I just finished watching all your videos about your carbon fiber journey. Great job! Your finished parts came out looking great and thank you for showing all your struggles and iterations. It’s nice seeing the real challenge of making something like this. You also present very well in general with the right amount of information to not get boring or want to skip parts but not omitting anything. Please continue to make videos like this!
Well done! Love the determination to get this done. I stumbled upon this while looking for videos on how to 3d print compression molds. Appreciate you sharing your knowledge.
It's really cool to see possible mistakes beforehand. Easy composites are doing their videos professional, but that means, that beginners like me are not aware of things, that might go wrong. Your video is much appreciated🙏💪
to let it cure, you don´t need to put it in a box with the heat gun. just set the heat gun at a distance aiming at the parts and forget the box. you need to let the chemicals in the clear coat gas out. too much heat will make the clear harden too fast making it hard for chemicals to gas out the outer layer. see where i´m going with this? let clear harden for 5 to 10 minutes before using the heat gun. aim it at the parts for about 20 minutes and then let the parts cure on its on for 24 hours. you should get a solid result then ;) keep up the good work !!!
Thanks for the vid series, I'm doing a similar part soon and it was great to watch you go through it. I think lots of draft angles where the moulds meet could help a lot getting them apart.. that's my plan anyway 😂 Cheers
Those turned out awesome! I'm about to try my first forged carbon piece but it will be hand laid up and not have an enclosed mold due to the geometry of the part. I designed and 3D printed the outer molds and the inner molds for the actual part will be a 60A hardness silicone so I can get the complex geometry to release from the mold when it's done but also have a relatively stiff mold. Maybe this is something you could try in the future for other complex parts. I don't know how well it would work for a compression mold but I'll see how it works for my application.
Meanwhile I am looking for an alternative to 3d printed molds. I'm finding it's a pain to model a compression mold that has close enough tolerances to work properly and be smooth enough with slightly complex shapes. Trying one last time with an ABS mold and acetone vapor smoothing. If it doesn't work I am biting the bullet and ordering the casting resin.
@@pb6839 if you're referring to tolerance issues with a 3D printed mold that shouldn't be an issue as you can adjust the design accordingly. I would try PLA and using XTC 3D smoothing kit or bondo, filler primer and clear copy with a release agent for the mold. From my research ABS is the hardest to get to release from the part.
that urethane is rather high tolerance eh.. im thinking of trying some waxy sort of cement for a bike seat mould sometime soon... good pressure too.. pretty sure you can sand.. or then try high viscosisty epoxy/heatgun for the final smudge.
Looks like you are breaking your mold when prying apart. I would consider jack screws to separate the mold evenly. More evenly than a screwdriver anyway.
Have you tried to make your mold out of silicone? I have made pistol magazine molds using silicone, you just have to support all 4 side’s during compression,but on releasing you mold will give in areas that are not quite straight
@@Teebar555 I've been thinking about moulding a suspension fork knob for my mtb. It's 38mm diameter, 11mm thick so it's basically a flat button. But it has an o-ring recess (makes it impossible to draw out of a mould and splitting the mold differently won't help) So i need a silicone mould.. and your comment helps me feel like this might work! Do fine details/texture transfer over to the end product with a silicone mould?
Bro them handles the best thing on the whole truck!!
It really os.
I just finished watching all your videos about your carbon fiber journey. Great job! Your finished parts came out looking great and thank you for showing all your struggles and iterations. It’s nice seeing the real challenge of making something like this. You also present very well in general with the right amount of information to not get boring or want to skip parts but not omitting anything. Please continue to make videos like this!
Thank you so much for the encouragement!! I’m glad you like it!
@@CleffersGarage Job well done. Been on my own home project journey. I appreciate your videos.
loving your content! no chitter-chatter straight to the point and simple. keep 'em coming.
Thank you so much!!
Totally trick!
It shocked me at the end what they were created for.
I definitely learned a thing or two.
Thanks heaps for great content 🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼🍀😎
haha probably not the most practical use for forged carbon but a fun project for sure.
Those handles look pretty damn good for a first attempt. They cleaned up super nice.
Thank you.
Well done! Love the determination to get this done. I stumbled upon this while looking for videos on how to 3d print compression molds. Appreciate you sharing your knowledge.
It's really cool to see possible mistakes beforehand. Easy composites are doing their videos professional, but that means, that beginners like me are not aware of things, that might go wrong.
Your video is much appreciated🙏💪
Thank you! I try to share the screw ups so people can see what worked and what didn’t.
Mate, getting it done! 11/10 for the first go I reckon. Ingenuity +++
Thanks 👍
Love your videos, can’t wait to start my own projects
to let it cure, you don´t need to put it in a box with the heat gun. just set the heat gun at a distance aiming at the parts and forget the box. you need to let the chemicals in the clear coat gas out. too much heat will make the clear harden too fast making it hard for chemicals to gas out the outer layer. see where i´m going with this? let clear harden for 5 to 10 minutes before using the heat gun. aim it at the parts for about 20 minutes and then let the parts cure on its on for 24 hours. you should get a solid result then ;) keep up the good work !!!
You can drill holes and bolt the pieces together.
I also thought about doing that. I might try it the next time.
