Great job on the video. Very informative! I repaired the drivers side rear door handle cable ends, and of course the latch ends went after 2 months. Along with the passenger side. Not bad for a 2000 though. Your video gave me a good insight on how to complete the job. I bought 2 different kits on amazon. The Dorman 926-111 looks like the way to go. When I did the drivers handle side, the kit I used was not the Dorman. I used a chisel to pry open the cable ends. The Dorman holes are a bit bigger and they are thinner so prying them open will be easier. Now as far as the rivets at the handles... The job is a lot easier if you knock out the center pins with a hammer and punch. Use a bit slightly larger then the holes and drill the rivet out. If you don't have a rivet gun... no reason you cant use sheet metal screws with a washer. Not like they'll interfere with anything. Again Thanks!!
Dorman Products part number 926-111 don't require drilling out. I got mine at a local parts store for $15 per side. Saves you a lot of labor. You don't have to remove the cable from the top latch either. Great video. Very helpful. I was trying to avoid drilling out the handle rivets but I don't think it's going to be an option.
Had an 08 Ranger I converted into a Prerunner. Tough little truck. I miss it. One of my doors had this issue. I rolled it before I could address it. Great technical skill ya got there 👍 😊. Have a nice week.
Wonderful video. Thank you. I was able to make the repairs and save $$$ The rivets was the toughest part, my 2002 Ford Ranger used a 3/16 drill bit to work them out. Replaced both doors in about 4 hours. 3 hours was learning on the first door. the second door took an hour.
The upper latch does indeed take a special aluminum ferrule that is keyed to fit into the latch hole, it did not however lock into place. Care should be taken to clean up any burrs at the raw cable ends prior to installing the new ferrules. smooth the ends with a file or sandpaper, the factory heat crimps the OEM plastic ferrules onto the cable which causes the burrs. A dab of grease applied to the ends prior to installing the ferrule also helps.
Thanks for the video. Very informative. Just got done doing this on my 2000 Ranger. Luckily my wife was willing to help with this project. My only problem now is the cables don't slide freely, have to push the handle in to make it close correctly.
Great feedback. You might want to go back inside to check the cable routing / tension and look for any clues for the slide problem. Thanks much for posting.
Yeah i did the handles only a while back. That wasn't easy so i cant image the whole gig. Side note. The original handle weighed noticeably more than the import knock-off aftermarket version. Now i have to do the entire thing. Yea rah. Kudos for a job well done on your side.
AN EASY WAY! First off the new aluminum end caps have to be drilled out so the inner cable is in the center of the end caps. I used a jig saw and then reamed out until smooth and centered., a bit of a pain but if you don't do this the cable will bind and not work. Don't drill ,chisel out the rivets on the door handle putting the beveled side of the chisel against the door handle. Way easier than drilling an did not leave a mark on the handle. Once the door handle is removed there will be enough slack in the cable to put the end caps on the cable and attach the cable to the latch. Only the bottom latch needs to be taken out to work on replacing the new cable end caps.after removing the old plastic end caps sand the outer cable to remove any rough spots so new caps will slide on easier. You just need to take off the brace on the top latch to access the spot where the cable attaches. There is no need to take the cable off the latch.
Can anyone here tell me the size and pitch of the screws that hold the lower rear door latch? I had to grind off the heads of two of them to get the latch out. Ford wants six dollars and change for EACH screw and there are 3 screws. I need a more affordable alternative but can find no info on the screws other than the Ford part number (Latch Screw - Ford (-N811471-S100).
Anyone know where I can locate 2 of the full kits for replacing the latch and rod systems? My baby is 24 years old and needs some serious love 🙏🏻😭😭 it's my first vehicle that my dad bought me when I was 14, and I'm trying to keep her going as long as I can
i love how when she is closing the door at the end she is pushing the handle back in with her hands.
Great job on the video. Very informative! I repaired the drivers side rear door handle cable ends, and of course the latch ends went after 2 months. Along with the passenger side. Not bad for a 2000 though. Your video gave me a good insight on how to complete the job.
I bought 2 different kits on amazon. The Dorman 926-111 looks like the way to go. When I did the drivers handle side, the kit I used was not the Dorman. I used a chisel to pry open the cable ends. The Dorman holes are a bit bigger and they are thinner so prying them open will be easier.
Now as far as the rivets at the handles... The job is a lot easier if you knock out the center pins with a hammer and punch. Use a bit slightly larger then the holes and drill the rivet out. If you don't have a rivet gun... no reason you cant use sheet metal screws with a washer. Not like they'll interfere with anything.
