When i say this is the greatest composite fiber channel on any platform, i genuinely mean it. The excruciating details are always covered but in the clearest and most concise way. You help us pleebs genuinely understand what we are hoping to achieve in addition to the step by step process. Dark aero is a worthy near-peer, but you are the man.
@@sytran666 I'm working on a turbo 999cc briggs vanguard and a 1200cc vmax powered crosskart, and my perpetually broken 532ci 385 series bbf 1969 f100. I just try to make parts here and there with aluminum and composites. My channel is directionsnotincluded. I'm not a "TH-camr" I have just posted a couple videos.
@@2000jago It's an opinion. I don't think he's stating an objective fact or that he's trying to. I mean it would be impossible to prove that there aren't aliens out there with better composites video on a platform we don't have access to, but who cares?
Thanks Ian, you might or might not) be surprised just how much work goes into them, it’s weeks of work, scripts, shooting, retakes, feedback, self criticism, re-shooting, all with the goal of trying to make the subject as clear as possible without it ever getting boring. It’s more challenging than the composites!
@@easycompositestvthose of us who have worked in professional video production (entertainment for me) can appreciate the massive amount of behind the lens effort here
In less than 25 minutes, not rushed, you not only did a demo of a pretty complicated fabrication method, you did it in two different ways. I started watching these to see if it might be possible to add carbon fiber to my work with model aircraft, and now I'm certain I can do it. But it's not just your techniques that are good, your video presentations are really first rate. I'm sure it took days if not weeks to put together this video. Thank you and great work!
@@easycompositestv/videos Its a very interesting topic and I like the fact that your company provides everything needed. However I would caution your not to try to rely too much on vendor lock-in. For instance, revealing the formula for the metal alloys wouldn't hurt since people are often more loyal to companies that are willing to share some of their recipes and you never know when someone might be able to tweak the recipe and make a better alloy. I know that businesses, for liability reasons, like to buy things off the shelf but all those businesses usually started from a common man indulging in a new hobby. Helping people get into the hobby on a low budget can create future customers very quickly. Maybe someone will invent something very useful while playing around.
This is THE master-class on how to deliver a technical video. Broadcast quality. The content is just as amazing. Every video unlocks a new world of possibilities for me. Thank you.
The older lost mandrel technique is using regular Styrofoam. Carve/mill the foam blank to your mandrel shape. Layup the fibre/resin in the regular fashion as if it was the permeant foam core. After the epoxy cures, you can use acetone to melt the Styrofoam mandrel.
I actually did this with fiber glass for a rear speak housing in a 56 Chevy bel air. Ended up just leaving the foam to dampen its sound when tge seat belt hit it. Glad to know this was a real technique
@@easycompositestv I've seen the same thing done with home insulation foam boards. I'm pretty sure they can take high temps as they should be fire resistant. then you melt them out with acetone or paint thinner.
I could watch these videos for hours! In reality, I’ll probably never get round to making any parts like these but I still find it super interesting to know how it’s done. Thanks guys
That metal is also a great way to bend tubing without getting deformation or kinks at the bends. It's especially useful for bending thin wall tubing to keep the tubing from collapsing. I just fill the tubing, bend it, then throw the tubes in a pot of water in an old stove in my shop. Heat it up and the metal comes right out, consolidating at the bottom of the pot and can be cooled and reused.
Having a company that not only offers excellent product, but stands behind them by providing the most accurate video material and support is a rare luxury. Also, for all of us that moved out of the UK😢 the EU based warehouse is a blessing. Can’t thank you guys enough for all the hard work 👍💪💪
Thanks, that's cool to hear. It's been a video we've been meaning to make for a while. It's not the answer to most composites conundrums but for specific challenges it can be a really useful process to understand.
I've been watching your videos for a few years, they're exactly why I first started watching YT. To be educated and inspired to make things. Really amazing 👍
Well. You guys are realy a leaders of composites on the market. Many of the methods you showed before weren't known among the general population, but were known among enthusiasts. But this time you really surprised an enthusiast!! You always provide the best in-depth tech info on this topic.
Thanks very much, that’s even better to hear that we’re managing to show an enthusiast something new. Hopefully we can do this a few more times, whilst also coming back to the more conventional processes as well.
I mean, these guys are not leaders, but regular good masters. But the technology that is shown in this video is a soap bubble that does not carry any practical benefit, breakthrough technology or anything else new. This method is only an additional problem for craftsmen and confusion for small workshops. There are proven technologies that are better and simpler than the one invented and shown in this video. It seems that the video was created only for a set of views and because there is nothing more to show.
@JetMax I did not express my thought correct.. when i say leaders, i mean they are leaders of info sphere among other composite manufacturers. Yes, there are bigger companies, such as Norpol, Scott Bader etc, but they provide just boring data sheets and technical documentation, while Easy Composites provides ideas and technologies that can be utilized with their materials. And they are leaders in that sphere. I learend many things by searching and reading a lot of uncomplete and fragmental tutorials before easy composites popped up, and since then there's no need to search for any tutorials, since EC have them all. And for me it is a big motivation to pay due and try their materials.
Thanks for the kind comment, that's my first go at 3D animation so I'm glad you found it helpful, I'm sure we'll be using animation again in future videos!
Your video demonstrates the time, materials, tools and equiped work space others have to put into making a component if you were paying someone else to make your component. Value for money is not always understood. Excellent work.
I have been wanting to see something like this for years trying to figure out how to make complex induction tubes for boosted, engine applications or cold air intakes. Amazing.
What I love about mould making is the variety of techniques and options that are out there. Coming from a background of Glass casting I am automatically thinking of using the variety of Wax, moulding plaster and Clay, all of which could have their part in some parts of this type of work.
What an absolutely amazing tutorial. Thanks for doing this, as they are extremely informative and make me want to really start doing this for a load of parts.
