I don't know how many of your viewers I speak for here, but I would love to see you make a large transmission line subwoofer for home theater. Please like this comment to show you would like to see this happen! C'mon people!
I have to say, despite the small audience you approach with your videos, you created one of the most amazing channels to watch. Everything you do is so profound, well planned and executed. You have myfull respect!
Yeah, this guy's proving his approach... You can't help smiling when he points out his binaural setup. "This is your left and this is your right speaker." 👏🏼🤔👍🏼👍🏼
Your mic setup to allow Accurate sound through for the listener is by far the best I’ve come across on youtube. I’m very tempted to print and toss one of these together for a small footprint shop radio.
I have a laser sla printer and I had issues you are having. Orientation is important, print at an angle not flat, though this matters on the surface area. Also, I found you MUST mix or shake up the resin very well right before you pour it into the vat. That makes a huge difference. I think the resin separates, if you keep pouring out un-mixed rasin it will get out of balance, chemically. Shake shake shake! I dig your videos!
Really impressed with your video quality, editing, story line, the project, your 3D modeling, your sound engineering knowledge.... Wow. Oh and yea, even the sound! 😉
The Monty Python reference is just amazing. I'm honestly extremely intrigued in getting a standard 3D printer to design some proper enclosures for my bookshelf speakers. I've been making crappy subwoofer boxes for a few years, _trying_ to make the best of my knowledge, but I don't have any of the materials or tools to make a good set of enclosures for the speakers, and no equipment to test the performance. Having 2 massive, ghastly, unpainted MDF, hodge-podge boxes on my desk is not great, and I'm definitely not making the best use of the 20cm/8" subwoofer drivers in each of them. For reference, they're 3-way, with a small sealed upper enclosure for the midrange to give it a bit more "presence". This channel is invaluable to DIY sound tinkerers, and is a wealth of knowledge to get into the more advanced ideas for speaker enclosures and getting the most out of the drivers in question. Needless to say, I'm intrigued how the resin box will go once you've got the replacement :)
Watching your videos has inspired me to purchase a 3D printer! I love diy projects! Right now I'm building my 5.2 office sound system and I wish I had a 3D printer to print my woofer cones and tweeter grills! I'm using 49/64 plywood (didn't know that existed), wood glue, liquid nails,, and 20 year old and worn out hand tools! Glad I got cherry stain and clear coat!
I was amazed by the resin printer since I've been using a Cr-10S for 4 years and I've never seen one but I'm loving the fact that at the end you eventually use a 3d printer to make it =)
I loved music since I was a little kid, because my dad always played music like Pink Floyd or Queen or AC/DC. You are getting me closer to understand and really live the love for music as I like it to be. Thank you for creating such valueable content. Furthermore, I really like that You began to make speakers with 3D printing.
I turned on your vids as a background sounds while finishing front grilles to my subs, and I can´t do that while you talk. So funny, so much of complex informations. At the "middle finger to my intuition" I just exploded. Keep up, awesome work!
Great stuff as always. Interesting to see how useful you find the resin printer for things outside of printing miniatures. I guess replacing cast plastic will be even easier with that level of precision.
Whoever made the music, made it sound like a record being played backwards. I was more fixed on trying to figure that out than what the speakers sounded like. lol
I’ve been highly interested in the software that is being used to modele the frequency response. It seems to take into account the material, shape, etc. It really looks like a complete software. I would like to know what is the name of the software used to make a simulation of your speaker design!
For a channel not in 3D printing that much ( First video I've seen of yours ). You're video is ridiculously informative, you explained SLA printing better than most do well done !
I have an AnyCubic Photon SLA printer and I found that maintenance on the film was very important. I had a similar experience with the first few prints. Really good, okay, really bad. Once I learned to clean the film I got 15-30 prints per film instead of the 3-4 that I got with the first sets of film. I found that cleaning the film with isopropal and then wiping it dry with Kimtech wipes between every print helped out significantly.
