Love the comment on using coal cinders from steam engines for ballast. The KCS used cinders from Kansas City Power and Light’s steam powered generators for ballast in their East Kansas City and Knoche yards...
I love your willingness to share your knowledge about real railroads. It really makes the hobby much more interesting. Your temperament and general approach makes me feel that it is okay to make a mistake. Thanks for being so supportive-even if you don’t know that you are being supportive. You are encouraging me to be adventurous and carefree about enjoying the hobby. I look forward to your next video.
So true about the concrete. The Detroit, Toledo, and Ironton Railway’s concrete catenary towers, built by Henry Ford 100 years ago, are still there from Allen Park to Penford Junction. NS trains still run under them.
Here's a tip for the next time you need a short incline, like what you have from the main down into your yard. Rather than using the foam putty, simply extend your cork-roadbed and then sand away the incline with sandpaper. Not only is it easier to keep the roadbed smooth & level, but you can also sand in the vertical curves. For a smooth transition from flat to incline.
Good tips and demonstration. I have used spackle, soil, local beach sand, and even framing shims to build up under flex. The great beauty of flex track is that it creates its own easements horizontally, and if one lets it sag naturally it forms a good vertical curve or gradient up to the main grade level where an interchange or a spur meets. For me, with any amount of beach sand I need, I just shake enough sand under the rails until it grooms to the correct shape and until the rails appear to be well supported. Then, wet it with alcohol, add a light glue/water mix with two drops of dish detergent added, and walk away for about a day to let the mass dry and harden. Works like a hot damn.
Thanks for the video! Each of them really is helping me see my old layout in a new perspective and is helping me figure out how to rehab it in the future. Thanks!
A lot of the old North Shore Line in NE Illinios and SE Wisconsin has been converted to bike trails. It is still possible to see the footings for the framework that held up the overhead wires. There are even abandoned power houses still standing along the right-of-way. Infact some of the North Shore right-of-way was still actively in railroad use up to the early 2000s just north of where it interchanged with what was the old C&NW K-D line. This section of line bisected a large industrial facility.
Hi DJ, In the past when transitioning from main line to branch, I just filled up the air gap between the ties and layout with real rock ballast, either Arizona Rock & Minerals or Smith & Son ballast, both products are great. The secret is getting the ballast very wet with the isopropyl alcohol, you do not want any dry spots. Then flood the ballast with the 3:1 white glue mix as you show in the video and let dry a minimum of 24 hours. I'm telling you DJ, you've got to try Smith & Son or Arizona Rock & Minerals real rock ballast. You'll never go back to Woodland scenics clay ballast. I know exactly what you mean about branch lines, hence my Long Valley Branch, which is loosely based on a number of branch lines in the area. My first encounter with a branch line was the Bridgeville & McDonald branch of the Penn Central railroad. That branch line ran between Bridgeville and Gladden, near my grandparents home. Watching those PC Geeps working that branch left a lasting impression. On a side note, I finally got a backdrop for the layout. It's just temporarily attached to the wall, until I'm able to get some hardboard and attach it permanently to the layout. What a difference, I'll post a short video to show the difference. Cheers, Rich S.
Did you see CP 7017 when it came through McKeesport? My dad sees you guys all of the time because he works in McKeesport. I love your videos. Keep up the great work and stay safe!
Great series. The Woodland Scenics Foam Putty is great stuff. I use it for paving roads and find it handles easier than plaster. Looking forward to the next video.
Hey, I recognize where that train is crossing near the end of the video. That's right down the road from me. Very rare to catch a train crossing there anymore.
That foam stuff looks interesting. I just did a road with sculptamold as the base and then skim coated it with plaster, but that foam looks like it would have been quicker/simpler. -Heath
They used cinders on main lines to. The PRR that went to Rochester was cinders and volcanic ballast, so was the B&O's ex-BR&P, etc. If you go deep enough you will find cinders on every line, they are just buried under decades of railroads dumping new ballast on top.
DJ, next time you have to fill the gap from roadbed to plywood, try using wood shims. They carry them in the home improvement stores. The sims are normally used when carpenters set door and window frames but make a great incline/decline roadbed, especially in N-scale.
