Appreciate your insight about this belt slippage problem with this bandsaw. You once again helped a beginning user to solve power trouble when cutting wood log pieces. Your patient approach will endure for generations. Many Thanks…Jim
I've been using my Central Machinery/Harbor Freight bandsaw for over 30 years and love it! It looks like they've made a few improvements, the tension guide (mine doesn't have one other than the scratch marks I've made), the dust collector etc... what it lacks is a way to attach a light to the frame or somewher for good illumination! I usually have to hold a flashlight in my mouth for that! I see what you've done, the light bulb in a can screwed to the upper wheel cover... that's what I'm going to do today!! 👍
...there is something magical about older gents making these videos that captures me. My father was a wood worker (pattern maker before they started farming it out to other continents) as his father before him. I'm a hobby wood worker - just doing it in my spare time as a love of the art. Keep up the good work and inspiring people!
Great information! Nice work on that pulley, too. I just picked up one of these, manufactured in '97, in fairly good shape. Needs some TLC but its getting there.
Nice video Carl. I bought this same saw about 4 years ago and have loved it ever since. I have resawed so many varieties of wood that I checked with Harbor Freight and purchased the 6" riser block kit for this saw. I installed it, bought a 105" skip tooth 2 - 3 tpi blade and have been resawing hardwood up to 10" - 12" thick! I can now have 1/2" panels of wood that I couldn't buy in the box stores of lumber yards! Great value for the money. I do with it would have came with a work light (I've added my own) and a fence. Otherwise, great fit and finish and a great addition to my woodshop!
Awesome mods Carl! I like the straight shooting in your vids, no fluff, just the facts and I know you have done your homework before you put it in a video! Thanks for sharing your well thought out insights.
Thanks for sharing sir because I'm in the process of assembling one of those for the landlord to use for the same things with the logs and lathe , very interesting about the belt and pullies , I will watch what happens there closer now , sounds like the critics assumed .
Nice Carl. You know your way around the HF bandsaw! I have two of them. A 2003 model and I recently bought a 2007 model that was used once and sat for 10 years in a garage. I made the usual mods to it. Both still run just fine and the older one has resawn many hundreds of feet of lumber.
When I see you working and explaining each project I can imagine what matthias wandel would be as he gets to your age, a compliment I can assure you sir
Another good video Carl! Great tips on upgraded the deficiencies. I would like to learn more about pulley sizes to attain specific speed for a known rpm motor.
Just came across this site...practical with elegant functionality. Would love to see drawings of 3 to 4 retractable caster set ups. Thanks for sharing your wealth of experience...much appreciated. Dennis in Temecula
Thanks for your great video. I have watched it several times and today added a link belt and removed the pulley system from my saw. I opted to keep the original pulley up top and put the 2.5 on the bottom. All the vibration is gone and its much more powerful. I was planning on also adding better dust collection and wondered if one would be just as well off adding 4 inch vent in place where newer model has it, opposed to doing it underneath and having to build inserts, etc? Also how did you build the metal piece to divert to the front dust collector? Thanks in advance!
duckyp: Thx for kudos. I think adding a dust collector outlet to the lower wheel shield (like the newer model) would be just as effective as my modification: the hole and elbow on the bottom. The metal "funnel" around the lower blade guide is an aluminum, 3-side box, 2" X 2" X 2.5" high with a leg extending downward to the front shield attach stud and knob. The top of the box is trimmed so it doesn't interfere with the table when it's tilted to 45 degrees.
I just bought a hardly used one in new condition for $175 but it wobbles pretty bad. Looks like the shaft on the motor is a little bent so there is no fixing it unless I buy a new motor. I can still use it pretty well but the wobble is kind of annoying. Other than that it seems like a very well build saw for the money
Didn't know that anyone was still making and selling this model of band saw. Mine, which I bought used, was made in 1991. When properly tuned, drift is not a problem. I will keep an eye out for the potential belt slippage issue. For dust collection, I installed a 4 inch port in the cover/door for the bottom wheel, which works well. Did you consider moving the power switch? I haven't yet, but having it located on the base is awkward and a potential hazard. Thanks.
