Yes, it will be getting mounted on the inner wall where I took the old one off. The manual states for marine installations it has to be mounted horizontally on a vertical surface. Cheers, Ray
You do not have a galvanic isolator installed. Should be the first thing the ground wire meets after coming in from your Smart Plug. I recommend you spend some time watching videos from Jeff Cote of Pacific Yacht Systems, a fellow British Colombian, with tons of helpful information and insights into boat electrical systems.
I actually do have a galvanic isolator installed GI-30 NewMar ,was hidden from view. See here th-cam.com/video/9WUvjJrvg0M/w-d-xo.html I tested it with my multimeter and its functional. I'll likely replace it with a more modern version that has LED indicators for next years boating season. This one was recommended to me by a marine electronics tech that follows the channel amzn.to/3FfIkux Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV Yeah, I saw that in one of your videos I watched after that! Hopefully that's the first thing the green shore power wire connects to after the Smart Plug. On our boat (ironically a CHB 34, though it's the Europa model) I upgraded the one that came with our boat to a ProMariner 22034 ProSafe 30 Amp Galvanic Isolator, which is a fail-safe design. If a non fail-safe isolator were to burn out (and unless you tested it daily you'd have no way to know), you would essentially lose all ground fault protection on the boat. With the fail-safe design, even if something goes wrong with the isolator, you will still maintain the ground connection. I've been enjoying your videos! Thanks! Maybe we'll run into you guys out on the water some summer! --Tim
Thanks. :) it would be good to have one that has an indictor to know if that it is working or if there is a fault present. I don't think they burn out that often useless some big issue with shore power connection happens, its been in there since the mid 2000s judging by the model. One way I'd think to easily know if the ground has opened is to plug in a 3 LED plug tester to one of the outlets. Could leave one plugged in somewhere. I also wonder if the ground was open whether the reverse polarity light on the AC main breaker may come on. I notice it will come on if I plug the shore cord into my generator that doesn't have a bonded neutral to ground output. Our plans are not to be on marina dock power much at all though, so may not be worth the cost to upgrade if I can just monitor it when we do occasionally plug in for a night or two.
@@LoveYourRV Yes, the reverse polarity light comes on if you’re plugged in to an AC power source with a floating ground. AC panel on boats should not have the neutral bonded to the ground, only at the power source, such as shore power. However, if the AC source is on board the boat, it is supposed to be bonded, as I understand. Again, tons of fantastic information on boat electrical is available on Pacific Yacht Systems’ TH-cam channel and website. No affiliation. Just a big fan of theirs. Happy boating/RVing! - Tim
Thanks, yeah, I've seen some of their videos, also have Nigel Calder's book "Boatowners Mechanical and Electrical Manual" for reference amzn.to/3PXMhdq Its the same with RVs, they are set up to only see the campground main electrical cabinet bonded ground so I carry what's called an Edison Plug to plug into the portable generator or a portable power station. It is basically a plug with the neutral and ground bonded. Its handy in case some things need to see a bonded ground amzn.to/3ETrVM5
I would rather have it on between the inverter and the sub panel so it would be active when running off of the inverter, but then it wouldn't be in the right place for surge protection, I guess you almost still need 2 devices... an EMS and the softstart. Unless I'm missing something.
😂 wire closet, that was funny, looks just like an RV on land. Active start needs to get their act together for cross border shipping n make it easy for us, until then, no sale. 🍻
You say to take your opinions with a "grain of salt". I'm going to add a lime & a shot of Tequila as well (j k). I've been watching the past few video's intently as I am now ready to add a "start" to my RV A/C.Not sure if old age or "Climate Change" pushed me over, but this Summer I've actually wanted to run my A/C while boondocking... must be old age 😊 (my bet is you'll have the wiring all cleaned up looking purity within the next few weeks)
How’s the 30 amp ActiveStart working out after 7 months time? I’m thinking about getting one for our Class B. The little Onan 2800 generator stumbles a bit when the CoolCat roof air conditioner starts.
Good, I have one wired into my 14.5K BTU Furrion RV air conditioner, and it can start it with as low as a 2000W inverter th-cam.com/video/pzPxMm2N5U8/w-d-xo.html
Nice install (that ActiveStart looks to be well put together).
