Chisel Sharpening
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ก.ย. 2011
- Deneb adds to our sharpening videos with showing our method of putting a razor edge on chisels. It is a simple and extremely effective way to get a sharp edge quickly. For more on our chisels, click here: www.lie-nielsen.com/nodes/408...
If you would like to download a PDF copy of our Sharpening Instructions or plans for our Angle Setting Jig please click this link to visit the Sharpening section of our website:
www.lie-nielsen.com/nodes/411...
Deneb is always great at calmly presenting a topic and evokes a lazy Sunday afternoon evenly pursuing one's craft! He's 10 years ago young here and is surely a bit grayer these days but then aren't we all. Cheers Deneb!
Got some water stones, a lap plate and a honing guide from Veritas. Had NEVER sharpened a chisle before in my life. My chisle looked like a mirror when I was finished and had the micro bevel. I could not believe how sharp the tool was. Must have done something right......just took my time and worked carefully. Now my hinge recesses are looking great.
So much control and clarity of reasoning applied to, what was,a mysterious art for a beginner sharpener of bulky Japanese framing chisels. Definitely will follow Derek’s guidelines. Thank you so much from U.K.
I keep coming back to watch this video again and again as it refreshes the information and puts you in the right mind set to do a session of sharpening and ensures you have a good outcome if you follow the process. Thanks again.
Deneb - thank you! It is always a joy to watch your videos and to imbibe from the fruits of your experience and wisdom.
Thank you so much for this very clear and helpful teaching -- and it's ingenious in its ability to add some sense and strategy to a couple of things I wouldn't have guessed on my own. Thanks too for the angle-setting jig! I've made a couple of small jigs, but this whole "station" is so much better! Thank you, Deneb, and everyone at Lie-Nielsen -- keep teaching us!
Thank you! This was about the simplest explanation of the sharpening process I have seen. What stones to use, when to use them, etc... Nice tutorial!
Excellent tutorial, well presented in an un-hurried clear concise way. Thanks for taking the time to do this.
Always a great demo to watch. Been using this method for years now
I have used Deneb's method to sharpen my chisels and my planes and believe me, they are sharp and work well thus making my wood working experience a more positive one! Thanks Deneb for your video's. Dad's ol' planers are put in use again and are sharp. A blade slipped out of my hand and hit my finger, put quite a nasty cut in my finger just from the weight. I think it was ready! I've used it and planes quite nice! Can see through the chips and they are even! I've also seen your work in a magazine of tuning up wood working tools which I keep close.
Why are people getting so offended by the fact that some people spend so much on woodworking equipment? Woodworking is like a lot of things: Buy the best tools you can and learn how to do the job as well as possible. If that's a $40 set of cheap-o chisels, then fine. If you really need a new set of $400 chisels, then fine. Sure tons of people out there spend a pile of money but never develop the skills to use them. They don't understand that no amount of glitsy tools will fix their garbage technique or lack of fundamentals and discipline to get good enough to see the difference high-end tools can deliver. But it is usually a better move to get good stuff that will last. I try to spend my time wisely and learn as much as I can so my joints will work well, look great, and allow me to maximize my quality time in the shop. Simple. This is all independent of budget and has a lot more to do with willingness to learn and improve.
Eric Johnson Well said. Buy a tool once.
Pure jealousy.
Great Video Deb! Thank for all the advise, I'm off to the workshop to polish my chisels!
What a pleasure to watch this video; I did not expect that!
Precision at a speed, that you can actually follow and you have time to think "why is he doing this and what is happening?", the answers get to you in time for the details to sink in.
I wish we had more Lie-Nielsen dealers in Europe (I know you can get some tools in Sweden and the UK, but the price is higher than in the United States due to shipping and import fees added on top of shipping, so if you want to purchase a $100 tool, you may end up paying $155 for it here).
That was really good and extremely useful. It was also good it didn’t come off like an infomercial even though I have every intention buying a set of Lie-Nielsen soon.
You are very welcome. We will be adding more soon.
