You’re 100% spot on with trying to turn it back into filament. You can technically get it back into printable material, but the quality of that filament will be terrible, and you’ll spend just as much time and energy just trying to dial in the print settings. My local rubbish dump accepts hard plastics, and it’s only 5 min down the road from me, so I stock up all the big bits and take them down there. I don’t put anything really flexible, it’s not worth trying to convince the long suffering workers down there that these fine strings of calibration print are the same material, they just go in the trash.
Definitely watch that toolbox with the fact that it allows you to have multiple draws open at once... I have seen that style topple over before.. Nice build as always 👍
Great warning to share. Mine has lathe chucks in the bottom and a heavy box on top that sits towards the back half, so I think it would be tough to get it to tip over, but I should safely test my assumption to be sure.
I look forward to your practical ideas and designs for functional 3D printing every week. I am amazed how you find the time to produce the videos and use all of the machinery in your workshop. I am now retired but never seem to have enough time to get everything done. I have left comments before regarding the machine tools you mention in your videos. Machine Tools have been at the centre of my entire working life. I do not have anything like the equipment in your work shop although I am familiar with it, I only have a small lathe and a pillar drill/mill as I have very little interest in making “things” with conventional machine tools after all these years. I came across 3D “rapid prototyping“ machines (I don’t think the term printing was used then) originally in the 1990’s. And have followed the technology since. You mentioned in your last video the amount of wasted material when producing prototypes. My approach is to not print the whole thing to start with, I design the part I want which normally needs to fit or have something from the real world fit to it. Then slice it into small parts that I can test fit to the real world item. For example, I would have printed a sample Morse Taper bore for your lathe centres, then a section / slice to test fit the body of your holders into the drawer and so on until I am almost sure my design will fit before printing the whole thing. This reduces the amount of material and also speeds up the process because the print times are slashed. Even faster when you have more than one printer. Although I will admit sometimes having the whole thing in your hands can change your ideas from what appears on the computer screen. Please keep the videos coming, also can you share details about what you make with the machine tools and woodworking machines and how they integrate with 3D printing please.
It's a struggle most weeks if I'm honest. Thx for sharing your method around prototyping. I did more of that in the past, but there is often value like you said in seeing other parts of it and evolving those as well in addition to fixing the broad strokes. It's a balance. Can't spend too much time on the details that don't matter yet, but if you leave them all till the end you end up with even more iterations :)
Theres shredding projects out there but would love to see your take on building a shredding, recycling setup. Especially considering you're thoughtful and esthetically pleasing design style and the content you could create making parts for it and such.
My plan for rejected parts or waste is to collect clean pieces of just one type of plastic (PETG in my case). Once I have a full bag, I plan to take it to a dedicated recycling facility. However, my local Masterspace is making something in this space, so asking your closest Masterspace might be an option as well. If I could recycle at home, I'd use the recycled filament to make draft pieces or parts where visual and strength properties are not impotent.
Commenting on your thoughts to the surface finish - very shallow angles have to "skip" layer heights. Variable layer height would help here. Printing it all in a very small layer height would take hours. Many slicers feature variable layer height, can recommend with Prusa and Orca slicer.
In our area at some of the supermarkets, I guess you call them Malls over the pond, there are big dustbins about 250 litres labelled with the various types of cleanish plastic waste(not for used dirty bottles, that's outside) and also a generic one. These bins go for recycling when full and the proceeds go to local charities, they also have bottle top bins from the likes of milk and fruit juice and similar that is mostly PetG. Being in a busy place they tend to fill up quite fast. Every little helps. The draw is looking good, I quite like gridfinity for smaller stuff but not really ideal for that size and weight of tooling.
Sorry for the double view but I had to come back because I forgot to hit that big 👍button!. When this all started I was asking myself why you did not use the gridfinity system but ... My curent cabinet uses a lot of trays that are 1.5 units and I don't want to combine the different trays. I love the gripping/anti sliding lips on the taper holders.
Your main concern is protecting your tapers. You may have a problem with the loose parts sliding over from the left to the right. I think you may want to design some sort of a stop on the left side of the pipe center, to keep parts from sliding right and against the taper.
