I just finished watching Mighty Car Mod's dyno test with an S2000 testing the cold air intake. They gained 6.7kw high in the power band (if my conversion of kilowatts to horsepower is correct) up to 124.4hp from 117.7hp. But they lost 1.34hp low in the power band which would be unnoticeable in the real world
Sam I am CAI stands for cold air intake and they are designed to suck in cold air outside the engine bay. The ones that suck in hot air is short ram intakes.
Exactly as expected. Reduced pumping losses at high rpm. 4.6% for a few hundred bucks is nothing to snuff at. People seem to use this to poke fun at people who mess around with their stock intakes: who, being interested in car performance, wouldn't trade 3% bottom end power for 4% mid-top end gain? Your engine (tends to) make more power at mid to top end anyways. Most small displacement engine owners know they have to downshift to higher rpm to pass. Tuning is about specialization: car companies want you to have fun buzzing around town getting groceries. So they compromise top end power. You won't miss 3% buzzing around getting groceries. You will miss 4% trying to merge onto a busy highway. And anyone who is a "Car enthusiast" with a car of some performance who hasn't "dipped into the power" almost daily during their commute/errands etc. is missing the point.
I agree. Top end percentage gains are much larger since power increases in a linear fashion going from low to high rpm. I.e. lose 3hp low rpm but gain 10hp mid to high rpm.
I think this is the most knowledgeable comment on any CAI video ever. I'm also a green horn but it makes a lot of sense, especially considering I drive a 4-cylinder and reach rpms over 3000 quite often. I also live in northern Michigan so a decent amount of open road for passing. Would also apply for merging on to expressways or getting on to busy highways. Just my drunk thought.
Dude I have a 1.2l 4 cyl sedan and I always drive "enthusiastically" so my RPM is always high up with this tiny engine. I think I would get that 3% on the top end.
I really love the way you explain all that stuff with so much precision! It's something I would like to do too but I don't have the needed material. Keep going !
Another great video. Whether people are using a cold air intake for daily driving or the track, the 5 lbs weight reduction will help in either scenario.
Hello, I have a GT86 with a CAI, and I also could prove the theory in here, I had just an Inlet Hose, with the stock Intake, but when I bolted on the CAI, the car felt slower, less throttle response at the beginning, really the Stock Intake was accelerating faster, but when i tested top speed, the CAI worked better (before with the stock intake, it reached a 228 km/h while with the CAI it reached 238 km/h). My hypothesis were 1. The ECU remapped the injection as more air went through the MAF sensor, so it can match up and try to keep the same A/F ratios and everything else to remain within the stock parameters (exhaust gas temperatures) 2. That the tube was longer, so it ment more work for the air to travel when opening up the throttle, giving that lag in acceleration, but resulting in a better top speed. We know the air tube has less restriction, but it has to travel further since the air entry point is normally behind the bumper and has to travel further, contrary to the stock intake which is mainly in the engine bay. I´ll try my car on a Dyno next week. Thats why I´ve heard people say that the Short Ram Intake has a much better throttle response than the cold air intake. Thank you very much.
It really depends on the intake. You can find CAIs that produce more power throughout the entire rpm range, conversely you can find ones that are negative the entire range.
As someone who'd take your comment somewhat seriously (not me). No I don't believe TH-camrs have essentially sold their soul for success. TH-cam makes possible for people to have success in video, where normal networks would consider these individuals small time. On the funny side, your comment is hilarious! (I've already lost the attention span of too many people looking for a quick laugh, lol) It's just a computer algorithm to put like and popular content together, lol.
I put one on my go kart 01 Civic daily driver I just bought. The stock air cleaner lid is held on by screws all of which were rusted into the inserts, no way to get the lid off to change the filter. It made a huge difference only because the stock intake tube and resonator had a critter nest in it I discovered after removing them. Moral of the story, the results will vary greatly depending on how good the stock system is. Great video.
The difference in times between the two air intakes is not due to the air being colder or hotter. It's purely down to the design and diameter of the intake as you can see it reduced acceleration time at low rpm but increases at high rpm. All air intakes will be different and give different results.
I like that you drive something different and seem very knowledgeable and humble, most people in the car scene where I'm from all drive the same basic cars and are snobs who dont really know much about cars at all
Also if you get a cold air intake, you should probably get a tune as well to see better improvements across the board. Otherwise your results will vary by car. Could be worse across the board instead of better at the higher end.. ECU's also on stock settings take time to adjust to changes.
I'm really glad I watched the SRI and this video before I got mine. I go relatively fast in my car, but only in the spots that I can. I drive into the city every day and I'm constantly stuck in traffic. So, thanks for the clarifications!