Excellent video and techniques. Thanks
Very helpful video. My chisel sharpening is now excellent, and I am getting an incredibly sharp edge on them. My user skills absolutely suck big time. As can be shown from the large & deep chisel cuts on my hands.
Thanks for the knowledge, really enjoyed this extremely informative video ! Keep up the good work..Cheers
Just bought that Jig. Called "honing guide mj-817". I'm in Australia so it might be called something else where you are from. Brilliant idea setting the stops for quick and accurate angles. Thanks for the video!
One of the best,if not the best sharpening video I've seen.
Just for those of you that watched this video and thought about the cost of buying all the shit to sharpen the expensive non flat chisel, you can do all the same stuff with shitty cheap chisels, sand paper and a piece of glass you get out of a cheap photo frame. From memory there is an awesome woodworker on youtube called Paul Sellers that does a video on sharpening a set of shit Aldi chisels to razor sharp using the method I mentioned above
+Andrew Whitburn You can make any brand of chisel very sharp but for how long going to stay sharp??. You pay for performance.... Carpenters need both cheap and expensive tools for them work. I'm happy with my sharpening water stone and my LN or Veritas and my vintage Stanley wood tools its just fun to work with.
yeah I can understand what you mean about the performance. What I find though is that if you can't afford really good tools that hold a good edge longer, a compromise that seems to work on cheaper chisels is to just strop more often. That takes not much time to do and saves time having to go back and totally re-sharpen.
Paul Sellers has more than 50 years experience and is highly skilled. He paid nine pounds for a set of Aldi chisels and said they retained their edge very well although they did take a fair bit of work to prepare.
+Joshua Rosen Paul Sellers use Ashley Iles chisels and Veritas saw most of his videos both of this tools pretty expensive. you can make any steel super sharp. You can buy old Corolla or new BMW both will make you go home my friend, but how you drive it well that's another story. you got what you pay for
AS you mentioned him this was Paul Sellers thoughts on the matter "Interesting point and comment. Here are some thoughts though. Tools can
look beautiful and very tempting, but I worry that my readers might
think expensive chisels are the only way to go, or, worse still, that
they are necessary for fine work and that’s not true at all. I cut
dovetails just as well with $2 chisels as I do with $90 ones. Only a few
of my blog readers could afford expensive chisels regardless of who the
maker is and I feel compelled to offer practical and inexpensive
solutions as practical alternatives for the everyday guys. This is in no
way some kind of moral high ground. I often worry that woodworking
often tilts more toward an elitist group with very expensive tools that
create an illusional fantasy based on looks and impressional
collectivity alone rather than an enjoyable way of working with your
hands. I do however appreciate your sharing your thoughts and
suggestions though. We are a global entity and advisory resource now,
with a following in every corner of the world and my worry as always
will be what can people get their hands on to make wood work? Just my
concerns that’s all. Please keep commenting." (Paul Sellers)
@sombu65
We have it available on the sharpening section of our website.
@siouxsettewerks Thanks for that. We have done that in the past, but you may be surprised how many calls we get saying the link isn't working properly... it is enough to not post them. However, I do tend to send the links to the person requesting them in a PM.
Wonderful video good info for/over the sharping.
Bevel angels is well done very useful.
THNXS for your time and this great video.
Greetzz from holland
I suppose........if you're building grand pianos, or the wooden version of the space shuttle. I don't think I need the flat perfectly flat to mortise out a strike or a hinge. I seriously admire the dedication, knowledge, and precision.
@Pat Mahon Not as good as his! LOL....
Thank you, Deneb. As usual, your tutorials on the honing guide andd the chisel sharpening were great.
1. Fortunately, on a prior recommendation by you regarding a carving ax, I already have a chipbreaker file. I had bought a used Eclipse honing guide; do the same modifications apply?
2. I don't have a DMT Lapping plate. The cost is a bit of a whack. I do have a Norton flattening stone and a full range of DMT 8" x 3" bench plates. Would any of these do the flattening job on my water stones?
