Great info , I’m wanting to build a 496 possibly for a drag and drive old school pro street 70 Elcamino . I’ll be watching more videos as there’s and drive stuff is really catching on in the Pacific Northwest .
Wow a nice engine you have there..and sounds kickass ! Makes me Jones to get my ass in gear and build one asap.. Had to subscribe..keep up the good work.
@bure4me not sure, north of 454. Guy I bought it from didn't know s..t about the car. It's a street car, about to install a new 9inch, suspension, brakes all around. Pulling the motor and Trans to get a look at them. Hope to bring it out in the spring.
What do you think of the MSD black Billet Distributors those things are really nice ain't they using one in my 383 right now fired right up on the dyno but that big block really make some nice power there sounds like a good one I have a 71 big block Pontiac 455 what do you think about one of those motors for building great video later bye
I have thought about a vacuum pump. The valve covers were part of a pkg I bought of a dude getting out of the big block space. I need to paint them green and weld some bugs and a filler or maybe use the motion burn down o-ring setups
Hey there, Rick here from Australia 🇦🇺. Have been following your Big Block build for a while. Here in Australia we have a Brand called Aeroflow, that sell a BBC set of heads that are similar to the AFR 315. Would you think these would work just as well the same valves, beehives etc. The Aeroflow Series of Aluminium Cylinder Heads are taking affordable performance street and strip cylinder heads to the next level. These heads utilise ultra-smooth A356-T6 aluminium castings, new as-cast runner and chamber designs produce excellent flow numbers. This combined with a 5-angle competition valve job, diamond-honed bronze guides, hand bowl blending and professional assembly help to outperform some of the best brands in the business. Aeroflow's Big Block Chevy cylinder heads are designed for entry-level street performance engines and ideal for operating in the idle to 6750 rpm range. Made from A356 aluminium castings. These complete heads include larger-than-stock 1.625" (41mm) diameter dual valve spring to handle up to 0.850" (21.5mm) maximum valve lift. Recommended spark plugs are 14mm x 3/4" reach with flat gasket seat. Head Specs: Chamber Volume: 121cc Chamber Intake port volume: 315cc Intake valve size: 2.25" Exhaust valve size: 1.88" Valve spring diameter: 1.625" (41mm) Rocker stud diameter: 7/16" Pushrod diameter: 3/8" (width of slot in guide plate) Spark plug style: Straight Flow Chart cfm @ H2O .200".300".400".500".600".700".800" 2.25 Intake 167 246 311 351 380 385 385 1.88 Exhaust 142 183 236 270 294 310 313
Thanks for the comment. They look very similar in terms of flow and valve size. The knock on the off brands has always been consistency and assembly. If you picked up the bare castings and had them finished by a trusted place that would be the best route.
@@bure4me thanx, yes thats what i was thinking of doing. I read you said you used PAC 1255X beehive springs. Can you tell me the brand valves (in / exh) and part numbers. Also bands and part numbers of retainers, collets, rockers etc. All that i would need to achieve same heads etc. Would be greatly appreciated mate. Cheers Rick
@RJ D machinist really wanted me to go with titanium valves for the least amount of weight for a hyd roller he wanted Rev over 7k. The weight time and cost were too long so we compromised. The intakes are hollow stem Stainless and required a special lock. You may want to go a different route on the valves to avoid some of these headaches.I typically like to keep things as standard as possible should there be a failure. Nobody wants to have an issue and need a one off specialty lock or something that might be hard to come by.
What kind of lift and duration do you have with a hydraulic cam? What heads? I’m building a very similar setup but solid cam and brodix heads. 2927 intake. Just seems real close to 800. I’m also in Mizzou country
Probably need to spin higher than I am. I've thought about it but I do so much distance stuff then race that I don't want spring pressures so high things start failing. By failing I mean like rocker studs or rockers arms breaking.
Hey brother nice build I just got a quick easy question. Do you know what the total timing is with total advance I see you had conservative run of 32°. I'm just wondering where it made the most power what was your total timing thanks
We ended up at 39 but his starter wasn't happy with locked out timing. Ran out of gas before he could try more. I'm attempting to find the real peak at the track but having issue with it in the cat. Fuel delivery or ignition
Hey Bob I have a 060 over 427 so it's a 439 it's got around 11to 1 compression afr 265 heads a howards hyd roller it's small 235x241@50 on a 108 lsa 618 lift it made 661 hp on the dyno can you tell me what cam your running?