Nearly identical saw is currently available from Harbor Freight. It has nice two tone grey paint; also. it has a larger dust collector port on the lower wheel cover. I would like to change the switch and incorporate a knee-operatedstop bar like I have on my table saw.
Thank-you for sharing. I would like to know more about the bandsaw fence - construction, how it works, how it is used, lessons learned. Also, was that dust port on right side stock, or added? Other than the small diverter
Carl, if you don't mind, I understand the belt slippage however, I don't understand why you added the "maple pulley" and increased it's diameter by 2" (I assume, the way it looks) and put the new links belt. Why didn't you just "eliminated" the center pulley system and connected the links belt to the original drive pulley, isn't the 6" of it enough? I have a similar bandsaw (Reliant) and I try to understand the concept. Thanks for your videos, they're educational.
Good information. I have been considering the same Harbor Freight band saw that you reviewed on this video. I bought one of their wood lathes 34706, and it is a true work horse if you take care of it. Now, I find that I need a 14" band saw for sawing out blanks to turn on my lathe, hopefully with the mods that I have learned from you, I can make the saw a nice addition in my shop. Do you have anymore measurements that you would share on the pulley, and the tensioner that you turned for it? Thanks
Hi Carl.Thinking in buy one saw like yours. With the stock blade, what is the fatest, thick piece of wood i can cut?. Can you please advise me about what type of blade is needed for thick cutting?.
Carl, I've watched the videos on the bandsaw several times and I commend you. I have a question with which I hope you can help me. I have the new version of the Central Machinery bandsaw with the problem of belt slippage. My question is can I remove the middle step pulley and go directly from the motor to the bandsaw drive pulley using the existing the pulleys rather than turning another pulley on the bandsaw drive pulley?
Jess, Thanks for looking at my vid and thanks for the kudos. In hindsight, I could probably have done as you suggest, use the 6" pulley on the bandsaw instead of turning an 8" pulley. I was simply trying o use the largest diameter pulleys possible for maximum length of belt wrap and maximum traction. For ideal blade speed, the motor pulley should be 2 1/4" when paired with a 6" pulley. The second smallest pulley on the motor 4-step pulley is 2 1/2". If you use ths pulley the blade speed may a little faster then ideal but i don't think it would matter. This is what dpaddler (below) did. ///Carl
This model is no longer sold, they replaced it with a cheaper model that has only a 3/4 HP motor. I don't think the value is there anymore, id rather pay $100 extra and get the craftsman which has a larger table.
Carl, Thanks for the wonderful video. I just purchased Harbor Freight 14 bandsaw and spent three hours putting it together. Actually it was two hours following their directions and an hour taking in apart and putting it together the way it was supposed to be. The only problem I couldn't fix was the unit wobbles like crazy under power. I think I isolated the problem to the top pulley or connecting wheel. I pulled off the top pulley and put it back on carefully but that didn't work. Have you come across this problem before? Do you have any suggestions? Grateful for any help Mel Friedman
Mel F No, my saw runs smoothly. It appears that something on your saw is badly out-of-balance or out-of-round. Run it with the blade removed - does the motor and lower wheel run smoothly? Is the lower wheel round? Hold a block near the tire and turn the wheel by hand. Does the upper wheel have a heavy side? Spin it with the blade off; does it always come to rest at the same spot? Is it round? /////Carl
Carl Holmgren Carl, thanks for the quick response. It appears the Lower Wheel ( which is cast ) is not in balance. I took the rubber pads off the bottom of the legs and shimmed up the base and now it seems to be o'k. Thanks for your advice Mel
Carl, I just bought a Reliant DD90 in almost mint condition, I belive due to the fact that the previous owner could not get it to fuction well at all. I was wondering what are the sizes of your upper and lower pullys and do you have any idea what speed your blade is running at. Also did you try putting the link belt on the original pully set up before you changed it? Do you happend to have any pictures of the motor mount modifications you made? Thanks for any info it'll help!