What may be an interesting test in the future is between so-called cold air intakes of different lengths and diameters. Since this is part of the entire intake system from air inlet to combustion chamber, one has to wonder if you could find a bit of a sweet spot in the rpm range that you may utilize the most. Somewhat similar to what us old school guys used to do with different styles and configurations of spacers under a carburetor. In the past, while tuning a new combination, I could possibly traverse the 1/8th mile in drag racing (I usually raced a couple different local 1/8th mile tracks) over a tenth quicker with the proper spacer, which is significant in 1/8th mile drag racing..
if you drive even semi-aggressively it wasnt a waste of money. SMH @ people that mod cars or buy sports cars and never use it. "hey check out my veyron, im never going to take it over 30mph or 1500 rpms"
Hi Engineering Explained now i watched all the videos about air intakes, cat back exhaust and all the test. I saw something, you don't leave the car to adapt. This is a Honda and honda's ECU tend to adapt around new changes. Normally this takes some time with mine this is around 60 to 120 miles of driving. The ECU makes new egnition timings, makes a whole new map for the car to run for. When you change "ass fast as you can" the intake or the exhaust, or the ignition or something the results will be the same because the car uses the old map and tries to adapt around the changes with a little bit more fuel and timing and so on. So in order to make the tests as correct as possible you need to change the intake then drive it at least 60 miles with low RPM's mixed with red lining and then you'll get the difference, you will be amazed how dramaticly the car changes in time of driving :)
Now test a stock air intake system with a high performance air filter like K & N. I have a feeling most stock cars may benefit from using the stock air intake with a high performance air filter and an upgraded exhaust system.
@@charlieswearingen500 i' m thinking of putting the stock airbox with the pipercross free air flow filter back to its place........... according to the analysis.....it will work better than the CAI!!!!!!!
Majority of people dont care about the negligible loss in power at low RPM. The sound/symphony it creates is more than enough to compensate for the loss of low RPM power. It makes the car more enjoyable to drive, which is a reason alot of people get them. Thank you for the video though, it clarifies alot of misconceptions
Now, put individual throttle body's on it and do 3 runs without a filter attached, and 3 with the filter attached. Might be a bit much work for just a test... but I am curious to see the difference between the two, I'm also interested to see the difference between individual throttle bodies and traditional single throttle body set ups like your car has now.
I also think you need to consider your elevation. i have seen where these intakes are better at higher elevation where the air is thinner and it's harder for the vehicle to breathe. At lower elevations the air is already thicker and heavier so you won't see as much of an improvement. Air density does make a difference.
LeeVai666 do you want me to call the doctor for that butthurt or are you going to be ok? you don't have to comment on here just to make yourself feel better about your mistake.
John Eydelson thank you, this is exactly why this video was a waste of time and thus proving this kid wasted his money on 2 intakes and a dozen dyno runs on an old ass integra that isnt worth the time modding to begin with.
I’d say drag and track cars do benefit more than daily drivers. I wouldn’t put this in something like a camry. But I think trucks are an exception there if you use them for like hauling or since they’re mileage is so bad it can’t hurt to have one in there
to take full advantage of the CAI you need to have a chip/tuner on your car and you can even take it a step further by upgrading your fuel injectors and mass air sensor for larger gains
Buddy my daily driver DOES spend a lot of its time between 3-6K RPM. Every stop light gets rekt. And I take off at 3K (thanks, clutch!). Bring on the CAI!
is everyone just going to disregard the 16 percent difference in humidity? if this was a more controlled environment you'd see better results from the cai.
You guys please, all forgetting the purpose of a CAI, it's most applicable in hot weather places as it helps to cool the air to the explosion chambers, the environment temperature best for CAI's best performance is above 65 ºF, below this, there's almost no purpose of use, below this just keep your stock air filter. The environment temperature is the most important factor for a CAI's best performance, that the hottest the best, it will suck the expanded hot air and compress it into the explosion chamber giving more air to the chamber in the moment of explosion and this way more power, helping in the same time the engine's cooling.
Yes, but attention, do not use it in winter time, the best is when is above 65 ºF or 18 ºC, and the hotter the best! If you are able to isolate the CAI from the engine's heat then it will be awesome. I installed a brand new A/C way more powerful than the standard one, so i also installed a CAI, no problems when i need more power from the engine, and the temperatures going above 85 ºF, it just slides on asphalt.
