@@VikingAirgunnerHej igen Peter. Undrar vilken rack du har under flaskan då jag skall göra som du med kolfiberrör och kronograf. Är det en Sabre eller ? Och Tusen Tack för dina lärorika videor. Längtar efter nästa. I veckan hoppas jag min M3 kommer cal.177/licens. Ha en skön o trevlig söndag /Rolf
Great instructions. As I understand it, by using the front screw to reduce the velocity as a final step, you are getting rid of the excess air, which will cause turbulence on the back side of the slug or pellet. Thanks
Excellent video Peter thanks for sharing. Another trick I find is not to set the plenum pressure too low. I set it at ca. 90 bar to reduce the violence in the system, but in my Mk2 - it needs to be ca 120 in order to seal effectively and consistently (even though I don’t need more than 90 bar to achieve the velocity I’m after). Looking forward to your next video
Great instructional video. Don’t worry about the people saying you’re a cheat. They’re the ones that probably cheat all the time ABF because they cheat, the thing everyone else cheats. Keep up te great videos.
I do exactly this but I go one step further. When you turn in the valve adjuster you are essentially creating a back stop limiting how far the valve opens. Remember when you use that to cut the velocity you are still using a hammer spring tension creating a strike that is just as hard as the one that created the 20 fps more before you turned in the valve adjuster. IE you have more hammer strike at this point than you need. So after cutting velocity with the valve adjuster I start turning down the hammer spring 2 micro clicks at a time (why the m3 tuning system is so superior) until the velocity goes down just a bit. Once that happens I give it two clicks back up and leave it. You will be surprised how much you can actually reduce that hammer tension and keep the same velocity. Does it ultimately make a huge difference 🤷♂️🤷♂️. I just figure it is best to work the gun no harder than necessary.
@@VikingAirgunner Yes you end up in the same spot. The only difference is you are easing up on how hard the hammer is hitting the valve and the valve that rubber ball in the adjuster.
Hello, how are you? Let me introduce myself. We are from Argentina, Halcón Airguns, and we have been testing configurations for our M3 for a long time. We tried this method, but perhaps because of the changing climate, this method makes the rifle inconsistent. We discovered that the method is almost the same, but we are closer to setting the regulator!! First, we find out the maximum velocity that the rifle gives us through the hammer in that setting, and once we have found it, we try to make it 30 fps more than the velocity we want to make sure that the hammer will always open the valve in the same way, because due to temperature changes, the valve does not always open in the same way!!! If we lower the hammer so many points to lower the speed, we get inconsistent spread, instead of lowering the hammer so much, it gave us more results to lower the setting a little more!! And the maximum speed, which would be 30 fps more, there is working with the front valve!! Thank you very much for your contributions, they are very important for all users of these rifles. A big hug from Argentina, Halcón Airguns
Thank you so much for your comment 🙂 I really want to make a video on how to tune the Panthera, but the general inconsistancy of the gun makes it really difficult 😪 Im currently considering a Huma regulator that might very well be the answer. So there just might be a tuning video in the horizon 🤗
Great video, I used to tune I think is an old way , where first I will open the valve full open then power wheel on maximum power (16) . Then I will start shoot and increase the spring tension clicks until the speed will not increase any more. Next step I will turn the valve wheel to close by about 1/4 turn each time until the speed start to drop then ,then return ( open ) just about 1/4 to the to get that high speed .the third step is to shoot at each power wheel (example start from 8 , until 16) at each power I will make a group of five shots to find a best group which i will use to shoot at . But I think your new way it seems to me it will be better to try , because I think you tune valve at wanted speed so you will have No waste extra air which might cause inaccurate . I will try your way I hope for better results. Question: why you start by finding maximum speed then you go back to set the power wheel to the wanted speed + 20-30fps?, why you didn’t go to direct to find the wanted speed +20-30? Thanks for good video.
There are many methods and thank you for sharing yours 🙂 Right or wrong is only determined by accuracy 😎 The way I tune is to get better harmonics. If it is 1010 max - turn down 20 and the rest by the front valve adjuster. Or it is other values is free for anyone to interpet. Again - whatever works is good 😎 I like this way since it eliminated the slow and low in the first attempts, and of cause the super feel and accuracy 🙂
I have try your way it seems to be good . I wanted a velocity of 950fps , I have checked the maximum speed is 970fps . So I have adjusts the hammer power wheel and clicks to 970fps.and then the valve adjuster to 950fps. As you can see I have adjusted hammer spring to my maximum speed, is this correct? Or do you think if I raise the 2nd air regulator little more to be above 970fps example 990 or more. Will this improve the consistency Results? I think I will try that.
@@mytube3687 Now that you have the gun set, try to adjust it down from the max at 970 by using the front valve adjuster. If it doesnt work give the 2nd reg a bit more and adjust it down by both hammer and front valve adjuster 🙂
I think I got the problem, because even at around 20m or 30m it was impossible to shoot one hole .Then I checked if there’s any screw loose or my scope every thing was perfect then I checked the barrel and found that the o rings fitted on the liner were moved almost at the end of the barrel so I fitted extra o rings total about 8 and fitted back carefully with electrical insulation tape to hold them on place.i am happy now I can shoot a hole at 30m , now remaining I will check at 100m accuracy. have you done anything to your gun liner to reduce vibration for better accuracy?
