After swearing never to have another van after the disaster that was my last one, this build/budget has sparked an interest and I thank you for that ( for now😅)
The most challenging part for me is the electric. I'd get so frustrated I'd need a drink. Your detailed explanation has saved me from alcoholism. With the savings I can now install the system as you painstakingly described, and have enough left over to buy you a beer 😊 Cheers 🍻
After reading some of the comments will still have the guy I know who does electric systems in boats to look it all over. I'm also adding in solar and he'll be better educated to combine the two systems while ensuring starter battery is always fully charged and 'cabin' battery charges only when starter battery completely charged. This is definitely the hardest part of my entire build.
Great to see your build progress - I could watch you work all day! Very relaxing and informative. You were right first time on the M8 screws (although anyone who works with wood will call it a bolt) - technically a bolt has part of the shaft unthreaded ... They are sometimes called machine screws to separate them from wood screws or self tapping screws. Useful explanation of different requirements to separate the van battery from the leisure battery (split charge vs dc-dc - lithium batteries are affected more by too high charging voltage than lead acid (which AGM is a special type of). Looking forward to seeing more of the build and seeing you enjoying the odd weekend when it doesn't rain!
Although this is an excellent build series, for those that find electrics a pita, there is a guy who runs all his aux battery needs by a jackery (or similar) that charges on solar or via 12v socket whilst driving. His fridge was running via a 12v cigarette lighter and was more akin to coolbox. He was featured on a van life channel last year, ( I forget the names) travelling in Canada in a ford econoline that was home converted. It even ran his diesel heater in the arctic circle. That said, Shaun this is epic viewing, better than anything on tv 👌🏻
Loving the van build, this is a great way way to get out for you first season on a budget then save up and add solar or a fridge and any extras you want.
Amazing series, so helpful, im about to do my 2016 vivaro and im going to pretty much follow your build exactly. Im gonna cut cupboards in the unit though with shelving inside and make the worktop permanent so can mount stove to it. So glad you put this series together!!
Iv literally just brought a Renault traffic after many years of wanting to convert a van to a camper this video is perfect for me 👌🏽looking forward to the nxt episode 🛌
Will say you owe a lot to Darren (think that’s his name) as that’s a super clean van he’s found you! Makes it super easy when the vans been looked after.
Great video series something you need to do is get to your local timber yard. You'll find timber so much cheaper that BnQ! Appreciate its not as convenient but youll save loads of money keep up the good work
Split-charge relays and Lithium batteries should not be used together because Lithium batteries have very low internal resistance and pull too much current from the alternator which is not designed to charge Lithium batteries. What is going to happen is that your alternator will be overheating, especially when used in low revs, and eventually fail prematurely. Also, LiFePo4 batteries need 3 stage charging with 14.2-14.6V on the bulk and absorption stage and 13.6V at the Float stage to fully charge and most alternators don't do that. For a budget build, an alternative and easier solution is to get a medium-sized Power station (something between €300-600, like Fossibot F800 @ €289, or Bluetti AC70 @ €550) and a cheap Pure Sine Wave inverter to use it only for charging the Power Station while driving.
Mercedes Vito MK1 W638 for the win 👍👍 Engine Will Do a Million Miles. Ive just replaced my intercooler, Radiator, Waterpump, It lasted almost 25 years every part is over engineered. Om611 Engine is Double Chain Driven Cast Iron Block with Getrag gearbox Basically Bullet Proof.
Yea they’re great engines. What’s the vans body work like? They’re prone to rust aren’t they? I’d hate to build a van then have to take everything back out because it needs welding
@@LoveSundays That's Where I got my Channel Name From 😬😬 I was lucky on my Van, it was a 1 owner from New very clean for it's age, it was ordered in Belgium as a UK spec Van and had the option for a sunroof, ive got all the original documents from purchase plus full electric pack, I done some research and it belonged to a family that is the Earl of Oxford. it was theres before I brought at Auction. It's the only one I've seen with a sunroof, that's what made me buy it, I managed to get I for £650
Hey Shaun sorry I couldn't watch on Sunday as I was shopping with my two granddaughters in Penzance. My eldest was 16 on Friday so I took them both out for a treat. Back home now in the midlands oh shit sorry buddy I love these vlogs 🤓🤓🤓😀
For this build, I would think a small decent lock box for all your expensive equipment would be a winner ?? I shudder each time I see you go out for a beer at the pub, with all your exy gear in the van .. just a thought 💭 😊 love the build !!! Very inspiring
Another account just showed how they got broken into in Italy and had all their money and cards in a lockbox and that got smashed open too in the middle of the day whilst they were at the beach. Maybe stealth drawers etc are a much better idea? And a ring doorbell inside the van connected to your phone so you can head over and kick some ass (whilst wearing a go pro on your head for awesome content 😂)
You might want to uprate your fuse at the starter battery end of your wiring. The rating needs to be matched to the output rating of your alternator, whilst keeping it below the rating of your wiring. The victron will manage down the amperage from your alternator so you want that particular fuse to protect the wiring whilst not unnecessarily blowing when the alternator current is high, eg. If your starter battery is a bit low on charge, the alternator will ramp up its feed to bring it back up.