Very cool, I am glad I subscribed. I built some TL floor standing units that support a 10" woofer and a dome mid & tweet. That was 42 years ago. Each cabinet weighs 98Lbs. An Omron calculator did the heavy lifting
Really like your videos! Thank you so much for all the great detail, I'm trying to get into speaker design, and I can figure out what software you use to model response/material etc. What do you use and or reccomend?
I made my own transmission line mini speaker before and learned a lot. All comes to the length of the port and speakers resonant frequency. The speaker will be mixed with amplification of higher octave frequency if the port is not converging. Convergence will act as low pass filtering, thus will only boost low frequencies. My 2 inch speaker can make bass equivalent to 4~5inch sealed box woofer, achieving response of 50~60Hz with 1.5m long PVC tube. I also tired to dampen high frequency noise with layers of paper lining inside the tube. Anyway, I think transmission line design is a great start for newbies as it only use simple Physics concept, although the speaker box might be physically huge in the end.
I seriously don't understand how you don't have more subscribers. Such amazing content. I thought I was subbed, but I wasn't for past year or so. So, SUBBED! 😁
Have you considered large scale fdm printing but using poured 2 part epoxy for the majority of the mass/structure? Basically you would model perimeters for all the positive space then pour to fill them. You could also fill with other pour able materials depending on the properties you wanted. 2 part urethane rubber, Portland cement, epoxy granite, etc.
I did see something similar to this printer (Just a bit bigger) when I visited Red Bull Racing in Milton Keynes in 2005. They used it to produce small aerodynamic parts for the air intake of radiators and engine. And probably some places that they did not tell us about.
If you want to glue the two resin-printed parts together you can just use the resin itself instead of any kind of glue. Love the frequency range chart with those sound samples!
Even though I have seen you mainly printing enclosures, I would be really interested in seeing you design and create a 2- or 3-way bookshelf speaker (from mdf or wood, sealed or ported, including crossover) - for us to reconstruct. I believe you have the knowledge and the experience to create something outstanding with an incredible value for the money. There are already quite a lot of plans out there, but only few authors are as trustworthy like you.
Just printed a set of these. An interesting experiment for sure, and for such puny speakers it’s impressive the sound you get out of them. That being said I wouldn’t really recommend them, out of all the hexibox projects (I’ve printed several) these sound rather plasticky and there is a distinct tube sound to them. Still, the base extension is totally impressive. and I had a weekend of fun putting it all together, super worth it. But if you’re gonna try just keep your expectations realistic; these drivers are super tiny, and quite cheap, I don’t think any enclosure will really save them from themselves. Of course I could be wrong, and the error might be on my end. Regardless, thanks so much to Hexibass for the incredible content and sharing his work with us all. I bought and learned to 3D print because I wanted to try your projects out and it’s been such a fun/challenging journey.
Some thoughts on those upper band irregularities: Building a small anechoic chamber will help with the accuracy of your measurements. Anechoic measurements never match measurements taken in a space. Also, it is a standard practice to aim the measurement mic directly at the source, although it is a an omnidirectional pressure microphone, they still do have some high frequency directionality due to diffraction from the physical microphone itself.
Man keep up the good work, I'm a second year student in Automation and Computers Engineering and I absolutely love the content, I would love to mess around with audio more, where should I start looking for information and I mean Theory, (more then the dividing of the audible spectre at the beginning) love from Romania :))
Pity you did a model on that will barely fit on this sla printer from longer that doesn't seem to be working very well. I have an elegoo mars pro and the stl file will not fit within the build volume of my printer. Don´t get me wrong, it is a fantastic video and I wanted so bad to build this kind of speaker.
Try a layer of foam or other absorbent material on the face of the enclosure. Alternatively maybe a sheet suspended internally behind the drivers (firm to the walls but splitting the "chamber" in half) may also help with the beaming and may be more effective. I suspect the first resonant chamber has something to do with creating it unless it is a direct driver construction level artifact.
