I just fill the block with spray foam, when it cures dig a little out and patch her up. You would be surprised what all you can repair with a little spray foam and some body filler, or fiberglass, drywall mud, or cement patch.
I'm repairing a hole for a silcock. The sides need to be filled back in and then drilled to re-mount the faucet. I think I'ma try epoxy putty like steelstik.
I might try that problem I had was first tried it falls down inside the wall. This is slump block lot of lose gravel and dirt on the inside foam doesn't stick all that well. I thought about putting a tube maybe PVC in the hole fill that let it dry with foam then have something I can put the concrete patch up.
I smooth the edges with a wet sponge then I evened the entire patch out before leaving it overnight to dry. The next day it was all smooth and didn't need nothing else done to it!
Wow, did this retired rn learn a lot. I have a garage wall patch job with inner garage and outside wall needing work. I managed to get the 1960 gas heater removed ok and that's where the hole is. Thanks for all the skilled tips
Exactly what I was thinking for a brick wall with 5 big holes. Great to see it works, I was trying to see if somebody on TH-cam already did it ! Greetings from Paris !
That's what you call having experience and being smarter than the block you're trying to repair. Gotta love the old schoolers for sharing the knowledge. Thanks!
Greeting from the Republic of the Philippine Islands. You are on the right track, for sure. May I share a few tip from personal experience? I am an eight year and counting EX-pat in the Philippines. One year into my adventure I purchased an older home as a retirement project. Log cabins in the north east US are a very different animal to the cement block homes we have here in the tropics. First, I saved lids from can goods and like your cardboard, punched two holes for wire. I own a small grinder so I cleaned the outside surface as part of the prep. I like to grind a slight cone shape with the smallest part facing out, the larger part inside the block to help key-in the patching material. Finally, you have the choice to grind a narrow slot at the sides of the hole to aid insertion or bend the can lid just a you did. We do not have "bonderizer" here but we do dampen the hole and use a rich mix. Most walls are plastered with cement but unfortunately the general practice here is to apply the cement directly to the walls. No expanded wire lath is used and hairline cracks soon develop even in brand new homes. I have watched new homes have the hairlines patched and repainted several time before the cracking will stop for a few years. We now have several new methods to get a smooth, crack -free wall plus the option to redo a wall properly with expanded wire lath and a three coat plaster job. One inexpensive tool you might want is a pumice stone. You can get that at the home center or paint store where you purchased your other supplies. It will allow you to easily grind off and smooth up your patches without the need to purchase a electric grinder. Finally, I will comment on finishing the patch. Give it time (at least 30 days) to cure well. If you choose to paint, an acid wash (muriatic acid) and rise with clean water is in order. That removes the surface alkalis that will cause new paint to "chalk" underneath the surface. Once dry, the surface should be first primed with a water resisting sealer. Again, I see so many homes here in the Phils that were rushed to completion, skipping this step. The result is moisture lifting the paint off the wall and over time you will develop paint peeling off of a surface that looks like baby powder under the paint. All of this could have been avoided with proper preparation. Your best friend will be the expert at the paint store or a knowledgeable sales clerk at the home center.
@@esmeesme5268 If you intend to apply paint over cement stucco, absolutely use the acid wash as a prep. The acid wash will also help clean stucco that has weathered and make it ready for the water repellent base coat of primer and then paint. If you intend to refinish deteriorated paint on stucco, haul out the pressure washer or rent one to make the surface prep easy. PLEASE, take great caution if you will be using the pressure washer on staging, it really gets wet and slippery and even a small amount of "recoil" if I may label it that, could cause you to lose your balance. "It is not the fall that hurts, it is the sudden stop at the end." For some folks, it may make a lot of sense to simply hire a pressure washing contractor with the experience to do the job safely. Hope this helps.
Another easy way if you have some insulation batts/rolls, cut a chunk to a good size and stuff the hole with the insulation. Then concrete over, it will take the weight of the concrete no problem and you get some extra insulation value on those spots as a bonus. :)
I did the same thing for a brick building, it worked great! Used a zip tie, Amazon box,Gorilla glue, and Akona PreMixed Concrete/Stucco Patch. If I do it again I’m going to make the layer a little bit more thick,so I don’t have to do a 2nd coat the fallowing day, I’d rather be sanding 😂
Also maybe expanding foam. I did some 2 inch holes in the same cement block with it and it was quick. Just cut off the excess when it dries. That's assuming you aren't going to hang anything on the wall in those spots.
About to do the same thing now on my property already used the expanding foam now trying to figure out if I should use mortar or stucco for the exterior wall. I will definitely check out this product that OP used seems like it works great. Thanks for the video!
