@@CheapMechanics101 yea I wouldn’t expect any warranty on any race engine lol .. they are always abused and the manufactures know it lol. But I love the 240 , with the bullet alloy crank .. it’s like perfectly balanced to the 73mm Weisco piston right out the box. It’s such a good setup and so powerful
Paul, my brother and I have a couple cup cars we are looking to build engines for, normally they come with a 420 cc predator stock, they run a real high gear ratio, and can reach up to about 80 mph after a few laps, we are not looking to go that fast top end wise just have some fun in some parking, lots drifting and burning out, they have live axles in them, I was considering one of these engines with a tuned torque converter, my question is being that these carts are heavy. Do you think the torque converter is the way to go and what would be your recommendation for a carburetor?
I have a 360 lift cam with 1.1 ratio rockers but I want to put 1.2 ratio rockers so I can get 432 lift but I don't know what valve springs to get to not get coil bind there is a 60lb valve spring online but I don't know if it will wear out the cam quick. So If I get the 60lbs will they were out the cam quick or no if it will do you know any other valve springs that won't bind at at that lift?
Well you’ll need the +.070” valves and yea the 60’s will run that fine .. you’ll need to cut the pockets to get the duals in there but you don’t need to cut the depth just the ID and OD so touch off with the cutter once you hit the bottom and it’s done
? Paul, when you completely bore out the stock cylinder liner and press in a new sleeve do you bore the new sleeve undersized and then use a torque plate to hone it to size?
@@boosted. correct , cannot run a ring against a boring bar finish. Has to be finished with a hone or a combination of hones in a variety of grits to give the cross hatching for oil.
@@paulskartslifan4206 sorry maybe I didn’t make myself clear do you use a torque plate when you bore the sleeve and also when you finish hone it to size?
Beautiful engine, would love to have one of those.
For $3k ish you can 🤘🏻
Nice piece💪💪💪👍👍👍
Appreciate it brother
Great expo.
Thanks man
WILDCAT 240RS makes crazy power out of the box at $600 (they say warranty, not included bc it’s upgraded)
@@CheapMechanics101 yea I wouldn’t expect any warranty on any race engine lol .. they are always abused and the manufactures know it lol. But I love the 240 , with the bullet alloy crank .. it’s like perfectly balanced to the 73mm Weisco piston right out the box. It’s such a good setup and so powerful
Not out of the box, it doesn't.
I have a wc240rs it idles... Finding a baseline for the jets is a nightmare.
58mm stroke x 72.5mm bore is 239.44 cc's sure enough 😮
That would make a mini-bike run 70mph as you said 😊
Zoom zoom .. 💪
Built me a gx160 stoker I hit 60/61 mph
Paul, my brother and I have a couple cup cars we are looking to build engines for, normally they come with a 420 cc predator stock, they run a real high gear ratio, and can reach up to about 80 mph after a few laps, we are not looking to go that fast top end wise just have some fun in some parking, lots drifting and burning out, they have live axles in them, I was considering one of these engines with a tuned torque converter, my question is being that these carts are heavy. Do you think the torque converter is the way to go and what would be your recommendation for a carburetor?
Top speed is good for clutch. TC for hard launches and bottom end torque … and carb size depends on head but something like a 38mm
I have a 360 lift cam with 1.1 ratio rockers but I want to put 1.2 ratio rockers so I can get 432 lift but I don't know what valve springs to get to not get coil bind there is a 60lb valve spring online but I don't know if it will wear out the cam quick. So If I get the 60lbs will they were out the cam quick or no if it will do you know any other valve springs that won't bind at at that lift?
Its a non hemi predator 212
Well you’ll need the +.070” valves and yea the 60’s will run that fine .. you’ll need to cut the pockets to get the duals in there but you don’t need to cut the depth just the ID and OD so touch off with the cutter once you hit the bottom and it’s done
would be able to do billet heads like surface and stuff?
What do you mean ?
@@paulskartslifan4206 like on your website you have small block head work tab would you be able to do that but with a billet head instead of a cast?
@@515.Outdoors yes. Any head any type.
if i were to purchase one of the 240cc complete tillotson builds will i be able to use a pull start or will i need a starter box?
Pull start up to 3” stroker if cam has compression release (as they do). You can pull start a 550cc big block at 14:1 on methanol easy as pie
How much for you to bore if I already have the block?
$200 with LA sleeve co sleeve
? Paul, when you completely bore out the stock cylinder liner and press in a new sleeve do you bore the new sleeve undersized and then use a torque plate to hone it to size?
@@boosted. correct , cannot run a ring against a boring bar finish. Has to be finished with a hone or a combination of hones in a variety of grits to give the cross hatching for oil.
@@paulskartslifan4206 sorry maybe I didn’t make myself clear do you use a torque plate when you bore the sleeve and also when you finish hone it to size?
@@boosted. yes
This is a 212?
Like it says , a 240cc
Started life as a 212, upgradable to this, 240cc, bigger piston, longer stroke
This is beautiful bro.. keep up the good work! When I'm ready I'll contact you
Sounds good man. Thanks