There are no words, I declare, that can describe our "Mr Peter Parfitt's" work than to say... "ABSOLUTELY BRILLIANT!" It is a pleasure to watch this genius from Heaven teach us what should be done; IF one wants to make a project that will last and last; without one iota of what we are likely do experience if we have to hire the typical carpenters to do it. Sad but true.
Thank you Peter. We love you kind Sir. May Jesus bless you and yours always.
Hi Rodger, That was filmed with an iPhone. I wish I had the main camera available as the sound system would have captured that wonderful sound which goes with the action. Cheers. Peter
Brilliant tip Peter at 20:20. You'd be amazed how many people don't understand routing direction. I was taught "inside of the clock the hands move clockwise, so routing internally is the same and ergo, outside is anti clockwise." love the clarification tnough, that you want material to your right whilst pulling the router towards you 👏👏👏 Quality work and tips as always.
Lovely work Peter. I just spent the last couple of weeks building a door frame for an existing external door and hanging, with old wood from my in-laws garage. I used hand tools mainly, for exercise, and every day the wood had twisted back and forth. I wish I'd seen this video first and just bought timber and made my own door, as yours looks fantastic.
Many thanks Rico. This door was quite simple but the barn doors that I made a few years ago were a real challenge as they were 12 feet high with a diagonal top rail - and in the days before I bought my first Domino machine. Cheers. Peter
Hi, Peter! I have that exact Jet JJP12HH. Wonderful machine. Glad I got the helical head. Not only a better cut but much quieter! I'm also going to be building a couple of cedar gates to replace the existing ones in my fence since they are falling apart. You gave me a great idea to use the Mafell duo-doweler with 100mm x 12mm dowels to built the frame. Having that bit of kit is like owning both of the domino machines in one as I can go from 3mm up to 12mm dowels. Excellent build and video, as usual!
Brilliant , and gives me a little confidence to tackle replacing my cedar wood double door in my dilapidated summerhouse. A domino cutter is a first step i think from Axminster - thankyou very much much appreciated
Hi Paul, By not buying new ready made doors or employing someone to fix this you will pay for all of the tools that you need - that is how I have justified my tool collection and not looked back. Cheers. Peter
Hello Peter, I rather feel this is a little more than 'Ledged & Braced', but rather a Framed, Ledged & Braced construction. Absolutely loving the project as, quite serendipitously, I currently happen to be making my own garden shed - what a great lockdown project (forgiving the delivery lead-times). All the best, Hayden
Hi Hayden, The only problem with lock down projects is the ability to get materials. I can do mail order to Axminster and some of the other places but when I needed cement and ready mix in the early stages it was a nightmare. Cheers. Peter
Hi Paul, Thank you - I have no idea why someone watches a video only to give a thumbs down - surely they can just not bother watching in the first place ! Cheers. Peter
Marvelous as always, Peter. I love the pace at which you work. That tip about router direction for inside/outside was gold and might stop me being so afraid of it.
Hi Frank, Nobody ever taught me that and it is not obvious from most manuals (certainly Festool ones). I met a chap at a woodworking show years ago and he had his hand bandaged because he had fed a piece of wood into his router table the wrong way and it zoomed in and he was cut before he could take his hand away. Cheers. Peter
This series is really nice. I absolutely love your presentation style. And it is also great to see you emphasizing where you need good accuracy, and where you don't. I really learn a lot from watching your videos.
Watching the glue up reminded me of the number of times I wished I was in possession of three arms! lol. Yet another enjoyable watch Peter, thanks for sharing it.
Dear Peter, it's always a pleasure to follow your videos that always teach you something new, with the calmness and elegance that distinguish you (Fabio from Italy)
Nice work! I have a shed door that needs to be rebuilt and this gives me some ideas. I'll probably do pocket holes or half lap joints to make it easier.
I always like Mr Parfitt’s video lessons. He’s a bit like the woodwork teacher you never had, explains everything in a straightforward way, and never makes you feel useless. However, he does make me feel poor. His workshop is expensively fitted out to the nth degree. For example, how does he make sure his timber yard 4x2s are not only PAR but SAR (squared all round)? He puts them through his thicknesser. In another video he talks about his little table saw, made by Festool. “Look out for one on eBay”, he says cheerfully. New, they cost a few thousand pounds. How can someone like me make a door for my garden shed to the same standard as his, with a few second-hand bits of power kit and my dad’s old hand tools? I still enjoyed the lesson though!
