Hey everyone! Lots of folks asking the very reasonable question of why more care isn’t taken to ensure the bearings are centred on the bore. The answer is that there’s a lot of clearance with the magnets inside and it’s not a critical dimension. Worst case, you could sand a little off the permanent stator magnets, but you’d have to be way off for that to be needed. The build notes in the kit are clear that if you center all holes on their cast bosses, it’ll be close enough. It’s more important that it look nice from the outside in this case. Also, the reason my thermal expansion didn’t work is that I calculated with the diameter of the entire part, not the bearing hole. Thus it’s not surprising that way more heat was needed than my toaster oven can do. It’s always good to know why an idea didn’t work! Lastly, a couple folks noticed the timing of the brushes is off 90°. Oops! I made them horizontal because they’re drawn that way in the end bell drawing, but the assembly drawing shows they have to be vertical. Luckily everything still aligns if I rotate the bell 90°.
I watched it earlier on TV, so couldn't comment, so here I am. You are not the first to get the binding posts wrong, its also not the first TH-cam build to suffer the same way. But funny story, I have no machining capablities at home so chose to buy one from the uk importer, ready built, not happy when it didnt work, yup same fault, luckily the holes were all equally drilled so an easy fix. You could actually turn the magnets if you devise your own screw to locate the magnets ? To my mind it would also look better than way, and I may do my one at some point. Anyway glad you worked it out 👍
@@jameschase11That's an interesting thought - I guessed it would run off the red stationary steam engine made a couple years ago, but your idea is better.
@@jameschase11 @criggle I do wonder about linking them up. The locomotive is going to be built to deliver its powers to the main axles, so I'm not sure where this dynamo would get hooked in to get power from... The static engines are a much easier fit here.
Tip for buying washers if you are looking for consistency in stack ups. Buy washers with "AN", "NAS," or "MS" part numbers. These are aerospace grade and they are held to a tight tolerance in all dimensions. A standard washer is .060 thick and a thin washer will have an "L" in the part number and is .015. I'm a retired jet mechanic and spent 45+ years building "shim" stacks for hose clamps, wire bundles and brackets from washers. For example a 10 year old AN320-4L washer will mic at .015 and new in the bag AN320-4L will mic at .015. So if anybody wants to build up a collection of washers for stacking (shimming) use aerospace grade for consistency.
There's also LL washers that are even thinner, at least in some of the smaller sizes. The stuff is also fairly cheap if you're ordering in bulk from Spruce or some of the other suppliers that will sell to retail customers.
I was machining a tiny flywheel for a 1:120 scale locomotive today and as I parted it off, I muttered Yahtzee under my breath. Your influence is far reaching. :)
The big problem with watching very skilled people do things they are very skilled at is they make it look really easy. Your skill at explaining these things is so much that you make it seem exactly as hard as it is. This is something truely special. Nice.
I worked for a decade in a large AC motor plant. The end bell spigot flange and bearing hole were usually machined in one setup in a vertical boring machine with about a 6 ft rotary table. It was essential to get the shaft concentric with the motor housing. With even relatively small off centre position of the rotor there would be asymmetrical phase currents. Same care was taken in DC machines even though the poles could be /were shimmed to balance the internal flux, especially with the inter-poles.
Like the fact that you (and maybe all Canadians?) refer to the end caps as end bells. I've heard Americans call them bell ends. Which UK people find highly amusing.
Fun to watch you work on this little generator. I work on ones that look very similar but at 450 Kw output just a tad bigger. Lovely work nicely done.👍
I am absolutely amazed. I can only imagine how much effort went into the rnd of early dynamos and electric motors. And my appreciation for mass-produced dc motors has increased quite a bit.
Love it, brilliant work on the metal and video. Most people won't realise how much harder it is to make and film at the same time, having to task shift between the two and never getting fully into the zone with the making. And then you get to suffer the makers curse x2...it's bad enough spotting minors imperfections that no normal person would ever worry about at the time, then to pick up even more during the edit!
Very nice! Line boring for the bearings was exactly the best choice. Lots of good advice about transferring the marks, rather than going by the numbers, as well as the interference fit physics. Thanks!!!