+mntbiker ohthreesix Upper pulley is 8" runs at 700 rpm; blade speed is about 2550 fpm, motor pulley is 3:". No I din't try linked belt on the original set up. I don't think linked belts have any better traction than a conventional or cogged vee belt when wrapped around a small diameter pulley. Have no pics of the motor mount - I'll take some a post on my web site: carlholmgrenwoodworking.coml
Carl Removed center set of Pulleys, and ran a Power Twist V-Belt from the top 5 inch to the drive 3 inch Pulley. Put a new timberwolf 1/2 inch 3TPI blade on and I have a very nice running machine that I can do resawing on. I just ordered a Riser Block Kit from Grizzly. Next I need to work on a dust collection system. Thanks again for the video and advise.
Carl Did you flip the motor to the top side of the motor mount on the bottom? I'am doing the mods that you did, and would like to put a drawer on the bottom also.
Rudy Lazard The motor is still on top of the motor mount. I installed new hardwood crossmembers front and rear to carry the motor mount. Hope it works well for you. //Carl
Appreciate your insight about this belt slippage problem with this bandsaw.
You once again helped a beginning user to solve power trouble when cutting wood log pieces.
Your patient approach will endure for generations.
Many Thanks…Jim
I've been using my Central Machinery/Harbor Freight bandsaw for over 30 years and love it! It looks like they've made a few improvements, the tension guide (mine doesn't have one other than the scratch marks I've made), the dust collector etc... what it lacks is a way to attach a light to the frame or somewher for good illumination! I usually have to hold a flashlight in my mouth for that! I see what you've done, the light bulb in a can screwed to the upper wheel cover... that's what I'm going to do today!! 👍
...there is something magical about older gents making these videos that captures me. My father was a wood worker (pattern maker before they started farming it out to other continents) as his father before him. I'm a hobby wood worker - just doing it in my spare time as a love of the art.
Keep up the good work and inspiring people!
Thank you for additional knowledge owning one of these machines!
Nice video.
This video helps you understand that you don't need the fancier bandsaw, just need to spend some time and set it up for your purposes.
Great information! Nice work on that pulley, too. I just picked up one of these, manufactured in '97, in fairly good shape. Needs some TLC but its getting there.
Nice video Carl. I bought this same saw about 4 years ago and have loved it ever since. I have resawed so many varieties of wood that I checked with Harbor Freight and purchased the 6" riser block kit for this saw. I installed it, bought a 105" skip tooth 2 - 3 tpi blade and have been resawing hardwood up to 10" - 12" thick! I can now have 1/2" panels of wood that I couldn't buy in the box stores of lumber yards! Great value for the money. I do with it would have came with a work light (I've added my own) and a fence. Otherwise, great fit and finish and a great addition to my woodshop!
did u have to modify anything on yur saw like he is recommending here?
Best video on this saw on this site. You are a genius! Thank you for taking the time to put this up.
Awesome mods Carl! I like the straight shooting in your vids, no fluff, just the facts and I know you have done your homework before you put it in a video! Thanks for sharing your well thought out insights.
Thanks for sharing sir because I'm in the process of assembling one of those for the landlord to use for the same things with the logs and lathe , very interesting about the belt and pullies , I will watch what happens there closer now , sounds like the critics assumed .
Nice Carl. You know your way around the HF bandsaw! I have two of them. A 2003 model and I recently bought a 2007 model that was used once and sat for 10 years in a garage. I made the usual mods to it. Both still run just fine and the older one has resawn many hundreds of feet of lumber.
Thank you so much for sharing your experience and knowledge. I will be trying most of these on my harbor freight unit.
When I see you working and explaining each project I can imagine what matthias wandel would be as he gets to your age, a compliment I can assure you sir
Nice video, Carl. Thanks for the tip on blade drift. I like how you have your Shop Smith turned on its end and using it as a drill press.
