Recently retired teacher here. I'm just getting into indoor cycling at 61 years old...this will be my new hobby. This will be a compliment to my Concept 2 rowing. I'll be using Kinomap and Fulgaz. This was vey informative...what it showed me is that my saddle height was a tad too high and my legs were extending a tad too long. My new saddle height makes me legs feel like they're going through a smaller rotation circle which somehow feels not right... but the good thing is I'm able to get more power into each stroke. I definitely think there is an ideal saddle height for each person...but you have to be willing to fiddle with it...if that makes sense? BTW...you seemed to be hunched over the bars too much in your original riding position...but what do I know? Cheers from Canada!!!
I am a former pro rider and i can tell that your new position is so much better. Your upper body still moves a lot though (bouncing in the saddle), which is most likely due to your pedalling technique (pushing rather than spinning). Your shoulders move side to side, too, and this could be improved as well. Aim for a completely static yet relaxed upper body. Cheers!
Interestingly on my Elves I feel like my body is more stable out on the road - th-cam.com/video/9O0AzPacRjo/w-d-xo.html - I can certainly work on my peddling for sure, it's an interesting journey with steady improvements. Cheers for your comment. 👍🏽
@@JourdainColeman If you decide to work on your pedalling technique there's one simple exercise which you can do on a trainer and which can help you to improve greatly. These are single leg spins, done 5 mins with each leg at low resistance followed by 5 mins spinning with both legs as usual. You'll feel the difference immediately but for a long lasting result you'll have to make it a part of your warmup routine or do a separate session a couple of times per week.
can I ask you a question? I testrode a newer roadbike with the typical broad and flat top tube (an 2018 trek emonda) and found that my knees are prone to rub slightly an the tube. Seems I'm pedaling a bit "inward" with my knees. Should I avoid buying such a bike or could I change my knee position relative to the top tube by using differnet pedals for example? thanks in advance!
@@koyaanisrider6943 , without observing your pedalling technique, it's difficult to provide a definitive answer. However, in general, knees slightly turning inward is not a concern. On the other hand, hitting the upper tube is a significant issue. If this problem is caused by your pedalling technique, it's worthwhile to invest some time in correcting it. If it's not a fundamental issue, your body may adapt to the wider upper tube, and the problem may resolve itself quickly. However, I personally would be hesitant to purchase something that doesn't feel right from the start. I hope this helps. Cheers!
One of the best bike fit videos I’ve seen - well done mate. Some good tips and very clear explanation (and clips/graphics of what difference the changes made). Thanks for sharing it.
Thanks for this, very helpful. Didn't even realize saddle position (meaning forwards/backwards, not height) was adjustable. This adjustment made a huge improvement.
I’m enjoying the bike so far th-cam.com/users/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA My only real complaints are the brakes and the pedals. I feel like a bike designed for bigger people should have much larger pedals and more heavy duty brakes. I’ve only gotten two really good rides out of it, minimal downhill action, and the brakes feel like they’re already going out. A larger person has more momentum, so I think this wasn’t thought through very well. Also, I wear size 13-14 wide shoes. My feet cramp up on these pedals that are clearly made for smaller feet. Since I’m not a pro rider (and I don’t think many are who purchase this bike) I don’t think that the straps on the pedal are necessary at all. None of this takes away from the enjoyment I get from riding, however. I’ll just head to a bike shop to improve on a few things.
Riding my TREK Discovery for 20 years with pain was almost alleviated with adjustments all during a recent ride. Tiny adjustments and more power.......made these problems almost disappear. Seat forward, lower, tilt,...fantastic....
Awesome ! I didn’t know what I didn’t know. I have a professional bike fitting coming up in 3 weeks. A little late in the year but I’m excited to have a pro help me ride further with less discomfort .
Awesome to see you go through the process. I think many beginners/amateurs suffer from wanting to sit or feel like a pro, resulting in saddles that are too high, too far backwards and handlebars too far in front. Buying a gravelbike and using that for tarmac was an eye opener for me: first priority is comfort, then speed. When comfort is good, with training, speed (or more specifically: power) will follow.
@@JourdainColeman did I miss stem height? For comfort, I think Grant Peterson recommends bars same height as saddle. Loses aero advantage racers need but if you're not racing, it's nice to be comfortable, stem height affects neck, back, hip.
It's amazing to me that what seems like very small adjustments make so much difference in comfort. Thanks for posting the video. I'm going to get a pro bike fit!
Glad it was helpful! And I was also surprised at how much difference a small adjustment can make. 1cm on your saddle height can make all the difference
I guess I would have done the cleat, saddle and seatpost adjustments, 1st and did the bar width and reach last - you change your reach when you do saddle and seatpost adjustments, so your reach will be altered by going back and forth - also you can raise or lower your handlebars to change your fit as well.
went to see Romain today for a full bike fit after watching your video. What a worthwhile experience. We made a number of changes which are similar to some of those you made: saddle height reduction/angle correction/brought forward and also stem reduction from 100 to 70 and also angle reduction and hoods correction. Cleats brought backwards, and new shoes recommended to complete the foot activation. All changes felt great on the day, but will trial this on the road now to confirm the improvements work, at least for now. A great experience, and really pleased with the outcome. Been thinking of doing this for a while as I have recently started to harbour some thoughts of hating my bike (due to its discomfort) on longer rides, which could have turned me off the sport. Your video of the experience gave me the impetus to make the commitment to a fit, so thanks for that Jourdain! And Romain really delivered on the fit experience - exactly like he did in your fitting. I'm looking forward to enjoying my future and longer rides much more!
@@BenSnyder0701 hi Ben, definitely a considerable improvement. I now can do longer rides without any discomfort. 76km last weekend and felt fine at the end of the ride.
your “before and after” comparison at the end of the video was illuminating, the after position allowed you to have a smooth spin vs the before where you were stabbing the down stroke.
Exactly what I experienced as well. 2 bike fits and 2 different set ups. Non of them took away all my issues. 2 years later I am still feeling neck pain, knee pain and saddle pain, hands and feet that become numb. My way out at this moment is still trial and error and some TH-cam video's which are also often contradictory.
Very good presentation. I like Romain's mix of taking measurements & listening to feedback i.e. he isn't saying "These are the correct measurements...I've done my job"
Yes, you are right! It's a collaborative effort. The fit was also done at 160w which is my endurance power (3/5 hours). It really is a custom fit for the scenario. I'm super pleased with how it all turned out!
Your ear on the line drawn up through your head tube. Correct and rare. This line is the steering balance point and your ear is your balance point. This is why it's super important to find a bike with the correct top-tube length and head-tube angle combination. 71 touring bike can have a long top tube and a 75 degree track bike needs a shorter one. Custom steel fixes this: Albert Eisentraut 1994
Viewed this again - and again to understand the process. Very detailed information and very useful. Thanks Too high and you rock from side-to-side. Too low and your knees will incur injury.