You are. Such a Savage. When that mid range mid base treble graph came up I immediately said thank you and screenshotted Then you called it out ""take a screenshot" lmao. As basic as this scale is, it's actually kinda hard to find as some who doesn't already understand the scale completely and what hz is considered what range
Hi from Spain Pete! I really love your videos and I am always waiting for the next one to come out. I would really appreciate if you could answer my questions. 1- Is there any chance you could share the original 3D model so I can make a couple of mods to fit in some batteries on the side and make it a portable speaker? 2- Is there any mini bluetooth amp out there you could recommend for this drivers that could be small enough to make my portable speaker? Thank you in advance, Carlos.
you should get some poly-smooth pla that you can vapour smooth with isopropyl to see if smoothing the layer lines effects frequency issues. i would say that the higher the frequency the more it bounces through the system and the higher chance it has to be deformed by the layers of the print
Just a guess but, one problem a lot of people have when they're new to resin printing is not mixing their resin thoroughly enough, some resins separate more than others and need way more mixing than you'd think. However I will say I have only ever used industrial grade SLA/DLP/continuous DLP printers so there could be a problem I've never run in to on the lower end printers
What you can do to "glue" it together, is put a little of the resin on the joining surfaces. You would do this after cleaning with alcohol and before final cure with the UV light. After all this is done, you should paint it to prevent from "over-curing"
i have used these bmr speakers a ton and one thing that i have found is that they need to be broken in. After they are broken in the wake up and sound fantastic. I would love to see the frequency response on this speaker from where you tested it and after you have run it for 60+ hours.
I have a pair of standard Senheiser 280 over ear headphones and this is the first I knew they were on backwards. The rotational joint above the angle joint makes them so that they don't usually fit on my head.. I doubt you necessarily feel as such but this setup of yours put some perspective on what it means to be an audiophile.
One thing you have to watch for with these resin printer is that the LCD screen under the build vat can get damage if you have left over resin crumbs in the vat. As the build plate comes down it can push the crumbs into the FEP and into the LCD screen. Net result is an LCD screen with small holes which shows up as really weird 3D prints. I have a Phrozen Shuffle in which I only got 3 models before these problems showed up. I ended up replacing 2 of these LCD screens at $90 bucks each. On the third replacement screen, I bought a tempered glass protector designed for a Wanhao screen and put that screen protector between the LCD screen and the FEP. No more shitty prints with drop outs.
New sub here. 3:29, How did you know I'm doing a "Screenshot"?! 😁 I am just so glad I saw your vids. Though I am not able to do what you just did, at least there is this spark in me that says I can do this in the coming days, with the designs that I have in mind, of course. Thanks! Great video/audio recording and editing by the way. Very clear and audible.
As for the results in the high end, I would guess that the variation in the high end is probably somewhat due to speaker-to-speaker cancellation, but also probably largely due to measuring in a non-anechoic environment, i.e. reflections from various sources are causing peaks and nulls.
you should make a sub-woofer box, it may have to be different section that glue together that create enough volume. something like a 6" woofer, 2-way speaker design.
I am looking into making a small bluetooth speaker and came across this small build and really liked the size of this speaker. I noticed in your video you hooked up the speakers in series and have a mono signal going into it. Does this enclosure still work if i hook up the speaker in left and right channels as a stereo speaker?
![500 บาท สุ่มกินสตรีทฟู้ดริมทะเล หาดจอมเทียนพัทยา 8K [HDR]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/aZLagyZyQE4/mqdefault.jpg)
![500 บาท สุ่มกินสตรีทฟู้ดริมทะเล หาดจอมเทียนพัทยา 8K [HDR]](/img/tr.png)
I don't know how many of your viewers I speak for here, but I would love to see you make a large transmission line subwoofer for home theater. Please like this comment to show you would like to see this happen! C'mon people!
@@HexiBase try to make it as simple and cheap as you can by the way...
@@nunayafb 😂
love to see one as awell
I would love to see a 10 inch sub 3d printed
@@steweyj6281 12 inch and up. 10 not good for home theater.
