Bring Your Chisels Back to Life- Easy Sharpening
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ก.ย. 2013
- I picked up an old 1 1/2" wide chisels the other day. I wanted to get it back into working order. I walk through the steps I take to clean it up and get it sharpened.
#chisel #woodworking #sharpening - บันเทิง
Great vid man in this throw away world we live in good to see a bit of restoration on a perfectly good chisel
You just inspired me to sharpen my chisels on the cheap; at least I won't have to buy several sharpening stones to do so.
I used scary sharp for years until I found out my Trend 1000 grit diamond stone had an effective grit size of 5 microns, better than 2000 grit paper. Now I use scary sharp up to maybe 800 grit for an initial restoration or post grind sharpening followed by the Trend stone and strops with a DMT 1 micron and .5 micron diamond paste. After that I can keep them sharp on the strop and an occasional use of the trend stone. The use of a honing guide is also something I recommend. I use the Veritas Mk II but almost any will work. One like his can be quickly set to different angles by setting some stop blocks on a board at distances to known angles. Makes setup fast and easy.
You should watch Paul Sellers video on sharpening chisels he's only been at it for 50 years.
Mike 50 YEAR'S ONLY 4 MR.PAUL SELLER'S 😐😐😐😐 HE STILL N APPRENTICE MY FRIEND 🤣😂🤣😂.... ALL BULLSHIT ASIDE MY RESPEKTS 2 THAT MAN N THE REST OF THEM THAT STILL ENJOY SHOWN US THEIR SKILLS 👐👐👐👐
Great video! I had a few old chisels and sharpened like you had shown and they sharpened nicely.Scary sharp indeed
Thanks for the video. Finally a normal dude who is not a pompous peacock. I will be sure to subscribe.
Who said I was normal haha. Thanks for the sub!
I've used this method on plate glass up to 2000 grit sandpaper. Works great.
Workable. Put a piece of plate glass or such under the sandpaper. Gives a flat surface. Wet/dry sandpaper works well.For the truly obsessive, final polish with crocus cloth.
nice job, I have a piece of tempered glass a little bit bigger than 3 sheets of sand paper wide. I have 10 different grits-strips, 5/ side. I use water to hold in place,soak the sheets, put on glass and let dry works great
That's a good idea. I might cut the strips into skinnier pieces and use your technique.
The suggestion of grid Nos. of sandpaper and usage is appreciated. Using sandpaper will be economical, easy use & throw maintenance and a great idea for small and hobby workshops. Thanks a lot. Carry on.
+Parthasarathi Karthigayan look into making a strope aa well. Will improve the sharpening process even further.
Timothy Charles I will try and revert to you.
Great video! I learned a very similar method for sharpening gravers when I was in goldsmithing school but I have never seen that jig. So cool!
I picked that little jig up at a yard sale for $1. You could possibly build your own though (hmmm maybe that should be a video).
Wet and dry emery paper. You need water to aid in the polishing.
good idea thank you
Thanks for posting the video, i've inherited a very rusty set of chisels!
Make sure to remove as much rust as possible first or it will clog up your sandpaper. A wire brush or wire wheel works great.
cheers, i used wire wool to get most of the rust off,
Well, I was waiting for you to show me how sharp the chisel was but no, you did not, so I have to believe the chisel is still dull.
All the best, Edgar
Nice Video man I bought an old Stanley no5 off Ebay, The blade was lets say Crap, Used this method now it cuts great nice and sharp.
Ahh, the no5. Love that plane. it is very versatile. Glad this method worked for you.
Great vid. Well explained.
Thanks for checking it out!
Do you remove the bur you made on the flat side? If so at what point do you do that?
only part of the chisel you need to sharpen is 1/8 of the blade,25 degrees and finish 30 degrees
I like the kind of finish a wire wheel gives
JC Denton it is called Brushed Finish 😀
I can understand that having stones is nice, but with that glass plate on hand I would simply get some super high grid polishing film - 3M micro or what ever is available. These polishing films and papers come in higher grids then many expansive stones out there for a fraction of the cost.
I've thought about buying a set of stones, but can never pull the trigger on them.
+ASliceofWoodWorkshop Hands down - I'm a bit of a stone collecting nerd and I know all the trouble that comes along with them when it comes to tool sharpening. Even hard natural stones need a slight plaining before each use as other prep steps. And knowing the ease of use with abrasive films on hard surfaces. They can last you for a couple blades as long you drag and not push edge into them. On the low grids you might get away with pushing the edge forward without cutting into the surface, yet the higher the grid gets the more likely destroy surface and edge by doing so. I got into stones because I wanted to master the old fashion way and on some tools it creates a better edge, but the glass&abrasive method is the more economical way in any aspect.
Have you thought about making wooden handles for such tools?
I would use a touch of water on that sand paper
Cool videos. On a sidenote I'd say stick with the scary sharp method. Real stones by comparison are expensive and require more maintenance. I like to use spray adhesive and large(12") pieces of marble or stone tile for my carving knives. On the water issue, I've heard good results with water with a couple drops of dish soap in it.
You could try using the glass for final grit.