Mechanic, Carpenter, Electrician and we will probably find out your a Sous chef. I am thoroughly impressed by your skills and talent and wondering why you don't start your own mini camper company. Here in the US VW will not sell T7 California camper and I read comments all the time how peope would love to buy a mini camper. Just a thought.
Thanks mate really enjoying this as it's the same van I'm going to get . And it's just going to be used for fishing trips . So Thanks again, look forward to the next one . Fully connected to your channel. 👌
Fab video again, hopefully you did but when drilling a blind hole.i would always investigate what's underneath and then when finished protect the bare metal. With 18mm ply could you have piloted and screwed directly into the end grain? Keep up the great work!
Those WAGO connections look like the scotch lock of there day . And scotch locks were awful in the 80s . If they got damp you had nothing but problems. Good stuff Shaun 😊
Absolutely loving the channel. Just out of interest when you screw something into the floor on a van. Whats the process?. Like what’s the max length of screw you can use before it pokes out the bottom of the van. 😂🤦♂️🤷♂️ Like are vans designed with a floor layer knowing units are going to be screwed down? I did have a T5 camper for 8 years. But that was already converted. I now have a crafter camper. Again already converted. But still like to gain knowledge as might build my own one day. 🙏 But just would have liked to have seen you screw the unit to the floor.
Just heard you say you 18:59 are installing a lithium battery, your vsr is not going to be much good with lithium unfortunately. Ig nor that, I've just watched the rest 😂 But a vsr will only charge and agm to a certain percentage not fully I had to rely on solar to top the agm up, since replaced the vsr with dc-dc. Keep up the good work 👍
Loving your conversion. I've just bought a vivaro crew cab and about to start my very first conversion. The information on the products you have used is really useful so thank you for that. I am wanting a fridge and microwave in my van so I have decided on a power station and solar, do you have any info on the power station you have and why you picked that one please? Thank you for sharing your experience 🧡
Great video as I said on another of yours, but just wondered if it’s me being a little thick here? 16mins in you pull 2 wires through below the fuse box to connect for the lights but yet you switched them on by the switch panel on the end how are the two connected? I would have thought the lights should go into the switch on the end and not the fuse box as I can’t get me head around how they switch on 😊
Fantastic video as always. I’m currently working on the electrics for my van, which wires were you using from the fuse box to the switch board? And from the battery to the bus bars. Would be really nice to have a video from you explaining more about your electric set up and wire sizing, potentially a future video?? Great job so far on the Budget friendly build!!
To be honest I would’ve used one but the cheaper smaller ones wouldn’t be enough for this van and to keep the cost down I installed the lithium battery. I might do another build after this one which won’t be on a budget and just go nuts 😂
I have owned several small US brand vans and have never seen a battery under the drivers feet. I am not sure how I feel about it. You made it work, though!
It's actually under the passenger footwell, and helps with auxiliary wiring as there is no bulkhead ( firewall) to go through. In my Mercedes v class, the battery is under the passenger seat......... it's a pita 😂
This build is looking very cool, and inspiring me to do this!. Your experience with these builds is really showing now, some nice neat work. My only concern is the location of the cable through the floor into the battery compartment under front seat. When the cover goes down, will it push it to a sharp 90° angle and shafe on the metal? The conduit may not protect it after a while. Just a thought....
You can charge LifePo4 via a relay - but you need a battery with a decent BMS - that’s one that can be programmed to shut down at around 14 to 14.2v - you’ll actually get better charging through a relay as DC2DC are really just current limiters (and quite inefficient too) so you may have a 150amp alternator limited to 30amps! You need to be aware that lithium will work an alternator hard… but with those cable lengths you’ll be fine as the resistance will trick the alternator into a lower current. The other danger is that your passing a large current through a relay which will lead to premature death! As most relays aren’t that heavy duty (a lead acid with there taper means the current rapidly drops off) you should also use a dumb relay not VSR as the floating voltage is higher. so you can use a lithium through a relay - but there’s so much misinformation out there and also those that sell DC2DC’s and other kit have been actively pushing and lobbying for their kit to be used
Wow... So much wrong info there and even a conspiracy theory thrown in for good measure. Hard recommend anyone who reads your comment seek a *good* autoelectrician who understands smart charging, DC-DC converters, battery charging profiles, etc. to avoid their own premature death in a van fire.
@@M0UAW_IO83 which bit Mr anonymous? We’ve actually got the technique warranted and insurable! Yes vested interest groups are lobbying - I’ve been in the meetings with insurance companies!
@@M0UAW_IO83 Which bit is wrong? I should have added that it doesn’t apply if using a smart alternator (but that’s a performance rather than safety issue?) Can you explain how it’s dangerous? Because nobody has ever been able to do so in years! What is the danger? Yes… I’ve been in meetings with insurance companies and lobbying groups! And I’ve also had the technique explained to insurance companies so it can be installed and found battery suppliers that will warrant the setup? So again - explain the danger?
