I don't know how many of your viewers I speak for here, but I would love to see you make a large transmission line subwoofer for home theater. Please like this comment to show you would like to see this happen! C'mon people!
I have to say, despite the small audience you approach with your videos, you created one of the most amazing channels to watch. Everything you do is so profound, well planned and executed. You have myfull respect!
Yeah, this guy's proving his approach... You can't help smiling when he points out his binaural setup. "This is your left and this is your right speaker." 👏🏼🤔👍🏼👍🏼
Your mic setup to allow Accurate sound through for the listener is by far the best I’ve come across on youtube. I’m very tempted to print and toss one of these together for a small footprint shop radio.
I have a laser sla printer and I had issues you are having. Orientation is important, print at an angle not flat, though this matters on the surface area. Also, I found you MUST mix or shake up the resin very well right before you pour it into the vat. That makes a huge difference. I think the resin separates, if you keep pouring out un-mixed rasin it will get out of balance, chemically. Shake shake shake! I dig your videos!
The Monty Python reference is just amazing. I'm honestly extremely intrigued in getting a standard 3D printer to design some proper enclosures for my bookshelf speakers. I've been making crappy subwoofer boxes for a few years, _trying_ to make the best of my knowledge, but I don't have any of the materials or tools to make a good set of enclosures for the speakers, and no equipment to test the performance. Having 2 massive, ghastly, unpainted MDF, hodge-podge boxes on my desk is not great, and I'm definitely not making the best use of the 20cm/8" subwoofer drivers in each of them. For reference, they're 3-way, with a small sealed upper enclosure for the midrange to give it a bit more "presence". This channel is invaluable to DIY sound tinkerers, and is a wealth of knowledge to get into the more advanced ideas for speaker enclosures and getting the most out of the drivers in question. Needless to say, I'm intrigued how the resin box will go once you've got the replacement :)
Watching your videos has inspired me to purchase a 3D printer! I love diy projects! Right now I'm building my 5.2 office sound system and I wish I had a 3D printer to print my woofer cones and tweeter grills! I'm using 49/64 plywood (didn't know that existed), wood glue, liquid nails,, and 20 year old and worn out hand tools! Glad I got cherry stain and clear coat!
I’ve been highly interested in the software that is being used to modele the frequency response. It seems to take into account the material, shape, etc. It really looks like a complete software. I would like to know what is the name of the software used to make a simulation of your speaker design!
Have you considered large scale fdm printing but using poured 2 part epoxy for the majority of the mass/structure? Basically you would model perimeters for all the positive space then pour to fill them. You could also fill with other pour able materials depending on the properties you wanted. 2 part urethane rubber, Portland cement, epoxy granite, etc.
I was amazed by the resin printer since I've been using a Cr-10S for 4 years and I've never seen one but I'm loving the fact that at the end you eventually use a 3d printer to make it =)
I loved music since I was a little kid, because my dad always played music like Pink Floyd or Queen or AC/DC. You are getting me closer to understand and really live the love for music as I like it to be. Thank you for creating such valueable content. Furthermore, I really like that You began to make speakers with 3D printing.
I have a pair of standard Senheiser 280 over ear headphones and this is the first I knew they were on backwards. The rotational joint above the angle joint makes them so that they don't usually fit on my head.. I doubt you necessarily feel as such but this setup of yours put some perspective on what it means to be an audiophile.
I turned on your vids as a background sounds while finishing front grilles to my subs, and I can´t do that while you talk. So funny, so much of complex informations. At the "middle finger to my intuition" I just exploded. Keep up, awesome work!
If you want to glue the two resin-printed parts together you can just use the resin itself instead of any kind of glue. Love the frequency range chart with those sound samples!
I am looking into making a small bluetooth speaker and came across this small build and really liked the size of this speaker. I noticed in your video you hooked up the speakers in series and have a mono signal going into it. Does this enclosure still work if i hook up the speaker in left and right channels as a stereo speaker?
