I have tons of Ridgid batteries but I registered them all for the warranty. I never had any issues yet that would cause me to use the warranty. But I suspect they'll try to make hoops to jump through. Incidentally, I just bought an adapter plate that brings the 18 V out for any use. I am sure Ridgid is happy about that. It is amazing to me how many components they have on the board.
Like any warranty, Yes there is always hoops and they are good at catching you on terms you never expected to exist. No company wants to hand out stuff for free, Even if its their fault lol. Some companies are better than others but its worth researching other peoples experience
I just filed for warranty replacement on a battery (first time after several years of use). Process couldn't have been easier, they asked a few simple questions over the phone and are shipping out my new battery. I was having the same issue as the 1.5Ah "new battery" as demonstrated in this video. Battery would take a full charge but just work in any of the tools. After taking it apart and dry brushing it, it seems to work now... fingers crossed it stays that way
@@nycsheki had a rigid driver and drill set with 2 batteries. Registered it properly. One of the batteries failed. I tried to get it replaced. The company required me to return the entire set, both batteries and both tools for them to honor the warranty. I needed the tools for my job and could not send the tools back and wait....ended up buying a new battery. ...grrrr
I have a video on my channel where i replace the cells in one of these packs. Its not a hard process assuming you have the tools needed, Just be mindful of the possible diameter differences between some 18650s, It can make it a pain like it did in my case.
Battery 1&3: 0 V across the cell pack can also indicate a bad board which has a short, and the cells will accept a forced charge to confirm this. 2nd battery: May not activate charging circuit. For all these, boards are available direct from Chy-nah for about $12
You can clean a live board with WD-40, the WD means water displacement and the 40 simply enough meant how many tries till they got it right. I actually spray directly into many electronics especially switches and volume, gain, balance ext control knobs that have drop outdoors or squawking when it’s moved. Works amazingly good. Anyway, I doubt that intel would say this is a good method to even be on their boards and might even blame corrosion on them but corrosion stops when I use it on anything small and I am not counting lead battery to battery terminals cause that is simply a lot to ask of anything. It works on AC or DC current equally with AC that’s non capacitive as a capacitor on either can drop that voltage into you easily and it’s dangerous so be sure you properly and safely discharge them with any safe means you can use per that voltage output or a lead from + and - side in some salt water works on anything though can’t trust IMHO because no way to see it escape. Bulbs work well so long as voltage range is met. Lights and dims with draining of capacitor… WD-40 won’t short the capacitor but only said cause for a capacitor to kill you it requires no plug or battery connected at all being a power bank or storage place and unloads all power in fraction of a second making extremely dangerous! Anyway, WD-40 may be something you would like to try. Works serious wonders on electronics and for the record it is not a lubricant at all… thx and keep videos coming, getting better btw…
Your right about that, Many people don't even know the simple meaning of that abbreviation. Yes it is Di-electric and hydrophobic by nature as oil is nonpolar, And it most definately can be "safely" used for cleaning electrical corrosion. I put it it quotations because WD-40 is a solvent loaded with petroleum and some heavy solvents that may not be kind to certain materials. The reason i don't use it for cleaning electronics is due to the lower evaporation rate of WD-40 compared to 100% isopropanol that i typically use (I only had cheap stuff that may have had water). Also, Once the solvents evaporate you are left with the petroleum oils as residue. Thanks for the comment and feedback! Happy days!
alcohol is hygroscopic and holds at least 19% water. use CO2 spray for air flow cleaner for cars. the fact that nothing visibly happened is prob due to themaybe-not-so-bad lacquer insulation on top of the print or the brush didn't hold enough water. thx for the vid!
Yes Daniel and Rdwyer, I used to use WD40 and air on vehicle ICU's and other electronic modules. As long as the vehicle was never powered on while under water, I had incredibly good luck by blowing off all water, WD40, and the compressed air again. Really must have done it well over 50 times and seldom ever had a failure. But, the vehicle had to be powered off. If someone tried to start a flooded vehicle, then many times it would fry the ECU. One added note. I would never risk the SRS modules. No air bag modules and no Anti-Lock brake modules. Not worth the risk on those. Too much of a safety liability
Distilled water is not conductive. The problem is all the minerals and stuff suspended in it conduct electricity. Distilled water has a negative ion charge, so if it comes into contact with loose minerals it will suck them right up and become conductive. If there's enough minerals dissolving into it, it will conduct electricity. But it usually doesn't if the board isn't flaking off or something. Still solvents are better.
It could be the charger doesn't like what the battery is telling it on the data port. There may be reset instructions somewhere on the interwebs or here is a schematic search Ridgid/R840086-87/R840086-R840087 Schematic.pdf
The expensive Powertool batteries used to have a mechanical fuse which would switch in when cooled down. I'm pretty sure they have been replaced with an electronic one...anyone? Bypassing it would be bloody dangerous though. Repair by replacing the parts
The cells were tested ahead of time. I discharge and charge any recycled cells i get and mark the capacity if it is over like 2-300mah different from specification. I do resistance test each cell but as long as they are the same model or chemistry then typically the capacity and resistance are closely related.