@@ChristianMilesOnLine Plenty was wrong but you've changed your tune on your original statement to say that it doesn't apply to smart alternators so that's fixed some of it. Dangers: Relying on wiring to limit charge current is dangerous, the wiring will heat up, possibly to temperatures that could cause the insulation to soften, deform or fail (all fire hazards because it can eventually lead to a short circuit) and maybe even burn. To negate another potential agument I can foresee you using, the ratings for wire are always given 'in free air' so enclosed wiring must be derated to prevent it overheating, see above for why that's a bad thing. Batteries with different chemistries have different charge profiles, a vehicle charging system that's designed for flooded or sealed lead acids is not going to work well for a LiFePo4 or other chemistry, potentially with disastrous results (fire, smoke, destroyed battery). Wrong: DC-DC converters are used to boost the vehicle charge system voltage to a constant voltage high which is high enough to charge the battery to capacity/termination voltage, thus they can actually make battery charging *more* efficient than just the standard alternator alone DC-DC converter chargers are current limited because the components used have current ratings, buy cheap crap, get lower current parts, need higher charge current, buy a better one. Also, current limiting is often part of a charge profile (even for lead acids) which is designed to maximise battery life. Spec the charger to suit the battery type/capacity and vehicle charge system, if you do it right you'll get far better charging than your bodge it up connect it with a relay approach, plus it'll be safer. DC-DC chargers can be 95% efficient, the better the quality, the more efficient, spend a bit of cash, get better results and longer battery life, see above. All the manufacturer is saying is their batteries will last the warranty period despite you abusing them, they'll last far longer if you treat them properly which is definitely a good thing when you're dealing with expensive stuff like LiFePo4 batteries.
@@M0UAW_IO83 I didn’t really want to mention smart alternators as I don’t believe he has one and they wouldn’t work with lead acids either - and it’s not a safety issue just a performance issue… and I didn’t want to write an essay. DC2DC maybe 90% maybe less (depends on model I’ve seen them as low as 80%) - but they also limit current - if you have a 175 alternator and you have only have a 30amp DC2DC you are loosing a lot of potential charge The voltages of LifePo4 are completely compatible within the profile of lead acid… the advice of don’t mix chemistries is usually correct but in this instance the LifePo4 fits within the lead acid profile - as confirmed by the manufacturer’s cell spec sheets. We also do marine installs where we use hybrid configurations - with no reported issues. The cable to increase resistance I did caveat a little - most large alternators will handle the charge anyway (I have a 175 and it runs at 100amps at 90c at idle which is safe and much better than most DC2DC chargers and I didn’t have to spend money on an inefficient device) Alternators are self limiting to a degree so will back off as they warm up - the cable length in most camper vans will have so much resistance the alternator will back off anyway - obviously the cable needs to be capable of handling the max current the alternator can give out as any large load will overcome the resistance (this is no different to LA) - we’ve done tests and the heat dissipated by cable runs is negligible - especially compared to the heat from a DC2DC We program the batteries to switch off at 14v is about 99% charged and so further reducing stress - we are confident we can achieve over 6000 cycles and warrant for 5000 now. Which in many cases will outlive the camper van. The DC2DC boosting the voltage nonsense - true back in the days of 13.5v alternators - but high amperage alternators will run at 14.4v happily - and despite some manufacturers trying to say otherwise you don’t need fancy charge curves with LifePo4 - just a nice steady constant to hit over 14v (our programmed switch off) Now TBH the most dangerous part is the relay because many are not designed for high current - and this is also true with Lead Acid but it’s more of an impact with lithium - we have done hybrid installs with alternators connected to the domestic and the relay used to charge the starter so as to reduce current - and we’re currently looking at a super capacitor buffer device so we can remove the LA in hybrid setups. Now - what is the actual danger? Where will it fail? I note you haven’t actually addressed that part? Just explain where the danger is? Because what you’ve listed is mainly true for LA too! As per the battery supplier warrant - they are warranting for this setup knowing we’re not using DC2DC and the insurance we use for installs are also happy (after much sitting down and discussion… and arguments with several victim/victron engineers who were happy to say it was dangerous but couldn’t explain why…. And one in private told me he’d done the same even with his massive victron discount!! But OFC they make money selling and installing them… especially in the marine world)
Hey Shaun. You also need to say if you have a smart alternator, a split charge relay will not work properly either as it will over charge your battery.
Coming on great, for our van build we decided to use a portable stove rather than a built-in worktop on as it gives us the flexibility to cook outside on nice days as well, plus we don't have to faff around with the gas locker or getting LPG refills. We also used the USB rechargeable tap, which has worked well for simply brushing teeth, filling up water bottles and washing hands.