Perhaps I can give you some advice which may help you buy some better tools. I started working for money 60 years ago. For the first 10 or so years when I had a full time job I also worked 5 or 6 sessions a week behind a bar. I did other work in my spare time, cutting grass and hedges, repairing fences and digging gardens. My wife also had a full time job but looked after old people at weekends or did cleaning work. We worked through almost all of our holidays in the early years. We did not waste money on smoking, drinking, subscription TV and even now have never bought a new mobile phone. In recent years we have been able to enjoy the results of all of this. We would often cycle to Poole Harbour and sit and eat our sandwiches looking across the water at the super yachts. We would imagine what it would be like to go aboard one but would never feel jealous of the owners or their success in life. I respect people for what they have achieved because success rarely comes without a lot of effort. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop Thank you for that advice. Sadly, it won’t work for me - it comes too late. I suspect we are of similar vintage, for I began to earn my living almost as many years ago as you. I began working life as an apprentice cabinet maker in the mid-60s, but was just not good enough to make the grade. Since that time I followed a different path, one that satisfied my curiosity and allowed me to live in relative comfort, but didn’t put money in the bank. Woodworking has been a pastime, not a profession. Most of my tools I inherited in good condition, and I’ve maintained them in that condition. They serve me well in the tasks I set them. So as to lead to consistency (for instance when I make a series of items for gifts, say) I’ve invested in a couple of mid-range power tools. But on a state pension, that is about as much as my pastime can afford. I’m sorry, Mr Parfitt, that you seem to have misinterpreted my comment; at any rate I believe you mistook my mixture of admiration and rueful envy for
Very enjoyable and informative as always. However I must say I had a good chuckle when you - a man who has a workshop kitted out to a level I would die for - savoured the huge economy you must have made by mixing a bit of Ronseal and Sadolin ;) hehe. Keep up the fantastic work and spend your savings wisely! :) Best wishes from Warsaw, Poland
Hi Philip, I was dreading the glue-up but it was far easier than I had imagined. I do not usually have to go to much effort to adjust for square at the end of a glue-up. I did this time but it was easier when I clamped one side of the frame. Cheers. Peter
Thank you for this great video, Peter. I now know what I need to do to make some new garage doors. I hope the technique will work for a width of just under 1.25 metres. Just a pity domino machines are so expensive. Ah well, floating tenons here we come!
Hi Brendan, Your width will be fine but try to beef up the top rail if you can and do not reduce the width of the other rails (mine are about 130 mm wide). Yes, the next best thing to the Domino is a technique to make accurate floating tenon joints with a router. It will take 3 times as long though. Good luck. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop I have had success with 10mm dowels that are about 40mm long. They make a strong joint and I am surprised you would suggest screwing through the stile rather than use dowels for those of us not in the Festool budget echelon.
@@NewBritWorkshop That was not my point. You mentioned dominos, mortice and tenon and screwing through the stile. I just think dowels are often ignored. Never mind.
I love your videos. Learning something new every day is great. Festool should hire you out to do their Instructional videos!!! If you don't mine, when you do a video, could you please leave us a list of products that you use. I don't care where you got them, I'll find that part out, I just would like to know just what you used, stain, clumps, t-track ......etc. Thank you, still great video
Great work Peter ,but I bet the perfectionist in you wishes that you had built the door before the frame .That way you could have eliminated the t&g board you had to rip down . keep up the good work.
Hi John, I had drawn my plan in a professional drawing package and made a conscious decision to have the door at the width I wanted (to get the mower in and out). Good suggestion though - thanks. Peter
Wonderfully clear video thank you Do you think using dominoes for external joinery will stand the test of time? What if the glue fails? It's a question I have asked myself a lot. I can't quite bring myself to try it out .
Hi Sam, I have every confidence that this door will last for a very long time. The glue is unlikely to fail as long as the door does not start to stick in its frame - prompt remedial action will prevent this putting any strain on the glued joints. If one uses Cascamite glue the chance of glue failure reduces as it is waterproof. Peter
Peter have you seen the Makita DPT353Z 23g headless pin gun. It takes 15mm to 35mm pins. For light and hidden work. 18v battery so no compressor or electric. Easy for outside, garden work. Love this door project. 😊👍🏻. What router bit did you use to cut out the hinges free hand?
