Way better explanation then on Sako's site, I just purchased yesterday a Sako 85 Hunter Stainless and will be mounting my Swarovski optik with Sako's Optilock myself thanks for the great video 👍
Very clear and logical guide; well done. I particularly like the tip to use two spirit levels (on the rifle and the scope) to get the cross hairs perfect.
Excellent video! I just ordered a set of Sako rings and mounts for my Sako 85 Bavarian Carbine .308 Win and this video will be a great help. Thank you!
Nice video. But the thing I don’t like about this levelling technique is that you’re assuming the reticle inside the scope is level to the turret cap. Better to level the reticle itself to a vertical line by looking through it.
Why is it important to have the front base far back like you did? I just mounted a Swarovski with these on a Sako 85. I ran out of elevation clicks. Any idea why that would be? I used the correct rings per Sako
I installed Warne Maxima rings directly on the receiver dovetail in a Tikka T3x...no bases needed since the ring has the recoil pin that fits in the Optiloc hole in the receiver.
TBH I ended up torque with base to rail (weaver base) with 63 in/lb. At first i did same as base to rings which is 45 in/lb but later found out specs of that it should be 80 in/lb. I have a tourque wrench with scale up to 50 in/lb which i turned over the scale 1 more rev of micro adjustment and stoped around 63 in/lb progressively tightened base screw up to that value. 63 in/lb felt so tight i wasnt sure i should go any further with torque.
Hi, nice video. I find it very helpful. I just bought a set of rings and bases for a T3X. They aren’t cheap. My question is: does it matter which way the base/rings face? I ask this because I usually point my rings backwards to have my scope as far back as possible. Thanks
What is the part number on those bases. Looks like they make a few different ones. Theres a short action, A long action and an extended action. I have the same rifle. Great video. Thank You
You dont seem to mention that the top-caps require 'equal' gaps, either-side, between the top-cap, and the bottom base. This ensures equal torque and holding-pressure on the plastic-inner-spacer-ring and ultimately, the scope-tube. Cheers, Dave , NZ
The Optilock two piece mounts that I just bought say to drive the front mount all the way forward with a plastic hammer, until they won't slide any farther. I wonder is this something that has changed since this video was made?
@@TheFlyingPlectrum This is correct. The front mount must be slid forward until it is tight. Otherwise there is too much side to side movement. If you don't believe me just try it ... set the mount flush to the rear as shown and wiggle it back and forth. Loose right? Moving it forward eliminates that play. If you keep it there the base screw will tighten against the right side of the dovetail, pulling the mount against it (to the right). Meaning that is where the scope will ultimately point. I tried and tried to follow this and others that say the same and my shooting so far left I didn't have windage enough to zero it. (Zeiss 1" HD-5) Shove it forward ... you'll thank me.
@@outdoorquesttv9946 well of course it makes it tighter … that’s the definition of a “dovetail “. But you’re right, it does move it to one side because the tension screw is on the right. Therefore, logically, when you tighten the screw to take up the slack the center of the mount moves to the right, moving the scope to the right. If you have the windage to compensate it doesn’t really matter. But my 1” Zeiss HD5 did not so I have to make sure I’m all the way forward. BTW, you can see this easily if you note that the dovetail is even … it does not cant either way. Then look at the bottom of the base … no cant anywhere. Only variable is the screw.
Just to get a bit of perspective as to what I need, I was wondering what size your scope is. You said you were using the "Low" rings, but you didn't mention what the bell diameter of the scope is. I like to keep my scopes close to the barrel. I will be using a 3-9x40 scope, but I don't know what rings will give me the approximate height you have there. Thanks.
I have the Sako 85 Finnlight. Just bought it. But I'm a rookie so a question...the Optilock rings & bases are for the Zeiss scope only or a scope of its dimensions or ?
I had these rings and bases mounted on my sako 85 black bear with a vortex viper pst. I was never able to get a consistent grouping and eventually the magnification on the scope stopped working. I disassembled the scope from the rings and found two dents on the bottom of the scope where it was in contact with the lower rings. How was this possible if everything was torqued to spec?
Hi, would you suggest what exactly optilock bas and rings i need for Sako 85M Bavarian with Vortex scope diamondback 3.5x10x50 1'' tube, id appreciate your help since I couldn't figure out Sako optilock chart.
I actually translated the manual to english the small screws for tightening the rings around scope tubes is 15 in lbs, the lower ring to base of optilock is actually 44 inch lbs and the base to the rifle is actually 80 inch lbs (how you get that much torque from a hand turn wrench is another question) I think there is some minor confusion between hd and standard model rings and bases and the finnish only manual. These are also max torque values, i can't see how 65 inch lbs of torque would not be enough to hold the bases on the rifle.
Way better explanation then on Sako's site, I just purchased yesterday a Sako 85 Hunter Stainless and will be mounting my Swarovski optik with Sako's Optilock myself thanks for the great video 👍
Very clear and logical guide; well done. I particularly like the tip to use two spirit levels (on the rifle and the scope) to get the cross hairs perfect.
Excellent video! I just ordered a set of Sako rings and mounts for my Sako 85 Bavarian Carbine .308 Win and this video will be a great help. Thank you!
Nicely done. I just ordered some 30mm low optilocks for my Tikka M695. Really looking forward to putting them on. Thanks for the video!
I like the way you did your scope mounting video.
Well done thanks for your time and expertise
Great video. Thanks.
Nice video. But the thing I don’t like about this levelling technique is that you’re assuming the reticle inside the scope is level to the turret cap. Better to level the reticle itself to a vertical line by looking through it.
