RACING OIL FILTER REVIEW (K&N, WIX XP, FRAM Racing)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ต.ค. 2024
- GRASSROOTS RACING APPLICATION: Review of the K&N HP-1017, WIX XP 10290, FRAM Racing HP 18 oil filters. Cutting them open to review what is inside with no bias to sponsorship or other. #texacocamaro #oilfilterreview #racingoilfilter #jasonbottenfield #OptimaUltimateStreetCar #autocross #autocrossr #framracing #wix #k&n
Hands down. The Frame HP series is #1. From NHRA...To super stock eliminater, it's the HP.
PERIOD. Nitro Joe.
Nice video. The oil filter bypass in any factory engine block bypasses the oil filter off idle. So. It really doesn’t matter how great the filter media is. Because if you got contamination flowing in the oil, it’s going to get passed the oil filter no matter what & into the mains, rods & cam bearings if you don’t block off the engine blocks oil filter bypass valve. Only THEN would you be full flowing the oil filter at all times and catching whatever is in the oil. We do this mod to nearly all the performance & race engines we build. And it works. And that is the VERY REASON why we’ve used Fram HP filters exclusively for the past 30 years on wet sump systems. #1 because they’re sealed really well, and don’t split at the seams with oil pressures of over 100psi. Especially on cold start ups. All those other filters mentioned either pop their oil seals or pop the seam open in the filter canister. This stands true for our 1400 hp blown gasoline engines all the way down to the 600-700 hp street engines we build. Fram HP’s are thee best race filter you can buy for a wet sump system. But they work best with the blocks oil filter bypass plugged off. That way NOTHING will get by the oil filter if catastrophic damage happens. I’ve seen this with my own two eyes many many times on competition engines.
i have seen the k&n crack on a polaris ranger after about 500 km.... luckly it got shut down as the customer noticed the leak as he pulled it out of his garage. just gushing out. the crack looked like it came off the spot welded on nut
FYI: Wix XP is a street filter, not a racing filter, the other two are racing filters. Unless you're racing, please see my PSA below.
Thanks,??
Great topic. I ran the K&N filters for a season and a half. Had 12 of them as part of a promotional deal. Never had issues or concerns. When I ran out, I went back to the ACDelco "r" series and currently use the UPF48R. Again no issue or concerns. This is the factory Z06 and Z/28 7.0 liter filter. The LT5 takes the UPF46R. I use Wix filters on the daily drivers and truck that we use for towing. As long as your doing changes after events it should be okay. My concern was failure on track but never have had an oil filter issue. We were at one time doing 8-10 oil changes a year.
Thanks yeah - I may pull a Delco apart as well and see what's inside. Looking good and performing can be widely different. So it might make sense to use what the GM engineers used on the motors...but so far I am impressed with the FRAM Racing...but you never know. I really like the rigidity of the can and plastic vacuum seal on the Fram Racing...just to keep moisture out prior to use (while stored) and on the can, I tend to runover cones on occasion (or alot... :) ) during our "stopping and braking" segment and I have seen the K&N can have a dent in it. So it took a hit and if this FRAM will add protection that's a plus for my application or any AutocrossR application with a remote filter location being exposed on the dry sump setup. Thank you for the comment...I need to review the DELCO filter you mentioned! THX
@@TexacoCamaro the Speed stop portion can be a cone killer. I've smoked a few cones during that. Especially at Barber. Surface temp was near 140 so it got slick after being on the road course. At LSFest it was renamed the flat spot challenge. Which I tend to agree with. I'll be watching to see what you choose.
@@TexacoCamaro the only thing I'm not schooled in is the valve pressure. What's too high for how we use the car? What's too low? I need to do more research on that topic.
I noticed WIX has racing filters but I found due to the size my application uses with the LT5 376cu crate motor...that I cant use the larger filters some use for racing. So I guess this video makes sense for those racing street car applications versus full race car situations. Anyway - hope someone has some comments and maybe some ideas for me.
I never use Fram anymore. The few times I’ve used them, I’ve had several problems with the gasket seal coming off and almost making me double gasket. With 30 years of changing my own oil, Fram is the only one I’ve had a problem with the gasket coming off so easily
And?
In all my yrs of driving and changing my oil, I've had 2 oil filter failures. Both were K&N. Both failures were due to poor manufacturing (sealing ring). I've never had a problem with fram. I was using a fram HP4 on my cosworth Vega. Changed to a K&N because the HP4 was not available. After the oil and filter change on my cosworth, I fired it up and immediately dumped 2 it's of oil on the garage floor. Sealing ring failed. Took that $18 POS back to the dealer for a refund. Will never use one of these garbage filters again.
PUBLIC SERVICE ANNOUNCEMENT: As someone who has worked with multiple filter brands, I am going to tell you what filter engineers have told me ..
NEVER USE A FILTER DESIGNATED FOR "RACING" ON YOUR STREET CAR!!!
The components may seem heavier-duty because they are. However, since life expectancy for racing engines is very short and less resistance to flow means more horsepower, the filter media has been "opened-up" to maximize oil flow at the expense of protection. So you may see markedly higher oil pressure with one of these filters, but it is also letting more contaminant circulate through your engine. If you look under the hood of many racing privateers, they actually run high-quality street filters because they don't want to be tearing down their engines every week or two. You've been warned.
Are the kn racing filters or just hp filters? It appears the media is as good as any regular filter,just a heavy can. But the filter application matters,I once screwed a ford tractor filter freebee from work on my 302 and the pressure dropped upon acceleration!
My oil pressure is 37-40 at 4500 RPM and higher - every application needs to be reviewed. But yes, FRAM Racing is for racing and other FRAM filters can handle other needs...they have a new Ultra Synthetic filter coming out for vehicles. I will be sure to review that in the future. Thank you for the information..but not all motors are built equal.....AND BTW, my motor is an OEM 2019 ZR1 motor....so its raced but an OEM motor...no tune no extras... But I can see your point, but make sure not to put a blanket over all things.
Well. If you really understood engine oiling systems, you’d know the oil filter bypass in the block bypasses the oil filter off idle. So. It really doesn’t matter how great the filter media is. Because if you got contamination flowing in the oil, it’s going to get passed the oil filter no matter what & into the mains, rods & cam bearings if you don’t block off the engine blocks oil filter bypass valve. Only THEN would you be full flowing the oil filter at all times and catching whatever is in the oil. We do this mod to nearly all the performance & race engines we build. And it works. And that is the VERY REASON why we’ve used Fram HP filters exclusively for the past 30 years on wet sump systems. #1 because they’re sealed really well, and don’t split at the seams with oil pressures of over 100psi. Especially on cold start ups. All those other filters mentioned either pop their oil seals or pop the seam open in the filter canister. This stands true for our 1400 hp blown gasoline engines all the way down to the 600-700 hp street engines we build.
You better have a look at your oil
pump orings then. Rule of thumb for any performance application is 10 psi per 1000 rpm’s. LS engines are well known for low oil pressure due to the oil pickup sucking air at the oil pickup tube. Better take a look at that. My 6.2LS engine & a 5.3LS had similar issues. New orings & new oil pump at 70 psi on cold start ups. Never went below 30 psi at idle. And normally made 60 psi at cruise (2500 rpm).
Fram……. “The Orange Can of Death “ !
Fram for the win for sure