As someone who rebuilds industrial gearboxes and machines, sometimes freezing a bearing to the temp of a household freezer is what you need, especially if the counterpart to that part to be mounted is small, and will not retain the heat when fitting together, like i get this job occasionally every few months where i just need to assemble these shafts where they have these hardened sleeves with an interference fit of .002-.0035, now that isnt a whole lot, now the hard part is the bore of those sleeves is like .873, the shaft .875-.8775. the distance from the end of shaft to the desired poin is like 5 inches. You cant heat the sleeve up too much becuase you will easily loose that hardness, so i put the 4 er 5 shafts in the shop freezer, i walk 1 at a time over to my arbor press and a little jig i had made (which occasionally fails, i.e. scrap a shaft as a result) set up already, I already have all 5 bushings in the little oven at around 300, I pull one out set it in the jig, hit it with a propane torch with a soft flame for like 10 seconds at most, line up the shaft and hopefully it slides and seats perfectly, but if it gets stuck you without hesitation press down on the arbor press, it works pretty well. before i started putting them in the freezer my success rate was like 3 of 5. Yes i have access to lots of liquid nitrogen, but it isnt possible to just freeze the shaft enough or it will crack the sleeve when they are hot. however the shaft being in the freezer isnt too cold to damage anything with the temp differences, my success rate is like 14 out of 15. like in my experience fitting most things together with any interference fit up to like .005 can be done with no need for press fitting, as lone as the sizes to be fitted are larger than 2.5in and are of standard materials, (in my case alot of 4130, 4340, etd 150, bearing steels obviously) You just need a nice level way to work hold what your fitting together vertically (with stops if required), some gloves, and a little finesse. knowing when to literally drop the part is something you learn over time and pleasing the machinist gods by keeping your ceremonial hammer and tube/rod to tap the part if it gets cocked or wants to climb up from where its supposed to seat is a must. And honestly the bigger the bearing the easier to fit together until you hit the point where your trying to pick up 50 er 60lb sphereical bearings out of the oven up 3 er 4 steps to then lift it a bit more then drop it on a shaft 8ft tall. when you hit the point you obviously want a crane and im a fan of hanging your shaft at the ready and lowering shaft into the bearing, less chance to cock the bearing and easier to line up the shaft to the bore (requires less finesse/"feel") , and the weight of the large parts will be all you need to ensure its seated properly.
I enjoy your videos so much. Thanks for being a part of my Saturday routine for so long and especially for sharing the small details of your projects along the way. 🙂
Sixty-six years ago I machined for several weeks in a shop class. That's where I learned my life-long AWESOME humility. I haven't machined since. Ever since then, I have left the machining to smart, patient, skilled, creative experts like you. Same for welding.
one tipp for measuring the temperature of metal with IR thermometer like you used: stick a piece of tape on them metal is highly reflective in the IR, so what you actually do is measure the surrounding area, but not the surface temperature of the metal. with tape however you eliminate that reflectiveness and can measure the surface temp. I learned that info the hard way in a thermodynamics experiments class at uni
I love watching how good I could be, rather than the reality of swearing a lot, and endless re cutting with an hacksaw! Thanks for the great blogs you do🤝
Fiddly Allen Bolt Tip: When you have an allen bolt that is recessed or you need to hold a part in place with one hand like on your end cap fixture, you can rip a corner off a paper towel and lay it over the allen bolt head. Then when you push the allen wrench into socket of the bolt the paper towel holds it to the wrench. In the semiconductor cleanrooms where all the hardware is stainless and magnets don't work, we use a small piece of rubber glove. I know your issues was the bolt pattern but it helps take out the fiddlyness.
Beautiful. Super enjoyable. But I wonder why you weren't concerned with getting the rotor centered in the housing bore. Doesn't it need a constant gap wrt the magnets?
I built this model last week and there is quite a bit of clearance between the armature and the magnets, so I guess we'll find out in the next video if it's an issue. The time to drill the holes for the bearing was when the end bells were set up on the lathe.
You could have done it in the mill as well, just centred the drill on the main housing bore not the castings. That's what I thought Quinn was going to do.
27:09 I have those metal shelves too and they are SO good. They were also far cheaper than garbage plastic shelves in terms of available cubic area within them per dollar.