I have to say, despite the small audience you approach with your videos, you created one of the most amazing channels to watch. Everything you do is so profound, well planned and executed. You have myfull respect!
Thank you for recording, and showing us a sound profile! I'm so tired of techies giving subjective opinions of sound with imprecise words.
Yeah, this guy's proving his approach... You can't help smiling when he points out his binaural setup. "This is your left and this is your right speaker." 👏🏼🤔👍🏼👍🏼
This is pure gold to my senses. I chuckled at the Matrix cutaway.
😁👍
Dude, I love how you take the time to go into the technical and scientific details - and your accuracy therein! We need more TH-camrs like you!!
Great work! Hope you get the Longer Orange sorted out.
Your mic setup to allow Accurate sound through for the listener is by far the best I’ve come across on youtube. I’m very tempted to print and toss one of these together for a small footprint shop radio.
I can't wait to build one of these, I already made two sets of the bookshelf speakers and they sound amazing! Thank you for sharing the files!
IMHO some of the best produced and watchable content on TH-cam. Thank you and I am so glad I found your channel. Top notch my friend.
I always come her for the technical info, still learning every time I watch. Thx HexiBase and for the old school folks PWK.
Been waiting for this content for weeks
Once again, an excellent video mate! 👌
I always love to watch your videos. They are so well done and professional, keep up the great quality😁
Love these 3d printed speaker videos hope to see part 2 soon
the quality of these videos are actually insane
Dude, your videos are excellent! Very well done and always great to watch.
I have a laser sla printer and I had issues you are having. Orientation is important, print at an angle not flat, though this matters on the surface area. Also, I found you MUST mix or shake up the resin very well right before you pour it into the vat. That makes a huge difference. I think the resin separates, if you keep pouring out un-mixed rasin it will get out of balance, chemically. Shake shake shake! I dig your videos!
This sounds like it could unmix even while it's printing hours long?
REDxFROG up & down motions into the liquid resin of the cured part will mix it again
Absolutely love all these experimental stuff coming from a subscriber from back in the day
Really impressed with your video quality, editing, story line, the project, your 3D modeling, your sound engineering knowledge.... Wow. Oh and yea, even the sound! 😉
The Monty Python reference is just amazing.
I'm honestly extremely intrigued in getting a standard 3D printer to design some proper enclosures for my bookshelf speakers. I've been making crappy subwoofer boxes for a few years, _trying_ to make the best of my knowledge, but I don't have any of the materials or tools to make a good set of enclosures for the speakers, and no equipment to test the performance. Having 2 massive, ghastly, unpainted MDF, hodge-podge boxes on my desk is not great, and I'm definitely not making the best use of the 20cm/8" subwoofer drivers in each of them. For reference, they're 3-way, with a small sealed upper enclosure for the midrange to give it a bit more "presence".
This channel is invaluable to DIY sound tinkerers, and is a wealth of knowledge to get into the more advanced ideas for speaker enclosures and getting the most out of the drivers in question. Needless to say, I'm intrigued how the resin box will go once you've got the replacement :)
Glad to see another build vid in my feed by Hexibase!
THIS IS AN EXCELLENT CHANNEL.
Hexibase, Mr. Thank you. May the force be with you ...and Live long and prosper.
Neat small build, these would be great for my daughter's bedroom. Thanks for the great videos!
Watching your videos has inspired me to purchase a 3D printer! I love diy projects! Right now I'm building my 5.2 office sound system and I wish I had a 3D printer to print my woofer cones and tweeter grills! I'm using 49/64 plywood (didn't know that existed), wood glue, liquid nails,, and 20 year old and worn out hand tools! Glad I got cherry stain and clear coat!
Sweet video as always . I was looking into those drivers as a center channel in my vehicle . Keep the vids coming brotha.
I was amazed by the resin printer since I've been using a Cr-10S for 4 years and I've never seen one but I'm loving the fact that at the end you eventually use a 3d printer to make it =)
Pressed like just for the break down on the frequency spectrum!!! Dude, you're awesome!