New Brit Workshop I have the OF1010 as well, it is a great little router. Sorry, I meant the actual router cutter bit? The way it cut the hinges out looked smooth and easy without any jig or template. Cheers
Great timing. I've been planning on changing my workshop doors. I'll be using this as a guide but I'm going to try and get a window in the top of mine. Could you share the stock dimensions of your rails and styles please?
Hi Chris, The stiles and top rail are 40 mm x 92 mm finished size. The intermediate rails and braces are 20 mm x 130 mm finished size. These could be just 110 mm wide. Good luck. Peter
Great series, if anything I wish it was more in-depth. With regards to the door I've just one question, is there any concerns with the cut edges of the tongue-and-groove being exposed at the bottom of the door? Thanks!
The exposed end at the bottom is not an issue as any moisture will drain downwards. It is a good idea to protect an upper exposed end which I did by applying the outdoor oil to that area. Many thanks for your support. Peter
Hi Stuart, I am a touch arthritic and moving from planing to thicknessing is less demanding (for me) with the Jet machine. I have explained this to Axminster and they understand the advantage of a single lift change. Cheers. Peter
Looks awesome, what type of wood did you use? And what size were smaller dominos? Also what do you use for dust extraction on your planer/thicknesses? Thx Jim
Hi Jim, I used normal planed all round soft wood from the timber merchant. The smaller dominos are 6 x 4 mm (see that at about 9 mins 30 secs). I use my aged Numatic NVD 750 connected to the planer via an Axminster 4" Cyclone (product code 105872) with the dust dropping into a plastic dustbin that I use as a drop box. Peter
Actually it’s a framed ledge and brace door A ledge and braced door dosent have a head or styles Also I would have routed a channel in the head and styles and loosely fitted the tg&v boards to accommodate expansion. That aside I do like how accurately you work
billywhizz101 on external doors yes to allow rain to run off the door When this pattern of door is made for internal use it’s optional to have a full depth rail or as in the gate example Pete made a rail set behind the boarding
Fascinating video. It is something I would never do but it is interesting watching someone else do it. One thought, when you saw your error about not making the domino holes, did you think about using pocket holes, or do I have to put another £1 in the "Swear Box"?
Hi Robert, I love it - i think my swear box got filled up years ago ! I will never use pocket hole joints. I hate them. However, I have every respect for those that use them and are able to produce an accurate result. I have tried them and found it difficult to stop the relative movement between the two parts as the screw is going in at an angle which puts a horizontal component of the force across the joint. Cheers. Peter
New Brit Workshop Peter I agree with you about the pocket hole screws.... for the most part. I will use them on a door (a barn or shed door. Not on cabinet doors) or something where I can’t hid the pocket holes but I first use my domino machine, make my pocket holes, glue the dominos and everything together and clamp it then use the pocket screws to replace the clamps. I really only use them if I am running low on clamps or doing a big project and can’t commit to using that many clamps. But I rarely get that low on clamps.... Ron
Hi Peter Two thoughts. Why 4 hinges, wouldn't 3 have done for this door? Second why didn't you buy swan timber and save the cost of machining since you were going to do it anyway? Nice door! PS Did you see the interesting video about the new roofing square? Amazing value for £75 I thought.
Hi Michael, I have four hinges for added strength and security. I am having trouble finding timber suppliers with the range of stock that I need and so I had to buy what was available. Take care. Peter
Hi Paul, It is a webbing strap from an old bag. It is about 700 mm long and has a clip at each end. I wrapped it around the hose twice and it helps to keep it out of the way and also the webbing spreads the load unlike rope that would damage the hose. Peter
Your dominos shouldn't be that tight. They've probably expanded over time through absorbing moisture. A minute or so blast in the microwave would dry them out a little and shrink them to a point where still snug, but not too stiff when inserting into the mortices.
I have picked up all of my knowledge over many years and it is far from perfect. The key thing is always to make it a dash stronger than you think necessary and put a lot of effort into the roof as it is always the roof that looks bad first on old sheds. Cheers. Peter
The biggest problem I have with a large domino glue up is that by the time I have the gluing done and before clamping the glue has begun to setup. I have used Titebond II Extend but that doesn't extend glue working time long enough. Living in Texas my garage it normally very warm which cuts down glue working time. Any suggestions?