How about you just dont get one? They are over rated, what do you get from one? 3 maybe 4 hp? Maaaybe a little more? First thing is get a better exhaust!!! Better tires!!! Then get a better intake but remember to get your ecu tuned for your new setup you are wasting your money otherwise!!
personally I think performance mods like this are all psychological. its just like when you go to the gym and you left one time and then the next day you swear on your grave you just gained 5 pounds of muscle. But realistically you didn't gain anything. I feel that's how a cold air intake is. Psychologically you think you're getting more power and or better fuel mileage but nothing has changed.. and another thing people are saying you need to get a tune after you put a cold air intake on. That's not true. All you realistically have to do is unplug the negative battery cable for let's say 10 seconds. And then you plug it back in and that will reset the computer and after you've driven your car or truck for so many miles the computer will learn that it can breathe easier. But that doesn't necessarily mean you're going to end take more air. You can only fit so much air in the combustion chamber. If you want more air to be crammed into the combustion chamber that's where a supercharger or turbo comes in. A cold air intake isn't going to force more air into the combustion chamber.
I wonder if the change in the power band would be different if the car had vtec? considering vtec causes the intake valves to open further, which draws in more air, I would naturally assume that under those circumstances an engine would benefit more from a cold air intake.
I've just watched both of your Short Ram and CAI videos, and they are wonderfully informative. My only question is whether having a Turbocharged car would make any difference to those numbers. The air getting to the turbo and then being pushed harder into the engine would make the car accelerate faster, wouldn't it? Or is my understanding of how a turbo works a bit off... Thanks for the help!
open cold air is also bad cuz the heat from the engine bay loses power and if you drive on dirt a lot, the open filter doesn't work as well as a enclosed box.
I ran a flex duct from the intake out through a hole cut into my front fender out around through an open window to inside the car to front of my air conditioner vent. I blast cold a/c into. I gained 300 horsepower instantly. So fast.
a DIY Car Guy Yeah, I'd imagine the compression and intercooler would play a much larger role in the intake temperature than the air filter. Depending on the intercooler size, the filter may not change the temp at all.
The power difference from cold air intakes and short ram is not so much in cold/warm air. It is mainly affected by diameter and length of the intake itself, longer intake usualy benefits peak torque at higher rpm.
It really is a car by car basis though. Some have poorly placed/designed intakes that restrict flow. Outside that, the filter you have makes a big difference as well. Some "top quality" and name brand filters can actually be more restricted than a stock filter largely due to the oil used.
I think the numbers are skewed a bit as the AEM intake was mostly sucking ambient air out of the engine bay and not isolated for external air. You had better result do to more air being pushed into the grill along with the AEM.
First, I love your videos and how much I learn from them! Second, what if I couple a cold air intake with a cat-back exhaust with a larger diameter (than the stock pipes)? Would both of those working together help the vehicle breathe better to a point where I'd get better times all around?
Well usually cold air intake systems are made for high RPM range area such as for track and drifting, etc not to mention when you do obtain a Cold air intake system it does give a HP gain Estimated horsepower gain of 5.24 HP at 5400 RPM
When you drive under 3k you already have lots of throttle left so lots of power left to use if needed. So unless your daily drive floored to 3k and then back off there will be no loss of actual power. Where you drive floored is wide open top and mid-range as you have to pass midrange to get there and so increase in air and power is worth the intake.
I think bigger displacement engines benefit from cold air intakes the most. A small displacement engine isn't really capable of using the extra air coming in especially down low. Thats why hondas 4 cylinders may get 4-10 hp gain depending on the set up & corvettes gain around 10-50 hp depending on set up (supercharger ect.).
The fact is that cold air intakes do benefit.. but you also have to have a performance exhaust and may also have to have your engine tuned. Also you should have the negative batt cable disconnected so the computer and sensors can reset them selves. The guy in this video probably did not have a performance exhaust as well.
a cold air intake is useless unless you have a high flow cat back exhaust system and at least half an hour tuning on a dyno. in other words theses tests are not proving much. it's simple logic: you can't let more air in (through the intake) if the exhaust limits the air going out. also you need a tuning after these mods because you need to find the perfect fuel to air ratio if you are letting more air in.
Precisely. I'm getting a CAI, a Revo stage 1 tune, and a Miltek catback exhaust on my GTI. The tune is what brings a CAI and an exhaust to work together to create power gains.
El Menol assuming you are able to get a good air/fuel ratio you might gain significantly. you might want to upgrade the fuel injectors too and get it tuned properly.
Best way to know in my opinion is to do several 0-60 runs( which I have done in my Honda Civic lx) the time is consistenly 8.5 to 9.5. Now I’m expecting the cold air intake to show an increase in overall 0-60 times.
Truth Seeker you can make it work, just have to extend it a bit, buy same size tubing, and a coupler and extend it to the corner or the engine bay by the tire, attach filter and rain sock. pull it away from the hot engine and all that hot air. If it's catching cold air down there you will get extra 20hp. Might take some work .... But worth it .. put real hood scoop or side vents..
Paul Perkins wait in this scenario is he a fan of knitting so he is driving fast or does he hate knitting and he is driving slow? and if he hates it why would he go?
