For those like me, NOT appliance repair experts, just thought I would point out one very important, not to be over-looked detail of this video. When installing, do not take the block all the way down to the absolute bottom of the shaft. I did that because there was 1/2" of space when I had it flush at the top. I figured it would have to be all the way down and the end result of doing that was the entire inner tub gets "locked" in place. So don't do that! : ) Matt is the pro, listen to him!
Great video series and information! Thanks! I've never worked on a washing machine before, but, after having the usual problems and seeing your videos, I got the replacement parts and well,.....easy fix! Thanks so much. A grand total of 45 minutes of my time was required to replace the drive block and clutch ( figured I'd cover both "possibles" and just do one repair session : ) Thanks again and keep up the awesome work!
First, let me say that I found this video extremely helpful. Good job! But... It took me 7 hours to complete this job and replace the drive basket. I'm a very mechanically inclined guy and I haven't hired out any repair since about 2001 (ANY repair, to anything) and I can safely say I'll never touch a washing machine again. Every single step was an absolute horror show on mine. It took me over an hour just to get the drive nut off, another hour+ to get the drive block out, and a full 3 hours to get the case back on the stupid thing. As soon I took it off it must have sprung out of shape because the only way I was ever able to get it back together was to get one side situated and then run a self tapping screw into the frame, then repeat on the other side... It also didn't help that my case was rusted through in the lower bottom corners (which I didn't know anything about until I was neck deep in the job). I'm not 100% sure how old my machine is or what kind of life it had before me (came with the house), but the steel inside it was date coded for 1997. I would highly suggest if your machine is as old as mine simply replacing it. I spent about $100 on parts and damn near a full work shift worth of time to put them in. I could have spent that time at work and just bought a new one. Not worth it. If your machine is maybe 1/2 that age and you're having issues, I'd probably tell you to go for it, but with mine being 20 years old everything was just a seized together hulk of jagged metal. I have made my mind up that when it dies again, that's it.
I have disassembled a very similar whirlpool washer to that in the video. My washer is Whirlpool LSB6500PW2. I've been reviewing the parts diagrams you have for this washer on your website and the various videos. They're really a big help! I've been having a hard time understanding which components move when in agitation mode and which components move when in spin mode. The role of the clutch and brake are also not clear to me. Do you folks have a video that might help? Thanks!!!
Hm. I don't think we have a video that would help with that, but maybe we could help you out with any trouble you're having. We offer free technical advice and diagnosis. You can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/.
I cant get the spanner nut off the drive block.Ive been hammering the spanner wrench for a while and noticed its all spinning together when I hit it with a hammer. It looks like the drive block looks fine.I can see the groves connecting it to the brake properly..I wonder why it keeps spinning when I try to losen it? Any ideas??Thanks in advance
What kind of grease and how much do you put under the drive block on that shaft before putting drum back on? There seems to be a couple of tablespoons of grease. I am correct? Or is this just soap scum that got wet from soaking it with vinegar and silicon spray? It is a whirlpool LA7000XTWO super capacity 1989 My washer is 26 year years old and replacing the slider tube and drive block. I am cleaning all soap scum and old grease cause it has lots of build up. Also replaced dog ears and couplers. Thank you
+Nick Smith There might be a little bit of grease left on the seal at the top of the basket drive, like in the video at 4:58, what you are seeing is probably soap and fabric softener scum. You could put a small amount around that seal, not like table spoons just a little dab to help the seal.
Right, the noise playing for a drive block is what our wash sounds just like. So what i'm asking is does my front loader have a drive block like that too.
No front loaders are designs differently, they do not have a drive block. You can go to our website and enter your appliance model number to view the parts breakdowns to be sure you get the correct part for your model and to see how the washer is put together.
