Yeah, I bought a new Prusa and had it factory assembled. This unit has had nothing but problems. Day after day. I have spent more time on chat trying to fix it than printing something.
Bruh... the little black collar at the top of the heat sink has to be pulled UP once the PTFE tube is seated... but what do I know? I'm running 2mm retractions without problems in PLA, PETG, and ABS.
i know I'm late to the party here. But i had a problem recently with the extruder motors clicking. I guessed it was a jam and i did many cold pulls and disassembly and reassembly. The one thing i didn't take apart was the heartbreak from the cooler. I eventually got a new hotend assembly from prusa. After replacing it, it printed just fine, So i went back at the old one because i was baffled. This time, i decided to remove the heatbreak and reapplied the thermal paste. I used thermal grizzly hydronaut as thats what i had available. Old hotend fixed! Read up on it, im not an expert but i think it had something to do with the filament melting too early inside the heatbreak and causing the solid filament to push into the melted filament, hit a "wall" click, then melt, extrude a tiny bit, then repeat. Not sure if that was actually the case but changing the thermal paste in my opinion was the solution to my problem
I think I’m dealing with the same as you, but I’m not sure, would you care to watch a video of my extruder clicking, and seeing if it matches the behavior you experienced.? I can upload a clip and send you a link, your help would be much appreciated. Btw, was you filament coming out weird from the nozzle.?
This is a known issue also addressed by the 3D printing nerd. If you have no idea about this: The heatbreak on MK3 printers and up is a custom E3D heatbreak designed for Prusa because the MMU unit needs one of the heatbreak’s holes to be bigger to work well. The downside? It causes jams especially with filaments having too many additives in them. So if you are not going to buy the overpriced piece of junk called MMU to print different colors - do yourself a favor and buy the standard e3d heatbreak because it’s much more reliable than the Prusa e3d one. You will have less issues and increase filament compatibility. This is also discussed in Prusa forums. Whoever says “I never had an issue” - good for you. It doesn’t mean that everyone else who had problems because of this is imagining things.
Never had issues that could not be resolved by reading the manual. The manual is very clear and if followed properly, you will not have issues you can not resolve. Never have I dismantled my Prusa like this.
My Prusa just runs and runs. Only had one clog which was my own fault. Sorry you’ve had so much trouble, but I would by another Prusa in a heartbeat. 👍
Maybe try to use good settings and good quality filament at first... Prusa uses those machines in his printer farm and each of those machines will spit more plastic each month than you'll ever
prusa doesnt manufacture the hotend e3d does and that problem is persistent when you have a ton of retractions that are fast and long in length but this only happens to me when i am using very brittle filament other than that it works fine if i just reduce my r speed and length, i just use a heat gun to vaporize the strings afterwards if there are any.
The Prusa MK3S is a premium product that you pay a premium for. It's a $300 printer which costs $750 as a kit or $1000 as an assembled product. The extra $450-700 you're paying goes towards customer support, tuning, and their high standard of quality assurance. So why didn't you call them? Guess what, you paid $700 for the ability to call them and have them fix it if something goes wrong. So why aren't you utilizing the product which you purchased to its fullest extent??? You own a warranty, your ass is covered if shit like this happens. Your experience is a complete anomaly, but Prusa is prepared to handle crazy anomalies - hence why they charge a crazy premium! Which you paid! So why didn't you just call them to have them fix the product which you paid them for the ability to call them to fix the problem for?????????? You basically paid a maid to clean your whole house, told her to fuck off after handing her the check, and got mad at her for not cleaning your house. It seems like you were much more interested in complaining on TH-cam rather than calling the service providers whom you paid to provide you with a service. Another analogy: it's like my new car breaks down in the middle of the highway, but instead of calling insurance/the car company, I waste time sitting around and filming a video about me stranded on the highway for TH-cam. I get it, you want to document your experience and let people make more educated decisions - but you can't get around the fact that you are paying a high premium purely for the ability to have problems like these rectified without any hassle. If you paid a company $300 to build an i3 printer and ship it to you, and you had the same problem and made the same video, that would have been whack because you know that a $300 i3 printer is something that you will have to tune yourself. If you paid a company $1000 to build an i3 printer and ship it to you, and you had the same problem and made the same video, that would have been reasonable because you would expect more for $1000. But, what really happened is you paid $300 for an i3 printer and $700 for a full service package, a warranty, and customer support, and you're acting like you paid $1000 on just a printer - which you didn't. Don't be helpless, literally just send the people you paid to do a job an email so they can help you by DOING THEIR JOB. You're helping to pay a bunch of people's hourly wages so they can sit on the phone with you, fix your printer, and cover your hairy ass. Did you not realize this? Did you not realize what you were purchasing???