It would be great if i knew if you were shooting pellets or slugs,? Im guessing .177 but maybe. 22, ? What brand?. I did eventually learn that the range was 100m but it was only later. I like your videos and the research you do. Neil. Impact 5:09 .25 600mm mk2.
Lot of informations to learn on Steve’s channel but some pros use the front valve, some not…. Some pros delete the front reg and get good precision and constitency.. but happy that you find a way that your m3 get it right 👌 happy shooting 😉
I think the valve adjuster is gold. In my opinion it allows the m3 to maintain more consistency in velocity across a broader range than say a Maverick. The m3 will maintain velocity consistencies further below the optimal spot for a given reg pressure than say a Maverick will. At least that has been my experience and I believe the valve limiter is key in this.
Great video Peter. I agree, so much BS out there regarding grouping, even with the so called pros, one tried to say it was 100yds, but when he walked it he only took 75 steps & a Jack Russell dog had a bigger stride, it was closer to 50. Me, I use a scope with built-in RF so it's clear & i do sub moa with ease. My last was 13 shots 120yds in 10mph + winds. I shoot golf balls at 110yds 12/12 in strong winds & it's all on video where it's proven. When I hunt I say where I will hit the target before I take the shot, even at 150+yds & yes in the wind also. I train & practice in the wind every day. One thing I don't do is get caught up with numbers when tuning, my current tune is 10fps SD & it has precision accuracy. Low numbers do not mean precision accuracy, it just means consistent numbers. What matters is consistent precision accuracy 🙂
Going to give this a shot thank you for sharing. My rifle suffers from the first shot low and slow and I absolutely cannot stand it. Having to waste a shot to get the velocity back up really gets on my nerves. I have super cheap PCP rifles that never have this problem.
It is absolutely frustrating and I hope that you will solve the problem by using this method. Another method is the hillbilly way where you just dry fire a couple of times before shooting - but its still not what you want...
very clear explanation!! Btw, can you shoot fac in Denmark without permit? Only on your own property or also in the woods? Here in The Netherlands everyone can buy fac rifle without background check or permit.
Greetings from Brazil! Congratulations on your videos, I have learned a lot from them. I would like to know the caliber you used, the weight of the projectile, and whether it was a pellet or a slug?
Hi Carlos Thank you so much for your positive comment. Comments like yours is the whole reason Im doing this 👍👍 Im always shooting 177. Gun laws in Denmark requires a licence if you want to use the bigger calibers. I prefer slugs since the ballistic coeficient is superior to pellets, and with my passion is mainly for the longer distances it makes sense. My much prefered slug in the heavy liner is the 16 gr Zan 🙂 Best regards Peter
Hi Ronald, I would consider a spread of 3-4 to be fantastic. 7 is good but above this I will start to focus on getting it down. But sometimes I do focus too much on the spread. Did shoot a 2,1 cm group at 100 m with a 17 fps spread, but the consistancy was not good.
Great instructions Peter. I have seen guys maxing out pw and hst and then reduce it a bit..what's your thoughts on this. I don't like it.. Also I can i achieve a desired fps wd 2 settings; 1. High reg pressure and moderate hammer strike 2. Low reg pressure and high hammer strike I believe that high reg pressure will shut the valve quickly and will avoid extra air..?
Thank you 🙂 I have two ways of tuning and have had good experience with both. First method is the one in this video and the other is the method in my earlier tuning video. I will recommend you to watch both videos and then you will know my prefered methodes 🙂
I dont have any experience personally with 25 cal, but if I was in your situation I would go for Zan slugs. I cant say wich weight, but I would choose a medium weight - so not the lightest and not the heaviest.
Great video Peter! This helps a lot. My problem though is that when following the instructions my speeds are still all over the place. I shoot with the 28gr ZAN slugs in .22. In essence I think the steps are the same but I don’t see a consistent downgrade of speed when turning down the hammer. Sometimes it’s 920 but the next moment 940 again. What are your starting settings? Or is there anybody in the chat that may have the solution for me? My 2nd reg is at 120. Aiming speed is 930. I ended up at macro on 8 and micro around 4. Valve is touching the 4th line. Any help is welcome. Just looking for consistency
I cant say that Im an expert in 22, so I can only give you some general advise. Usually spread issues comes from the regulator, so a lube and polishing the springs could be a place to start. Secondly you could try some diffent types of ammo. Sizes, brands and weights. I dont start any particular place when I start tuning, but usually very low so I know that I just have to turn up the reg. I hope that you will solve this issue 🤞🤞🤞🤞 Best regards Peter
Much more to the point than other tuning video's thanks. Hey do you know a good place to order online FX parts in Europe ? I have a friend in Italy who can ship them to me we having nothing in Australia so hard to find and you need to wait for ever.
