Super simple bike seat fit tip // Why I love this (type of) seatpost
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ส.ค. 2024
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Paint pen is a must for any seat adjustment. Mark first adjust later. It may sound ridiculous to many but a micro adjustment to the seat position can make a very big impact on ride comfort. I really hate the spline tooth style seat post clamp. the angle you want is always half a tooth you can never get.
Alternate method: Before loosening the bolt)s), make two tiny wedges of blue masking tape and place one on the post and the other on the clamp, points aligned. They will stay on while you adjust, then you can easily take them off.
Really excellent video, I had no idea how to adjust my seat post, I have the 2 bolt adjustment seat post and with your tips I finally dialled it in perfectly. A+
Very helpful, clear and straightforward. Thanks.
The first saddle is easier to adjust angle but has very little fore and aft adjustment
Yeah, those single bolt seat posts are a pain to adjust. Loosen that one bolt and everything moves including fore/aft position. When using single bolt posts: electrical tape mark/partial wrap one of the rail, to set fore/aft location; and for help with saddle angle, adjust only when saddle is on the bicycle, use a long straight edge across the top of the saddle to align the saddle angle with the handlebar stem, rotar saddle a small amount in the desired direction. Tighten bolt, test ride new position.
Taping the saddle rail can also be used in adjusting the fore/aft position. The tape will referance the old position.
OK thx
The real key to making adjustments with this type of seatpost is to always tighten the rear bolt to a specific torque, that way you can loosen it as much as needed make your adjustment to the front and then when you tighten the rear bolt back you will get the proper effect of the adjustment to the front. Otherwise, if you happen to tighten the rear bolt more or less it will change the amount of adjustment you made to the front.
I've run carbon seat post with a single bolt adjustment and didn't care for it at all. I started running a Thomson Masterpiece seat post and never looked back, best post I've ever run. My son however loves his carbon seat post.
the thomson is a fantastic post...
The Psychonaut Agreed, it's just so easy to micro-adjust
I had a type 2 seatpost by default on my bike and i could not set angle right as i needed it- t was either to high or low angle. I switched to FSA K-Force seatpost and im very happy about it. It is dial adjust, like the first one. I wont go for type 2 any more every.
How is good the suspension seatpost?
When the suspension seatpost springs, it increases minimally and the distance between the saddle and the pedal decreases.
Does it damage the cyclist knees?
Does it reduce waist injuries by absorbing road errors and shakings?
I have a similar aero post with the allen bolt. Its the best post i've had for micro adjustment.
Oh yeah!
Just make a chalk or mark on your tilt and then make your adjustment so you know where you were. PRO TIP!!!
the probem is that in this case position of bolts is wide, so there is little space to set a saddle forward or backword. as i can see +-1cm
Hi John, love the videos. I've seen saddles of two Tour de France winners of the past that are strongly tilted up, that of Jacques Anquetil (1960s) and Bernard Hinault (1980s). What's the thinking there, it seems so different to modern practise of nearly level or slightly tilted down seats. Love to hear your thoughts on this. Cheers.
It went together easily in less than an hour. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Make sure the front fork is forward or the pedals will hit the front tire. Tires are both a little soft so it needs air before I ride it. The rear wheel didn't come with a clamp regular bolts hold it on. The front had the clamp. No scratches out of box. Rims are a little off with a slight wobble. They could have spent more time with the spoke tool fixing the run out. So far out of the box I'm happy with it. I did replace the pedals with a nice aftermarket set. After riding it a bit my A$$ is a bit sore so I ordered another seat. Overall I'm nearly 60 and didn't ride a bike in 30 years. I like my new 29" Schwinn. It will be used for casual rides with my friend.
For the last two type, I use a black marker to tell myself how much is adjusted.
Seat posts with large offset usually have side screw adjustment which I find horrible to adjust correctly.
ritchey 1 bolt systems are very good
Worst is suspension seat post with those indexing groves.