Just printed a set of these. An interesting experiment for sure, and for such puny speakers it’s impressive the sound you get out of them. That being said I wouldn’t really recommend them, out of all the hexibox projects (I’ve printed several) these sound rather plasticky and there is a distinct tube sound to them. Still, the base extension is totally impressive. and I had a weekend of fun putting it all together, super worth it. But if you’re gonna try just keep your expectations realistic; these drivers are super tiny, and quite cheap, I don’t think any enclosure will really save them from themselves. Of course I could be wrong, and the error might be on my end. Regardless, thanks so much to Hexibass for the incredible content and sharing his work with us all. I bought and learned to 3D print because I wanted to try your projects out and it’s been such a fun/challenging journey.
3 ปีที่แล้ว +1
Taking a guess that the upper-range irregularities may be baffle step?
I have an AnyCubic Photon SLA printer and I found that maintenance on the film was very important. I had a similar experience with the first few prints. Really good, okay, really bad. Once I learned to clean the film I got 15-30 prints per film instead of the 3-4 that I got with the first sets of film. I found that cleaning the film with isopropal and then wiping it dry with Kimtech wipes between every print helped out significantly.
i have used these bmr speakers a ton and one thing that i have found is that they need to be broken in. After they are broken in the wake up and sound fantastic. I would love to see the frequency response on this speaker from where you tested it and after you have run it for 60+ hours.
Even though I have seen you mainly printing enclosures, I would be really interested in seeing you design and create a 2- or 3-way bookshelf speaker (from mdf or wood, sealed or ported, including crossover) - for us to reconstruct. I believe you have the knowledge and the experience to create something outstanding with an incredible value for the money. There are already quite a lot of plans out there, but only few authors are as trustworthy like you.
Pity you did a model on that will barely fit on this sla printer from longer that doesn't seem to be working very well. I have an elegoo mars pro and the stl file will not fit within the build volume of my printer. Don´t get me wrong, it is a fantastic video and I wanted so bad to build this kind of speaker.
Just a guess but, one problem a lot of people have when they're new to resin printing is not mixing their resin thoroughly enough, some resins separate more than others and need way more mixing than you'd think. However I will say I have only ever used industrial grade SLA/DLP/continuous DLP printers so there could be a problem I've never run in to on the lower end printers
you should get some poly-smooth pla that you can vapour smooth with isopropyl to see if smoothing the layer lines effects frequency issues. i would say that the higher the frequency the more it bounces through the system and the higher chance it has to be deformed by the layers of the print
Try a layer of foam or other absorbent material on the face of the enclosure. Alternatively maybe a sheet suspended internally behind the drivers (firm to the walls but splitting the "chamber" in half) may also help with the beaming and may be more effective. I suspect the first resonant chamber has something to do with creating it unless it is a direct driver construction level artifact.
As said before: Orientation matters. Printing out big flat surfaces is not the best idea on a rdsin printer. You should tilt the object a little bit. Also, make sure you have no isles when slicing. Isles are areas where overhang leads to slices with parts of that slice being unattached to already printed structure. Then the printer prints in "thin air". Supports need to added in that case. Regarding the resin: Shake it up and make sure it has the right temperature.
Whoever made the music, made it sound like a record being played backwards. I was more fixed on trying to figure that out than what the speakers sounded like. lol
try at least a 10 -15 degree shift so that the flat surfaces are not parallel to the build platform. also consider making sure the printer resin is warm, so it flows well between layers, if its cold in garage, put space heater , or move to ventilated bathroom.
Egh I'll stick with my thermoplastic printers LOL Between the small build area, toxic liquid resin, cleanup, temperature requirements and additional curing, it sounds like way to much hassle! Lol 😉
@@smartroadbiker As he pointed out, resin printers are better for things when you need insanely tiny details to show. He mentioned D&D mini's and those are usually around 28mm-32mm tall and have not really been all that great when printed with plastic printers. That's why having both types isn't a bad idea, especially as they are getting more affordable. Using tabletop gaming as an example, you use resin printers to print the miniatures, while plastic printers print the terrain. Depending on the level of detail needed, vehicles could be a combination of the two where plastic is used for the bulk of the model, but has resin bits for the more detailed spots.