Great vid. I keep fiddling with my position, the saddle and bars until I get it right. Major finding: a smaller than recommended frame is better than a larger frame
As always you produce a very detailed and interesting video. For someone as in depth as you into every subject i'm surprised your bike fit was so far off, you can clearly see the difference before and after with that happier face 😉(i'm not surprised if you were sitting on the front of your saddle, your Perineum must've been in agony on long rides 👀😬). Also very reasonable prices for a bike fit and looking forward to your "cleat position" video.
I know, I Know... I should have paid more attention to my fit 😂 - (I must have been blind). You can clearly see the difference in the before and after, I'm so much more relaxed. Romain was really good, I'd definitely recommend, A very friendly chap indeed! I hope you are all good, Scott?
12:20 , remove the lateral grooves in the saddle clamp plates internal faces with a linisher or dremel /coarse emery paper , to leave a slightly textured surface to allow "EXACT" positioning like a 2 bolt leaf spring style post . Bad design on Giant's part . Neil Stanbury once said that these seatposts can be a hindrance to getting saddle setup precise .
Fore aft adjustment is key. Once you get the seat height more or less where you want it, play with the seat setback before touching anything else. And then ride, see how the bike turns and brakes. Repeat.
Great summary. Nice technique he applied to remove hands from the bars to check position. I've always coached working on hands-free riding for control and as an indicator that bike fit might need to be adjusted (if you can't do it comfortably.)
It’s amazing how our body can adapt. I went from riding a 15kg MTB 175mm crank , running shoes with slicks, set up with tri bars (1.5years 5-6hrs/week) I then purchased my first road bike 7.5kg with road shoes, 170mm crank and slammed front stem. It was painful , my back hurt, I felt I couldn’t get the power down, or seat high enough…. Drove myself mad with various adjustments, hours of research and measurements (no bike fit because COVID) Eventually I adapted, actually dropped the seat height , increased cadence , worked on core strength and now I’m perfectly comfortable. I think if you get the ball park fitting right your ok. Roads aren’t flat and we’re constantly adjusting our seat position accordingly our body’s are pretty incredible at adapting.
We tackled assembling the bike as a family project. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxzg0clhbtRf2gGxPkVETFKJJKGqdsorQu The package is heavy, but I have 2 teen boys that were able to move it. The written instructions were great- we didn't need to watch the videos, but it was good knowing that the option was there if we needed it. After we were able to get it set up, the boys each rode 3 miles and I rode 8 and the bike stayed quiet. The display is easy to reset, and you can put it on whichever setting you are using (time, distance, calories, etc). I will say that my butt is a little sore from the seat, but that could be because I haven't rode in a while. While it is comfortable for me, it was not comfortable with the seat position for my friend (could not move the seat back far enough and he slightly looked like a kid riding a tricycle that he had outgrown). He also said that the seat hurt his manly parts. We are going to look for a different seat that will be compatible with this bike for him.I did purchase the Wahoo Cadence sensor and strapped it to the crank of one of the pedals. This will sync with my Apple Watch, iPhone and will import data in to my Health app. Wahoo does have other sensors available other than cadence. I can also keep either my phone or my iPad on the display and they both feel pretty secure.
i been riding without a bike fit for a year and half ever since i started, and it's notictable that how i get back pain neck pain wrist pain from longer rides, so i finally decided to do a bike fit also ,which im really looking forward to. thanks for your video ! great advice
Great to hear you are getting a fit! Hopefully this sorts your back and neck pain. It sounds like you have one booked a fit but Romain was really good and I'd defiantly recommend. He went that extra mile - instagram.com/getabikefit/
Thank you for walking us through the whole process in detail. I have a Giant Defy 1 and felt the same about too much of reach and uncomfortable upper back. Wish Giant had frame sized between Small and Medium . Long story short, I had to go through a similar bike fitting exercise which helped a lot.
Bike fit is actualy very simple and it doesn't cost much. I would have done that just by looking at your riding position and your flexibility score. All in all a good cyclist who puts around 10k kms evey year needs a slightly relaxed position so that there are no injuries and unnecessary fatigue. I can simply say endurance class bike geometry is the best to go unless you are pro. Love the Endurance bikes. Wohhh.
I agree with the endurance bikes if you are putting in some serious miles. Like you said, it helps prevent injury and actually allows you to ride more because of the comfort.
@@JourdainColeman if you can watch closely your before and after pic. The bike's has geometry has changed from normal type to endurance type. I would advice you to move back the hoods by around 15 mm which will provide you much more leverage and more neutral wrists position as well adding more comfort to neck. Best of luck.
I have a ankle break issue also. The leg with the break needs a little "breathing room" so I put a pedal axle extension on that side. Sounds like your knee is coming up because of your ankle problem. I also place my feet on the pedals more toward the heel.
This information was pretty useful.... I've been suffering same fate for the past 8 months... I ride a Fuji Roubaix 1.0...Now I know what to do to make my stay on the bike more comfortable... Thanks for actually sharing this... God bless
Great videoa nd hi all. got a gravel for almost two years now and kinda have feeling I fight with it still. Size is recommended for like 182-196 cm and I am 196cm/100 kg dude, with pack, a quite more. I have feeling I am both too short and too long for it. Too long because I can see the bit of hub in front of a bars (basic advice), then too long, because I feel a bit of neck pain and I feel my shoulders are bit in front. The fact I need to raise my head a tiny more does not help for sure, using trail helmet with the sun shield. Last year I tried wider and different type of bars Venturemax WCS 46 cm on top 56 cm on bottom instead original drops of 44cm, so raised my reach a bit more too. I do not use drops that much now, cuz it is impossible to hold a brake lever with one finger there as I am used to from MTB. I feel sometimes also some tingling in my hands after a ride, so maybe too much pressure or harsh carbon fork. Also, some rides I could do 100 km and my knees were fine, some others I felt a pain after like 20kms, but that might be due a non riding for some short time. Tried to have my knees above the chainring, but yeah just, and basic advice again. Funny thing fit wise was I was really happy on my girlfriend's gravel from Decathlon - RC500 in M (173-180 cm my lady is 176 cm) size, as enjoyed the upraised body position of a torso, of course bike was too small for my legs to extend well. So I kinda have a feeling my XL bike would be better for me with much shorter reach or opposite bit longer so my back could really get straight and lay on the bike. Sorry about the long rant, maybe someone will have some tips or share the similar experience. :)
I have a posture professional practice....I think bike fitters should start with correcting the posture (rounded back in particular) and then adjusting the bike to fit the better posture. Might eliminate a lot of trial and error.
Thanks for sharing this important video. Thanks to Romain allowing you to share your fitting. Do you have plans to use Romain's services to complete the assembly of the new frame? Considering the price of higher end bikes, a fitting should be part of the budget. The bike shop should be willing to swap a stem, handlebar, or seat to another at little or no cost increase. Filming ourselves from different angles to review posture and movement should allow us to improve reasonable comfort while getting maximum power per stroke. Cheers from the Pacific coast. 🍷
I am hoping to take my new frame to Romain to get a good fit as well. Like you said it makes sense to have it all done in one place. It will be interesting to see how a "race" bike is set up in comparison to my endurance bike. I do have integrated bars and stems from Elves to try which obviously has no adjustment (That's a whole different conversation) I think filming yourself at home on the turbo is the best thing you can do! From there you can see what it looks like. There is no other time we get to see ourselves like that. I hope you are keeping well and pushing the pedals still?
