familiar with all the brands, Mainly operate dewalt at work but every brand has atleast 1 tool thats better than the other brands, Would just suck to have to carry more than one brand of batteries. All the new brushless tools are junk though, I wish they would bring back brushed tools, I've never once changed a single brush and they don't have motor controllers that fail and suck at speed moderation. I've seen 3 brushless drills/impact fail within 3 years, One of which was faulty out of the box. The only brushed tool i ever broke was because i was pissed and threw it across the job 😅. I kinda ranted there but all the tool brands suck somehow lol
Older batteries were only covered for lifetime if the came in a kit with a tool. Accessory batteries sold separately were only warrantied for 3 years after registration.
@@KooshiesElectronics im here to say that exact thing, I have no lifetime warranty, and know most companies dont take the time to do it either. Meaning theres tons of ridgid batteries laying around needing some tlc.
Wow, amazing video. I had to watch 30 minutes of ads and red necks plugging two batteries together to jump start them before I came across some one who actually new what they were doing. After watching this, I might just buy a new battery now because I don't have the spot welder and one cell is bad. I'm glad I watched, though.
did this battery hold up over time?
Super vidéo, je vais aller réparer ma batterie qui est identique à la tienne. Merci 😀😉
Good video! Did you have any later problems with the pack w/ new batts? My understanding is that CIDs blow due to gas pressure from over-voltage. So either a faulty charging circuit was over-volting them, or the tool was putting back EMF onto the pack (should be dioded to prevent this). It's an odd failure.
do I need a spot welder?
Hi, I'm near Toronto. Thanks for the videos, very useful. Where do you get your 18650 from?
Bought them from a battery recycling plant, Can't do that anymore because regulations are getting really tight
A place called the internet can help to find those batteries as well! 🤯
@@mxb2432 Ah, you say they're all the same and I can rust what the vendors claim? Jeez, if only I'd have known.
Thankyou
Those contacts for the drill look very vulnerable…maybe cover them with tape while u r working? Otherwise great video and and explanation!
Well done! Thank you.
Thank you for this nice video... I tried to do the sqme with my ridgid 4Ah battery 5S2P... But when I charged the first time, one pack has a voltage higher than the other ones... and when the charge is over I have 3.9V-3.9V-4.2V-3.9V-3.9V . So the middle one is charging faster, and during a discharge, this one is also discharged a little bit more than the other ones which are all equivalent. At the right beginning, all pack has started with the same voltage. Do you think I should change those 2 cells by new ones (all cells are new from the same seller, with the same date), or should I suspect an issue with the BMS ? thank you in advance for you help... I'm really stuck !!!
Isn't the rated battery voltage VERY important here? You only mention the load current (which is also important). If you install new cells that are rated at a lower voltage, then those cells will get over charged which can lead to dangerous combustion IF the over-charge protection circuitry doesn't do it's job.
I'm curious what is the rated voltage for the OEM cells. I have a 2.0AH Hyper that isn't charging and isn't turning on the LEDs, but all cells in series show approx 20Vdc. i cleaned some crud from the circuit board, but still not working. Is there an on-board Reset one can assert? The on-board +5V reads 4.4V. I suppose i could desolder one battery lead and force a Reset that way. Thanks so much!
What a great video! Your detailed knowledge & expertise in dos & don'ts is priceless! I love this kind of tinkering but would have turned my exhausted battery pack into a carcinogenic lump of heavy metals & VOCs if I hadn't watched this. Your safety ethos is such an indication of your desire to do everything right. (Well, except for trying to power your entire house with a 5V 4000mAh cell phone battery!🤣🤭🫣)
Just noticed your $20 spot welder video & can't wait to see something I've wanted for years! I look forward to exploring your video library like a zombie at the Superbowl!
21:12 Is it fine to just leave all those *loose* nickel strips across the terminals?
I'm no electrician, but a part of me was _screaming_ in dread in case one of those strips shifted...
Thats really up to the one working on it. If your careful this way could save you time from switching back and forth to do each strip individually. If you did it individually you then wouldn't have to worry about it. Both ways can be executed safely, One just more inherently safe then the other. If it was a larger size pack i probably wouldn't have done it that way for that reason. If the other side of the cells haven't been connected yet then it wouldn't be a problem and you could lay them out first no issue.
Great video. Want to see your phone setup.
Do you know what’s causing the battery to shuts off when the battery is under a heavy load? My Ridgid battery shuts off in a fast start. Slow start is fine.
That usually means internal resistance is high and when there is a large current draw the voltage drops cause it drop below a minimum the tool knows and so it shuts off. Getting close for a new battery
one of the batteries is series is bad and is collapsing. Might have become chronically under-charged and need a little top up.
Thank You !
At 22:36, you cut off part of a tab and she shot right into your spot welder. Dude, take some time to cover your ass, or spot welder in this case. Love the video. Thanks for the info. You will become more vigilant as you age, mostly due to experience (or bad experience). Also, you could use vinyl or cotton gloves when working with this stuff to control oils and such. I used to run a circuit board manufacturing plant for 10 years. Again, thanks for taking the time to make this video.
Freezing battery help at all
Where my mind goes instantly when the cells didn’t fit initially.
Man the flying piece is unnerving
😱zap ⚡️ 🔥
If it wasn't junk it wouldn't need fixed. Milwaukee or DeWalt, just pick one and stick with it. And stay away from the wannabe brands that don't stand behind their products. However your video is really good along with your advice.
Im a contractor so im pretty familiar with all the brands, Mainly operate dewalt at work but every brand has atleast 1 tool thats better than the other brands, Would just suck to have to carry more than one brand of batteries. All the new brushless tools are junk though, I wish they would bring back brushed tools, I've never once changed a single brush and they don't have motor controllers that fail and suck at speed moderation. I've seen 3 brushless drills/impact fail within 3 years, One of which was faulty out of the box. The only brushed tool i ever broke was because i was pissed and threw it across the job 😅. I kinda ranted there but all the tool brands suck somehow lol
Why do you need to waste time and money to replacing Ridgid brand battery cell. All Ridgid battery are life time service replacement.(It mean FREE)
Not everyone has the proof of purchase to make use of that. I got all these batteries for free second hand.
Older batteries were only covered for lifetime if the came in a kit with a tool. Accessory batteries sold separately were only warrantied for 3 years after registration.
@@KooshiesElectronics im here to say that exact thing, I have no lifetime warranty, and know most companies dont take the time to do it either. Meaning theres tons of ridgid batteries laying around needing some tlc.
Battery in freezer
Slide in cold
Done