Check out Europe Airguns and Krale. Those two places will cover almost everything 🙂 Europe Airguns has the standard parts and Krale the special parts and will usually have new parts as the first👍
@@nickch96 Just standard 🙂 Tried the soft one and it made the velocity drop - Im no expert on this mod, but I dont really think that it is nessecary for 177 🤔
Hallo peter, I always watch Your Tunnning VIdeo,. i have question, how many Consume for 1 Shoot,. Or How Many Consume for 10 Shoot (remaining gas in the cylinder) And How many Shoot and you will Clean your barrel ? Thanks Before,.. :)
I answered this in my latest video, so take a look at that. Remember that it has to do with the volume of air you have available. 1x480 cc or example 1x580 cc. I never clean my barrels - or I might do it if I cant find accuracy. But it has never made any difference.
So you have to find the absolute Max velocity of that regulator setting and then bring it down 30 with the macro micro then the last 20 with the valve adjuster knob am I following you Peter?
Spot on! That was the way I choose to do it, but the combi can be done differently. 30 and aprox 20 did it for me 🙂 Final tuning is then done ok the front valve adjuster
Hi I have a wildcat MK3 .177 cylinder which as no valve adjustment only hammer and the micro adjust under hammer, how do i set it up to get a low FPS spread if possible. thanks
Hi Sean I had the same gun and I cant really say that I became an expert, but I found that the reg preasure was important. So not to low so that you shoot a max velocity vs reg. And defenately not to high reg. It will give you a high spread and some hige jumps when tuning the power wheel. So maybe try to have the max velocity at 20-30 fps higher than your desired velocity and then turn it down using the power wheel. Sorry I cant be more helpfull mate 😯
So if you shooting a certain weight pellet here in the uk we are governed by being sub 12 ft/lbs so we would know the fps we need but how do you know what reg pressure to start on?
the weight of the pellet is important , the pellet thats gets it over 12ftlbs is making the gun illegal , and the police will use that .does not matter if you dont even have those pellets , speed x speed x half pellet weight gives the energy , meters x meters x grams gives joule s 16 joule is 12 ftlbs ,most regs setting in the uk starts with 60 bar but can be more depends on hammer, transfer port and valve openiing
So If my fx m3 is standard I would have to adjust hammer wheel and the micro adjuster so that it shoots around 1111 fps then drop hammer wheel down to 980 fps then turn valve adjuster until it gets to 960fps. Why don’t you adjust micro adjuster as well?
Im sure that you mean 1011 and not 1111 fps? 😉 But yes thats right. And with this method of tuning the quick tune system is not nessecary. But then again some say that they still use it while tuning like this. Not sure how and why though 🤔
Actually I have a Panthera right here, but Im experiencing some issues that I cant really make out, but as soon as it has been fixed, I will SPAM you with Panthera videos 😀
Thank you so much for this clear explanation, I was stuck with my m3. I have a .22 500mm barrel and I was tuning it for 960fps. I opened the valve all the way and then turn up the hammer tension till the fps drops again and then turn the tension back a little. Then I wind the valve in till the pressure dropped and opened it a little bit again. But my accuracy was not good, allready had a spread of 1-1.25cm at 30 meters. So I’m gonna try to tune it like you do and hopefully it will sort everything out because I’m getting really frustrated. So bad that I’m thinking to buy a Panthera but that needs to be tuned as well 😂
Hi Peter ! Got a Cal .22 Sniper M3, shooting 18 grain JSB Pellets and executed your tuning method but again same problem: Gun 1 hour or longer not in use, no changes and constantly 100 bar pressure in 2nd Reg, but first shot low speed (925 ft/s) then increasing with further 4-5 shots to desired constant 970 ft/s. This is not acceptable for hunting use. Any Ideas what causes this (non logical) problem?
Sounds very strange and frustrating. Usually the drop in velocity is due to a little creep - reg preasure increasing in the rest period. When you shoot the gun does gauge drop - and by how much? How long before it stabilizes? What is the difference between your 1st and 2nd reg?
@@emmerichweinlich1057 No it is the oposite. Watch my latest video about the Huma reg in my Panthera for the explanaition 🙂 I want to help you with the issue and in order to do so I need some info. And the questions I asked are to get a better picture.
Bro you dont have to prove to anyone that you are shooting at 100. Thank you for helping us with your advices. I wanted to ask you, why do you set 960 fps as a point of velocity. Why dont you keep on going up until the gun tells you. I am surrounded by you know that there is a point where velocity pauses then you have to push it up like 4-5 points so it will go up. I guess because it’s a slug right?! Thank you again…
Thank you so much 🙂 I do my best to show my results and be honest. So very happy that it is appreciated 🙂 Im not sure exactly what you mean by the velocity. Can you perhaps rephrase so I can give you the best answer 🤗
I think that you are close to what I would shoot. My suggestion would be 970-985 fps. But then again Im slowing down a bit hitting 960 fps with the 16 gr as you saw in this video. So that would be an interesting experiment 🤓
@@VikingAirgunner I am still having a lot of trouble tuning my gun. Especially settling at a certain speed. My problem started when i installed the High Flow Pin Probe. Have you ever used this with 13gr slugs (ZAN or JSB). Any suggestions for the setup?
@@panicosshiouftas3339 Have you tried changing back to the pellet probe? Not that I usually recommend a pellet probe for slugs, but just might help. Apart from that a cleaning if the barrel can help sometimes. Have you tried tuning as I suggest in this video and in my other tuning video?
