My wife has this exact machine, except silver. I noticed today it wasn’t agitating and after watching your video removed the drive block. (I had a spammer and all necessary tools.) Sure enough, the splines on the tub drive block were worn down smooth. Ordered the kit. Thanks for sharing this for the DIY husband!
The plastic OEM ones do not hold up. These are a blessed revision hub kit . Heaven sent saving many washers and customers hard earned money. Absolutely power tools is a no no. I notice you reccomment threadlocker on the agitatorbolt. How about the large hubnut? Any threadlocker on it as well. Had one ( WTW5000DW1) loosen up while testing and it wobbled . Removed again , sure enough the large nut was loose . I retighten it with more umph. Retested wobble gone. Lots of good tips here. Seems i got a tiny leak on right side. Only on full load/highest level. I'm thinking its the air dome? Thanks
When we got to 6:10 with the "you gotta crack the nut" I folded up shop and moved the washer to the curb. My Maytag is twice as old as the one in the video, surely there are not replacement parts. There isn't even a model number to go by!
@@bgrizz7253 Yeah older machines used components that were way over engineered for the applications and most of those machines could and do still run and have for decades with proper care. Today you got 4 different brands selling you the same parts inside from the same factory in china that is making them all and GE, Maytag, whirlpool, Kenmore just paint the outside up and make up marketing crap to sell you over what is essentially identical products not engineered by a reputable brand but assembled from the same parts catalog of a large subsidized Chinese factory that doesn't care if something works, as long as it looks like it might work and cant be held accountable for anything by foreign customers. Good luck filing a lawsuit for that wish product that left you a leg short made by people who have been brainwashed into hating Americans for the last 2 decades.
If you are looking for the drive hub for this model that part number is W10820039. You can place that order through our website, or you can call us at 1-877-477-7278 to place the order over the phone.
You will need to make sure the area around the shaft is cleaned up and no broken pieces are left from the old one, the hub should just slide over the drive block and shaft and then you would screw it down.
@@marcmespelli1106 just learned resetting the washer might help. Something about unplugging for a minute then plug back in and open and close lid while holding power button 6 times might help. I am about to try it here once I am home
Help!! The metal replacement drum kit is sold out everywhere! Is there any chance I can install a plastic one until/if the manufacturer puts out more? Mine is seriously corroded, so my impeller won’t spin.
What are the signs that this needs replacing my whirlpool washer is just like this one and it is making a horrible grinding noise at the end of the spin cycle
There is not one specific penetrating oil that we prefer. If after using the oil it still doesn't break loose, then you are going to take a chisel and a hammer and carefully try to crack in half to get it off the splines. You can see this process starting at 5:42 in the video.
I noticed the drive block has 1 of the 6 triangular shaped tabs that is recessed more. And I also noticed the bottom part of the hub that contacts the drive block has 1 straight tab. Do any of these need to align with anything in any way to work properly? I did not receive the instruction sheet with my kit, so I want to make sure.
I had to do the same thing. When I got under it I find out you cant pull the drive hub off over the shaft to put on the new hub. Wish I can find out if I can repair this.
Those can be tricky to get out, you will need to keep working at it, that wd40 should help loosen it up. Good luck with the repair, let us know if you have any questions!
I Still cant remove the Agitator part after removing the Nut and using pry bars and penetrating Oil " and Not just a "Wiggle-wiggle" technique removal. 😢
Take the metal top of the washer off, then release the plastic cover that surrounds it by carefully prying the retainer tangs out. Pull the cover off and the tub will lift out.
I ordered the drive hub for my washer, however it wont slide down on the shaft an set in place as you show it doing. I'm not sure if I can use something to tap it down? Any thoughts?
You could try making sure everything is really clean and there's no corrosion that's making it not want to slide into place, and tap it into to place. If that doesn't work, you can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/ and we'll help you figure out what's going on.
@appliancepartspros well thanks to all these videos, I just repaired mine which has almost exclusively been used with liquid detergents for 17 years, and it was almost spotless inside. Looked nearly new. Think I'll stick with the liquid detergent!
My drive shaft and agitator were rusted. They were both stripped. I cleaned them off and placed a shim in between to take up the slack. Temp. fix. still working.
You do not need to undo the scanner wrench all you need to do is undo the screws around the scanner nut and lift the whole pices out in one just to save time there
Not if it's seized due to corrosion. Can't lift it up must be careful to break the corrosion in the spline and corresponding parts use a good Penetrating fluid and not WD-40,! LIQUID WRENCH OR EQUIVILENT. This is required if your removing the tub as well.
Seriously guys, nobody needs to watch how to screw screws or plug a machine into the outlet! You exclude valuable info such as why you replace these parts or what the machine was doing to require the repair and include nonsense. Use fewer words, less video and more important details. Be professional!
I dont know man some people dont know the obivious. Is bad its like that sometimes but it is. Especially for newcomers and those less than mechanically inclined. Pros know sure but the others......not so much.