3. And last, the "download plans for our sharpening board" don't seem to be linked properly on your website (error message). The sharpening board looks like a very handy jib for using the eclipse. As a retired web guy, I'd figure a prod to your webmaster might get that fixed.
Thanks again. You never disappoint.
Jeff Polaski
Nice work !!!
I use the same amount of pressure forward and backward. It's hard to tell someone how much pressure, but I use just enough pressure to hold the blade surface flat to the stone surface at all times. Just like most things, you let the tools do the work. However, evenly applied pressure is more important. If you put all of the pressure in one area, it will hone only that area of the blade. Keep a close eye on your progress when you first start out until you get the feel for it. Just try it.
Great video.
would you say using the tormek system to regrind these chisels would be ok
Wow, such meticulous care and attention. I now feel guilty about my chisels stuffed in a bag with hammers and other junk.
Hehe
@daveawebber
If you are talking about what is on the stones, it is just water.
I saw your vídeo and I would like to know how did you define the distance from the edge for your's series of stop on the sharpening station? Do you have a vídeo that explain how to construct a plataform like that?
Most of the time, my system consists of buying budget Stanley bench chisels, completely ignoring the flatness of the back, not even thinking about the concept of "polish", and occasionally using a hand file on the bevel with absolutely no sense of methodical precision. And only doing this when there are chips and butterknife dull edges. I'm starting to wonder if my lack of technique has something to do with the shitty results of my woodworking.
LOL
LOL. Best Comment I've read today. So true...for all of us.
Did that for years. I even polished mine with an air tool used for auto body use. I have some REALLY expensive chisels and sharpening them often takes longer than the project. But they stay sharp longer and give MUCH better results.
LOL I’m going out on a limb and say it likely is a factor.
Hilarious!
@@joshjenkinson1929 Too Funny, we're all in that boat at the beginning!
@BFITZY95
Probably rip a board with a table saw a little proud of an 1/8". Then take that slat and plane it down to 1/8". Remember, it doesn't have to be dead on, as long as you are using that shim when ever needed, the key is that it is repeatable. Repeatability is what keeps you sharp and gets you there fast.
Hey, great instructions thanks! Though when I use an 1/8” slat for secondary bevel on a 1/“4” it basically becomes the primary. This is using 35 degree as primary (using lower jaw on the faux eclipse) and then adding the 1/4” for secondary. Am I doing this correct?
Excellent video :-)
thank you for the lesson, I needed a refresher course... I have only a 4000 waterstone and can really see the difference between 8000 and 4000... I need to get an 8000 waterstone...
Did u?
I am crap at woodwork but an excellent chisel sharpener!
Do you have any suggestions for sharpening a convex finger plane blade?
Thanks
If I wanted to flatten my stones with sand paper and a granet, what coarse of paper would I use? I cann't afford the diamond setup at this time.
Do you normally stop at 8,000 grit for both your chisel and hand plane sharpening? And, do the secondary bevel using the 8k grit also?
This video helps a lot but my one question is how much pressure do you put on the chisel or plane iron and do you apply the same amount of pressure going backwards as you do forwards.
Random question. By cycling through, using the method here, are you not removing more material from the first part of the blade? By not running the whole length with each pass, but only with the last few passes is it not wearing unevenly? And if not, how? Is there a benefit to the staggered pattern?
Would a different sharpening guide have avoided the need to change the original bevel with sandpaper? Informative. Thanks.
I've seen that stop jig at a lie-nielsen show, but I have no idea how to make it. That would be a helpful video.
@LieNielsenToolworks can u give me the specs or some plans for the waterstone holder/ bevel angle jig?
Any other ways off flattening the stone as I can not afford the lapping plate tks
What is the rationale for your preference of sandpaper over a 320 stone for more aggressive removal, i.e re-establishing a bevel? It has been my experience that automotive wet/dry sandpaper (i.e. 320) is useless after just a few strokes. Are low grit stones too hard to keep flat? Is your sandpaper better than than mine?
So before you do any woodworking you need to buy some chisels. Before you use the chisels you need to buy a bunch of sandpaper. Before you use the sandpaper you need to buy a perfectly flat piece of granite.