@@HexiBase My best suggestion would be resin - "painting" the mating surface with resin and curing them together should work. For large parts like this box, two component epoxy should do the trick
I made my own transmission line mini speaker before and learned a lot. All comes to the length of the port and speakers resonant frequency. The speaker will be mixed with amplification of higher octave frequency if the port is not converging. Convergence will act as low pass filtering, thus will only boost low frequencies. My 2 inch speaker can make bass equivalent to 4~5inch sealed box woofer, achieving response of 50~60Hz with 1.5m long PVC tube. I also tired to dampen high frequency noise with layers of paper lining inside the tube. Anyway, I think transmission line design is a great start for newbies as it only use simple Physics concept, although the speaker box might be physically huge in the end.
HexiBase, do you mind sharing the critical dimensions of the enclosure? I would like to make a remixed version of your enclosure with a different form factor but still use the same acoustic structures (i.e. the cross sectional area of the T-line, the length, the volume of the cavity, etc)
One thing you have to watch for with these resin printer is that the LCD screen under the build vat can get damage if you have left over resin crumbs in the vat. As the build plate comes down it can push the crumbs into the FEP and into the LCD screen. Net result is an LCD screen with small holes which shows up as really weird 3D prints. I have a Phrozen Shuffle in which I only got 3 models before these problems showed up. I ended up replacing 2 of these LCD screens at $90 bucks each. On the third replacement screen, I bought a tempered glass protector designed for a Wanhao screen and put that screen protector between the LCD screen and the FEP. No more shitty prints with drop outs.
You are. Such a Savage. When that mid range mid base treble graph came up I immediately said thank you and screenshotted Then you called it out ""take a screenshot" lmao. As basic as this scale is, it's actually kinda hard to find as some who doesn't already understand the scale completely and what hz is considered what range
Some thoughts on those upper band irregularities: Building a small anechoic chamber will help with the accuracy of your measurements. Anechoic measurements never match measurements taken in a space. Also, it is a standard practice to aim the measurement mic directly at the source, although it is a an omnidirectional pressure microphone, they still do have some high frequency directionality due to diffraction from the physical microphone itself.
Can the irregularities be from the drivers mounted at the same depth in the chamber and the right driver sound has to travel farther than the left to get to the port on the left? This may sound dumb but I do not know much about acoustics but do understand electricity and current flow and am applying that to this. I think this because the way the first implosion type nuclear bomb. The core was surrounded by layers of explosives and detonated in way the force was returned to the core with a second and maybe a third explosion timed to where the force is amplified vs. all at once and not increased by pressure waves.
I did see something similar to this printer (Just a bit bigger) when I visited Red Bull Racing in Milton Keynes in 2005. They used it to produce small aerodynamic parts for the air intake of radiators and engine. And probably some places that they did not tell us about.
What you can do to "glue" it together, is put a little of the resin on the joining surfaces. You would do this after cleaning with alcohol and before final cure with the UV light. After all this is done, you should paint it to prevent from "over-curing"
In the sub bass region, where most subwoofers seem to come into play, I’ve found that anything below 30 Hz or so is basically flutter. From around 30 Hz upward the sub bass region becomes musical. In my early attempts at building my own speakers I focused my attention on reaching all the way down to 20 Hz, but after I got my current system, which uses two two way speakers rated from 45 Hz up tp 23 kHz for the mains and 23 Hz up to about 250 Hz for the sub I found that the frequencies any loser than 28 to 30 Hz weren’t really pleasant and not used in music unless the musician is playing a Synthesizer. Then other Musician must be careful about the lower frequencies are used as the Flutter of the lowest audible frequencies can fatigue the listener’s ears. So now I focus on around 28 to 30 Hz for a full range loudspeaker design. Do you agree Pete? Oh, and hey Sophie!
As for the results in the high end, I would guess that the variation in the high end is probably somewhat due to speaker-to-speaker cancellation, but also probably largely due to measuring in a non-anechoic environment, i.e. reflections from various sources are causing peaks and nulls.
Question for you, how would you personally go about designing a Mini Guitar Cabinet? Normally you can't use small speakers because, well tube amps tend to eat them, but I'd love to see what someone who knows what they're doing thinks. (This is for heavy distortion, not clean.)
