The amount of effort you out in to your channel is brilliant. 30 minute video! God knows the hours of filming and editing went into this. Thanks for the entertainment. Appreciated, thumbs up.
Looks great to me. Semi retired Master electrician in Kansas 52 years. I liked that trim edging you used Very good planning, looks very nice. You guys do things a little different but good craftsmanship is still the same.
Agreed Jerry... I watch a lot of videos from your side of the pond also (worked in wisconsin for 4 yrs)... The panels in North America are MUCH better, roomier to work in.
The "Fire Escape" had me dead :D So much effort because of someones random comment :D About the 1.5mm for the induction hob. In Denmark we would pull a 3P+N+PE 2.5mm cable to the hob from the circut board, which is protected by 16A fuses, the cable can hold about 18A'ish and the 1.5mm can hold about 18.5A and on 2P the hob doesnt use 16A. But we have 3P+N installations and generally dont use higher than 2.5mm in house installations (except central heating systems and car chargers and so on, where we usually never go over 6mm.
I've just fitted a 7kW induction hob, and with diversity, 16m of cable and clipped direct across the loft space and down a wall with no insulation, I calculated and installed 4mm T&E on a 32A RCBO. With a clamp metre it drew the maximum of 7kW when boiling two pans of water for no more than 60 seconds before the temp control cut in, so diversity works. Yes, if at any point there was insulation involved I would have had to go up to 6mil. 7kW = 30A, div = 10A + 7A = 17A, 4mm T&E clipped = 37A
When you are joining the Worktops together you need a completely dust free environment and then when you add the glue and start sanding down you’re going from 500 grit to 5000 grit. It’s incredible to see it completed like i do with the commercial kitchens we fit weekly so completely understand people being amazed by it
Absolutely bloody brilliant video as usual. I have never laughed so hard as when you were trying to get out of the window. I would love to see the full footage that Camera Guy shot doing that segment.
Haha nice demo on the apparent fire escape ! JCC v50s are good been using them for a short while with no issues. Greenbrook LED fittings are brilliant, used them for almost 3 years and had 1 faulty one. And I have also used Ansel LED downlights, again good products and never had a faulty one. I tend to only use Ansel when it comes to LED fittings due to never having had an issue. JCC for downlights only, because of cost. I personally don't like the can fittings, great if you want your own lamps in but the cans may not give the air space the GU10 lamps need to last its expected life. There is a reason the LED fittings have huge heat sinks on, and a drive larger than the normal size GU10 lamp. I had the same thoughts with the hob I fitted last week! Came with a similar flex.
Watched your channel for a while now try not to worry about the negative comments it’s nice to see someone taking pride in their work! Everyone has there own ways of doing things but I think some people criticise when there’s no reason to
Around 15:30 the squeeze through the window That shit had me in stitches mate. What a knob gobbler that second guy commenting on the op's post about the zip ties.
Good point about files. As my Engineering apprentice instructor and Toolroom Forman told me many years ago. Files are only designed to cut on the forward stoke, they lifted off the work piece as you bring the file back to the start point of stroke.
It is actually quite easy, it is the same way we do it here in Germany. The power for the whole kitchen cooker is divided on three phases. L1 and L2 are for the cooking plates, L3 is the baking oven. Every line is fused with 16 A, and for 16 A the 1.5mm² is perfectly fine. But the cables used for the connection between the fuse board and the outlet is at least a 5G2.5mm². The three phase 16 A connection is enough for round about 11 kW. On single phase I personally wouldn't use that cable. The thing is the lines would be big enough, but the neutral is not. In a three phase installation only the differential current flows through the neutral so the current on it will be not higher than 16 A. For example you draw 16 A out of L1 and 16 A out of L2, nothing from L3 the current flowing through the neutral will be 16 A. If you draw 8 A out of every of the three lines, then the current flowing through the neutral is exactly zero.
This is the magic of 120° phase shift three phase power. When I first understood it, why the neutrals can have the same cross section as the phases, it blew my mind.
PMSL absolutely spot on Tom, you cant fix stupid unfortunatley. Fire escape thats right next tp air con unit on to a enclosed area. Keep doing what your doing fella.
Hi Thomas, big fan of your channel and your content and how you "keep it real". I only discovered your channel a few weeks back when I was looking for some background practical info on an electrical job. I've learnt a lot of different pieces of information from you all of which are really useful and wish you all the continued success. It's great to see how your content has evolved and your business, so congratulations again. Anyway, it looks like I can give back here so here goes re integrated spotlight fittings (which you've also mentioned in the past having issues with). Basically, I design and build smart tech homes for many years and we inevitably installing many type of premium light fittings/systems. An integrated spotlight from a top manufacturer is by far a technically superior lighting product in many different ways but essentially in the quality of light output and longevity. However, Enlite which is owned by Aurora and many other brands sold by these big chain merchants are not very good hence cheap. Basically, if you use a technically superior spotlight product from the likes of ALL LED, Collingwood, etc. you will not have come backs like you've been experiencing and in terms of lighting quality are far superior. The only brand which over the years have caused considerable issues as we've been using LED spots on our projects for over 10 years were from Aurora and Enlite IMO are a cheaper trade version of them. Hope this helps mate.