Another good video Carl! Great tips on upgraded the deficiencies. I would like to learn more about pulley sizes to attain specific speed for a known rpm motor.
Excellent content. I have been thinking about buying this saw and improving it rather than spend lots of money on something only marginally better.
Just came across this site...practical with elegant functionality. Would love to see drawings of 3 to 4 retractable caster set ups.
Thanks for sharing your wealth of experience...much appreciated.
Dennis in Temecula
Thanks for kudos; Hopefully as my site develops I'll be able to post some drawings and measurements of the retracting casters...........
Excellent video
Thanks for the tips Carl.just got my new 14'' saber bandsaw last week hopefully i can do some miner adjustment to it.
Enjoyed this! Thanks for posting.
Thanks for the video some good info here. My harbor freight bandsaw barely runs and I've tried everything! I'd be lucky to resaw two inches haha
great video Carl, very informative. Thank you!
Thanks for your great video. I have watched it several times and today added a link belt and removed the pulley system from my saw. I opted to keep the original pulley up top and put the 2.5 on the bottom. All the vibration is gone and its much more powerful. I was planning on also adding better dust collection and wondered if one would be just as well off adding 4 inch vent in place where newer model has it, opposed to doing it underneath and having to build inserts, etc? Also how did you build the metal piece to divert to the front dust collector? Thanks in advance!
duckyp: Thx for kudos. I think adding a dust collector outlet to the lower wheel shield (like the newer model) would be just as effective as my modification: the hole and elbow on the bottom.
The metal "funnel" around the lower blade guide is an aluminum, 3-side box, 2" X 2" X 2.5" high with a leg extending downward to the front shield attach stud and knob. The top of the box is trimmed so it doesn't interfere with the table when it's tilted to 45 degrees.
I just bought a hardly used one in new condition for $175 but it wobbles pretty bad. Looks like the shaft on the motor is a little bent so there is no fixing it unless I buy a new motor. I can still use it pretty well but the wobble is kind of annoying. Other than that it seems like a very well build saw for the money
Didn't know that anyone was still making and selling this model of band saw. Mine, which I bought used, was made in 1991. When properly tuned, drift is not a problem. I will keep an eye out for the potential belt slippage issue. For dust collection, I installed a 4 inch port in the cover/door for the bottom wheel, which works well. Did you consider moving the power switch? I haven't yet, but having it located on the base is awkward and a potential hazard. Thanks.
Nearly identical saw is currently available from Harbor Freight. It has nice two tone grey paint; also. it has a larger dust collector port on the lower wheel cover. I would like to change the switch and incorporate a knee-operatedstop bar like I have on my table saw.
Thank-you for sharing. I would like to know more about the bandsaw fence - construction, how it works, how it is used, lessons learned.
Also, was that dust port on right side stock, or added? Other than the small diverter
Great job Carl !!!!
thanks for sharing the video, nicely done!
Carl, if you don't mind, I understand the belt slippage however, I don't understand why you added the "maple pulley" and increased it's diameter by 2" (I assume, the way it looks) and put the new links belt.
Why didn't you just "eliminated" the center pulley system and connected the links belt to the original drive pulley, isn't the 6" of it enough?
I have a similar bandsaw (Reliant) and I try to understand the concept.
Thanks for your videos, they're educational.
Really great video! Super helpful!
Good information. I have been considering the same Harbor Freight band saw that you reviewed on this video. I bought one of their wood lathes 34706, and it is a true work horse if you take care of it. Now, I find that I need a 14" band saw for sawing out blanks to turn on my lathe, hopefully with the mods that I have learned from you, I can make the saw a nice addition in my shop. Do you have anymore measurements that you would share on the pulley, and the tensioner that you turned for it? Thanks
Good info. Thanks for sharing !
great video
Hi Carl.Thinking in buy one saw like yours. With the stock blade, what is the fatest, thick piece of wood i can cut?. Can you please advise me about what type of blade is needed for thick cutting?.