Once you got the granite, sandpaper, and chisels, you want to make a secondary bevel.
So before you do any woodworking with your chisel, you need to buy a bunch of sharpening stones. Before you use the sharpening stones, you need to buy a diamond-back sharpening plane.
Once you got the granite, sandpaper, chisels, sharpening stones, and diamond-back plane, you put a secondary bevel on your chisels.
Then when you put everything back to start working on your wood, you accidentally drop all the chisels on the ground, dulling the edge. Why? Because your hands are numb and sore from spending hours soaking in grit-filled water pressing down on cold steel.
Well,yes in a way......however if one was to carefully defend those pristine edges and just touch them up occasionally, all that initial stuff could be forgotten. My main concern is just how much one could end up spending for the whole works you mention here.! Several hundred easily I would think.
( Even if purchased at other than Lie-Nielsen.)
crillside
Well sure, if you have thousands and thousands of dollars to spend on an all-Lie-Nielsen tool selection.
crillside
Read the comment I was replying to. "Beginning" woodworkers.
Unless you want to make woodworking into an elitist hobby only for the rich.
In any case, no matter how good or expensive your tools are, you will eventually have to do the sharpening and maintenance. And that demands a lot of accessories and time and effort.
My original post was just a joke. If you get tired from sharpening just go relax a bit. No need to work yourself so much that you drop all the irons and chisels.
Seth T
Do you enjoy commenting without reading the message and understanding the context? Well then, gay dolphins jump through hoops to fly into space!
20 dollar chisels notwithstanding, if you buy a full suite of Lie Nielsen tools it will set you back several thousand dollars (saws, chisels, planes, routers, work tables, clamps, and accessories). Also good luck sharpening those chisels on thin air.
Pretending Lie Nielsen tools are just as cheap as 20 dollar chisels is just silly. Not every beginning woodworking wants to drop several grand for a hobby they might not know much about.
Seth T And if you read my comment you'll realise I was addressing another commenter that suggested buying only Lie Nielsen tools due to the quality. I replied that woodworking is not only a hobby for the rich so that might not be the best option.
Then you jumped in and decided your opinion is important regardless of context or preceding scenario. And I wrote something about dolphins.
You happy now?
You seem to be putting your force into the pulling stroke rather than the push stroke. Why? Does it make any difference? Also, where do you get this adhesive sandpaper in rolls?
Ahhhhhh crud I now need to rethink about everything I've done to my chisels. I've a stone next to my lathe with rounded indents from gouges sharped for years, I just spit into the indent and sharpen. I feel guilty now.
I cannot find the link either for the jig. Anywhere else I can find it please?
Chris
I'm inspired
Great video, thank you!! What grit / brand is that diamond lapping (flattening) stone you're using?
it's a lapping plate. about 220-325 depending who u get it from.
Why re-work the entire bevel surface when you end up adding a micro bevel? Seems superfluous.
click the 'show more' button to see the link to the jig.
I have one of those honing guides but with no instructions. Excellent video which shows me how to modify and use it. Only trouble is you didn't mention the measurements of your stop blocks for the various bevel angles. Perhaps you could post these? Many Thanks.
the stop block distance depends on each particular guide. my suggestion would be to make a wood chisel with a 45 degree angle and place it into the guide and see where the stop block would have to be for 45 degrees. then do a 30 degree angle wooden chisel and again put that into the guide and see where the stop block would need to be placed to make the chisel fit flush to the table. I don't know how you would measure the in between angles but you could probably guess close enough. on the other hand I'm sure there are marks on the guide for the various angles. once a chisel is sharp, and while it's still in the guide, you can use it to set the stop block for the next time you want that angle. I'm sure that's all he did...just to save the trouble of lining things up by eye.
Does your honing guide have an angle jig, like the Veritas MkIi?