26:50 - Gotta remember when you've got say, 1m of copper stranded flex there's about 12 or so strands, in parallel, significantly reducing the resistance of the cable, this goes even further if you double the cores up. I work making offshore marine cables (well, furloughed at the moment) and for power cores we typically double up 20AWG (about 6mm^2) cores for ground and live (red/black because DC), on higher current cables. I wouldn't do it for a HV Sonar Boomer plate (those use 30mm^2 conductors with giant crimps and a soldering iron the size of my hand to put those crimps on), but for say, 60A feeding a Magnetometer via a tow cable, it works quite well. Data we double up to reduce loop attenuation and increase the SNR margin (signal-noise ratio)..though Offshore marine and Oil & Gas are still using COM ports, RS232 and RS485. Your work looks as good as my dad's does (he's a sparky as well).
Hi-Tuff sure is what it's name suggests. Dug up (with a mini digger!) the supply to my septic system (wanker spark put the cable 200mm below the lawn with no warning tape) anyway, dug it up, cable was undamaged. It pulled it out of the consumer unit, that stuff is damn strong :)
With respect to the window, Approved document B 0(B1 for dwellinghouses) places a constraint on what can be considered an "emergency escape window"; section 2.8 (a) clarifies this. "The window should have an *unobstructed openable area* that is at least 0.33 m^2 wide that is *also* at least 450mm wide and 450mm high". Considering the window is tiny as fuck (clearly less than half a metre high) and the window is obstructed by the external paving, I'd say this isn't an emergency escape option. Some people are clearly lacking in the common sense department and let their fingers, rather than their brain, do the talking. I think your demonstration was sufficient to show common sense usually prevails in these situations. Source: ADB B1, am fire safety consultant. Great vid as always Tom!
If you get some 20/25mm female brass bushes it looks nice and also gives a round over to help stop any potential snagging on the cable insulation. Great job 👍🏻
I always file toward the work piece. Filing, as you show @ 5:21, away from the piece puts an edge, like sharpening a blade. Turning *either* the piece or the file around, you will remove any burr instead of creating one. Remember, the purpose of filing after cutting is to reduce the likelihood of someone being cut.
10:00 Hi-Tuf (spelling) versus normal flex. Maybe the hi-tuf is good for external exposure, whereas maybe the normal flex is only for internal use. Beware of exposure to the outside elements, such as UV which can degrade many plastics.
Well said. Its the external sheathing that is resistance to UV rays. Not only that but the cable looks horrible when it has been neaten by uv rays if not uv resistant.
@Thomas Nagy, May I just say, with it being Christmas Eve here in New Zealand, I wish yourself, Dave, Laura and the Camera Guy a happy and safe festive season! Thanks for the awesome content this year that we have all watched and enjoyed. Hopefully there aren't too many call-outs over this time. Have a good one!
I'd personally always recommend to the customer the LED lights are garbage and will eventually fail. Then if you have to go back and fit them new ones charge them the whole price for lights and labour. Its their risk and they should listen to someone who's been in the trade so long to tell them their rubbish. Great video!
your not wrong their, there is so much bull shit with led stuff, people are told they will last forever, which is rubbish, and dont get me started on trying to dim the bloody things, its so hit and miss. They are not the holy grail that people think they are.
15:50 - after demonstrating that it's not a fire escape, camera switch to inside view had me lol 😂😂😀👍 Yeah integrated LED light is a no no, I agreed and I rather stick to GU10 LED.
Think i would have ditched the tray and done the whole lot in the same trunking you've used for the dis board, legrand salamander also has far nicer buckles. 👌 AC guys like it because they don't have to make off a gland!, they also use SY cable then never use the correct glands one stuffer and a bit of tape around the braid.
When I did Engineering at college we were taught to file on the push stroke of a file to get a better finish and less chance of damaging thin items. Also when filing thin stuff clamp it as close to the edge as possible or use a wooden baton to reduce its flex. Got the same table and got it mainly for the clamping method!!
Love your real world sarcasm as ever Tom - the 'fire escape' had me in stitches !! Fixed LED's - I've done the opposite (though probably worked out similar value) and we, as Sparks, still lose out i.e customer pays for replacements after warranty but I've fitted FOC as a gesture of goodwill.
To go on about the all in one downlights, id say its rather simple. Nothing in this world nowadays is designed to outlast its warranty period. Id say you still should have charged for the material and work. As long as you done your work correctly then its not your fault the lights broke, especially if you suggested to get standard downlights and they wanted the all in ones. About the trunking, i only finished serving my time a few years ago, and when i was at college learning to do metal conduit, trunking, plastic etc etc, except from once where they showed us to do a 45 on some 50x50 trunking, we pretty much only got shown how to use manufactured bends. Pretty much told the building world is a perfect place, where all walls are square and straight, no plumbing will ever be in your way, and you can just use manufactured for everything. When i started working on sites, in old buildings etc etc i tell you it was a massive shock of a difference
The inclosed spot lights we use here in Norway has great quality! Minimum 5 years warranty and best ones has 10 years warranty! We have used these for probably 8 years and we have very few cases where we have to go back!
The provided flex for the hob does look like it‘s originally intended for a three phase supply and the single phase usage is an afterthought, which would make sense for a Miele device, because Miele is German and in Germany hobs are typically connected to a three phase 16a breaker wich would both fit the 11kw and 1.5mm2 wire.