I run a Cold air intake on my 05 GT now yes it does make the car louder when its hot outside or just humit it doesn't make a difference it runs a little lower on RPMs and lower on sound but im running the stock throttle body still. But when its cool outside or low humidy man you can tell on the throttle reponse and how loud it is and fuel millage . So if you want a constant feel on power get a better throttle body or tune so weather isn't as much as a factor.
You say bad for daily drivers but how about testing fuel efficiency at those low RPM ranges and see if maybe you get better mileage with stock or aftermarket?
It would be interesting to see the cumulative acceleration improvements comparing stock and modded (weight reduction, exhaust, intake) up to this point.
Yep, I have a table with all the data in it, perhaps I'll do something like this eventually. I allow access to all of my data (besides just Project Integra) on my Patreon page as a second tier reward. www.patreon.com/EngineeringExplained
+Unanimous0001 In all seriousness, it is a system developed by Honda of giving an engine two different camshaft profiles on either the intake camshaft or exhaust or both depending on engine load or rpm. Wikipedia or Google VTEC for more detailed explanation.
I just like the whoosh sound
Hellfest the Infernal me to lol
Hellfest the Infernal i just wanted to be the hundreth like
We all do hahahhaa
I just finished watching Mighty Car Mod's dyno test with an S2000 testing the cold air intake. They gained 6.7kw high in the power band (if my conversion of kilowatts to horsepower is correct) up to 124.4hp from 117.7hp. But they lost 1.34hp low in the power band which would be unnoticeable in the real world
@Sam I am nah she just drank too many Baja Blasts hombre
Some car's factory intakes are better designed than others. It all depends on the car you drive, some models will benefit from a CAI, others will not.
Sam I am CAI stands for cold air intake and they are designed to suck in cold air outside the engine bay. The ones that suck in hot air is short ram intakes.
Exactly as expected. Reduced pumping losses at high rpm. 4.6% for a few hundred bucks is nothing to snuff at.
People seem to use this to poke fun at people who mess around with their stock intakes: who, being interested in car performance, wouldn't trade 3% bottom end power for 4% mid-top end gain? Your engine (tends to) make more power at mid to top end anyways. Most small displacement engine owners know they have to downshift to higher rpm to pass. Tuning is about specialization: car companies want you to have fun buzzing around town getting groceries. So they compromise top end power. You won't miss 3% buzzing around getting groceries. You will miss 4% trying to merge onto a busy highway.
And anyone who is a "Car enthusiast" with a car of some performance who hasn't "dipped into the power" almost daily during their commute/errands etc. is missing the point.
I agree. Top end percentage gains are much larger since power increases in a linear fashion going from low to high rpm. I.e. lose 3hp low rpm but gain 10hp mid to high rpm.
you should be a cold air intake salesman, insightful comment thanks!
I think this is the most knowledgeable comment on any CAI video ever. I'm also a green horn but it makes a lot of sense, especially considering I drive a 4-cylinder and reach rpms over 3000 quite often. I also live in northern Michigan so a decent amount of open road for passing. Would also apply for merging on to expressways or getting on to busy highways. Just my drunk thought.
Well said ‼️
Dude I have a 1.2l 4 cyl sedan and I always drive "enthusiastically" so my RPM is always high up with this tiny engine. I think I would get that 3% on the top end.
Well I only speed in my daily driver so I'm still good :D
I really love the way you explain all that stuff with so much precision! It's something I would like to do too but I don't have the needed material. Keep going !
I don't care about power, or speed, I care about the sound!
And a ricer was born 😐
Good sounds are different.
I bet you pee when you sit down too
Ricerr😂😂😂
Im lost on that comment bro.
Really glad I found your channel. Between you and ChrisFix I feel so much more capable to do many of my own repairs.
Another great video. Whether people are using a cold air intake for daily driving or the track, the 5 lbs weight reduction will help in either scenario.
I've watched some of your videos. You're meticulous with your data and calculations, I like that.
Hello, I have a GT86 with a CAI, and I also could prove the theory in here, I had just an Inlet Hose, with the stock Intake, but when I bolted on the CAI, the car felt slower, less throttle response at the beginning, really the Stock Intake was accelerating faster, but when i tested top speed, the CAI worked better (before with the stock intake, it reached a 228 km/h while with the CAI it reached 238 km/h).
My hypothesis were
1. The ECU remapped the injection as more air went through the MAF sensor, so it can match up and try to keep the same A/F ratios and everything else to remain within the stock parameters (exhaust gas temperatures)
2. That the tube was longer, so it ment more work for the air to travel when opening up the throttle, giving that lag in acceleration, but resulting in a better top speed. We know the air tube has less restriction, but it has to travel further since the air entry point is normally behind the bumper and has to travel further, contrary to the stock intake which is mainly in the engine bay.
I´ll try my car on a Dyno next week.