Prusa is a bad product, the reason it gets rave reviews is that it comes with a complete bundle of products and requires very little thought or effort and will give you that nice looking print...here and there. But try to run one in any serious environment, and you'll pull your hair out. Its not just the heat brake, its the bed and much more. After 3 mechanical engineers, about $500 in upgrades, the Prusa still couldnt manage to give us 5/5 good prints. Its at around 3/5. Either the parts come off bed, part warps, uneven step size, etc. Its always something, which isnt surprusing given its made from 3D printed parts....which I dont understand how that would ever be a good idea besides showing off you can, in fact, make some 3D printer parts from an FDM printer...except of course the parts that actually matter, like the PCB, bearings, motors, etc. This is why Ive realized you either get an Ender and pay next to nothing, and tinker with it, or you simply spend around $1000 and get a legit, closed bed FDM printer with actual temperature control.
You should be able to but you can't adjust the retratction very much because of the tapered heat break design. if you print it on many different 3D printers you would understand this better
@@voidwarranty1708 I have printed on many different printers before. I just don't understand how you a possibly having so many issues. I have a i3 MK3 at home and its the best experience out of any of the 3D printers Ive worked with. (I intern at a maker space so I do maintenance and use many 3D printers every day) I use ultimaker. lulzbot, Monoprice, and other 3d printer brands on the daily but the Prusa is my favorite by far one to use because of all the features and pretty good print quality. I think that you may be having a bad experience with your printer specifically and If I were you I would reach out to Prusa support (In the past I have had great experience with them) and try to get some help because I can tell you that between the Prusa's that I have worked with, I have experienced minimal issues of anything you described.
@@voidwarranty1708what room do you us the printer in? Have you done a pid calibration? Do you use a silicone sock? Are you using textured of smooth bed? Did you buy the printer as a kit or assembled?
Stringing can also be because of the weak hotend fan. I did not have any stringing problems on my stock mk3, but others said said switching the noctua to something else helped with stringing and clogging.
I have had like, every single possible issue with this printer. From bad firmware to bad software to problems with layer slipping, etc. I have spent like 40 hours tweaking this thing and still cant even print the basic models that come on the SD.
I'll be honest when I say I didn't have any problems with my Prusa but I can honestly state that it's nothing special when compared to a properly calibrated Chinese machine. It's also way overpriced when you take the printed parts in to account. I sold mine and have no regrets whatsoever.
First of all, what the heck do you think their software is paid with.. never seen a good slicer from those cheap brands that works like Prusas. Secondly they explained why the heatbrake is like this, and that is not optimal for MMU but for the majority with none.
I think this guy does not know what he is doing. I also wonder if he purchased the kit or the pre-built version. I will say some people have had issues. I think Joel even mentioned this in one video and even says he had a hard time with a specific filament he was trying to use. The thing is, that heatbreak is specifically designed to work with the multi material upgrade. It's even stated by prusa and Joel even says this. But if you are not going to use the modified heatbreak, you can just swap it for the standard e3d heatbreak.
Not sure why you are getting downvoted, i got a prusa recently and my god it's just awful. keeps saying y axis length error every time i try the selftest. Ive tried tightening the belt, loosening the grip on the bearing u bolts, lubing the rods, autohoming, still same error. tried printing anyways. it has issues sticking to the bed, even with a brim. can never get through a print before the piece gets loose from the bed. detects crashes, print fails. very loud grinding sounds from one of the axis. the 3d printed parts the printer is made out of are just terrible, you have to sand them forever just to get anything to fit. instructions are also terrible, too many combined steps and the entire wiring picture for the motherboard is way too small. the cable management is terrible too, there are way too many wires stuffed into a small box, and the worst part is they expect just a tiny piece of filament to keep the entire main branch of cables from hitting the bed, and i was never able to get this piece of filament to stay stuck in the hole its supposed to go in, even after sharpening it.
I've had my prusa for a couple of years now and I haven't had any problems. Hell I didn't even know what I was doing at the beginning. I have good mechanical stills so I bought the kit. Thinking that was a mistake putting it together and it printed great just the first print. I don't have a mmu2. Just use the setting they give you. It's you dude please get some help.
