Shed - Vapour Barrier and Featherboard
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 มิ.ย. 2020
- The shed is progressing well although the weather has been challenging. A lot of rain and then some very hot days. In this video I attach a vapour barrier to the wall and roof and then fix the featherboard cladding.
Details of the Ondutiss vapour barrier can be found here:
uk.onduline.com/en/diy/products - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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"Remember it's just shed" ... yeah right, this will still be standing in a hundred years. Great series with some laugh out loud moments, well done Peter.
Hi John, At times I think I might do better as a stand-up comic rather than a woodworker ! Cheers. Peter
I always wrap horizontally, starting at the bottom, but each to their own. Nice job - crackin’ shed.😀 All my interior bays were infilled with Celotex so no joins to see.😉
looks a good solid shed for many years to come.
Hi Peter what a fanastic shed. I enjoy watching your professional advice and tips.
Hi Christopher, Many thanks - I do appreciate your feedback. Cheers. Peter
It's not just a Shed... It's a New Brit Workshop built shed., which means we've all come to expect only the best build quality! 😀😉 I loved the bit at 18:10 after carefully measuring the end piece you then threw it over your shoulder. I was genuinely shocked then I smiled, there is hope for us all , every one can make mistakes. Thanks for another great shed episode Peter, I shall be referencing it when I build mine. 5⭐'s
Hi Gordon, Thank you so much - yes, do use it for reference but don't copy my mistakes !! Cheers. Peter
I like to see a man that shows mistakes, he could have easy have deleted them in the video. A true gentleman.
Hi Geoffrey, If only I had a pound for every mistake...I really think that we can learn from not just our own mistakes but also from bish-ups made by other people. Hence I try and keep most of mine in the videos. Cheers. Peter
Nicely done Peter. It’s really coming along. Looking forward to the roof! 😊
Ron
Hi Ron, We have had some contrasting weather lately with days so sunny and bright that filming was tricky due to contrast and then days so wet that I had to cover the shed with a large tarpaulin. I am nearly there and hope to finish it in the next 10 days. Cheers. Peter
Brilliant video Peter gave me lots of ideas, altho I dont think mine will come out anywhere near as good as yours. Love the way you explain things slowly and clearly brilliant many thanks 👍
You are very kind - cheers. Peter
Large flat headed nails, nails with large flat heads, that’s easy for you to say Peter 🤣🤣🤣
Looking forward to seeing the roof going on 👍👍👍
Hi Philip, I am glad that I left that bit in - cheers. Peter
Nice video, if I had been doing that the wind would have fought me all day long. I’m glad I’m not the only one that throws things when they are wrong Peter.😂👍🏻
Hi Jason, Many thanks. Peter
Hey Peter, I loved it when you threw the one piece over your shoulder. We always had a few words to go with the toss although I don’t believe they would be appropriate for you. Shed is really looking great although if your anything like me as you start to load it up you’ll wish you made it a tad bigger! Have a Great Day!
Hi Gary, I am already wishing that I had made it bigger but could not justify the extra cost. Cheers. Peter
I was shouting - "Don't measure from the top of the door"... you didn't hear me :) Excellent series Peter
That is a great Mr Parfitt, you say it's only a shed it is better built than our house , pity as some builder's were so meticulous, Stay Safe and have a nice day !!!.
Hi Brian, I have a thing about the poor standards of some of the mass produced homes here in the UK. The house builders employ sub-contractors but do not supervise or inspect their work. As a result, short cuts are taken and the eventual house owner suffers. My motto is simple - if you are doing a job do it well. Cheers. Peter
Another great video Peter I replayed the bit where you threw the wrongly cut panel over your shoulder 5 times hilarious 😆 🤣
Hi Mike, Many thanks and stay well. Peter
Oh Peter, absolutely love it when you chuck the wrong cut piece away! How many times I’ve done this myself. You plan the cut lines so carefully and then when you’ve made the cut you realise how stupid you’ve been. Thanks for keeping your mistakes on video. It really does reassure me
Hi Tim, It is something that they do not do on TV and yet we can all learn so much from not only our own but also other people's mistakes. Cheers. Peter
I wonder how many viewers have marked and cut a piece of wood like the one above the door only to realise they cut too much off. I know I have several times 😂. This shed {just a a shed} will last longer than the pyramids. Great Video Peter really looking forward to the next one.