Yes the Orange 30 is a good intro for resin printing and I have had success with small prints only. Good to get you understanding the possibilities!
Thank you for doing these videos!!!
I loved music since I was a little kid, because my dad always played music like Pink Floyd or Queen or AC/DC.
You are getting me closer to understand and really live the love for music as I like it to be.
Thank you for creating such valueable content.
Furthermore, I really like that You began to make speakers with 3D printing.
I love seeing your videos pop up and hearing the end results of your experiments on my sennheisers!
@@HexiBase I know u tested it yourself but I think its a good representation
This was my first view of your channel. Super thorough, very nice content.
Fascinating as always! Hi Sophie 😊
Great video, as always.
I turned on your vids as a background sounds while finishing front grilles to my subs, and I can´t do that while you talk. So funny, so much of complex informations. At the "middle finger to my intuition" I just exploded. Keep up, awesome work!
I love your channel so much.
Great work 😀
Thanks for sharing 👍😀
Such a quality content, thanks
awwww damn i thought i knew Hi, mid and bass/sub bass but that illistration with the sounds in the background cemented it better than i thought
I printed these. Nicely done! These will stay on my desktop.
Great stuff as always. Interesting to see how useful you find the resin printer for things outside of printing miniatures. I guess replacing cast plastic will be even easier with that level of precision.
I am always amazed at where PUBLIC DIY has reached, private DIY must easily be 10x
Whoever made the music, made it sound like a record being played backwards. I was more fixed on trying to figure that out than what the speakers sounded like. lol
i loved the 20-60Hz sweep, it caught me out of guard. XD
I’ve been highly interested in the software that is being used to modele the frequency response. It seems to take into account the material, shape, etc. It really looks like a complete software.
I would like to know what is the name of the software used to make a simulation of your speaker design!
I was just about to comment this, it would make a great video
It's called Hexibase. You can purchase it at Nowhere On Earth.
@@supersteveenglish7340 you're very clever bro and very very funny you should be a comedian
@@braddsouza4 it's his own software. Constantly improving. It's unbelievable what he can do with it & how much he can account for.
HornResp is the best free enclosure sim....this guy has no software to sim the his line
For a channel not in 3D printing that much ( First video I've seen of yours ). You're video is ridiculously informative, you explained SLA printing better than most do well done !
awesome, video i was interested in learning about resin printing. your work is incredible.
Wow this resen printer is AMAZING. I can't wait for bigger ones of these to come out todo Dash kits for cars.
Just found your channel today and ive already started to binge watch lol!
But i have to ask, has there been any update on sorting the printing issues?
7:49
well well well, how the turntables...
I have an AnyCubic Photon SLA printer and I found that maintenance on the film was very important. I had a similar experience with the first few prints. Really good, okay, really bad. Once I learned to clean the film I got 15-30 prints per film instead of the 3-4 that I got with the first sets of film. I found that cleaning the film with isopropal and then wiping it dry with Kimtech wipes between every print helped out significantly.
another nice one, great job
Very cool, I am glad I subscribed. I built some TL floor standing units that support a 10" woofer and a dome mid & tweet. That was 42 years ago. Each cabinet weighs 98Lbs.
An Omron calculator did the heavy lifting
Really like your videos! Thank you so much for all the great detail, I'm trying to get into speaker design, and I can figure out what software you use to model response/material etc. What do you use and or reccomend?
I think ill download this and try printing it! Thanks. 🙂
Moral of the story of this channel seems to be, manufacturer, test your demo unit before shipping it out for a review :D
You scared the crap out of me when you covered up the vent then talked in my right ear. I was not expecting the talking wile listening to music.
Hi boss. Made two sets of these speakers. Works rather well. Many thanks. Mike in Virginia Beach
This is so damn cool... you've just signed me up to many lost years of obsessive hobbying on many fronts... thanks, ha : )
Very professional
Thank youuuu
All i can say is HELL YEAH!