Nothing wrong with being precise with instructions, I'd assume most people watching this are people at home trying to fix their machines themselves. There's literally no downside at explaining a little more. Just fast forward a bit if you don't want to see a certain part
@@DoctorEvil The down-side is showing yourself as unprofessional. So why would anyone waste their time with someone who doesn't understand the basics of editing. Nobody needs to see you run a screwdriver. Just a waste of time.
My wife has this exact machine, except silver. I noticed today it wasn’t agitating and after watching your video removed the drive block. (I had a spammer and all necessary tools.) Sure enough, the splines on the tub drive block were worn down smooth. Ordered the kit. Thanks for sharing this for the DIY husband!
What problem does replacing these parts solve ?
The presenter does an excellent job in showing all the necessary details clearly.
Thank you for the nice video explaining the process. Much appreciated.
You're welcome! If there is anything we can help you with please let us know. Good luck with your repair and let us know how it goes!
Excellent video ! I befitted from seeing some of the real world issues usually left out (like having to split that block). Thanks
You're welcome!
The plastic OEM ones do not hold up. These are a blessed revision hub kit . Heaven sent saving many washers and customers hard earned money. Absolutely power tools is a no no. I notice you reccomment threadlocker on the agitatorbolt. How about the large hubnut? Any threadlocker on it as well. Had one ( WTW5000DW1) loosen up while testing and it wobbled . Removed again , sure enough the large nut was loose . I retighten it with more umph. Retested wobble gone. Lots of good tips here. Seems i got a tiny leak on right side. Only on full load/highest level. I'm thinking its the air dome? Thanks
Should the wash plate move independently from the tub with power off?
My parts are metal similar to as shown. There are plastic parts that are similar, will those work?
When we got to 6:10 with the "you gotta crack the nut" I folded up shop and moved the washer to the curb. My Maytag is twice as old as the one in the video, surely there are not replacement parts. There isn't even a model number to go by!
Old Maytag washers are very different from the newer ones, you made a wise decision.
@@bgrizz7253 Yeah older machines used components that were way over engineered for the applications and most of those machines could and do still run and have for decades with proper care. Today you got 4 different brands selling you the same parts inside from the same factory in china that is making them all and GE, Maytag, whirlpool, Kenmore just paint the outside up and make up marketing crap to sell you over what is essentially identical products not engineered by a reputable brand but assembled from the same parts catalog of a large subsidized Chinese factory that doesn't care if something works, as long as it looks like it might work and cant be held accountable for anything by foreign customers. Good luck filing a lawsuit for that wish product that left you a leg short made by people who have been brainwashed into hating Americans for the last 2 decades.
what are the replacement part numbers? I have whirlpool cabrio wtw8000bw0
If you are looking for the drive hub for this model that part number is W10820039. You can place that order through our website, or you can call us at 1-877-477-7278 to place the order over the phone.
exelente video amigo pero cual es el motivo por el cual usted cambia esa pieza espero tus comentarios gracias
Using a cordless
" Impact Drill " worked the best. In Removing the 7/16" Nut.
So glad you were able to get that removed!
How do you get hub flush all way down?
You will need to make sure the area around the shaft is cleaned up and no broken pieces are left from the old one, the hub should just slide over the drive block and shaft and then you would screw it down.
13:00 Calibration thanks!
Can this part be used to replace the plastic drive hub part # W10528947? I have a machine that continues to strip the plastic drive hubs.
I replaced which was an easy-ish fix last year in July. Now I have the same error code.
@@marcmespelli1106 just learned resetting the washer might help. Something about unplugging for a minute then plug back in and open and close lid while holding power button 6 times might help. I am about to try it here once I am home
Help!! The metal replacement drum kit is sold out everywhere! Is there any chance I can install a plastic one until/if the manufacturer puts out more? Mine is seriously corroded, so my impeller won’t spin.
Amazon has them.
What is the piece you used to loosen the top nut-type part? The piece that you hit the mallet with?
Are you referring to the chisel?
@@appliancepartspros it was the spanner wrench I believe. Thanks
Does this repair work for a Kenmore washer model number 110 2113 2013? Thank you.
I'm sorry, 110 2113 2013, is not pulling up as a valid model number. Can you double check that information on your appliance?
What are the signs that this needs replacing my whirlpool washer is just like this one and it is making a horrible grinding noise at the end of the spin cycle
Leaks, excessive vibration, and odd noises can point to a fault. Is the noise metal on metal or like a plastic-spline grind?
Sounds like metal on metal
Also when i spin the agitator manually Theres clicking noises
So you found NO need to remove the washer tub itself to replace any other piece press fit into the washer tub itself??
You are able to access this part without removing the tub.
After taking the screws off I cannot take the drive block off. I used penetration oil too. What oil is the best to try?. It looks like corrosion.
There is not one specific penetrating oil that we prefer. If after using the oil it still doesn't break loose, then you are going to take a chisel and a hammer and carefully try to crack in half to get it off the splines. You can see this process starting at 5:42 in the video.