You're suppose to use thick tempered glass along with liquid on the sand paper. Believe it or not windex works best it helps lubricate.
+joe brown never thought about using windex. Thanks for the tip.
The glass cleaner has two ingredients that make it work well for this, a surfactant that attaches to the bits of metal and a detergent that raises the surface tension of the water to keep the bits floating around instead of laying on the surface. I like wd40 also. You have to wipe it off more frequently though.
Thanks for the demo, I didn't know you could use sand paper like that. My daughter used my brand new Dewalt chisel to pull some nails. Do you have an easy way to get the dings out too?
The best thing to do with chipping is grind it down until you have a flat front edge and all the chipping is gone. remember to keep hitting it with water so it doesn't over heat and lose its temper. After you get the front flat, start using the sand paper (80 grit) until you get your point again. It is a lot of work.
***** Okay, thanks. Fortunately, I remembered that my brother-in-law has machine tools available to him, since his father who recently passed away has an old machine works shop. :)
well that's great news (not the death) that you have that kind of access.
***** Also, you can use a technique called lapping, which is using sandpaper, starting with a 120 grit, on a sheet of glass or marble. I prefer doing sharpening away from power tools. It's too easy to overheat and ruin a tool that way.
We know that the sheets of both materials are precisely made to be flat and true, so the only "skill" relies in holding the chisel at the factory-set edge - when I make chisels, I set a 30 degree cutting edge, which appears to be the standard. Move the chisel back and forth on the lapping plate, using liberal amounts of oil, and begin working your way through the grits up to about 800.
For the dings, you can hold the chisel perpendicular to the glass, and grind away, then thin out the edge as mentioned above. Once the edge is clean, switch to a slightly higher angle, and place a few strokes on the very tip of the cutting edge, this is creating a "microbevel", and you want it to be the most finely polished part of your chisel - I like around 2,000 grit.
Lastly, do a few strokes on the backside of the chisel, to remove any burr.
We all make mistakes though. When I was younger, I remember using my dad's $60 wood chisel to do some unruly things with metal and.. *gulp*.. Stone..
Hope all works out for you.
Tr0llz0rLP Thanks for the instructions. I do love working with my hands. I should probably try this on some of my old chisels that were my father-in-law's. I will admit that I used them wrongly a time or two before I realized what they were really meant for.
Just for info, the recommended movement for sharpening most tools is a figure 8 pattern... AND, be careful with sharpened chisels, they can be one of the most dangerous things in your workshop! They will cut clean through a shoe and toe if they fall off a bench by accident!
agreed i was taught figure of 8 to many years to mention
The first Chisels I ever sharpened were for a stringed Instrument luthier friend of mine, he entrusted me with his Inherited set of Chisels passed down from his Grandfather when I commented how dull they were. I used one of those plastic sharpening clamps on them, and finished by stropping with Leather, then a light strop on a strap of rubber(a trick I learned when sharpening scalpels for a Veterinarian) and that set of Chisels was ready for another 80 years of use...
thank you for sharing your knowledge sir.
You are certainly welcome!
Figure of 8 was only needed to keep 'stones' reasonably flat.
It is NOT needed for flat paper sharpening.
In fact reciprocating motion is far better, across the whole sheet, using BOTH hands for stability. This guy will never get a sharp edge as he has not polished the BACK to a suitable finish and is sloppy on setup.
spray adhesive for paper
USE PSA PAPER SELF ADHESIVE** YOU CAN NOT SEE THE CUTTING EDGE OF A SHARP CHISEL**NO LIGHT REFLECTED*** DR KEL
never gone past 1000 grit for a sandstone or diamond stone. 1000 gives it a nice polish enough for what I have to do... should only really polish it out nicely if you're doing fine carpentry or bespoke. for everyday industrial use just go up to a thousand
.
Where do you get your higher grit sandpaper?
Woodcraft is the best place I've found for it.
Also try your closest auto body shop, many of those smaller grits are used in auto refinishing. And try a long piece of rubber glued down to a piece of wood for final finishing, I used to resharpen scalpels for a veterinarian and that is what I used for the final finishing...
It looks like someone at one time put a back-bevel on that chisel. That'll take tons of work to get out.
may need smoothing and flatening the back of the back of the chisel
Shame you didn't show how blunt/sharp it was before you started and after you finished.
In this video, I show you the results of sharpening the same Stanley Contractor grade 2" width chisel properly after a regrind, though I've only been doing it for 34 years myself! th-cam.com/video/ITU3M5-JdmM/w-d-xo.html
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Have you thought about making wooden handles for such tools?
I'm in the process of getting setup to make a set of chisels in the forge including wooden handles.
Sweet can't wait for those videos
That would be a total waste of time and energy. The Stanley # 60C shown in this tutorial is a superb general-purpose chisel. I bought a set in 1974 when I was starting out in the trade, and still have them today. The polymer handle and steel ‘strike button’ are a perfect match for use with a 20 oz hammer.my chisels are significantly shorter, of course, after all these years of working as a highly skilled cabinet and furniture maker relying on a lot of hand work. I do have higher quality harder and tougher chisels that I use more frequently, and most of them were made in Sheffield in the late 1800s