Thanks for making this video, I never knew that using an alloy with a low melting temperature as the core for a part was even something that could be done. If I ever wanted to make a prototype of a carbon fiber part, I definitely think that this would be the way to do it
Fairly complex process but you did make a nice light-wt part. Mack trucks had some complex fiberglass engine intake shapes, long before 3D printing, we made external aluminum molds , wrapped mandrel made of inflatable rubber bladders in the laminate, wet, clamp alum molds around in a press, inflated bladder, allowed room temp cure or headed molds as reqd, and repeat! Not Light wt parts but strong. Now similar is done with blow molded abs! ( not as strong though) Cheers Warren
You always have the best ideas! Freakin wood's metal! Brilliant! Even my 3d printed nylon or PC molds can handle wood's! I only do composites for RC planes, but your channel has singlehandedly upped my hobby level to pro, seriously.
I have been trying to figure this out for the longest time and not many places on the net had info on melting mandrels. Thanks for showing this process. Could you guys do a short or episode on the proper methods of implementing fasteners and aluminum plates to avoid galvanic corrosion?
Do you really need to worry about it? Galvanic corrosion only occurs in the presence of an electrolyte solution. So unless your parts are going to get wet (and stay wet) with a salt water solution of some kind, it is not a concern. You probably can't walk through a room in your house with out walking past something that has screws running into aluminum - it is not an issue. Don't get sucked into this nonsense.
@@joshua43214 as someone who works in the automotive industry I see galvanic corrosion all the time. If I was making car parts I’d be concerned about this for sure. I guess it depends on his application.
@@KindredAutomotive Yes, cars can be very prone to this if they salt the roads enough to degrade the anodizing. In practice though, it is not a concern for most stuff. Just consider all the aluminum around you; your screen door, your TV, your siding, the signs at your local stores, etc. Galvanic corrosion *requires* an electrolyte
I emailed you guys a few weeks ago discussing upper control arms being made from CF and had a very interesting conversation!! Very cool coincidence to see this pop up! Thanks for all the content :)
If I had to guess, the alloy is effectively a type of solder. Especially because I'd imagine the alloy needs to be eutectic to avoid deformation under pressure during the initial cure. And the usually low shrinkage of eutectic alloys is a plus. If this is the case, some neat things can be done, speaking from some experience doing stained glass. You can use the lead free alloy to make the initial madrels and components, and then use the lower melting point alloy with a soldering iron to correct surface mistakes and join parts. We used lower lead solders (higher melting points) to fill large gaps, and surfaced them with the regular 60-40 because it wouldn't melt the 63-37, allowing it to sit on top.
Amazing process! I had no idea you could use those low temp alloy in such a way. Please please please keep these videos coming! Very enjoyable content! 🤜🏼🤛🏼😎🍀
Haha, yes, we could do this because we actually shot the pour twice. The first time we just had the silicone mould but the weight of the metal splayed the mould and it leaked out, so the second time we braced the mould with the plates, but this meant we had the ‘clear’ take that we could use as an overlay.
🎯 Key Takeaways for quick navigation: 00:00 📹 This video demonstrates a method for making lightweight hollow carbon fiber parts using a low-melt alloy core. 01:09 🛠️ To create these parts, you start with a pattern representing the inside shape of the component and create a silicone mold around it. 03:31 🧱 The silicone mold is used to cast a low-melt metal mandrel that will serve as the core for the carbon fiber part. 08:26 ⚖️ Calculate the amount of metal needed for the core based on the volume of the part and its density. 11:46 🔥 The metal mandrels are cast at a temperature above their melting point, ensuring they remain liquid throughout the pour. 17:02 📜 The carbon fiber part is made using prepreg carbon fiber, which is laid up over the mandrel. 19:14 🌡️ After curing, the metal core is melted out by heating the part above the melting point of the alloy. 21:06 🧼 Surface finishing involves abrading the outer surface and applying multiple coats of coating resin for a smooth finish. 22:49 ✅ The final step is to flatten the surface and finish any detailed areas by hand. 23:02 🎨 The final coating is applied for a consistent satin finish, and a thin coat of xcr resin can achieve excellent gloss results. 23:30 🚰 To clean up parts with a residual alloy lining, soaking in water can soften the alloy for easy removal with a soft bristle brush. 23:59 🏋️ The finished components are incredibly lightweight, with the induction tube weighing just 12 grams and the wishbone having structural performance suitable for a recumbent trike project. Made with HARPA AI
Awsome , I’ve heard of low melt alloys before but never actually had a go due to not being able to find any suitable and knowing the actual process without lots of experimenting . As usual your videos are priceless wealth of knowledge . Cheers 🇬🇧👍
So that's how they make swingarms!! Wow, what a playlist you guys have created👏👏 At this point, I'm just going to school to learn the proper calculations as to not hurt myself.
I've seen this same process used with house insulation foam instead of metal. you form the foam in the shape you want, wax it, create your carbon fiber shell, and then melt the foam using some kind of acetone or solvent. pink insulation foam boards are easily available at your local home depot or lowes.
Thank you for an excellent tutorial (and commercial) :) The more I watch on this channel, the more I want to make all body panels on my truck out of carbon fibre ...
These videos are so comprehensive and I couldn´t imagine a better way on how to make advertisement for a company! One suggestion would be, just for reference, to include the ~price of these pieces, split into material and labour cost.
Good suggestion. The reason we don’t do this in the video is because our videos stay useful and relevant for many years (just look at our back catalogue, some videos are 12 years old now and still totally relevant) but the prices will change over the years. What we do instead is direct viewers to the project page on our website where we have even more information and a full list of materials used in the project. We can also use the project page to provide information that would otherwise go out of date in the video. If you ask a question on the project page on our site, it will always get answered 😀.
Super cool. You really need to open a US warehouse. The competition is almost non existent . Your prices, selection, and obviously tutorials are in a separate league. I think you’d clean up.
