Thanks for the demo of StyroPlast. I just recived my order today and of course, put it to use. In the past I have used StyroSpray, a product from Industrial Polymers. There is a marked difference in the two products so I will put together a vid on both as a comparison. I will shoot you an email when it is up.
I am making life size theatrical props and so wanted to see styroplast in action Thanks for your informative videos. Also, these miniature terrains are fascinating!! This is my first exposure to them and I can see why people love making these! They are beautiful.
I'm glad you found it helpful. It's an interesting product and is genuinely different from the other urethanes I have used. I'm glad I was part of the introduction to miniature terrain for you. :)
wow this stuff looks very, very cool, I'm fairly new to plasters & materials like this, but it looks very fun to play around with, might pick some up. Thanks for this review, very nice.
Find your videos really helpful,looks like it could be a good product to edge your boards with save framing them in wood was wondering do you base you boards with anything or are they just solid foam.
Great work!! Wondering if u can give me se advice.. Interested in making a water feature that's 4ft tall.. Would u recommend using grout, styro plast, or foam coat with boost??
What is the use as a casting material? As it is rigid yet flexible and does not break easy it may have a good plication as a casting material for that special and more complicated cast. Could you color it from the off (i.e. dropping in some color in part A)? And last but not least what is the flexibility of the item when casting it as a flat survace? Obviously the painting part is important in particular if I can use it for special casts so I would be interested in the choice of primer you use!
I'm thinking of making a teardrop camper out of foam. Would Styroplast be a good coating for the outside of the camper? Could it then be painted with oil base polyurthene porch and deck paint or stay with latex? What's its strength on foam say 2"x2"x4' vs. say a piece of pine 1"x2"x4'?
I'm curious as to how thinly you can apply it. Let's say you spent a lot of time on a piece, carved a bunch of detail, etc. etc. But wanted a nice rigid protection on it, how badly would it conceal details? If it goes on thin enough, you could even use it as a final protective sealer for molding purposes. As well as what other have brought up as a possible cheaper alternative to casting resins. (assuming it is in fact cost effective, I don't remember any kind of price being mentioned)
So I ordered and received a shipment of Foam Coat, Boost, and Grit. If my waterfall will be subjected to water, will these products keep my project waterproof, or will I have to use a final coat of a Aquarium grade sealant? Also, once I apply the foam coat, grit and bounce, which type of paint do u recommend I use to get a realistic rock effect? Acrylic??
two things: Is this more a rubber or a plastic? if it's more like a plastic, do you think it would be possible to make hollow structures (you could paint it on a shape and pop it out)
Wonder how it tints? ... And what with? I think a Testor paint in the B thinner might blend well. Putting it in a mold under vacuum might come out nice. And as an adhesive, cutting small keys to lock onto works with wood putty. Why not foam?
You mentioned that you couldn't use this product to make sculptures like stalactites or what ever. You also mentioned that you would like ideas to test this product. Here is one that might let you make sculptures: Use the hot knife product that they sell and create a negative mold in foam of a stalactite, or tyranid, or whatever. coat the inside of the foam with a lubracant to prevent the Styroplast from adhering to the foam. Coat the inside of the mold with the Styroplast. Voila: sculputre
I've noticed there is a Portuguese company called Styroplast that manufactures thermoplastics. And there's a polish company called Styroplast that produces building moldings out of polystyrene. I wonder if there is any relation to this product.
@vassago42 After writing that, I realize he had super glued the handle. In that case, it's rather unlikely to have caused any issues. Cyanoacrylate is much less toxic than any Iso. He may have been one of the few people who are sensitive to that particular molecule. Super glue polymerizes almost immediately when introduce to moisture, rendering it virtually harmless. At worst, you'll get irritation of the eyes, nose, and throat. he may have been one of the few who are affected more by it.
@vassago42 heating it could have vaporized more of the monomer if the glue had not completely cured yet, concentrating the 'vapor'. That could have been his problem. I have had my eyes irritated by super glue before, but never had any respiratory issues.
One thing to remember is that you also have to prime it for painting BEFORE it is fully cured....otherwise it can flake off. And this stuff only likes to go on Thin...wear gloves AND mask! BAD ON LUNGS!
yes, just check the lable on that stuff...have good ventilation.. I use the Glidden primer...called Glidden Gripper. I have noted that if I use a primer first on my foam, I can also use spray textures etc and it will not eat into the foam then. Also, over such materials as this also then gets you back to a surface you can do more to the surface texture, details etc. The gripper also covers over any fill you have done like exterior fillers, wood filler, etc. Does a very nice job of extra sealing. And often, I have not needed more. However, if people are going to touch the object a lot, I can see the need for this stuff, and have tried it. Mine must have been too old as it remained sticky, fixed that with a primer coat over it. I do displays for a nature centre, so have done much larger sculptures, etc. I am going to try the styo spray 1000 (which one can also brush and roll on) as well, as I think it may work better for larger projects. Let me know if you have tried it.:) Cheers! Oh, and it IS VERY toxic if you don't wear gloves, it seeps into your system...be careful! :)
@Catachan1brainleaf If the part B is burned, it will produce Carbon Monoxide and Hydrogen Cyanide. Both of these are toxic. That is possibly what was giving that fellow breathing troubles. An iso by itself is a respiratory irritant already, but to burn it just makes it worse. Also, if water were to get into the bottle and contaminate the Iso, carbon dioxide will be produced pressurizing the bottle causing a potential bursting hazard which itself could also pose a health hazard.