Try using wooden furniture shims. They are a softwood, wedge shaped. About six inches long, and can be easily trimmed for correct width and for which heights of the shim you need!
here is another tip .. go to homedepot an grab yourself a piece if 1/4 white plastic (usually by paneling isle ) . its like 20 $ for a 24"/48". i cut them with a band saw or table saw or a plan old knife . can screw them down an use what your using 222 lite from value home center .take a little scrap piece an scrap it off just like you do concrete after it dries take off forms .
Oh man, you got my juices flowing now! Gotta get that transition to siding done. That foam putty looks like the way to go. Thanks!
Love the comment on using coal cinders from steam engines for ballast. The KCS used cinders from Kansas City Power and Light’s steam powered generators for ballast in their East Kansas City and Knoche yards...
I love your willingness to share your knowledge about real railroads. It really makes the hobby much more interesting. Your temperament and general approach makes me feel that it is okay to make a mistake. Thanks for being so supportive-even if you don’t know that you are being supportive. You are encouraging me to be adventurous and carefree about enjoying the hobby. I look forward to your next video.
That was one of the best things I have read, and is motivating me to make more videos. I am extremely grateful for your support.
So true about the concrete. The Detroit, Toledo, and Ironton Railway’s concrete catenary towers, built by Henry Ford 100 years ago, are still there from Allen Park to Penford Junction. NS trains still run under them.
Great stuff. Improvising your layout scenery is what model RR is all about. -Tim
Here's a tip for the next time you need a short incline, like what you have from the main down into your yard.
Rather than using the foam putty, simply extend your cork-roadbed and then sand away the incline with sandpaper. Not only is it easier to keep the roadbed smooth & level, but you can also sand in the vertical curves. For a smooth transition from flat to incline.
Nice DJ, like how you threw out the garbage.
You can use a homemade piping bag like they use to decorate cakes. The tips use different sizes of copper or brass tubes. To lay your putty.
That is really clever. But now I am craving cake.
Good tips and demonstration. I have used spackle, soil, local beach sand, and even framing shims to build up under flex. The great beauty of flex track is that it creates its own easements horizontally, and if one lets it sag naturally it forms a good vertical curve or gradient up to the main grade level where an interchange or a spur meets. For me, with any amount of beach sand I need, I just shake enough sand under the rails until it grooms to the correct shape and until the rails appear to be well supported. Then, wet it with alcohol, add a light glue/water mix with two drops of dish detergent added, and walk away for about a day to let the mass dry and harden. Works like a hot damn.
Love shortlines!! 😊❤😊❤😊
Outstanding video! Thanks!
Great work on the ballast. I work with ho and I cant imagine foing n scale lol
Tell me about it
Thanks for the video! Each of them really is helping me see my old layout in a new perspective and is helping me figure out how to rehab it in the future. Thanks!
Glad to help!
Love this video, DJ. Easy and informative. Thank You Bruce in Minnesota.
Glad you enjoyed it
A lot of the old North Shore Line in NE Illinios and SE Wisconsin has been converted to bike trails. It is still possible to see the footings for the framework that held up the overhead wires. There are even abandoned power houses still standing along the right-of-way.
Infact some of the North Shore right-of-way was still actively in railroad use up to the early 2000s just north of where it interchanged with what was the old C&NW K-D line. This section of line bisected a large industrial facility.
I always wondered what to do with my broken stuff and you answered my questions just leave it by the track 👍
Hi DJ, In the past when transitioning from main line to branch, I just filled up the air gap between the ties and layout with real rock ballast, either Arizona Rock & Minerals or Smith & Son ballast, both products are great. The secret is getting the ballast very wet with the isopropyl alcohol, you do not want any dry spots. Then flood the ballast with the 3:1 white glue mix as you show in the video and let dry a minimum of 24 hours. I'm telling you DJ, you've got to try Smith & Son or Arizona Rock & Minerals real rock ballast. You'll never go back to Woodland scenics clay ballast. I know exactly what you mean about branch lines, hence my Long Valley Branch, which is loosely based on a number of branch lines in the area. My first encounter with a branch line was the Bridgeville & McDonald branch of the Penn Central railroad. That branch line ran between Bridgeville and Gladden, near my grandparents home. Watching those PC Geeps working that branch left a lasting impression. On a side note, I finally got a backdrop for the layout. It's just temporarily attached to the wall, until I'm able to get some hardboard and attach it permanently to the layout. What a difference, I'll post a short video to show the difference. Cheers, Rich S.
