I'm a CAD guy and it's definitely fun to draw stuff like this but it is incredibly time consuming, respect to Ivan for volunteering his time but if you haven't already, you guys should definitely hook him up with some merch or something because I'm sure that's a lot of time!
@@crossbreedperformance 3D Scanning, 3D Engineering, CAD, CAM, 3D Printing, Reverse Engineering, Engineering suspension kinematics, and other mechanical components / assemblies. Also got some motorsport background, and some knowledge in mechatronics and aerodynamics (CFD)
@@crossbreedperformance I don't know if this is at me or Ivan, but I have not done much in the way of 3D scanning but have 20+ years experience in CAD.
@@ChadPowell02 Yes, it was directed to you, and thanks for the response. I have zero knowledge about 3D scanning and CAD, but as I lay the blueprint for my project down I came to know I will probably need both but CAD for sure, so I was looking for someone with experience with it.
Tim, because of this video and build series I found out about Elegoo. I'd been wanting to get into functional printing for a long time but didn't want a full-time hobby of messing with printers to make them work. This video gave me hope that these mid-range priced printers had gotten to the point of being usable for production work outside of users who are hardcore into printing. Unboxed a Neptune 4 Max December 25th (my wife loves me), and I've been printing nonstop and it's been great. From printing a test print of a front clip of a design I'm toying with, to printing custom brackets and tools it's been fantastic. A few small issues so far, and a few failed prints. But overall I couldn't be happier so thank you for bringing these printers to my attention. My friends are already asking what I'd recommend, it to be honest it would probably still be a Babu or Prusa, but these are definitely a contender, especially once they have been support in the common slicers.
@@Programentalist not yet, but it's definitely in the works. I'm actually about to do a large ASA print and that actually is similar and in some cases higher temp requirements than PPA-CF.
Just a tip, if you're storing more filament that are not vacuum sealed, you should build a little enclosure with an air de-humidifier (a cheapo amazon one should do the trick), should be stored at about 35% humidity. It will keep your filament from going brittle which would suck if you're doing huge prints overnight. Also a good idea to take off the filament in the printers and put it in the enclosure if you're not printing for a while.
I got my 20W laser from Elegoo last summer and it's blown my expectations out of the water! Super capable machine and I got it for like $400 via the kickstarter earlybird. I think I was the 42nd person to back and it funded in like 30 min
The reason why you're 0.8 nozzle failed is due to that room being cooler, if you just bump up the printing temperature you'd probably be fine. Also, a little hair spray on the beds will help them stick if you ever run into issues with large prints.
@@TylerGotAYTAccount It could also be the volume the hotend could handle. If you don't slow down the print the heater simply can't melt the material that's being requested. I think it's been depreciated now but e3d's Volcano hotend simply had a giant heating area to melt more material.
@@TylerGotAYTAccount I'm a little late but in case any one else reads this your problem is your hot end heater block cannot melt the filament as quick as you can print it. A volcano hot end as the gardner mentioned. Or you can get a longer nozzle thread and add bolts to it and hack a cheap volcano style hot end which gives the filament time to be molten all the way through and not cause flow issues.
Do you know of any good tutorials on the proper steps to follow to go from start to finish? I'm just starting out this process, and I'd love to not do too much of the wrong basic procedures at least.
I been looking for a 3D model of the 240z. Can you share where they got the model from? Please! Man I been waiting for every one of your videos and for the first time commenting on each one. Keep it coming!!
Curious if you all had any problems with bodyworking the prints? PLA is known for melting and not sanding, did you have this problem? Also, the glass temperature of the plastic is fairly low, and did you notice any changes from the heat generated in the body filler or panel bond?
I don't know if Chris @TofuAutoWorks covered this in his 0.8mm nozzle settings, but you might just be hitting the max volume the hotend can extrude at that speed. I see it's a 60W heater which is pretty beefy - but you might just need to slow down a touch, maybe 10%?