Hi Derek, Perhaps I will get my wife to embalm me and put me in it ! HaHa - I love it. Cheers and keep in touch Peter
Good job 👍
Thanks 👍
Great videos thanks
Hi Cary, Many thanks. Peter
very helpful
Glad it helped
😂😂 thoroughly enjoyed that Peter. Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
Hi Peter, I note you seem to have used SS nails on the end as well as the framing nails. I used only SS ring barb nails on our cladding as the timber heard advised to avoid staining on the wood. We didn't treat the work but used cedar which has " silvered" very nicely after a few years. I used builders poly under the cladding on the workshop, which I hope won't cause problems, and lined the inside with recovered match boarding of which we had a lot from the house. So far it's OK.
Hi Mike, The nails are plated (passivated ?) and should be fine. I nearly did use builder's polythene but knew that I would get loads of criticism as that layer should be breathable. I have used poly on all my previous sheds though. Cheers. Peter
Another ‘Rolls Royce’ project. Three years ago, when we moved, I had 66 metres of fencing to build and I purchased a Dewalt cordless nailer. It is very convenient and saved a lot of time. Since then I have built more fencing for neighbours and it has behaved impeccably. I am now sold on cordless tools and gradually replacing my corded tools with cordless.
Hi Ron, My nailer will take nails twice the thickness of the Dewalt (which I believe is only 18 Gauge). Am I wrong? Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop You are very seldom right and you're wrong again (only joking). Manual for DCN692 Framing Nailer says it accepts fasteners of 2.8-3.3mm which is greater than 18 gauge. I think the brad nailer takes 18 gauge which as you say would be too small for fencing or building sheds.
😊👍
A proper shed, made to last. With care it will still be standing in 50 years. Some of the sheds I have seen at DIY stores are made from 6mm thick tongue and groove stuff. If you sneezed inside they would collapse on you. I didn't have the time to build my own shed, but like the guy here I wanted a shed that would last. Luckily, there's a chap not far from me who offers bespoke sheds and other wooden buildings to order. He built mine from what seemed a heavy grade treated 18mm thick tongue and grooved boards - I'm assuming it was pine. I presented him with a fairly roughly drawn sketch and measurements, from which he worked to produce my desired shed. He uses 18mm ply for both the roof and floors, unless a thicker floor is required to take a lathe etc. The finished 12x8ft shed, including delivery and installation was just over £1500, but unlike the companies who offer similar sheds online, I got to choose the size, type and position of both the windows and door. I had to wait 3 months for my shed - he's had a waiting list for a long time - but it was worth it. God knows how busy he would be if he advertised. He's operated on an "if you really want me you'll find me" basis for decades, and his workshop is in a rather isolated location, but I'm pleased he built my shed!
Hi Brian, That is an excellent price for a bespoke shed of that size. I would say that a bespoke on of that size should be nearer to £3k. Cheers. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop From memory the total cost came to around £1575. It's a fair wad of cash for sure but this shed is SOLID! Plus it's exactly what I wanted. I hadn't realised shed prices had got so silly. It seems mine really was a bargain! I've now reached the time of life when I'll settle for a decent solidly built shed and a restored Morris 1000 Traveller. I've got the shed, but looking at the cost of a restored Moggie 1000 Traveller from Charles Ware in Bristol ( a good one can be up around £30 grand), I think that part may remain a pipe dream..... mind you Mr. Ware can bring them into the 21st century with full rustproofing treatment, an unleaded compatible 1300cc engine, five speed gearbox, alternator with uprated electrics and electronic ignition , suspension and disc brakes with a servo etc. He can even fit a heated windscreen to clear frost in Winter if you don't like scraping!