Hi Tom, I know what your saying about the LED sealed fittings. I always fit the GU10 fire rated spots then the customer can change there own lamp when required. I have the same problem with domestic flood lights, after 12 months most fail and the customer can’t understand why the lamp can’t be replaced.
And some hobs self limit power draw. It's amazing there is no distance for the tap, Aus Standards go into massive detail around wet areas and water holding v essiles.
@@ratchet1freak They pretty much have the same thing here with earth leakage protection. No the reg's here actually do have distances and wet zones for kitchen sinks amongst other things.
Maybe the hob flex is really meant for a 3x16A 3phase 230/400V socket like we have in NL and adopted mindlessly to single phase. Then blue is neutral and brown,grey,black are phases 120 degrees shifted. However I would not connect more than 5kW to 2 single/same phase 1.5mm² tbh.
Just started watching your vids mate, pretty entertaining as well as informative. Your work looks pretty neat to me. Even the best electricians in the world are constantly learning. I know plenty of Irish Pixies who would definitely fit through that "fire escape" though. Brilliant
I installed over 140 Recessed 4inch on a new job and customer called and said all of the lights arent working. Turned out around 90 of them were bad. We had a big wind storm and the downed power lines most likely caused a surge and cooked all the led drivers. Took almost 2 days of removing the bad ones and chipping out the spray foam insulation on the 2nd floor to get the junction boxes out. Long story short now I install SPD devices in all my jobs now. 2020 NEC code in the U.S. now requires SPD's in all new residential construction anyway so Hopefully that will better protect that from happening again. Fortunately the homeowner was on the same page about what happened with the Recess lights. So I just charged him T&M@ cost to get everything back up and running. Also I've had several of them burn out before theyr expected lifespan in a 1 year block at several different locations. I'm wondering if the manufacturer was using a different driver in that time because it hasnt happened in about 3 years since then.. So its always a good idea to buy a few extra and keep them on hand. I use the lotus brand. Always go by the manufacturer's specs when fitting dimmers. They do all the testing and list all compatible devices to work with their products the best. Great channel Tom! Cheers
I nearly always put cans in for exactly that reason. A bulb goes, most customers can change it themselves or it will take seconds to replace. The only two reasons I would fit an all in one unit is limited cavity space or the wider beam angle is needed.
Hi Tom, I always fit cans and GU10 led lamps.I never touch enclosed led fittings. And I've actually got to the stage that I get the customer to supply all other led fittings like floodlights or counter lighting, etc. such is the failure rate of these fittings.
Well high tough can be used outside and is extremely good protected against water ingress. Additionally there's quite some vibrations on the AC units, by fans and compressors. Normal cables might rub through if not suspended carefully.
I'd be taking those lights back to whoever I bought them from and kicking off to get replacements. Falling far short of Sold As Described Functions for A Reasonable Time regardless of 1 Year warranty.
I've been pulled up for making my own bend on a job ,75 x75 galv ,said edges could snag cables ,all of 6x 2.5 cables in trunking (singles) and no more cables will ever be installed.upshot ,had to change out for gusset bend ! One point on your install female bushes? How about cross bonding trunking?
Hi tom, sparky from Newcastle, I fit the integral led downlights, which are an enclosed fitting with a 3 year guarantee, very reasonable price and a very good light 👍👍👍
Hi-tuff cable is basically the same thing as another type of cable used in the States called tray cable. It has different ratings/use cases, but essentially the main feature is indeed impact resistance, and in many cases also UV & moisture resistance if it transitions to the outdoors. The UV stability and impact resistance is why the HVAC fitters are so up on the Hi-tuff. Oh, and of course, they can just run it into a regular stuffing gland. So fast terminations.
Hi Tom - ref' the LED lifespan. I am not an electrician but we do work with intelligent Poe lighting in my role. Often manufacturers brand the long life span of the LED's and are often correct. However the internal circuitry / drivers that often reside in the unit do not like the heat and its these components that fail (whilst the LED itself probably does still work although it will never light!) cutting edge Poe LED lighting uses rack mount highly reliable drivers (visually looks like a network switch) to power completely dumb diodes which are super reliable in comparison.
With the 11kw cable it's V×R=I so with that diameter and length you get a resistance value match it with the mains voltage and you get the cables max handling value so that appliance could be run on that cabke no problem at all but only that small run of 2 metres any longer and it will get heat problems so the 10mm is needed to bridge the gap of whatever is needed to keep the overall resistance low, so really it's the minimum copper diameter the manufacturer can give for the power handling and the length of 2 metres is chosen as the max mounting cable needed for most houses all for cost in the end it won't be in the box at all.
Hi Tom, you made the point about the cable supplied with the induction hob. Back in the early 2000's I fitted a Tritan show for my boss at the time, sorry but I can't remember all the details. However, we noticed on the paperwork that came with the unit a list of installation options, one of which was to use 2.5mm cables. we looked at the reg's and did the mathes and yes you can do a show fit with 2.5mm cable but it would be completely unreasonable to do so. I think we worked it out to something like 2 to 3 ft cable run, surface mount etc. I wander if the hab manufacturer tried to cheat the reg's as triton did. P,S, nice work with the trunking around the consumer unit.
I have same problems with wireless alarm system batteries . Told last for years and behold they fail after 15 months with normal use. So sometimes I give new ones. I try and teach customers to change there own batteries, on motion detectors and some devices. Nice watching you Tom. Good vids.