I would get a wifi enabled power plug on each of those printers, easy way to turn one off when it's failing l, at least you aren't then wasting filiment when they fail
I'm enjoying your build series! Here are a few tips to enhance your 3D printing experience: Enhance Reliability: Utilize a PTFE tube to guide the filament into the extruder, minimizing wear on the extruder input. Employ a cable chain or PTFE tube to provide strain relief for the electric cable, reducing fatigue. Ensure SDCard Reliability: Opt for reputable branded SDCards to prevent print failures, especially during longer prints. Optimize Filament Handling: Consider using larger spools (2 kg or slightly larger) for prints and support them with skate bearings to lessen the force required by the extruder. Quality and Maintenance: Purchase additional nozzles as spares to maintain print quality, as nozzles tend to wear out after printing few kilograms. Reduce Print Time: Upgrade to a 'Volcano' style hotend with an extended (stroker) melt zone for nozzles of 0.8mm or larger with thicker layers (> 0.3mm). This upgrade will handle the necessary extrusion throughput without overheating the filament and enables to print thicker layers and/or to print faster.
My biggest weakness is I do not know CAD or design software. It's just not my forte. So I love when guys like yall can draw out a design then create. So my style is more like.. just start slapping crap together and see what works as I go. not the best plan lol
I’m just a tech nerd but will receive an HP 580 Color 3D printer with a Creaform 3D scanner….for another project I’m working on, but I’m a total gear head track guy, have farm so barns and 3000sq feet heated floor garage for my 2 full cage race cars and 4 other track cars ….mechanic lift etc fabrication equipment (for cars) etc …It’s my hobby, I work in business consulting and also make educational videos…I use adobe premier pro as software etc …started doing that before TH-cam existed and tech sucked!!! Digital cameras weren’t invented yet and transferring film to AVI was stupid difficult especially with by today’s standards archaic computers …Napster days…all that to say… have high school education nothing more and learned everything by reading etc…My question is if anyone can suggest which software is good? .. example solid works,solid edge … I’m good on a computer and driving a car depending who you ask …watching these videos will try to make aero parts …or at least moulds..any suggestions ?
the reason why larger sd cards dont work is because of the fromat of the sd card it needs to be fat format larger stuff like ntfs does not work cause the printer is to stupid
That’s unacceptable! At this point in 3D printing it’s been well established with the Ender clones that the cables get in the way. The fact companies have been ignoring this for years just shows they don’t care. That’s why the Bambu Labs X1C has been so amazing. 1 year now and zero issues.
Hahah I was comparing these Elegoo printers to Ender 3’s all summer. Bambu x1 carbons are sick! They’re on the more expensive side though. Trying to convince the machine shop at my college to buy one.
I'm a CAD guy and it's definitely fun to draw stuff like this but it is incredibly time consuming, respect to Ivan for volunteering his time but if you haven't already, you guys should definitely hook him up with some merch or something because I'm sure that's a lot of time!
Thank you, I appreciate it!
Are you skilles in 3d scanning and CAD?
@@crossbreedperformance 3D Scanning, 3D Engineering, CAD, CAM, 3D Printing, Reverse Engineering, Engineering suspension kinematics, and other mechanical components / assemblies.
Also got some motorsport background, and some knowledge in mechatronics and aerodynamics (CFD)
@@crossbreedperformance I don't know if this is at me or Ivan, but I have not done much in the way of 3D scanning but have 20+ years experience in CAD.
@@ChadPowell02 Yes, it was directed to you, and thanks for the response. I have zero knowledge about 3D scanning and CAD, but as I lay the blueprint for my project down I came to know I will probably need both but CAD for sure, so I was looking for someone with experience with it.
SQUAAAAAAAAD 🔥🔥🔥🔥 UP
Tim, because of this video and build series I found out about Elegoo. I'd been wanting to get into functional printing for a long time but didn't want a full-time hobby of messing with printers to make them work. This video gave me hope that these mid-range priced printers had gotten to the point of being usable for production work outside of users who are hardcore into printing.
Unboxed a Neptune 4 Max December 25th (my wife loves me), and I've been printing nonstop and it's been great. From printing a test print of a front clip of a design I'm toying with, to printing custom brackets and tools it's been fantastic. A few small issues so far, and a few failed prints. But overall I couldn't be happier so thank you for bringing these printers to my attention. My friends are already asking what I'd recommend, it to be honest it would probably still be a Babu or Prusa, but these are definitely a contender, especially once they have been support in the common slicers.
Have you printed any nylon CF parts? Really interested in the 4 max for printing functional parts for my car.
@@Programentalist not yet, but it's definitely in the works. I'm actually about to do a large ASA print and that actually is similar and in some cases higher temp requirements than PPA-CF.