I have to fix a hole around a sillcock where someone missed their mark. I’m just going to use expanding foam and let it set up fully then shave it to the thickness of the block then fill it. You could also do your same technique with a mesh wire material.
I've been doing restoration snd demo of concrete for 30 plus years. Im watching you for an idea. So what does that say. Lol. You learn something everyday Doing a job had to solid fill steel door jambs for fire raiting. Had to punch hole in block to fill. I own good size co. We are watching you for ideas. Dont sell yourself short.
Any thoughts on patching a 2” round hole that goes all the way through a concrete blocks? I am going to remove a natural gas pipe that serviced my house. I was thinking about using a plastic bag with the corner cut out and put hydraulic cement in the bag and squeeze it into the hole.
First, do you have to finish both sides? Or is only one side seen? If the holes are perfectly rounded look for a piece of round wood and measure to go from the block to the other side and leave it just short on each side that way you can fill them up and finish them.
Just cut sheetrock with a screw in the middle and put mud on it and pull it against the inside of the wall and mud it in and let it dry. Sand rough areas next day n mud again. Repeat process.
@@youcandothis1961 Put mud on the front of the sheetrock and press it on the inside of the hole. Once you mud around and in the hole n outside, you can leave go. By morning it will have dried. Sand the ridges and reapply mud. Repeat. You can check out other YT videos.
I just fill the block with spray foam, when it cures dig a little out and patch her up. You would be surprised what all you can repair with a little spray foam and some body filler, or fiberglass, drywall mud, or cement patch.
I'm repairing a hole for a silcock. The sides need to be filled back in and then drilled to re-mount the faucet. I think I'ma try epoxy putty like steelstik.
I might try that problem I had was first tried it falls down inside the wall. This is slump block lot of lose gravel and dirt on the inside foam doesn't stick all that well. I thought about putting a tube maybe PVC in the hole fill that let it dry with foam then have something I can put the concrete patch up.
I smooth the edges with a wet sponge then I evened the entire patch out before leaving it overnight to dry. The next day it was all smooth and didn't need nothing else done to it!
Wow, did this retired rn learn a lot. I have a garage wall patch job with inner garage and outside wall needing work. I managed to get the 1960 gas heater removed ok and that's where the hole is.
Thanks for all the skilled tips
Exactly what I was thinking for a brick wall with 5 big holes. Great to see it works, I was trying to see if somebody on TH-cam already did it ! Greetings from Paris !
That's what you call having experience and being smarter than the block you're trying to repair.
Gotta love the old schoolers for sharing the knowledge.
Thanks!
Greeting from the Republic of the Philippine Islands. You are on the right track, for sure. May I share a few tip from personal experience? I am an eight year and counting EX-pat in the Philippines. One year into my adventure I purchased an older home as a retirement project. Log cabins in the north east US are a very different animal to the cement block homes we have here in the tropics.
First, I saved lids from can goods and like your cardboard, punched two holes for wire. I own a small grinder so I cleaned the outside surface as part of the prep. I like to grind a slight cone shape with the smallest part facing out, the larger part inside the block to help key-in the patching material. Finally, you have the choice to grind a narrow slot at the sides of the hole to aid insertion or bend the can lid just a you did. We do not have "bonderizer" here but we do dampen the hole and use a rich mix.
Most walls are plastered with cement but unfortunately the general practice here is to apply the cement directly to the walls. No expanded wire lath is used and hairline cracks soon develop even in brand new homes. I have watched new homes have the hairlines patched and repainted several time before the cracking will stop for a few years. We now have several new methods to get a smooth, crack -free wall plus the option to redo a wall properly with expanded wire lath and a three coat plaster job.
One inexpensive tool you might want is a pumice stone. You can get that at the home center or paint store where you purchased your other supplies. It will allow you to easily grind off and smooth up your patches without the need to purchase a electric grinder.
Finally, I will comment on finishing the patch. Give it time (at least 30 days) to cure well. If you choose to paint, an acid wash (muriatic acid) and rise with clean water is in order. That removes the surface alkalis that will cause new paint to "chalk" underneath the surface. Once dry, the surface should be first primed with a water resisting sealer. Again, I see so many homes here in the Phils that were rushed to completion, skipping this step. The result is moisture lifting the paint off the wall and over time you will develop paint peeling off of a surface that looks like baby powder under the paint. All of this could have been avoided with proper preparation. Your best friend will be the expert at the paint store or a knowledgeable sales clerk at the home center.
Would the acid wash be recommended for stucco also? Thank you for all your info on here, that was terrific.