For a channel not in 3D printing that much ( First video I've seen of yours ). You're video is ridiculously informative, you explained SLA printing better than most do well done !
It would be nice if you could release the design file. I want to print this, but the connections on the front won't work for me. I see that someone mixed your file to put the inputs on the bottom, but he also changed the size of the line. I just want to move the inputs to the back.
What numbers did you calculate out for the "box" behind the drivers, the TL cross-section area and the line length? I work in imperial measures, but can deal with metric if that's what you have. I'd just like to compare with what my old QBasic programs calc out.
you should make a sub-woofer box, it may have to be different section that glue together that create enough volume. something like a 6" woofer, 2-way speaker design.
How did you level the orange? Did you try the Flint Read method for levelling resin printers? A lot of my problems with resin printers went away with that leveling method. I've learned the very slight level problems don't produce noticeable effects unless you go past the halfway point of the build volume's z-axis. Past that, any slight level problems start getting more and more pronounced.
I am looking to build an enclosure like this for use on motorcycles. What are the power input and SPL output numbers. I'm fascinated by your builds and audio knowledge.
set the item with angles will get a much better result, in this case, I would set the corner with the square hole (idk what's that called) to the bottom (last print side) that the resin could come out from the channel
Very cool, I am glad I subscribed. I built some TL floor standing units that support a 10" woofer and a dome mid & tweet. That was 42 years ago. Each cabinet weighs 98Lbs. An Omron calculator did the heavy lifting
I don't know how many of your viewers I speak for here, but I would love to see you make a large transmission line subwoofer for home theater. Please like this comment to show you would like to see this happen! C'mon people!
@@HexiBase try to make it as simple and cheap as you can by the way...
@@nunayafb 😂
love to see one as awell
I would love to see a 10 inch sub 3d printed
@@steweyj6281 12 inch and up. 10 not good for home theater.
I have to say, despite the small audience you approach with your videos, you created one of the most amazing channels to watch. Everything you do is so profound, well planned and executed. You have myfull respect!
Thank you for recording, and showing us a sound profile! I'm so tired of techies giving subjective opinions of sound with imprecise words.
Yeah, this guy's proving his approach... You can't help smiling when he points out his binaural setup. "This is your left and this is your right speaker." 👏🏼🤔👍🏼👍🏼
Dude, I love how you take the time to go into the technical and scientific details - and your accuracy therein! We need more TH-camrs like you!!
Your mic setup to allow Accurate sound through for the listener is by far the best I’ve come across on youtube. I’m very tempted to print and toss one of these together for a small footprint shop radio.
Great work! Hope you get the Longer Orange sorted out.
I have a laser sla printer and I had issues you are having. Orientation is important, print at an angle not flat, though this matters on the surface area. Also, I found you MUST mix or shake up the resin very well right before you pour it into the vat. That makes a huge difference. I think the resin separates, if you keep pouring out un-mixed rasin it will get out of balance, chemically. Shake shake shake! I dig your videos!
This sounds like it could unmix even while it's printing hours long?
REDxFROG up & down motions into the liquid resin of the cured part will mix it again
This is pure gold to my senses. I chuckled at the Matrix cutaway.
😁👍
The Monty Python reference is just amazing.
I'm honestly extremely intrigued in getting a standard 3D printer to design some proper enclosures for my bookshelf speakers. I've been making crappy subwoofer boxes for a few years, _trying_ to make the best of my knowledge, but I don't have any of the materials or tools to make a good set of enclosures for the speakers, and no equipment to test the performance. Having 2 massive, ghastly, unpainted MDF, hodge-podge boxes on my desk is not great, and I'm definitely not making the best use of the 20cm/8" subwoofer drivers in each of them. For reference, they're 3-way, with a small sealed upper enclosure for the midrange to give it a bit more "presence".
This channel is invaluable to DIY sound tinkerers, and is a wealth of knowledge to get into the more advanced ideas for speaker enclosures and getting the most out of the drivers in question. Needless to say, I'm intrigued how the resin box will go once you've got the replacement :)
the quality of these videos are actually insane
THIS IS AN EXCELLENT CHANNEL.
Hexibase, Mr. Thank you. May the force be with you ...and Live long and prosper.
