Just replaced mine with aluminum lower control arms and replaced the struts with new KYB complete strut assemblies up front , new steering ball joints ,sway bar bushings and links,and new KYB rear nitrogen gas shocks. Van drives and rides so nice now and nice and firm but not to firm and does not sway in corners and stays nice and flat at all times and big plus no nose dive when braking hard. Couldn’t be happier. Fun to drive now and no more noises. Now off to the alignment shop.
Great video. The tip on measuring the center of hub to edge of the fender was priceless . I had to use a pickle fork to remove the ball joints because it was stuck beyond stuck.
Did this today on my ‘05 Odyssey. Didn’t see anything obviously wrong with the old parts- no hideous bj play like you had. But a huge improvement resulted anyway. No more clunk and the front end is so much tighter and steering is much more direct feeling.
Thanks for the video. Effective and complete with every detail. The video is helpful. :) One minor info: I jacked the lower control arm before tightening the horizontal screw. However, even the car was lifted from the stand jack. The distance between the axle center to the rim was longer than the car before starting the work, about 1.5" more. I could not shorten it further. Just tightened the screw with this distance.
Thanks for these short videos. I'm replacing a water pump & timing belt right now on an 02 PT Cruiser. I watched your video last night which is making this job go quicker. Yeah I hit the thumbs up trying to help out.
Thanks Jeff, I really appreciate that and it means a lot. Anytime you let one of my videos play all the way through, it really helps out the channel so thanks for stopping by!
I don't comment much. Was trying to decide whether to just replace my bad ball joint or just do the entire control arm. You get a thumbs up and a sub for this vid. Everything was short and to the point. As mentioned in another comment nut torque specs would have been a nice addition, but overall very well done instructional. Some of these auto repair vids are soo long and it's usually down to bad editing, a lot of dead time in the vid. This is my first time watching your channel so I can't speak to all your vids but I definitely love that it was quick and to the point. That was the big seller for me on giving a thumbs up a sub and a comment. If I could give extra thumbs up I would. I know TH-cam won't count them but here they are anyway👉👍👍👍. Thank you! 😃
New subscriber great video as I own a 07 Honda Odyssey. Just a retired aircraft mechanic and auto enthusiast diyer. Thanks for sharing the video and your knowledge Artie 😊🇺🇸
I like that you stress not tighening control arm bolts until your at ride height👍 measuring is much easier than trying to do it when vehicle is on the ground😊
VERY NICE VIDEO! has a certified member of health and safety I really like the extra safety you put into it both jacks stands the jack and the tire if everyone worked safely like you there would be almost no accidents EXCELLENT!!!
Thanks Jorge! I usually don't get into safety that much only because I don't want to be held responsible but lately I've been starting to add more safety tips
Thank you very much, everything was very well explained, everything was very easy for me, especially because I don't know anything about mechanics, thank you.
Cool . I had a problem with the sway bar link i removed only 1 and tried moving it so i can have room for the bolt. So I have to remove both side like u to move it a little bit to have room. . Gonna try this thanks so much.
This is my “a-ha!” moment. I couldn’t get the horizontal bolt back in because the sway bar was in the way. It looks like you have to remove both wheels to get space to do so? Thanks!
This video is really helpful, thank you. I liked how you included socket sizes. The only thing missing are torque specs which should be easy enough to find elsewhere.
Just curious but was that for just the control arms? I have nearly that into parts but that's for a complete suspension redux. Struts, Sway Bar Bushings and Links, Tie-rod ends, hub bearings, CV Axles, Control arms and then onto the rear. Same deal, links, arms, hubs, springs, and shocks.
@GoFastGator it was for control arms and CV axels. Parts wise, I got all my parts for around $600. And then i got a little money back from scrapping the metal with other stuff.
Not questioning the necessity to do so, but why do you have to jack up the wheel to the 16.5" height before tightening that bolt you mention? Are you locking the metal portion of that bushing in a different clockwise/counterclockwise position by lifting up the wheel, than it would be if you left the wheel hub sagging down?
To clock the center collar of the bushing at normal ride height before tightening. If you don't do it, it will be fine but the bushing May prematurely tear.
Disconnecting the tie rod enables access to the horizontal 19mm bolt, with no need for the swivel connector. Saw that on another video. I share it in case others lack that swivel connection.
Is there a tool or method to preload the struts to make it eaiser to install the control arm? I was thinking of putting a jack on the bottom of the stut above the knuckle but thats eaiser said than done because there is a CV boot in the way.
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Its not easy to get everything assembled because the geometry doesn't work in your favor. It would be far eaiser if there was a tool to compress the struts.