I'm no electrician, but I would mount that inverter off the "ground" of that cabinet. Just an armchair warrior's opinion. Great video!
Yes, it will be getting mounted on the inner wall where I took the old one off. The manual states for marine installations it has to be mounted horizontally on a vertical surface. Cheers, Ray
You do not have a galvanic isolator installed. Should be the first thing the ground wire meets after coming in from your Smart Plug.
I recommend you spend some time watching videos from Jeff Cote of Pacific Yacht Systems, a fellow British Colombian, with tons of helpful information and insights into boat electrical systems.
I actually do have a galvanic isolator installed GI-30 NewMar ,was hidden from view. See here th-cam.com/video/9WUvjJrvg0M/w-d-xo.html I tested it with my multimeter and its functional. I'll likely replace it with a more modern version that has LED indicators for next years boating season. This one was recommended to me by a marine electronics tech that follows the channel amzn.to/3FfIkux Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV Yeah, I saw that in one of your videos I watched after that! Hopefully that's the first thing the green shore power wire connects to after the Smart Plug.
On our boat (ironically a CHB 34, though it's the Europa model) I upgraded the one that came with our boat to a ProMariner 22034 ProSafe 30 Amp Galvanic Isolator, which is a fail-safe design. If a non fail-safe isolator were to burn out (and unless you tested it daily you'd have no way to know), you would essentially lose all ground fault protection on the boat. With the fail-safe design, even if something goes wrong with the isolator, you will still maintain the ground connection.
I've been enjoying your videos! Thanks! Maybe we'll run into you guys out on the water some summer! --Tim
Thanks. :) it would be good to have one that has an indictor to know if that it is working or if there is a fault present. I don't think they burn out that often useless some big issue with shore power connection happens, its been in there since the mid 2000s judging by the model. One way I'd think to easily know if the ground has opened is to plug in a 3 LED plug tester to one of the outlets. Could leave one plugged in somewhere. I also wonder if the ground was open whether the reverse polarity light on the AC main breaker may come on. I notice it will come on if I plug the shore cord into my generator that doesn't have a bonded neutral to ground output. Our plans are not to be on marina dock power much at all though, so may not be worth the cost to upgrade if I can just monitor it when we do occasionally plug in for a night or two.
@@LoveYourRV Yes, the reverse polarity light comes on if you’re plugged in to an AC power source with a floating ground. AC panel on boats should not have the neutral bonded to the ground, only at the power source, such as shore power. However, if the AC source is on board the boat, it is supposed to be bonded, as I understand. Again, tons of fantastic information on boat electrical is available on Pacific Yacht Systems’ TH-cam channel and website. No affiliation. Just a big fan of theirs. Happy boating/RVing! - Tim
Thanks, yeah, I've seen some of their videos, also have Nigel Calder's book "Boatowners Mechanical and Electrical Manual" for reference amzn.to/3PXMhdq
Its the same with RVs, they are set up to only see the campground main electrical cabinet bonded ground so I carry what's called an Edison Plug to plug into the portable generator or a portable power station. It is basically a plug with the neutral and ground bonded. Its handy in case some things need to see a bonded ground amzn.to/3ETrVM5
I would rather have it on between the inverter and the sub panel so it would be active when running off of the inverter, but then it wouldn't be in the right place for surge protection, I guess you almost still need 2 devices... an EMS and the softstart. Unless I'm missing something.
😂 wire closet, that was funny, looks just like an RV on land. Active start needs to get their act together for cross border shipping n make it easy for us, until then, no sale. 🍻
You say to take your opinions with a "grain of salt". I'm going to add a lime & a shot of Tequila as well (j k). I've been watching the past few video's intently as I am now ready to add a "start" to my RV A/C.Not sure if old age or "Climate Change" pushed me over, but this Summer I've actually wanted to run my A/C while boondocking... must be old age 😊 (my bet is you'll have the wiring all cleaned up looking purity within the next few weeks)
Nice
How’s the 30 amp ActiveStart working out after 7 months time? I’m thinking about getting one for our Class B. The little Onan 2800 generator stumbles a bit when the CoolCat roof air conditioner starts.
Good, I have one wired into my 14.5K BTU Furrion RV air conditioner, and it can start it with as low as a 2000W inverter th-cam.com/video/pzPxMm2N5U8/w-d-xo.html