I know that wrap it up with a membrane makes sense when the shed is wrapped with OSB sheets first. Can someone please reply why to wrap it with membrane if there's nothing inside apart from studs?
very informative with lots of great tips, thank you sir for this. Im planning on building a shed with similar details like the foundation, framing and cladding. But im planning on putting OSB on all frames as well. I noticed you didnt, is there a reason for that? my shed will be a lean to shed and alot smaller than this one so im wondering if im not overdoing it a bit. thank you
Hi Tag, I would have had to pay a silly amount to get more OSB as the first lot came with the rest of the timber. If I had estimated the quantity correctly in the first place I would have had it everywhere just as you plan. Cheers. Peter
Good day sir.
If you apply membrane and then featherboard on the outside would it be OK to apply the woolen loft type straight on top of the inner side of the Of the membrane and then board out? I was looking at PIR but the loft insulation is far far cheaper. Granted it probably won't be as good as PIR but the cost is far better for me atm. I'm just abit. Nervous about the wool being in contact with the membrane
Hi David, That should work well as you describe. Good luck. Peter
Building a shed, wondering whether to bother with batons on the studs - you don't. Any issues with regard to airflow, given I'll be lining the inside with insulation and ply?
If you are lining the inside then your breathable membrane should be just under he inner layer. I would not use batons on the vertical studs. Peter
Should have had osb on the framing first, then vapour barrier wrapping around, not.in strips. Those marked out lines are for overlap. Then 2x1 battened off on 400 centres for the cladding to fix to
I am sure you are right but far too elaborate for a simple shed. Many thanks. Peter
What type of shed base have you got..what sub base
Hi Niall, I have compacted stone then clean gravel with concrete pads. This under layer drains into a soak-away that is at the back end of the shed. On this is a 4x2 frame that supports the shed and to which the flooring is attached. Peter
Love your work and thank you for all you do. Since private messaging in TH-cam is gone, maybe you or someone else knows the answer to my question. Axminster tools sells a 110v Makita track saw for way cheaper than they sell for in the U.S. Do you know if they will work with 60hz.
Hi Brian, Most 110 v machines should work but to be sure you can check with Makita. Good luck. Peter
Don’t you need wooden battens in between the moisture barrier and the feather board cladding for air circulation?
Hi Antonio, That would help but my featherboard has plenty of space behind it as the pieces overlap. Cheers. Peter
Getting things right is easy. Getting them wrong is even easier. I know exactly what you mean.
Loved the bit at 18:10, and so did the wife :). She'll forgive a few minor hiccups that I make now, as she has seen that even a professional can have a little whoopsie ;)
I done my shed with this vapour barrier like this nailing on the cladding but I was told after I should of put a 2x1 on over the barrier to allow an air gap,still its grand out anyway
The barrier is there to stop moisture coming in but allow water vapour out. The featherboard has plenty of air gaps behind it and so I am not worried - it is just a shed ! Cheers. Peter
its a breathable membraine bit like goretex
@@NewBritWorkshop Interesting, I take it Kreg is talking about 2 x 1 batons to nail the cladding on ? I have heard the same, but I suspect that is when you're nailing the cladding onto an outer skin of OSB or Ply maybe? I'm going to check that before my build.
@@NewBritWorkshop nope you ideally need ventilation between the wood and the vapour barrier, otherwise you risk tot in your cladding.
@@NewBritWorkshop Thanks - I had the same question in mind, agonising about having a gap between the membrane and boards. Probably would have if I had gone for T&G but like you, went for the featheredge. Mine is more a workshop than shed... but it is "just a shed". I'll hang on to that reality check.
Fantastic shed build. Could you do a follow up and show us the inside.
I will try but not promise anything. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshopThankyou Sir
Why not wrap horizontally rather than vertical, that way you could do the whole shed sides in two layers? Surely of it was overlapped horizontally there would be more of a gravity advantage?
Hi Craig, I wanted the overlap joins to be invisible from inside the shed and so they had to be on the vertical frames. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop excellent logic.
what wood is that feather edge? looks a bit more up market than your standard wickes especial.
It is treated green softwood - the cheapest that I could get. It is not larch nor is it cedar, each of which would be superior. Peter
New Brit Workshop thanks for the reply Peter, very much appreciated.
Should there be battens between the ondutiss and the feather board for an air gap or is that not necessary? Enjoying the videos
No need in my opinion. Peter
What nailer are you using please?