Thanks for the comment, opening a warehouse in the US is something that we'd love to do, so maybe one day soon! In the meantime our shipping to the US is super fast and isn't too expensive for larger orders!
i thought the easy composites video's where already perfect, but the quality of this video is beyond that! I was thinking, to make the mold for the casting, the mold can be made using the investment casting technique, print the part out of PLA, put it in a bath of ceramic/ plaster and afterwards burn out the pla plastic, after casting the alloy the mould can be hammered of.
Reminds me of the late 1970's when Gossamer Albatross made the first human powered flight across the channel. In that case a 30m tubular aluminium mandrel was laid up and wrapped in shrink tape. Hot oil was pumped through to cure the composite and then acid dissolved out the tube.
VERY nice. I started watching and subbed to the channel because of my love of recumbent trikes and hoping to 1 day build 1. The melt out metal core almost seems like it should be the holy grail for a lot of bike/trike frame builds. You could easily use a silicone plug whose size would slip out in order to reduce the amount of metal to get inserted.
Dude, I doubt anyone at the company will ever see this comment but, you guys are fucking amazing! This level of useful detail in a 20minute, youtube video is nonexistent anymore and I love this. I love that a person can actually use your products to do this stuff very easily at home too. I wish you guys sold in the US tho!🤷♂️
Hey Marcus! We read all the comments, they mean a lot to us. Although we don’t have a physical base in the US, we can ship there direct from the UK. In fact, we’re currently sending hundreds of orders a week to the US. Shipping can be a bit more expensive (as you’d expect) but often quicker than US suppliers and our prices are generally lower too. And of course, we plan to open in the US one day too 😀.
Hi Iain, well spotted! We repeated the process with a piece of glass as the front plate, then merged the two. The effect is quite subtle but hopefully helps to show the process more clearly.
@@easycompositestv It looks fantastic watching the metal pour into the mold. Any chance you can comment on doing this process with wax rather than metal? There are waxes with even slightly higher melting points, and the density match to the silicone should reduce mold bulge. Also, that balancing act with the zip-tied silicone mold looked actually dangerous. I'd never do that. Why not use the 3D printed mold as reinforcement for the silicone (as someone else in this comment section suggested)?
Certainly for ambient temperature cures wax could be used, but to the best of our knowledge there aren't any waxes that have the stability to withstand 80C for the cure along with the pressure that's being applied by the consolidation. With regard to the ziptied silicone mould this was an attempt to make the pour visible, but absolutely the original barriers could have been used. To be fair that mould is surprisingly stable and with the relatively low temperature of the material I don't feel that the operation was particularly dangerous but I appreciate the feedback.
@@easycompositestv Got it! Even for room temperature cures, if a vacuum bag was used it's going to apply considerable pressure, and the wax does not have the strength that the eutectic metal alloy does. So any stresses in the part or vacuum bagging system can end up distorting the wax mandrel. Thank you. These videos are incredibly helpful. Like, we're starting a composites project that we would definitely not have taken on if it wasn't for these videos. (Order coming soon.)
Other low melting alloys: Wood's metal, also known as Lipowitz's alloy or by the commercial names Cerrobend, Bendalloy, Pewtalloy and MCP 158. Also Rose's metal, Field's metal Cerrolow 117, Cerrolow 136 and Cerrosafe.
For the wishbone, what are the advantages of this process over just laying up the prepreg over the polyurethane model board pattern? The finished piece will be lighter by the weight of the pattern, but are there other differences/advantages?
Tubular objects don't really benefit from having a core is my guess. It would be tougher with the core, but if engineering design determines you don't need it then you don't need it.
Pretty much as Lupus says, most components like this achieve a higher strength to weight ration by being hollow. A foam core of sufficient density to take a reasonable amount of consolidation pressure would weigh many grams and add little to the stiffness of the finished component. That said, there definitely are times when laminating around the outside of a core that’s left in is a good way to go. You need a core that can take prepreg curing temperatures, like Rohacell.
I have built many vacuum infused caron fiber parts for all the big 3 Automobile companies and several other electric and JMD manufaturers. I used to build similar metal mandrels and used both silicon rubbber as well as high temp epoxy molds. Just an FYI. I used a slow cooker (Cheap) to melt the alloys and keep the heat volume small for cheap electrical cost.
It's been a while since I've seen videos like this but this channel is always a treat to watch. I would like to do a project with carbon fibre one day only the price of such a cure oven is quite a lot.
You do not need a cure oven. Only prepreg CF requires it, because of the type of epoxy resin. There are plenty of epoxy and polyester resins that are ambient temperature cure.
You can indeed follow a similar process with hand laminating resins, although it would be important to use a resin that can take the temperature of the melt out. If you did use prepreg, it’s worth noting that you can use a conventional (domestic) oven for this process, you don’t need precision control and for the shrink wrapped version, you don’t even need a vacuum port into it.
You can also get a rough estimate of volume using your kitchen sink. Or your bath tub, if the part is too big. Fill it with water - enough to easily submerge the part - and mark the water line with a sharpie. Submerge the part, and mark the new water line. Remove the part, make sure the water line is back to the previous line, and measure the volume of water it takes to fill to the second mark. It'll be inaccurate, but it can get by in a pinch. The ideal way of doing this is having a container in another container, where the smallest container is large enough to fit your part. You fill the smallest inner container to the brim with water, and submerge your part. It'll displace a volume of water equal to the volume of your part to the larger container, measure that and that's your volume.
As someone with only limited practical experience, I wonder why not continuous woven sleeve, for the simple part? Seems like it should both be easier to work with, and get better material properties and cosmetics? Or are the advantages of professionally infused prepreg hard to beat? Or is it that it would be harder to conform to such a geometry than I would imagine it would?
As far as I know woven pre preg ‘ sock / sleeve ‘ is not available easily if at all . Probably due to it being less compliant when large changes in direction or diameter. Not to say there isn’t anyone out there manufacturing it . Secondly pre preg carbon fibre sock / sleeve would be harder to control resin ratio during the manufacturing process as pre preg resin is usually applied to woven carbon via a roller system and it also applies the protective film at the same time so it can be roles onto cardboard tubes . You would need an inner and outer protective film on sock / sleeve to stop the inner walls from sticking together while in manufacture and storage and that would not be practical .