WE NEED A COLLAB WITH TOFU!
im addicted to this build, keep it up guys
I saw this pop up on my feed and I thought it was a video about workout equipement or something from the thumbnail 😂 I had to double take.
Awesome. Cool interview segment too
Super series! Could say it is a Legacy in the making!😅
Bought merch! Keep up the good work!
Just a tip, if you're storing more filament that are not vacuum sealed, you should build a little enclosure with an air de-humidifier (a cheapo amazon one should do the trick), should be stored at about 35% humidity. It will keep your filament from going brittle which would suck if you're doing huge prints overnight. Also a good idea to take off the filament in the printers and put it in the enclosure if you're not printing for a while.
These guys are on a freaking roll!
I got my 20W laser from Elegoo last summer and it's blown my expectations out of the water! Super capable machine and I got it for like $400 via the kickstarter earlybird. I think I was the 42nd person to back and it funded in like 30 min
The reason why you're 0.8 nozzle failed is due to that room being cooler, if you just bump up the printing temperature you'd probably be fine.
Also, a little hair spray on the beds will help them stick if you ever run into issues with large prints.
I can never get my .8 nozzle to work out. I've just not the experience I guess.
@@TylerGotAYTAccount Id say bump the temperature up by 10*c and slow the pring speed down to 80% of what you normally do.
@@TylerGotAYTAccount It could also be the volume the hotend could handle. If you don't slow down the print the heater simply can't melt the material that's being requested. I think it's been depreciated now but e3d's Volcano hotend simply had a giant heating area to melt more material.
@@TylerGotAYTAccount I'm a little late but in case any one else reads this your problem is your hot end heater block cannot melt the filament as quick as you can print it.
A volcano hot end as the gardner mentioned. Or you can get a longer nozzle thread and add bolts to it and hack a cheap volcano style hot end which gives the filament time to be molten all the way through and not cause flow issues.
loving the upload scheduele
Can you show "the process" from scan (and scanner) to 3d cad. To 3d print. To mild. Like the whole process (=
Been wanting some info like this. Same work flow I am doing for a minigp track bike I'm building and putting on the streets
what 3d scanner did you get in the end?
This has been inspiring for me and what I want to do to my car.
There is resin mentioned in video description 😉😁
Bought one based off this. Hope It’s awesome!
fresh off the 3d printing press
Hey Tofu, here's your video haha
👀
you actually do not need cad surfaces. you can just high res the polygon and send it to your slicer as an stl. will allow you to skip a whole step.
Do you know of any good tutorials on the proper steps to follow to go from start to finish?
I'm just starting out this process, and I'd love to not do too much of the wrong basic procedures at least.
I been looking for a 3D model of the 240z. Can you share where they got the model from? Please!
Man I been waiting for every one of your videos and for the first time commenting on each one. Keep it coming!!
Was waiting on this! Love getting into the details of custom work 🔥
Do you mind sharing the settings that you use to have a successful print with PC-PBT?
What hotend setup to print carbon fiber are you using?
Someone knows the wall thickness of the printed parts? At the end they were printed with 0.6 or 0.8 nozzles?
Random but does the tension of the retractable cable not mess up the print? Could add a little knot for less resistance maybe.
Do you have a video of how to make a mold for a carbon panel? Like say wanting to make a couple hoods out of carbon the making a mold process
DIY 350z Carbon Fiber Roof | Making The Mold | (EP #15)(4K)
th-cam.com/video/LfjiUg3_43E/w-d-xo.html
How To Build Your Own CARBON FIBER PARTS | Vacuum Resin Infusion | (EP# 44)(4K)
th-cam.com/video/h99NEclYjeA/w-d-xo.html
Great job, can I ask how many filament rolls did you use for the whole 3D printing for the electric Z? (Did you use 1kg rolls? 0.6mm nozzle?) Thanks
Curious if you all had any problems with bodyworking the prints? PLA is known for melting and not sanding, did you have this problem? Also, the glass temperature of the plastic is fairly low, and did you notice any changes from the heat generated in the body filler or panel bond?