I'm lucky enough to be owned by two cats, neither of which has ever bitten or scratched even once. This does make me a little complacent with other kitties sometimes though!
FYI, I have been subscribed for quite a while now but all of a sudden I'm not getting notifications. For the past few weeks, I have had to search to find your latest video. I have the full notification bell selected, etc and haven't changed anything on my side. Just thought you should know...BTW you're worth the search, but I wonder how many others are not seeing you? Keep rockin' & thank you for your content, always fascinating.
If you need to cool small parts an alternative to keeping liquid nitrogen laying around, caned air dusters turned upside down slowly spraying just enough to drip the liquid on your part will freeze colder than your freezer
Hi blondihack! I was realy worried by the order of operations... hey! you forgot the bearing mill! in the lathe... Oh my god! in the bolt patern! really a big suspense.... Nice job.
Nice work! Learning a lot from your video's. I guess another reason for not heating (much) with ballbearings is that they have oil, grease and plastic in them that don't like high temperatures. I actually forgot that once while removing an old bearing...
Before I ponied up for a dewar, I used to use a gallon of denatured alcohol and dry ice to freeze my bearings.. Not quite as cold as liquid nitrogen, and it'll wash any grease out, but not everyone presses bearings or pins enough to warrant a $600 dewar.
I recommend you check out a video by Adam the machinest. The video is on shallow diameter gauges. You could then ditch those guessometers for measuring little bosses like that. PS you are an inspiration and I have made the leap into machining because you. I always wanted to make engines but never thought I could do it. But with your sharing of knowledge you have made it accessible to me. Thank you
Newb question: if you’re concerned about the fit on the bearings having the potential to crack the casting if press fit, what’s different about a thermal fit that reduces that risk? Is it because the forces, after cooling, are applied to the whole surface of the bearing/bore, whereas a press fit will be concentrated over a much shorter depth while pressing?
I had to pet a stray cat outside my house with a wooden back scratcher for 2 months before she didnt feel like tearing my hand off. It felt better than any professional success I've achieved when she finally sat in my lap to get pets.
I don't think "negotiating" means what you think it does in this context... We had a cat that lured you into tickling her tummy, then went all Alien face hugger on your hand. Grippy. Clawy. Check your tetanus status-y.
interesting about the temp to expand it enough to fit the bearing. i replaced bearings on a small 3 phase motor last week and all it took was some 55c hot water to expand it enough.
At 3:00 my thought is (if you have the extra small 4-jaw) is to fix the endbell in a small 4-jaw chuck and then center that 4-jaw in the main lathe 4-jaw. (Now we'll see how you solved it.)
Nice work! The binding post holes look like little eyes, I'd have gotten stuck trying to centre the 4 jaw at the start so that's a good lesson to keep in the back of the mind!
Dry ice is a good way to put in bushings. Especially when can't easily heat the other part. Did it on a giant hydraulic breaker weighing 1.6 ton and costing 1500 usd 😮 You really don't want to mess that up
Thanks Quinn. Hmmm...steam engine owner - check, getting close to Christmas - check, generator - almost check. Steam powered tree lights on the horizon? That would be sooo cool! 🎄
old video, just had the thought, what if you did both? freezing may not be enough on it's own, but if you can't quite get enough with heat, could you get enough delta by freezing the bearings and heating the part?
I am enjoying these videos so much as I made a series of videos 8 years ago about the same topic. If you have the time have a look it is called (Model D.C, generator build Part 1)
Probably the best course of action for pressing those bushings, thermal expansion and contraction doesn't work nearly as well on small parts as it does on large parts
It works just as well if not way better. its much harder to take apart haha I guarantee it. the time you have to do to the assembling however gets much shorter and trickier. Jigs for repeated jobs are key lol.
Hey everyone! Lots of folks asking the very reasonable question of why more care isn’t taken to ensure the bearings are centred on the bore. The answer is that there’s a lot of clearance with the magnets inside and it’s not a critical dimension. Worst case, you could sand a little off the permanent stator magnets, but you’d have to be way off for that to be needed. The build notes in the kit are clear that if you center all holes on their cast bosses, it’ll be close enough. It’s more important that it look nice from the outside in this case.