Hej. Fin video 👍🏼 Håber du kan hjælpe mig i den rigtige retning. Jeg kigger på en mk3 i en .22 men hvilken løbslængde skal jeg gå efter. Hvor meget for men mere i en 700mm ? Jeg vil gerne kunne skyde lidt krager gerne på 200-150 m. Og så mål skydning på samme afstand.
Tak for det. I din situation ville jeg gå efter en 700 mm heavy liner, da du vil få meget mere ud af at skyde med slugs i forhold til almindelige hagl. Sammenligner du 600 mm med 700 mm kan du skyde med en del lavere tryk på regulatoren og dermed et mere harmonisk gevær. Man kan også få 800 mm, men da man ikke rigtigt ser nogen bruge det, fortæller det mig mellem linjerne, at den ikke er så fantastisk.
@@VikingAirgunner tak for svar... det var det jeg ville vide. Jeg må tømme sparregrisen og se at få bestilt. Jeg glæder mig til flere oplysende videoer fra dig af. 👍🏼
Well some say that the M3 is the final version of the Impact, but the guy from FX USA had the same question and he didnt say that it was not comming 🤔 He said that it was not anytime soon bcs of all the fuzz about the Dynamic block and the different versions being released on that platform. So my guess - and it is only guessing - is that we will see a successor to the M3 in about a year. So if it will be called the M4 or not, that we will have to see 🙂
You might try tunning at 655 then tune at 660 the 665 then 670 to see what the barrel harmonics do for 100yrd groups, we've found tunes that produced better and worse groups about every 25 to 30 fps😁
You are definitely a cheater. You are cheating with your knowledge and skill as a shooter. Great videos!!! Best tuning video I've seen but I'm sure you will improve it in the future.
You are the M3 .177 MASTER😮
Well done ✔️
Thank you so much buddy 😃
@@VikingAirgunnerHej igen Peter. Undrar vilken rack du har under flaskan då jag skall göra som du med kolfiberrör och kronograf. Är det en Sabre eller ?
Och Tusen Tack för dina lärorika videor. Längtar efter nästa. I veckan hoppas jag min M3 kommer cal.177/licens.
Ha en skön o trevlig söndag
/Rolf
@@rolf-erikhafgren1616 Hej Rolf
Det er en Saber Tactical Arca swiss rail, og den passer perfekt til opsætningen med chronografen.
@@rolf-erikhafgren1616 Næste video kommer forhåbentlig om 14 dage og er om min nye Panthera 😃
@@VikingAirgunner Tusen Tack för den infon. Du är TOPPEN Peter. God fortsättning med dina video
/Rolf
That group, though! As always, excellent video with clearly explained methods and the logic behind them. Thank you, Peter!
Thank you Felix 🙂
Wonderful, shooting Peter, and I think your calculations are great, for your groups are excellent
Great instructions. As I understand it, by using the front screw to reduce the velocity as a final step, you are getting rid of the excess air, which will cause turbulence on the back side of the slug or pellet. Thanks
Exactly! 🙂
And it gives a more harmonic gun= better accuracy and consistancy 🤓
@@VikingAirgunner and efficiency!
Excellent video Peter thanks for sharing. Another trick I find is not to set the plenum pressure too low. I set it at ca. 90 bar to reduce the violence in the system, but in my Mk2 - it needs to be ca 120 in order to seal effectively and consistently (even though I don’t need more than 90 bar to achieve the velocity I’m after). Looking forward to your next video
There are more then one way to do things, this is one way. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Nice shooting… Thanks for the real time education on the Fx impact 😎
You are welcome 🙂
Thanks for watching 🙂
Very amazing idea to control the last 15-20 fps through the valve knob. Keep going mate you are doing very well.
Thank you Mustafa🙂
It really improves the overall consistancy of the gun 😎
Very good explanation and awesome shooting at those ranges.
Thanks Peter 🙂
hey brother you are so professional . the videos you make is realy helpful and help us alot..thank you and keep going
Thanks you have been a huge help, thanks Peter
You are very welcome 🙂
Great instructional video. Don’t worry about the people saying you’re a cheat. They’re the ones that probably cheat all the time ABF because they cheat, the thing everyone else cheats. Keep up te great videos.
I believe you are spot on mate 😃
I do exactly this but I go one step further. When you turn in the valve adjuster you are essentially creating a back stop limiting how far the valve opens. Remember when you use that to cut the velocity you are still using a hammer spring tension creating a strike that is just as hard as the one that created the 20 fps more before you turned in the valve adjuster. IE you have more hammer strike at this point than you need. So after cutting velocity with the valve adjuster I start turning down the hammer spring 2 micro clicks at a time (why the m3 tuning system is so superior) until the velocity goes down just a bit. Once that happens I give it two clicks back up and leave it. You will be surprised how much you can actually reduce that hammer tension and keep the same velocity. Does it ultimately make a huge difference 🤷♂️🤷♂️. I just figure it is best to work the gun no harder than necessary.
Thanks for your insight Pat 👍👍👍
That is another way of doing it but ultimately it ends up in the same tune as I show in my other tuning video? 🤔
@@VikingAirgunner Yes you end up in the same spot. The only difference is you are easing up on how hard the hammer is hitting the valve and the valve that rubber ball in the adjuster.