The fire escape was amazing 😂 “ rrrrrright lets give it a go” . You should do a doing it with Tom series on that sort of stuff where common sense clearly comes into play over a regulation
4mm or 6mm Ho7 for hob fitting depending on Kw. Always bin the super short 1.5mm x2 flex supplied with appliance. Garage tray / trunking and boards look nice 👍🏻
Long reach bushes with a locknut as a spacer and a locknut for securing board. Acts as secondary equipotential bond too. Use Galv spray or Zinc Spray for Cut Ends Please.
Top job fella! Next time try using female bushes after the lock ring to cap off the end of male bush nicely leaving a smooth rounded edge, perfect for pulling cables through avoiding any damage to the insulation. Keep up the good work!
Fit the fire rated ansell downlights. Csn get ip20 or ip65 for bathrooms and they're pushing. 76mm cutout. They're so good and unbelievably quick to fit
The reference to the lights : you write it into your bill/warranty. All Luminaries are limited to a 1 year guarantee regardless of manufacturers estimated life span.
Tom - with the flourescent strips in the garage there, why did you not look at 600x600 or 1200x600 modular LED Panels in a surface mount package? TLC do them - look at LT SP70DL for a 1200x600. They are super slim and would allow the customer a bit more headroom.
With the earth fly lead thing, I still prefer to do it because the screws won't earth it when you have the plate off and you might not be able to isolate it for whatever reason. The likelihood of the fly lead being useful increases significantly if something goes wrong while the plate is unscrewed and live.
But I guess the argument is under no circumstances should you be working live (I know this is unrealistic) You’re right but technically you don’t need to fly lead
I tend to fit collingwood pro downlights & very little problems, I think they also come with a a 5 or 7 year warranty, their pricey but you get what you pay for. Not sure on the reg but tray needs to b earthed if T&E is installed but not if SWA is installed.
Alot of people wire stuff as constant loads. Only water heaters are treated so. If you work it out 4mm is more than enough. 11000:240=45.8A as per onside guide page 123 take first 10A + 30% of remainder= 20.8A After applying diversity your hob would need 20.8A 10mm a bit overkill i think.
In Sweden we use 99.9999% spotlights with fixed LED light source in. I use Zebra Downlight Light 6.5W Dimwarm. Don't know if you get them in the UK, but can recommend them if you get them. Have never had any problem with them. 🇸🇪😊
Hi Tom, can you not use longer screws for the sockets in the kitchen? You can get the really long ones and then cut them down to size the sockets may still sit a little proud of the upstand but at least they will be screwed in place?
Noticed the wink and the end of a sentence. I do that a lot myself. I work with a guy that hates it, lol. I always wink at him when I get him to answer his own questions. lol
I love it when Tom starts a sentence with "I do understand....". Its usually a precurser to something politely passive agressive :)
The amount of effort you out in to your channel is brilliant. 30 minute video! God knows the hours of filming and editing went into this.
Thanks for the entertainment. Appreciated, thumbs up.
Looks great to me. Semi retired Master electrician in Kansas 52 years. I liked that trim edging you used Very good planning, looks very nice. You guys do things a little different but good craftsmanship is still the same.
Agreed Jerry... I watch a lot of videos from your side of the pond also (worked in wisconsin for 4 yrs)...
The panels in North America are MUCH better, roomier to work in.
The "Fire Escape" had me dead :D So much effort because of someones random comment :D
About the 1.5mm for the induction hob. In Denmark we would pull a 3P+N+PE 2.5mm cable to the hob from the circut board, which is protected by 16A fuses, the cable can hold about 18A'ish and the 1.5mm can hold about 18.5A and on 2P the hob doesnt use 16A. But we have 3P+N installations and generally dont use higher than 2.5mm in house installations (except central heating systems and car chargers and so on, where we usually never go over 6mm.
Same here in the Nederlands 3+n+pe
As I have an EV, I would love a 3P + N + PE supply.
I was always taught to put the bottom piece as the full width and the sides shorter as this stops lids sliding down
I've just fitted a 7kW induction hob, and with diversity, 16m of cable and clipped direct across the loft space and down a wall with no insulation, I calculated and installed 4mm T&E on a 32A RCBO. With a clamp metre it drew the maximum of 7kW when boiling two pans of water for no more than 60 seconds before the temp control cut in, so diversity works. Yes, if at any point there was insulation involved I would have had to go up to 6mil. 7kW = 30A, div = 10A + 7A = 17A, 4mm T&E clipped = 37A
Top quality Tom, people forget about the actual skills and knowledge required to do certain installs.
When you are joining the Worktops together you need a completely dust free environment and then when you add the glue and start sanding down you’re going from 500 grit to 5000 grit. It’s incredible to see it completed like i do with the commercial kitchens we fit weekly so completely understand people being amazed by it
Absolutely bloody brilliant video as usual. I have never laughed so hard as when you were trying to get out of the window. I would love to see the full footage that Camera Guy shot doing that segment.
drill a 3mm hole in the back box, threading tool to tap a thread, extension screws... job done (works perfectly on back boxes with missing lugs also)
Haha nice demo on the apparent fire escape !
JCC v50s are good been using them for a short while with no issues. Greenbrook LED fittings are brilliant, used them for almost 3 years and had 1 faulty one. And I have also used Ansel LED downlights, again good products and never had a faulty one. I tend to only use Ansel when it comes to LED fittings due to never having had an issue. JCC for downlights only, because of cost.