I love 3D printing too, but have you considered Kaizen foam for these drawers? It's a layered foam that you cut to match the outline of the tool with a thin knife. The layers separate easily. It's available with middle layers that differ in color from the outer layers, so it's immediately apparent which tools are missing from the drawer. Mixing and matching 3D-printed holders with Kaizen foam might be more efficient?
My print scraps get chopped and melted into silicone molds, most recently little skulls - I think the molds said they were for fondant but I'm not sure
yes! I was about to say I did show it, but I just realized I didn't include the clip where I showed slamming the drawer to test that everything stayed put. It clears with ~2mm to spare. Sitting on the bottom of the drawer bare it has ~3mm clearance, so the design is pretty close to as optimized as it can get.
I think recycling scrap prints is only worthwhile for huge print farms. Need hundreds, maybe thousands of kilograms of scrap to break even(both economically and environmentally), and you can't get it from other people because you'll get junk in there that will clog nozzles, on top of all the people putting the wrong materials in the PLA bin.
You’re 100% spot on with trying to turn it back into filament. You can technically get it back into printable material, but the quality of that filament will be terrible, and you’ll spend just as much time and energy just trying to dial in the print settings.
My local rubbish dump accepts hard plastics, and it’s only 5 min down the road from me, so I stock up all the big bits and take them down there. I don’t put anything really flexible, it’s not worth trying to convince the long suffering workers down there that these fine strings of calibration print are the same material, they just go in the trash.
I love 3d printed custom storage so much, I don’t know why it’s just so cool. Keep up the great work!
Glad you enjoy it!
That's the kind of drawer that just brightens your day whenever you open it.
Definitely watch that toolbox with the fact that it allows you to have multiple draws open at once... I have seen that style topple over before..
Nice build as always 👍
Great warning to share. Mine has lathe chucks in the bottom and a heavy box on top that sits towards the back half, so I think it would be tough to get it to tip over, but I should safely test my assumption to be sure.
I look forward to your practical ideas and designs for functional 3D printing every week. I am amazed how you find the time to produce the videos and use all of the machinery in your workshop. I am now retired but never seem to have enough time to get everything done. I have left comments before regarding the machine tools you mention in your videos. Machine Tools have been at the centre of my entire working life. I do not have anything like the equipment in your work shop although I am familiar with it, I only have a small lathe and a pillar drill/mill as I have very little interest in making “things” with conventional machine tools after all these years. I came across 3D “rapid prototyping“ machines (I don’t think the term printing was used then) originally in the 1990’s. And have followed the technology since. You mentioned in your last video the amount of wasted material when producing prototypes. My approach is to not print the whole thing to start with, I design the part I want which normally needs to fit or have something from the real world fit to it. Then slice it into small parts that I can test fit to the real world item. For example, I would have printed a sample Morse Taper bore for your lathe centres, then a section / slice to test fit the body of your holders into the drawer and so on until I am almost sure my design will fit before printing the whole thing. This reduces the amount of material and also speeds up the process because the print times are slashed. Even faster when you have more than one printer. Although I will admit sometimes having the whole thing in your hands can change your ideas from what appears on the computer screen. Please keep the videos coming, also can you share details about what you make with the machine tools and woodworking machines and how they integrate with 3D printing please.
It's a struggle most weeks if I'm honest. Thx for sharing your method around prototyping. I did more of that in the past, but there is often value like you said in seeing other parts of it and evolving those as well in addition to fixing the broad strokes. It's a balance. Can't spend too much time on the details that don't matter yet, but if you leave them all till the end you end up with even more iterations :)
Theres shredding projects out there but would love to see your take on building a shredding, recycling setup. Especially considering you're thoughtful and esthetically pleasing design style and the content you could create making parts for it and such.
Turned out great! That ESD mat adds the perfect pop of color to the drawer
At first I didn't think I would like the blue contrast, but it turned out pretty awesome... Even better than all black
Great video! As for recycling, I ship all my PLA to Terracycle. You purchase a box and when it’s filled, ship it back and they recycle it.
Thx for sharing. Hard to stomach the 200 dollars per box to recycle though. I'd fill up one of those boxes in less than a month :(
Haha. Yeah, it only works for me b\c it takes a me a year+ to fill one.