My seatpost has thumb wheel for front adjustment too. I wish they had included some slots for regular wrench to that wheel, then I would not have to losen the rear one so much.. If my saddle had cutout at middle, I could adjust it with hex key from top, through of that cutout hole. I've used luggage scale to get it approximately right torque for it. It's marked to seat post as 9-10 Nm. I believe it mean's, that it should not be less than 9, but also not more than 10. I attack luggage scale to the allen key at 10 cm distance, to the handle, and then I pull with about 10 kg force, or little less, it's good enough.. I don't bother to convert units exactly to kgcm, or kilogram-decimeter, or smth. Sometime I can just tighten the rear bolt little more without need to loosen the front one and be still in range. Sometime I can just loosen it little, for micro adjustment. It seems to have enough long range.. before the torque gets too high or too low.
I had a Look 675, and a carbon one of those came as the standard post, branded Look... POS.... impossible to set it right... bought a Thompson, problem solved
What is this type of seatpost head called? It looks so much more easier to adjust
Thomson seatposts have a tilt scale on one side of the clip. What do you think of those? Last spring I removed my saddle to bring the saddle along on a trip (to use on the bike they provided). When I returned home, the scale made it very simple to reinstall my saddle on my bike at the original tilt. Before I removed it for the trip, I had taken iPhone photos of the setup.
And what are your thoughts about carbon vs aluminum for seatposts? Do you think carbon flexes enough to make the ride more comfortable?
+Paul Flory I do like the scale on the Thomson -- very helpful. And the two-bolt microadjust system is great.
I do think some carbon flexes enough. In tests I've seen, actually some well designed carbon posts flexed (measured as vibration dampening capabilities) more than some aluminum posts. In general zero set posts will move *less* than setback posts and carbon will outperform aluminum
Someone did a test recently (can’t remember who) on carbon seatposts for dampening and compliance and from memory the FSA K-Force SB25 came out on top, which is also a 2-bolt fore/aft clamp. Not cheap though!!
Road bike
Great Information! Keep them videos coming.
What does it mean if I always like to have my seat way lowe
Hi John, Although i am still struggling with my own bike fit, i think a bevel gauge (from the woodworkshop) could be a helpful tool for fine tuning for the last two types of seat posts you mention.
+Kees Verburg yes, good point! I have a digital inclinometer that I use which is exactly the same as the one I have at home in my wood shop to set the blade angle on my table saw. I know not everyone can justify the $80 for something they might use infrequently (but I use mine all the time) Thanks for watching!
Helpful. Thanks.
A little white out or silver sharpie will mark your position. Adjust from there.
Pro Vibe is the easiest to adjust I've found
I'm like too.
I run my seat 3/to 4 inches lower than what's expected, thx
Too low / much lower seat position is not a performance setting. It does not allow the rider to put out the power at optimum rate/duration.
How do you level the seat vs the floor?..anyone?
I personally can't stand any seatpost that does tilt and fore/aft adjustment with the same bolt. An absolute nightmare when you're making adjustments during a ride. And the knob is so clunky.
Plz move it aft and back, not up and down
Sorry ,I like my seat way lower than what's considered the norm, I know I like the fact,that I can easily get on and off the bike, I think the bike handles a lot better to, I just don't feel right having my seat much higher than my handle bar's, I don't race at the present time and I don't ride More than 25 miles at a time,I come from a bmx back ground, I Ride a large 27,5 MTB with 2,10 tire's, I was wondering what this means,I'd appreciate any theorys,facts,fictions,or opinions, my ear's are open,oh and I'm 5 10. 165 lbs,thx everyone,
You’re losing significant power by doing that, and breaking your knees in the process. If the bars are too low for you, get a higher rise handlebar and/or higher rise stem.
@@MaplePanda04 ok
@@MaplePanda04 tkx
The thumb wheel is a terrible design.
palmer3977 I do think they're better than the ones with the indexed carriages....but not by much
and those posts with the cups are terrible!!!!
Well, take a photo of the precise position and you don't need markers.
+Taavi Sepp taking a photo isn't much help when you're trying to get the tilt back *exactly* where it was or when you want to change it by a quarter of a degree
Bike Fit Adviser fair enough. Micro adjustments are harder to make though marking up your seat position on rails does help to reduce guesswork.