I have been working in 30 degree C and have no problems with normal Titebond II. You should have 20 minutes to get the clamping done and if it is taking longer look at your glue-up plan rather than the glue itself. Alternatively try Cascamite which has a much longer dwell time. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop, Thank you for your suggestion of Cascamite. The other thing you mentioned in your video was to pre glue the dominos in the members. Like the strategy you mention at about 15:30 and that does speed up the assembly time. You must be careful to wipe off all the squeeze-out pre glue the dominos. I didn't see any glue squeeze-out in your video. I'm going to search your videos to see if you demonstrate your domino gluing technique.
Yes, 4 x 2 for the stiles and top rail. The middle rail and bottom rail were about 1" x 8" in order to give room in front for the tongue and groove. The braces were about 1" x 6". Peter
Hi Graeme, I have done in the past but with T&G the drips need to run off, even from the V grooves. So, I think it better to let the rain water drain straight down and away. Cheers. Peter
Hi David, The DF500 will do an excellent job. Depending on the thickness of the stiles and top rail you could use four 10 mm x 50 mm dominoes (or is it dominos). Good luck. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop Peter what brand meter do you use? I haven’t been able to convince myself to spend a few $100’s on one. Often I’ll ask the mill to check for me when I buy the wood if I’m concerned
Hi Craig, The wood framing is softwood and will suffer at the same rate as beech so there is no point putting in a more resilient type of domino. Also, the door is such that it will never get soaking wet and may, at worst, suffer at the very bottom. Peter
There are no words, I declare, that can describe our "Mr Peter Parfitt's" work than to say...
"ABSOLUTELY BRILLIANT!"
It is a pleasure to watch this genius from Heaven teach us what should be done; IF one wants to make a project that will last and last; without one iota of what we are likely do experience if we have to hire the typical carpenters to do it. Sad but true.
Thank you Peter. We love you kind Sir. May Jesus bless you and yours always.
Hi Pat, I really do appreciate your kind comments and they certainly lift my spirits. Thank you. Peter
pat dee I absolutely concur!👍🏻
There's something absolutely satisfying about watching a sharp plane removing a nice clean shaving from a timber. Lovely stuff.
Hi Rodger, That was filmed with an iPhone. I wish I had the main camera available as the sound system would have captured that wonderful sound which goes with the action. Cheers. Peter
Just love the calm pace and exact instructions you provide. Thank you for sharing this great video 👍
Your videos are a welcome relief from everything that’s going wrong in the world. Please continue Peter your a true gentleman.
Hi Chris, You are very kind and I will continue to do my best - times are quite tough. I wish you and your family the very best. Peter
This is excellent. Thanks Peter. I need to replace 4 carport shed doors and this is most timely!
Glad it was helpful!
Brilliant tip Peter at 20:20. You'd be amazed how many people don't understand routing direction. I was taught "inside of the clock the hands move clockwise, so routing internally is the same and ergo, outside is anti clockwise."
love the clarification tnough, that you want material to your right whilst pulling the router towards you 👏👏👏
Quality work and tips as always.
Exactly! Many thanks. Peter
Lovely work Peter. I just spent the last couple of weeks building a door frame for an existing external door and hanging, with old wood from my in-laws garage. I used hand tools mainly, for exercise, and every day the wood had twisted back and forth. I wish I'd seen this video first and just bought timber and made my own door, as yours looks fantastic.
Many thanks Rico. This door was quite simple but the barn doors that I made a few years ago were a real challenge as they were 12 feet high with a diagonal top rail - and in the days before I bought my first Domino machine. Cheers. Peter
Hi, Peter! I have that exact Jet JJP12HH. Wonderful machine. Glad I got the helical head. Not only a better cut but much quieter! I'm also going to be building a couple of cedar gates to replace the existing ones in my fence since they are falling apart. You gave me a great idea to use the Mafell duo-doweler with 100mm x 12mm dowels to built the frame. Having that bit of kit is like owning both of the domino machines in one as I can go from 3mm up to 12mm dowels. Excellent build and video, as usual!
Hi Howard, Many thanks. Peter
Brilliant , and gives me a little confidence to tackle replacing my cedar wood double door in my dilapidated summerhouse. A domino cutter is a first step i think from Axminster - thankyou very much much appreciated
Hi Paul, By not buying new ready made doors or employing someone to fix this you will pay for all of the tools that you need - that is how I have justified my tool collection and not looked back. Cheers. Peter
I absolutely love cult pens. Highly recommend.. I’ve bought loads of stationary from them over the years.
Good to know!
