XBOX ELITE 2 ANALOG STICK JOYSTICK REPLACEMENT CONTROLLER REPAIR
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 พ.ย. 2021
- Hi guys in this video I demonstrate how to replace the analog module on Xbox Elite 2 controller. Im just starting off in the youtube posting game so please bare with me lol. I hope to get better as I go. DISCLAIMER! I do not recommend you perform any repair without some experience having already doing so. Repair at your own risk, Im not responsible for you damaging your controller or hurting yourself. With that said I hope you enjoy the video and can take something away from it. If you have any questions dont hesitate to like subscribe and comment below. Thanks yall
By far one of the best repair vids for elite series 2 in youtube...I wish I came across this before I ruined the green motherboard on mine trying to fix a joystick module...and thank you for explaining the calibration piece. Thanks for the vid...and I will subscribe!
Thx Tyler
Applying torque to the side post that sticks into the potentiometers metal disk is key for anyone trying to center their analog on all the other more basic controllers. I've watched so many videos to know how to do a proper analog replacement if needed. One of the more in depth videos on this. 👏🏻👏🏻
Yes for sure, on the older controllers thats the method I actually use for zeroing in a newly installed joystick, I created a tool thats kinda like a fork that grabs that arm n bends it. Some guys clip the plastic nubs on the pot then zero in by twisting and soldering in that position once its good, others solder resistors to the pins. I like to just bend the arm that goes into pot as youve mentioned. I stick a lil flathead into the hole near the joystick to help support plastic from bending while I torque on the outside arm til it zeros in.
Keep up the good work!
Thx Roger
Honestly this is probably the best fix it channel
Appreciate that
Great video. You did a very good job at explaining your techniques and even your additional info that didn't really have anything to do with the repair actually answered some of my questions that I had. If you would be up for some advice from a casual TH-cam watcher, I would say just watch your camera placement as sometimes it would be covering areas you would be explaining. Since I've been inside controllers I knew what you was talking about, but brand new people to fixing controllers might not. Besides that you seem like you'll have a very successful TH-cam techfix channel if it isn't already (Im watching this video 1 year later since it released). Pretty clear camera zoom, really good explanations, very useful side information, got me to subscribe. Great work dude
Thanks, yes thats one of the things I definitely wanna work on, camera angle and zoom as well as the presentation. Its a work in progress haha, thanks for watching and thanks for the sub
@@mrg1619 Hey, no problem. The fact that even after a year you still manage to read comments and reply shows you're interested and dedicated to your channel. If you dont mind answering, what kind of flux would you recommend for electronic soldering like in the video (or what you tend to use now)? I'm still fairly new to soldering and I believe not having a good brand of flux is causing some of my heat flow issues.
@@jb8478 I use Kingbo RMA-218, Ive also used the Amtech NC-559-ASM-TF and yes you are correct flux definitely makes a huge difference in the quality of the work
Ordering a Scuff, so I'm about to do this to my clapped out elite 2 with sloppy sticks. Figure the worst thing I can do is mess up a controller I won't use anymore anyway. Great video. Wouldn't mind seeing the calibration side for the elite 1 as I have one of those too.
Good tear down, lots of nice info. Wow big solder blobs, tho
Thx, yeah definitely not necessary, I always do tho lol, 1 it confirms for me that the solder flowed down the anchor or pin, the other reason I do it is..although I document by serial number the repairs, its my trademark of sort, verifies its my work and also which module was swapped. I give one year warranty which is nuts so that one way I know “yep thats my work” haha
I do same on my hdmi ports, actually bridging the 4 anchors on both sides of board as well
Great video. Could you share what soldering iron you use?
The setup is Aoyue Int 2900, the desoldering gun is Hakko Fr-301
Low melt is SRA Fastchip. Can use chipquik and regular solder sucker along with braid to do the job as well
awesome video. I'm going to give this a go. Where did you buy your analoge modules from?
www.ebay.com/itm/Replacement-Analog-Joystick-Thumbstick-For-Xbox-One-Elite-2-Wireless-Controller-/233686117785?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
Thanks Derek
This is a great video. My left stick is currently sticking on the y axis with a huge dead zone, so it reads randomly in positive or negative y when centered or gets stuck on y values when used. X is fine. I've opened the controller and tried using compressed air to clean out the assembly but not much luck. Any idea what would cause such "stuck" values on a single axis? Replacing the whole thing seems a bit radical to me but I'm not sure what other path I have right now.
As long as you dont have too much wear on the assembly you can change just the pot. 10k pot is whats needed. What causes drift is usually worn/defective pots. The wiper that makes contact on the inner surface of the pot can be broken or just not enough wiper spring tension to the contact pickup/sensor surface or the contact surface can be excessively worn out. So again you can get away with just swapping the pot as long as the module itself isnt too worn mechanicanically wise.