I’ve still got it I just haven’t installed it yet I wanted to wait till the bed was made to install it so I can access it without having to go in the unit
Next Sunday will be part 4 of this series but I did pop out for a last minute camp this weekend so if I have time to get that video together it will be live on Saturday
U ok mate I’m puzzled lol so iv brought an agm battery and a split charge relay kit. But now after watching a few videos im thinking I need a dc to dc smart charger so I don’t burn my alternator out or ruin my battery can you help me please love Sundays 🙏🏽
Hi just to let you know there is a guy on TH-cam did his channel is called big van small world he used a standard fridge under unit 1 and then he runs it on a smart power inverter which means when the fridge kicks out so does the power inverter he got his power inverter from Amazon.
You could've get away without making new holes in the floor for battery cables. There is actually a hosing underneath the van, I've managed to feed my charging cables there.
The agm battery younhave link do you any experience using it as iv been on amazon and there very mixed reviews for it. Or can you you recommend a different one in a similar price range
AGM batteries are all very similar to be fair. This particular one I used in my first Vivaro build and had absolutely no problems with it. Personally I would always use lithium now though just because a 100ah lithium is the equivalent of a 200ah AGM
I was wondering actually... What are you gonna do for moisture and air management/ ventilation ? I thought that a fan is needed for that. And if so, that should probably be fitted before the insulation? (First video) So what are you going to do for that? I'd love if you tell me I don't have to worry about that as I don't quite wanna cut into my future imaginary van that you are making me buy :) :D.
I’m going to install an opening window in the door. Fans are great but in my option not needed in a small van. As long as you can open a window it’s fine
@@LoveSundays MAkes sense. was thinking of that, too. So I guess a front-window guards so you can open it a bit, and back window so that there's cross-breeze? And how'd that be in winter? And is that enough for condensation? Can't wait for an episode tomorrow :D.
I’m self taught on everything. I would recommend you finding out as much as possible about a potential van you want to buy. A well looked after one is best
After swearing never to have another van after the disaster that was my last one, this build/budget has sparked an interest and I thank you for that ( for now😅)
Do it 😂
Always look forward to some quiet time on a Sunday morning to watch your videos. Will be good to see your adventures in the new van!
Thanks 👍
Thanks!
Thank you
Thanks
Thank you
Really enjoying this build. You are doing great work! Hey, how about you come to the US and build one for me!!?? 🤣🤣
I’d love to 😂
So talented - presenting and van building. Another great video and van is taking shape well.
Thank you
The most challenging part for me is the electric. I'd get so frustrated I'd need a drink. Your detailed explanation has saved me from alcoholism. With the savings I can now install the system as you painstakingly described, and have enough left over to buy you a beer 😊
Cheers 🍻
After reading some of the comments will still have the guy I know who does electric systems in boats to look it all over. I'm also adding in solar and he'll be better educated to combine the two systems while ensuring starter battery is always fully charged and 'cabin' battery charges only when starter battery completely charged. This is definitely the hardest part of my entire build.
Your electrical systems are so tidy! Impressive that you've stuck to your budget!
Thank you
Great to see your build progress - I could watch you work all day! Very relaxing and informative.
You were right first time on the M8 screws (although anyone who works with wood will call it a bolt) - technically a bolt has part of the shaft unthreaded ... They are sometimes called machine screws to separate them from wood screws or self tapping screws.
Useful explanation of different requirements to separate the van battery from the leisure battery (split charge vs dc-dc - lithium batteries are affected more by too high charging voltage than lead acid (which AGM is a special type of).
Looking forward to seeing more of the build and seeing you enjoying the odd weekend when it doesn't rain!
Thanks for the info concerning the split charging. That’s good to know.
Thanks Brian
Although this is an excellent build series, for those that find electrics a pita, there is a guy who runs all his aux battery needs by a jackery (or similar) that charges on solar or via 12v socket whilst driving.
His fridge was running via a 12v cigarette lighter and was more akin to coolbox.
He was featured on a van life channel last year, ( I forget the names) travelling in Canada in a ford econoline that was home converted. It even ran his diesel heater in the arctic circle.
That said, Shaun this is epic viewing, better than anything on tv 👌🏻
For my next build I will be running everything off a power station and showing the install
Loving the van build, this is a great way way to get out for you first season on a budget then save up and add solar or a fridge and any extras you want.
Thank you
Amazing series, so helpful, im about to do my 2016 vivaro and im going to pretty much follow your build exactly.
Im gonna cut cupboards in the unit though with shelving inside and make the worktop permanent so can mount stove to it.
So glad you put this series together!!
Iv literally just brought a Renault traffic after many years of wanting to convert a van to a camper this video is perfect for me 👌🏽looking forward to the nxt episode 🛌
Will say you owe a lot to Darren (think that’s his name) as that’s a super clean van he’s found you! Makes it super easy when the vans been looked after.
Was just about the say the same, the housing around the van battery looks brand new !
Darren is an utter legend.