All of the nailers that I have bought came from Axminster. The big one for the shed is super. Peter
This is great. I’m actually going to like a ready-made shed so the uprights and tongue and groove are already formed. Do I need to add the vapour membrane inside and follow it all over the uprights?
Hi Steven, Just follow the procedure that I showed in the video. Peter
Thanks Peter. Not sure I explained properly, The shed is already made, uprights are in, tongue and groove walls on. So from the inside I see walls, then uprights, so do I cut the membrane in the voids between the uprights where I’ll lag, or should I wrap the membrane onto the walls then across all of the uprights? I assume outer walls -> lagging -> membrane then ply is no good???
Hi Steven, Got it - It would be really fiddly to cover everything in one go and so start by just doing the T&G between the uprights. It will not be ideal but if you can manage to cover it all then do so. You could do it in two operations if that makes life easier - the T&G first then the uprights with a little overlap. Peter
Hi Peter. I'm currently in the process of building my own shed, (taken this week off to hopefully complete) most of the info, how to's from people like your good self. In your build you boarded straight over the vapour barrier without using any battens, is this a case of no right or wrong way as others use battens for their cladding? I haven't factored it in as I used your video as reference... Many thanks
Hi Stu, I am pretty relaxed about the right and wrong way of doing things on what is just a shed. I am happy with my method and despite some heavy rain throughout this winter all of my kit inside is really dry. Good luck finishing your shed. Peter
Hi Peter. I have embarked on constructing a workshop on my decking. I am trying to work out how I can link the stud walls together. None of them are at right angles. Do you have any suggestions?
Hi Barry, You problem is not clear - what stud walls? Do you have stud walls on two sides of your decking that are not at right angles? Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop Hi Peter thank you for your reply. I am building a workshop on my decking which is rarely used. It is a very odd shape but my idea is to have it blend with the garden while being functional. There are six different sized walls to make and then secure together. I am trying to come up with a method of securing the walls together. None of them are regular angles. I am thinking of making several struts/wedges down each join. Gluing and screwing them. The best way I can describe the shape would be to imagine a distorted parralelogram.
They are all obtuse angles Peter.
How do you know the angle of the pieces
I drew a plan and used 30/60 degrees for the angles as these are easy to cut on my tracksaw cutting station or Kapex. Peter
There is an easier approach to make the gable planking with the various cut outs: cut to fit the gable, offer up to where it will be fastened, flip down (as in mirrored along horizontal axis), measure the cut outs from the edge upwards (from what now is the top edge, but will be the bottom edge), transfer these measures down, etc. The thing is: this takes more than two hands…
Hi Bert, Yes, I was working on my own. Cheers. Peter
Surely when you begin stapling the material it’s going to compromise the integrity of the material in stopping moisture?
It works fine. Peter
😂😂👏👏 brilliant.
Arnt you supposed to nail the top of the feather board so no nail holes are seen and no water can get in?
Hi Brian, Yes, that is good practice but I prefer my method provided the wood is reasonably well seasoned. So far I have had no splitting. Peter
Super job Peter - shed looks great. I am reassured that even The Master doesn't get everything right first time! I'm guessing that your weatherboard is pressure treated - what maintenance do you think it might need in the years to come?
Hi Darrel, Yes, the featherboard is pressure treated. Before it went up I gave it a coat on both sides with Sadolin and Ronseal mixed. It will need a coat of something about every third year - I will judge when the time comes as it could go on for 5 years without a second coat. My last 33 year old shed only had 5 coats in its lifetime and it is still going strong. Cheers. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop Thanks Peter - that's good info! Best, Darrel
Hi Peter, keen DIY'er here in the process of planning a small 8x12 shed. The local building supplies have just delivered some 2x3s for the frame and a roll of Tyrek Supro. I was astonished at the price of £109 plus vat for a 50m roll. Should I return it, or is it worth using this premium vapour barrier?
Hi Paul, I do not know why you were charged so much - do a Google search and you should find it for about £75 for a 50 m roll. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop I'm guessing the unusually high price is due to convenience for being a local merchant, not to mention covid tax. It's all a bit confusing as they suggest I exchange it for a plastic barrier if I want to go cheaper. I want to do it right, and rather keep the Tyvek vapour barrier if thats what needed. Google seems to give me mixed results on the correct placement of vapour barrier and non-permable plastic.