I noticed the drive block has 1 of the 6 triangular shaped tabs that is recessed more. And I also noticed the bottom part of the hub that contacts the drive block has 1 straight tab. Do any of these need to align with anything in any way to work properly? I did not receive the instruction sheet with my kit, so I want to make sure.
How I change the dry chast
What is your model number and what part is it you need to replace?
Wash plate is not easy to pull out. Mines was fused to the tub. Had to break wash plate to remove it.
I had to do the same thing. When I got under it I find out you cant pull the drive hub off over the shaft to put on the new hub. Wish I can find out if I can repair this.
How do I get off a stuck hub flange.? I got the spanner nut off, but now the flange is stuck.
Why no lock tight on threads of part? I see put on bolt part but not the other threaded items.
@champs444 Which part are you referring to?
locking nut
i have never had one come off that easy
If there is anything we can help you with in the future please let us know.
how do i remove the wash plate medal insert i can not get them off
What is your model number?
will this work for a Maytag bravo washer?
How do you order it
How do you know if it’s not agitating
Take the lid locks latch off and put it in the lid lock so you can have the lid open while its running
My washing machine having problem with drainage motor which there's no power supply to it.
Can't get that bolt out under the cap. tried everything. Just sprayed with WD40 hoping it loosens up.
Those can be tricky to get out, you will need to keep working at it, that wd40 should help loosen it up. Good luck with the repair, let us know if you have any questions!
the wash plate wont budge
I Still cant remove the Agitator part after removing the Nut and using pry bars and penetrating Oil " and Not just a "Wiggle-wiggle" technique removal. 😢
Unfortunately, there is not a trick to removing that, you will need to keep working at it to get it out.
Why no threadlock on the spanner nut?
Big mistake.
how do you remove the tub?
Take the metal top of the washer off, then release the plastic cover that surrounds it by carefully prying the retainer tangs out. Pull the cover off and the tub will lift out.
My drive block on there!😤 I can’t get it
I have this same exact model except it is so built up with scale and debris that you cannot even see the screw heads. Very bad design for a repair.
thank you
Why not pull the basket and clean out the outer tub, after doing all this work?
That definitely wouldn't be a bad idea, though this video only covers the steps necessary in the repair.
My machine having problem, which there's no power supply to drain motor
What is your model number?
I ordered the drive hub for my washer, however it wont slide down on the shaft an set in place as you show it doing. I'm not sure if I can use something to tap it down? Any thoughts?
You could try making sure everything is really clean and there's no corrosion that's making it not want to slide into place, and tap it into to place. If that doesn't work, you can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/ and we'll help you figure out what's going on.
Funny.. watching these repair videos and seeing the built up crud makes me never want to use powdered detergent again. It makes a mess.
Cleaning the unit monthly should also help with that build up that happens over time.
@appliancepartspros well thanks to all these videos, I just repaired mine which has almost exclusively been used with liquid detergents for 17 years, and it was almost spotless inside. Looked nearly new. Think I'll stick with the liquid detergent!
Let us know if you have any other issues or questions!
My drive shaft and agitator were rusted. They were both stripped. I cleaned them off and placed a shim in between to take up the slack. Temp. fix. still working.
You do not need to undo the scanner wrench all you need to do is undo the screws around the scanner nut and lift the whole pices out in one just to save time there
Not if it's seized due to corrosion. Can't lift it up must be careful to break the corrosion in the spline and corresponding parts use a good Penetrating fluid and not WD-40,! LIQUID WRENCH OR EQUIVILENT. This is required if your removing the tub as well.
Mine is stuck. Any addvice?
Ok
Stop replacing stuff just to replace stuff
Whut
Use a puller
INSTALL ONE OF METAL AND IT LASTS FOR 45 DAYS THEY ATE THE STRETCH MARKS IT IS A FLAWY MATERIAL THAN BACK TO PLASTIC
There ain't no way I could ever fix anything wearing a pair of gloves
My kit is made of plastic
Seriously guys, nobody needs to watch how to screw screws or plug a machine into the outlet! You exclude valuable info such as why you replace these parts or what the machine was doing to require the repair and include nonsense. Use fewer words, less video and more important details. Be professional!
I dont know man some people dont know the obivious. Is bad its like that sometimes but it is. Especially for newcomers and those less than mechanically inclined. Pros know sure but the others......not so much.
Nothing wrong with being precise with instructions, I'd assume most people watching this are people at home trying to fix their machines themselves. There's literally no downside at explaining a little more. Just fast forward a bit if you don't want to see a certain part
@@DoctorEvil The down-side is showing yourself as unprofessional. So why would anyone waste their time with someone who doesn't understand the basics of editing. Nobody needs to see you run a screwdriver. Just a waste of time.
first your can't buy this part. second this wash machine isn't worth the parts or labor to fix them, THEY ARE JUNK
I just bought and installed it. So...
My washing machine having problem with drainage motor which there's no power supply to it.
My washing machine having problem with drainage motor which there's no power supply to it.
My washing machine having problem with drainage motor which there's no power supply to it.