I personally don't like the can fittings, great if you want your own lamps in but the cans may not give the air space the GU10 lamps need to last its expected life. There is a reason the LED fittings have huge heat sinks on, and a drive larger than the normal size GU10 lamp.
I had the same thoughts with the hob I fitted last week! Came with a similar flex.
Watched your channel for a while now try not to worry about the negative comments it’s nice to see someone taking pride in their work! Everyone has there own ways of doing things but I think some people criticise when there’s no reason to
The original and still the best.staight talking and no bull .keep them coming
Around 15:30 the squeeze through the window
That shit had me in stitches mate. What a knob gobbler that second guy commenting on the op's post about the zip ties.
Always spin a lock ring in for a spacer, it saves a world of pain!! Splendid job sir!
Good point about files. As my Engineering apprentice instructor and Toolroom Forman told me many years ago. Files are only designed to cut on the forward stoke, they lifted off the work piece as you bring the file back to the start point of stroke.
It is actually quite easy, it is the same way we do it here in Germany. The power for the whole kitchen cooker is divided on three phases. L1 and L2 are for the cooking plates, L3 is the baking oven. Every line is fused with 16 A, and for 16 A the 1.5mm² is perfectly fine. But the cables used for the connection between the fuse board and the outlet is at least a 5G2.5mm².
The three phase 16 A connection is enough for round about 11 kW.
On single phase I personally wouldn't use that cable. The thing is the lines would be big enough, but the neutral is not. In a three phase installation only the differential current flows through the neutral so the current on it will be not higher than 16 A. For example you draw 16 A out of L1 and 16 A out of L2, nothing from L3 the current flowing through the neutral will be 16 A. If you draw 8 A out of every of the three lines, then the current flowing through the neutral is exactly zero.
This is the magic of 120° phase shift three phase power. When I first understood it, why the neutrals can have the same cross section as the phases, it blew my mind.
1.5 on a 16A? You’ll lose your licence for that over here in the U.K. lol 1.5 can generally only handle up to 10A
Regulations different over there?
PMSL absolutely spot on Tom, you cant fix stupid unfortunatley. Fire escape thats right next tp air con unit on to a enclosed area. Keep doing what your doing fella.
I’ve fitted 30 robus fully incapacitated in my bungalow four years ago no problems so far, nice job on the board Dave will be proud 😂
That fire-escape tryout was EPIC!! Why do only you do something that funny???? :D Merry Christmas!
No qualms here Tom, top job, your customer should be immensely proud of the standard and quality of work.
Hi Thomas, big fan of your channel and your content and how you "keep it real". I only discovered your channel a few weeks back when I was looking for some background practical info on an electrical job. I've learnt a lot of different pieces of information from you all of which are really useful and wish you all the continued success. It's great to see how your content has evolved and your business, so congratulations again. Anyway, it looks like I can give back here so here goes re integrated spotlight fittings (which you've also mentioned in the past having issues with). Basically, I design and build smart tech homes for many years and we inevitably installing many type of premium light fittings/systems. An integrated spotlight from a top manufacturer is by far a technically superior lighting product in many different ways but essentially in the quality of light output and longevity. However, Enlite which is owned by Aurora and many other brands sold by these big chain merchants are not very good hence cheap. Basically, if you use a technically superior spotlight product from the likes of ALL LED, Collingwood, etc. you will not have come backs like you've been experiencing and in terms of lighting quality are far superior. The only brand which over the years have caused considerable issues as we've been using LED spots on our projects for over 10 years were from Aurora and Enlite IMO are a cheaper trade version of them. Hope this helps mate.
26:50 - Gotta remember when you've got say, 1m of copper stranded flex there's about 12 or so strands, in parallel, significantly reducing the resistance of the cable, this goes even further if you double the cores up.
I work making offshore marine cables (well, furloughed at the moment) and for power cores we typically double up 20AWG (about 6mm^2) cores for ground and live (red/black because DC), on higher current cables.
I wouldn't do it for a HV Sonar Boomer plate (those use 30mm^2 conductors with giant crimps and a soldering iron the size of my hand to put those crimps on), but for say, 60A feeding a Magnetometer via a tow cable, it works quite well. Data we double up to reduce loop attenuation and increase the SNR margin (signal-noise ratio)..though Offshore marine and Oil & Gas are still using COM ports, RS232 and RS485.
Your work looks as good as my dad's does (he's a sparky as well).
The double consumer unit looks mint Tom, top job mate. 👍
I love these vids, not even training to be a spark. Theyre just so entertaining to watch! 🤣
I fit Collingwood downlights. Solid fitting. The H2 Lite is a good entry with 4 years warranty. I must of fitted 3-4k fittings and changed a handful.
Ok good tip for Tom. Changing every 18 months to the same fitting is senseless. In a way the manufacturer makes u look like a bit of a knob.
Hi-Tuff sure is what it's name suggests. Dug up (with a mini digger!) the supply to my septic system (wanker spark put the cable 200mm below the lawn with no warning tape) anyway, dug it up, cable was undamaged. It pulled it out of the consumer unit, that stuff is damn strong :)
I agree Tom, I no longer fit integrated LED down-lights and won't until the reliability improves.