Did you see CP 7017 when it came through McKeesport? My dad sees you guys all of the time because he works in McKeesport. I love your videos. Keep up the great work and stay safe!
these side rails are very cool and the footage you show help us see the real world
thanks a lot
Glad you enjoyed!
Great series. The Woodland Scenics Foam Putty is great stuff. I use it for paving roads and find it handles easier than plaster. Looking forward to the next video.
Great point!
Just started building my 2x12 layout, oval with a line down the center for the industries.
Hey, I recognize where that train is crossing near the end of the video. That's right down the road from me. Very rare to catch a train crossing there anymore.
I agree. It was one of those "Let me pull over real quick" moments, lol
i love little details like this!
That foam stuff looks interesting. I just did a road with sculptamold as the base and then skim coated it with plaster, but that foam looks like it would have been quicker/simpler. -Heath
They used cinders on main lines to. The PRR that went to Rochester was cinders and volcanic ballast, so was the B&O's ex-BR&P, etc. If you go deep enough you will find cinders on every line, they are just buried under decades of railroads dumping new ballast on top.
DJ, next time you have to fill the gap from roadbed to plywood, try using wood shims. They carry them in the home improvement stores. The sims are normally used when carpenters set door and window frames but make a great incline/decline roadbed, especially in N-scale.
but this is a curved incline so those shims wouldn't work as well.
Try using wooden furniture shims. They are a softwood, wedge shaped. About six inches long, and can be easily trimmed for correct width and for which heights of the shim you need!
I use them on straight aways, but this was curved.
Thanks for sharing Jack 👍👍👍
My pleasure!!
Nice video DJ👍🏼 . I used to tinker with H.O. when I was younger, I need to get back into it, would be a great hobby for the winter months
You should!
here is another tip .. go to homedepot an grab yourself a piece if 1/4 white plastic (usually by paneling isle ) . its like 20 $ for a 24"/48". i cut them with a band saw or table saw or a plan old knife . can screw them down an use what your using 222 lite from value home center .take a little scrap piece an scrap it off just like you do concrete after it dries take off forms .
Wow...awesome how to.. thanks for sharing and keep up the great work... Lance
Thanks for watching!
Thanks. Keep 'em coming!
Will do!
Learning a lot of neat tips DJ, & being educated on railroad practices as well, take care buddy, be looking for your next vid.😎👍👍👍🚂🛤
Awesome thank you!
Well explained. Great video!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video DJ. Cheers 🍻
Thank you! Cheers!
Hi, nicely done. See ya next time.
Thanks 👍
Well, I did not know about the cinders... Let's just say that all the transition era railroads had ballast in house.
Great video very informative I use sheet balsa wood for grade transitions works ok for me I’m redoing my whole table only 4 by 8 your videos are great
Nice layout❤❤❤❤👍👍👍👍
Thanks for watching
Your welcome👍👍👍❤❤❤
Changing elevation wise...why not use Shims? Wooden shims are pretty cheap.
Nice vid.
Do you think the RR would mind if you snatched up one of those discarded signals to put in your back yard?
Haha. I have a very small backyard, so it would shine in my window and make me feel as if I was still at work, lol. All yours!
Cool !
Didn’t know about WS foam putty...have you/can it be used it for roads?
yes
Great video dude just great (:
Glad you enjoyed
Nice
Thanks
good stuff
Good video
Glad you enjoyed
In the intro it says part 4 and in the title part 5?
Great video still!
I know, I messed up but it was already uploaded. Its part 5.
Looks good but that road looks to small for the cars 🚗
single lane each direction for Main Street, one way for the hill st