Power Drawbar - S02E38
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ส.ค. 2018
- This week we design and build a super simple power drawbar for the mini mill. 3D model available on the website.
Webpage:
www.physanon.com/
Patreon page:
/ physicsanonymous
Music:
Deer Dance by Animal Kingdom
Artlist.io - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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Next step: Redesign it to retract, so the impact wrench is not constantly engaged to the drawbar nut.
"How to join two bodies in Fusion 360" was a great touch. Very very relatable. It's how I'm making it through college.
There's no no shame in researching your problem. Don't reinvent the wheel. Get shit done. You can refine your design later, if it seems like it's going to work. Quick and dirty.
Risky opinion time. I feel like Fusion 360 is the CAD equivalent of mobile gaming.
I tend to agree, in the sector I'm in, SolidWorks is the industry standard for engineering design. Our company is a large manufacturer of bespoke material handling equipment from multi direction forklift trucks to container shuttles, and our engineering department has been using SW from the very beginning.
Fantastic Guys! love the simple builds that make sense. Cheers, Troy
I love the way you guys just jump in and go for it. Congratulation and keep going. A suggestion: a 12 point socket of the proper size will drop right down onto a square nut, find it in 3/8 drive and you will have an instant fix that requires no welding.
That's some elegant fabricobbling!
Thank for the power draw bar plans, it’s finished and its awesome!
This is awesome! Love the simplicity!
You Guys are awesome! Brilliant work and Ideas.
Dude... Lovely. Just started watching your videos a few weeks ago and love the style and approach to making! Well done.
3D printed hold is lot more elegant then my first thought for mounting it, a hunk of plywood and plumbers tape.
Plumbers tape?!?! Surely you mean duct tape! And instead of a hunk of plywood, just use a multi-layer wad of more duct tape. Maybe embed some cigarette butts in the wad if you need more thickness. 😝
Piece of threaded rod and a hose clamp is where i was going
I was thinking use the bolts holding it together and a simple bent sheet bracket....
yea, but that was 10x cooler than a pipe clamp with rubber grommet. I liked the fusion 360 modeling using the image. Nice work as usual!
adam03957 ^ this 👍
Nothing beats the versatility of a lathe and mill. Well done on the restoration of that lathe, efforts well worth spent. Enjoy those machines. Remember NO compressed air around the lathe.
It must be really great and satisfying to have all this kit and the ability to use it.
Simple yet elegant. I like it. 👍
Still waiting for the surface grinder to level the lathe's rails... But all the videos in between have been a great intermission xD
That came out very nice indeed, great job!
An alternative method to making a 3/8's to 3/8's adapter is to take two 3/8's drive 9/16 sockets and throw a cut down chunk of allen key in between them, no welding required but should you weld it you will have better alignment and more "meat" holding it together
Also the sockets you threw on the lathe are perfect for what you did there. Impact sockets are designed to be relatively soft but have more metal so they are strong. They are soft so they deform instead of shatter, which could be dangerous. Its the chrome sockets that are hardened so they last longer and don't wear out quick.
Really enjoyed watching, its cool to see someone approach problems like you guys. Your craftsmanship is amazing
yea or you can buy 3/8 3/8 8 point thats what why they make 8 points, but it not 3/8 its 10 m and a guy just link to a square 10mm
Or buy a 3/8 square socket. No modification needed.
Best auto draw bar I've seen yet. Not the most complicates but that's what makes it great. Done well.
Great job. Love your work.
I was thinking broaching for the first part but the socket adapters are probably the quickest solution. Also that 3d print is slick. Well done!
Very Nice!!! Thanks for sharing. Wish my PM Mill had that type of drawbar. I have to give mine a sturdy whack. I did machine a 6 spline wrench that fits my spindle through which helps get both hands more or less on the same plane which helps with loosening or tightening the drawbar.
Gary 75-Year-Old Home-Shop-Machinist in Northwest Arkansas.
Nice work ! Worked out well and looks like a great solution.
Elegantly done!
12 point socket work on square heads, instead of making the adapter.
didn't expect it will look so neat!
Keep up the work and you'll blast through 100K subs in no time.
That spindle motor is such a little cutie
Another great project. Fusion 360 is such a great tool. You make it look too easy lol
Wow Nice work looks great! I usually grind through the hard part, or stock up on carbides. and keep a carbide specifically for roughing through hard stuff.
Really like your approach to this project. Looks totally professional and not out of place compared to some botch attempts out there
Awesome set up. I just bought the LMS 5500 series mill and will have to do this although my R shoulder is getting pretty buff right now.
Here from Hackaday, well worth the sub!
Good stuff, I wish I had the space for a home shop of my own!