The same Straub hyd roller 258/260 with .665/.638 lift designed for 10.3:1 afr315 496 to get to 6500 rpm. I have since used in a 10.3 version, 11:1 with afr265s, and now back to afr315s but with more compression.
@@bure4me do the afr315 work alot better then the 265s? Cause I was thinking about building a 496 and sending my 265s to Eric wingardner to make them flow better and enough for a 496 or 505 cubic inch
@richardsmith-qy6vl my 265s were not impressive out of the box. My engine guy ported my team g and heads to a more true rectangle port vs roval. He upped my cam from .612 to .650 lift and it went from 585 hp to 680 hp. The chamber between the heads offer more compression with the 265s over 315s and in my case mid range tq was better with that bump so i ran the 265s for a couple yrs.
@@bure4me thanks someone else told me they did the same thing when they git there 265s ported that they turned them into rec ports I have a Victor Jr. On mine it seems to work for now my engine only has dyno time on it I'm putting it in the car next weekend I seen the video of your car on tha 9 sec pas very impressive for NA.
Engine sounds good. Just read the comments so I know your working to make more power to go faster. Right now your making 1.53 Hp per C.I. Thats great for a highly efficient hot street engine. If your racing, you need to be in the 2.2 Hp per C.I. Your gonna need larger Cylinder Heads, nitrous w/turbo; if you stay normally aspirated your engine needs to be in the 1100 Hp range. I dont know what category your racing in so Im sure you already know this. Just call me Capt.Obvious
This cam was spec'd for a 400 shot. I have a plate capable of 500. I primarily do race week like events with plenty of street miles then race 5 tracks in a week. I already bought a 4.5 bore block so maybe 2025 I'll have a 540 or bigger and maybe a procharger
@@bure4me Sounds like you're on top of it. When you go from 1.5Hp/inch to 2+Hp/inch, nothings cheap, not like its cheap at the 1.5Hp/inch either. Good luck on reaching your goals!
I have a tunnel ram that came with a bundle some dude got rid of. I am going to do more chassis work so I can use the power it already makes. If I can get my 60'to the 1.20s I can think about more power
Nice.. Don't forget a cold air box is worth about 1-2 tenths off your time. If that's your Nova in the video, looks like It could use more converter, leaves kinda slow from the video. When I put in a 5500 converter and a trans break OMG! It's gonna be fun!! Keep us posted@@bure4me 😁
@kevins5833 the converter is tight 4400 nitrous deal. With the amount of nitrous I'm looking to spray it's about out of desired power range. It drives great on the street for what the car is. I went from 3.25 to 3.50 gears about a yr ago. It just went 1.35 60 on spray 2 weeks ago
@kevins5833 I started this yr all motor but the events I do can be either and with the ost of an 8.50 cert and everything necessary for sub 10 second 1/4 mile times I want to see about an 8.9x. It went 9.33 at 144 into a stiff wind with the 1.35 60' pass. I will have a video out pretty soon about some gremlins that maybe kept me from inching closer to bottom 9s on a 255x60x15 drag radial
that sounds so good, nothin like big block power
Nice build,thanks for sharing your information..
Great info , I’m wanting to build a 496 possibly for a drag and drive old school pro street 70 Elcamino . I’ll be watching more videos as there’s and drive stuff is really catching on in the Pacific Northwest .
Sounds incredible! BAD ASS
I really dug the beginning with the music!
Sounds good! Nice job! I have a VERY similar combo in my Camaro and makes about the same power too.
Wow a nice engine you have there..and sounds kickass ! Makes me Jones to get my ass in gear and build one asap.. Had to subscribe..keep up the good work.
Thanks for subscribing
BAD ASS !!
just subscribed, gotta see more!
I love it when my stuff rules. I have a 468 that made over 850 brake HP. 780 on a chassis dyno. 😊
Sounds rowdy
600 lb ft for over 3000 rpm. Nice combo.
you make nice videos and cool engine that hey, sounds like armageddon
Bob, live not far from you. I’m running a big block in my 71 Nova as well. Not those kind of numbers. Killer car, hopefully run into at the track.
How many cubes are you running? Street/strip or all strip?
@bure4me not sure, north of 454. Guy I bought it from didn't know s..t about the car. It's a street car, about to install a new 9inch, suspension, brakes all around. Pulling the motor and Trans to get a look at them. Hope to bring it out in the spring.
What do you think of the MSD black Billet Distributors those things are really nice ain't they using one in my 383 right now fired right up on the dyno but that big block really make some nice power there sounds like a good one I have a 71 big block Pontiac 455 what do you think about one of those motors for building great video later bye
I had a polished pro billet. I bought this primarily for ruling out misfire.