You have no f****** clue what you're talking about youit has to do with the type of film that you're using you cannot use certain filaments with this printer because of the heat break design. filaments that you can easily use on really cheap crappy printers and it's not crappy filament it's actually very expensive much more costly than the cheap crap that you use
@@voidwarranty1708 Guy who claims he knows what he is doing had a printer that doesn’t work. The guy saying that he knows nothing has a printer that works.🤔
@@christopherlam5329 here late but proto has a tendency to string unless you lower hotend temps. and youre right.....the technology is only as smart as its user. had a good laugh about this though.
I'm not a HUGE fan of Prusa, but I've gotta say, I run 14 MK3s's 24/7 with an average of 1.4mm retraction (from .6mm to 1.6mm) running 90% ESUN and SUNLU PETG (pretty cheap shit). The rest is PC and TPU. I get essentially no stringing at all. I do agree that that heatbreak thing does affect clogging negatively, but nothing that can't be managed with settings.
The taper is not the problem... you just have to push the tube down and hold the fitting with a black collet properly... most dont hold it, so the tube moves. THATS the problem... Learn your machine before hating a nice product
Bro, the whole thing sucks. I asked their support about the crazy badsaw noise and they said new bearings. This thing was less that 2 months old and had done about 20 hours of printing. I have an ANET A8 (heavily modified and still working fine since 2016). That Anet printed a AtomX (still working fine since 2017) ---- all this is about 5 years old btw.. I bought a Tevo Tornado - which, tbf, is a bag of dangerous shit but I heavily modified and is now spot on with a Pi safe guard etc (2018). I bought the Prusa in the pandemic. It cost me £700 as a KIT FFS!. I have maybe printed 5 or 6 things with it (mostly covid screens) and I have to say, it is the biggest bag of shit I have ever used 3d printer wise. I want my money back. Their online help is a joke. They have my money. Be careful. Feel free to contact me for more evidence, details, video, etc. Cheers
It does suck. Everything I have ever bought from Prusa has been bad. The prusa mini was a joke. MMu2 = Trash . Mk3s+ ( factory built ) The bed thermistor was routed wrong and snaped in 1st month of printing. The grub screw that went inside the heat block for the heater cartridge was seized. So I had to buy a new heater cart + heater block 2nd month of printing. All because the DD jammed during a filament swap. I refuse to support Prusa after this. You are going to have fan boys down in the comments praising how god tier prusa is. But their machine might be god status and never had issues. Again with me everything i have ordered from Prusa has been nothing but headaches. My print farm now is all Enders I don't mind tinkering and tweaking those machines. The 4x cost of a Prusa thats held together with zip ties for $1000 just was a waste of time for me. If you think about it prusa is just an out dated 8bit machine with dd + e3d v6 hotend and abl sensor. That all a prusa is. Its not worth the price what so every. - rant over
Why is your ptfe tube blue. Thats your problem right there. You either need to use the Ptfe tube cut by Prusa or print a jig (available on thingivers or Prusa printers) to cut ptfe tube at the correct angle.
Yeah, I bought a new Prusa and had it factory assembled. This unit has had nothing but problems. Day after day. I have spent more time on chat trying to fix it than printing something.
maybe it's just that you don't know what you are doing, Ive had a prusa for a year, and never had that problem
Bruh... the little black collar at the top of the heat sink has to be pulled UP once the PTFE tube is seated...
but what do I know? I'm running 2mm retractions without problems in PLA, PETG, and ABS.
It is.. bruh...
i know I'm late to the party here. But i had a problem recently with the extruder motors clicking. I guessed it was a jam and i did many cold pulls and disassembly and reassembly. The one thing i didn't take apart was the heartbreak from the cooler. I eventually got a new hotend assembly from prusa. After replacing it, it printed just fine, So i went back at the old one because i was baffled. This time, i decided to remove the heatbreak and reapplied the thermal paste. I used thermal grizzly hydronaut as thats what i had available. Old hotend fixed! Read up on it, im not an expert but i think it had something to do with the filament melting too early inside the heatbreak and causing the solid filament to push into the melted filament, hit a "wall" click, then melt, extrude a tiny bit, then repeat. Not sure if that was actually the case but changing the thermal paste in my opinion was the solution to my problem
I think I’m dealing with the same as you, but I’m not sure, would you care to watch a video of my extruder clicking, and seeing if it matches the behavior you experienced.?