Again Thanks!!
Very glad to read your report @niterider2285! I think many will benefit from your feedback. Many thanks for posting.
You did a great job on the cable for the extended cab door repair
Thank you Luis!
Nicely done, this job is a pain in the backside. I have a Mazda that I have had to do this on both sides. Wish I had seen this earlier!
Thanks @brianrawleigh7242! Appreciate the encouragement.
Dorman Products part number 926-111 don't require drilling out. I got mine at a local parts store for $15 per side. Saves you a lot of labor. You don't have to remove the cable from the top latch either. Great video. Very helpful. I was trying to avoid drilling out the handle rivets but I don't think it's going to be an option.
Great Feedback! Thanks for posting for everyone's benefit. Love that 69 Mustang pic!
Had an 08 Ranger I converted into a Prerunner. Tough little truck. I miss it. One of my doors had this issue. I rolled it before I could address it. Great technical skill ya got there 👍 😊. Have a nice week.
Thank you @JoSh-oo-Ah! Hope yours is good too!
Wonderful video. Thank you. I was able to make the repairs and save $$$
The rivets was the toughest part, my 2002 Ford Ranger used a 3/16 drill bit to work them out.
Replaced both doors in about 4 hours. 3 hours was learning on the first door. the second door took an hour.
The 2nd one is always faster 😉 Great job @thrivingvines! Thanks for posting.
The upper latch does indeed take a special aluminum ferrule that is keyed to fit into the latch hole, it did not however lock into place. Care should be taken to clean up any burrs at the raw cable ends prior to installing the new ferrules. smooth the ends with a file or sandpaper, the factory heat crimps the OEM plastic ferrules onto the cable which causes the burrs. A dab of grease applied to the ends prior to installing the ferrule also helps.
Thanks for the video. Very informative. Just got done doing this on my 2000 Ranger. Luckily my wife was willing to help with this project. My only problem now is the cables don't slide freely, have to push the handle in to make it close correctly.
Great feedback. You might want to go back inside to check the cable routing / tension and look for any clues for the slide problem. Thanks much for posting.
Yeah i did the handles only a while back. That wasn't easy so i cant image the whole gig.
Side note. The original handle weighed noticeably more than the import knock-off aftermarket version. Now i have to do the entire thing. Yea rah.
Kudos for a job well done on your side.
Thank you Barry! I trust you'll get it repaired soon.
Great video, thanks so much.
You are most welcome @mathewscott8896!
great job! I tried to do this and failed, I missed lining the cable and the new fitting "line up" properly! Thx!
Thanks HMN! I hope you'll take another swing at it soon.
Thats wonderful @SideHustle2Business! Glad you got it fixed.
Does anyone know if I’d just be able to cut off the slack and sitter those oval ends back on
Fair question Josh... we don't think soddering would hold up under the pressure.
AN EASY WAY! First off the new aluminum end caps have to be drilled out so the inner cable is in the center of the end caps. I used a jig saw and then reamed out until smooth and centered., a bit of a pain but if you don't do this the cable will bind and not work. Don't drill ,chisel out the rivets on the door handle putting the beveled side of the chisel against the door handle. Way easier than drilling an did not leave a mark on the handle. Once the door handle is removed there will be enough slack in the cable to put the end caps on the cable and attach the cable to the latch. Only the bottom latch needs to be taken out to work on replacing the new cable end caps.after removing the old plastic end caps sand the outer cable to remove any rough spots so new caps will slide on easier. You just need to take off the brace on the top latch to access the spot where the cable attaches. There is no need to take the cable off the latch.
Good, constructive feedback. Thanks James!
Awesome
Can anyone here tell me the size and pitch of the screws that hold the lower rear door latch? I had to grind off the heads of two of them to get the latch out. Ford wants six dollars and change for EACH screw and there are 3 screws. I need a more affordable alternative but can find no info on the screws other than the Ford part number (Latch Screw - Ford (-N811471-S100).
Nice. !!
Anyone know where I can locate 2 of the full kits for replacing the latch and rod systems? My baby is 24 years old and needs some serious love 🙏🏻😭😭 it's my first vehicle that my dad bought me when I was 14, and I'm trying to keep her going as long as I can
If new replacement parts aren't available, then maybe you should consider the used part market. Hope you get er fixed soon!
What kind and size rivets
Wow Scott, It's been too long to remember what we used.
It’s a T50 torx , not a T45.
Wish this vid hadnt cut so quickly bn the processes. otherwise would have been great tutorial
Laura, will you marry me?