With respect to the window,
Approved document B 0(B1 for dwellinghouses) places a constraint on what can be considered an "emergency escape window"; section 2.8 (a) clarifies this. "The window should have an *unobstructed openable area* that is at least 0.33 m^2 wide that is *also* at least 450mm wide and 450mm high". Considering the window is tiny as fuck (clearly less than half a metre high) and the window is obstructed by the external paving, I'd say this isn't an emergency escape option. Some people are clearly lacking in the common sense department and let their fingers, rather than their brain, do the talking. I think your demonstration was sufficient to show common sense usually prevails in these situations.
Source: ADB B1, am fire safety consultant.
Great vid as always Tom!
If you get some 20/25mm female brass bushes it looks nice and also gives a round over to help stop any potential snagging on the cable insulation. Great job 👍🏻
I always file toward the work piece. Filing, as you show @ 5:21, away from the piece puts an edge, like sharpening a blade. Turning *either* the piece or the file around, you will remove any burr instead of creating one. Remember, the purpose of filing after cutting is to reduce the likelihood of someone being cut.
As Usual great vid, i never understand why the haters can't move on & watch something else.
Here in Australia we have an Electrical Company named Voltex .Their led 9.5w downlights are enclosed warranteed for 7 years life Excellent product
10:00 Hi-Tuf (spelling) versus normal flex. Maybe the hi-tuf is good for external exposure, whereas maybe the normal flex is only for internal use. Beware of exposure to the outside elements, such as UV which can degrade many plastics.
Well said. Its the external sheathing that is resistance to UV rays. Not only that but the cable looks horrible when it has been neaten by uv rays if not uv resistant.
@Thomas Nagy,
May I just say, with it being Christmas Eve here in New Zealand,
I wish yourself, Dave, Laura and the Camera Guy a happy and safe festive season!
Thanks for the awesome content this year that we have all watched and enjoyed.
Hopefully there aren't too many call-outs over this time.
Have a good one!
You're last few videos have been on point Tom. Really enjoying your work mate. Thanks and Merry Christmas.
Hey Tom, thanks for another A1 video, it was really relaxing interesting and entertaining. You're on very good form on this job.
I'd personally always recommend to the customer the LED lights are garbage and will eventually fail. Then if you have to go back and fit them new ones charge them the whole price for lights and labour. Its their risk and they should listen to someone who's been in the trade so long to tell them their rubbish. Great video!
your not wrong their, there is so much bull shit with led stuff, people are told they will last forever, which is rubbish, and dont get me started on trying to dim the bloody things, its so hit and miss. They are not the holy grail that people think they are.
Fit the same down lights on every job then you will always have a case for some that are in warranty?
15:50 - after demonstrating that it's not a fire escape, camera switch to inside view had me lol 😂😂😀👍
Yeah integrated LED light is a no no, I agreed and I rather stick to GU10 LED.
Think i would have ditched the tray and done the whole lot in the same trunking you've used for the dis board, legrand salamander also has far nicer buckles. 👌
AC guys like it because they don't have to make off a gland!, they also use SY cable then never use the correct glands one stuffer and a bit of tape around the braid.
whatthedeuse ac blokes are tramps
Always see sy used but it has no uv rating at all
Thank you, oh thank you for trying to climb out of that window.😂 Absolutely superb 😂
I have that exact same bench and had no clue those clamps go in like that. That is the dogs bollocks it's solid, easy to carry around and it's cheap.
Who makes the bench
Stuart Burgess mc alister from screwfix
I’ve got the same bench and never realised this either 😂🤦🏻♂️Mind blown! 🤯
Jay Harding do you have a link by any chance 😊 and what clamps do you use?
SIkRiILLeX Sorry just seems this, yes mate of course it’s this one
www.screwfix.com/p/mac-allister-folding-workstation/2320p
Loved the “fire escape” demo!
11:20 i allways aim for fitting gu10 so the client can change the lamp over as and when
When I did Engineering at college we were taught to file on the push stroke of a file to get a better finish and less chance of damaging thin items. Also when filing thin stuff clamp it as close to the edge as possible or use a wooden baton to reduce its flex.
Got the same table and got it mainly for the clamping method!!
what table is that mate?
When I did air con about 10 years ago. We used clear steel braid (SY) cable for air con units all the time. Supplies to isolators was always armoured.
Love your real world sarcasm as ever Tom - the 'fire escape' had me in stitches !! Fixed LED's - I've done the opposite (though probably worked out similar value) and we, as Sparks, still lose out i.e customer pays for replacements after warranty but I've fitted FOC as a gesture of goodwill.
To go on about the all in one downlights, id say its rather simple. Nothing in this world nowadays is designed to outlast its warranty period. Id say you still should have charged for the material and work. As long as you done your work correctly then its not your fault the lights broke, especially if you suggested to get standard downlights and they wanted the all in ones.
About the trunking, i only finished serving my time a few years ago, and when i was at college learning to do metal conduit, trunking, plastic etc etc, except from once where they showed us to do a 45 on some 50x50 trunking, we pretty much only got shown how to use manufactured bends. Pretty much told the building world is a perfect place, where all walls are square and straight, no plumbing will ever be in your way, and you can just use manufactured for everything. When i started working on sites, in old buildings etc etc i tell you it was a massive shock of a difference
Tom your class man. Your work is neat and very professional . And your humour is top. 👌
The inclosed spot lights we use here in Norway has great quality! Minimum 5 years warranty and best ones has 10 years warranty! We have used these for probably 8 years and we have very few cases where we have to go back!