@@JourdainColeman Had no clue the "Giant" was your endurance bike. Hope you are more comfortable without dropping much $$. With the tools Romain has you should experience the best possible outcome with the Elves build. Even though I'm reasonably comfortable now I will pay closer attention to my riding posture and film myself. After watching, realized I could have saved saddle adjustments by first buying pedals as platform height is fixed. Then a saddle followed by handlebars. I chose saddle, handlebars, then pedals, the Scott came without pedals, and I slapped on the used ones. Bought the carbon fiber Shimano SPD-SL Ultegra +4mm pedals with a lower platform. integrated bars and stems from My combo flat handlebar doesn't allow for accessories. If the Elves bars are round, you'll find mounts. The stem cap mounts allow for 1 device. Road to the bike shop this past Saturday and bought a new Ultegra chain that I put on Sunday. The old chain it was almost a full link longer than the new one which I was told was 50% worn. Also picked up a 10-speed cassette to go from a 26-t to a 28-t. It's almost a minimum with the hills here. The flat black paint on the spokes has been getting more whitish pits with age. Removed the paint with 0000 steel wool and brought them to a shine with Mothers Mag & Aluminum polish. Now there's some bling with shinning stainless-steel spokes instead of flat black. Will be easier to keep clean. Didn't ride as much this past week as I usually do, 140-150 miles. Had home chores to do I'd put off since it was great riding weather. Are you getting much outdoor saddle time? Meant to get back to you sooner but I used my finger to keep a 2x4 from hitting the brick I was setting with the 2x4. It was throbbing but better now. You know you're having fun if your bleeding! Looking forward to more of your productions. Hope all is well there. Keep the rubber side down.
@@JourdainColeman I took note of you mentioning toe point as this was something I was experiencing. Did lower the seat 16mm then forward 6.5mm. The pointing is gone, the reach is good, the grip on the seat is good, the hands are getting numb sooner so may move the seat again.
Nice video, I appreciate the helpful tips! While I have minimal knowledge of bike fitting, I thought the ideal process would be to get the saddle height and fore/aft dialed in, prior to working the stem length and height.
Thanks for sharing your bike fit journey! I actually found your channel from your Saris trainer review but digging the rest of your content. So, I've watched a lot of bike fit videos and enjoy tweaking my fit (Neill Sanbury, Francis/James Bike Fit Tuesdays). Recently did an online computerized (MyVeloFit) one due to cost, but will save up for a proper in-person bike fit before the next season.
Glad to hear you now have a turbo trainer (and that my review was helpful). Hopefully you get good use out of it. Good to hear you have been trying to get a good deposition on your bike, it's not the easiest thing t figure out.
I'm getting used to my own "senior shrink" ~ I was a even 6ft tall (183cm) until 60yo ~ and at 66 I now measure 5'9" (175cm). As most of this seems "spinal", I'm trying to adjust on my own, with shorter stem length (headset/classic), and moving saddle [edit] forward. Your work with an expert gives me hope, for the "Goldilocks Theory"* I've gleaned from this video. 😊 * "too high > too low >> just right!" Very appreciated 😎
Nice vid. Pretty cool common sense stuff wrapped into an actual procedure for achieving the right fit. Unfortunately bike shops are probably the worst offenders when it comes to getting the right size bike. They'll sell you what they have in stock rather than what you really need. So many noobs drop out of cycling because the discomfort they experience originates from frames that are just too big. Most of the time you can get a perfect fit on a smaller frame as shown in the video but there's nothing to be done if the local bike shop put you on a frame that's too large. Everyone needs to see this vid before buying a new bike.
Very interesting video which explains a lot. Yesterday I was climbing up hill on my MTB and in one moment I simply decided to stop and tilt saddle nose down for about 0,5cm by the way I moved it forward for 1,5cm. After that I felt much comfortable on the bike I cannot describe it, I just felt totally different. That's the same bike I amd riding since 2019. as brand new.
Well said! It was interesting to try and feel the difference. That's why it's helpful to have someone else adjust the bike for you, that way you don't know what's changed.
I'm surprised you didn't make changes to your saddle drop by removing or adding spacers on the stem. This makes a big difference to your riding in terms of aero position and comfort. What's your current saddle drop? FYI, my drop is 7cm.
I set cleats right back first then fore aft and tilt then saddle height followed by stem height. I think stem or stack height is crucial for hip angle and Aero position if you race or group ride. Stem length I think is best left to the last adjustment the same with bar width even though they are important. That works for me anyhow.
Sorry to say this. But your final position is far from ideal. I am a bikefitter in Spain and I would say that you need a wider saddle and the saddle height is still wrong. In the final position you are still too far from the handlebars, not because the reach is incorrect, but because you are seated too far back on the saddle (usual compensation for insufficient saddle width). Get a 155mm saddle, my recomendation is specialized power or bontrager aelous. If you are willing to follow my advice, let me know if I was right :)
Good video, it's mindboggling how many variables there are and each time you alter one it affects the others. Did he check anything like your "ape index"? Also what crank lengths you are using? I have one road bike that is somehow set up perfect for me just by trial and error, I've another that is a winter bike but needs matched up with almost the same dimensions if possible. It has an extra 20mm on the ETT(550mm) despite a 51cm C-T so I've had to go from a layback post to inline, and I've also dropped 10mm from the stem to 70mm plus narrower bars are(both) in the post (40 compared to 42 original) which also have a 70mm reach compared to the original bars 75mm. I'm looking for a more relaxed "endurance" position, and yesterday I realised that to be gripping the hoods my arms are almost locked out. I moved the seat 10mm forward yesterday and that is a definite improvement along with putting my cleats all the way back (Shimano curse of a 46 shoe when I usually am 44). Most of my issues on fit come from the fact I'm 169cm yet my mid axle to saddle top measures 88cm, my reach is ridiculously short or my legs are ridiculously long. I ride with 170mm cranks but have 175mm on the MTB and no issues, sometimes wonder if 170mm is too short.... I used flat pedals to check my feet positioning and when on a decent long bit of road found my comfortable position then looked down, my RH heel is a bit further in..... it's a never ending process this! I knew from the start you were probably too far back on the saddle and/or the stem was way too long... I'm even wondering whether I should consider a womens fit bike as they are meant to be for longer legs/short torso rather than mens which are generally the opposite??
What whas interesting to me is that you reduced saddle height, reach, bar width... And still you looked lessed 'compressed' in your new fit. They did a nice job!
That is my Elves Falath pro 2022, I have lots of videos on this bike including a full build. Review here - th-cam.com/video/DfJD7wKGwEQ/w-d-xo.html Build Here - th-cam.com/video/rW7xT0UmSUc/w-d-xo.html
I have the same area of pain around shoulder on my Defy. Issue solved after a few cm /mm adjustment by a bike fitter. It definitely worth paying for. And thank you for the video.