@@newagetemplar6100 no i wasnt expecting such a prepreg sock to be available; let alone in the diameter or thickness or weave of interest; but I would expect pretty clean results wetting out a sock by hand.
@@eelcohoogendoorn8044 yeah sorry , thought you were on the pre preg thinking mode . Yeah you could use a dry ‘sock’ and probably quite well , generally it will bridge between an inner radius . The sock will conform quite well as if you pull both ends it will naturally tighten around the mandrel then wrap with the release tape . May get a bit messy too but as you would have to melt the core out high temp resin would have to be used so it’s way easier to use pre preg . A solid wax core is an alternative using the same process if the end product is not subject to extreme temps . Again sorry for the confusion but hope this helps
Great video. I would make a foam core for the wishbone, with some wire set into it. carbon fibre is brittle, so a bit risky for a safety component like a wishbone. The wire would (hopefully) stop it falling completely apart in a failure. ETA: I didn't realise it was for a recumbent cycle, so maybe reinforcement isn't necessary.
Enjoy watching your videos. Very easy to follow. Would you be able to include in a video of how to mold in an air fitting in the sidewall of the tubing that will be able to withstand 3-400 PSI
Very interesting method, but if you'd go with conventional fiber and vacuum bags you would probably be ok with simple high temperature wax, which coincidentally is printable, so no additional steps with casting is needed. However this is not suitable if you need to create a batch. Anyway I am very happy to see yet another one method of doing composite parts, you guys are awesome.
Thanks and yes, you’re quite right that wax could be used for the mandrel in ambient temperature cure applications. It’s not suitable for prepregs and there are other drawbacks but used as you describe, if the wax could be printed then that would indeed be a nice quick workflow for the right project 👍.
The animation at the beginning where the molten metal flowed out of the tube was a really good flow simulation. I saw it and thought "that took some time". Haha
You can also use the lay up method with dense styrene foam (insulation foam (pink/blue), carve it to the shape desired. Add the composite to the foam. When it's all cured, pour acetone into the form and the foam dissolves away into goop leaving the shell behind. The inner surface texture won't be perfectly glossy smooth unless you apply release agent, but it's a neat way to create composite shapes.
Yep, this can be a useful process. We did a video recently about mouldless construction. If possible, we’d avoid melting out styrofoam with solvent, just because of the horrible sludge it produces, but if dissolving it can’t be avoided then it’s certainly an option.
This looks mega for some aero projects in Formula student. We often need aluminium inserts within layups for end plates and winglets. Would it be reasonable to jig aluminium inserts within the melting metal during casting, and have them left behind after the final melt?
When i say this is the greatest composite fiber channel on any platform, i genuinely mean it. The excruciating details are always covered but in the clearest and most concise way. You help us pleebs genuinely understand what we are hoping to achieve in addition to the step by step process. Dark aero is a worthy near-peer, but you are the man.
what do you build?
@@sytran666 I'm working on a turbo 999cc briggs vanguard and a 1200cc vmax powered crosskart, and my perpetually broken 532ci 385 series bbf 1969 f100. I just try to make parts here and there with aluminum and composites. My channel is directionsnotincluded. I'm not a "TH-camr" I have just posted a couple videos.
@@2000jago It's an opinion. I don't think he's stating an objective fact or that he's trying to. I mean it would be impossible to prove that there aren't aliens out there with better composites video on a platform we don't have access to, but who cares?
@@2000jagoyou don't get the whole opinion thing, do you? Maybe work on the reading comprehension.
This video could be a master class of how to script, produce, and shoot a technical video. Simply incredible, and a joy to watch. Bravo!
Thanks Ian, you might or might not) be surprised just how much work goes into them, it’s weeks of work, scripts, shooting, retakes, feedback, self criticism, re-shooting, all with the goal of trying to make the subject as clear as possible without it ever getting boring. It’s more challenging than the composites!
@@easycompositestvAnd the end result is strong, clear, and lighthearted. Just like the composites you sell. Great work.🥇
@@easycompositestvthose of us who have worked in professional video production (entertainment for me) can appreciate the massive amount of behind the lens effort here
In less than 25 minutes, not rushed, you not only did a demo of a pretty complicated fabrication method, you did it in two different ways. I started watching these to see if it might be possible to add carbon fiber to my work with model aircraft, and now I'm certain I can do it. But it's not just your techniques that are good, your video presentations are really first rate. I'm sure it took days if not weeks to put together this video. Thank you and great work!
Thanks for the feedback Tom, and yes, they take weeks!
Your video's are so well done and the process so well explained I have found myself looking for excuses to try out these projects.
Thanks, that's great to hear. I hope you find the excuse you need and have a go!
I agree totally
@@easycompositestv/videos Its a very interesting topic and I like the fact that your company provides everything needed. However I would caution your not to try to rely too much on vendor lock-in. For instance, revealing the formula for the metal alloys wouldn't hurt since people are often more loyal to companies that are willing to share some of their recipes and you never know when someone might be able to tweak the recipe and make a better alloy. I know that businesses, for liability reasons, like to buy things off the shelf but all those businesses usually started from a common man indulging in a new hobby. Helping people get into the hobby on a low budget can create future customers very quickly. Maybe someone will invent something very useful while playing around.
This is THE master-class on how to deliver a technical video. Broadcast quality. The content is just as amazing. Every video unlocks a new world of possibilities for me. Thank you.
Glad you enjoy the videos. We make a lot of effort to keep the quality as high as we reasonably can.
Man the quality of these just keep getting higher and higher... That animation was smooth
The older lost mandrel technique is using regular Styrofoam. Carve/mill the foam blank to your mandrel shape. Layup the fibre/resin in the regular fashion as if it was the permeant foam core. After the epoxy cures, you can use acetone to melt the Styrofoam mandrel.
Only flaw is the limitation of the styrofoam if you want to use higher temp processes like pre-preg.