Great video as always. I wanted to try those and the 35, but ended up grabbing a few visatron BF37 driver's, keen to give this one a print
I made my own transmission line mini speaker before and learned a lot. All comes to the length of the port and speakers resonant frequency. The speaker will be mixed with amplification of higher octave frequency if the port is not converging. Convergence will act as low pass filtering, thus will only boost low frequencies. My 2 inch speaker can make bass equivalent to 4~5inch sealed box woofer, achieving response of 50~60Hz with 1.5m long PVC tube. I also tired to dampen high frequency noise with layers of paper lining inside the tube. Anyway, I think transmission line design is a great start for newbies as it only use simple Physics concept, although the speaker box might be physically huge in the end.
I seriously don't understand how you don't have more subscribers. Such amazing content. I thought I was subbed, but I wasn't for past year or so. So, SUBBED! 😁
Have you considered large scale fdm printing but using poured 2 part epoxy for the majority of the mass/structure? Basically you would model perimeters for all the positive space then pour to fill them. You could also fill with other pour able materials depending on the properties you wanted. 2 part urethane rubber, Portland cement, epoxy granite, etc.
Awwwwwww 😍 Cute baby speakers...
Any luck with part 2?
YES!!! A fellow Davinci Resolve User!!! High five @Hexibase!
I did see something similar to this printer (Just a bit bigger) when I visited Red Bull Racing in Milton Keynes in 2005. They used it to produce small aerodynamic parts for the air intake of radiators and engine. And probably some places that they did not tell us about.
You have some serious gear to test your enclosures, impressive!
If you want to glue the two resin-printed parts together you can just use the resin itself instead of any kind of glue.
Love the frequency range chart with those sound samples!
For best results do this before post curing the model
Even though I have seen you mainly printing enclosures, I would be really interested in seeing you design and create a 2- or 3-way bookshelf speaker (from mdf or wood, sealed or ported, including crossover) - for us to reconstruct. I believe you have the knowledge and the experience to create something outstanding with an incredible value for the money. There are already quite a lot of plans out there, but only few authors are as trustworthy like you.
Just printed a set of these. An interesting experiment for sure, and for such puny speakers it’s impressive the sound you get out of them.
That being said I wouldn’t really recommend them, out of all the hexibox projects (I’ve printed several) these sound rather plasticky and there is a distinct tube sound to them. Still, the base extension is totally impressive. and I had a weekend of fun putting it all together, super worth it.
But if you’re gonna try just keep your expectations realistic; these drivers are super tiny, and quite cheap, I don’t think any enclosure will really save them from themselves.
Of course I could be wrong, and the error might be on my end. Regardless, thanks so much to Hexibass for the incredible content and sharing his work with us all. I bought and learned to 3D print because I wanted to try your projects out and it’s been such a fun/challenging journey.
I was thinking about this very idea for a 3D printer... would love to be able to buy this
Some thoughts on those upper band irregularities: Building a small anechoic chamber will help with the accuracy of your measurements. Anechoic measurements never match measurements taken in a space. Also, it is a standard practice to aim the measurement mic directly at the source, although it is a an omnidirectional pressure microphone, they still do have some high frequency directionality due to diffraction from the physical microphone itself.
Man keep up the good work, I'm a second year student in Automation and Computers Engineering and I absolutely love the content, I would love to mess around with audio more, where should I start looking for information and I mean Theory, (more then the dividing of the audible spectre at the beginning) love from Romania :))
Pity you did a model on that will barely fit on this sla printer from longer that doesn't seem to be working very well. I have an elegoo mars pro and the stl file will not fit within the build volume of my printer. Don´t get me wrong, it is a fantastic video and I wanted so bad to build this kind of speaker.
You could try using gyroid infill and filling the prints with epoxy or polyesther resin
Hi Sophie! Miss ya 'round these parts!