Thanks for the video. It is really helpful to see the design process (and mistakes) others make, even if we're talking about simple parts. Keep it up!
My plan for rejected parts or waste is to collect clean pieces of just one type of plastic (PETG in my case). Once I have a full bag, I plan to take it to a dedicated recycling facility. However, my local Masterspace is making something in this space, so asking your closest Masterspace might be an option as well.
If I could recycle at home, I'd use the recycled filament to make draft pieces or parts where visual and strength properties are not impotent.
clean and color matched to the noga handles :)
Commenting on your thoughts to the surface finish - very shallow angles have to "skip" layer heights. Variable layer height would help here. Printing it all in a very small layer height would take hours. Many slicers feature variable layer height, can recommend with Prusa and Orca slicer.
Could always hit the back of that mat with a little contact cement. If you do only the mat side, you could probably pull it up later pretty easily.
In our area at some of the supermarkets, I guess you call them Malls over the pond, there are big dustbins about 250 litres labelled with the various types of cleanish plastic waste(not for used dirty bottles, that's outside) and also a generic one. These bins go for recycling when full and the proceeds go to local charities, they also have bottle top bins from the likes of milk and fruit juice and similar that is mostly PetG. Being in a busy place they tend to fill up quite fast. Every little helps. The draw is looking good, I quite like gridfinity for smaller stuff but not really ideal for that size and weight of tooling.
yay friday
Sorry for the double view but I had to come back because I forgot to hit that big 👍button!.
When this all started I was asking myself why you did not use the gridfinity system but ... My curent cabinet uses a lot of trays that are 1.5 units and I don't want to combine the different trays.
I love the gripping/anti sliding lips on the taper holders.
maybe dbl sided tape for the blue to help it sit down?
IKEA do an inexpensive clear rubber drawer liner which you can cut to size to put in each compartment to protect the trays and tools. Called Variera
Your main concern is protecting your tapers. You may have a problem with the loose parts sliding over from the left to the right. I think you may want to design some sort of a stop on the left side of the pipe center, to keep parts from sliding right and against the taper.
Ive renamed all of my garbage cans to art bins, makes me feel better when i toss things out
I love 3D printing too, but have you considered Kaizen foam for these drawers? It's a layered foam that you cut to match the outline of the tool with a thin knife. The layers separate easily. It's available with middle layers that differ in color from the outer layers, so it's immediately apparent which tools are missing from the drawer. Mixing and matching 3D-printed holders with Kaizen foam might be more efficient?
I think you should have recessed the other tools too. That would make the space currently occupied by the blue mat available for tools.
My scrap prints etc, I melt down inside a bit of pipe in the oven to make sections of plastic stock that I can use on the lathe.
If the mat doesn't work out, looks like you have some side holes in the drawer that you could lock into.
👍👍😎👍👍
probably should have put the centers at the back of the drawer so you're pulling them out towards you.
I was thinking that too. Could be easier to remove and puts the space for the small trays at the front, making them more accessible. Hindsight, eh?
locking into the front lip of the drawer worked out really nice
Melt and cast is the only practical way to recycle the prints at home.
My print scraps get chopped and melted into silicone molds, most recently little skulls - I think the molds said they were for fondant but I'm not sure
interesting! if you ever make a vid on this, share it with me
maybe if you heat up the blue mat with a heatgun it will stay flat.
I agree about the recycling. Just not worth it.
What 3d cad software is that that you use?
He uses sketchup.
But with some plugins for rounding corners is my gues.
Fusion 360 is also a great and free program to use.
I don't think you closed the drawer once.. does it fit with the new print?
yes! I was about to say I did show it, but I just realized I didn't include the clip where I showed slamming the drawer to test that everything stayed put. It clears with ~2mm to spare. Sitting on the bottom of the drawer bare it has ~3mm clearance, so the design is pretty close to as optimized as it can get.
still no co host ???
lol
@@FunctionalPrintFriday i get it he toots his horn but still please include him 🙏
I think recycling scrap prints is only worthwhile for huge print farms. Need hundreds, maybe thousands of kilograms of scrap to break even(both economically and environmentally), and you can't get it from other people because you'll get junk in there that will clog nozzles, on top of all the people putting the wrong materials in the PLA bin.