I actually did this with fiber glass for a rear speak housing in a 56 Chevy bel air. Ended up just leaving the foam to dampen its sound when tge seat belt hit it. Glad to know this was a real technique
@@brett9382 If it works its a real technique :P if it doesn't it was also a real technique but not a good one.
@@easycompositestv I've seen the same thing done with home insulation foam boards. I'm pretty sure they can take high temps as they should be fire resistant. then you melt them out with acetone or paint thinner.
I used to do this ceramics. Built up the clay around the form and it would burn out in the kiln when fired.
Next time I need composite supply I'll buy from you just because you put in all this effort. These videos are amazing and educational. Thank you!
No kidding! THIS is how you drum up business.
I could watch these videos for hours! In reality, I’ll probably never get round to making any parts like these but I still find it super interesting to know how it’s done. Thanks guys
The 95°C Metal is called "Roses Metal" containing 52% Bi, 32%Pb and 16% Sn.
The 138°C Metal is 58% Bi and 42% Sn. Sometimes 57%Bi, 42% Sn and 1Ag.
That metal is also a great way to bend tubing without getting deformation or kinks at the bends. It's especially useful for bending thin wall tubing to keep the tubing from collapsing. I just fill the tubing, bend it, then throw the tubes in a pot of water in an old stove in my shop. Heat it up and the metal comes right out, consolidating at the bottom of the pot and can be cooled and reused.
Thanks Mark, that's an interesting and useful application for a low melt alloy.
Having a company that not only offers excellent product, but stands behind them by providing the most accurate video material and support is a rare luxury.
Also, for all of us that moved out of the UK😢 the EU based warehouse is a blessing.
Can’t thank you guys enough for all the hard work 👍💪💪
I really appreciate your kind words, and thanks for supporting our guys in the Netherlands warehouse and making it the success that it is!
I have no need for any of the information provided in this video, but I watched it all. Good presentation.
I have absolutely no plan to do any of this but still watched the entire video. Great video
I have no idea why your channel does pop up once a years in my recommendation but it is always appreciated
I will most likely never build any carbon parts but still watched it from the beginning to the end!
I have done very very little composite fabrication in my life but this channel makes me want go deep into it
I think all of your videos are great but this one really blew my mind. I really want to try this myself.
Thanks for the excellent video.
Thanks, that's cool to hear. It's been a video we've been meaning to make for a while. It's not the answer to most composites conundrums but for specific challenges it can be a really useful process to understand.
I've been watching your videos for a few years, they're exactly why I first started watching YT. To be educated and inspired to make things. Really amazing 👍
Incredible. This is like watching a video from the future, but it's now! What a time to be alive!
I don't even work in manufacture but was both engaged until the end and able to follow the explanation with ease. Excellent video.
Well. You guys are realy a leaders of composites on the market. Many of the methods you showed before weren't known among the general population, but were known among enthusiasts. But this time you really surprised an enthusiast!!
You always provide the best in-depth tech info on this topic.
Thanks very much, that’s even better to hear that we’re managing to show an enthusiast something new. Hopefully we can do this a few more times, whilst also coming back to the more conventional processes as well.
No, is not. You wrong
@@Russiaconnect wdym
I mean, these guys are not leaders, but regular good masters. But the technology that is shown in this video is a soap bubble that does not carry any practical benefit, breakthrough technology or anything else new. This method is only an additional problem for craftsmen and confusion for small workshops. There are proven technologies that are better and simpler than the one invented and shown in this video. It seems that the video was created only for a set of views and because there is nothing more to show.
@JetMax I did not express my thought correct.. when i say leaders, i mean they are leaders of info sphere among other composite manufacturers. Yes, there are bigger companies, such as Norpol, Scott Bader etc, but they provide just boring data sheets and technical documentation, while Easy Composites provides ideas and technologies that can be utilized with their materials. And they are leaders in that sphere. I learend many things by searching and reading a lot of uncomplete and fragmental tutorials before easy composites popped up, and since then there's no need to search for any tutorials, since EC have them all. And for me it is a big motivation to pay due and try their materials.
It's great to get to enjoy a new video from you ! BTW, these explaining animations at 1:30 are absolutely stunning ! They help a lot to understand
Thanks for the kind comment, that's my first go at 3D animation so I'm glad you found it helpful, I'm sure we'll be using animation again in future videos!
Your video demonstrates the time, materials, tools and equiped work space others have to put into making a component if you were paying someone else to make your component.
Value for money is not always understood.
Excellent work.
Easy composites lowkey is becoming my favourite TH-cam channel !
Thanks for the comment, we replace hype with information! Plenty more to come!
After watching this video im just impressed with the details and superior description of everything!
I have been wanting to see something like this for years trying to figure out how to make complex induction tubes for boosted, engine applications or cold air intakes. Amazing.
Glad you liked it! It is an ideal application for this method.
What I love about mould making is the variety of techniques and options that are out there. Coming from a background of Glass casting I am automatically thinking of using the variety of Wax, moulding plaster and Clay, all of which could have their part in some parts of this type of work.
The team behind these videos are so good.
Never thought I'd see CF take a dump before lol
I'm watching this channel for many years, and you taught me so much. thanks! ♥
What an absolutely amazing tutorial. Thanks for doing this, as they are extremely informative and make me want to really start doing this for a load of parts.
Thanks for making this video, I never knew that using an alloy with a low melting temperature as the core for a part was even something that could be done. If I ever wanted to make a prototype of a carbon fiber part, I definitely think that this would be the way to do it
Fairly complex process but you did make a nice light-wt part.
Mack trucks had some complex fiberglass engine intake shapes, long before 3D printing, we made external aluminum molds , wrapped mandrel made of inflatable rubber bladders in the laminate, wet, clamp alum molds around in a press, inflated bladder, allowed room temp cure or headed molds as reqd, and repeat! Not Light wt parts but strong. Now similar is done with blow molded abs! ( not as strong though)
Cheers Warren
based
You always have the best ideas! Freakin wood's metal! Brilliant! Even my 3d printed nylon or PC molds can handle wood's! I only do composites for RC planes, but your channel has singlehandedly upped my hobby level to pro, seriously.