Can you not just add the new cells in parallel ?? I am planning to just add the extra cells to the existing cells in parallel. Can't find a video, is it possible ?? I would be keeping the same BMS.
@@omairkhalidmirza you shouldn't due to the fact that the cells are different age, even if they are identical rated capacity, they will have different resistances and they won't charge or discharge the same, it's possible but not the safest, i wouldn't recommend
Your problem with the alcohol is that you bought it from a dollar store. True technical-grade alcohol is at least 99.9% water-free. I've NEVER had a problem with properly sourced tech-grade (or reagent-grade) alcohol.
Do you know what’s causing the battery to shuts off when the battery is under a heavy load? My Ridgid battery shuts off in a fast start. Slow start is fine.
By using the proper bit. LOL. If you can't figure that much out, you probably shouldn't be playing with exposed terminals of highly flammable lithium cells.
Nothing at the dollar store is worth a dollar. Please do nut buy things from the dollar store...especially things that go in or on your body...Being cheap can be very expensive.
Why do you need to repair life time service battery offer from Ridgid??? Totally stupid. Just send dead battery to Ridgid to get new one done. Don't repair by yourself to void the warranty, Everyone should be not follow video to do repair it will void your life time warranty service/
Typically the terms of the warranty include proof of purchase. Not everyone is first generation owners and not everyone will have proof of purchase. There is also the ability to use higher quality cells making a better pack.
@@BattTube I've been struggling to trust websites that sell 18650 battery cells, do you have a trusted website you use? This is the first video that i watched from your channel, are you doing this as a hobby of do you repair electronics?
@@wd9102 and they require you to return the tools and entire package the battery was purchased and registered with...wasnt worth the effort and loss of tools for an indefinite period when my battery failed
Thanks for watching 😎
I have tons of Ridgid batteries but I registered them all for the warranty. I never had any issues yet that would cause me to use the warranty. But I suspect they'll try to make hoops to jump through. Incidentally, I just bought an adapter plate that brings the 18 V out for any use. I am sure Ridgid is happy about that. It is amazing to me how many components they have on the board.
Like any warranty, Yes there is always hoops and they are good at catching you on terms you never expected to exist. No company wants to hand out stuff for free, Even if its their fault lol. Some companies are better than others but its worth researching other peoples experience
I never take time to send in the warranty and they fail alot maybe this winter I can try to repair some.
I just filed for warranty replacement on a battery (first time after several years of use). Process couldn't have been easier, they asked a few simple questions over the phone and are shipping out my new battery. I was having the same issue as the 1.5Ah "new battery" as demonstrated in this video. Battery would take a full charge but just work in any of the tools.
After taking it apart and dry brushing it, it seems to work now... fingers crossed it stays that way
@@nycsheki had a rigid driver and drill set with 2 batteries. Registered it properly. One of the batteries failed. I tried to get it replaced. The company required me to return the entire set, both batteries and both tools for them to honor the warranty. I needed the tools for my job and could not send the tools back and wait....ended up buying a new battery. ...grrrr
Ridgid has entered chat
I was hoping to replace the 18650s in them but damn it might be easier to buy a new set of batteries
I have a video on my channel where i replace the cells in one of these packs. Its not a hard process assuming you have the tools needed, Just be mindful of the possible diameter differences between some 18650s, It can make it a pain like it did in my case.
Battery 1&3: 0 V across the cell pack can also indicate a bad board which has a short, and the cells will accept a forced charge to confirm this.
2nd battery: May not activate charging circuit.
For all these, boards are available direct from Chy-nah for about $12
You can clean a live board with WD-40, the WD means water displacement and the 40 simply enough meant how many tries till they got it right. I actually spray directly into many electronics especially switches and volume, gain, balance ext control knobs that have drop outdoors or squawking when it’s moved. Works amazingly good. Anyway, I doubt that intel would say this is a good method to even be on their boards and might even blame corrosion on them but corrosion stops when I use it on anything small and I am not counting lead battery to battery terminals cause that is simply a lot to ask of anything. It works on AC or DC current equally with AC that’s non capacitive as a capacitor on either can drop that voltage into you easily and it’s dangerous so be sure you properly and safely discharge them with any safe means you can use per that voltage output or a lead from + and - side in some salt water works on anything though can’t trust IMHO because no way to see it escape. Bulbs work well so long as voltage range is met. Lights and dims with draining of capacitor… WD-40 won’t short the capacitor but only said cause for a capacitor to kill you it requires no plug or battery connected at all being a power bank or storage place and unloads all power in fraction of a second making extremely dangerous! Anyway, WD-40 may be something you would like to try. Works serious wonders on electronics and for the record it is not a lubricant at all… thx and keep videos coming, getting better btw…
Your right about that, Many people don't even know the simple meaning of that abbreviation. Yes it is Di-electric and hydrophobic by nature as oil is nonpolar, And it most definately can be "safely" used for cleaning electrical corrosion. I put it it quotations because WD-40 is a solvent loaded with petroleum and some heavy solvents that may not be kind to certain materials. The reason i don't use it for cleaning electronics is due to the lower evaporation rate of WD-40 compared to 100% isopropanol that i typically use (I only had cheap stuff that may have had water). Also, Once the solvents evaporate you are left with the petroleum oils as residue. Thanks for the comment and feedback! Happy days!
alcohol is hygroscopic and holds at least 19% water. use CO2 spray for air flow cleaner for cars. the fact that nothing visibly happened is prob due to themaybe-not-so-bad lacquer insulation on top of the print or the brush didn't hold enough water. thx for the vid!