Vacuum pump would help also a fresh air horn on dyno like the valve cover where you get them?
I have thought about a vacuum pump. The valve covers were part of a pkg I bought of a dude getting out of the big block space. I need to paint them green and weld some bugs and a filler or maybe use the motion burn down o-ring setups
Hey there, Rick here from Australia 🇦🇺.
Have been following your Big Block build for a while.
Here in Australia we have a Brand called Aeroflow, that sell a BBC set of heads that are similar to the AFR 315. Would you think these would work just as well the same valves, beehives etc.
The Aeroflow Series of Aluminium Cylinder Heads are taking affordable performance street and strip cylinder heads to the next level. These heads utilise ultra-smooth A356-T6 aluminium castings, new as-cast runner and chamber designs produce excellent flow numbers. This combined with a 5-angle competition valve job, diamond-honed bronze guides, hand bowl blending and professional assembly help to outperform some of the best brands in the business.
Aeroflow's Big Block Chevy cylinder heads are designed for entry-level street performance engines and ideal for operating in the idle to 6750 rpm range. Made from A356 aluminium castings. These complete heads include larger-than-stock 1.625" (41mm) diameter dual valve spring to handle up to 0.850" (21.5mm) maximum valve lift. Recommended spark plugs are 14mm x 3/4" reach with flat gasket seat.
Head Specs:
Chamber Volume: 121cc Chamber
Intake port volume: 315cc
Intake valve size: 2.25"
Exhaust valve size: 1.88"
Valve spring diameter: 1.625" (41mm)
Rocker stud diameter: 7/16"
Pushrod diameter: 3/8" (width of slot in guide plate)
Spark plug style: Straight
Flow Chart cfm @ H2O
.200".300".400".500".600".700".800"
2.25 Intake
167 246 311 351 380 385 385 1.88 Exhaust
142 183 236 270 294 310 313
Thanks for the comment. They look very similar in terms of flow and valve size. The knock on the off brands has always been consistency and assembly. If you picked up the bare castings and had them finished by a trusted place that would be the best route.
@@bure4me thanx, yes thats what i was thinking of doing. I read you said you used PAC 1255X beehive springs. Can you tell me the brand valves (in / exh) and part numbers. Also bands and part numbers of retainers, collets, rockers etc. All that i would need to achieve same heads etc. Would be greatly appreciated mate. Cheers Rick
@RJ D machinist really wanted me to go with titanium valves for the least amount of weight for a hyd roller he wanted Rev over 7k. The weight time and cost were too long so we compromised. The intakes are hollow stem Stainless and required a special lock. You may want to go a different route on the valves to avoid some of these headaches.I typically like to keep things as standard as possible should there be a failure. Nobody wants to have an issue and need a one off specialty lock or something that might be hard to come by.
Yeah but did it make power at high rpm or drop off due to a large stroke.
740 at 7100, the dyno was set to stop at 7200. I'll see where it falls flat at the track soon
What kind of lift and duration do you have with a hydraulic cam? What heads? I’m building a very similar setup but solid cam and brodix heads. 2927 intake. Just seems real close to 800. I’m also in Mizzou country
@@ericwiningar8410 258/260 @ .050, 665/638 lift. Afr315 heads.
@@bure4me Thx! Those heads flow a ton on a big bore. Any idea how much on a 4.31? I’ve been on a budget with the dragon slayer 320
@@ericwiningar8410 I just posted a bench racing video. It showed 386 at 700 lift
Great results I have similar cam in my 496
Which beehive spring did you use. I'd like to go that way
Pac 1255x-16
What headers are those? Do you have the part # or model?
These are not for the car, we eventually switched to mine that are used in the car. I'll see if he has a part number
Big block Chevy 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
What would you say to solid roller lifters?
Probably need to spin higher than I am. I've thought about it but I do so much distance stuff then race that I don't want spring pressures so high things start failing. By failing I mean like rocker studs or rockers arms breaking.
Hey brother nice build I just got a quick easy question. Do you know what the total timing is with total advance I see you had conservative run of 32°. I'm just wondering where it made the most power what was your total timing thanks
We ended up at 39 but his starter wasn't happy with locked out timing. Ran out of gas before he could try more. I'm attempting to find the real peak at the track but having issue with it in the cat. Fuel delivery or ignition
Hey Bob I have a 060 over 427 so it's a 439 it's got around 11to 1 compression afr 265 heads a howards hyd roller it's small 235x241@50 on a 108 lsa 618 lift it made 661 hp on the dyno can you tell me what cam your running?