I can upload a clip and send you a link, your help would be much appreciated. Btw, was you filament coming out weird from the nozzle.?
How did you solve the problem?
exactly my problem
This is a known issue also addressed by the 3D printing nerd. If you have no idea about this: The heatbreak on MK3 printers and up is a custom E3D heatbreak designed for Prusa because the MMU unit needs one of the heatbreak’s holes to be bigger to work well. The downside? It causes jams especially with filaments having too many additives in them. So if you are not going to buy the overpriced piece of junk called MMU to print different colors - do yourself a favor and buy the standard e3d heatbreak because it’s much more reliable than the Prusa e3d one. You will have less issues and increase filament compatibility. This is also discussed in Prusa forums. Whoever says “I never had an issue” - good for you. It doesn’t mean that everyone else who had problems because of this is imagining things.
Never had issues that could not be resolved by reading the manual. The manual is very clear and if followed properly, you will not have issues you can not resolve. Never have I dismantled my Prusa like this.
My Prusa just runs and runs. Only had one clog which was my own fault. Sorry you’ve had so much trouble, but I would by another Prusa in a heartbeat. 👍
Certain filaments will jam it. I sold the piece of overpriced garbage.
@@voidwarranty1708 noob
@@XIIOSRS fanboy
@@voidwarranty1708 Honestly, just based on everything I've watched and read, you're just a talentless hack.
what did you do to clog it? asking bzs I'm REALY wanting to avoid that.
Maybe try to use good settings and good quality filament at first...
Prusa uses those machines in his printer farm and each of those machines will spit more plastic each month than you'll ever
prusa print each day more then u print in one year (500 or most much more printers)
i think is the error 66 66cm in front of the printer
prusa doesnt manufacture the hotend e3d does and that problem is persistent when you have a ton of retractions that are fast and long in length but this only happens to me when i am using very brittle filament other than that it works fine if i just reduce my r speed and length, i just use a heat gun to vaporize the strings afterwards if there are any.
They tapered it so it's modified from the original e3d design
The MK3 heatbreak is unique to it, actually.
Ever heard of Periods?
I just followed you! Im also into RCs, drones, and just ordered a Prusa. How'd your fix work out?
You can buy replacement heartbreaks... Although my Prusa runs excellent
This highlights another problem -- it fucking sucks to work on the x carriage. No local disconnects.
The Prusa MK3S is a premium product that you pay a premium for. It's a $300 printer which costs $750 as a kit or $1000 as an assembled product. The extra $450-700 you're paying goes towards customer support, tuning, and their high standard of quality assurance. So why didn't you call them? Guess what, you paid $700 for the ability to call them and have them fix it if something goes wrong. So why aren't you utilizing the product which you purchased to its fullest extent??? You own a warranty, your ass is covered if shit like this happens. Your experience is a complete anomaly, but Prusa is prepared to handle crazy anomalies - hence why they charge a crazy premium! Which you paid! So why didn't you just call them to have them fix the product which you paid them for the ability to call them to fix the problem for??????????
You basically paid a maid to clean your whole house, told her to fuck off after handing her the check, and got mad at her for not cleaning your house. It seems like you were much more interested in complaining on TH-cam rather than calling the service providers whom you paid to provide you with a service. Another analogy: it's like my new car breaks down in the middle of the highway, but instead of calling insurance/the car company, I waste time sitting around and filming a video about me stranded on the highway for TH-cam. I get it, you want to document your experience and let people make more educated decisions - but you can't get around the fact that you are paying a high premium purely for the ability to have problems like these rectified without any hassle.
If you paid a company $300 to build an i3 printer and ship it to you, and you had the same problem and made the same video, that would have been whack because you know that a $300 i3 printer is something that you will have to tune yourself. If you paid a company $1000 to build an i3 printer and ship it to you, and you had the same problem and made the same video, that would have been reasonable because you would expect more for $1000. But, what really happened is you paid $300 for an i3 printer and $700 for a full service package, a warranty, and customer support, and you're acting like you paid $1000 on just a printer - which you didn't.
Don't be helpless, literally just send the people you paid to do a job an email so they can help you by DOING THEIR JOB. You're helping to pay a bunch of people's hourly wages so they can sit on the phone with you, fix your printer, and cover your hairy ass. Did you not realize this? Did you not realize what you were purchasing???