In this day in age with all the information at our fingertips but the contradiction in advice, might as well be no advice.
I think I'm going to follow you and use the vapour barrier rather than suffocating it in plastic. Right or wrong? Who knows..lol!
Anyhow, today I got the 18mm OSB down, creosoted the bottom, and placed it on 3x2 skids.
The weather is bad tomorrow, so will give me some time to think.
Was the mistake on the infill piece that you did not take account of the overlap?
Hi Terry, No, I measured from the top of the door frame instead of from the bottom of the piece that had been laid just below. I took 110 mm away from the wrong measurement ! Never mind - I did us the two ends of that piece further up. Cheers. Peter
New Brit Workshop Hi Peter, How reassuring that even " the master" makes occasional (?) mistakes.
I may be wrong Peter, but it looked like you were nailing through two pieces of board (the nails didn't seem to be at least 40mm up from the bottom of the upper board, assuming the boards are 150mm). I thought that, to prevent splitting due to expansion and contraction, you shouldn't nail through the lower board when fixing the upper one.
Hi Colin, The split will occur in the very thin part of the board below and is therefore of no consequence. This method is stronger and lasts longer but, can sometimes, cause a split on the outer board - it is just a shed and I want it to last at least 35 years. Cheers. Peter
Hi, Really enjoyed watching your video. How much of the vapour barrier did you need for the whole shed please?
Hi Stu, It was about 22 m but I did not measure the overall amount in any way. If you are planning a shed then allow for 200 mm overlaps at each seam. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop Many thanks for your reply. Have you left the inside of the shed, leaving the barrier visible or have you or intend to board it?
What type of nails to hold it?? :D
Hi Lloyd, For the vapour barrier I used the staple gun. For the featherboard onto the frame I used 50 mm ring shank nails in the framing nailer. The OSB was screwed in place. Peter
I thought a vapour barrier stops stops moisture/condensate getting in to the stud work and insulation from the inside, it's a plastic sheet, not permeable. What he is putting up is a breathable membrane, its not the same thing as I'm aware.
Interesting that you apply the vapor barrier vertically as opposed to horizontally! It must be the brand type you use I guess.
The vapour barrier works in either orientation. I did mine vertically in order not to have overlaps showing on the inside of the shed. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop the point of horizontal install from the bottom is to allow any water that gets onto it to run down and out, without it wicking between. The tape helps prevent that with vertical orientation option, but horizontal is always better.
Mifter wud U pweev cross over tha Big Pond, an wud U bill my shed jes lack urs. Purty pweev. I will break my penny bank an I will giv it all to U. Promif.
Thanks Mifter!
Hi Pat, I somehow do not think I will travel in an airplane again. I did so much flying when I was working and hated being sat down up for long periods. So, videos is it for now. Cheers. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop I traveled almost "NON" stop for 25 yrs. So I can equate completely. And that was a time when one could just walk on to the plane. Those days are over. Sadly.
I'm assuming that the shed has no internal walls, because if it did, then the vapour barrier would be on the inside and not on the outside, in UK Climate.
It would be on the outside in hot climates.....
It's actually a breathable membrane rather than a vapour barrier.
Super shed, but did I see at 1:55 a non festool drill/driver? Peter this is not like you! At least it was green and black I suppose.
Hi Stephen, That is my Hitachi impact driver. Festool have only just brought one out and I have not had the opportunity to try one out yet. The Hitachi works very well although it is quite old technology now. Peter
Robbie Cleveland that is
I do not understand why anyone would lay a breathable membrane in vertical strips. Surely it is designed to wrap the structure horizontally. Where I live rain/water goes down.
That is not the way it works. If rain were falling or dripping directly on the membrane then there is a design flaw. It is vapour that it is aimed at. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop I completely disagree. These products are designed to be installed horizontally. Vertical joints should be avoided as far a possible always introduce weakness to water ingress and have to be taped. Ask any rep aelling building wraps. Aside from that, it is just common sense to lap horizontally.
You need to nail just above the lower edge of where the next bird should be.
You are creating an open to the elements wood scar
You are hanging weather boards not Tarzan struts.