I really like these build videos. Can't wait to see the van when finished. X
Thank you
Very good vid as always 👌 love how simple the leisure battery and split charge relay install was, thank you xxx😊
Great video series
something you need to do is get to your local timber yard. You'll find timber so much cheaper that BnQ!
Appreciate its not as convenient but youll save loads of money
keep up the good work
Split-charge relays and Lithium batteries should not be used together because Lithium batteries have very low internal resistance and pull too much current from the alternator which is not designed to charge Lithium batteries. What is going to happen is that your alternator will be overheating, especially when used in low revs, and eventually fail prematurely. Also, LiFePo4 batteries need 3 stage charging with 14.2-14.6V on the bulk and absorption stage and 13.6V at the Float stage to fully charge and most alternators don't do that.
For a budget build, an alternative and easier solution is to get a medium-sized Power station (something between €300-600, like Fossibot F800 @ €289, or Bluetti AC70 @ €550) and a cheap Pure Sine Wave inverter to use it only for charging the Power Station while driving.
Mercedes Vito MK1 W638 for the win 👍👍 Engine Will Do a Million Miles.
Ive just replaced my intercooler, Radiator, Waterpump, It lasted almost 25 years every part is over engineered.
Om611 Engine is Double Chain Driven Cast Iron Block with Getrag gearbox Basically Bullet Proof.
Yea they’re great engines. What’s the vans body work like? They’re prone to rust aren’t they? I’d hate to build a van then have to take everything back out because it needs welding
@@LoveSundays That's Where I got my Channel Name From 😬😬
I was lucky on my Van, it was a 1 owner from New very clean for it's age, it was ordered in Belgium as a UK spec Van and had the option for a sunroof, ive got all the original documents from purchase plus full electric pack, I done some research and it belonged to a family that is the Earl of Oxford.
it was theres before I brought at Auction. It's the only one I've seen with a sunroof, that's what made me buy it, I managed to get I for £650
Love what you are doing and how you are giving a quick guide. Thanks
Thank you
Hey Shaun sorry I couldn't watch on Sunday as I was shopping with my two granddaughters in Penzance. My eldest was 16 on Friday so I took them both out for a treat. Back home now in the midlands oh shit sorry buddy I love these vlogs 🤓🤓🤓😀
You're starting
to inspire me. out looking at vans last weekand. wife says I gotta stop watching your podcast.😊
Thank you
For this build, I would think a small decent lock box for all your expensive equipment would be a winner ?? I shudder each time I see you go out for a beer at the pub, with all your exy gear in the van .. just a thought 💭 😊 love the build !!! Very inspiring
Great point!
Another account just showed how they got broken into in Italy and had all their money and cards in a lockbox and that got smashed open too in the middle of the day whilst they were at the beach. Maybe stealth drawers etc are a much better idea? And a ring doorbell inside the van connected to your phone so you can head over and kick some ass (whilst wearing a go pro on your head for awesome content 😂)
Keep the videos coming always something to look forward too , great van build information 👍👍👍
Thank you
Superb video. Really enjoyed it . What a lovely clean little van. I love it👍🚐
Another great video Shaun, you’ve almost convinced me I could do the same myself which takes some doing😂😂!
You might want to uprate your fuse at the starter battery end of your wiring. The rating needs to be matched to the output rating of your alternator, whilst keeping it below the rating of your wiring. The victron will manage down the amperage from your alternator so you want that particular fuse to protect the wiring whilst not unnecessarily blowing when the alternator current is high, eg. If your starter battery is a bit low on charge, the alternator will ramp up its feed to bring it back up.
I replaced both fused to 40A which is what Victron recommend
Yep, definitely think I’ll go with the power station option Worth every penny in my opinion . Great video, nevertheless. Thanks
Thank you
This video helped me a lot with my electrical setup I appreciate it thankyou 👌
Great video, looking forward to see how it all takes shape
Thanks 👍
Coming along nicely Shaun 😊
Loving the build, it’s coming together lovely,
Thank you
Mechanic, Carpenter, Electrician and we will probably find out your a Sous chef. I am thoroughly impressed by your skills and talent and wondering why you don't start your own mini camper company. Here in the US VW will not sell T7 California camper and I read comments all the time how peope would love to buy a mini camper. Just a thought.
Awesome job mate, enjoying watching the build.
The only thing not in the budget is your great collection of tools...😃
Loving your videos.. well done. Looking forward to more.
Thank you
Keep up the good work bud,definitely got the camper,one of them things you just gotta do it’s a good bit of fun
Love how it is coming on and looking forward to seeing how I can buy it 😊...
Thank you
Great video mate. Love watching your content
love your work 👍if you end up with spare change then consider a battery shunt, not to expensive, but well worth putting in. cheers.
How about a tee shirt with Cheers on it , obviously with the love Sundays logo ..
Good idea
Lots of progress looks good
Thank you
Hi Shaun. Wow mate the van is looking good buddy. What a cracking job keep up the good work 😊😊
Thanks mate really enjoying this as it's the same van I'm going to get . And it's just going to be used for fishing trips . So Thanks again, look forward to the next one . Fully connected to your channel. 👌
Fab video again, hopefully you did but when drilling a blind hole.i would always investigate what's underneath and then when finished protect the bare metal.