I just tried 3/8 drive 11mm 12pt socket works pretty well as the adapter. It'll save a lot of works.
Ok, I complete mine with a 3/8 drive and a 10mm square pipe cap fitting. Works so well, thank you, thank you.
Very Nice! How about some fancy tubing / hose setup to lower the air supply to the bottom of the machine?
More videos would be awesome too!
Awesome setup! I've got the same mill! I've found a 7/16 SAE 12 point socket fits the drawbar perfectly. I'm gonna try the same setup.
always can use a 3/8 drive 3/8 8 point socket would have more contact.
I went with the 7/16 because the drawbar square drive is actually 10mm where as 3/8 square only comes to 9.525mm. That's why the drawbar square is tight on the 3/8 drive socket. I would have gone with a 10mm 8 or 12 point but I didn't have one. :P
well shit show what i know i thought that would be 3/8.
I just bought this.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008TOHA6Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
be cautious of hardened chips on your machine ways, they can do some damage, maybe make a few leather apron way covers for the future, magnets and leather and a little steel/alum and epoxy works great
Great project. A little over kill on the implementation. Not everyone has a 3D printer.
To simplify, cut off both square ends with an angle grinder, alignment for welding is simple. Use a 1 mm stainless steel plate to mount the wrench via the four screws on the end of the tool. It would be great if the tool could accept the stainless steel plate between the back and the body (perhaps requiring some gasket sealer?). Otherwise four longer bolts/capscrews and four small spacers. Mount the plate to the cover as required. You have provided food for thought on implementation for my mill. 🙂
Great job!
Wow I really admire your Fusion360 skills. That part is a thing of beauty!! If you need to make it stronger you can alway use carbon fibre reinforced nylon like NylonX or some similar product.
Brilliant!
That was awesome! I'm sure you don't get paid enough! 👍🏻😉
I’ve seen all the videos using pneumatic cylinders and Bellevue washers, brackets, hydraulic boosters but this method is right in line with the K.I.S.S. Design criteria. Now granted, I don’t plan to use the Tormach tool holders. This is inline with my hobby machine parameters. Thanks for the video and faith in simplicity.
Very well done.
Great fix!
Excellent!
When I saw your double adapter Idea I thought maybe one of those gimmicky fits all sockets with the spring loaded pins inside. That way you would not have to align the impact when you wanted to remove the draw bar. Not really an issue on your bench top mill, but on a taller mill that the draw bar is above your head it would make it so you would not have to align it by feel.
Yess!
I could literally watch your videos for hours. The only problem is that I already have....
Joli modif bravo !!!🛠😉
Very cool setup. What about the spindle turning the impact? Just wondering how that would work.
Anyone else enjoy the poetry of drilling holes right through the caution label?
wonder if you can use square tube as the adapter
might be able to use the 3d printed piece as a casting model to make an aluminium cast of the same object (think you need to make it slightly bigger to compensate for the aluminium cooling off and schrinking
Brillant!
You may want to get a spot welding tool, that can weld bolts to surfaces. It would make mounting to that casing easier.
I REALLY like this project!😀, i was wondering if this could also be made with a accu drill, instead of the air driven motor, and with some kind of clutch to engage and disengage rge drawbar....?, i will think about it!
nice drillpress👍
That's a really really good idea... Holy shit
Nice addition to the mill. Did the air tool come with specs that could tell you what the torque it puts out as certain air pressures?
Neat job ....... 👍🏻🇬🇧
As always good video....i really wish i had a shop....lol
I bet the printed part will last forever. One thing that I would do it make something to support the weight of the air hose so it's not constantly straining the impact gun.
I agree, on both counts. However, should the 3D printed part not prove sturdy enough.....
makezine.com/projects/guide-to-3d-printing-2014/metal-casting-with-your-3d-printer/
Specifically the section on "Lost-PLA Casting Of Aluminum''. Works fine with ABS, too, but burning out the ABS former prior to casting really stinks. May not be as toxic as it smells but I wouldn't bet on it. Best done outside and as far from any potential complainers as possible. There are quite a few vids on TH-cam showing the process in detail.
That sir was awesome
Can't believe you drilled right through that caution label.
John Baker YOLO!
SCREW THE NANNY STATE!!!!
Nowhere on it did it say: "CAUTION: Don't drill through this label"
Oh no, now you are not safe because you cannot see the caution label............roll out the cotton wool.
It's ok, they had all of the required safety gear on while they did it
Maybe you should use a rubber claw coupling (or somthing similar, that is able to compensate the minimal axis offsets) between the two sockets, otherwise there are a lot of indefinite stresses in the material.