What brand do you use?
Was about to say the same. SG Armaturen has 10 years warranty.
@@davidminnock252 SG Armaturen
@@davidminnock252 SG is the brand with 10 years warranty, we use a brand called ipas as well.
The provided flex for the hob does look like it‘s originally intended for a three phase supply and the single phase usage is an afterthought, which would make sense for a Miele device, because Miele is German and in Germany hobs are typically connected to a three phase 16a breaker wich would both fit the 11kw and 1.5mm2 wire.
Hi Tom, I know what your saying about the LED sealed fittings. I always fit the GU10 fire rated spots then the customer can change there own lamp when required. I have the same problem with domestic flood lights, after 12 months most fail and the customer can’t understand why the lamp can’t be replaced.
Nice to have a longer video Tom.
Where's Dave been recently?
We use robus or ksr downlights at work. Fitted hundreds of them in the past 3 years or so and we have only had to change about 2 or 3 in that time
And some hobs self limit power draw. It's amazing there is no distance for the tap, Aus Standards go into massive detail around wet areas and water holding v
essiles.
because whole-house earth leakage protection is standard in UK, which reduces safety risks on wet areas
@@ratchet1freak They pretty much have the same thing here with earth leakage protection. No the reg's here actually do have distances and wet zones for kitchen sinks amongst other things.
Thanks for the fire escape demo 😂🤣
Maybe the hob flex is really meant for a 3x16A 3phase 230/400V socket like we have in NL and adopted mindlessly to single phase. Then blue is neutral and brown,grey,black are phases 120 degrees shifted. However I would not connect more than 5kW to 2 single/same phase 1.5mm² tbh.
Just started watching your vids mate, pretty entertaining as well as informative. Your work looks pretty neat to me. Even the best electricians in the world are constantly learning. I know plenty of Irish Pixies who would definitely fit through that "fire escape" though. Brilliant
I installed over 140 Recessed 4inch on a new job and customer called and said all of the lights arent working. Turned out around 90 of them were bad. We had a big wind storm and the downed power lines most likely caused a surge and cooked all the led drivers. Took almost 2 days of removing the bad ones and chipping out the spray foam insulation on the 2nd floor to get the junction boxes out. Long story short now I install SPD devices in all my jobs now. 2020 NEC code in the U.S. now requires SPD's in all new residential construction anyway so Hopefully that will better protect that from happening again. Fortunately the homeowner was on the same page about what happened with the Recess lights. So I just charged him T&M@ cost to get everything back up and running. Also I've had several of them burn out before theyr expected lifespan in a 1 year block at several different locations. I'm wondering if the manufacturer was using a different driver in that time because it hasnt happened in about 3 years since then.. So its always a good idea to buy a few extra and keep them on hand. I use the lotus brand. Always go by the manufacturer's specs when fitting dimmers. They do all the testing and list all compatible devices to work with their products the best.
Great channel Tom! Cheers
I nearly always put cans in for exactly that reason. A bulb goes, most customers can change it themselves or it will take seconds to replace. The only two reasons I would fit an all in one unit is limited cavity space or the wider beam angle is needed.
We always fit JCC fire rated cans with just led screwfix bulbs, they’re good because they have push connectors in too!
Any chance of a video of drunk Tom ranting about silly TH-cam comments? I think that would be entertaining 😁
The ones of a sober Tom are pretty good! 😂
Any chance of a video of drunk Tom fitting a fuse board? I think it would be entertaining
@@samshiftsgears would be shocking..Ok I will get my coat.
Lovely job Tom, looks great with the galv trunking 👍🏻
Hi Tom, I always fit cans and GU10 led lamps.I never touch enclosed led fittings. And I've actually got to the stage that I get the customer to supply all other led fittings like floodlights or counter lighting, etc. such is the failure rate of these fittings.
Well high tough can be used outside and is extremely good protected against water ingress.
Additionally there's quite some vibrations on the AC units, by fans and compressors. Normal cables might rub through if not suspended carefully.
I'd be taking those lights back to whoever I bought them from and kicking off to get replacements. Falling far short of Sold As Described Functions for A Reasonable Time regardless of 1 Year warranty.
You getting through that window has made me laugh so hard lol. you tell them. x
I've been pulled up for making my own bend on a job ,75 x75 galv ,said edges could snag cables ,all of 6x 2.5 cables in trunking (singles) and no more cables will ever be installed.upshot ,had to change out for gusset bend ! One point on your install female bushes? How about cross bonding trunking?
Hi tom, sparky from Newcastle, I fit the integral led downlights, which are an enclosed fitting with a 3 year guarantee, very reasonable price and a very good light 👍👍👍
I’ve fitted some Enlite fittings and they have a 3 year warranty so you may want to check.
Hi-tuff cable is basically the same thing as another type of cable used in the States called tray cable. It has different ratings/use cases, but essentially the main feature is indeed impact resistance, and in many cases also UV & moisture resistance if it transitions to the outdoors. The UV stability and impact resistance is why the HVAC fitters are so up on the Hi-tuff. Oh, and of course, they can just run it into a regular stuffing gland. So fast terminations.