With 18mm ply could you have piloted and screwed directly into the end grain?
Keep up the great work!
Thank you
Another great video Shaun,very informative. I'm mechanically minded but hate doing electrics but this was explained to be fairly simple.👍
Thank you
Loving the build Shaun. Maxx
Always enjoy watching your channel 👍
I appreciate that!
Those WAGO connections look like the scotch lock of there day . And scotch locks were awful in the 80s . If they got damp you had nothing but problems. Good stuff Shaun 😊
I’ve used them on my last 3 builds and had no issues
@@LoveSundaysthose connectors are perfect
Absolutely loving the channel. Just out of interest when you screw something into the floor on a van. Whats the process?. Like what’s the max length of screw you can use before it pokes out the bottom of the van. 😂🤦♂️🤷♂️ Like are vans designed with a floor layer knowing units are going to be screwed down? I did have a T5 camper for 8 years. But that was already converted. I now have a crafter camper. Again already converted. But still like to gain knowledge as might build my own one day. 🙏 But just would have liked to have seen you screw the unit to the floor.
Can’t wait for next video planning on doing this myself
Brilliant video mate
Nice work ! Looking good so far
Another great video mate. I have no clue about van electrics so this was ideal to watch for someone who doesn’t have a scoobies lol
Thank you
Enjoying this series alot Shaun. Interested to see how the bed layout will look. Im impatient I know 😂😂😂
The bed is finished the video will be out next Sunday or Tuesday on Patreon if you can’t wait 😉
Just heard you say you 18:59 are installing a lithium battery, your vsr is not going to be much good with lithium unfortunately.
Ig nor that, I've just watched the rest 😂
But a vsr will only charge and agm to a certain percentage not fully I had to rely on solar to top the agm up, since replaced the vsr with dc-dc.
Keep up the good work 👍
Loving your conversion. I've just bought a vivaro crew cab and about to start my very first conversion. The information on the products you have used is really useful so thank you for that.
I am wanting a fridge and microwave in my van so I have decided on a power station and solar, do you have any info on the power station you have and why you picked that one please?
Thank you for sharing your experience 🧡
You getting pretty good now.
Thank you
Loving this build I really fancy doing one I also fancy doing a vivaro was thinking LWB though.
Birdsong is a nice touch.😁
Great instructional video! ❤
Great video as I said on another of yours, but just wondered if it’s me being a little thick here? 16mins in you pull 2 wires through below the fuse box to connect for the lights but yet you switched them on by the switch panel on the end how are the two connected? I would have thought the lights should go into the switch on the end and not the fuse box as I can’t get me head around how they switch on 😊
Mate great stuff and nice a simple to follow 👍🏻
Thanks 👍
Fantastic video as always. I’m currently working on the electrics for my van, which wires were you using from the fuse box to the switch board? And from the battery to the bus bars. Would be really nice to have a video from you explaining more about your electric set up and wire sizing, potentially a future video?? Great job so far on the Budget friendly build!!
16mm cables mate
Good job. I'm not good with electrics, But you made it look a wee bit simpler.
Thanks 👍
22:08 these SoC monitors based on voltage don‘t work in LiFePO4 batteries. The voltage curve is too flat, it reliably shows you 0% and 100% tho 😂
That’ll explain why my battery has been on 100% since I installed it
Brilliant video! I kept thinking would it be cost effective to use a all in one power station and then right at the end you read my mind 😂
To be honest I would’ve used one but the cheaper smaller ones wouldn’t be enough for this van and to keep the cost down I installed the lithium battery. I might do another build after this one which won’t be on a budget and just go nuts 😂
@@LoveSundaysWould love to see that
I have owned several small US brand vans and have never seen a battery under the drivers feet. I am not sure how I feel about it. You made it work, though!
It's actually under the passenger footwell, and helps with auxiliary wiring as there is no bulkhead ( firewall) to go through.
In my Mercedes v class, the battery is under the passenger seat......... it's a pita 😂
Make sure you reset the battery monitor once the battery is fully charged. It won't come fully charged when it is new.
Don’t worry I charged it when it arrived
This build is looking very cool, and inspiring me to do this!. Your experience with these builds is really showing now, some nice neat work. My only concern is the location of the cable through the floor into the battery compartment under front seat. When the cover goes down, will it push it to a sharp 90° angle and shafe on the metal? The conduit may not protect it after a while. Just a thought....
Great videos, very detailed 🙂
You can charge LifePo4 via a relay - but you need a battery with a decent BMS - that’s one that can be programmed to shut down at around 14 to 14.2v - you’ll actually get better charging through a relay as DC2DC are really just current limiters (and quite inefficient too) so you may have a 150amp alternator limited to 30amps! You need to be aware that lithium will work an alternator hard… but with those cable lengths you’ll be fine as the resistance will trick the alternator into a lower current. The other danger is that your passing a large current through a relay which will lead to premature death! As most relays aren’t that heavy duty (a lead acid with there taper means the current rapidly drops off) you should also use a dumb relay not VSR as the floating voltage is higher.
so you can use a lithium through a relay - but there’s so much misinformation out there and also those that sell DC2DC’s and other kit have been actively pushing and lobbying for their kit to be used
Wow...