Best option is to buy non-conductive contact cleaner!
What about low pressure air. I thinkbI would throughly clean it.
Yes Daniel and Rdwyer, I used to use WD40 and air on vehicle ICU's and other electronic modules. As long as the vehicle was never powered on while under water, I had incredibly good luck by blowing off all water, WD40, and the compressed air again. Really must have done it well over 50 times and seldom ever had a failure. But, the vehicle had to be powered off. If someone tried to start a flooded vehicle, then many times it would fry the ECU.
One added note. I would never risk the SRS modules. No air bag modules and no Anti-Lock brake modules. Not worth the risk on those. Too much of a safety liability
Distilled water is not conductive. The problem is all the minerals and stuff suspended in it conduct electricity. Distilled water has a negative ion charge, so if it comes into contact with loose minerals it will suck them right up and become conductive. If there's enough minerals dissolving into it, it will conduct electricity. But it usually doesn't if the board isn't flaking off or something. Still solvents are better.
I personally use electrical contact and spray them
Most Ridgid batteries i seen have bad bms
not worth fixing them
New board is $12. Battery is $90 + tax.
I did this to mine and they now work but still won't charge.
Do you know what the issue could be?
Still trying to determine that one.
It could be the charger doesn't like what the battery is telling it on the data port. There may be reset instructions somewhere on the interwebs or here is a schematic search Ridgid/R840086-87/R840086-R840087 Schematic.pdf
The expensive Powertool batteries used to have a mechanical fuse which would switch in when cooled down. I'm pretty sure they have been replaced with an electronic one...anyone? Bypassing it would be bloody dangerous though.
Repair by replacing the parts
What happened to the 9 amp hour Octane ?
Can't open mine up but the broken one vibrates when tapped. Sounds like a tuning fork
Is there a reason that you did not test each cell?
The cells were tested ahead of time. I discharge and charge any recycled cells i get and mark the capacity if it is over like 2-300mah different from specification. I do resistance test each cell but as long as they are the same model or chemistry then typically the capacity and resistance are closely related.
Can you not just add the new cells in parallel ??
I am planning to just add the extra cells to the existing cells in parallel. Can't find a video, is it possible ?? I would be keeping the same BMS.
@@omairkhalidmirza you shouldn't due to the fact that the cells are different age, even if they are identical rated capacity, they will have different resistances and they won't charge or discharge the same, it's possible but not the safest, i wouldn't recommend
I got a few batteries I've been wanting to troubleshoot. Where are you located? Maybe you can use them to make some new content.
I'm guessing from the accent he's in Canada. Eh?
Not every component on the circuit board is a resistor
Your problem with the alcohol is that you bought it from a dollar store. True technical-grade alcohol is at least 99.9% water-free. I've NEVER had a problem with properly sourced tech-grade (or reagent-grade) alcohol.
Yes obviously 🙄
Where did you get the scrapped batteries from? Cool video
Do you know what’s causing the battery to shuts off when the battery is under a heavy load? My Ridgid battery shuts off in a fast start. Slow start is fine.
i know this is 2 years late byt does it only happen while the batts are cold?
@@nolan7457 Any temperature condition it turns off. I replaced it new batteries and it didn’t fix. PCB it was.
How do you take out rigid screws they have a metal bit in the middle of the star bit
Security torx bits
By using the proper bit. LOL. If you can't figure that much out, you probably shouldn't be playing with exposed terminals of highly flammable lithium cells.
Clean it with moonshine.
Qué voltajes debe de haber en los terminales de en medio?
Nothing at the dollar store is worth a dollar. Please do nut buy things from the dollar store...especially things that go in or on your body...Being cheap can be very expensive.
trashed and bought Makita products!
Why do you need to repair life time service battery offer from Ridgid??? Totally stupid. Just send dead battery to Ridgid to get new one done. Don't repair by yourself to void the warranty, Everyone should be not follow video to do repair it will void your life time warranty service/
Typically the terms of the warranty include proof of purchase. Not everyone is first generation owners and not everyone will have proof of purchase. There is also the ability to use higher quality cells making a better pack.
@@BattTube I've been struggling to trust websites that sell 18650 battery cells, do you have a trusted website you use? This is the first video that i watched from your channel, are you doing this as a hobby of do you repair electronics?
@@BattTube they do not ask you for proof of purchase. It just has to be registered for the lifetime service and check the serial number
@@wd9102 and they require you to return the tools and entire package the battery was purchased and registered with...wasnt worth the effort and loss of tools for an indefinite period when my battery failed
@@wd9102not true