Def want an empty roll as merch 😂
I don't know if Chris @TofuAutoWorks covered this in his 0.8mm nozzle settings, but you might just be hitting the max volume the hotend can extrude at that speed. I see it's a 60W heater which is pretty beefy - but you might just need to slow down a touch, maybe 10%?
what 3d scan tool did you buy?
I didn't get it from video,what material are you printing with ?
Nicely done! Any issues with the PLA warping while the resin was curing?
They didnt use resin directly on the printed stuff, because they used positive (printed panels) and negative molds.
Do you keep the prints for future builds or archive or do you recycle them?
1 year after I purchased the same printers, my MR2 is going to look sick after I do some parts the same way !
The EVader would be a cool name for this car!(Star Wars referance)
I would get a wifi enabled power plug on each of those printers, easy way to turn one off when it's failing l, at least you aren't then wasting filiment when they fail
wheres part 12?
lol you got me 😂
Do you guys do custom parts?
Post sema would be cool if yall could make cheap 3d print models of the Z!
I'm enjoying your build series! Here are a few tips to enhance your 3D printing experience:
Enhance Reliability:
Utilize a PTFE tube to guide the filament into the extruder, minimizing wear on the extruder input.
Employ a cable chain or PTFE tube to provide strain relief for the electric cable, reducing fatigue.
Ensure SDCard Reliability:
Opt for reputable branded SDCards to prevent print failures, especially during longer prints.
Optimize Filament Handling:
Consider using larger spools (2 kg or slightly larger) for prints and support them with skate bearings to lessen the force required by the extruder.
Quality and Maintenance:
Purchase additional nozzles as spares to maintain print quality, as nozzles tend to wear out after printing few kilograms.
Reduce Print Time:
Upgrade to a 'Volcano' style hotend with an extended (stroker) melt zone for nozzles of 0.8mm or larger with thicker layers (> 0.3mm). This upgrade will handle the necessary extrusion throughput without overheating the filament and enables to print thicker layers and/or to print faster.
Danger hammer
Would love a fully scanned z file I could buy!
Great stuff! I really hate that I will be in Vegas the week before SEMA this year.
Will with the Knees x Xavier Xander X-ington
Just got the comgrow t500 it’s awsome check it out
ElegaZy
Ни чего не понятно но ОЧЕНЬ интересно 🤔
My biggest weakness is I do not know CAD or design software. It's just not my forte. So I love when guys like yall can draw out a design then create. So my style is more like.. just start slapping crap together and see what works as I go. not the best plan lol
wElCoMe tO tHe FuTuRe
😍😍😍😍
I’m just a tech nerd but will receive an HP 580 Color 3D printer with a Creaform 3D scanner….for another project I’m working on, but I’m a total gear head track guy, have farm so barns and 3000sq feet heated floor garage for my 2 full cage race cars and 4 other track cars ….mechanic lift etc fabrication equipment (for cars) etc …It’s my hobby, I work in business consulting and also make educational videos…I use adobe premier pro as software etc …started doing that before TH-cam existed and tech sucked!!! Digital cameras weren’t invented yet and transferring film to AVI was stupid difficult especially with by today’s standards archaic computers …Napster days…all that to say… have high school education nothing more and learned everything by reading etc…My question is if anyone can suggest which software is good? .. example solid works,solid edge … I’m good on a computer and driving a car depending who you ask …watching these videos will try to make aero parts …or at least moulds..any suggestions ?
On this episode 🗿 x dont got knees still 🗿
These 3 printers and materials will only cost you as much as an M3. Do you want an M3 to drive a car, or do you want to print fenders for an M3?
Give a Man a Fish, and You Feed Him for a Day. Teach a Man To Fish, and You Feed Him for a Lifetime...
Carbon wide bodied BMW 2002
the reason why larger sd cards dont work is because of the fromat of the sd card it needs to be fat format larger stuff like ntfs does not work cause the printer is to stupid
Nohairs
Imagine if the legacy build was being done on a subaru and the name was actually really lame.
That’s unacceptable!
At this point in 3D printing it’s been well established with the Ender clones that the cables get in the way.
The fact companies have been ignoring this for years just shows they don’t care.
That’s why the Bambu Labs X1C has been so amazing.
1 year now and zero issues.
Hahah I was comparing these Elegoo printers to Ender 3’s all summer. Bambu x1 carbons are sick! They’re on the more expensive side though. Trying to convince the machine shop at my college to buy one.