So much wrong info there and even a conspiracy theory thrown in for good measure.
Hard recommend anyone who reads your comment seek a *good* autoelectrician who understands smart charging, DC-DC converters, battery charging profiles, etc. to avoid their own premature death in a van fire.
@@M0UAW_IO83 which bit Mr anonymous? We’ve actually got the technique warranted and insurable! Yes vested interest groups are lobbying - I’ve been in the meetings with insurance companies!
@@M0UAW_IO83 Which bit is wrong? I should have added that it doesn’t apply if using a smart alternator (but that’s a performance rather than safety issue?)
Can you explain how it’s dangerous? Because nobody has ever been able to do so in years! What is the danger?
Yes… I’ve been in meetings with insurance companies and lobbying groups! And I’ve also had the technique explained to insurance companies so it can be installed and found battery suppliers that will warrant the setup?
So again - explain the danger?
@@ChristianMilesOnLine Plenty was wrong but you've changed your tune on your original statement to say that it doesn't apply to smart alternators so that's fixed some of it.
Dangers:
Relying on wiring to limit charge current is dangerous, the wiring will heat up, possibly to temperatures that could cause the insulation to soften, deform or fail (all fire hazards because it can eventually lead to a short circuit) and maybe even burn.
To negate another potential agument I can foresee you using, the ratings for wire are always given 'in free air' so enclosed wiring must be derated to prevent it overheating, see above for why that's a bad thing.
Batteries with different chemistries have different charge profiles, a vehicle charging system that's designed for flooded or sealed lead acids is not going to work well for a LiFePo4 or other chemistry, potentially with disastrous results (fire, smoke, destroyed battery).
Wrong:
DC-DC converters are used to boost the vehicle charge system voltage to a constant voltage high which is high enough to charge the battery to capacity/termination voltage, thus they can actually make battery charging *more* efficient than just the standard alternator alone
DC-DC converter chargers are current limited because the components used have current ratings, buy cheap crap, get lower current parts, need higher charge current, buy a better one.
Also, current limiting is often part of a charge profile (even for lead acids) which is designed to maximise battery life. Spec the charger to suit the battery type/capacity and vehicle charge system, if you do it right you'll get far better charging than your bodge it up connect it with a relay approach, plus it'll be safer.
DC-DC chargers can be 95% efficient, the better the quality, the more efficient, spend a bit of cash, get better results and longer battery life, see above.
All the manufacturer is saying is their batteries will last the warranty period despite you abusing them, they'll last far longer if you treat them properly which is definitely a good thing when you're dealing with expensive stuff like LiFePo4 batteries.
@@M0UAW_IO83 I didn’t really want to mention smart alternators as I don’t believe he has one and they wouldn’t work with lead acids either - and it’s not a safety issue just a performance issue… and I didn’t want to write an essay.
DC2DC maybe 90% maybe less (depends on model I’ve seen them as low as 80%) - but they also limit current - if you have a 175 alternator and you have only have a 30amp DC2DC you are loosing a lot of potential charge
The voltages of LifePo4 are completely compatible within the profile of lead acid… the advice of don’t mix chemistries is usually correct but in this instance the LifePo4 fits within the lead acid profile - as confirmed by the manufacturer’s cell spec sheets. We also do marine installs where we use hybrid configurations - with no reported issues.
The cable to increase resistance I did caveat a little - most large alternators will handle the charge anyway (I have a 175 and it runs at 100amps at 90c at idle which is safe and much better than most DC2DC chargers and I didn’t have to spend money on an inefficient device)
Alternators are self limiting to a degree so will back off as they warm up - the cable length in most camper vans will have so much resistance the alternator will back off anyway - obviously the cable needs to be capable of handling the max current the alternator can give out as any large load will overcome the resistance (this is no different to LA) - we’ve done tests and the heat dissipated by cable runs is negligible - especially compared to the heat from a DC2DC
We program the batteries to switch off at 14v is about 99% charged and so further reducing stress - we are confident we can achieve over 6000 cycles and warrant for 5000 now. Which in many cases will outlive the camper van.
The DC2DC boosting the voltage nonsense - true back in the days of 13.5v alternators - but high amperage alternators will run at 14.4v happily - and despite some manufacturers trying to say otherwise you don’t need fancy charge curves with LifePo4 - just a nice steady constant to hit over 14v (our programmed switch off)
Now TBH the most dangerous part is the relay because many are not designed for high current - and this is also true with Lead Acid but it’s more of an impact with lithium - we have done hybrid installs with alternators connected to the domestic and the relay used to charge the starter so as to reduce current - and we’re currently looking at a super capacitor buffer device so we can remove the LA in hybrid setups.