Thanks for the vid series, I'm doing a similar part soon and it was great to watch you go through it.
I think lots of draft angles where the moulds meet could help a lot getting them apart.. that's my plan anyway 😂
Cheers
Those turned out awesome! I'm about to try my first forged carbon piece but it will be hand laid up and not have an enclosed mold due to the geometry of the part. I designed and 3D printed the outer molds and the inner molds for the actual part will be a 60A hardness silicone so I can get the complex geometry to release from the mold when it's done but also have a relatively stiff mold. Maybe this is something you could try in the future for other complex parts. I don't know how well it would work for a compression mold but I'll see how it works for my application.
Thank you! Yeah I think a 3d printer is the move. If I make another compression mold I will definitely be using a 3d scanner/printer. I wish you luck.
Meanwhile I am looking for an alternative to 3d printed molds. I'm finding it's a pain to model a compression mold that has close enough tolerances to work properly and be smooth enough with slightly complex shapes. Trying one last time with an ABS mold and acetone vapor smoothing. If it doesn't work I am biting the bullet and ordering the casting resin.
@@pb6839 if you're referring to tolerance issues with a 3D printed mold that shouldn't be an issue as you can adjust the design accordingly. I would try PLA and using XTC 3D smoothing kit or bondo, filler primer and clear copy with a release agent for the mold. From my research ABS is the hardest to get to release from the part.
that urethane is rather high tolerance eh.. im thinking of trying some waxy sort of cement for a bike seat mould sometime soon... good pressure too..
pretty sure you can sand.. or then try high viscosisty epoxy/heatgun for the final smudge.
Looks like you are breaking your mold when prying apart. I would consider jack screws to separate the mold evenly. More evenly than a screwdriver anyway.
Have you tried to make your mold out of silicone? I have made pistol magazine molds using silicone, you just have to support all 4 side’s during compression,but on releasing you mold will give in areas that are not quite straight
Interesting idea. Do you think it would deform under pressure from the vice?
@@CleffersGarage I use a whole bunch of rubber bands on mine then wrap it with some tape the work pretty good
@@Teebar555 I've been thinking about moulding a suspension fork knob for my mtb. It's 38mm diameter, 11mm thick so it's basically a flat button. But it has an o-ring recess (makes it impossible to draw out of a mould and splitting the mold differently won't help) So i need a silicone mould.. and your comment helps me feel like this might work!
Do fine details/texture transfer over to the end product with a silicone mould?
Just a thought... if you make the bottom mould in two pieces wouldn't it be easier (not as "breaky") to de-mould?
Awesome first try though. 😀👍
Yeah that is an option also I was going for a simple setup and easy clamping on this one. If I make it again I will be making some changes.
You need to make a carbon fiber thumb button for the outside door mechanism...
I might have to try that next.
You don't need giant vise. All it needs is constant pressure to squeeze out resin. Use a dumbbell.
That’s a good idea. I might try a cinder block next time.
Would the molds be stronger if you added carbon fiber to it?
That’s a good idea. I might have to try it.
@@CleffersGarage nice working with you
Great work.. My question would be. With that mold could you make a epoxy part with it and maybe just add color to the epoxy?
Please and thank you.
I think that you could but you might have some air bubbles and maybe leakage. I might have to try it.
Nice tutorials - thanks for sharing.
Thank you for the support
Which kind of scissors are you using to cut the carbon fibre? Could you please gimme that scissors' link?
These are the scissors that I use www.fibreglast.com/product/12-inch-resharpenable-bent-scissors
Nice!
Did you put inserts in the finished parts?
I did not use anything but carbon and epoxy in the finished parts. I do think a steel bushing in the hole for the bolt wouldn’t be a bad idea though.
Great video!
Thanks!
what PSI are you spraying at? also could you drop them into a degassing chamber and pull a vac on them to get out any micro bubbles?
I think I have it at 24PSI. I could try the degassing chamber but I’ll have to get a bigger one.
Sweet!!
Thank you!
Sweet man i applaud you. I'm still debating whether to just pay for the damn part or make it myself. Lmao
Where did you buy the spray release? I buy it in pints, but the aerosol spray would be SO much better.
I ordered it here pilotshq.com/search?q=770-nc although it looks like it’s out of stock at the moment.
@@CleffersGarage thanks!!! I’ll keep my eye open for it to be back in stock. I’m guessing the aerosol doesn’t have a shelf life like the jug does?
My can does not appear to have a date stamped on it.
So from start to finish including the molds how long did this project take?
I took my time for sure. But from the first failed mold to makeing 2 molds (one for each side) and having a usable product it was about 5 months.
Are there any alternatives for the resin? I am planning something similar with my paddle shifter but the product is unavailable in my country
There is a resin that is the same sold by easy compositesin the UK. You could also 3d print the molds.
Does it feel sturdier than the OEM door handle? Weight difference?
It’s a bit heavier and much sturdier
gonna save so much fuel in the truck with the weight savings
🤣 probably pick up .000001 MPG
What paint is the finish? Please
I used acme finish 1 I got from Napa. That is the only place in town that has automotive paint.
@@CleffersGarage fp301?
@@smmm8164 fc720
From where did you buy that carbon fiber material ?
composite envisions. compositeenvisions.com/
Hate from Milton Florida