Also, the reason my thermal expansion didn’t work is that I calculated with the diameter of the entire part, not the bearing hole. Thus it’s not surprising that way more heat was needed than my toaster oven can do. It’s always good to know why an idea didn’t work!
Lastly, a couple folks noticed the timing of the brushes is off 90°. Oops! I made them horizontal because they’re drawn that way in the end bell drawing, but the assembly drawing shows they have to be vertical. Luckily everything still aligns if I rotate the bell 90°.
Will this dyno be used for the locomotive that your building?
I watched it earlier on TV, so couldn't comment, so here I am.
You are not the first to get the binding posts wrong, its also not the first TH-cam build to suffer the same way.
But funny story, I have no machining capablities at home so chose to buy one from the uk importer, ready built, not happy when it didnt work, yup same fault, luckily the holes were all equally drilled so an easy fix.
You could actually turn the magnets if you devise your own screw to locate the magnets ? To my mind it would also look better than way, and I may do my one at some point.
Anyway glad you worked it out 👍
@@jameschase11That's an interesting thought - I guessed it would run off the red stationary steam engine made a couple years ago, but your idea is better.
@@jameschase11 @criggle I do wonder about linking them up. The locomotive is going to be built to deliver its powers to the main axles, so I'm not sure where this dynamo would get hooked in to get power from... The static engines are a much easier fit here.
Wouldn't it be enough to just rotate the permanent magnets 90° ?
Tip for buying washers if you are looking for consistency in stack ups. Buy washers with "AN", "NAS," or "MS" part numbers. These are aerospace grade and they are held to a tight tolerance in all dimensions. A standard washer is .060 thick and a thin washer will have an "L" in the part number and is .015. I'm a retired jet mechanic and spent 45+ years building "shim" stacks for hose clamps, wire bundles and brackets from washers. For example a 10 year old AN320-4L washer will mic at .015 and new in the bag AN320-4L will mic at .015. So if anybody wants to build up a collection of washers for stacking (shimming) use aerospace grade for consistency.
There's also LL washers that are even thinner, at least in some of the smaller sizes. The stuff is also fairly cheap if you're ordering in bulk from Spruce or some of the other suppliers that will sell to retail customers.
Aerospace grade = $N X 20? More?
@@Antti_Nannimus AN fasteners are still cheap.
There are also distance washers for electronics, way in the middle. No burrs, but reasonably priced
@@Antti_NannimusAN hardware is a bit pricier than standard hardware but not all that much more so all things considered
I was machining a tiny flywheel for a 1:120 scale locomotive today and as I parted it off, I muttered Yahtzee under my breath. Your influence is far reaching. :)
Well done, Quinn. Glad to see your cat-battle scars healing.
The big problem with watching very skilled people do things they are very skilled at is they make it look really easy. Your skill at explaining these things is so much that you make it seem exactly as hard as it is. This is something truely special. Nice.
I worked for a decade in a large AC motor plant. The end bell spigot flange and bearing hole were usually machined in one setup in a vertical boring machine with about a 6 ft rotary table. It was essential to get the shaft concentric with the motor housing. With even relatively small off centre position of the rotor there would be asymmetrical phase currents. Same care was taken in DC machines even though the poles could be /were shimmed to balance the internal flux, especially with the inter-poles.
Always look forward to your latest upload. You're like that friend we love checking in on to see what you're up to. Every episode is a lesson.
Like the fact that you (and maybe all Canadians?) refer to the end caps as end bells. I've heard Americans call them bell ends. Which UK people find highly amusing.
Fun to watch you work on this little generator. I work on ones that look very similar but at 450 Kw output just a tad bigger. Lovely work nicely done.👍
"I'll set it up on the lathe and give it a whirl." I see what you did there. Very nice!
Oh, watching those bushings get press-fit there near the end was ... *chefskiss* just satisfying.
I am absolutely amazed. I can only imagine how much effort went into the rnd of early dynamos and electric motors. And my appreciation for mass-produced dc motors has increased quite a bit.
You have the power to generate great parts
Congrats on reaching 200k subs. great content. great job
Love it, brilliant work on the metal and video. Most people won't realise how much harder it is to make and film at the same time, having to task shift between the two and never getting fully into the zone with the making. And then you get to suffer the makers curse x2...it's bad enough spotting minors imperfections that no normal person would ever worry about at the time, then to pick up even more during the edit!