🤩 So much knowledge! Thank you!!
Thanks for watching!
I have no idea how this wound up in my feed but it's super cool
I have been trying to figure this out for the longest time and not many places on the net had info on melting mandrels. Thanks for showing this process. Could you guys do a short or episode on the proper methods of implementing fasteners and aluminum plates to avoid galvanic corrosion?
Use fiberglass for around the metal fasteners
Or fully 2k epoxy paint the fasteners
Do you really need to worry about it?
Galvanic corrosion only occurs in the presence of an electrolyte solution. So unless your parts are going to get wet (and stay wet) with a salt water solution of some kind, it is not a concern.
You probably can't walk through a room in your house with out walking past something that has screws running into aluminum - it is not an issue. Don't get sucked into this nonsense.
@@joshua43214 as someone who works in the automotive industry I see galvanic corrosion all the time. If I was making car parts I’d be concerned about this for sure. I guess it depends on his application.
@@KindredAutomotive Yes, cars can be very prone to this if they salt the roads enough to degrade the anodizing.
In practice though, it is not a concern for most stuff. Just consider all the aluminum around you; your screen door, your TV, your siding, the signs at your local stores, etc.
Galvanic corrosion *requires* an electrolyte
I emailed you guys a few weeks ago discussing upper control arms being made from CF and had a very interesting conversation!! Very cool coincidence to see this pop up! Thanks for all the content :)
You’re welcome Jakub, that’s for getting in touch with us and all the best for your project 👍.
If I had to guess, the alloy is effectively a type of solder. Especially because I'd imagine the alloy needs to be eutectic to avoid deformation under pressure during the initial cure. And the usually low shrinkage of eutectic alloys is a plus.
If this is the case, some neat things can be done, speaking from some experience doing stained glass.
You can use the lead free alloy to make the initial madrels and components, and then use the lower melting point alloy with a soldering iron to correct surface mistakes and join parts. We used lower lead solders (higher melting points) to fill large gaps, and surfaced them with the regular 60-40 because it wouldn't melt the 63-37, allowing it to sit on top.
Amazing process!
I had no idea you could use those low temp alloy in such a way.
Please please please keep these videos coming!
Very enjoyable content!
🤜🏼🤛🏼😎🍀
Thanks Steve, we will! A few in the pipeline already, as you’d expect 😀.
Loved that little editing trick at 11:44 !!!
Haha, yes, we could do this because we actually shot the pour twice. The first time we just had the silicone mould but the weight of the metal splayed the mould and it leaked out, so the second time we braced the mould with the plates, but this meant we had the ‘clear’ take that we could use as an overlay.
🎯 Key Takeaways for quick navigation:
00:00 📹 This video demonstrates a method for making lightweight hollow carbon fiber parts using a low-melt alloy core.
01:09 🛠️ To create these parts, you start with a pattern representing the inside shape of the component and create a silicone mold around it.
03:31 🧱 The silicone mold is used to cast a low-melt metal mandrel that will serve as the core for the carbon fiber part.
08:26 ⚖️ Calculate the amount of metal needed for the core based on the volume of the part and its density.
11:46 🔥 The metal mandrels are cast at a temperature above their melting point, ensuring they remain liquid throughout the pour.
17:02 📜 The carbon fiber part is made using prepreg carbon fiber, which is laid up over the mandrel.
19:14 🌡️ After curing, the metal core is melted out by heating the part above the melting point of the alloy.
21:06 🧼 Surface finishing involves abrading the outer surface and applying multiple coats of coating resin for a smooth finish.
22:49 ✅ The final step is to flatten the surface and finish any detailed areas by hand.
23:02 🎨 The final coating is applied for a consistent satin finish, and a thin coat of xcr resin can achieve excellent gloss results.
23:30 🚰 To clean up parts with a residual alloy lining, soaking in water can soften the alloy for easy removal with a soft bristle brush.
23:59 🏋️ The finished components are incredibly lightweight, with the induction tube weighing just 12 grams and the wishbone having structural performance suitable for a recumbent trike project.
Made with HARPA AI
1:24 Dann such a high quality video, a step up from an already amazing quality
These videos make me really wish I had a project that would necessitate composites.
Great video! It got me thinking about how many of my own projects this method could be used for. Also, 12g is impressively light!
amazing innovation
Awsome , I’ve heard of low melt alloys before but never actually had a go due to not being able to find any suitable and knowing the actual process without lots of experimenting .
As usual your videos are priceless wealth of knowledge .
Cheers
🇬🇧👍
Thanks very much, appreciate the feedback and now you know where you can get some low-melt alloy from 😉.
So that's how they make swingarms!! Wow, what a playlist you guys have created👏👏
At this point, I'm just going to school to learn the proper calculations as to not hurt myself.
Fascinating process and really well explained.
Thanks Greg, glad you found it useful.
Another killer video, one my favorite channels on TH-cam
I've seen this same process used with house insulation foam instead of metal. you form the foam in the shape you want, wax it, create your carbon fiber shell, and then melt the foam using some kind of acetone or solvent. pink insulation foam boards are easily available at your local home depot or lowes.
Thank you for an excellent tutorial (and commercial) :)
The more I watch on this channel, the more I want to make all body panels on my truck out of carbon fibre ...
Excellent videos. This style of manufacturing is still very prevalent in todays industries. I will be attempting this next year.
These videos are so comprehensive and I couldn´t imagine a better way on how to make advertisement for a company!
One suggestion would be, just for reference, to include the ~price of these pieces, split into material and labour cost.
Good suggestion. The reason we don’t do this in the video is because our videos stay useful and relevant for many years (just look at our back catalogue, some videos are
12 years old now and still totally relevant) but the prices will change over the years. What we do instead is direct viewers to the project page on our website where we have even more information and a full list of materials used in the project. We can also use the project page to provide information that would otherwise go out of date in the video. If you ask a question on the project page on our site, it will always get answered 😀.