@@esmeesme5268 If you intend to apply paint over cement stucco, absolutely use the acid wash as a prep. The acid wash will also help clean stucco that has weathered and make it ready for the water repellent base coat of primer and then paint.
If you intend to refinish deteriorated paint on stucco, haul out the pressure washer or rent one to make the surface prep easy. PLEASE, take great caution if you will be using the pressure washer on staging, it really gets wet and slippery and even a small amount of "recoil" if I may label it that, could cause you to lose your balance.
"It is not the fall that hurts, it is the sudden stop at the end." For some folks, it may make a lot of sense to simply hire a pressure washing contractor with the experience to do the job safely. Hope this helps.
I've tried it a couple years ago; it holds up!
Good idea. I'd use some PL and glue the sticks on the back side of the block. Then next day try the mortar.
Great idea with the cardboard. Much appreciated.
I do expanding foam cut it back about 1 inch after dries then go over all of it with stuco repair or something similar
Another easy way if you have some insulation batts/rolls, cut a chunk to a good size and stuff the hole with the insulation. Then concrete over, it will take the weight of the concrete no problem and you get some extra insulation value on those spots as a bonus. :)
I love you for this comment. i have a bunch of holes to fix today and spray foam was going to be a pain before the concrete. have a blessed day !
I did the same thing for a brick building, it worked great! Used a zip tie, Amazon box,Gorilla glue, and Akona PreMixed Concrete/Stucco Patch. If I do it again I’m going to make the layer a little bit more thick,so I don’t have to do a 2nd coat the fallowing day, I’d rather be sanding 😂
Sounds great! I didn’t think of the zip ties. Don’t forget to subscribe!
Also maybe expanding foam. I did some 2 inch holes in the same cement block with it and it was quick. Just cut off the excess when it dries. That's assuming you aren't going to hang anything on the wall in those spots.
That’s another great way of doing it. Thanks for watching! Don’t forget to subscribe.
That sounds like a good idea! I have an outdoor block wall that's got two holes in it. I wonder if that would work and then put quickset over it?
About to do the same thing now on my property already used the expanding foam now trying to figure out if I should use mortar or stucco for the exterior wall. I will definitely check out this product that OP used seems like it works great. Thanks for the video!
From Steve. I learned a lot from you Thank you very much. You did an excellent job. ✌🙂
I have to fix a hole around a sillcock where someone missed their mark. I’m just going to use expanding foam and let it set up fully then shave it to the thickness of the block then fill it.
You could also do your same technique with a mesh wire material.
expanding foam seems genius!
I've been doing restoration snd demo of concrete for 30 plus years. Im watching you for an idea. So what does that say. Lol. You learn something everyday Doing a job had to solid fill steel door jambs for fire raiting. Had to punch hole in block to fill. I own good size co. We are watching you for ideas. Dont sell yourself short.
That is awesome! Thank you!
I actually added steel wool and spray foam for rodents so I think I'll just remove some and that'll be my backing :D
Definitely a good idea. Thank you
Thanks, this is genius. This will solve my problem👍👍👍
Glad it helped!
Thanks for a good idea.
good job mate
Makes sense.
Thank You sir
Thank you
You’re welcome!
Any thoughts on patching a 2” round hole that goes all the way through a concrete blocks? I am going to remove a natural gas pipe that serviced my house. I was thinking about using a plastic bag with the corner cut out and put hydraulic cement in the bag and squeeze it into the hole.
First, do you have to finish both sides? Or is only one side seen? If the holes are perfectly rounded look for a piece of round wood and measure to go from the block to the other side and leave it just short on each side that way you can fill them up and finish them.
Brilliant!
Where in Florida? Looks like a Jacksonville house.
I’m here in Gainesville.
Just cut sheetrock with a screw in the middle and put mud on it and pull it against the inside of the wall and mud it in and let it dry. Sand rough areas next day n mud again. Repeat process.
Not everybody has a piece of sheet rock laying around but they do have cardboard.
@@youcandothis1961 go buy a piece at home depot
Are you going to hold onto the screw and tell the mud dries just saying
@@youcandothis1961 Put mud on the front of the sheetrock and press it on the inside of the hole. Once you mud around and in the hole n outside, you can leave go. By morning it will have dried. Sand the ridges and reapply mud. Repeat. You can check out other YT videos.
How do you "fold" the sheetrock to get it inside the hole? Clearly this is much easier with cardboard.
What glue did you use to attach the cardboard!
It’s called Goop. Thanks for watching!
Would have taken less time to do it properly. Demo those 2 rows of block and than lay new block!
What I was showing is things around the house you could use to patch that cheap what you’re talking about would be hundreds of dollars