That's building something cool with a 3D printer
print it solid or you can make it out of aluminum by casting. Think they sell this now?! great video bro.
Any chance you can share the stl for this again? The link does not want to work for me.
A very sleek add on. I thought that would end up more complicated.
I totally wnat to make one of these for my Bridgeport!!
My experience with those R-8 threads when you are using the air impact it can wear the threads and i would go with the Bell-ville Washers and air cylinder with the 3/4 R-8 tool holder then just use 3/4 inch shaft tool holders for different size shank cutter. That way i can do change overs with out setting tool depth every time.
A 3/8" drive 8- or 12- point impact socket would've saved you the trouble of welding... But altogether well done.
Do you disengage the impact gun every time you use the mill, or do you just let the mill spin it? I've been thinking of doing this to my Sieg mill, and I don't necessarily see why you'd have to disengage it. You could always wire in an electric solenoid to cut the air supply when the spindle is turning, as an added safety measure.
I wanted to build this, so I ordered the impact driver and found the perfect socket adapter for my PM-25mv. Both are available on Amazon. Search there for Grey Pneumatic 1010FP 3/8" drive x 5/16" square socket. My PM25 must have a different drawbar, because it is 5/16", NOT 3/8". Check yours to be sure. You can order the 1012FP for 3/8" if you have that size or 1011FP for 11/32". It will not be as long as the welded up one he made, so it will not clear the motor housing facing forward. As for that detail and the printed part, doesn't matter, just pick it up, use it, then put it down. There is no need for the printed part at all. My dial is set at #6@100 PSI. END THE MADNESS AND GO BUY ONE OF THESE THINGS! This should be included with every PM-25.
That bracket sure is pretty tho! And hey the PERFECT excuse for me to finally get a 3d printer lol
awesome man.......Midwest machineworks sells an air powered one...with a foot pedal.
Carbide inserts work pretty well on hardened steel at slow speeds. The only reason to soften the steel would be if you had to use HSS tooling like a drill or if you needed to bend it.
Dude... .. when are you guys ever going to finish the surface grinder/lathe grinding project??? It's the reason I subscribed, and I'm quickly losing hope here. A lot of people would like to see how it turns out. Throw us a decent bone please.
I'm thinking about making my own conversion, looks like the pm30 is the most capable for the money? Also! You should do a how to make an automatic tool changer for it next!!
Hi, i am really impressed on how you did the modeling in Fusion 360.......the way you get the picture og the bodie into the three planes.....i am using Onshape, does anybody know if i csn do the same in Onshape?
That's...elegant
did you give up on rebuilding the lathe? last I saw, you were going to scrpe the beds
The relationship between the low speed and high speed pulley's will change the centerline of your mounting fairly significantly, did you try both settings?
If you have a failure on your socket try MMC 5553A54 3/8 square to 3/8 8 point. Been using one on my tormach for a year. Works great and no machining or welding to make.
nice work, for the price of a DRO you might as well diy CNC it :)
You can get special tungsten carbide inserts for cutting hardend
material or a diamond tiped incert
Nice and easy build
Given the torque is limited, the plastic should be reasonably ok
ABS is very easy to solvent weld. You can dunk the whole part in acetone and that will better fuse the layers together. I've sprayed parts with brake cleaner to achieve a similar effect if you dont have a bucket of solvent around.
Love this concept!! where is the .Stl file for the mount available please.....
Thanks!!!
What’s happening with the surface grinder?
Everybody has a lathe,a mill,a 3d printer,and plenty of know how. Great job. Yes I'm mad . Lol
Nice job good idea but I would have used 3m double mounting tape
Another great video - why pneumatic over electric?
Also, back in S02E35 - Small Surface Grinder Part 10 you used a haunting guitar song .. could you please share your music credits?? Thanks!
Small efficiency improvement.. Get a portable air tank to connect to and mount it to the side of the mill so then you won't have the hose running to the mill but only to refill the tank.
As long as the torque is low that 3d print will probably last forever. Ive been consistently surprised at how strong even pla is.
Your music choices are exceptional.
great build i'm going to do this on my round column mill i just had donated to me.. thanx
I like your style
Hi nice build,I have a similar mill ,how do you find yours?Brian from Merseyside England.
Very good man .what it's program used in design?
Very nice and like the 3d printed holder. Instead ofmaking a adapter why didn't you use a 12 point socket?
On my pm25mv I use the tormach holders with the r8 adapter and spring washers with the stock draw bar. Then use a cordless drill to loosen and tighten the draw bar. eventually when I can get the time I will be building it so I can use a air cyclinder.
thats why they make 8 point socket for 3/8 square nut/bolt
Freakin' schweet. also cool shirt. subbed. :)