No need to coax me into watching the rest of this series. I'm hooked.
Very nice! Line boring for the bearings was exactly the best choice. Lots of good advice about transferring the marks, rather than going by the numbers, as well as the interference fit physics. Thanks!!!
As someone who rebuilds industrial gearboxes and machines, sometimes freezing a bearing to the temp of a household freezer is what you need, especially if the counterpart to that part to be mounted is small, and will not retain the heat when fitting together, like i get this job occasionally every few months where i just need to assemble these shafts where they have these hardened sleeves with an interference fit of .002-.0035, now that isnt a whole lot, now the hard part is the bore of those sleeves is like .873, the shaft .875-.8775. the distance from the end of shaft to the desired poin is like 5 inches. You cant heat the sleeve up too much becuase you will easily loose that hardness, so i put the 4 er 5 shafts in the shop freezer, i walk 1 at a time over to my arbor press and a little jig i had made (which occasionally fails, i.e. scrap a shaft as a result) set up already, I already have all 5 bushings in the little oven at around 300, I pull one out set it in the jig, hit it with a propane torch with a soft flame for like 10 seconds at most, line up the shaft and hopefully it slides and seats perfectly, but if it gets stuck you without hesitation press down on the arbor press, it works pretty well. before i started putting them in the freezer my success rate was like 3 of 5. Yes i have access to lots of liquid nitrogen, but it isnt possible to just freeze the shaft enough or it will crack the sleeve when they are hot. however the shaft being in the freezer isnt too cold to damage anything with the temp differences, my success rate is like 14 out of 15.
like in my experience fitting most things together with any interference fit up to like .005 can be done with no need for press fitting, as lone as the sizes to be fitted are larger than 2.5in and are of standard materials, (in my case alot of 4130, 4340, etd 150, bearing steels obviously) You just need a nice level way to work hold what your fitting together vertically (with stops if required), some gloves, and a little finesse. knowing when to literally drop the part is something you learn over time and pleasing the machinist gods by keeping your ceremonial hammer and tube/rod to tap the part if it gets cocked or wants to climb up from where its supposed to seat is a must. And honestly the bigger the bearing the easier to fit together until you hit the point where your trying to pick up 50 er 60lb sphereical bearings out of the oven up 3 er 4 steps to then lift it a bit more then drop it on a shaft 8ft tall. when you hit the point you obviously want a crane and im a fan of hanging your shaft at the ready and lowering shaft into the bearing, less chance to cock the bearing and easier to line up the shaft to the bore (requires less finesse/"feel") , and the weight of the large parts will be all you need to ensure its seated properly.
I enjoy your videos so much. Thanks for being a part of my Saturday routine for so long and especially for sharing the small details of your projects along the way. 🙂
Hello Quinn, I see at least two other comments about the binding post positions - glad that got sorted out. 👍
Another win for Quinn!
Sixty-six years ago I machined for several weeks in a shop class. That's where I learned my life-long AWESOME humility. I haven't machined since. Ever since then, I have left the machining to smart, patient, skilled, creative experts like you. Same for welding.
That was one of your best videos yet Quinn. Not that the others were bad either. Just that this one was very cool to watch. Well done.
one tipp for measuring the temperature of metal with IR thermometer like you used: stick a piece of tape on them
metal is highly reflective in the IR, so what you actually do is measure the surrounding area, but not the surface temperature of the metal.
with tape however you eliminate that reflectiveness and can measure the surface temp.
I learned that info the hard way in a thermodynamics experiments class at uni
Spinning the motor by hand brought back sense memories from my (very distant) youth - these really were the Original fidget spinners :-)
Thanks Quinn, helps a lot ..I'm glad a compromise was reached over the scritches, phew!
Line boring in miniature! Love it. ❤
This is super satisfying! It's a relatively simple machining process overall, but the end result is chef's kiss.
Great video, thanks for making it.
Because chamfers are what separate humans from animals. 😀 Has to be said!