Thats why I´ve heard people say that the Short Ram Intake has a much better throttle response than the cold air intake.
Thank you very much.
I am so glad you're modding an Integra GS, the exact car model as mine!
It really depends on the intake. You can find CAIs that produce more power throughout the entire rpm range, conversely you can find ones that are negative the entire range.
This next to MCM video on similar topic... coincidence? I think not. Illuminati.
As someone who'd take your comment somewhat seriously (not me). No I don't believe TH-camrs have essentially sold their soul for success. TH-cam makes possible for people to have success in video, where normal networks would consider these individuals small time.
On the funny side, your comment is hilarious! (I've already lost the attention span of too many people looking for a quick laugh, lol) It's just a computer algorithm to put like and popular content together, lol.
I didn't know you were into cars, I used to watch your videos all the time when I was into Nerf!
Yooo man i use to watch u when i was a kid
So if you drive fast it’s worth getting a cold air intake basically 🏁
Ya, no one is buying driving under 3K RPM
I put one on my go kart 01 Civic daily driver I just bought. The stock air cleaner lid is held on by screws all of which were rusted into the inserts, no way to get the lid off to change the filter. It made a huge difference only because the stock intake tube and resonator had a critter nest in it I discovered after removing them. Moral of the story, the results will vary greatly depending on how good the stock system is. Great video.
These videos are literally the best, because you are so in depth. Just like all engineers. -.-'
+Ball Sack I am cracking up at your name and image. just saying lmao
Haha, most people do. I hope you aren't one of the people who think of this as a real scrotum.
+Ball Sack no but it's still hilarious haha
It's been like this for a little over two years now. Google disabled this account like three times. I always appeal it and get it back.
I appreciate this no nonsense, scientific approach. Leaves little doubt.
The difference in times between the two air intakes is not due to the air being colder or hotter. It's purely down to the design and diameter of the intake as you can see it reduced acceleration time at low rpm but increases at high rpm. All air intakes will be different and give different results.
That's what I suspect, yes.
I agree, that would make sense why the higher RPM shows slight improvement.
Engineering Explained
are you doing any follow up vids to test/explain that?
Now calculate how cool the sound is on a Cold Air Intake. Priceless
I like that you drive something different and seem very knowledgeable and humble, most people in the car scene where I'm from all drive the same basic cars and are snobs who dont really know much about cars at all
Also if you get a cold air intake, you should probably get a tune as well to see better improvements across the board. Otherwise your results will vary by car. Could be worse across the board instead of better at the higher end.. ECU's also on stock settings take time to adjust to changes.
It's worth it for cool noises alone
I'm really glad I watched the SRI and this video before I got mine. I go relatively fast in my car, but only in the spots that I can. I drive into the city every day and I'm constantly stuck in traffic. So, thanks for the clarifications!
Excellent description. I often wondered how they really do but couldn't find any verifiable data. You just gave it to me. Thanks.
I've always used a drop in filter with stock air box and my turbo car have had great results on low and high end
At least stock actually sucks air from outside engine bay
What may be an interesting test in the future is between so-called cold air intakes of different lengths and diameters. Since this is part of the entire intake system from air inlet to combustion chamber, one has to wonder if you could find a bit of a sweet spot in the rpm range that you may utilize the most. Somewhat similar to what us old school guys used to do with different styles and configurations of spacers under a carburetor. In the past, while tuning a new combination, I could possibly traverse the 1/8th mile in drag racing (I usually raced a couple different local 1/8th mile tracks) over a tenth quicker with the proper spacer, which is significant in 1/8th mile drag racing..
I am from the lower range drivers camp.
I was about to install a CAI.
Mistake averted, Great Video Really.
Thanks for the testing and putting out these videos on intakes. I've learned plenty. Now I have some regrets, but eh, now I know.
Knowledge is [horse]power. Or something..
if you drive even semi-aggressively it wasnt a waste of money.
SMH @ people that mod cars or buy sports cars and never use it. "hey check out my veyron, im never going to take it over 30mph or 1500 rpms"
LeeVai666 Hey check out my stanced honda it has twin turbos and 400 hp but I rarely ever go over 30 mph because, low and slow.
+SofaKingLeet lol
SofaKingLeet, it's kinda of like adding turbo lag, but at least your loss of performance is rewarded later, lol.
great video man. I will try this experiment one day bc no two cars are the same
patz987 Yes indeed.
C'mon! The b series needs to be revved out to over 7k for it to pull like it is designed to!
Thanks for doing this test and confirming the manufactures claims with detailed testing!