I am a local pro CX racer with lower back pain. According to my fitter, who has a very reputable reputation in my state, my seat is likely too high(in reference to the handlebars). He hasn't actually done a fitting yet, but I figure he may be right. But I have it higher and the saddle all the way forwards because my butt feels like its always sliding forwards. Now my butt doesn't slide, and raising the stem 5m helped my hand pain as well as reach. But the back is my final hurdle.......
Check the right/left and for/aft adjustment of cleats, hook position (try non symmetrical adjustment) and handlebar lateral position. I get rid of back pain by rotating stem (when in the axle I felt like I was turning, when off the axle it is relaxing tensions).
thanks, great video. It continues to amaze me how we need a smaller frame in general. I am around your height (5'9" ?) and had between 54 and 56 frames when after having a bike fit, I am more around 52 (or 53) frame. I think it is better to have a longer stem than a shorter one. So now your stem is around 80mm!
Thanks for sharing! And I agree, I think in general people ride bikes that are too big. It's easier to make a small bike bigger than a big bike smaller (if that makes sense). with all the adjustments I could get away with a bar change (1cm shorter reach on the bars).
Good vid. Very similar outcome to my bike fit (lowered saddle, cleats back, narrower bars and 80mm stem). Makes you wonder why bike companies use a 110m stem and 42cm width bars as std
Perhaps my riding position is too extreme but I am 1.91 metres, have a 14.5cm slammed stem on as standards are way too short. Most standard frames are built with too larger headtube as well as I think they assume cyclists have zero flexibility and terrible core strength. I as a result can maintain an aero low position for 6-8 hours stress free, not riding with my head and shoulders way up high in the wind. I think the mistake is to buy a frame then get it fitted, always get measure up before and if off the peg buy a frame that's the closest to your needs.
before and after side by side videos tell the whole story . At the beginning just by watching the before position one could tell that something was wrong .... Great video
I'm curious how much of a difference you could make if you worked on your flexibility. I had a similar situation, and saw a fitter, and he suggested doing some core/stretching/etc work, and over time, I ended up with a blend of the old position and new one. Main thing for me, was core strength. I was functionally fine, but to ride in an aggressive position, you need a different core strength than "oh look I can do crunches". My hamstrings were also tight too, I knew this going in, you'd be surprised how much your body can do "wrong" and not know (as you noted). Great video, nice to have all of the information in one spot.
I think that having improved flexibility would help for sure... and that additional core strength! It will be interesting to see how the bike fit is on the new race bike I'm building compared to the endurance bike in this video. Like Romain said, it's a process not an event, I'll be sure to create more details as my position progresses. P.S I'm pleased you enjoyed the video.
i didnt make a professional bike fit yet, but what i can say is that i can ride for 4 hours and i dont have any problems at all. soo i guess everything is fine for me. and to talk about seat height: i think this is something you have to find out for yourself. if i go to my „optimal“ height, i get knee problems (on the backside), so my seat is just a tiny bit lower.
I had a Retul done recently and ended up with a new bike (so many upgrades on the old bike!!!) . I am suffering through getting the updated fit on my old bike... and trying to get the new bike fit properly. (My regular shop would not even look at the bike fit numbers.)
Time to get your tape measure out 👍🏼 I recently transfered the measurements from one bike to another and the bike feels great. Hopefully you got it sorted
It also depends on what type of riding you do and type of bike you use. I do a lot of long distance riding on a flat bar bike so my requirements are different.
You look noticeably more comfortable on the bike, probably the bike dynamic feels different too now but should be ok with a bike you are familiar with. However, you do look tight around your body. Something to work on before it’s too late like me, level 4 cartilage damage in my knees.
That was a very interesting video indeed. My first thought was that you looked very 'wrong' and uncomfortable, so relieved you now look much better. Also noticed you now have a better lung position, as your chest looked folded and restricted earlier on. I prefer original sit up and begs, as I find them more comfy, albeit a lot slower :). Modern sit ups I find have a longer reach than old ones, they look the part, but don't really feel it. Will now go and watch foot video, thanks again
Yeah, my position was improved massively, defiantly better all around for many reasons. To be honest, I have built new bikes since this video and I would probably say that the giant frame is probably to big for me and my body geometry. The new frames I have gone with have all been smaller and they feel much better. (Size 52 frames work for me, I'm 176cm tall) 👍🏽
Please Show Romain some Support as he did for me - instagram.com/getabikefit/
4:22 your cadence is good.
Recently retired teacher here. I'm just getting into indoor cycling at 61 years old...this will be my new hobby. This will be a compliment to my Concept 2 rowing. I'll be using Kinomap and Fulgaz. This was vey informative...what it showed me is that my saddle height was a tad too high and my legs were extending a tad too long. My new saddle height makes me legs feel like they're going through a smaller rotation circle which somehow feels not right... but the good thing is I'm able to get more power into each stroke. I definitely think there is an ideal saddle height for each person...but you have to be willing to fiddle with it...if that makes sense? BTW...you seemed to be hunched over the bars too much in your original riding position...but what do I know? Cheers from Canada!!!
12mm drop in saddle height is absolutely massive, not a small change. that kind of drop is a whole different ride position paradigm.
12mm so you said its massive.. What ?! 😅 95℅ of the people will not agree with you.. Be ready
@@green_building Certainly not my ex-wife.
I am a former pro rider and i can tell that your new position is so much better. Your upper body still moves a lot though (bouncing in the saddle), which is most likely due to your pedalling technique (pushing rather than spinning). Your shoulders move side to side, too, and this could be improved as well. Aim for a completely static yet relaxed upper body. Cheers!
Interestingly on my Elves I feel like my body is more stable out on the road - th-cam.com/video/9O0AzPacRjo/w-d-xo.html - I can certainly work on my peddling for sure, it's an interesting journey with steady improvements. Cheers for your comment. 👍🏽
@@JourdainColeman If you decide to work on your pedalling technique there's one simple exercise which you can do on a trainer and which can help you to improve greatly. These are single leg spins, done 5 mins with each leg at low resistance followed by 5 mins spinning with both legs as usual. You'll feel the difference immediately but for a long lasting result you'll have to make it a part of your warmup routine or do a separate session a couple of times per week.
can I ask you a question? I testrode a newer roadbike with the typical broad and flat top tube (an 2018 trek emonda) and found that my knees are prone to rub slightly an the tube. Seems I'm pedaling a bit "inward" with my knees. Should I avoid buying such a bike or could I change my knee position relative to the top tube by using differnet pedals for example? thanks in advance!
@@koyaanisrider6943 , without observing your pedalling technique, it's difficult to provide a definitive answer. However, in general, knees slightly turning inward is not a concern. On the other hand, hitting the upper tube is a significant issue. If this problem is caused by your pedalling technique, it's worthwhile to invest some time in correcting it. If it's not a fundamental issue, your body may adapt to the wider upper tube, and the problem may resolve itself quickly. However, I personally would be hesitant to purchase something that doesn't feel right from the start. I hope this helps. Cheers!
@@azteccat3027 thanks a lot, man!
One of the best bike fit videos I’ve seen - well done mate. Some good tips and very clear explanation (and clips/graphics of what difference the changes made). Thanks for sharing it.