FrankEdavidson
No. It has markings on the side which relate to angles when you clamp your chisel in place. Hadn't noticed them before. However, I did the mods as per the video to improve the clamping and it now works a treat. Gives consistent angle and sharpens chisels and plane blades perfectly. I used carborundum grit paper (wet and dry) on a flat surface - now an excellent tool. Hope this helps.
Depending on the clamping mechanism, the stop block distance can also depend on the thickness of the blade. If you clamp the non-edge part to the jig, the thickness matters. If you clamp the edge part (i.e. back) up against a bar, that problem goes away.
And if being a perfectionist, you really need to adjust the jig to the finishing angle, not the starting angle. As the sharpening removes some of the tip, it shortens the blade, which changes the angle. Aggressive sharpening using a single-roller jig thus always creates a rounded bevel, not a truly straight one. You need a dual roller with a spring loaded cart to get a truly flat bevel.
Or a decade of experience of doing it by hand.
so using the diamind plate to flatten the stones is fine but not to sharpen your chisels?
what is the lubricating fluid that you are using ....
sir i want to know how can i buy the diamon flating plate
Absolutely, I added a link to the description of the video. It should get you the PDF of the plans. Thanks so much, and let me know if you need anything else.
Very detailed video, my video makes me look like a true wood butcher :)
Hi. I may be being either blind or stupid but I can't find the link for the PDF plans anywhere. What I'm really interested in is the distance of the stops from the edge to get the different bevel angles.
Thanks for the videos.
After watching this I feel compelled to confess that I am a serial chisel torturer/murderer. I don't know that my new knowledge will keep me from killing again, but I'll do it with a new sense of guilt.
Dave Hart chuckle
You are not alone Dave,.....
I’m confused why this is such a process on a brand new chisel I do similar after dulling a chisel but every brand new chisel I’ve ever bought is a 2 minute honing job on a 10k stone just to polish a bit makes it a shade more slick but I’ve never had to rebevel a brand new chisel
@sombu65 Sorry, I'd give you the link but TH-cam doesn't allow that anymore I guess.
Need a little help if possible. I just received my first Lie-Nielsen 1/4" bevel edge socket chisel in the mail today. Could not wait to give it a test run so I put the handle on by rapping the bottom on my workbench & got to work cleaning out some dove tails. Of course, the shank came loose from the handle and struck my garage cement floor. I now have a little chip in the center of the edge tip. Strange place for a chip but I would like to know how I should repair my new chisel? Any assistance will be greatly appreciated!
@Pat Mahon Thank you for your reply. I do not have a grinder but I did do a lot of honing on my diamond stones. Not perfect but a bit better. I think I need to give it another go.
How is the distance set on the wooden angle stops?
Is the granite under the sandpaper just garden variety granite, or more like a piece from a Starett super flat reference granite slab?
If you have to ask, you can't afford it.
any polished piece of granite. the one i have, came from a throw out bin at a countertop store.
Well done presentation. Thank you. The only problem it is too dark and a bit difficult to see details. You may use better light next time.
hi.thanks for the video.just wondering is it special lliquit or just a water when you spray laping diamont after used it? thanks
H20
SO what grit wet or dry paper would one use to flatten an 8000 grit waterstone? Thank you
any lower grit. just clean after
Great video. I really appreciate Lie Nielsen taking the time to do this, as I own some of their tools and sharpening is critical to proper use. Quick question: You mention that you prefer to use sandpaper vs a 220 grit wet stone. Why?
Question 🙋♂️ I’m getting into woodworking for the first time…I was given an old Stanley no4 bench-plane in really bad condition, I’ve successfully restored it and just needed a new Iron, I’ve sharpened the 25* bevel but do you add a secondary 30* as well or do you just do that on chisels? 🤓
Ok if u like
I also think as Brent does. And i can't find an explanation for it in the vid. Yes you're going to move the polish further back with successive sharpenings, but you're still removing more from the tip than the rest each time, and creating an arc down the length of the flat face.
Great video and thanks for the wonderful tips. one question, are you using water or a lapping fluid? I have a $100.00 diamond stone coming and don't want to rust it out. Lapping fluid just seems expensive and they treat it like gold. I understand there is debate on this subject, but like multiple opinions from experience folks, like yourself. Thanks in advance...