Where's part 2?
Watching your videos has inspired me to purchase a 3D printer! I love diy projects! Right now I'm building my 5.2 office sound system and I wish I had a 3D printer to print my woofer cones and tweeter grills! I'm using 49/64 plywood (didn't know that existed), wood glue, liquid nails,, and 20 year old and worn out hand tools! Glad I got cherry stain and clear coat!
I am always amazed at where PUBLIC DIY has reached, private DIY must easily be 10x
IMHO some of the best produced and watchable content on TH-cam. Thank you and I am so glad I found your channel. Top notch my friend.
I’ve been highly interested in the software that is being used to modele the frequency response. It seems to take into account the material, shape, etc. It really looks like a complete software.
I would like to know what is the name of the software used to make a simulation of your speaker design!
I was just about to comment this, it would make a great video
It's called Hexibase. You can purchase it at Nowhere On Earth.
@@supersteveenglish7340 you're very clever bro and very very funny you should be a comedian
@@braddsouza4 it's his own software. Constantly improving. It's unbelievable what he can do with it & how much he can account for.
HornResp is the best free enclosure sim....this guy has no software to sim the his line
Have you considered large scale fdm printing but using poured 2 part epoxy for the majority of the mass/structure? Basically you would model perimeters for all the positive space then pour to fill them. You could also fill with other pour able materials depending on the properties you wanted. 2 part urethane rubber, Portland cement, epoxy granite, etc.
You could try using gyroid infill and filling the prints with epoxy or polyesther resin
I was amazed by the resin printer since I've been using a Cr-10S for 4 years and I've never seen one but I'm loving the fact that at the end you eventually use a 3d printer to make it =)
I loved music since I was a little kid, because my dad always played music like Pink Floyd or Queen or AC/DC.
You are getting me closer to understand and really live the love for music as I like it to be.
Thank you for creating such valueable content.
Furthermore, I really like that You began to make speakers with 3D printing.
I have a pair of standard Senheiser 280 over ear headphones and this is the first I knew they were on backwards. The rotational joint above the angle joint makes them so that they don't usually fit on my head.. I doubt you necessarily feel as such but this setup of yours put some perspective on what it means to be an audiophile.
Any luck with part 2?
Yes the Orange 30 is a good intro for resin printing and I have had success with small prints only. Good to get you understanding the possibilities!
awwww damn i thought i knew Hi, mid and bass/sub bass but that illistration with the sounds in the background cemented it better than i thought
i loved the 20-60Hz sweep, it caught me out of guard. XD
What's the influence of the materials of the casing? Are softer materials worse?
I turned on your vids as a background sounds while finishing front grilles to my subs, and I can´t do that while you talk. So funny, so much of complex informations. At the "middle finger to my intuition" I just exploded. Keep up, awesome work!
7:49
well well well, how the turntables...
Absolutely love all these experimental stuff coming from a subscriber from back in the day
Been waiting for this content for weeks
If you want to glue the two resin-printed parts together you can just use the resin itself instead of any kind of glue.
Love the frequency range chart with those sound samples!
For best results do this before post curing the model
I love seeing your videos pop up and hearing the end results of your experiments on my sennheisers!
@@HexiBase I know u tested it yourself but I think its a good representation
Love these 3d printed speaker videos hope to see part 2 soon
I am looking into making a small bluetooth speaker and came across this small build and really liked the size of this speaker. I noticed in your video you hooked up the speakers in series and have a mono signal going into it. Does this enclosure still work if i hook up the speaker in left and right channels as a stereo speaker?
Just printed a set of these. An interesting experiment for sure, and for such puny speakers it’s impressive the sound you get out of them.
That being said I wouldn’t really recommend them, out of all the hexibox projects (I’ve printed several) these sound rather plasticky and there is a distinct tube sound to them. Still, the base extension is totally impressive. and I had a weekend of fun putting it all together, super worth it.
But if you’re gonna try just keep your expectations realistic; these drivers are super tiny, and quite cheap, I don’t think any enclosure will really save them from themselves.