They should be or I'd question the quality of the scope. But yes a visual check is done too.
Cheers thanks for sharing
Why is it important to have the front base far back like you did? I just mounted a Swarovski with these on a Sako 85. I ran out of elevation clicks. Any idea why that would be? I used the correct rings per Sako
I installed Warne Maxima rings directly on the receiver dovetail in a Tikka T3x...no bases needed since the ring has the recoil pin that fits in the Optiloc hole in the receiver.
TBH I ended up torque with base to rail (weaver base) with 63 in/lb. At first i did same as base to rings which is 45 in/lb but later found out specs of that it should be 80 in/lb. I have a tourque wrench with scale up to 50 in/lb which i turned over the scale 1 more rev of micro adjustment and stoped around 63 in/lb progressively tightened base screw up to that value. 63 in/lb felt so tight i wasnt sure i should go any further with torque.
Is there any reason you don’t use Zeiss scopes with ZM/VM internal rails? You seem to use all your Zeiss scopes with rings. Nice videos bye the way
Looking at the factory instructions, it says to install the front base as far forward as possible, then using a plastic hammer to tap it forward??
Hi, nice video. I find it very helpful. I just bought a set of rings and bases for a T3X. They aren’t cheap. My question is: does it matter which way the base/rings face? I ask this because I usually point my rings backwards to have my scope as far back as possible. Thanks
You should have you scope position for the proper eye relief.
What is the part number on those bases. Looks like they make a few different ones. Theres a short action, A long action and an extended action. I have the same rifle. Great video. Thank You
This is a long action.
You dont seem to mention that the top-caps require 'equal' gaps, either-side, between the top-cap, and the bottom base. This ensures equal torque and holding-pressure on the plastic-inner-spacer-ring and ultimately, the scope-tube. Cheers, Dave , NZ
You bet
The Optilock two piece mounts that I just bought say to drive the front mount all the way forward with a plastic hammer, until they won't slide any farther. I wonder is this something that has changed since this video was made?
I agreee. Mine say the same and the forward mount is reverse of the one shown here.
@@TheFlyingPlectrum This is correct. The front mount must be slid forward until it is tight. Otherwise there is too much side to side movement. If you don't believe me just try it ... set the mount flush to the rear as shown and wiggle it back and forth. Loose right? Moving it forward eliminates that play. If you keep it there the base screw will tighten against the right side of the dovetail, pulling the mount against it (to the right). Meaning that is where the scope will ultimately point.
I tried and tried to follow this and others that say the same and my shooting so far left I didn't have windage enough to zero it. (Zeiss 1" HD-5) Shove it forward ... you'll thank me.
Sliding it forward doesn't make it tighter, it just slightly cants it to one side.
@@outdoorquesttv9946 well of course it makes it tighter … that’s the definition of a “dovetail “. But you’re right, it does move it to one side because the tension screw is on the right. Therefore, logically, when you tighten the screw to take up the slack the center of the mount moves to the right, moving the scope to the right. If you have the windage to compensate it doesn’t really matter. But my 1” Zeiss HD5 did not so I have to make sure I’m all the way forward.
BTW, you can see this easily if you note that the dovetail is even … it does not cant either way. Then look at the bottom of the base … no cant anywhere. Only variable is the screw.
@@MrMoritzbi you can actually move it left or right depending on the position on the dovetail...it's slightly canted.
how did you do 80"lbs with the wheeler wrench? mine only goes to 60. is 60 -65 enough?i have same wrench and am putting this together now...
60 is plenty
Just to get a bit of perspective as to what I need, I was wondering what size your scope is. You said you were using the "Low" rings, but you didn't mention what the bell diameter of the scope is. I like to keep my scopes close to the barrel. I will be using a 3-9x40 scope, but I don't know what rings will give me the approximate height you have there. Thanks.
That was a 50mm objective. You could likely use Extra Low.
I'm confused. I looked at the sizing chart and it said to get xlow. My scope is 56 bell.
Follow up to my previous post - the xtra low rings are a perfect fit. Glad I followed the Sako chart and not my gut feeling this time.
I have the Sako 85 Finnlight. Just bought it. But I'm a rookie so a question...the Optilock rings & bases are for the Zeiss scope only or a scope of its dimensions or ?
They work on all scopes...you just need to get the right size for scope height and tube diameter.
The front mount goes half way up the dovetail . This is how you adjust the windage if your scope adjustment runs out
Only on the one piece not the two piece!
I had these rings and bases mounted on my sako 85 black bear with a vortex viper pst.
I was never able to get a consistent grouping and eventually the magnification on the scope stopped working.
I disassembled the scope from the rings and found two dents on the bottom of the scope where it was in contact with the lower rings.
How was this possible if everything was torqued to spec?
Did you use the plastic ring spacers?
Hi, would you suggest what exactly optilock bas and rings i need for Sako 85M Bavarian with Vortex scope diamondback 3.5x10x50 1'' tube, id appreciate your help since I couldn't figure out Sako optilock chart.
Low should work perfectly.
Are all scope rings plastic?
The rings aren't plastic...the inserts are. Optilock is one of the few that offers this.
So where’s the chart . .. . .
Too much torque being used.
Specified amounts by Sako.
I actually translated the manual to english the small screws for tightening the rings around scope tubes is 15 in lbs, the lower ring to base of optilock is actually 44 inch lbs and the base to the rifle is actually 80 inch lbs (how you get that much torque from a hand turn wrench is another question) I think there is some minor confusion between hd and standard model rings and bases and the finnish only manual. These are also max torque values, i can't see how 65 inch lbs of torque would not be enough to hold the bases on the rifle.