The same Straub hyd roller 258/260 with .665/.638 lift designed for 10.3:1 afr315 496 to get to 6500 rpm. I have since used in a 10.3 version, 11:1 with afr265s, and now back to afr315s but with more compression.
@@bure4me do the afr315 work alot better then the 265s? Cause I was thinking about building a 496 and sending my 265s to Eric wingardner to make them flow better and enough for a 496 or 505 cubic inch
@richardsmith-qy6vl my 265s were not impressive out of the box. My engine guy ported my team g and heads to a more true rectangle port vs roval. He upped my cam from .612 to .650 lift and it went from 585 hp to 680 hp. The chamber between the heads offer more compression with the 265s over 315s and in my case mid range tq was better with that bump so i ran the 265s for a couple yrs.
@@bure4me thanks someone else told me they did the same thing when they git there 265s ported that they turned them into rec ports I have a Victor Jr. On mine it seems to work for now my engine only has dyno time on it I'm putting it in the car next weekend I seen the video of your car on tha 9 sec pas very impressive for NA.
That's a perfect cam in 427
What's the cam on that
258/260 @ .050 .665/.638 108 lsa
Damn...i was close on the dyno guess😆
Did you delete it? I'm not seeing a guess
@@bure4me nope it's on your other upload.....guessing how much power
@@musclebone7875 that's where I looked
@@bure4me oh ok! Maybe someone reported it. It's all good. I guessed 770hp and 690tq originally
@@musclebone7875 that was close
What fuel are you running
Pump 93 with additive for just driving around and 110 when in competition
What is the cam info ?
258/260 .665/.638
@@bure4me nice job !!! ….. sounds killer !!!! 💪💪💪
Engine sounds good. Just read the comments so I know your working to make more power to go faster. Right now your making 1.53 Hp per C.I. Thats great for a highly efficient hot street engine. If your racing, you need to be in the 2.2 Hp per C.I. Your gonna need larger Cylinder Heads, nitrous w/turbo; if you stay normally aspirated your engine needs to be in the 1100 Hp range. I dont know what category your racing in so Im sure you already know this. Just call me Capt.Obvious
This cam was spec'd for a 400 shot. I have a plate capable of 500. I primarily do race week like events with plenty of street miles then race 5 tracks in a week.
I already bought a 4.5 bore block so maybe 2025 I'll have a 540 or bigger and maybe a procharger
@@bure4me Sounds like you're on top of it. When you go from 1.5Hp/inch to 2+Hp/inch, nothings cheap, not like its cheap at the 1.5Hp/inch either. Good luck on reaching your goals!
Ups my mistake I thought it was a duster no that was a Chevy Nova
Put in a big "race" cam and a Dominator and you'll be knocking on 800 HP...
I have a tunnel ram that came with a bundle some dude got rid of. I am going to do more chassis work so I can use the power it already makes. If I can get my 60'to the 1.20s I can think about more power
Nice.. Don't forget a cold air box is worth about 1-2 tenths off your time. If that's your Nova in the video, looks like It could use more converter, leaves kinda slow from the video. When I put in a 5500 converter and a trans break OMG! It's gonna be fun!! Keep us posted@@bure4me 😁
@kevins5833 the converter is tight 4400 nitrous deal. With the amount of nitrous I'm looking to spray it's about out of desired power range. It drives great on the street for what the car is. I went from 3.25 to 3.50 gears about a yr ago. It just went 1.35 60 on spray 2 weeks ago
Oooooohhh, didn't know you were spraying. I though you were all motor...1.35 is good, I'm guessing you ran about 9:50@ 141appx?@@bure4me
@kevins5833 I started this yr all motor but the events I do can be either and with the ost of an 8.50 cert and everything necessary for sub 10 second 1/4 mile times I want to see about an 8.9x. It went 9.33 at 144 into a stiff wind with the 1.35 60' pass. I will have a video out pretty soon about some gremlins that maybe kept me from inching closer to bottom 9s on a 255x60x15 drag radial
@bigblockbob compression ratio?
Ended up at 12.8:1
825
BBC already has a designated meaning. 😂
@@jimmyjames8164 especially on Craigslist
@@bure4me 🤣🤣🤣
A Chevy in a Mopar I like it dollar for dollar you can't beat them their more consistent and cheaper to build 😊