Of course I could be wrong, and the error might be on my end. Regardless, thanks so much to Hexibass for the incredible content and sharing his work with us all. I bought and learned to 3D print because I wanted to try your projects out and it’s been such a fun/challenging journey.
Taking a guess that the upper-range irregularities may be baffle step?
I have an AnyCubic Photon SLA printer and I found that maintenance on the film was very important. I had a similar experience with the first few prints. Really good, okay, really bad. Once I learned to clean the film I got 15-30 prints per film instead of the 3-4 that I got with the first sets of film. I found that cleaning the film with isopropal and then wiping it dry with Kimtech wipes between every print helped out significantly.
Think about using TPU filament for enclosures. I've used TPU 64D and had good results
Awesome videos! I think as the frequency goes up, the 2 drivers playing same frequencies will become ragged: especially placed horizinally.
Hi boss. Made two sets of these speakers. Works rather well. Many thanks. Mike in Virginia Beach
I printed these. Nicely done! These will stay on my desktop.
i have used these bmr speakers a ton and one thing that i have found is that they need to be broken in. After they are broken in the wake up and sound fantastic. I would love to see the frequency response on this speaker from where you tested it and after you have run it for 60+ hours.
Even though I have seen you mainly printing enclosures, I would be really interested in seeing you design and create a 2- or 3-way bookshelf speaker (from mdf or wood, sealed or ported, including crossover) - for us to reconstruct. I believe you have the knowledge and the experience to create something outstanding with an incredible value for the money. There are already quite a lot of plans out there, but only few authors are as trustworthy like you.
Once again, an excellent video mate! 👌
Pity you did a model on that will barely fit on this sla printer from longer that doesn't seem to be working very well. I have an elegoo mars pro and the stl file will not fit within the build volume of my printer. Don´t get me wrong, it is a fantastic video and I wanted so bad to build this kind of speaker.
I was thinking about this very idea for a 3D printer... would love to be able to buy this
Most people who are as professional as yourself just can’t seem to make a video that’s informative and able to entertain the way you do
Perhaps it would help if the path wasn't folded into the chamber. IE let it be a long straight trumpet (vuvuzela) shape.
Just a guess but, one problem a lot of people have when they're new to resin printing is not mixing their resin thoroughly enough, some resins separate more than others and need way more mixing than you'd think.
However I will say I have only ever used industrial grade SLA/DLP/continuous DLP printers so there could be a problem I've never run in to on the lower end printers
you should get some poly-smooth pla that you can vapour smooth with isopropyl to see if smoothing the layer lines effects frequency issues. i would say that the higher the frequency the more it bounces through the system and the higher chance it has to be deformed by the layers of the print
Glad to see another build vid in my feed by Hexibase!
Try a layer of foam or other absorbent material on the face of the enclosure. Alternatively maybe a sheet suspended internally behind the drivers (firm to the walls but splitting the "chamber" in half) may also help with the beaming and may be more effective. I suspect the first resonant chamber has something to do with creating it unless it is a direct driver construction level artifact.
You scared the crap out of me when you covered up the vent then talked in my right ear. I was not expecting the talking wile listening to music.
Do make a sell boxes for trucks I'm very interested if so
So if you combine this video with the end of your isobaric loading video, could you make an even smaller t-line?
As said before: Orientation matters. Printing out big flat surfaces is not the best idea on a rdsin printer. You should tilt the object a little bit. Also, make sure you have no isles when slicing. Isles are areas where overhang leads to slices with parts of that slice being unattached to already printed structure. Then the printer prints in "thin air". Supports need to added in that case.
Regarding the resin: Shake it up and make sure it has the right temperature.
Whoever made the music, made it sound like a record being played backwards. I was more fixed on trying to figure that out than what the speakers sounded like. lol
Can you add a latticework to the side that is deforming? This would bring it away from the build plate and possibly allow it to form properly?
Moral of the story of this channel seems to be, manufacturer, test your demo unit before shipping it out for a review :D
Have you considered making a tiny Voight tube speaker ?
I always come her for the technical info, still learning every time I watch. Thx HexiBase and for the old school folks PWK.