We'd be happy to help you out with that, but we'll need more information. We offer free technical advice and diagnosis 7 days a week. You can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/. We will need your model number to give you accurate advice, which you can locate using this tool on our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx
We'd be happy to help you figure out what's causing that problem, but we'll need some additional information about the model and the problem. You can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/. We will need the model number for the appliance, so that we can look up diagrams and information about your specific unit to give you accurate advice. You can look here on our website to help you find the model number: www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx
don't trust them: It doesn't worth the pain to replace those parts, buy their parts, and get involve in so many troubles with those people to change the wrong parts they send you. Better buy a new one. I just bought a new washer for $700, brand new with one year warranty from the store, free shipping and installed. ten years warranty from company: Of course, not the same Brand. I tried to repair this Kenmore 600S and I just spend $240 plus all the pain to replace this and now the part is a wrong one, so tried to figure out HOW MUCH TROUBLE FOR WHAT?
@@appliancepartspros You only care about order #? is your website, your customer services, the way you guys respond, the stupid form you ask to fill out, etc. I though it will be a good idea to buy there but I'm really disappointed 100%. I just did a mistake. I went to Sears and buy the correct part. keep the money
I'm sorry for the problems you have experienced. If you are needing assistance with your order, we will need the order number to look it up so we can help resolve the issue. If you don't have that information we can look it up with the email address you put on the order. Let us know if you still need assistance.
For those like me, NOT appliance repair experts, just thought I would point out one very important, not to be over-looked detail of this video. When installing, do not take the block all the way down to the absolute bottom of the shaft. I did that because there was 1/2" of space when I had it flush at the top. I figured it would have to be all the way down and the end result of doing that was the entire inner tub gets "locked" in place. So don't do that! : ) Matt is the pro, listen to him!
Excellent tutorial at just the right pace, my airline needs to hire this guy to teach ground-school !!!
al robinson Thanks! Glad the video helped you get the washer up and running.
Great video series and information! Thanks! I've never worked on a washing machine before, but, after having the usual problems and seeing your videos, I got the replacement parts and well,.....easy fix! Thanks so much. A grand total of 45 minutes of my time was required to replace the drive block and clutch ( figured I'd cover both "possibles" and just do one repair session : ) Thanks again and keep up the awesome work!
You placed the spanner wrench on so nicely. Perfect alignment.
+J Butera Glad the video helped you get the washer fixed!
+AppliancePartsPros Actually it's still broke, thought it was the motor coupler but noooo....
Great video fantastic job very easy to follow and understand!!
Glad we could help!
First, let me say that I found this video extremely helpful. Good job!
But... It took me 7 hours to complete this job and replace the drive basket. I'm a very mechanically inclined guy and I haven't hired out any repair since about 2001 (ANY repair, to anything) and I can safely say I'll never touch a washing machine again. Every single step was an absolute horror show on mine. It took me over an hour just to get the drive nut off, another hour+ to get the drive block out, and a full 3 hours to get the case back on the stupid thing. As soon I took it off it must have sprung out of shape because the only way I was ever able to get it back together was to get one side situated and then run a self tapping screw into the frame, then repeat on the other side... It also didn't help that my case was rusted through in the lower bottom corners (which I didn't know anything about until I was neck deep in the job).
I'm not 100% sure how old my machine is or what kind of life it had before me (came with the house), but the steel inside it was date coded for 1997. I would highly suggest if your machine is as old as mine simply replacing it. I spent about $100 on parts and damn near a full work shift worth of time to put them in. I could have spent that time at work and just bought a new one. Not worth it.
If your machine is maybe 1/2 that age and you're having issues, I'd probably tell you to go for it, but with mine being 20 years old everything was just a seized together hulk of jagged metal. I have made my mind up that when it dies again, that's it.
Fixed my Whirlpool washer with these very directions. Show the AppliancePartsPro some love and buy from them. I did.
pandasupra Thanks for the purchase!! Glad the video helped you get the washer fixed up!
I have disassembled a very similar whirlpool washer to that in the video. My washer is Whirlpool LSB6500PW2. I've been reviewing the parts diagrams you have for this washer on your website and the various videos. They're really a big help!
I've been having a hard time understanding which components move when in agitation mode and which components move when in spin mode. The role of the clutch and brake are also not clear to me. Do you folks have a video that might help?