used it to coat a 3x6 ft sheet... very uneven. VERY hard to use. but that was mostly because it sets up so quickly/. app.box.com/s/bxym3rygh559yx4cxzqqk7gzmshqwdya I don't think I'll use it on the front
foofighterubu It does set up quickly, but you can probably slow that down by cooling the parts in the fridge before mixing. (Do a test first of course. *grin*) When I have used it, I found it best to mix small amounts and work over small areas at a time. Same is true for the foam coat, but it has a longer set up time and can be extended depending on how you mix it. I think that you would have the best luck with getting a smooth finish by applying it more thickly so it can self-level. Work in small areas and overlap just a tad. You will still likely need to sand down the seams, but it will probably depend on practice. Just my thoughts, since I haven't used it on large flat areas. I second Laura below. Contact her for tips and ideas. They are super nice, and very helpful. :) Oh, cool bulkhead. Looks great!
Music is obnoxious to the point I was ready to exit.. I decided to stick around until I heard "pretty unique" Something is either unique, or it is not. You cannot modify a superlative. There is no such thing as "pretty" unique", "so" unique, "very" unique or any other kind of unique. Unique is a stand alone word. Literacy counts towards credibility; you are not credible.
![CAMPปลิ้น | EP.83[2/2] ประสบการณ์ขนหัวลุกจากตำนานวงการผี!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/T_kFecQw7Ds/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for the demo of StyroPlast. I just recived my order today and of course, put it to use. In the past I have used StyroSpray, a product from Industrial Polymers. There is a marked difference in the two products so I will put together a vid on both as a comparison. I will shoot you an email when it is up.
I am making life size theatrical props and so wanted to see styroplast in action Thanks for your informative videos. Also, these miniature terrains are fascinating!! This is my first exposure to them and I can see why people love making these! They are beautiful.
I'm glad you found it helpful. It's an interesting product and is genuinely different from the other urethanes I have used. I'm glad I was part of the introduction to miniature terrain for you. :)
Very interesting material has a lot of potential. Looking forward to finding out how paint sticks to it.
wow this stuff looks very, very cool, I'm fairly new to plasters & materials like this, but it looks very fun to play around with, might pick some up. Thanks for this review, very nice.
What do you think about its possible use for casting for example the hirst resin only railings?
Find your videos really helpful,looks like it could be a good product to edge your boards with save framing them in wood was wondering do you base you boards with anything or are they just solid foam.
Great work!! Wondering if u can give me se advice.. Interested in making a water feature that's 4ft tall.. Would u recommend using grout, styro plast, or foam coat with boost??
What is the use as a casting material? As it is rigid yet flexible and does not break easy it may have a good plication as a casting material for that special and more complicated cast.
Could you color it from the off (i.e. dropping in some color in part A)?
And last but not least what is the flexibility of the item when casting it as a flat survace?
Obviously the painting part is important in particular if I can use it for special casts so I would be interested in the choice of primer you use!
I'm thinking of making a teardrop camper out of foam.
Would Styroplast be a good coating for the outside of the camper?
Could it then be painted with oil base polyurthene porch and deck paint or stay with latex?
What's its strength on foam say 2"x2"x4' vs. say a piece of pine 1"x2"x4'?
I'm curious as to how thinly you can apply it. Let's say you spent a lot of time on a piece, carved a bunch of detail, etc. etc. But wanted a nice rigid protection on it, how badly would it conceal details? If it goes on thin enough, you could even use it as a final protective sealer for molding purposes. As well as what other have brought up as a possible cheaper alternative to casting resins. (assuming it is in fact cost effective, I don't remember any kind of price being mentioned)
So I ordered and received a shipment of Foam Coat, Boost, and Grit. If my waterfall will be subjected to water, will these products keep my project waterproof, or will I have to use a final coat of a Aquarium grade sealant? Also, once I apply the foam coat, grit and bounce, which type of paint do u recommend I use to get a realistic rock effect? Acrylic??
two things:
Is this more a rubber or a plastic?
if it's more like a plastic, do you think it would be possible to make hollow structures (you could paint it on a shape and pop it out)
Wonder how it tints? ... And what with? I think a Testor paint in the B thinner might blend well.