The print would have come out much better if oriented diagonally, as resin printer is not the strongest in printing flat surface.
try at least a 10 -15 degree shift so that the flat surfaces are not parallel to the build platform. also consider making sure the printer resin is warm, so it flows well between layers, if its cold in garage, put space heater , or move to ventilated bathroom.
Egh I'll stick with my thermoplastic printers LOL Between the small build area, toxic liquid resin, cleanup, temperature requirements and additional curing, it sounds like way to much hassle! Lol 😉
@@smartroadbiker As he pointed out, resin printers are better for things when you need insanely tiny details to show. He mentioned D&D mini's and those are usually around 28mm-32mm tall and have not really been all that great when printed with plastic printers. That's why having both types isn't a bad idea, especially as they are getting more affordable. Using tabletop gaming as an example, you use resin printers to print the miniatures, while plastic printers print the terrain. Depending on the level of detail needed, vehicles could be a combination of the two where plastic is used for the bulk of the model, but has resin bits for the more detailed spots.
For gluing 3d printed parts I recommend devcon plastic welder over jbweld. It cures faster and is quite strong.
@@HexiBase My best suggestion would be resin - "painting" the mating surface with resin and curing them together should work.
For large parts like this box, two component epoxy should do the trick
I made my own transmission line mini speaker before and learned a lot. All comes to the length of the port and speakers resonant frequency. The speaker will be mixed with amplification of higher octave frequency if the port is not converging. Convergence will act as low pass filtering, thus will only boost low frequencies. My 2 inch speaker can make bass equivalent to 4~5inch sealed box woofer, achieving response of 50~60Hz with 1.5m long PVC tube. I also tired to dampen high frequency noise with layers of paper lining inside the tube. Anyway, I think transmission line design is a great start for newbies as it only use simple Physics concept, although the speaker box might be physically huge in the end.
HexiBase, do you mind sharing the critical dimensions of the enclosure? I would like to make a remixed version of your enclosure with a different form factor but still use the same acoustic structures (i.e. the cross sectional area of the T-line, the length, the volume of the cavity, etc)
I think you should print the shell upside-down, so there's no droop issue on the horrizontal wal
One thing you have to watch for with these resin printer is that the LCD screen under the build vat can get damage if you have left over resin crumbs in the vat. As the build plate comes down it can push the crumbs into the FEP and into the LCD screen. Net result is an LCD screen with small holes which shows up as really weird 3D prints. I have a Phrozen Shuffle in which I only got 3 models before these problems showed up. I ended up replacing 2 of these LCD screens at $90 bucks each. On the third replacement screen, I bought a tempered glass protector designed for a Wanhao screen and put that screen protector between the LCD screen and the FEP. No more shitty prints with drop outs.
You are. Such a Savage. When that mid range mid base treble graph came up I immediately said thank you and screenshotted
Then you called it out ""take a screenshot" lmao. As basic as this scale is, it's actually kinda hard to find as some who doesn't already understand the scale completely and what hz is considered what range
Some thoughts on those upper band irregularities: Building a small anechoic chamber will help with the accuracy of your measurements. Anechoic measurements never match measurements taken in a space. Also, it is a standard practice to aim the measurement mic directly at the source, although it is a an omnidirectional pressure microphone, they still do have some high frequency directionality due to diffraction from the physical microphone itself.
Can the irregularities be from the drivers mounted at the same depth in the chamber and the right driver sound has to travel farther than the left to get to the port on the left? This may sound dumb but I do not know much about acoustics but do understand electricity and current flow and am applying that to this. I think this because the way the first implosion type nuclear bomb. The core was surrounded by layers of explosives and detonated in way the force was returned to the core with a second and maybe a third explosion timed to where the force is amplified vs. all at once and not increased by pressure waves.
I did see something similar to this printer (Just a bit bigger) when I visited Red Bull Racing in Milton Keynes in 2005. They used it to produce small aerodynamic parts for the air intake of radiators and engine. And probably some places that they did not tell us about.
What you can do to "glue" it together, is put a little of the resin on the joining surfaces.
You would do this after cleaning with alcohol and before final cure with the UV light.
After all this is done, you should paint it to prevent from "over-curing"
Hi friend, which app do you use for modelate in 3D before to print in 3D printer?