Thank you for sharing and good shooting!
good shooting peter ,with that small caliber . respect
Thanks buddy 🙂
Excelente!!!!
Excelent Boos
Thanks buddy 🤗😎
Hello, how are you? Let me introduce myself. We are from Argentina, Halcón Airguns, and we have been testing configurations for our M3 for a long time. We tried this method, but perhaps because of the changing climate, this method makes the rifle inconsistent. We discovered that the method is almost the same, but we are closer to setting the regulator!! First, we find out the maximum velocity that the rifle gives us through the hammer in that setting, and once we have found it, we try to make it 30 fps more than the velocity we want to make sure that the hammer will always open the valve in the same way, because due to temperature changes, the valve does not always open in the same way!!! If we lower the hammer so many points to lower the speed, we get inconsistent spread, instead of lowering the hammer so much, it gave us more results to lower the setting a little more!! And the maximum speed, which would be 30 fps more, there is working with the front valve!! Thank you very much for your contributions, they are very important for all users of these rifles. A big hug from Argentina, Halcón Airguns
Thank you so much!
Bel video! grazie delle informazioni che condividi, ti seguo con piacere!
Is there a video on yt that shows how to tune the Dynamic/Panthera in as much clear to understand detail? This video is clear and precise. 👍🏼
Thank you so much for your comment 🙂
I really want to make a video on how to tune the Panthera, but the general inconsistancy of the gun makes it really difficult 😪
Im currently considering a Huma regulator that might very well be the answer. So there just might be a tuning video in the horizon 🤗
Great video, I used to tune I think is an old way , where first I will open the valve full open then power wheel on maximum power (16) . Then I will start shoot and increase the spring tension clicks until the speed will not increase any more. Next step I will turn the valve wheel to close by about 1/4 turn each time until the speed start to drop then ,then return ( open ) just about 1/4 to the to get that high speed .the third step is to shoot at each power wheel (example start from 8 , until 16) at each power I will make a group of five shots to find a best group which i will use to shoot at .
But I think your new way it seems to me it will be better to try , because I think you tune valve at wanted speed so you will have No waste extra air which might cause inaccurate .
I will try your way I hope for better results.
Question: why you start by finding maximum speed then you go back to set the power wheel to the wanted speed + 20-30fps?, why you didn’t go to direct to find the wanted speed +20-30?
Thanks for good video.
There are many methods and thank you for sharing yours 🙂
Right or wrong is only determined by accuracy 😎
The way I tune is to get better harmonics. If it is 1010 max - turn down 20 and the rest by the front valve adjuster. Or it is other values is free for anyone to interpet. Again - whatever works is good 😎
I like this way since it eliminated the slow and low in the first attempts, and of cause the super feel and accuracy 🙂
I have try your way it seems to be good .
I wanted a velocity of 950fps , I have checked the maximum speed is 970fps .
So I have adjusts the hammer power wheel and clicks to 970fps.and then the valve adjuster to 950fps.
As you can see I have adjusted hammer spring to my maximum speed, is this correct? Or do you think if I raise the 2nd air regulator little more to be above 970fps example 990 or more. Will this improve the consistency Results? I think I will try that.
@@mytube3687 Now that you have the gun set, try to adjust it down from the max at 970 by using the front valve adjuster. If it doesnt work give the 2nd reg a bit more and adjust it down by both hammer and front valve adjuster 🙂
I think I got the problem, because even at around 20m or 30m it was impossible to shoot one hole .Then I checked if there’s any screw loose or my scope every thing was perfect then I checked the barrel and found that the o rings fitted on the liner were moved almost at the end of the barrel so I fitted extra o rings total about 8 and fitted back carefully with electrical insulation tape to hold them on place.i am happy now I can shoot a hole at 30m , now remaining I will check at 100m accuracy.
have you done anything to your gun liner to reduce vibration for better accuracy?
@@mytube3687 Great that you are getting some better groups!
Consider the carbon fiber barrel sleeve instead of the orings 👍👍
It would be great if i knew if you were shooting pellets or slugs,? Im guessing .177 but maybe. 22, ? What brand?. I did eventually learn that the range was 100m but it was only later.
I like your videos and the research you do.
Neil. Impact 5:09 .25 600mm mk2.
Thank you Neil 🙂
Im shooting the 16 gr Zan in 177. Thanks for reminding me and thanks for sharing 🤗
Excelent groups 🇵🇹👍
Thanks man 🙂
Excelente grupo parabéns 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 Fx impact e fantástico!!!
Thank you
Lot of informations to learn on Steve’s channel but some pros use the front valve, some not…. Some pros delete the front reg and get good precision and constitency.. but happy that you find a way that your m3 get it right 👌 happy shooting 😉
I think the valve adjuster is gold. In my opinion it allows the m3 to maintain more consistency in velocity across a broader range than say a Maverick. The m3 will maintain velocity consistencies further below the optimal spot for a given reg pressure than say a Maverick will. At least that has been my experience and I believe the valve limiter is key in this.