Much appreciated! It took quite some time to create the video so all the feedback is music to my ears. I'm glad you found it useful!! 👍🏽
Thanks for this, very helpful. Didn't even realize saddle position (meaning forwards/backwards, not height) was adjustable. This adjustment made a huge improvement.
I’m enjoying the bike so far th-cam.com/users/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA My only real complaints are the brakes and the pedals. I feel like a bike designed for bigger people should have much larger pedals and more heavy duty brakes. I’ve only gotten two really good rides out of it, minimal downhill action, and the brakes feel like they’re already going out. A larger person has more momentum, so I think this wasn’t thought through very well. Also, I wear size 13-14 wide shoes. My feet cramp up on these pedals that are clearly made for smaller feet. Since I’m not a pro rider (and I don’t think many are who purchase this bike) I don’t think that the straps on the pedal are necessary at all. None of this takes away from the enjoyment I get from riding, however. I’ll just head to a bike shop to improve on a few things.
Riding my TREK Discovery for 20 years with pain was almost alleviated with adjustments all during a recent ride. Tiny adjustments and more power.......made these problems almost disappear. Seat forward, lower, tilt,...fantastic....
Super useful to see. The after shot looks so much more natural. I finally scheduled a bike fit myself in a couple weeks.
Thanks man! Glad you enjoyed the video. The new position feels much better. I hope all goes well with your fit in a few weeks
Suffering for so long
Awesome !
I didn’t know what I didn’t know.
I have a professional bike fitting coming up in 3 weeks. A little late in the year but I’m excited to have a pro help me ride further with less discomfort .
Awesome to see you go through the process.
I think many beginners/amateurs suffer from wanting to sit or feel like a pro, resulting in saddles that are too high, too far backwards and handlebars too far in front.
Buying a gravelbike and using that for tarmac was an eye opener for me: first priority is comfort, then speed. When comfort is good, with training, speed (or more specifically: power) will follow.
Totally agree! Good point about the gravel bike 👍🏼
@@JourdainColeman did I miss stem height? For comfort, I think Grant Peterson recommends bars same height as saddle. Loses aero advantage racers need but if you're not racing, it's nice to be comfortable, stem height affects neck, back, hip.
My saddle was leaning forward too much. A couple click back and my weight was more in the saddle. Very informative video.
It's amazing to me that what seems like very small adjustments make so much difference in comfort. Thanks for posting the video. I'm going to get a pro bike fit!
Glad it was helpful! And I was also surprised at how much difference a small adjustment can make. 1cm on your saddle height can make all the difference
You look so much more comfortable in the after shot. It even looks like power is easier to output
I guess I would have done the cleat, saddle and seatpost adjustments, 1st and did the bar width and reach last - you change your reach when you do saddle and seatpost adjustments, so your reach will be altered by going back and forth - also you can raise or lower your handlebars to change your fit as well.
went to see Romain today for a full bike fit after watching your video. What a worthwhile experience.
We made a number of changes which are similar to some of those you made: saddle height reduction/angle correction/brought forward and also stem reduction from 100 to 70 and also angle reduction and hoods correction. Cleats brought backwards, and new shoes recommended to complete the foot activation.
All changes felt great on the day, but will trial this on the road now to confirm the improvements work, at least for now.
A great experience, and really pleased with the outcome.
Been thinking of doing this for a while as I have recently started to harbour some thoughts of hating my bike (due to its discomfort) on longer rides, which could have turned me off the sport.
Your video of the experience gave me the impetus to make the commitment to a fit, so thanks for that Jourdain!
And Romain really delivered on the fit experience - exactly like he did in your fitting.
I'm looking forward to enjoying my future and longer rides much more!
a year later how have you found your fit
@@BenSnyder0701 hi Ben, definitely a considerable improvement. I now can do longer rides without any discomfort. 76km last weekend and felt fine at the end of the ride.
your “before and after” comparison at the end of the video was illuminating, the after position allowed you to have a smooth spin vs the before where you were stabbing the down stroke.
Yeah, the after position is so much better! 👌🏼
Last year I had 3 bike fits in 4 months ,all 3 were different settings , makes you wonder.
That's not good to hear. Did you find a good position in the end?
@@JourdainColeman yes my own trial and error.
Question of background theory, utilized equipments, age of the captain,...
@@JourdainColeman that's what she said
Exactly what I experienced as well. 2 bike fits and 2 different set ups. Non of them took away all my issues. 2 years later I am still feeling neck pain, knee pain and saddle pain, hands and feet that become numb. My way out at this moment is still trial and error and some TH-cam video's which are also often contradictory.
Very good presentation. I like Romain's mix of taking measurements & listening to feedback i.e. he isn't saying "These are the correct measurements...I've done my job"
Yes, you are right! It's a collaborative effort. The fit was also done at 160w which is my endurance power (3/5 hours). It really is a custom fit for the scenario. I'm super pleased with how it all turned out!
Your ear on the line drawn up through your head tube. Correct and rare. This line is the steering balance point and your ear is your balance point.
This is why it's super important to find a bike with the correct top-tube length and head-tube angle combination. 71 touring bike can have a long top tube and a 75 degree track bike needs a shorter one. Custom steel fixes this: Albert Eisentraut 1994
Viewed this again - and again to understand the process. Very detailed information and very useful. Thanks
Too high and you rock from side-to-side.
Too low and your knees will incur injury.
Definitely the best explanation I've seen. Sure makes me want to get fitted for my bike(s). I know I'm off on a lot of settings.
Great vid. I keep fiddling with my position, the saddle and bars until I get it right. Major finding: a smaller than recommended frame is better than a larger frame
Hopefully this video helps you improve your position!
I’m really liking your videos, your humor and attention to detail
9:56 bird style 10:08
As always you produce a very detailed and interesting video. For someone as in depth as you into every subject i'm surprised your bike fit was so far off, you can clearly see the difference before and after with that happier face 😉(i'm not surprised if you were sitting on the front of your saddle, your Perineum must've been in agony on long rides 👀😬). Also very reasonable prices for a bike fit and looking forward to your "cleat position" video.
I know, I Know... I should have paid more attention to my fit 😂 - (I must have been blind). You can clearly see the difference in the before and after, I'm so much more relaxed. Romain was really good, I'd definitely recommend, A very friendly chap indeed! I hope you are all good, Scott?
I would shorten the stem and handlebar reach 10 mm each, switch to a zero setback seatpost and raise the saddle 5mm and center the rails on the clamp.
Most important thing said, "Bike fit is a process, not an event".
12:20 , remove the lateral grooves in the saddle clamp plates internal faces with a linisher or dremel /coarse emery paper , to leave a slightly textured surface to allow "EXACT" positioning like a 2 bolt leaf spring style post . Bad design on Giant's part . Neil Stanbury once said that these seatposts can be a hindrance to getting saddle setup precise .
I don't know anything about bike fit, but your great editing and clear explanation made this video absolutely enjoyable, nice work!
I live in the Netherlands, but now I have to go all the way to Swindon for the perfect setup, thanks!
hahah... it's worth the journey 😂
Fore aft adjustment is key. Once you get the seat height more or less where you want it, play with the seat setback before touching anything else. And then ride, see how the bike turns and brakes. Repeat.