I love watching how good I could be, rather than the reality of swearing a lot, and endless re cutting with an hacksaw! Thanks for the great blogs you do🤝
Fiddly Allen Bolt Tip: When you have an allen bolt that is recessed or you need to hold a part in place with one hand like on your end cap fixture, you can rip a corner off a paper towel and lay it over the allen bolt head. Then when you push the allen wrench into socket of the bolt the paper towel holds it to the wrench. In the semiconductor cleanrooms where all the hardware is stainless and magnets don't work, we use a small piece of rubber glove. I know your issues was the bolt pattern but it helps take out the fiddlyness.
Beautiful. Super enjoyable. But I wonder why you weren't concerned with getting the rotor centered in the housing bore. Doesn't it need a constant gap wrt the magnets?
I am wondering the same.
I built this model last week and there is quite a bit of clearance between the armature and the magnets, so I guess we'll find out in the next video if it's an issue. The time to drill the holes for the bearing was when the end bells were set up on the lathe.
You could have done it in the mill as well, just centred the drill on the main housing bore not the castings. That's what I thought Quinn was going to do.
Yay! It's Blondihacks time!!!
27:09 I have those metal shelves too and they are SO good. They were also far cheaper than garbage plastic shelves in terms of available cubic area within them per dollar.
This piece looks cool, all put together at the end like that. I look forward to seeing how it integrates with the rest of everything!
Sounds like you got kitty scritches, just not in the direction intended. 😂
Super cool project. I'm looking forward to the next episode.
I really enjoy your videos. Thank you for sharing your skills and knowledge. Hope you and sprocket are looking forward to Christmas.
Nice work Quinn,like the jigs and fixtures you made.👍👍
I'm lucky enough to be owned by two cats, neither of which has ever bitten or scratched even once. This does make me a little complacent with other kitties sometimes though!
FYI, I have been subscribed for quite a while now but all of a sudden I'm not getting notifications. For the past few weeks, I have had to search to find your latest video. I have the full notification bell selected, etc and haven't changed anything on my side. Just thought you should know...BTW you're worth the search, but I wonder how many others are not seeing you?
Keep rockin' & thank you for your content, always fascinating.
I have to get myself one of these oneday, its just too cute!
Cattywumpus Angle - The optimal angle for the side of pyramids, as determined by the pharaoh Kattawumpus (810BCE - 768BCE).
i love these kind of videos having to come up with set up for the operation is great imformation to learn you explain every thing so well thank you
Very satisfying fit, interesting that the patterns for the end bells seem to have been 3D printed.
Excellent Video! Thank you for the comprehensive explanation on why you didn't put the bearing in the freezer, very well done.
The axle bearings race on a John Deere 4430 tractor are heated to drop over the axle shaft - about 5 in shaft😊
Great video Quinn. Alec Steele just started a model power hammer casting build and I kept thinking of you doing a reaction video to it.
Interesting! I just watched it. He’s quite an entertaining fellow
This project is coming along very nicely. It's looking great. Thanks again for all of your explanations and breakdowns Quinn!
If you need to cool small parts an alternative to keeping liquid nitrogen laying around, caned air dusters turned upside down slowly spraying just enough to drip the liquid on your part will freeze colder than your freezer
28:24 another hack is to use crushed dry ice and denatured/grain alcohol. Mix up the slurry in a cheap cooler.
Hi blondihack! I was realy worried by the order of operations... hey! you forgot the bearing mill! in the lathe... Oh my god! in the bolt patern! really a big suspense.... Nice job.
😍 Such a beautiful assembly of iron and aluminum
I've done heating and freezing combined which worked well
Sweet baby dynamo, nice job⚒️🇬🇧🇺🇦
"...I'm going to set it up on the lathe and give it a whirl." I see what you did there. 🤣
Thanks Quinn!
... I've re-read Gingery too much. My first thought was to strap that end-bell onto the faceplate.
Hey, that looks like a generator!
Nice.
Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.
Nice work!
Learning a lot from your video's.
I guess another reason for not heating (much) with ballbearings is that they have oil, grease and plastic in them that don't like high temperatures.
I actually forgot that once while removing an old bearing...
Those reduced shank drills are also known as "Blacksmith's drills" here in Blighty.
Ahh.. a new Blondiehacks video. Great way to start the weekend!
Before I ponied up for a dewar, I used to use a gallon of denatured alcohol and dry ice to freeze my bearings.. Not quite as cold as liquid nitrogen, and it'll wash any grease out, but not everyone presses bearings or pins enough to warrant a $600 dewar.