Great video Peter. I agree, so much BS out there regarding grouping, even with the so called pros, one tried to say it was 100yds, but when he walked it he only took 75 steps & a Jack Russell dog had a bigger stride, it was closer to 50. Me, I use a scope with built-in RF so it's clear & i do sub moa with ease. My last was 13 shots 120yds in 10mph + winds. I shoot golf balls at 110yds 12/12 in strong winds & it's all on video where it's proven. When I hunt I say where I will hit the target before I take the shot, even at 150+yds & yes in the wind also. I train & practice in the wind every day. One thing I don't do is get caught up with numbers when tuning, my current tune is 10fps SD & it has precision accuracy. Low numbers do not mean precision accuracy, it just means consistent numbers. What matters is consistent precision accuracy 🙂
Thanks for your comment buddy 🙂
Nice to get an insight in peoples experiences.
I hope that other viewers will read your post aswell 🤗
Best regards 🙂
Tal cual lo escribe es . Justo como lo a escrito felicidades
Going to give this a shot thank you for sharing. My rifle suffers from the first shot low and slow and I absolutely cannot stand it. Having to waste a shot to get the velocity back up really gets on my nerves. I have super cheap PCP rifles that never have this problem.
It is absolutely frustrating and I hope that you will solve the problem by using this method.
Another method is the hillbilly way where you just dry fire a couple of times before shooting - but its still not what you want...
I have a Maverick that I have tuned just under 1 MOA at 100, but I want an impact just for that additional valve adjustment.
Merci
very clear explanation!! Btw, can you shoot fac in Denmark without permit? Only on your own property or also in the woods?
Here in The Netherlands everyone can buy fac rifle without background check or permit.
Hi very informative video, curious to know as how to apply the same settings in maverick as there is no front valve thanx
This way of tuning is only for the Impact, so I will recommend you to use the method that Im showing in my other tuning video 🙂
Thanx I shall await for the other video ,when is it scheduled ?
@@ashishchoudhary269 It was released a few months ago, and you can find it here on my TH-cam channel 🙂
Greetings from Brazil! Congratulations on your videos, I have learned a lot from them. I would like to know the caliber you used, the weight of the projectile, and whether it was a pellet or a slug?
Hi Carlos
Thank you so much for your positive comment. Comments like yours is the whole reason Im doing this 👍👍
Im always shooting 177. Gun laws in Denmark requires a licence if you want to use the bigger calibers.
I prefer slugs since the ballistic coeficient is superior to pellets, and with my passion is mainly for the longer distances it makes sense.
My much prefered slug in the heavy liner is the 16 gr Zan 🙂
Best regards
Peter
Thank you very much for answering my questions, hugs.
Hello Peter, very good video. What is your tolerance range to consider a good spread?
Hi Ronald,
I would consider a spread of 3-4 to be fantastic. 7 is good but above this I will start to focus on getting it down. But sometimes I do focus too much on the spread. Did shoot a 2,1 cm group at 100 m with a 17 fps spread, but the consistancy was not good.
Great instructions Peter. I have seen guys maxing out pw and hst and then reduce it a bit..what's your thoughts on this. I don't like it..
Also I can i achieve a desired fps wd 2 settings;
1. High reg pressure and moderate hammer strike
2. Low reg pressure and high hammer strike
I believe that high reg pressure will shut the valve quickly and will avoid extra air..?
Thank you 🙂
I have two ways of tuning and have had good experience with both. First method is the one in this video and the other is the method in my earlier tuning video.
I will recommend you to watch both videos and then you will know my prefered methodes 🙂
Just bought a 25 Cal M3 sniper.can you recommend a pellet and a slug please.learning about my FX throw your video
I dont have any experience personally with 25 cal, but if I was in your situation I would go for Zan slugs.
I cant say wich weight, but I would choose a medium weight - so not the lightest and not the heaviest.
Is this tuning applicable on all pellets and slug?
I have not tried on pellets, but give it a go 😎
Where do you start with your hammer tension? About mid range?
Yes that will do. 🙂
Great video Peter! This helps a lot. My problem though is that when following the instructions my speeds are still all over the place. I shoot with the 28gr ZAN slugs in .22. In essence I think the steps are the same but I don’t see a consistent downgrade of speed when turning down the hammer. Sometimes it’s 920 but the next moment 940 again. What are your starting settings? Or is there anybody in the chat that may have the solution for me?
My 2nd reg is at 120. Aiming speed is 930. I ended up at macro on 8 and micro around 4. Valve is touching the 4th line. Any help is welcome. Just looking for consistency
I cant say that Im an expert in 22, so I can only give you some general advise.
Usually spread issues comes from the regulator, so a lube and polishing the springs could be a place to start.
Secondly you could try some diffent types of ammo. Sizes, brands and weights.
I dont start any particular place when I start tuning, but usually very low so I know that I just have to turn up the reg.
I hope that you will solve this issue 🤞🤞🤞🤞
Best regards
Peter
Ohh and try different velocities. I see that many are shooting the 22 closer to 1000 fps. Might do something to the spread.
Much more to the point than other tuning video's thanks. Hey do you know a good place to order online FX parts in Europe ? I have a friend in Italy who can ship them to me we having nothing in Australia so hard to find and you need to wait for ever.
Check out Europe Airguns and Krale. Those two places will cover almost everything 🙂
Europe Airguns has the standard parts and Krale the special parts and will usually have new parts as the first👍
@@VikingAirgunner Thanks for your help love your vids keep them coming. Just wish you had a .22 same as me.