Hello Peter, I rather feel this is a little more than 'Ledged & Braced', but rather a Framed, Ledged & Braced construction. Absolutely loving the project as, quite serendipitously, I currently happen to be making my own garden shed - what a great lockdown project (forgiving the delivery lead-times). All the best, Hayden
Hi Hayden, The only problem with lock down projects is the ability to get materials. I can do mail order to Axminster and some of the other places but when I needed cement and ready mix in the early stages it was a nightmare. Cheers. Peter
Watching you work and explain your decisions and methods is a dream... Thanks very much...9 thumbs down, why oh why
Hi Paul, Thank you - I have no idea why someone watches a video only to give a thumbs down - surely they can just not bother watching in the first place ! Cheers. Peter
Marvelous as always, Peter. I love the pace at which you work. That tip about router direction for inside/outside was gold and might stop me being so afraid of it.
Hi Frank, Nobody ever taught me that and it is not obvious from most manuals (certainly Festool ones). I met a chap at a woodworking show years ago and he had his hand bandaged because he had fed a piece of wood into his router table the wrong way and it zoomed in and he was cut before he could take his hand away. Cheers. Peter
This series is really nice. I absolutely love your presentation style. And it is also great to see you emphasizing where you need good accuracy, and where you don't. I really learn a lot from watching your videos.
Thank you so much - feedback like yours really helps. Cheers. Peter
Watching the glue up reminded me of the number of times I wished I was in possession of three arms! lol. Yet another enjoyable watch Peter, thanks for sharing it.
Many thanks. Peter
Dear Peter, it's always a pleasure to follow your videos that always teach you something new, with the calmness and elegance that distinguish you (Fabio from Italy)
Many thanks Fabio. Cheers. Peter
I really enjoyed watching you Mr Peter; God Bless you , Interesting work
Thank you so much. Peter
An excellent and substantial door - thanks for sharing your technique!
Hi Darrel, I certainly do not want to catch my fingers in the door if the wind blows ! Many thanks. Peter
Beautiful door!
Thank you!
peter i love your videos and admire your work thankyou i must also say you are such a nice person who is an example to us all
Hi Fred, You have made my day (and my week). Many thanks. Peter
Nice work! I have a shed door that needs to be rebuilt and this gives me some ideas. I'll probably do pocket holes or half lap joints to make it easier.
Hi Michael, Lap joints will work as will pocket holes but do get a good fit for the cross braces. Cheers. Peter
I got my domino xl today after watching most of your videos so a few failed attempts today but got the hang of it in the end thanks Peter
Keep it up
I always like Mr Parfitt’s video lessons. He’s a bit like the woodwork teacher you never had, explains everything in a straightforward way, and never makes you feel useless. However, he does make me feel poor. His workshop is expensively fitted out to the nth degree. For example, how does he make sure his timber yard 4x2s are not only PAR but SAR (squared all round)? He puts them through his thicknesser. In another video he talks about his little table saw, made by Festool. “Look out for one on eBay”, he says cheerfully. New, they cost a few thousand pounds. How can someone like me make a door for my garden shed to the same standard as his, with a few second-hand bits of power kit and my dad’s old hand tools?
I still enjoyed the lesson though!
Perhaps I can give you some advice which may help you buy some better tools. I started working for money 60 years ago. For the first 10 or so years when I had a full time job I also worked 5 or 6 sessions a week behind a bar. I did other work in my spare time, cutting grass and hedges, repairing fences and digging gardens. My wife also had a full time job but looked after old people at weekends or did cleaning work. We worked through almost all of our holidays in the early years. We did not waste money on smoking, drinking, subscription TV and even now have never bought a new mobile phone. In recent years we have been able to enjoy the results of all of this. We would often cycle to Poole Harbour and sit and eat our sandwiches looking across the water at the super yachts. We would imagine what it would be like to go aboard one but would never feel jealous of the owners or their success in life. I respect people for what they have achieved because success rarely comes without a lot of effort. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop Thank you for that advice. Sadly, it won’t work for me - it comes too late. I suspect we are of similar vintage, for I began to earn my living almost as many years ago as you. I began working life as an apprentice cabinet maker in the mid-60s, but was just not good enough to make the grade. Since that time I followed a different path, one that satisfied my curiosity and allowed me to live in relative comfort, but didn’t put money in the bank. Woodworking has been a pastime, not a profession. Most of my tools I inherited in good condition, and I’ve maintained them in that condition. They serve me well in the tasks I set them. So as to lead to consistency (for instance when I make a series of items for gifts, say) I’ve invested in a couple of mid-range power tools. But on a state pension, that is about as much as my pastime can afford. I’m sorry, Mr Parfitt, that you seem to have misinterpreted my comment; at any rate I believe you mistook my mixture of admiration and rueful envy for
criticism. That’s a pity. It wasn’t meant as such.