Hi Engineering Explained now i watched all the videos about air intakes, cat back exhaust and all the test. I saw something, you don't leave the car to adapt. This is a Honda and honda's ECU tend to adapt around new changes. Normally this takes some time with mine this is around 60 to 120 miles of driving. The ECU makes new egnition timings, makes a whole new map for the car to run for. When you change "ass fast as you can" the intake or the exhaust, or the ignition or something the results will be the same because the car uses the old map and tries to adapt around the changes with a little bit more fuel and timing and so on. So in order to make the tests as correct as possible you need to change the intake then drive it at least 60 miles with low RPM's mixed with red lining and then you'll get the difference, you will be amazed how dramaticly the car changes in time of driving :)
You did a very good job that something that shows actual hard data on CAI and SRI. Thank you very much.
Now test a stock air intake system with a high performance air filter like K & N. I have a feeling most stock cars may benefit from using the stock air intake with a high performance air filter and an upgraded exhaust system.
Done that on several cars. True that it improves things, but the CAI looks and sounds good and can save you fuel costs.
Yeppers, the CAI looks good for sure...
@@charlieswearingen500 i' m thinking of putting the stock airbox with the pipercross free air flow filter back to its place........... according to the analysis.....it will work better than the CAI!!!!!!!
And so i did!!!!!it may sound less wilder than the CAI....but the torque in the low and mid rpms is significantly much better!!!!!👍👍👍👍👍👍
Majority of people dont care about the negligible loss in power at low RPM. The sound/symphony it creates is more than enough to compensate for the loss of low RPM power. It makes the car more enjoyable to drive, which is a reason alot of people get them. Thank you for the video though, it clarifies alot of misconceptions
Now, put individual throttle body's on it and do 3 runs without a filter attached, and 3 with the filter attached. Might be a bit much work for just a test... but I am curious to see the difference between the two, I'm also interested to see the difference between individual throttle bodies and traditional single throttle body set ups like your car has now.
I also think you need to consider your elevation. i have seen where these intakes are better at higher elevation where the air is thinner and it's harder for the vehicle to breathe. At lower elevations the air is already thicker and heavier so you won't see as much of an improvement. Air density does make a difference.
Every tuner/ricer who put a CAI on their compact commuter car is currently experiencing regret and disappointment after watching this...
nope, they will ignore this video and continue to put intakes on their car because NO ONE looks for power gain in the first 2-3k rpms.
LeeVai666 do you want me to call the doctor for that butthurt or are you going to be ok? you don't have to comment on here just to make yourself feel better about your mistake.
im happy with my car and all the mods ive completed no mistakes made here. once again no one looks for power gains in 1-3k rpms.
LeeVai666 no one looks for power gains from a CIA either, unless you're 15 years old in your first honda civic.
John Eydelson thank you, this is exactly why this video was a waste of time and thus proving this kid wasted his money on 2 intakes and a dozen dyno runs on an old ass integra that isnt worth the time modding to begin with.
And thus, from now forever onward, the date of November the 19th will be recognized world-wide as International Cold Air Intake day!
Apparently so, MCM beat me to it. :)
I’d say drag and track cars do benefit more than daily drivers. I wouldn’t put this in something like a camry. But I think trucks are an exception there if you use them for like hauling or since they’re mileage is so bad it can’t hurt to have one in there
I’ve been thinking of putting one on my Jeep Wrangler. Snorkel for true cold air.
to take full advantage of the CAI you need to have a chip/tuner on your car and you can even take it a step further by upgrading your fuel injectors and mass air sensor for larger gains
I can say that yes, a cold air intake does actually work. My 2011 hhr 2.4l is much quicker then it was with the stock air box.
Buddy my daily driver DOES spend a lot of its time between 3-6K RPM. Every stop light gets rekt. And I take off at 3K (thanks, clutch!). Bring on the CAI!
is everyone just going to disregard the 16 percent difference in humidity? if this was a more controlled environment you'd see better results from the cai.
BunnyBUNGALO bruh i only lost to you cause its humid outside 😂😂😂😂
lmao i would say the same tho
@@shalashaskaa8 LMAOOOOO
Yaay! MCM and EE agree! This is looking good.
Needs to do this test after a tune. That would be even more interesting to compare
I thought about installing one on my 2008 Volvo s40 but after seeing these results I'm not wasting my money!
Thanks for the informative video man. This is indeed good to know. I've been going about CAI for a while now.
You guys please, all forgetting the purpose of a CAI, it's most applicable in hot weather places as it helps to cool the air to the explosion chambers, the environment temperature best for CAI's best performance is above 65 ºF, below this, there's almost no purpose of use, below this just keep your stock air filter. The environment temperature is the most important factor for a CAI's best performance, that the hottest the best, it will suck the expanded hot air and compress it into the explosion chamber giving more air to the chamber in the moment of explosion and this way more power, helping in the same time the engine's cooling.
Makes sense. So since I live in florida, I can benefit from having one on my Integra :)
+Jrion You bet!!!