The power supply and mainboard alone are $200, so there is definitely a lot more than $300 worth of parts.
@@ScytheNoire identical power supply and comparable board are like $80 max from resellers, probably way cheaper in quantity.
Prusa is a bad product, the reason it gets rave reviews is that it comes with a complete bundle of products and requires very little thought or effort and will give you that nice looking print...here and there.
But try to run one in any serious environment, and you'll pull your hair out. Its not just the heat brake, its the bed and much more.
After 3 mechanical engineers, about $500 in upgrades, the Prusa still couldnt manage to give us 5/5 good prints. Its at around 3/5. Either the parts come off bed, part warps, uneven step size, etc. Its always something, which isnt surprusing given its made from 3D printed parts....which I dont understand how that would ever be a good idea besides showing off you can, in fact, make some 3D printer parts from an FDM printer...except of course the parts that actually matter, like the PCB, bearings, motors, etc.
This is why Ive realized you either get an Ender and pay next to nothing, and tinker with it, or you simply spend around $1000 and get a legit, closed bed FDM printer with actual temperature control.
Stringing can be solved in slicer.
You should be able to but you can't adjust the retratction very much because of the tapered heat break design. if you print it on many different 3D printers you would understand this better
@@voidwarranty1708 I have printed on many different printers before. I just don't understand how you a possibly having so many issues. I have a i3 MK3 at home and its the best experience out of any of the 3D printers Ive worked with. (I intern at a maker space so I do maintenance and use many 3D printers every day) I use ultimaker. lulzbot, Monoprice, and other 3d printer brands on the daily but the Prusa is my favorite by far one to use because of all the features and pretty good print quality. I think that you may be having a bad experience with your printer specifically and If I were you I would reach out to Prusa support (In the past I have had great experience with them) and try to get some help because I can tell you that between the Prusa's that I have worked with, I have experienced minimal issues of anything you described.
@@voidwarranty1708what room do you us the printer in? Have you done a pid calibration? Do you use a silicone sock? Are you using textured of smooth bed? Did you buy the printer as a kit or assembled?
Good video except you did not add the results of switching it. That would be good.
Stringing can also be because of the weak hotend fan.
I did not have any stringing problems on my stock mk3, but others said said switching the noctua to something else helped with stringing and clogging.
You can't do enough retraction because of the heat break design.
@@WealthShepherd You shouldn't need more than 2mm retraction, though.
Why the printer sucks: complains about the hotends heatbreak
I have had like, every single possible issue with this printer. From bad firmware to bad software to problems with layer slipping, etc. I have spent like 40 hours tweaking this thing and still cant even print the basic models that come on the SD.
I’ll buy it off you
What’s the issue with it?
I'll be honest when I say I didn't have any problems with my Prusa but I can honestly state that it's nothing special when compared to a properly calibrated Chinese machine. It's also way overpriced when you take the printed parts in to account. I sold mine and have no regrets whatsoever.
Yep prusa sucks
dont get sucked in to the 'Apple' of 3d printers lol
Apple doesn't allow users to repair products and doesn't use open source parts. So the comparison completely fails.
First of all, what the heck do you think their software is paid with.. never seen a good slicer from those cheap brands that works like Prusas.
Secondly they explained why the heatbrake is like this, and that is not optimal for MMU but for the majority with none.
I think this guy does not know what he is doing. I also wonder if he purchased the kit or the pre-built version. I will say some people have had issues. I think Joel even mentioned this in one video and even says he had a hard time with a specific filament he was trying to use. The thing is, that heatbreak is specifically designed to work with the multi material upgrade. It's even stated by prusa and Joel even says this. But if you are not going to use the modified heatbreak, you can just swap it for the standard e3d heatbreak.
Not sure why you are getting downvoted, i got a prusa recently and my god it's just awful. keeps saying y axis length error every time i try the selftest. Ive tried tightening the belt, loosening the grip on the bearing u bolts, lubing the rods, autohoming, still same error. tried printing anyways. it has issues sticking to the bed, even with a brim. can never get through a print before the piece gets loose from the bed. detects crashes, print fails. very loud grinding sounds from one of the axis. the 3d printed parts the printer is made out of are just terrible, you have to sand them forever just to get anything to fit. instructions are also terrible, too many combined steps and the entire wiring picture for the motherboard is way too small. the cable management is terrible too, there are way too many wires stuffed into a small box, and the worst part is they expect just a tiny piece of filament to keep the entire main branch of cables from hitting the bed, and i was never able to get this piece of filament to stay stuck in the hole its supposed to go in, even after sharpening it.