Best luck from Chile
Just found your channel today and ive already started to binge watch lol!
But i have to ask, has there been any update on sorting the printing issues?
In the sub bass region, where most subwoofers seem to come into play, I’ve found that anything below 30 Hz or so is basically flutter. From around 30 Hz upward the sub bass region becomes musical. In my early attempts at building my own speakers I focused my attention on reaching all the way down to 20 Hz, but after I got my current system, which uses two two way speakers rated from 45 Hz up tp 23 kHz for the mains and 23 Hz up to about 250 Hz for the sub I found that the frequencies any loser than 28 to 30 Hz weren’t really pleasant and not used in music unless the musician is playing a Synthesizer. Then other Musician must be careful about the lower frequencies are used as the Flutter of the lowest audible frequencies can fatigue the listener’s ears. So now I focus on around 28 to 30 Hz for a full range loudspeaker design. Do you agree Pete?
Oh, and hey Sophie!
As for the results in the high end, I would guess that the variation in the high end is probably somewhat due to speaker-to-speaker cancellation, but also probably largely due to measuring in a non-anechoic environment, i.e. reflections from various sources are causing peaks and nulls.
Question for you, how would you personally go about designing a Mini Guitar Cabinet? Normally you can't use small speakers because, well tube amps tend to eat them, but I'd love to see what someone who knows what they're doing thinks. (This is for heavy distortion, not clean.)
I love your channel so much.
Could you please test the material PETG for its properties and how well it is suited for printing speakers?
Works linke pla just use higher infill if it is too light and sounds like tin
For a channel not in 3D printing that much ( First video I've seen of yours ). You're video is ridiculously informative, you explained SLA printing better than most do well done !
It would be nice if you could release the design file. I want to print this, but the connections on the front won't work for me. I see that someone mixed your file to put the inputs on the bottom, but he also changed the size of the line. I just want to move the inputs to the back.
Pressed like just for the break down on the frequency spectrum!!! Dude, you're awesome!
Dude, your videos are excellent! Very well done and always great to watch.
What numbers did you calculate out for the "box" behind the drivers, the TL cross-section area and the line length? I work in imperial measures, but can deal with metric if that's what you have. I'd just like to compare with what my old QBasic programs calc out.
I can't wait to build one of these, I already made two sets of the bookshelf speakers and they sound amazing! Thank you for sharing the files!
you should make a sub-woofer box, it may have to be different section that glue together that create enough volume. something like a 6" woofer, 2-way speaker design.
How did you level the orange? Did you try the Flint Read method for levelling resin printers? A lot of my problems with resin printers went away with that leveling method. I've learned the very slight level problems don't produce noticeable effects unless you go past the halfway point of the build volume's z-axis. Past that, any slight level problems start getting more and more pronounced.
Good video.
Can you make a video of a dirt cheap speaker and see the difference in another enclosure?
Can you design a speeker with like a tweeter and a woofer or even a 3 way speaker? This would be amazing
I am looking to build an enclosure like this for use on motorcycles. What are the power input and SPL output numbers. I'm fascinated by your builds and audio knowledge.
This is so cool! Why did you go from 35mm diameter down to a 20mm diameter? What determines the optimum chamber length?
What are your taughts on stofing damping materials inside sealed enclosures? Which materials should be used
Any idea if the new Tectonic TEBM28C10-4/B is close enough to the A that this enclosure will work with it?
set the item with angles will get a much better result, in this case, I would set the corner with the square hole (idk what's that called) to the bottom (last print side) that the resin could come out from the channel
Wow this resen printer is AMAZING. I can't wait for bigger ones of these to come out todo Dash kits for cars.
Very cool, I am glad I subscribed. I built some TL floor standing units that support a 10" woofer and a dome mid & tweet. That was 42 years ago. Each cabinet weighs 98Lbs.
An Omron calculator did the heavy lifting
Major difference when covering the vent at 13:20 .
Have you looked into the Tang Band's 2" W2-2040 and modeling an enclosure for that? For its size the specs seems impressive.
Can you make a video on how to make the 3D CAD and then how to transfer it to a 3D printer?
I know this is from a year ago but I don’t seem to see part 2?