Putting it in a mold under vacuum might come out nice. And as an adhesive, cutting small keys to lock onto works with wood putty. Why not foam?
Will do.. Once again, thanks for the advice..
You mentioned that you couldn't use this product to make sculptures like stalactites or what ever. You also mentioned that you would like ideas to test this product. Here is one that might let you make sculptures: Use the hot knife product that they sell and create a negative mold in foam of a stalactite, or tyranid, or whatever. coat the inside of the foam with a lubracant to prevent the Styroplast from adhering to the foam. Coat the inside of the mold with the Styroplast. Voila: sculputre
I've noticed there is a Portuguese company called Styroplast that manufactures thermoplastics. And there's a polish company called Styroplast that produces building moldings out of polystyrene. I wonder if there is any relation to this product.
Thanks for the review. Do you think you could cast objects with it?
Thanks for the advice.. Keep up the awesome work..
OK, so I am uploading the videos now. There is about an hour and 20 minutes to get them up. They should be added soon.
@vassago42
After writing that, I realize he had super glued the handle. In that case, it's rather unlikely to have caused any issues. Cyanoacrylate is much less toxic than any Iso. He may have been one of the few people who are sensitive to that particular molecule. Super glue polymerizes almost immediately when introduce to moisture, rendering it virtually harmless. At worst, you'll get irritation of the eyes, nose, and throat. he may have been one of the few who are affected more by it.
@vassago42
heating it could have vaporized more of the monomer if the glue had not completely cured yet, concentrating the 'vapor'. That could have been his problem. I have had my eyes irritated by super glue before, but never had any respiratory issues.
thanks for this
One thing to remember is that you also have to prime it for painting BEFORE it is fully cured....otherwise it can flake off. And this stuff only likes to go on Thin...wear gloves AND mask! BAD ON LUNGS!
I didn't notice any vapor issues, but your tip on priming is interesting. I can see that really improving the bond. Great Tip!
yes, just check the lable on that stuff...have good ventilation.. I use the Glidden primer...called Glidden Gripper. I have noted that if I use a primer first on my foam, I can also use spray textures etc and it will not eat into the foam then. Also, over such materials as this also then gets you back to a surface you can do more to the surface texture, details etc. The gripper also covers over any fill you have done like exterior fillers, wood filler, etc. Does a very nice job of extra sealing. And often, I have not needed more. However, if people are going to touch the object a lot, I can see the need for this stuff, and have tried it. Mine must have been too old as it remained sticky, fixed that with a primer coat over it. I do displays for a nature centre, so have done much larger sculptures, etc. I am going to try the styo spray 1000 (which one can also brush and roll on) as well, as I think it may work better for larger projects. Let me know if you have tried it.:) Cheers! Oh, and it IS VERY toxic if you don't wear gloves, it seeps into your system...be careful! :)
@Catachan1brainleaf
If the part B is burned, it will produce Carbon Monoxide and Hydrogen Cyanide. Both of these are toxic. That is possibly what was giving that fellow breathing troubles. An iso by itself is a respiratory irritant already, but to burn it just makes it worse. Also, if water were to get into the bottle and contaminate the Iso, carbon dioxide will be produced pressurizing the bottle causing a potential bursting hazard which itself could also pose a health hazard.
used it to coat a 3x6 ft sheet... very uneven.
VERY hard to use.
but that was mostly because it sets up so quickly/.
app.box.com/s/bxym3rygh559yx4cxzqqk7gzmshqwdya
I don't think I'll use it on the front
foofighterubu Hi I'm from the company. If you have any questions or concerns, we are always happy to help. Call us 866-735-9255
foofighterubu It does set up quickly, but you can probably slow that down by cooling the parts in the fridge before mixing. (Do a test first of course. *grin*) When I have used it, I found it best to mix small amounts and work over small areas at a time. Same is true for the foam coat, but it has a longer set up time and can be extended depending on how you mix it. I think that you would have the best luck with getting a smooth finish by applying it more thickly so it can self-level. Work in small areas and overlap just a tad. You will still likely need to sand down the seams, but it will probably depend on practice. Just my thoughts, since I haven't used it on large flat areas.
I second Laura below. Contact her for tips and ideas. They are super nice, and very helpful. :)
Oh, cool bulkhead. Looks great!
thanks.
I'll try that.
And thanks it was a lot of work and about wrecked my hands working on it.
thicker coats are ok with deep cut details.
but tricky to keep details if too heavy on the foam coat.
You talk too much and did not really show anything about the product.
Foam Factory has horrible customer service. They only gave it to you because it's cheap advertisement.
Music is obnoxious to the point I was ready to exit..
I decided to stick around until I heard "pretty unique"
Something is either unique, or it is not.
You cannot modify a superlative.
There is no such thing as "pretty" unique", "so" unique, "very" unique or any other kind of unique.
Unique is a stand alone word.
Literacy counts towards credibility; you are not credible.