Great vid, very well done and accurate! Thanks! fyi- I do not think it’s possible to replace the horizontal bolt unless you remove both wheels. I tried jacking up the sway bar but there was not enough room on the sway bar to get the bolt back in. Definitely have to remove old wheels.
Question: if you were doing the struts at the same time, would you replace the struts first, drop the car, drive it, and then measure the distance from the hub to the fender? It’s one of those spring and strut kits so I presume the front would rise a bit with new equipment. Thoughts? Thanks
Great question, didn't even think of that! I'm going to be doing the same replacements. What did you end up doing replace struts, drop n drive, then replace lower arm?
I have never heard the part where you mentioned that before tightening the front bushing to lower the car a bit. Never seen anyone else do it, does this apply to all odysseys or just this model?
Correct me if I’m wrong here. Wouldnt grabbing the top and bottom of the wheel and rocking it demonstrate the play in the ball joint. Moving the wheel left to right could demonstrate the play in a tie rod end.
This video is outstanding! I watched it 3 times now taking notes before I place an order for parts. I am going to change out the struts with the Monroe complete units. Do you have an opinion on how I should 'preload' the lower arm adjustment? Should I keep it the same as what I initially measured with the old struts? Thank you.
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Thank you. Placed the order for parts and I'll start the work this upcoming Saturday! I've got 198,000 miles- how many on your Odyssey?
Heating fastener's to remove them is the biggest misconception. Heating just makes them tighter. Cold makes it shrink. But you can heat then cool to make the metal walk.....
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Do you have the torque spec for the CV joint NUT? I am planning to replace that as well since the boots are getting cracked and have 258,000 km on them.
Just changed this along with the inner&outer tie rods, sway links. All were ripped. Arm was a bitch to remove. Hitting it like shown on this video didnt do anything.
On Amazon:
*LEFT CONTROL ARM: amzn.to/3dsdgqY
*RIGHT CONTROL ARM: amzn.to/381VmdF
*FRONT SWAY LINKS: amzn.to/2YxXg2z
*JACK STANDS: amzn.to/2VeLXKo
Everyone needs to make videos like yours. 9 times outta 10 I am under a car watching theses videos needing info ASAP. Bro you nailed it keep it going
Clear directions, including each tool size, less than 10 minutes, well shot, well executed.. thank you!
Just replaced mine with aluminum lower control arms and replaced the struts with new KYB complete strut assemblies up front , new steering ball joints ,sway bar bushings and links,and new KYB rear nitrogen gas shocks. Van drives and rides so nice now and nice and firm but not to firm and does not sway in corners and stays nice and flat at all times and big plus no nose dive when braking hard. Couldn’t be happier. Fun to drive now and no more noises. Now off to the alignment shop.
I like fast-paced videos like yours because I can easily replay them 3-4 times to memorize the steps. Thank you for the clear explanations.
Great video. The tip on measuring the center of hub to edge of the fender was priceless . I had to use a pickle fork to remove the ball joints because it was stuck beyond stuck.
Glad it helped!
You save my life was doing it the hard away but when I watch this it was so easy thanks bro 🤜
Fantastic concise video. Maybe the best video like this.
only thing I would have wanted more the torque specs for the ball joint and the other bolts
Did this today on my ‘05 Odyssey. Didn’t see anything obviously wrong with the old parts- no hideous bj play like you had. But a huge improvement resulted anyway. No more clunk and the front end is so much tighter and steering is much more direct feeling.
Perfect video: Shows how to do it without a lot of "filler" content. Subscribed and Liked! Thanks!
Thanks for the video. Effective and complete with every detail. The video is helpful. :)
One minor info: I jacked the lower control arm before tightening the horizontal screw. However, even the car was lifted from the stand jack. The distance between the axle center to the rim was longer than the car before starting the work, about 1.5" more. I could not shorten it further. Just tightened the screw with this distance.
Thanks for these short videos. I'm replacing a water pump & timing belt right now on an 02 PT Cruiser. I watched your video last night which is making this job go quicker. Yeah I hit the thumbs up trying to help out.
Thanks Jeff, I really appreciate that and it means a lot. Anytime you let one of my videos play all the way through, it really helps out the channel so thanks for stopping by!
Exquisite. Going to do mine. Broke it down to trouble shoot. Appreciate the tip about the center of the hub, I would have missed that. Thank you.