Thanks!!!
Hm. I don't think we have a video that would help with that, but maybe we could help you out with any trouble you're having. We offer free technical advice and diagnosis. You can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/.
Why would you want to replace the drive block?
I cant get the spanner nut off the drive block.Ive been hammering the spanner wrench for a while and noticed its all spinning together when I hit it with a hammer. It looks like the drive block looks fine.I can see the groves connecting it to the brake properly..I wonder why it keeps spinning when I try to losen it? Any ideas??Thanks in advance
It may be helpful to have a second set of hands help you out, holding the tub in place to keep it from spinning while you hammer.
What do you do when you ave taken off the spanner nut and the inner tube will not lift out? My whirlpool washer has the same inner parts as your demo.
You can try tapping the inner tub around the drive block area with a rubber hammer, also rock the inner tub back and forth to try and get it free.
Thank you
You're welcome!
How do you replace the part the drive block fits onto (the drive basket)?
I love this dude!
What kind of grease and how much do you put under the drive block on that shaft before putting drum back on? There seems to be a couple of tablespoons of grease. I am correct? Or is this just soap scum that got wet from soaking it with vinegar and silicon spray? It is a whirlpool LA7000XTWO super capacity 1989 My washer is 26 year years old and replacing the slider tube and drive block. I am cleaning all soap scum and old grease cause it has lots of build up. Also replaced dog ears and couplers. Thank you
+Nick Smith There might be a little bit of grease left on the seal at the top of the basket drive, like in the video at 4:58, what you are seeing is probably soap and fabric softener scum. You could put a small amount around that seal, not like table spoons just a little dab to help the seal.
how different is a front load washer to do this to?
A front load washer would be taken apart differently than a top load washer.
Right, the noise playing for a drive block is what our wash sounds just like. So what i'm asking is does my front loader have a drive block like that too.
Sorry I'm under my husbands name and he isn't home yet.
No front loaders are designs differently, they do not have a drive block.
You can go to our website and enter your appliance model number to view
the parts breakdowns to be sure you get the correct part for your model
and to see how the washer is put together.
It seems like my spin nut is stuck to the drive block.
If you cannot get the nut off you may have to cut it and replace the block!
my washer is making noise during wash cycle as if it is struggling to agate
We'd be happy to help you out with that, but we'll need more information. We offer free technical advice and diagnosis 7 days a week. You can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/. We will need your model number to give you accurate advice, which you can locate using this tool on our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx
my washer rattles to much and takes to long to stop
We'd be happy to help you figure out what's causing that problem, but we'll need some additional information about the model and the problem. You can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/. We will need the model number for the appliance, so that we can look up diagrams and information about your specific unit to give you accurate advice. You can look here on our website to help you find the model number: www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx
don't trust them: It doesn't worth the pain to replace those parts, buy their parts, and get involve in so many troubles with those people to change the wrong parts they send you. Better buy a new one. I just bought a new washer for $700, brand new with one year warranty from the store, free shipping and installed. ten years warranty from company: Of course, not the same Brand. I tried to repair this Kenmore 600S and I just spend $240 plus all the pain to replace this and now the part is a wrong one, so tried to figure out HOW MUCH TROUBLE FOR WHAT?
I do apologize for any issues you are having with your order. If you can provide your order number we will be happy to look into this issue for you.
@@appliancepartspros You only care about order #? is your website, your customer services, the way you guys respond, the stupid form you ask to fill out, etc. I though it will be a good idea to buy there but I'm really disappointed 100%. I just did a mistake. I went to Sears and buy the correct part. keep the money
I'm sorry for the problems you have experienced. If you are needing assistance with your order, we will need the order number to look it up so we can help resolve the issue. If you don't have that information we can look it up with the email address you put on the order. Let us know if you still need assistance.
popopopopopopoply
My washer has the control panel on the front, it is a really old washer, smaller size to fit my condo. What do I do then?
Give us a call at 1-877-477-7278, we'll look up your model number and see about the specifics for your model.