That's the perfect way of tuning. Awesome. Any modifications on your regulators ?
Agree! I really like it.
Yes I have the brass piston. I made a video about it a while ago. You can find it on my channel 👍👍
@@VikingAirgunner i also have the brass ones. You have the original stack washers or it's modified?
@@nickch96 Original stacking 👍
@@VikingAirgunner one last question i have is what valve spring you use the soft one or the stronger one ?
@@nickch96 Just standard 🙂 Tried the soft one and it made the velocity drop - Im no expert on this mod, but I dont really think that it is nessecary for 177 🤔
Hallo peter, I always watch Your Tunnning VIdeo,.
i have question, how many Consume for 1 Shoot,. Or How Many Consume for 10 Shoot (remaining gas in the cylinder)
And How many Shoot and you will Clean your barrel ?
Thanks Before,.. :)
I answered this in my latest video, so take a look at that.
Remember that it has to do with the volume of air you have available. 1x480 cc or example 1x580 cc.
I never clean my barrels - or I might do it if I cant find accuracy. But it has never made any difference.
@@VikingAirgunner Thanks peter,.
I waithing, your tunning for high Power more than 1000 FPS. 20grain... cal .177
If possible,. What do You think ???
@@sniperrimba69 Check my channel. Its all ready there 😉
@@VikingAirgunner Please send link,..
So you have to find the absolute Max velocity of that regulator setting and then bring it down 30 with the macro micro then the last 20 with the valve adjuster knob am I following you Peter?
Spot on! That was the way I choose to do it, but the combi can be done differently. 30 and aprox 20 did it for me 🙂
Final tuning is then done ok the front valve adjuster
@@VikingAirgunner awesome possum! Thank you 😊
So then is there much need for the micro wheel then?
Im not using it anymore 🙂
Hi
I have a wildcat MK3 .177 cylinder which as no valve adjustment only hammer and the micro adjust under hammer, how do i set it up to get a low FPS spread if possible. thanks
Hi Sean
I had the same gun and I cant really say that I became an expert, but I found that the reg preasure was important. So not to low so that you shoot a max velocity vs reg. And defenately not to high reg. It will give you a high spread and some hige jumps when tuning the power wheel.
So maybe try to have the max velocity at 20-30 fps higher than your desired velocity and then turn it down using the power wheel.
Sorry I cant be more helpfull mate 😯
Thanks for reply.@@VikingAirgunner
So if you shooting a certain weight pellet here in the uk we are governed by being sub 12 ft/lbs so we would know the fps we need but how do you know what reg pressure to start on?
Im not an expert on sub 12, but you will just have to start low and raise the reg untill you get the max that you are looking for 🙂
@@VikingAirgunner thanks bud. It’s consistency I’m looking for.
@@Pauldwesley Arent we all mate 😃
@@VikingAirgunner that’s the fun.
the weight of the pellet is important , the pellet thats gets it over 12ftlbs is making the gun illegal , and the police will use that .does not matter if you dont even have those pellets ,
speed x speed x half pellet weight gives the energy , meters x meters x grams gives joule s 16 joule is 12 ftlbs ,most regs setting in the uk starts with 60 bar but can be more depends on hammer, transfer port and valve openiing
So If my fx m3 is standard I would have to adjust hammer wheel and the micro adjuster so that it shoots around 1111 fps then drop hammer wheel down to 980 fps then turn valve adjuster until it gets to 960fps. Why don’t you adjust micro adjuster as well?
Im sure that you mean 1011 and not 1111 fps? 😉
But yes thats right. And with this method of tuning the quick tune system is not nessecary. But then again some say that they still use it while tuning like this. Not sure how and why though 🤔
Yes sorry about te 1111 typing error
Panthera tuning guide please 😊
Actually I have a Panthera right here, but Im experiencing some issues that I cant really make out, but as soon as it has been fixed, I will SPAM you with Panthera videos 😀
I would Love to see it mate 🍺🍺🍺
Thank you so much for this clear explanation, I was stuck with my m3.
I have a .22 500mm barrel and I was tuning it for 960fps. I opened the valve all the way and then turn up the hammer tension till the fps drops again and then turn the tension back a little. Then I wind the valve in till the pressure dropped and opened it a little bit again. But my accuracy was not good, allready had a spread of 1-1.25cm at 30 meters. So I’m gonna try to tune it like you do and hopefully it will sort everything out because I’m getting really frustrated. So bad that I’m thinking to buy a Panthera but that needs to be tuned as well 😂
Im glad that you liked the video🙂
To make this way of tuning work for you its best to the different settings. Im sure that you will figure it out 😎
Hi Peter !
Got a Cal .22 Sniper M3, shooting 18 grain JSB Pellets and executed your tuning method but again same problem:
Gun 1 hour or longer not in use, no changes and constantly 100 bar pressure in 2nd Reg, but first shot low speed (925 ft/s) then increasing with further 4-5 shots to desired constant 970 ft/s.
This is not acceptable for hunting use.
Any Ideas what causes this (non logical) problem?
Sounds very strange and frustrating. Usually the drop in velocity is due to a little creep - reg preasure increasing in the rest period.