I mean at winter we rarely get below 10 or even 15 c, so it must be beneficial for me, I'll do my own testing when I do have it on!
Yes, but attention, do not use it in winter time, the best is when is above 65 ºF or 18 ºC, and the hotter the best! If you are able to isolate the CAI from the engine's heat then it will be awesome. I installed a brand new A/C way more powerful than the standard one, so i also installed a CAI, no problems when i need more power from the engine, and the temperatures going above 85 ºF, it just slides on asphalt.
How about you just dont get one? They are over rated, what do you get from one? 3 maybe 4 hp? Maaaybe a little more? First thing is get a better exhaust!!! Better tires!!! Then get a better intake but remember to get your ecu tuned for your new setup you are wasting your money otherwise!!
personally I think performance mods like this are all psychological. its just like when you go to the gym and you left one time and then the next day you swear on your grave you just gained 5 pounds of muscle. But realistically you didn't gain anything. I feel that's how a cold air intake is. Psychologically you think you're getting more power and or better fuel mileage but nothing has changed.. and another thing people are saying you need to get a tune after you put a cold air intake on. That's not true. All you realistically have to do is unplug the negative battery cable for let's say 10 seconds. And then you plug it back in and that will reset the computer and after you've driven your car or truck for so many miles the computer will learn that it can breathe easier. But that doesn't necessarily mean you're going to end take more air. You can only fit so much air in the combustion chamber. If you want more air to be crammed into the combustion chamber that's where a supercharger or turbo comes in. A cold air intake isn't going to force more air into the combustion chamber.
bep2001 kumar cold air is more dense... thats the whole point: more dense->more air
I wonder if the change in the power band would be different if the car had vtec? considering vtec causes the intake valves to open further, which draws in more air, I would naturally assume that under those circumstances an engine would benefit more from a cold air intake.
parts are designed for different applications. and torque levels in the rmp, to produce the desired performance.
Great test!
thank you do doing this video , i was on the fence about it
And so the age old question is answered.... lol love the scientific video format for this one... keep it up
16 percent higher air humidity is also not really good for the CAI - so your results for it are not so bad!
This guy is so nice i love him
How bout doing a test with a narrower intake tube, to see if low rpm power picks up, for a daily driver?
You're the best! Very informative.
Get it tune so you can actually see some gains. nice video
SHOW OFF!!! thats an awesome Play button!!! congratulations :)
I've just watched both of your Short Ram and CAI videos, and they are wonderfully informative. My only question is whether having a Turbocharged car would make any difference to those numbers. The air getting to the turbo and then being pushed harder into the engine would make the car accelerate faster, wouldn't it? Or is my understanding of how a turbo works a bit off... Thanks for the help!
Love these videos!
good CONTROLLED test! thanks!
Nice test, but you should dig onto the golden question: how to avoid the low-rpm power loss with a CAI?
you should never put a CAI on without a tune to adjust. That is what i learned and u get the most out of it by tuning it
Can you explain why less air restriction is worse in low RPM?
open cold air is also bad cuz the heat from the engine bay loses power and if you drive on dirt a lot, the open filter doesn't work as well as a enclosed box.
I ran a flex duct from the intake out through a hole cut into my front fender out around through an open window to inside the car to front of my air conditioner vent. I blast cold a/c into. I gained 300 horsepower instantly. So fast.
Do you think there would different results with a turbo-ed car? Nice job on this.
a DIY Car Guy Yeah, I'd imagine the compression and intercooler would play a much larger role in the intake temperature than the air filter. Depending on the intercooler size, the filter may not change the temp at all.
Engineering Explained thanks!
The power difference from cold air intakes and short ram is not so much in cold/warm air. It is mainly affected by diameter
and length of the intake itself, longer intake usualy benefits peak torque at higher rpm.
Nice break down !
It really is a car by car basis though. Some have poorly placed/designed intakes that restrict flow. Outside that, the filter you have makes a big difference as well. Some "top quality" and name brand filters can actually be more restricted than a stock filter largely due to the oil used.
In order to see modest gains is to have the basic IHE and Reflash the ECU... without it, there's little HP gained...
Cool info to know. Since my car is a daily driver I think I'll stick with my stock intake.
I think the numbers are skewed a bit as the AEM intake was mostly sucking ambient air out of the engine bay and not isolated for external air. You had better result do to more air being pushed into the grill along with the AEM.
First, I love your videos and how much I learn from them! Second, what if I couple a cold air intake with a cat-back exhaust with a larger diameter (than the stock pipes)? Would both of those working together help the vehicle breathe better to a point where I'd get better times all around?
the humidity was much higher when you did the CAI testing.