Great video. I’m an experienced wrench and still benefit from seeing a true expert working
Thanks g5! I appreciate you watching
I don't comment much. Was trying to decide whether to just replace my bad ball joint or just do the entire control arm. You get a thumbs up and a sub for this vid. Everything was short and to the point. As mentioned in another comment nut torque specs would have been a nice addition, but overall very well done instructional. Some of these auto repair vids are soo long and it's usually down to bad editing, a lot of dead time in the vid. This is my first time watching your channel so I can't speak to all your vids but I definitely love that it was quick and to the point. That was the big seller for me on giving a thumbs up a sub and a comment. If I could give extra thumbs up I would. I know TH-cam won't count them but here they are anyway👉👍👍👍. Thank you! 😃
This is an excellent video! So fast so clear and so helpful. A+
New subscriber great video as I own a 07 Honda Odyssey. Just a retired aircraft mechanic and auto enthusiast diyer. Thanks for sharing the video and your knowledge Artie 😊🇺🇸
Thanks Artie I really appreciate that. I've always wanted to get into aviation mechanic. Maybe one day
I like that you stress not tighening control arm bolts until your at ride height👍 measuring is much easier than trying to do it when vehicle is on the ground😊
perfect & straightforward video!
Good job Dude you made that look so painless and easy 👍👍 thanks for the video
Excellent - thank you for taking the time to share this info!
Very good video straight to the point good info and not wasting your time.Thank you.
fast paced is what I've been trying to film lately too!
Damn that was fast and right to the point definitely subscribing!
Fantastic video, I did as instructed and everything came out great, thanks a million.
VERY NICE VIDEO! has a certified member of health and safety I really like the extra safety you put into it both jacks stands the jack and the tire if everyone worked safely like you there would be almost no accidents EXCELLENT!!!
Thanks Jorge! I usually don't get into safety that much only because I don't want to be held responsible but lately I've been starting to add more safety tips
Great job, sir.. quick fast in a hurry
Thank you very much, everything was very well explained, everything was very easy for me, especially because I don't know anything about mechanics, thank you.
Very informative, well explained. I have done it before but I didn’t think about checking the space between hub and fender.👍👍
Great video I have never preloaded control arms! Thanks for the tip!
Great video. It was very insightful but short and to the point. Thanks and I'm subscribing.
Awesome, thank you!
Awesome video. Thanks for the info. Going to tackle this this weekend
Excellent video. Took me 3 hours for both control arms. I ended up having to use a pickle fork.
Thanks. And awesome!
Cool . I had a problem with the sway bar link i removed only 1 and tried moving it so i can have room for the bolt. So I have to remove both side like u to move it a little bit to have room. . Gonna try this thanks so much.
No problem Justin, good luck with it!
This is my “a-ha!” moment. I couldn’t get the horizontal bolt back in because the sway bar was in the way. It looks like you have to remove both wheels to get space to do so? Thanks!
This video is really helpful, thank you. I liked how you included socket sizes. The only thing missing are torque specs which should be easy enough to find elsewhere.
Awesome to hear you found it helpful and I appreciate the feedback. Thanks!
I just got quoted 3k to do this. Thank you for this video.
Just curious but was that for just the control arms? I have nearly that into parts but that's for a complete suspension redux. Struts, Sway Bar Bushings and Links, Tie-rod ends, hub bearings, CV Axles, Control arms and then onto the rear. Same deal, links, arms, hubs, springs, and shocks.
@GoFastGator it was for control arms and CV axels.
Parts wise, I got all my parts for around $600. And then i got a little money back from scrapping the metal with other stuff.
Excellent vid thanks for posting it 👍🏽 You know it's a Gen 3 Odyssey with the corrosion on the quarter panels.
Great video… thanks for sharing your experience/knowledge
WOW! You made that look easy ... makes me think I could do it too. Thx
Thanks man simple video loved it I'll check tomorrow if I can do it or not!
You saved me a couple hundred dollars! Thank you
Thank you for this video, it was extremely helpful!
Great to hear that and I appreciate you commenting. Thanks!
Not questioning the necessity to do so, but why do you have to jack up the wheel to the 16.5" height before tightening that bolt you mention? Are you locking the metal portion of that bushing in a different clockwise/counterclockwise position by lifting up the wheel, than it would be if you left the wheel hub sagging down?
To clock the center collar of the bushing at normal ride height before tightening. If you don't do it, it will be fine but the bushing May prematurely tear.
Disconnecting the tie rod enables access to the horizontal 19mm bolt, with no need for the swivel connector. Saw that on another video. I share it in case others lack that swivel connection.
Great no-nonsense video.
Thanks!
Is there a tool or method to preload the struts to make it eaiser to install the control arm? I was thinking of putting a jack on the bottom of the stut above the knuckle but thats eaiser said than done because there is a CV boot in the way.
You preload it with a jack from the bottom once everything is all assembled and tighten the horizontal bolt after it's preloaded
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Its not easy to get everything assembled because the geometry doesn't work in your favor. It would be far eaiser if there was a tool to compress the struts.