Great video.
Great Job!
Carl, I've watched the videos on the bandsaw several times and I commend you. I have a question with which I hope you can help me. I have the new version of the Central Machinery bandsaw with the problem of belt slippage. My question is can I remove the middle step pulley and go directly from the motor to the bandsaw drive pulley using the existing the pulleys rather than turning another pulley on the bandsaw drive pulley?
Jess, Thanks for looking at my vid and thanks for the kudos. In hindsight, I could probably have done as you suggest, use the 6" pulley on the bandsaw instead of turning an 8" pulley. I was simply trying o use the largest diameter pulleys possible for maximum length of belt wrap and maximum traction. For ideal blade speed, the motor pulley should be 2 1/4" when paired with a 6" pulley. The second smallest pulley on the motor 4-step pulley is 2 1/2". If you use ths pulley the blade speed may a little faster then ideal but i don't think it would matter. This is what dpaddler (below) did. ///Carl
Thank you for the video..
This model is no longer sold, they replaced it with a cheaper model that has only a 3/4 HP motor. I don't think the value is there anymore, id rather pay $100 extra and get the craftsman which has a larger table.
Carl, Thanks for the wonderful video. I just purchased Harbor Freight 14 bandsaw and spent three hours putting it together. Actually it was two hours following their directions and an hour taking in apart and putting it together the way it was supposed to be.
The only problem I couldn't fix was the unit wobbles like crazy under power. I think I isolated the problem to the top pulley or connecting wheel. I pulled off the top pulley and put it back on carefully but that didn't work.
Have you come across this problem before?
Do you have any suggestions?
Grateful for any help
Mel Friedman
Mel F No, my saw runs smoothly. It appears that something on your saw is badly out-of-balance or out-of-round. Run it with the blade removed - does the motor and lower wheel run smoothly? Is the lower wheel round? Hold a block near the tire and turn the wheel by hand. Does the upper wheel have a heavy side? Spin it with the blade off; does it always come to rest at the same spot? Is it round? /////Carl
Carl Holmgren Carl, thanks for the quick response. It appears the Lower Wheel ( which is cast ) is not in balance. I took the rubber pads off the bottom of the legs and shimmed up the base and now it seems to be o'k.
Thanks for your advice
Mel
Carl, I just bought a Reliant DD90 in almost mint condition, I belive due to the fact that the previous owner could not get it to fuction well at all. I was wondering what are the sizes of your upper and lower pullys and do you have any idea what speed your blade is running at. Also did you try putting the link belt on the original pully set up before you changed it? Do you happend to have any pictures of the motor mount modifications you made? Thanks for any info it'll help!
+mntbiker ohthreesix Upper pulley is 8" runs at 700 rpm; blade speed is about 2550 fpm, motor pulley is 3:".
No I din't try linked belt on the original set up. I don't think linked belts have any better traction than a conventional or cogged vee belt when wrapped around a small diameter pulley.
Have no pics of the motor mount - I'll take some a post on my web site: carlholmgrenwoodworking.coml
Thank you.
Carl
Removed center set of Pulleys, and ran a Power Twist V-Belt from the top 5 inch to the drive 3 inch Pulley. Put a new timberwolf 1/2 inch 3TPI blade on and I have a very nice running machine that I can do resawing on. I just ordered a Riser Block Kit from Grizzly. Next I need to work on a dust collection system. Thanks again for the video and advise.
this guy is cool
Carl Did you flip the motor to the top side of the motor mount on the bottom? I'am doing the mods that you did, and would like to put a drawer on the bottom also.
Rudy Lazard The motor is still on top of the motor mount. I installed new hardwood crossmembers front and rear to carry the motor mount. Hope it works well for you. //Carl
Carl Holmgren Thanks Carl is there any way you could send me a picture of the bottom area mounts and motor? It would help a lot...lazard99@msn.com
Oh for Christ's sake, just buy a better bandsaw.