Wonderful workmanship and presentation in all of your videos. Great looking door too! :)
Thank you very much!
Thank you for sharing a very interesting video.
Hi Christopher, Many thanks. Peter
Nice vid. I enjoyed that. Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
Very enjoyable and informative as always. However I must say I had a good chuckle when you - a man who has a workshop kitted out to a level I would die for - savoured the huge economy you must have made by mixing a bit of Ronseal and Sadolin ;) hehe. Keep up the fantastic work and spend your savings wisely! :) Best wishes from Warsaw, Poland
Hi Steven, Many thanks and stay safe. Cheers. Peter
Great job Mr Parfitt, have a nice day and Stay Safe !!!.
Thanks, you too!
😊👍
🇬🇧 i love New brit workshop, you is Very good joiner !!! 🏆🏆🏆.
Hi Marcos, You are very kind and many thanks. Peter
Looking really good sir, that glue up was epic 👍
Hi Philip, I was dreading the glue-up but it was far easier than I had imagined. I do not usually have to go to much effort to adjust for square at the end of a glue-up. I did this time but it was easier when I clamped one side of the frame. Cheers. Peter
I saw you using the 1010 router for edging and hinges. I have to say, it was well worth the purchase for my project and business.
Hi Dylan, The OF1010 is a gem. I love it and use it more than any other router. Cheers. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop if you recall, I bought the OF1010 based on your video and advice.
Am I the only one who was about to put down my phone to offer a hand during assembly? 🙂
Nice work as always.
Hi Kristoffer, Perhaps you are too far away ! Cheers. Peter
that is a good installation
Cheers. Peter
Thank you for this great video, Peter. I now know what I need to do to make some new garage doors. I hope the technique will work for a width of just under 1.25 metres. Just a pity domino machines are so expensive. Ah well, floating tenons here we come!
Hi Brendan, Your width will be fine but try to beef up the top rail if you can and do not reduce the width of the other rails (mine are about 130 mm wide). Yes, the next best thing to the Domino is a technique to make accurate floating tenon joints with a router. It will take 3 times as long though. Good luck. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop I have had success with 10mm dowels that are about 40mm long. They make a strong joint and I am surprised you would suggest screwing through the stile rather than use dowels for those of us not in the Festool budget echelon.
@@TR4zest Hi Brian, Which is quicker? This is a utility item and not destined for Buckingham Palace. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop That was not my point. You mentioned dominos, mortice and tenon and screwing through the stile. I just think dowels are often ignored. Never mind.
\this man is a class act!
I love your videos. Learning something new every day is great. Festool should hire you out to do their Instructional videos!!!
If you don't mine, when you do a video, could you please leave us a list of products that you use. I don't care where you got them, I'll find that part out, I just would like to know just what you used, stain, clumps, t-track ......etc. Thank you, still great video
Hi Geoffrey, That list may be tricky to produce - I will investigate. Cheers. Peter
Hi Geoffrey, I have mentioned you in my recent video: th-cam.com/video/LzZvN9aqXZw/w-d-xo.html
Many thanks.
Peter
Not bad eh? Spot on!
Hi Penny, Many thanks. Peter
Great work Peter ,but I bet the perfectionist in you wishes that you had built the door before the frame .That way you could have eliminated the t&g board you had to rip down . keep up the good work.
Hi John, I had drawn my plan in a professional drawing package and made a conscious decision to have the door at the width I wanted (to get the mower in and out). Good suggestion though - thanks. Peter
Wonderfully clear video thank you
Do you think using dominoes for external joinery will stand the test of time? What if the glue fails? It's a question I have asked myself a lot. I can't quite bring myself to try it out .
Hi Sam, I have every confidence that this door will last for a very long time. The glue is unlikely to fail as long as the door does not start to stick in its frame - prompt remedial action will prevent this putting any strain on the glued joints. If one uses Cascamite glue the chance of glue failure reduces as it is waterproof. Peter
Like the video, you’re given me some ideas. I have a question for you, what compressor do you use?