Well usually cold air intake systems are made for high RPM range area such as for track and drifting, etc not to mention when you do obtain a Cold air intake system it does give a HP gain Estimated horsepower gain of 5.24 HP at 5400 RPM
What actually increases the performance is not the device called 'cold air intake', but the COLDER AIR flows into the engine.
When you drive under 3k you already have lots of throttle left so lots of power left to use if needed. So unless your daily drive floored to 3k and then back off there will be no loss of actual power. Where you drive floored is wide open top and mid-range as you have to pass midrange to get there and so increase in air and power is worth the intake.
Now I want to see exhaust testings.
I think bigger displacement engines benefit from cold air intakes the most. A small displacement engine isn't really capable of using the extra air coming in especially down low. Thats why hondas 4 cylinders may get 4-10 hp gain depending on the set up & corvettes gain around 10-50 hp depending on set up (supercharger ect.).
Excell would be your friend when calculating these things, I assume thats what you use but thats just what I would do
The fact is that cold air intakes do benefit.. but you also have to have a performance exhaust and may also have to have your engine tuned. Also you should have the negative batt cable disconnected so the computer and sensors can reset them selves. The guy in this video probably did not have a performance exhaust as well.
a cold air intake is useless unless you have a high flow cat back exhaust system and at least half an hour tuning on a dyno. in other words theses tests are not proving much.
it's simple logic: you can't let more air in (through the intake) if the exhaust limits the air going out. also you need a tuning after these mods because you need to find the perfect fuel to air ratio if you are letting more air in.
and you need an airbox and should not put the filter exactly next to the hot engine ..
Precisely. I'm getting a CAI, a Revo stage 1 tune, and a Miltek catback exhaust on my GTI. The tune is what brings a CAI and an exhaust to work together to create power gains.
Yak I bought a CAI for my daily driver but I have a cat back exaust,, straight piped,, no resonator ,, would I gain some power then?
El Menol assuming you are able to get a good air/fuel ratio you might gain significantly. you might want to upgrade the fuel injectors too and get it tuned properly.
Yak okay, I also have headers,, any better results?
Very informative, thanks!
Best way to know in my opinion is to do several 0-60 runs( which I have done in my Honda Civic lx) the time is consistenly 8.5 to 9.5. Now I’m expecting the cold air intake to show an increase in overall 0-60 times.
and another great vid. Thank you!!
Now after watching this I took out my cold air intake thanks
Truth Seeker you can make it work, just have to extend it a bit, buy same size tubing, and a coupler and extend it to the corner or the engine bay by the tire, attach filter and rain sock. pull it away from the hot engine and all that hot air. If it's catching cold air down there you will get extra 20hp. Might take some work .... But worth it .. put real hood scoop or side vents..
well he drives like he has a knitting class to attend
Paul Perkins wait in this scenario is he a fan of knitting so he is driving fast or does he hate knitting and he is driving slow? and if he hates it why would he go?
Hmm thays a good question...
without a better exhaust system and on most vehicles a tuning it won't do anything
I run a Cold air intake on my 05 GT now yes it does make the car louder when its hot outside or just humit it doesn't make a difference it runs a little lower on RPMs and lower on sound but im running the stock throttle body still. But when its cool outside or low humidy man you can tell on the throttle reponse and how loud it is and fuel millage . So if you want a constant feel on power get a better throttle body or tune so weather isn't as much as a factor.
awesome video again man. these are by the best and most comprehensive tests that are out there.
You say bad for daily drivers but how about testing fuel efficiency at those low RPM ranges and see if maybe you get better mileage with stock or aftermarket?
It would be interesting to see the cumulative acceleration improvements comparing stock and modded (weight reduction, exhaust, intake) up to this point.
Yep, I have a table with all the data in it, perhaps I'll do something like this eventually. I allow access to all of my data (besides just Project Integra) on my Patreon page as a second tier reward. www.patreon.com/EngineeringExplained
Engineering Explained Great :) I subscribed to the second tier but I have not had the chance to look at the spreadsheets yet.
Ahh, indeed you have! Thanks! I uploaded all of the SRI/CAI data today.
it's your cam lobes that are giving you more power after 5k rpms, in other words "VTEC just kicked in yo!"
If this was explained to me about 5 years ago I would never bought my first CAI for 150.00+ brand new LOL @ myself. You live and learn:)
Legends says he's still waiting for the VTEC to kick in!
I don't think he's even had vtec lol
True, the engine is missing the famous solenoid. 😉
even without VTEC, not sure you are driving a B-series correctly mostly keeping it below 3k rpm as stated in the video
+Unanimous0001 When it kicks in, you will know... yo
+Unanimous0001 In all seriousness, it is a system developed by Honda of giving an engine two different camshaft profiles on either the intake camshaft or exhaust or both depending on engine load or rpm. Wikipedia or Google VTEC for more detailed explanation.