Amazing info. Earned a sub👍👍👍
Hi I have a Honda odyssey 2009- not the luxury one, do you think I can use the wheel from a newer version on this one?
Great vid, very well done and accurate! Thanks! fyi- I do not think it’s possible to replace the horizontal bolt unless you remove both wheels. I tried jacking up the sway bar but there was not enough room on the sway bar to get the bolt back in. Definitely have to remove old wheels.
Question: if you were doing the struts at the same time, would you replace the struts first, drop the car, drive it, and then measure the distance from the hub to the fender? It’s one of those spring and strut kits so I presume the front would rise a bit with new equipment. Thoughts?
Thanks
Great question, didn't even think of that! I'm going to be doing the same replacements. What did you end up doing replace struts, drop n drive, then replace lower arm?
I have never heard the part where you mentioned that before tightening the front bushing to lower the car a bit. Never seen anyone else do it, does this apply to all odysseys or just this model?
Awesome vid! No nonsense. To the point. Thanks!
Awesome useful video, thanks. Saved me a bunch of $$$
Great video very easy to understand
Very informative video. Thank you!
Very good, didn't waste time. Thank you
Awesome concise video. Thanks
Correct me if I’m wrong here. Wouldnt grabbing the top and bottom of the wheel and rocking it demonstrate the play in the ball joint. Moving the wheel left to right could demonstrate the play in a tie rod end.
Will this make uour van steering wheel turn weird to one slide no matter how many times you get it aligned thanks.
Yes if the bushings are torn it can
Excellent video!!!
Sweet.. question 2004 yukon upper ball joint it isnt coming free have an idea why??
Is it held in with a retaining ring? I assume you removed it if so. What are you using to get the ball joint out? A C-Frame ball joint press?
Yes I am but the retaining ring has been removed and at the junk yard no torches are allowed 😢😢
Oh damn. Yeah not sure what to say then. Maybe sneak a small propane handheld torch in. Little heat goes a long way.
Was thinking of a mini torch and take a look out. LOL
Anyone know if the 07 Odyssey has camber/caster adjustment or is it just toe in/toe out on this specific vehicle ???
Thank for the details.
What make control arm is that? Is it holding up?
I don't remember what the make was. It was from AutoZone
Good work!
Piece of cake ❤
This video is outstanding! I watched it 3 times now taking notes before I place an order for parts. I am going to change out the struts with the Monroe complete units. Do you have an opinion on how I should 'preload' the lower arm adjustment? Should I keep it the same as what I initially measured with the old struts? Thank you.
Great to hear you found the video helpful and I appreciate you checking it out. Yeah I would just set it at the same height as the old struts
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Thank you. Placed the order for parts and I'll start the work this upcoming Saturday! I've got 198,000 miles- how many on your Odyssey?
Awesome! It's actually not my Odyssey. It's my friends but he has probably about 240K on it I think. Maybe more
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow awesome- so great for you to help others.... I will do the same.
Great video thanks brother
No prob!
excellent video
Thanks for the tips 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
no prob!
On point
Thumbs up 👍 nice work ✅
Thanks very helpful 🤩
No problem! Very happy to hear you found it useful.
Thank you
Thanks for the video
Torque specs for bolts?
Very helpful, thank you. :)
No prob!
U didnt show how to put back driver side front lower control arm bolt
Everything you need to know is in the video! Anything he didn't show should be just common sense...
Very nice video
Thanks!
😅thx for the info thumbs up
Thumbs up! Thanks !
I would add that you should check to see if they sent you steel control arms those look like aluminum.
Thanks useful video but removing the sway bar was a pain in the ass
Yeah they always are. Especially when they get rusty. Sometimes easier to just cut off
Excellent ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Torque ft lbs:
Control arm bolts = 65
Ball joint nut = 51
👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Heating fastener's to remove them is the biggest misconception. Heating just makes them tighter. Cold makes it shrink. But you can heat then cool to make the metal walk.....
Heat helps. Trust me. Helps break the bond
I would add torque specs👍👍👍
Let me know what they are and i'll add them in description. Thanks!
NoNonsenseKnowHow 65 ft lbs for both lower control arm bolts, 51ft lbs on the ball joint and 58 ft lbs on the swaybar links👍
Thanks! I'll add that to the descriptions. Crossing my fingers that your specs are accurate. Lol. ;)
done
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Do you have the torque spec for the CV joint NUT? I am planning to replace that as well since the boots are getting cracked and have 258,000 km on them.
😀
Just changed this along with the inner&outer tie rods, sway links. All were ripped. Arm was a bitch to remove. Hitting it like shown on this video didnt do anything.
May I ask how long it took you approximately? I’m going to be doing the same thing. Any other tips? Thank You a head of time.
Thank you very great video man