Hi Keith, It is a Swan, oil less from Axminster. The best compressor that I have ever had. Cheers. Peter
Peter have you seen the Makita DPT353Z 23g headless pin gun. It takes 15mm to 35mm pins. For light and hidden work. 18v battery so no compressor or electric. Easy for outside, garden work. Love this door project. 😊👍🏻. What router bit did you use to cut out the hinges free hand?
Hi Jason, No, not seen that Makita but will take a look. I used the Festool OF1010 (a very neat and sweet small router). Cheers. Peter
New Brit Workshop I have the OF1010 as well, it is a great little router. Sorry, I meant the actual router cutter bit? The way it cut the hinges out looked smooth and easy without any jig or template.
Cheers
Hi Jason, It was a 16 mm twin flute on a 1/4" shaft. Peter
New Brit Workshop thanks Peter.
Great video as usual. Any reason why you hung the door to hinge n the right rather than left
Hi Andy, It just makes it easier given the layout of the path nearby. Cheers. Peter
Great timing. I've been planning on changing my workshop doors. I'll be using this as a guide but I'm going to try and get a window in the top of mine.
Could you share the stock dimensions of your rails and styles please?
Hi Chris, The stiles and top rail are 40 mm x 92 mm finished size. The intermediate rails and braces are 20 mm x 130 mm finished size. These could be just 110 mm wide. Good luck. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop thanks Peter!
Great series, if anything I wish it was more in-depth. With regards to the door I've just one question, is there any concerns with the cut edges of the tongue-and-groove being exposed at the bottom of the door? Thanks!
The exposed end at the bottom is not an issue as any moisture will drain downwards. It is a good idea to protect an upper exposed end which I did by applying the outdoor oil to that area. Many thanks for your support. Peter
Very nice! Having just watched the Jet PT unboxing, I was wondering if there was any particular reason you opted for that over the Axminster Spiral?
Hi Stuart, I am a touch arthritic and moving from planing to thicknessing is less demanding (for me) with the Jet machine. I have explained this to Axminster and they understand the advantage of a single lift change. Cheers. Peter
Looks awesome, what type of wood did you use? And what size were smaller dominos? Also what do you use for dust extraction on your planer/thicknesses?
Thx
Jim
Hi Jim, I used normal planed all round soft wood from the timber merchant. The smaller dominos are 6 x 4 mm (see that at about 9 mins 30 secs). I use my aged Numatic NVD 750 connected to the planer via an Axminster 4" Cyclone (product code 105872) with the dust dropping into a plastic dustbin that I use as a drop box. Peter
Actually it’s a framed ledge and brace door
A ledge and braced door dosent have a head or styles
Also I would have routed a channel in the head and styles and loosely fitted the tg&v boards to accommodate expansion.
That aside I do like how accurately you work
Many thanks for this. Cheers. Peter
Is it normal to not have the frame across the bottom? It just looks a little out of balance without a bottom rail?
billywhizz101 on external doors yes to allow rain to run off the door
When this pattern of door is made for internal use it’s optional to have a full depth rail or as in the gate example Pete made a rail set behind the boarding
Fascinating video. It is something I would never do but it is interesting watching someone else do it. One thought, when you saw your error about not making the domino holes, did you think about using pocket holes, or do I have to put another £1 in the "Swear Box"?
Hi Robert, I love it - i think my swear box got filled up years ago ! I will never use pocket hole joints. I hate them. However, I have every respect for those that use them and are able to produce an accurate result. I have tried them and found it difficult to stop the relative movement between the two parts as the screw is going in at an angle which puts a horizontal component of the force across the joint. Cheers. Peter
New Brit Workshop
Peter I agree with you about the pocket hole screws.... for the most part. I will use them on a door (a barn or shed door. Not on cabinet doors) or something where I can’t hid the pocket holes but I first use my domino machine, make my pocket holes, glue the dominos and everything together and clamp it then use the pocket screws to replace the clamps. I really only use them if I am running low on clamps or doing a big project and can’t commit to using that many clamps. But I rarely get that low on clamps....
Ron
Hi Peter
Two thoughts. Why 4 hinges, wouldn't 3 have done for this door? Second why didn't you buy swan timber and save the cost of machining since you were going to do it anyway?
Nice door!
PS Did you see the interesting video about the new roofing square? Amazing value for £75 I thought.
Hi Michael, I have four hinges for added strength and security. I am having trouble finding timber suppliers with the range of stock that I need and so I had to buy what was available. Take care. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop understood. Maybe hinge bolts would better for security as the door opens outwards.