Try a layer of foam or other absorbent material on the face of the enclosure. Alternatively maybe a sheet suspended internally behind the drivers (firm to the walls but splitting the "chamber" in half) may also help with the beaming and may be more effective. I suspect the first resonant chamber has something to do with creating it unless it is a direct driver construction level artifact.
Love the vids!
You are. Such a Savage. When that mid range mid base treble graph came up I immediately said thank you and screenshotted
Then you called it out ""take a screenshot" lmao. As basic as this scale is, it's actually kinda hard to find as some who doesn't already understand the scale completely and what hz is considered what range
Hi from Spain Pete! I really love your videos and I am always waiting for the next one to come out. I would really appreciate if you could answer my questions.
1- Is there any chance you could share the original 3D model so I can make a couple of mods to fit in some batteries on the side and make it a portable speaker?
2- Is there any mini bluetooth amp out there you could recommend for this drivers that could be small enough to make my portable speaker?
Thank you in advance,
Carlos.
you should get some poly-smooth pla that you can vapour smooth with isopropyl to see if smoothing the layer lines effects frequency issues. i would say that the higher the frequency the more it bounces through the system and the higher chance it has to be deformed by the layers of the print
It amazes me that those little drivers have such big sound... and I would like an option top get a hexibase T-shirt.
Just a guess but, one problem a lot of people have when they're new to resin printing is not mixing their resin thoroughly enough, some resins separate more than others and need way more mixing than you'd think.
However I will say I have only ever used industrial grade SLA/DLP/continuous DLP printers so there could be a problem I've never run in to on the lower end printers
What you can do to "glue" it together, is put a little of the resin on the joining surfaces.
You would do this after cleaning with alcohol and before final cure with the UV light.
After all this is done, you should paint it to prevent from "over-curing"
i have used these bmr speakers a ton and one thing that i have found is that they need to be broken in. After they are broken in the wake up and sound fantastic. I would love to see the frequency response on this speaker from where you tested it and after you have run it for 60+ hours.
I have a pair of standard Senheiser 280 over ear headphones and this is the first I knew they were on backwards. The rotational joint above the angle joint makes them so that they don't usually fit on my head.. I doubt you necessarily feel as such but this setup of yours put some perspective on what it means to be an audiophile.
Another good video.
I'd love to see/hear a set of these speekers together with a matching sub in the same formfactor.
One thing you have to watch for with these resin printer is that the LCD screen under the build vat can get damage if you have left over resin crumbs in the vat. As the build plate comes down it can push the crumbs into the FEP and into the LCD screen. Net result is an LCD screen with small holes which shows up as really weird 3D prints. I have a Phrozen Shuffle in which I only got 3 models before these problems showed up. I ended up replacing 2 of these LCD screens at $90 bucks each. On the third replacement screen, I bought a tempered glass protector designed for a Wanhao screen and put that screen protector between the LCD screen and the FEP. No more shitty prints with drop outs.
Great job !
Sick video!
Awesome videos! I think as the frequency goes up, the 2 drivers playing same frequencies will become ragged: especially placed horizinally.
New sub here. 3:29, How did you know I'm doing a "Screenshot"?! 😁
I am just so glad I saw your vids. Though I am not able to do what you just did, at least there is this spark in me that says I can do this in the coming days, with the designs that I have in mind, of course. Thanks! Great video/audio recording and editing by the way. Very clear and audible.
As for the results in the high end, I would guess that the variation in the high end is probably somewhat due to speaker-to-speaker cancellation, but also probably largely due to measuring in a non-anechoic environment, i.e. reflections from various sources are causing peaks and nulls.
Great stuff
you should make a sub-woofer box, it may have to be different section that glue together that create enough volume. something like a 6" woofer, 2-way speaker design.
I am looking into making a small bluetooth speaker and came across this small build and really liked the size of this speaker. I noticed in your video you hooked up the speakers in series and have a mono signal going into it. Does this enclosure still work if i hook up the speaker in left and right channels as a stereo speaker?
Pretty cool. Going to have to print this on my elegoo mars!