Do more videos . You have a knack for it
Thank you Harry, I gave it a go to show I was competent to take care of the repairs they needed. Also to help out the community, I plan to do the Series S and X HDMI port replacement vids next. Took a lil away time as my camera guy aka stepson got a full time gig n doesnt have much time. Im gonna see how I do with a tripod haha. Thanks for the kind words.
@@mrg1619 ahh it looks easy when you do it and explain it but from experiance it isnt . Bought aload of soldering equitment meself and some broken items going to have a go and learn myself . Keep it up bud ill be on the lookout for when you post.
P.s get a discord .
So you're saying that the controller that came with the Series X will automatically calibrate itself? I need to replace the stick in the left of the controller, and was gonna buy the replacement off ifixit. Once I replace, I won't need to calibrate or anything? Just move it around a bit? Or do I have to buy a special joystick for the auto calibration?
Yes once you replace with new one and move the stick around a few times on S/X or Elite 2 itll self calibrate. But old worn sticks or bad pots will not. Older controllers like Elite 1 and original xbox one controllers require calibration
What is the tool you showed at 19:09? I recently had my joysticks replaced, and the right joystick's x axis is not reaching 1.0 to the right. The controller isn't adjusting for it. What did you use to make it?
So that tool I made. I took a metal spudger pry tool and used a dremel tool with a cutting disc to shape it and cut a slot in the end piece. The tool is “3 pcs spudger tool” on amazon. Youll spot it there. Originally a 2 ended skinny metal pry tool. Been using it for years to calibrate to near 0 deadzone after module or pot replacement. The other method is using resistors or variable resistors. Look up “drift fix analog stick” on amazon n youll see lil piece you solder to pins and then adjust the screw.
I have the Hakko 301. I’m using your technique, but I’m still having trouble getting all the solder to come off. I cannot get the damn analog sensor to come out.
What size tip are you using on your Hakko 301?
What temperature are you at?
Hi Kirk, stock tip I think is a 1mm, I was using that originally but it kinda was a tight fit on the anchors, In this vid Im using the N61-10 1.6 mm tip. Works fantastic. Im using SRA fast chip but chipquik or any of those will do. Add flux n hit the fast chip with your iron first at like 400 on all pins/anchors. Then come with Fr-301 at 400-450 and hold it over the pin/anchor just a second or 2 and then squeeze that trigger. If the analog doesnt slide right out, do flux lowmelt with iron once more, slightly wiggle them anchors n pins while heating the fastchip to ensure its dropping down the hole to other side because sometimes there will be some holdout original solder lurkin. With the high temps just be careful, dont let the iron or gun stay on the board longer than needed. For resoldering I use 420 on the anchors long enough to flow solder down holes, then use 350 on the pins very quickly as to not damage the pots. Let me know if this helped. Thanks for checkin out my vid.
Thank You for getting back to me. Thinking I need a slightly bigger tip and a little more heat. I got a pair of analogs out of an Elite 2 last night, YAY! It took a couple rounds of resolder and desolder but they finally slipped out. Just need to fine tune my steps. You got me over the hump on this one, thanks again!!!
Can you put a regular xbox series x analog stick, non adjustable torque, onto an elite series 2 controller?
I’ve never tried before or really looked at the differences in thumbstick height so I can’t say for sure it would be compatible but it just might be. The Alps module for regular controllers and Elite series one and PS4 would certainly mount and solder to the series 2 board, but you won’t be able to use the sticks from Series 2 that twist on, you would have to use the elite one style thumbstick or a regular controller plastic thumbstick. Again I think the height might have some implications as to if it fits or not But would certainly mount to the board and have the 10k resistance pots all the same
For a regular xbox controller if a potentiometer is replaced is there any calibration that needs to be done
Yes unless you get super lucky any authentic ALPS module you replace will need calibration in any controller prior to Series S/X models or Elite 2 as they self calibrate. The Ebay or Amazon knockoff modules also usually need no calibration because their neutral position is more forgiving. In other words the stick isnt as sensitive to that initial movement so it dont really drift. In those knockoffs some are more sensitive than others and you can usually adjust deadzone in the game settings so its not the end of the world, but that also takes away some precision from those down range snipe shots tho as youll have to work harder to center the reticle, kinda like driving a car with worn out linkage, you can turn the wheel left to right and the cars still drivin in the same direction lol is a good example. So youll really have to work harder to dial in on target. Hope this helps, thanks for watchin
-Joe
Hey man @Southwest Console Repair I wonder if you can help me on this, I have this controller and in fact I dont want to replace the sticks but my problem is there @ 2:22 - my left stick keep spinning when I'm regularly playing (not the thumbstick) I keep rotating it back clockwise but after short time it spins counter clockwise and I really dont want to send this back to manufacture, I just hope you can tell me what I'm supposed to do with this and why is it not locking when I screw it back?