Great summary. Nice technique he applied to remove hands from the bars to check position. I've always coached working on hands-free riding for control and as an indicator that bike fit might need to be adjusted (if you can't do it comfortably.)
It’s amazing how our body can adapt. I went from riding a 15kg MTB 175mm crank , running shoes with slicks, set up with tri bars (1.5years 5-6hrs/week)
I then purchased my first road bike 7.5kg with road shoes, 170mm crank and slammed front stem.
It was painful , my back hurt, I felt I couldn’t get the power down, or seat high enough….
Drove myself mad with various adjustments, hours of research and measurements (no bike fit because COVID)
Eventually I adapted, actually dropped the seat height , increased cadence , worked on core strength and now I’m perfectly comfortable.
I think if you get the ball park fitting right your ok. Roads aren’t flat and we’re constantly adjusting our seat position accordingly our body’s are pretty incredible at adapting.
Saddle height is all
One of the better fit videos I've seen. I will now subscribe!
Glad you enjoyed the video and thanks for the sub!! 😁😁
We tackled assembling the bike as a family project. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxzg0clhbtRf2gGxPkVETFKJJKGqdsorQu The package is heavy, but I have 2 teen boys that were able to move it. The written instructions were great- we didn't need to watch the videos, but it was good knowing that the option was there if we needed it. After we were able to get it set up, the boys each rode 3 miles and I rode 8 and the bike stayed quiet. The display is easy to reset, and you can put it on whichever setting you are using (time, distance, calories, etc). I will say that my butt is a little sore from the seat, but that could be because I haven't rode in a while. While it is comfortable for me, it was not comfortable with the seat position for my friend (could not move the seat back far enough and he slightly looked like a kid riding a tricycle that he had outgrown). He also said that the seat hurt his manly parts. We are going to look for a different seat that will be compatible with this bike for him.I did purchase the Wahoo Cadence sensor and strapped it to the crank of one of the pedals. This will sync with my Apple Watch, iPhone and will import data in to my Health app. Wahoo does have other sensors available other than cadence. I can also keep either my phone or my iPad on the display and they both feel pretty secure.
i been riding without a bike fit for a year and half ever since i started, and it's notictable that how i get back pain neck pain wrist pain from longer rides, so i finally decided to do a bike fit also ,which im really looking forward to. thanks for your video ! great advice
Great to hear you are getting a fit! Hopefully this sorts your back and neck pain. It sounds like you have one booked a fit but Romain was really good and I'd defiantly recommend. He went that extra mile - instagram.com/getabikefit/
Another very informative video Jourdain. Its got me thinking about bike fit again. Thank you.
Thanks, my friend! I'm glad you enjoyed the video. I hope you are keeping well
Thank you for walking us through the whole process in detail. I have a Giant Defy 1 and felt the same about too much of reach and uncomfortable upper back. Wish Giant had frame sized between Small and Medium . Long story short, I had to go through a similar bike fitting exercise which helped a lot.
So good to see the before & after side by side. & Really kind of Romain to give you that tidy fade as well 😂
So beautiful Marina, thank you again for this beautiful episode ❤
Thank you..I have learned some new things which have made a difference for me
Bike fit is actualy very simple and it doesn't cost much. I would have done that just by looking at your riding position and your flexibility score. All in all a good cyclist who puts around 10k kms evey year needs a slightly relaxed position so that there are no injuries and unnecessary fatigue. I can simply say endurance class bike geometry is the best to go unless you are pro. Love the Endurance bikes. Wohhh.
I agree with the endurance bikes if you are putting in some serious miles. Like you said, it helps prevent injury and actually allows you to ride more because of the comfort.
@@JourdainColeman if you can watch closely your before and after pic. The bike's has geometry has changed from normal type to endurance type. I would advice you to move back the hoods by around 15 mm which will provide you much more leverage and more neutral wrists position as well adding more comfort to neck. Best of luck.
Wonderful information. I just bought a refurbished bike, very new to cycling. In a process of getting used to it.
I have a ankle break issue also. The leg with the break needs a little "breathing room" so I put a pedal axle extension on that side. Sounds like your knee is coming up because of your ankle problem. I also place my feet on the pedals more toward the heel.
Brilliant editing and overall great video and well documented bike fit process. Well done!
Thank you! I'm glad you enjoyed
3 years!!! Is a long time 😮. Very helpful video. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching! Glad you enjoyed 👌🏼 - I wish I had done it sooner
This information was pretty useful.... I've been suffering same fate for the past 8 months... I ride a Fuji Roubaix 1.0...Now I know what to do to make my stay on the bike more comfortable... Thanks for actually sharing this... God bless
Hey Bright! I'm glad the video was helpful for you. 👍🏽
Great videoa nd hi all. got a gravel for almost two years now and kinda have feeling I fight with it still. Size is recommended for like 182-196 cm and I am 196cm/100 kg dude, with pack, a quite more. I have feeling I am both too short and too long for it. Too long because I can see the bit of hub in front of a bars (basic advice), then too long, because I feel a bit of neck pain and I feel my shoulders are bit in front. The fact I need to raise my head a tiny more does not help for sure, using trail helmet with the sun shield.
Last year I tried wider and different type of bars Venturemax WCS 46 cm on top 56 cm on bottom instead original drops of 44cm, so raised my reach a bit more too. I do not use drops that much now, cuz it is impossible to hold a brake lever with one finger there as I am used to from MTB. I feel sometimes also some tingling in my hands after a ride, so maybe too much pressure or harsh carbon fork. Also, some rides I could do 100 km and my knees were fine, some others I felt a pain after like 20kms, but that might be due a non riding for some short time. Tried to have my knees above the chainring, but yeah just, and basic advice again.
Funny thing fit wise was I was really happy on my girlfriend's gravel from Decathlon - RC500 in M (173-180 cm my lady is 176 cm) size, as enjoyed the upraised body position of a torso, of course bike was too small for my legs to extend well. So I kinda have a feeling my XL bike would be better for me with much shorter reach or opposite bit longer so my back could really get straight and lay on the bike.
Sorry about the long rant, maybe someone will have some tips or share the similar experience. :)
Most practical and useful bike fit video I’ve found. Thank you.
Glad you found it helpful!! 👍🏼
Nice narration with practical advice
I have a posture professional practice....I think bike fitters should start with correcting the posture (rounded back in particular) and then adjusting the bike to fit the better posture. Might eliminate a lot of trial and error.
Best video ever, just wacthing you I realized we shared same problems.
Great video. Thanks for sharing your journey. I loved my bike fit, especially when it came to shoes and wedges. I look forward to that video. Ride on.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for sharing this important video. Thanks to Romain allowing you to share your fitting. Do you have plans to use Romain's services to complete the assembly of the new frame?
Considering the price of higher end bikes, a fitting should be part of the budget. The bike shop should be willing to swap a stem, handlebar, or seat to another at little or no cost increase.
Filming ourselves from different angles to review posture and movement should allow us to improve reasonable comfort while getting maximum power per stroke.