That's an awesome process, and an even better explanation of how to go about it. Pure genius. Many thanks.
I'm glad you enjoyed it, thanks for the kind words!
Super cool. You really need to open a US warehouse. The competition is almost non existent . Your prices, selection, and obviously tutorials are in a separate league. I think you’d clean up.
Thanks for the comment, opening a warehouse in the US is something that we'd love to do, so maybe one day soon! In the meantime our shipping to the US is super fast and isn't too expensive for larger orders!
i thought the easy composites video's where already perfect, but the quality of this video is beyond that! I was thinking, to make the mold for the casting, the mold can be made using the investment casting technique, print the part out of PLA, put it in a bath of ceramic/ plaster and afterwards burn out the pla plastic, after casting the alloy the mould can be hammered of.
Your videos are so informative, thank you. I like making stuff and I think your channel has inspired me to start making composite parts
Reminds me of the late 1970's when Gossamer Albatross made the first human powered flight across the channel.
In that case a 30m tubular aluminium mandrel was laid up and wrapped in shrink tape. Hot oil was pumped through to cure the composite and then acid dissolved out the tube.
Absolutely stellar demo. Thank you.
VERY nice.
I started watching and subbed to the channel because of my love of recumbent trikes and hoping to 1 day build 1. The melt out metal core almost seems like it should be the holy grail for a lot of bike/trike frame builds. You could easily use a silicone plug whose size would slip out in order to reduce the amount of metal to get inserted.
Thanks for the comment Alan, I hope to do a velomobile build in the channel one day, I'm sure this method will come in handy for a lot of the parts!
It’s fantastic how You explain whole process. Thank You.
Thanks for the kind words, we do our best!
It's an amazing useful video. Thanks a lot
Fantastic. Very well executed and explained. 👍🏻👍🏻
Once again a very educational, easy to understand tutorial. Much appreciated. Keep up the great work!
Thanks Robert, appreciate the feedback.
Imagine you Would use This Technique on a submarine that would be so smart.
As always a SUPERB Video! Thank you very very much !
Dude, I doubt anyone at the company will ever see this comment but, you guys are fucking amazing! This level of useful detail in a 20minute, youtube video is nonexistent anymore and I love this. I love that a person can actually use your products to do this stuff very easily at home too. I wish you guys sold in the US tho!🤷♂️
Hey Marcus! We read all the comments, they mean a lot to us. Although we don’t have a physical base in the US, we can ship there direct from the UK. In fact, we’re currently sending hundreds of orders a week to the US. Shipping can be a bit more expensive (as you’d expect) but often quicker than US suppliers and our prices are generally lower too. And of course, we plan to open in the US one day too 😀.
Quality of your work is amazing, loving it! Thank you guys!
Thanks for the great feedback - it genuinely makes it all worthwhile and makes us want to keep making the content.
@11:43 What just happened to the front plate? Did you somehow do another shot with the front plate removed, or are you using a simulation/animation?
Hi Iain, well spotted! We repeated the process with a piece of glass as the front plate, then merged the two. The effect is quite subtle but hopefully helps to show the process more clearly.
@@easycompositestv It looks fantastic watching the metal pour into the mold.
Any chance you can comment on doing this process with wax rather than metal? There are waxes with even slightly higher melting points, and the density match to the silicone should reduce mold bulge.
Also, that balancing act with the zip-tied silicone mold looked actually dangerous. I'd never do that. Why not use the 3D printed mold as reinforcement for the silicone (as someone else in this comment section suggested)?
Certainly for ambient temperature cures wax could be used, but to the best of our knowledge there aren't any waxes that have the stability to withstand 80C for the cure along with the pressure that's being applied by the consolidation. With regard to the ziptied silicone mould this was an attempt to make the pour visible, but absolutely the original barriers could have been used. To be fair that mould is surprisingly stable and with the relatively low temperature of the material I don't feel that the operation was particularly dangerous but I appreciate the feedback.
@@easycompositestv Got it! Even for room temperature cures, if a vacuum bag was used it's going to apply considerable pressure, and the wax does not have the strength that the eutectic metal alloy does. So any stresses in the part or vacuum bagging system can end up distorting the wax mandrel.
Thank you. These videos are incredibly helpful. Like, we're starting a composites project that we would definitely not have taken on if it wasn't for these videos. (Order coming soon.)
that's genuinely a great idea
So cool man. I want to make everything I own into carbon fibre versions haha!
Other low melting alloys:
Wood's metal, also known as Lipowitz's alloy or by the commercial names Cerrobend, Bendalloy, Pewtalloy and MCP 158.
Also Rose's metal, Field's metal Cerrolow 117, Cerrolow 136 and Cerrosafe.
So well explained. Although you made that look so easy, i know from dabling in CF a few years ago it really isn't.
Excellent job. 👌
For the wishbone, what are the advantages of this process over just laying up the prepreg over the polyurethane model board pattern? The finished piece will be lighter by the weight of the pattern, but are there other differences/advantages?
Tubular objects don't really benefit from having a core is my guess. It would be tougher with the core, but if engineering design determines you don't need it then you don't need it.
Pretty much as Lupus says, most components like this achieve a higher strength to weight ration by being hollow. A foam core of sufficient density to take a reasonable amount of consolidation pressure would weigh many grams and add little to the stiffness of the finished component. That said, there definitely are times when laminating around the outside of a core that’s left in is a good way to go. You need a core that can take prepreg curing temperatures, like Rohacell.
Thank you so much for the thoughtful reply.
This is really cool. 🤔👍
I have built many vacuum infused caron fiber parts for all the big 3 Automobile companies and several other electric and JMD manufaturers. I used to build similar metal mandrels and used both silicon rubbber as well as high temp epoxy molds. Just an FYI. I used a slow cooker (Cheap) to melt the alloys and keep the heat volume small for cheap electrical cost.