Nice work, Quinn! Looking forward to the rest of this project.
Good job. Thank you 😊
Can't wait to see volts from live steam!
I recommend you check out a video by Adam the machinest. The video is on shallow diameter gauges. You could then ditch those guessometers for measuring little bosses like that. PS you are an inspiration and I have made the leap into machining because you. I always wanted to make engines but never thought I could do it. But with your sharing of knowledge you have made it accessible to me. Thank you
Newb question: if you’re concerned about the fit on the bearings having the potential to crack the casting if press fit, what’s different about a thermal fit that reduces that risk? Is it because the forces, after cooling, are applied to the whole surface of the bearing/bore, whereas a press fit will be concentrated over a much shorter depth while pressing?
Top Job Quinn
Looking awesome thanks for sharing your knowledge cheers
Thanks Quinn
Thankyou 👍
Very cool. Came out really nice.
Negotiating with cats can be… difficult...
I had to pet a stray cat outside my house with a wooden back scratcher for 2 months before she didnt feel like tearing my hand off.
It felt better than any professional success I've achieved when she finally sat in my lap to get pets.
As an owner of 3 cats, I can say it's always a negotiating from a position of weakness
I don't think "negotiating" means what you think it does in this context... We had a cat that lured you into tickling her tummy, then went all Alien face hugger on your hand. Grippy. Clawy. Check your tetanus status-y.
I'm introducing a female kitten to my 2 yr old male and yesh, he is not having it and there is not much say I have in the matter
I've never had a cat that scratched me on purpose. Met a few that did, but raise them right and they are super careful around sensitive humans.
Locational, transitional fits........ thats what I have when the beer runs out!
interesting about the temp to expand it enough to fit the bearing.
i replaced bearings on a small 3 phase motor last week and all it took was some 55c hot water to expand it enough.
I learn so many cool tips and tricks here. Thanks for the wonderful content.
At 3:00 my thought is (if you have the extra small 4-jaw) is to fix the endbell in a small 4-jaw chuck and then center that 4-jaw in the main lathe 4-jaw. (Now we'll see how you solved it.)
Model railroad is the finest of hobbies.
Touché 😁 Let’s call it a tie.
Nice work! The binding post holes look like little eyes, I'd have gotten stuck trying to centre the 4 jaw at the start so that's a good lesson to keep in the back of the mind!
Dry ice is a good way to put in bushings. Especially when can't easily heat the other part. Did it on a giant hydraulic breaker weighing 1.6 ton and costing 1500 usd 😮 You really don't want to mess that up
Thanks Quinn. Hmmm...steam engine owner - check, getting close to Christmas - check, generator - almost check. Steam powered tree lights on the horizon? That would be sooo cool! 🎄
And the cat felt hard done by for compromising ❤
I need to get this kit.
old video, just had the thought, what if you did both? freezing may not be enough on it's own, but if you can't quite get enough with heat, could you get enough delta by freezing the bearings and heating the part?
That was fun. Thanks
Straight up Boss✨💫💎
Are you going to drill oiling holes for the bearings?
You should build this dynamo into a comical oversized steam generator for your Pennsylvania a3
Cool stuff
HAH! "eye-crometer" I LUV it!!!!!!!!!!!!!
it's cool that you can see they used a 3d printer for the endbell casting molds (layer lines on the sides)
7:15 your record have a crack😂. Anyway, I like your work and your explanation.
you can thank the central limit theorem for the washer stacks
6:00 wouldn't it be easier to use a divider and transfer it to the micrometer?
Very nice
I am enjoying these videos so much as I made a series of videos 8 years ago about the same topic. If you have the time have a look it is called (Model D.C, generator build Part 1)
This would be neat with a Reddy Kilowatt decal, if such a thing could be found.
200k 👍
Every time you said "clearance" I had to think "What's the clearance Clarence?"
Probably the best course of action for pressing those bushings, thermal expansion and contraction doesn't work nearly as well on small parts as it does on large parts
It works just as well if not way better. its much harder to take apart haha I guarantee it.
the time you have to do to the assembling however gets much shorter and trickier. Jigs for repeated jobs are key lol.
are you going to generate electricity with steam?