Cheers from the Pacific coast. 🍷
I am hoping to take my new frame to Romain to get a good fit as well. Like you said it makes sense to have it all done in one place. It will be interesting to see how a "race" bike is set up in comparison to my endurance bike. I do have integrated bars and stems from Elves to try which obviously has no adjustment (That's a whole different conversation)
I think filming yourself at home on the turbo is the best thing you can do! From there you can see what it looks like. There is no other time we get to see ourselves like that.
I hope you are keeping well and pushing the pedals still?
@@JourdainColeman Had no clue the "Giant" was your endurance bike. Hope you are more comfortable without dropping much $$.
With the tools Romain has you should experience the best possible outcome with the Elves build.
Even though I'm reasonably comfortable now I will pay closer attention to my riding posture and film myself.
After watching, realized I could have saved saddle adjustments by first buying pedals as platform height is fixed. Then a saddle followed by handlebars.
I chose saddle, handlebars, then pedals, the Scott came without pedals, and I slapped on the used ones.
Bought the carbon fiber Shimano SPD-SL Ultegra +4mm pedals with a lower platform.
integrated bars and stems from
My combo flat handlebar doesn't allow for accessories. If the Elves bars are round, you'll find mounts.
The stem cap mounts allow for 1 device.
Road to the bike shop this past Saturday and bought a new Ultegra chain that I put on Sunday. The old chain it was almost a full link longer than the new one which I was told was 50% worn. Also picked up a 10-speed cassette to go from a 26-t to a 28-t. It's almost a minimum with the hills here.
The flat black paint on the spokes has been getting more whitish pits with age. Removed the paint with 0000 steel wool and brought them to a shine with Mothers Mag & Aluminum polish. Now there's some bling with shinning stainless-steel spokes instead of flat black. Will be easier to keep clean.
Didn't ride as much this past week as I usually do, 140-150 miles. Had home chores to do I'd put off since it was great riding weather.
Are you getting much outdoor saddle time?
Meant to get back to you sooner but I used my finger to keep a 2x4 from hitting the brick I was setting with the 2x4. It was throbbing but better now. You know you're having fun if your bleeding!
Looking forward to more of your productions. Hope all is well there. Keep the rubber side down.
@@JourdainColeman I took note of you mentioning toe point as this was something I was experiencing. Did lower the seat 16mm then forward 6.5mm. The pointing is gone, the reach is good, the grip on the seat is good, the hands are getting numb sooner so may move the seat again.
Booked in with Romain in January - really hope it helps, riding my new Topstone is not a comfortable experience currently! Thanks for the video!
Awesome news, Romain will help you out for sure 👌🏼
Im buying my 1st gravel bike, and this gave me a lot of information to chose right bike size. Thanks
Glad I could help!
Thanks for sharing. 3 years ago your body shape may not be the same as of today, so bike fit is worth it
Very true!
Damn. Best bike fit video.
Curious to see on your next video as to how your right leg was corrected.
Yeah, me too! The video should be coming in a few weeks time!
Nice video, I appreciate the helpful tips! While I have minimal knowledge of bike fitting, I thought the ideal process would be to get the saddle height and fore/aft dialed in, prior to working the stem length and height.
Thanks for sharing your bike fit journey! I actually found your channel from your Saris trainer review but digging the rest of your content.
So, I've watched a lot of bike fit videos and enjoy tweaking my fit (Neill Sanbury, Francis/James Bike Fit Tuesdays). Recently did an online computerized (MyVeloFit) one due to cost, but will save up for a proper in-person bike fit before the next season.
Glad to hear you now have a turbo trainer (and that my review was helpful). Hopefully you get good use out of it.
Good to hear you have been trying to get a good deposition on your bike, it's not the easiest thing t figure out.
That was a great video! The position change looked like the difference between enjoying the ride and bonking
Glad you enjoyed it!
Brilliant video mate! Love how in depth you went. How is your neck now? I’ve had a bike fit but still suffer with neck pain after 40 miles
I'm getting used to my own "senior shrink" ~ I was a even 6ft tall (183cm) until 60yo ~ and at 66 I now measure 5'9" (175cm).
As most of this seems "spinal", I'm trying to adjust on my own, with shorter stem length (headset/classic), and moving saddle [edit] forward.
Your work with an expert gives me hope, for the "Goldilocks Theory"* I've gleaned from this video. 😊
* "too high > too low >> just right!"
Very appreciated 😎
Glad to hear that the video helped you! Also great to hear that you are pumping out miles!!
Nice vid. Pretty cool common sense stuff wrapped into an actual procedure for achieving the right fit. Unfortunately bike shops are probably the worst offenders when it comes to getting the right size bike. They'll sell you what they have in stock rather than what you really need. So many noobs drop out of cycling because the discomfort they experience originates from frames that are just too big. Most of the time you can get a perfect fit on a smaller frame as shown in the video but there's nothing to be done if the local bike shop put you on a frame that's too large. Everyone needs to see this vid before buying a new bike.
Great vid mate, been thinking about changing my stem, going to look into a fitting now, cheers for putting this out there.
Glad I could help
Very interesting video which explains a lot. Yesterday I was climbing up hill on my MTB and in one moment I simply decided to stop and tilt saddle nose down for about 0,5cm by the way I moved it forward for 1,5cm. After that I felt much comfortable on the bike I cannot describe it, I just felt totally different. That's the same bike I amd riding since 2019. as brand new.
I had a similar experience .
This is a great video to explain bike fit. I love the proprioception part the most. Those are tools anyone can use for any bike.
Well said! It was interesting to try and feel the difference. That's why it's helpful to have someone else adjust the bike for you, that way you don't know what's changed.
I'm surprised you didn't make changes to your saddle drop by removing or adding spacers on the stem. This makes a big difference to your riding in terms of aero position and comfort. What's your current saddle drop? FYI, my drop is 7cm.
I set cleats right back first then fore aft and tilt then saddle height followed by stem height. I think stem or stack height is crucial for hip angle and Aero position if you race or group ride. Stem length I think is best left to the last adjustment the same with bar width even though they are important. That works for me anyhow.
In my experience the setback is so important. Most people sit way to far back.
Sorry to say this. But your final position is far from ideal. I am a bikefitter in Spain and I would say that you need a wider saddle and the saddle height is still wrong. In the final position you are still too far from the handlebars, not because the reach is incorrect, but because you are seated too far back on the saddle (usual compensation for insufficient saddle width). Get a 155mm saddle, my recomendation is specialized power or bontrager aelous. If you are willing to follow my advice, let me know if I was right :)
Your hip is blocked because the way you seat and I bet you will have back and hip pain in the future
can you provide me a bike fit thru skype?