So the thumbstick base actually screws onto a threaded post. Those threads may be a lil worn. You would need to replace the module and/or the base of thumbstick. Or if you feel its up to your skillset and dont mind it being locked in one place you could add a dab of loctite to the threaded post on the analog then screw the base on it. Loctite will keep it in place. Only con is wont be able to select tension. I personally dont use the tension. I got mine screwed all the way in.
@@mrg1619I guess Imma lock it, thats a good idea actually, thank you very much for the video, the reply and your time!
@@Gunner3K welcome
What tin/lead solder wire do you use?
.032" No-Clean Core Flux 62/36/2
I use a translator, thank you very much!! if you know for sure, tell me on your video 3 minutes 13 seconds (pause) there are 2 blue plates, you don’t touch them, tell me how to remove the blue plate ??? Thanks!! there are 2 screws on the blue plate, I unscrewed them, but the blue plate sits in place.
The paddle board?
what website is that you on to see the controls drift and self calibrate?
Google gamepad tester
So the page doesn’t actually calibrate the controllers, it’s the controller that does this on the series S and X as well as on the elite series 2 controllers, its built in. But on the other controllers you have to calibrate with other methods, and this page allows you to see if you are dialed in or not. It’ll also show you if the analog module is just too worn to calibrate or simply replace a pot sensor n be good to go. It’s a gauge so to speak.
Hey I just fixed mine same right side was having a issue when clicking now moving works but when I click it won’t show
Check the 4 solder points to the board. If the pad that you solder to or the trace was damaged you may need to run jumper wire.
Check with multimeter that when you press the stick you get continuity acroos the pins for that tactile switch/sensor. Also check tactlie pin to pad/trace continuity. Thatll rule out bad tactile or bad connection to board.
What size nozzle are you using here?
Hi, so the stock nozzle on the FR301 is like 1.0mm and its too small, I used the N61-10 (1.6mm) in this video and its ok but I am currently using the N61-17 which is a 2.3mm and it works awesome, nice large bore so it takes all the solder up easily and can be cleaned easier too. Heat setting to 3.5 but use good amount of flux n go fast so you dont burn board
I did replace a new left stick but it's drifting up idk why any help
If it was on the elite series 2 just move the stick around a few times and it should self calibrate, If it’s still drifting then you may have a defective module or poor solder contact. If all thats good then you can use a variable resistor to assist in centering or bend the arm a bit to manually adjust center.
Do you accept repairs? It’s for an Elite 2. How can I email you if so?
I mostly do local repairs, I have had some items mailed tho. Email me at SouthwestConsoleRepair@yahoo.com for more info, thx
Can I send you mine to fix has the same issue
Yes I do offer mail in on the controllers. Text me at 5203585458 for info, thx
-Joe
En el vídeo no puedes ver cómo has quitado la palanca del joystick, cuando estás desmontando la carcasa del mando, ¿cómo has quitado la palanca del joystick?
Se le da huelta como un tornillo. Si batallas usa unas pinsas con cuidado.
Pff.. if they're not damaged, just keep the original potentiometers at all costs.. :| Simply snap them away from the stick assy and replace only that (mechanical) part/assy..
Yes youre right some aftermarket assemblies have crappy parts so best to use OEM ALPS if possible. Know youre supplier n dont just buy some Amazon special for sure. The ones used in the vid I cant say are OEM for sure but are definitely good and havent had any returns yet. On the original (non threaded) sticks on previous models I always resupply OEM thru mouser. These Elite 2 sticks in particular havent been released thru mouser unfortunately.
@@mrg1619 I'm mostly saying this because of the calibration on the individual controller, quality aside. It's now helpful with the Elite controllers and newer XB controllers that you have some dynamic calibration, but that is still based on the initial values stored since the pad left production line, thus based on the original pots values. Changing the default center will also change the linearity of the off-center left/right values and unless you'd plot those values to a graph it's unlikely you'd notice anything bad with just a quick test, but you'd "feel the stick" not "aiming" like with the original while trying to actually play something more.. demanding. Most people would not feel much difference and if they would, they'd only attribute it to having a bad day for gaming (as one does) Keeping the original pots, provided they're not faulty would only leave the mechanical parts tolerance to be a factor into needing any calibration after the swap and since you'd use a brand new, genuine part, that tolerance should be minimal, thus unnoticeable (even to a plotted graph)
@@Costinmusca yeah youre definitely right about that, closest to original resistance on the pots and OE pots is best. Good info, thanks for sharing
@@mrg1619 thanks so much for the awesome video, I learned so much. Which part do you get from mouser for the xbox series x controller analog stick?
@@lemonbalm_tea I ordered a bunch of these last year, dont think these in particular are available no more tho. Theres is a new one I ordered a couple of but I havent verified fitment/compatibility or tried out just yet, still workin thru the stock I have of these ones I ordered last year sometime.
www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alps-Alpine/RKJXV1224005?qs=RiQAlOPxzzAqLSX9lUzx8Q%3D%3D
I ll add a link to the others I havent tested just yet on another reply but if I recall correctly specs are similar. Need to revisit to verify.