When you shoot the gun does gauge drop - and by how much? How long before it stabilizes?
What is the difference between your 1st and 2nd reg?
@@VikingAirgunner Sekhmet constantly is 100bar on Reg2. Besides, if Reg Creepin first shot would be high, but is low speed
@@emmerichweinlich1057 No it is the oposite. Watch my latest video about the Huma reg in my Panthera for the explanaition 🙂
I want to help you with the issue and in order to do so I need some info. And the questions I asked are to get a better picture.
Thank you Peter,
The Reg2 pressure does not drop after shot, always stable at 100 bar, no delay, First Reg is 150 bar
@@VikingAirgunner
Gun over night today. First shot 40ft/s low !!
Bro you dont have to prove to anyone that you are shooting at 100. Thank you for helping us with your advices. I wanted to ask you, why do you set 960 fps as a point of velocity. Why dont you keep on going up until the gun tells you. I am surrounded by you know that there is a point where velocity pauses then you have to push it up like 4-5 points so it will go up. I guess because it’s a slug right?! Thank you again…
Thank you so much 🙂 I do my best to show my results and be honest. So very happy that it is appreciated 🙂
Im not sure exactly what you mean by the velocity. Can you perhaps rephrase so I can give you the best answer 🤗
To your experient what is the best speed for Zan 13gr on 0.177 caliber? I am currently shouting at 978-980
I think that you are close to what I would shoot. My suggestion would be 970-985 fps.
But then again Im slowing down a bit hitting 960 fps with the 16 gr as you saw in this video. So that would be an interesting experiment 🤓
@@VikingAirgunner I am still having a lot of trouble tuning my gun. Especially settling at a certain speed. My problem started when i installed the High Flow Pin Probe. Have you ever used this with 13gr slugs (ZAN or JSB). Any suggestions for the setup?
@@panicosshiouftas3339 Have you tried changing back to the pellet probe? Not that I usually recommend a pellet probe for slugs, but just might help.
Apart from that a cleaning if the barrel can help sometimes.
Have you tried tuning as I suggest in this video and in my other tuning video?
Hej. Fin video 👍🏼
Håber du kan hjælpe mig i den rigtige retning.
Jeg kigger på en mk3 i en .22 men hvilken løbslængde skal jeg gå efter. Hvor meget for men mere i en 700mm ?
Jeg vil gerne kunne skyde lidt krager gerne på 200-150 m.
Og så mål skydning på samme afstand.
Tak for det.
I din situation ville jeg gå efter en 700 mm heavy liner, da du vil få meget mere ud af at skyde med slugs i forhold til almindelige hagl.
Sammenligner du 600 mm med 700 mm kan du skyde med en del lavere tryk på regulatoren og dermed et mere harmonisk gevær. Man kan også få 800 mm, men da man ikke rigtigt ser nogen bruge det, fortæller det mig mellem linjerne, at den ikke er så fantastisk.
@@VikingAirgunner tak for svar... det var det jeg ville vide.
Jeg må tømme sparregrisen og se at få bestilt.
Jeg glæder mig til flere oplysende videoer fra dig af. 👍🏼
Et spørgsmål mere. Hvilken butik er skarp på FX ? Jeg skal bruge et kit til slugs, bare så jeg får det rigtige med det samme ?
@@kpallisgaard Enten Krale eller så snak med Kristian hos Arms Gallery i København 🙂
What weight Zans are they?
16 gr 😎
When do think the m4 will be out
Well some say that the M3 is the final version of the Impact, but the guy from FX USA had the same question and he didnt say that it was not comming 🤔
He said that it was not anytime soon bcs of all the fuzz about the Dynamic block and the different versions being released on that platform.
So my guess - and it is only guessing - is that we will see a successor to the M3 in about a year. So if it will be called the M4 or not, that we will have to see 🙂
Thanks for answering me I have been wondering 🤔
It's just that I just got an m3,and noing my luck they will bring one out next week lol 😆
@@johndanville6643 The Wildcat MK3 BT came out a week after I got my Wildcat MK3, so I know the feeling 😂
You might try tunning at 655 then tune at 660 the 665 then 670 to see what the barrel harmonics do for 100yrd groups, we've found tunes that produced better and worse groups about every 25 to 30 fps😁
a barrel weight can help here
1012 fps with your reg at 115 bar is amazing i dont think my MK2 can do that with the reg at 200 bar.
Well if you install a 700 mm liner, dual hole transfer port from Huma and a pin probe, Im sure that you will get pretty close 🙂
Hi! Can you review call 25 pallet
Im only shooting 177 🙂
@@VikingAirgunnerplz!
@@Bobaonam we are limited by law, so there is not much to do about it 😳
Thank you
@@VikingAirgunnerhow much pellet call 25 bar? Thank you
👍👍👍
Hello Mr. Peter can you speak arabic
La 😃
Are you shooting slugs? Perhaps you said and I missed it.
Im not sure that I mentioned it, but I am shooting 16 gr Zan slugs 🙂
You are definitely a cheater. You are cheating with your knowledge and skill as a shooter. Great videos!!! Best tuning video I've seen but I'm sure you will improve it in the future.
Ahh thanks buddy 😃