LOL, sounds like you put it together yourself and didn't follow instructions.
I've had my prusa for a couple of years now and I haven't had any problems. Hell I didn't even know what I was doing at the beginning. I have good mechanical stills so I bought the kit. Thinking that was a mistake putting it together and it printed great just the first print. I don't have a mmu2. Just use the setting they give you. It's you dude please get some help.
You have no f****** clue what you're talking about youit has to do with the type of film that you're using you cannot use certain filaments with this printer because of the heat break design. filaments that you can easily use on really cheap crappy printers and it's not crappy filament it's actually very expensive much more costly than the cheap crap that you use
@@voidwarranty1708 Guy who claims he knows what he is doing had a printer that doesn’t work. The guy saying that he knows nothing has a printer that works.🤔
@@christopherlam5329 here late but proto has a tendency to string unless you lower hotend temps. and youre right.....the technology is only as smart as its user. had a good laugh about this though.
i have about 35 reasons to why that printer is an overpriced piece of shit, but that is not one of them.
I'm not a HUGE fan of Prusa, but I've gotta say, I run 14 MK3s's 24/7 with an average of 1.4mm retraction (from .6mm to 1.6mm) running 90% ESUN and SUNLU PETG (pretty cheap shit). The rest is PC and TPU. I get essentially no stringing at all.
I do agree that that heatbreak thing does affect clogging negatively, but nothing that can't be managed with settings.
fair comment. I think its hard to tie the stringing to the heatbreak but his video is still correct about the heatbreaks clogging issues.
Thats not prusa's problem, its e3d's problem
Prusa had e3D custom manufacturer this specific item
The taper is not the problem... you just have to push the tube down and hold the fitting with a black collet properly... most dont hold it, so the tube moves. THATS the problem... Learn your machine before hating a nice product
It's a well-known problem. It's why you cannot have very much retraction compared to the original design.
Bro, the whole thing sucks. I asked their support about the crazy badsaw noise and they said new bearings. This thing was less that 2 months old and had done about 20 hours of printing. I have an ANET A8 (heavily modified and still working fine since 2016). That Anet printed a AtomX (still working fine since 2017) ---- all this is about 5 years old btw.. I bought a Tevo Tornado - which, tbf, is a bag of dangerous shit but I heavily modified and is now spot on with a Pi safe guard etc (2018). I bought the Prusa in the pandemic. It cost me £700 as a KIT FFS!. I have maybe printed 5 or 6 things with it (mostly covid screens) and I have to say, it is the biggest bag of shit I have ever used 3d printer wise. I want my money back. Their online help is a joke. They have my money. Be careful. Feel free to contact me for more evidence, details, video, etc. Cheers
It does suck. Everything I have ever bought from Prusa has been bad. The prusa mini was a joke. MMu2 = Trash . Mk3s+ ( factory built ) The bed thermistor was routed wrong and snaped in 1st month of printing. The grub screw that went inside the heat block for the heater cartridge was seized. So I had to buy a new heater cart + heater block 2nd month of printing. All because the DD jammed during a filament swap. I refuse to support Prusa after this. You are going to have fan boys down in the comments praising how god tier prusa is. But their machine might be god status and never had issues. Again with me everything i have ordered from Prusa has been nothing but headaches. My print farm now is all Enders I don't mind tinkering and tweaking those machines. The 4x cost of a Prusa thats held together with zip ties for $1000 just was a waste of time for me. If you think about it prusa is just an out dated 8bit machine with dd + e3d v6 hotend and abl sensor. That all a prusa is. Its not worth the price what so every. - rant over
most problems are create by teflon who is not on the bottom, bin there don that , two prusa printers here, never problems, never...
Thanks. You just talked me out of buying a Prusa.
Why is your ptfe tube blue. Thats your problem right there. You either need to use the Ptfe tube cut by Prusa or print a jig (available on thingivers or Prusa printers) to cut ptfe tube at the correct angle.
Its capricorn ptfe numbnuts
E R what the hell is that?
@@oarnaur You're having a pop at someone for not knowing what they're talking about whilst not knowing what you're talking about.
@@ajc4477 Fucking hilarious
Just seeing that you use an adjustable wrench makes me know it’s you not the printer🤪
What sucks is your audio