Water
Excellent video and tips !
Q: Does the grit of a stone correspond to the grit on sandpaper ? ....meaning is 2000 grit sandpaper the same grit as a 2000 grit stone ?
Ye
Hi, can you please provide some details (brand name, model ) about the lapping plate that you are using for flattening your stones. I am highly interested.
thanks
Google it
How do you establish the distance of the stops for the angles?
The distances are provided with the honing guide. For the old style inexpensive guide in use here the number are stamped on the guide. For the yet to be produced LN guide the distances of the stop from the edge of the board for each bevel angle is provided in accompanying literature.
Thanks.
“on and off the stone .. so that I don't crown the back of the blade” But crowning the front is okay? Or is this just the best possible method though not perfect?
“create some sort of a cup by working off of the back of the stone” - I think this is what we're saying. At some point one IS removing material from the centre (which in itself would cup that centre). But that whole time, AND before, one is also working the front of the chisel. Which would create the opposite of a cup overall.
The board/slate ?? your using to flatten the stone. How do you ensure that itself is flat and what is it made from?
+Tech Tins, it is a diamond lapping plate. They are dead flat. The one I have is flat within 0.0005 across the entire length/width.
They start out dead flat, but they don't always stay that way. The diamond is just a dusting on the surface, but the frame itself can bend and warp a tiny bit with time, use and abuse, just like any other surface. There are methods for truing a diamond lapping plate, but you need extra equipment costing far more than a new plate. Most diamond lapping plates should stay true enough for quite a few years, so it's not something worth doing for most of us.
Why didn’t you use a Lie-Nielsen honing guide?
When you said you had to "lap" the stone and you rubbed the larger piece across your stone (I assume to maintain the stones level?), what was that larger piece called and what it is made of? Does that come with a sharpening kit?
a lapping plate. diamond plate.
Jacob Mortensen Ok, thanks.
Do mortise chisels need a micro or secondary bevel @ 30°?
If it helpz
Great video and a really informative PDF as well! I was just wondering how you made the 1/8inch shim though? I haven't thought of a sensible way of doing it...
so the new chisel was not flat when u got it and u had to flatten it ?
They're "factory flat", and "factory sharp" which is to say neither very flat nor very sharp.
Because most woodworkers will want to bevel and hone any new tool to preference anyhow, it doesn't seem like a good move to employ skilled workers to spend a lot of time on every chisel, increasing the cost of manufacture and thus the cost of sale.
For lower priced chisels than this, most new ones also have a thin layer of some lacquer or protectant on the surface, so they can hang unsold on the wall for some time without corroding. Store clerks aren't going to go oil every individual tool every so often. But that also means you're expected to at the very least hone them before use, to remove that protection and expose the metal.
+Art Heen. I have several LN planes and chisels, and all of them were razor sharp and ready for use when they arrived. No doubt the experienced user will touch them up before using, but for my purposes, they are ready to use straight from the box.
This was not the case with a four-piece mortise chisel set I bought from my local hardware store for €30. They were nearly exactly as you described and would cut only because of the mechanical advantage of being mostly wedge shaped at one end. After an hour of cleaning, sharpening, and honing, they were ready for action. After a few hours of cutting pine, the 10mm chisel was dull again and needed sharpening. Fortunately, this only took about five minutes since it now had a nice bevel.
For a hobbyist, the €30 set will work as long as expectations are under control and I'm willing to cut, cut, cut, sharpen, cut, cut, cut, sharpen...and so on. At my age, time is one resource I have less of and I prefer to put more cuts between the sharpening.
I am not sure why these chisels need such a precision process? I never seem to use a wood chisel to do delicate or precision work (except sculpter type ones). I suspect this may be for folks that minimize the use of power tools. A brand new highdollar chisel that needs manual flatening? Quality video !