It's been a while since I've seen videos like this but this channel is always a treat to watch. I would like to do a project with carbon fibre one day only the price of such a cure oven is quite a lot.
You do not need a cure oven. Only prepreg CF requires it, because of the type of epoxy resin.
There are plenty of epoxy and polyester resins that are ambient temperature cure.
You can indeed follow a similar process with hand laminating resins, although it would be important to use a resin that can take the temperature of the melt out. If you did use prepreg, it’s worth noting that you can use a conventional (domestic) oven for this process, you don’t need precision control and for the shrink wrapped version, you don’t even need a vacuum port into it.
"Hi, Paul here from Easy Composites.." Me, Smashing the Like Button!!!
You can also get a rough estimate of volume using your kitchen sink. Or your bath tub, if the part is too big. Fill it with water - enough to easily submerge the part - and mark the water line with a sharpie. Submerge the part, and mark the new water line. Remove the part, make sure the water line is back to the previous line, and measure the volume of water it takes to fill to the second mark.
It'll be inaccurate, but it can get by in a pinch. The ideal way of doing this is having a container in another container, where the smallest container is large enough to fit your part. You fill the smallest inner container to the brim with water, and submerge your part. It'll displace a volume of water equal to the volume of your part to the larger container, measure that and that's your volume.
These videos are incredible, thanks for making them!!!
Thanks CNCAddict, it's a pleasure making the videos is the best part of my job, thanks for watching!
As someone with only limited practical experience, I wonder why not continuous woven sleeve, for the simple part? Seems like it should both be easier to work with, and get better material properties and cosmetics? Or are the advantages of professionally infused prepreg hard to beat? Or is it that it would be harder to conform to such a geometry than I would imagine it would?
As far as I know woven pre preg ‘ sock / sleeve ‘ is not available easily if at all . Probably due to it being less compliant when large changes in direction or diameter. Not to say there isn’t anyone out there manufacturing it .
Secondly pre preg carbon fibre sock / sleeve would be harder to control resin ratio during the manufacturing process as pre preg resin is usually applied to woven carbon via a roller system and it also applies the protective film at the same time so it can be roles onto cardboard tubes .
You would need an inner and outer protective film on sock / sleeve to stop the inner walls from sticking together while in manufacture and storage and that would not be practical .
@@newagetemplar6100 no i wasnt expecting such a prepreg sock to be available; let alone in the diameter or thickness or weave of interest; but I would expect pretty clean results wetting out a sock by hand.
@@eelcohoogendoorn8044 yeah sorry , thought you were on the pre preg thinking mode .
Yeah you could use a dry ‘sock’ and probably quite well , generally it will bridge between an inner radius . The sock will conform quite well as if you pull both ends it will naturally tighten around the mandrel then wrap with the release tape .
May get a bit messy too but as you would have to melt the core out high temp resin would have to be used so it’s way easier to use pre preg .
A solid wax core is an alternative using the same process if the end product is not subject to extreme temps .
Again sorry for the confusion but hope this helps
What a great video. Thanks for taking the time to make them. So interesting.
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it 😀
Great video. I would make a foam core for the wishbone, with some wire set into it. carbon fibre is brittle, so a bit risky for a safety component like a wishbone. The wire would (hopefully) stop it falling completely apart in a failure.
ETA: I didn't realise it was for a recumbent cycle, so maybe reinforcement isn't necessary.
Adding a comment to help the algorithm and also encourage you to put out more excellent videos. Thank you.
Haha, thanks Karl; good to feed the algorithm!
Enjoy watching your videos. Very easy to follow. Would you be able to include in a video of how to mold in an air fitting in the sidewall of the tubing that will be able to withstand 3-400 PSI
As always, an amazing video. Thanks easy composites
That's awesome!!! Now I NEED to make something, but I don't know what yet...
I am hoping to fabricate an induction system for my VW aero engine.....this video is super encouraging.
Great tutorial, like the other ones on this channel!
Making a CF front splitter for my car seems doable by myself now👍
Very interesting method, but if you'd go with conventional fiber and vacuum bags you would probably be ok with simple high temperature wax, which coincidentally is printable, so no additional steps with casting is needed. However this is not suitable if you need to create a batch.
Anyway I am very happy to see yet another one method of doing composite parts, you guys are awesome.
Thanks and yes, you’re quite right that wax could be used for the mandrel in ambient temperature cure applications. It’s not suitable for prepregs and there are other drawbacks but used as you describe, if the wax could be printed then that would indeed be a nice quick workflow for the right project 👍.
Please do more videos. I love to watch them :)
The animation at the beginning where the molten metal flowed out of the tube was a really good flow simulation. I saw it and thought "that took some time". Haha
Haha. It did!
@@easycompositestv Yall's content is rocking! Thanks for putting in the time for us.
As someone how works on an FS car making wishbones like this is incredibly tempting
Yo Paul thanks some day I hope to be able to ask in more detail about a project that I came up with again I will continue to watch and learn
OK, well, I look forward to it, in the meantime keep learning and planning 👍.
Could you do something similar with 3d printed parts made with water soluble filaments?
Can't wait for a Formula Student team to try this technique on their suspension.
Challenge accepted!
20:00 me after my morning coffee
You can also use the lay up method with dense styrene foam (insulation foam (pink/blue), carve it to the shape desired. Add the composite to the foam. When it's all cured, pour acetone into the form and the foam dissolves away into goop leaving the shell behind. The inner surface texture won't be perfectly glossy smooth unless you apply release agent, but it's a neat way to create composite shapes.
Yep, this can be a useful process. We did a video recently about mouldless construction. If possible, we’d avoid melting out styrofoam with solvent, just because of the horrible sludge it produces, but if dissolving it can’t be avoided then it’s certainly an option.
This looks mega for some aero projects in Formula student. We often need aluminium inserts within layups for end plates and winglets. Would it be reasonable to jig aluminium inserts within the melting metal during casting, and have them left behind after the final melt?
I can't see a problem with that, the aluminum will not melt 🤣