Good video, it's mindboggling how many variables there are and each time you alter one it affects the others. Did he check anything like your "ape index"? Also what crank lengths you are using? I have one road bike that is somehow set up perfect for me just by trial and error, I've another that is a winter bike but needs matched up with almost the same dimensions if possible. It has an extra 20mm on the ETT(550mm) despite a 51cm C-T so I've had to go from a layback post to inline, and I've also dropped 10mm from the stem to 70mm plus narrower bars are(both) in the post (40 compared to 42 original) which also have a 70mm reach compared to the original bars 75mm. I'm looking for a more relaxed "endurance" position, and yesterday I realised that to be gripping the hoods my arms are almost locked out. I moved the seat 10mm forward yesterday and that is a definite improvement along with putting my cleats all the way back (Shimano curse of a 46 shoe when I usually am 44). Most of my issues on fit come from the fact I'm 169cm yet my mid axle to saddle top measures 88cm, my reach is ridiculously short or my legs are ridiculously long. I ride with 170mm cranks but have 175mm on the MTB and no issues, sometimes wonder if 170mm is too short.... I used flat pedals to check my feet positioning and when on a decent long bit of road found my comfortable position then looked down, my RH heel is a bit further in..... it's a never ending process this! I knew from the start you were probably too far back on the saddle and/or the stem was way too long... I'm even wondering whether I should consider a womens fit bike as they are meant to be for longer legs/short torso rather than mens which are generally the opposite??
Great video. Super informative. One question though...you mentioned you shortened your reach by about 2 cm. Did you change to a shorter stem?
What whas interesting to me is that you reduced saddle height, reach, bar width... And still you looked lessed 'compressed' in your new fit. They did a nice job!
Great video Jourdain. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
I've watched many bike fit videos - this is the best!
Wow, thanks! Glad you enjoyed the video
Jordan any chance i could see a close up of that beautiful paint job you have on the wall over your right shoulder, i love the paint scheme
That is my Elves Falath pro 2022, I have lots of videos on this bike including a full build.
Review here - th-cam.com/video/DfJD7wKGwEQ/w-d-xo.html
Build Here - th-cam.com/video/rW7xT0UmSUc/w-d-xo.html
Beautifully concise yet meaningful. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
I am rolling at the editing on this
Such a difference bid you feel better on the bike
I have the same area of pain around shoulder on my Defy. Issue solved after a few cm /mm adjustment by a bike fitter. It definitely worth paying for. And thank you for the video.
Glad you got it sorted 👌🏼
I am a local pro CX racer with lower back pain. According to my fitter, who has a very reputable reputation in my state, my seat is likely too high(in reference to the handlebars). He hasn't actually done a fitting yet, but I figure he may be right. But I have it higher and the saddle all the way forwards because my butt feels like its always sliding forwards. Now my butt doesn't slide, and raising the stem 5m helped my hand pain as well as reach. But the back is my final hurdle.......
Check the right/left and for/aft adjustment of cleats, hook position (try non symmetrical adjustment) and handlebar lateral position. I get rid of back pain by rotating stem (when in the axle I felt like I was turning, when off the axle it is relaxing tensions).
Really insightful video, just got my Giant Defy 1 (2022 model) in Medium. How tall are you (may have missed if you mentioned it).
After looks so much better. Simple adjustments, but a result like day and night.
thanks, great video. It continues to amaze me how we need a smaller frame in general. I am around your height (5'9" ?) and had between 54 and 56 frames when after having a bike fit, I am more around 52 (or 53) frame. I think it is better to have a longer stem than a shorter one. So now your stem is around 80mm!
Thanks for sharing! And I agree, I think in general people ride bikes that are too big. It's easier to make a small bike bigger than a big bike smaller (if that makes sense). with all the adjustments I could get away with a bar change (1cm shorter reach on the bars).
Good vid. Very similar outcome to my bike fit (lowered saddle, cleats back, narrower bars and 80mm stem). Makes you wonder why bike companies use a 110m stem and 42cm width bars as std
Exactly that! It seems stock bikes form manufacturers are way too big by default.
Cost gain
Perhaps my riding position is too extreme but I am 1.91 metres, have a 14.5cm slammed stem on as standards are way too short. Most standard frames are built with too larger headtube as well as I think they assume cyclists have zero flexibility and terrible core strength. I as a result can maintain an aero low position for 6-8 hours stress free, not riding with my head and shoulders way up high in the wind.
I think the mistake is to buy a frame then get it fitted, always get measure up before and if off the peg buy a frame that's the closest to your needs.
before and after side by side videos tell the whole story . At the beginning just by watching the before position one could tell that something was wrong .... Great video
I reckon it is still wrong.
I learned that I should get a bike fit
I'm curious how much of a difference you could make if you worked on your flexibility. I had a similar situation, and saw a fitter, and he suggested doing some core/stretching/etc work, and over time, I ended up with a blend of the old position and new one. Main thing for me, was core strength. I was functionally fine, but to ride in an aggressive position, you need a different core strength than "oh look I can do crunches". My hamstrings were also tight too, I knew this going in, you'd be surprised how much your body can do "wrong" and not know (as you noted). Great video, nice to have all of the information in one spot.
I think that having improved flexibility would help for sure... and that additional core strength! It will be interesting to see how the bike fit is on the new race bike I'm building compared to the endurance bike in this video. Like Romain said, it's a process not an event, I'll be sure to create more details as my position progresses. P.S I'm pleased you enjoyed the video.
Great video lad, well done! ✌️
Glad you enjoyed
i didnt make a professional bike fit yet, but what i can say is that i can ride for 4 hours and i dont have any problems at all. soo i guess everything is fine for me.
and to talk about seat height: i think this is something you have to find out for yourself. if i go to my „optimal“ height, i get knee problems (on the backside), so my seat is just a tiny bit lower.
Really good video to understand the process.
I had a Retul done recently and ended up with a new bike (so many upgrades on the old bike!!!) . I am suffering through getting the updated fit on my old bike... and trying to get the new bike fit properly. (My regular shop would not even look at the bike fit numbers.)
Time to get your tape measure out 👍🏼 I recently transfered the measurements from one bike to another and the bike feels great. Hopefully you got it sorted
Great video - very informative with plenty of useful tips!
It also depends on what type of riding you do and type of bike you use.
I do a lot of long distance riding on a flat bar bike so my requirements are different.
You look noticeably more comfortable on the bike, probably the bike dynamic feels different too now but should be ok with a bike you are familiar with.
However, you do look tight around your body. Something to work on before it’s too late like me, level 4 cartilage damage in my knees.
That was a very interesting video indeed. My first thought was that you looked very 'wrong' and uncomfortable, so relieved you now look much better. Also noticed you now have a better lung position, as your chest looked folded and restricted earlier on. I prefer original sit up and begs, as I find them more comfy, albeit a lot slower :). Modern sit ups I find have a longer reach than old ones, they look the part, but don't really feel it. Will now go and watch foot video, thanks again
Yeah, my position was improved massively, defiantly better all around for many reasons. To be honest, I have built new bikes since this video and I would probably say that the giant frame is probably to big for me and my body geometry. The new frames I have gone with have all been smaller and they feel much better. (Size 52 frames work for me, I'm 176cm tall) 👍🏽
The best of all the best explanation
Interesting,
I need to adjust few things now .
There is so much mechanics involved in biking 🚴♀️, physics, + customs made bikes 🚴 .
Yes, exactly
Great bike fit video mate! Thanks
Glad you found it helpful 👍🏽
The bike engineer was so detail.. i can see it