+David Clink I spend time sharpening my chisels for wood carving...and it really is worth the effort to get a razor edge...just makes the whole carving process easier, more precise and more enjoyable. But I agree that chisels for carpentry don't need to be quite as sharp as they aren't really used in a precision manner
What!!!! Are you for real? Not used in a "precision manner"... I suggest you go and look at some well made furniture and check out the joints.
+Andrew Whitburn Keep in mind that there are paring chisels, which should be kept very sharp so that they can scrape material from dovetails and the sides of mortises, and then there are the chisels which you hit with a mallet to chop out thicker cuts on your projects. There are reasons for that level of sharpening care.
@LieNielsenToolworks You can fool the url sensing by only putting the end of the adress. (getting rid of the stuff up to the first dot in the url)
and by replacing the dot in dot com, or dot uk, or dot whatever by dot, in plain letters.
The reader then only has to copy the 'defaced' adress in his browser, and just revert dot to .
Also, I'd be interested in your answer to @sombu65 too!
Why would you work the whole back side when you can just shape the top bevel?
When you do things like mortising, the edges of the back being flat is very important.
But even if you never use the flat side, you still need to flatten the area near the edge, because that's one of the two surfaces that makes the edge. If either one of them isn't flat, the edge won't be flat either.
I'd even go one step further than this video, and strop the back.
Thank you for this. But my goodness.... woodworking has some seriously weird terms. Who comes up with these things?
This taught me something-it is easier to buy new then go through this!
Did you miss the part where he pulled it out of the wrapping paper.....as in the damn thing WAS NEW!!!
Did anyone find it strange that he sharpened the bevel on the 220 sandpaper, moved on to the 400 then went back to 220 and repeated a few times...
I've heard it being done that way because it is easier than trying to remove 220 scratches all at once. They can get too deep and take even more time to remove with 400 grit if you spend too much time on 220 grit.
Hi
I bought a 10000 grit Japanese water stone and it claimed to give a mirror finish. This was a very expensive stone! I tried to finish my chisels and my plane irons on it and I continues to finish with a blurry finish, smudged?
Can anyone help?
First of all, a Japanese 10,000 grit is nothing near a Western 10,000 grit. Two different scales, much like 10 centimeters is not like 10 inches.
Secondly, with traditional Japanese water stones, you need a secondary stone called a "Nagura stone", which you rub against your water stone to create a slurry. This slurry comes from the water stone itself, and not the Nagura stone, and it's this slurry that does the polishing.
Thirdly, you cannot go directly to a 10,000 grit. You have to go through several lower grits first, or else you'll just be polishing the "mountain tops" on your metal. You'll get a very shiny finish at around 800 grit, a reflective chrome-like finish at around 2,000 grit, a mirror-like finish at around 4,000-6,000 grit. Which is comparable to your 10,000 Japnese water stone.
If the metal is rough, you may want to start even lower, like 400 grit or even 220. But working your way up is key. Don't switch to the next higher grit until it's as good as it gets on the lower grit..
Yeah, the Japanese grit is in metric...
"I'll just balance my $400 Bench Rabbet plane here on the window sash. There. That oughta do. No harm will befall it now."
I think it is just carved into the window
Why are those plane floats hanging on the wall behind him so big?
I think it's a picture of plane floats
If that’s all I had to do that would be fun. I have a Tormek sharpener that does a great job. The average woodworker or carpenter has no need to be s precise!!!!
Personally I use a JET whetstone system. Easy peasy, nice and sharpy. Takes about 30 seconds. Job done till I drop it. Good vid though
I know what you mean.
"ok, I'm starting woodworking, what do I need, I'll just go on the internet and see"
......
"oh"
*gives up woodworking*
That squeezy bottle sounds like a duck being rogered by a pig?
Applying the ruler trick with a 0.5mm thick ruler across a 50mm stone gives an angle of 0.6 degrees. If this is extended to a 1mm wide"back-bevel" that results in 0.01 mm deviation in flatness over that 1mm wide surface. That is less than 0.4 Thousandths of an inch and is significantly smaller than ANY knife line and will make effectively ZERO difference to your paring of a flat surface in wood or the use of that surface in joinery.