Now - what is the actual danger? Where will it fail? I note you haven’t actually addressed that part?
Just explain where the danger is? Because what you’ve listed is mainly true for LA too!
As per the battery supplier warrant - they are warranting for this setup knowing we’re not using DC2DC and the insurance we use for installs are also happy (after much sitting down and discussion… and arguments with several victim/victron engineers who were happy to say it was dangerous but couldn’t explain why…. And one in private told me he’d done the same even with his massive victron discount!! But OFC they make money selling and installing them… especially in the marine world)
Hey Shaun. You also need to say if you have a smart alternator, a split charge relay will not work properly either as it will over charge your battery.
I said that when I was sat in my transit in this video. I explained it at 2.50 in this video
@@LoveSundays ahhh I missed that part then 🤦🏻♂️
Great video 📹
Thank you
great video.😊
Splen😀did nr 3
Coming on great, for our van build we decided to use a portable stove rather than a built-in worktop on as it gives us the flexibility to cook outside on nice days as well, plus we don't have to faff around with the gas locker or getting LPG refills. We also used the USB rechargeable tap, which has worked well for simply brushing teeth, filling up water bottles and washing hands.
I always use a potable stove much easier
Almost time to bring that bad boy to Torbay.
Soon
Hi, watched this one a few times, did you end up keeping the pre wired fuses that came with the switch panel?, atb Chris
Yes I just left them in so technically everything had a double fuse. Not really necessary but easy enough to check if either ever blows
Can the victron you used also have solar connected to it ?
No you would need a MPPT controller for solar
Really enjoying this series. Wonder if the boss will allow me to do a build.....
Just ask you never know 😂
When is part 4 coming
Can you connect this unit to 240 hook up
What happened to the isolation switch? Did I miss something 🤔
I’ve still got it I just haven’t installed it yet I wanted to wait till the bed was made to install it so I can access it without having to go in the unit
Brilliant
Thank you
Nice work shaun its looking good well done buddy love the flip flops lol 😂😂🤭 see you next week are you out camping again
Next Sunday will be part 4 of this series but I did pop out for a last minute camp this weekend so if I have time to get that video together it will be live on Saturday
Couldnt you have got the battery and the other gubbins under the seats?
Yes quite easily
U ok mate I’m puzzled lol so iv brought an agm battery and a split charge relay kit. But now after watching a few videos im thinking I need a dc to dc smart charger so I don’t burn my alternator out or ruin my battery can you help me please love Sundays 🙏🏽
AGM batteries work with a split charge relay BUT if you vehicle has a smart alternator you will need a dc to dc charger
@@LoveSundays thanks for replying 👌🏽 I’ll have to try find out what alternator my van has
Ace video 👍
Thank you
Good god 😮 totally lost me 😂😂😂
Still watched though
Hi just to let you know there is a guy on TH-cam did his channel is called big van small world he used a standard fridge under unit 1 and then he runs it on a smart power inverter which means when the fridge kicks out so does the power inverter he got his power inverter from Amazon.
You could've get away without making new holes in the floor for battery cables. There is actually a hosing underneath the van, I've managed to feed my charging cables there.
Hi guys.... Answers please
Why arent people using more power stations like bluetti... Saves so much time.... Thoughts please...xx
He does address that at the end. Essentially, cost.
The agm battery younhave link do you any experience using it as iv been on amazon and there very mixed reviews for it. Or can you you recommend a different one in a similar price range
AGM batteries are all very similar to be fair. This particular one I used in my first Vivaro build and had absolutely no problems with it. Personally I would always use lithium now though just because a 100ah lithium is the equivalent of a 200ah AGM
Was looking at lithium but that's out side our budget at the mo
Wiring and electrical? I got lost on page one! 😂
😂
I was wondering actually... What are you gonna do for moisture and air management/ ventilation ? I thought that a fan is needed for that. And if so, that should probably be fitted before the insulation? (First video)
So what are you going to do for that? I'd love if you tell me I don't have to worry about that as I don't quite wanna cut into my future imaginary van that you are making me buy :) :D.
I’m going to install an opening window in the door. Fans are great but in my option not needed in a small van. As long as you can open a window it’s fine
@@LoveSundays MAkes sense. was thinking of that, too.
So I guess a front-window guards so you can open it a bit, and back window so that there's cross-breeze?
And how'd that be in winter?
And is that enough for condensation?
Can't wait for an episode tomorrow :D.
Do you have electrical background or self taught? Youve inspired me to build my own camper also what van would recommend matey?
I’m self taught on everything. I would recommend you finding out as much as possible about a potential van you want to buy. A well looked after one is best
Noah had a split charge relay , c'mon even for a budget build surely you can run to a B to B charger.
Is having a fridge over the electrics risky at all? I'd be concerned about moisture 🌧
That’s a valid point. I think I’ll be fine though as long as it’s vented and sat on a thick shelf