Hi Tom - ref' the LED lifespan. I am not an electrician but we do work with intelligent Poe lighting in my role. Often manufacturers brand the long life span of the LED's and are often correct. However the internal circuitry / drivers that often reside in the unit do not like the heat and its these components that fail (whilst the LED itself probably does still work although it will never light!) cutting edge Poe LED lighting uses rack mount highly reliable drivers (visually looks like a network switch) to power completely dumb diodes which are super reliable in comparison.
Retired A/C engineer, we always used SWA cable. Some industrial units required it (BT etc)
I fitted, leds 6 years ago in my mates, working fine still, samsung chipped gu10s
With the 11kw cable it's V×R=I so with that diameter and length you get a resistance value match it with the mains voltage and you get the cables max handling value so that appliance could be run on that cabke no problem at all but only that small run of 2 metres any longer and it will get heat problems so the 10mm is needed to bridge the gap of whatever is needed to keep the overall resistance low, so really it's the minimum copper diameter the manufacturer can give for the power handling and the length of 2 metres is chosen as the max mounting cable needed for most houses all for cost in the end it won't be in the box at all.
Hi Tom, you made the point about the cable supplied with the induction hob. Back in the early 2000's I fitted a Tritan show for my boss at the time, sorry but I can't remember all the details. However, we noticed on the paperwork that came with the unit a list of installation options, one of which was to use 2.5mm cables. we looked at the reg's and did the mathes and yes you can do a show fit with 2.5mm cable but it would be completely unreasonable to do so. I think we worked it out to something like 2 to 3 ft cable run, surface mount etc.
I wander if the hab manufacturer tried to cheat the reg's as triton did.
P,S, nice work with the trunking around the consumer unit.
I have same problems with wireless alarm system batteries . Told last for years and behold they fail after 15 months with normal use. So sometimes I give new ones. I try and teach customers to change there own batteries, on motion detectors and some devices. Nice watching you Tom. Good vids.
typo : their, not there, auto .... probably
Teaching customers : any stories about that ?
The fire escape was amazing 😂 “ rrrrrright lets give it a go” . You should do a doing it with Tom series on that sort of stuff where common sense clearly comes into play over a regulation
Well done who ever told Tom that window was a fire escape not laughed that much In ages 😂😂
Fire escape! 🤣🤣🤣 fire escape🤦🏼
I don't think you made enough effort to get out that fire escape 🤣. Lol. Had me in stitches!
4mm or 6mm Ho7 for hob fitting depending on Kw. Always bin the super short 1.5mm x2 flex supplied with appliance.
Garage tray / trunking and boards look nice 👍🏻
Long reach bushes with a locknut as a spacer and a locknut for securing board. Acts as secondary equipotential bond too.
Use Galv spray or Zinc Spray for Cut Ends Please.
Top job fella! Next time try using female bushes after the lock ring to cap off the end of male bush nicely leaving a smooth rounded edge, perfect for pulling cables through avoiding any damage to the insulation. Keep up the good work!
Fit the fire rated ansell downlights. Csn get ip20 or ip65 for bathrooms and they're pushing. 76mm cutout. They're so good and unbelievably quick to fit
Where did you get the Isolator from with the 2 out going tails
The reference to the lights : you write it into your bill/warranty. All Luminaries are limited to a 1 year guarantee regardless of manufacturers estimated life span.
Merry Christmas Thomas. Have a good one. 👍😁
Tom - with the flourescent strips in the garage there, why did you not look at 600x600 or 1200x600 modular LED Panels in a surface mount package? TLC do them - look at LT SP70DL for a 1200x600. They are super slim and would allow the customer a bit more headroom.
With the earth fly lead thing, I still prefer to do it because the screws won't earth it when you have the plate off and you might not be able to isolate it for whatever reason. The likelihood of the fly lead being useful increases significantly if something goes wrong while the plate is unscrewed and live.
But I guess the argument is under no circumstances should you be working live (I know this is unrealistic)
You’re right but technically you don’t need to fly lead
I tend to fit collingwood pro downlights & very little problems, I think they also come with a a 5 or 7 year warranty, their pricey but you get what you pay for. Not sure on the reg but tray needs to b earthed if T&E is installed but not if SWA is installed.
Alot of people wire stuff as constant loads. Only water heaters are treated so.
If you work it out 4mm is more than enough.
11000:240=45.8A as per onside guide page 123 take first 10A + 30% of remainder= 20.8A
After applying diversity your hob would need 20.8A
10mm a bit overkill i think.
As with a lot of stuff we follow accepted norms. Reality is that diversity applies as said above.
Also those doubled up 1.5’s could be good for 30A. 🙂
wow that bench is really cool
and yes you only file one direction
In Sweden we use 99.9999% spotlights with fixed LED light source in. I use Zebra Downlight Light 6.5W Dimwarm. Don't know if you get them in the UK, but can recommend them if you get them. Have never had any problem with them. 🇸🇪😊
Hi Tom, can you not use longer screws for the sockets in the kitchen? You can get the really long ones and then cut them down to size the sockets may still sit a little proud of the upstand but at least they will be screwed in place?
OMG almost peed my self with the fire escape window saga loved it
Noticed the wink and the end of a sentence. I do that a lot myself. I work with a guy that hates it, lol. I always wink at him when I get him to answer his own questions. lol
Have a merry Christmas and great New Year love you videos.
When i file i go left to right and dont use the file backwards and forwards. ;)