Would like to see you struggle a little instead of skipping over. Would like to see how you get past a jam.
Off topic but where did you get the red strap you use to hold the extractor hose when thicknessing ?
Hi Paul, It is a webbing strap from an old bag. It is about 700 mm long and has a clip at each end. I wrapped it around the hose twice and it helps to keep it out of the way and also the webbing spreads the load unlike rope that would damage the hose. Peter
Your dominos shouldn't be that tight. They've probably expanded over time through absorbing moisture. A minute or so blast in the microwave would dry them out a little and shrink them to a point where still snug, but not too stiff when inserting into the mortices.
Hi John, Thanks for the tip. Cheers. Peter
I've heard this before actually but talking about biscuits, and people storing them in air tight containers
Love your videos , can I ask you what compressor you use for your nail gun
Hi Wayne, It is a Swan Oiless compressor from Axminster. It runs very quiet and works a treat. Cheers. Peter
New Brit Workshop thank you forgetting back to me once again Peter. Love the channel you’re doing a fantastic job.
Brilliant video as always Peter. Do you have any "shed 101" reference sources you can recommend please?
I have picked up all of my knowledge over many years and it is far from perfect. The key thing is always to make it a dash stronger than you think necessary and put a lot of effort into the roof as it is always the roof that looks bad first on old sheds. Cheers. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop Thanks very much indeed for sharing that knowledge with us all, Peter.
The biggest problem I have with a large domino glue up is that by the time I have the gluing done and before clamping the glue has begun to setup. I have used Titebond II Extend but that doesn't extend glue working time long enough. Living in Texas my garage it normally very warm which cuts down glue working time. Any suggestions?
I have been working in 30 degree C and have no problems with normal Titebond II. You should have 20 minutes to get the clamping done and if it is taking longer look at your glue-up plan rather than the glue itself. Alternatively try Cascamite which has a much longer dwell time. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop, Thank you for your suggestion of Cascamite. The other thing you mentioned in your video was to pre glue the dominos in the members. Like the strategy you mention at about 15:30 and that does speed up the assembly time. You must be careful to wipe off all the squeeze-out pre glue the dominos. I didn't see any glue squeeze-out in your video. I'm going to search your videos to see if you demonstrate your domino gluing technique.
Hi Peter, what size woods did you use for this gate 4x2 for the 2 stiles and top rail, what about the braces and other rails? Thanks
Yes, 4 x 2 for the stiles and top rail. The middle rail and bottom rail were about 1" x 8" in order to give room in front for the tongue and groove. The braces were about 1" x 6". Peter
Peter would you consider fitting a drip strip at the bottom of the door?
Hi Graeme, I have done in the past but with T&G the drips need to run off, even from the V grooves. So, I think it better to let the rain water drain straight down and away. Cheers. Peter
I only have the small domino machine. Is it really necessary to use the 10x100mm dominos?
Hi David, The DF500 will do an excellent job. Depending on the thickness of the stiles and top rail you could use four 10 mm x 50 mm dominoes (or is it dominos). Good luck. Peter
Did you check moisture content of wood with meter?
Hi Paul, I did and it was higher than my cabinet making wood at about 17% I think - from memory. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop Peter what brand meter do you use? I haven’t been able to convince myself to spend a few $100’s on one. Often I’ll ask the mill to check for me when I buy the wood if I’m concerned
Hi Paul, I use a Wagner. It works really well and I am very pleased. Here is the video:
th-cam.com/video/_cgaFgFTpGY/w-d-xo.html
Peter
Will the beech dominoes be ok outside/external?
Hi Craig, The wood framing is softwood and will suffer at the same rate as beech so there is no point putting in a more resilient type of domino. Also, the door is such that it will never get soaking wet and may, at worst, suffer at the very bottom. Peter
Why put hinges on door first?
Hi Paul, When marking or fitting? It is easier for both operations. Peter
I normally put them on the jamb then with the door in place I mark the door for hinge location. Maybe it’s a USA thing?
Hello, thanks for your wokr
Hi Javier, Thank you so much. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop I from Colombia
Why buy dimensioned timber if your going to re straighten etc, over rough saw and dimension yourself
I had no choice in order to get the size I wanted. I am still looking for a decent timber supplier in my area. Peter
What make is that handplane?
Hi Liam, It is a Veritas low angle jack plane. Peter
Effortless as always peter.
Simple door?????
Yes, it is and very easy to make. Peter