Great insights here, for life on general, not just climbing. I love the logical and straight forward frameworks that Tom shares, very clever dude. Thanks for uploading!
After that last statement by Tom, I completely understood how he came to create Lattice Training. The amount of detail in their trainings and regiments must be out of this world. Your work is crucial for climbing/sending science and history!
I get the overstimulation the say Tom framed it, but personally I wouldn't extend the advice to others as it seems a very individual issue. Sure, trust your belayer, but the rest, again personally, what I eat or the rope and so on, I couldn't care less. My mind is clear if I'm about to try te RD a project, and it's not an ant in my tomato that'll change that. I am NOT saying Tom is wrong, just that I wouldn't take the advice as universal.
Tom is also usually climbing with double ropes, British style, so any difference is compounded times 2. So if he is used to climbed double 7.8mm, and he is climbing double 10.2mm, it's going to be quite a noticeable difference in drag, clipping, rope flexibility etc. I can totally understand him on that. Harnesses also are quite individual, and can be distracting if you are not used to how they move on you when you move. I think the broader point he is making though is that to get into a head space to try really really hard, 100% effort, 100% focus, usually you need a fairly consistent ritual to get in that zone, because just a little bit of distraction from 100% can be the difference between sending and not at your limit.
@@shawnington with all due respect I'd say your example is disingenuous. Tom is not talking to newbies here. Yes if your friend brings you hemp ropes and roasted potatoes for stoppers you're gonna be 'overstimulated' in the wrong way. When he talks of a 'new rope' I'm pretty sure he doesn't imply going from 7.8 to 10.2, because if Pete does that to him for his proj he knows it's a joke. Remember he also talks of eating the same peanut butter sandwich as another way to not be overstimulated. Again, if Nadal needs his water bottles just so and to touch his pants 20 times at every serve, it's perfectly fine for him. Just that it won't be worth the hassle for most of everyone else, because most of us don't need that level of routine. Personally, what I eat before going for my proj counts for 0 in my prep. It matters that I eat, yes, not exactly what. Yes you want to be 100% for your RP go, but religious routine is only one way to get there, that was my point. Look at sports in general, there are various ways to achieve the same result of complete focus.
He seems to be suggesting everyone identify for themselves those routines and rituals, and his being even the gear becomes a potential distraction, not that everyone gets overstimulated by new gear. There are a ton of these which climbers unaccustomed to long term and truly limit projects are not aware could exist. I know for myself that having to get the attention of or wait on my partner at any point after I say I am ready to tie in then the attempt will suffer, something registers my belayer is not nearly as with me and prepared as I need. Or my safety checks are a rather quick show, here is the knot and there is the belay device and done, for my climbing, but folks who want to count off bends and demonstrate buckles being tight and the device functioning... kills me. Will when they want to climb if that gives them reassurance, but think this is all finding those rituals and practices and keeping this familiar, not keeping gear familiar as with Tom in particular.
Trying my best out here my man! These videos cover a short section of full podcast interviews - so if you’d like a deeper dive into the training Tom is talking about, check out the full episode on the pod. And I’ll keep trying to deliver for ya here as well.
They basically told him to do hangboard and hard boulders ahaha wow what an amazing tips 😂. The thing is that you have a lot of free time, and if you can climb on rock like 4 days a week you have to be handicapped not being able to climb 9a...
Two topics in one video- no doubt. But if you want more context on the training protocols, check out the full chat with Tom on the podcast, and also the first interview with Alex on the pod. Both go in depth on his training in a way that couldn’t be edited down into these short YT vids. Thanks for the feedback!
You are either a gifted climber who himself climbed 9a and knows nothing about training and what is actually achievable for the vast majority of climbers, or a Honnold Hater.@@lucaa4480
You didn't really pay attention then ; -we took the constraints of the athlete in (touring for promotion) -we compared valuable qualities for climbing to an average of the climbers of the objective (9a redpoint) -we came up with several qualities (6,7) where the athlete underperformed -we choose a couple of those qualities to focus on during the available cycle -we combined exercices with either hangboarding or weight lifting and maximum bouldering (note that those are easier to implement while touring ! rather than huge volume sessions, for example...) -the key is to find the balance and cycle between those two approaches So, all in all, complete, sound, argumented approach...
Check Out Scarpa, the official climbing shoe sponsor of The Struggle.
➡ l.linklyhq.com/l/1u1LB
Great insights here, for life on general, not just climbing. I love the logical and straight forward frameworks that Tom shares, very clever dude. Thanks for uploading!
After that last statement by Tom, I completely understood how he came to create Lattice Training. The amount of detail in their trainings and regiments must be out of this world. Your work is crucial for climbing/sending science and history!
Ehh nice Scarpa sponsor congrats! I'm rocking Scarpa Force V as my second climbing shoe and I love em
The point of having a year long or more training goal is critical: too many want to have a goal achieved on weeks or a few months
I get the overstimulation the say Tom framed it, but personally I wouldn't extend the advice to others as it seems a very individual issue. Sure, trust your belayer, but the rest, again personally, what I eat or the rope and so on, I couldn't care less. My mind is clear if I'm about to try te RD a project, and it's not an ant in my tomato that'll change that. I am NOT saying Tom is wrong, just that I wouldn't take the advice as universal.
Tom is also usually climbing with double ropes, British style, so any difference is compounded times 2. So if he is used to climbed double 7.8mm, and he is climbing double 10.2mm, it's going to be quite a noticeable difference in drag, clipping, rope flexibility etc. I can totally understand him on that. Harnesses also are quite individual, and can be distracting if you are not used to how they move on you when you move. I think the broader point he is making though is that to get into a head space to try really really hard, 100% effort, 100% focus, usually you need a fairly consistent ritual to get in that zone, because just a little bit of distraction from 100% can be the difference between sending and not at your limit.
@@shawnington with all due respect I'd say your example is disingenuous. Tom is not talking to newbies here.
Yes if your friend brings you hemp ropes and roasted potatoes for stoppers you're gonna be 'overstimulated' in the wrong way. When he talks of a 'new rope' I'm pretty sure he doesn't imply going from 7.8 to 10.2, because if Pete does that to him for his proj he knows it's a joke. Remember he also talks of eating the same peanut butter sandwich as another way to not be overstimulated.
Again, if Nadal needs his water bottles just so and to touch his pants 20 times at every serve, it's perfectly fine for him. Just that it won't be worth the hassle for most of everyone else, because most of us don't need that level of routine. Personally, what I eat before going for my proj counts for 0 in my prep. It matters that I eat, yes, not exactly what.
Yes you want to be 100% for your RP go, but religious routine is only one way to get there, that was my point. Look at sports in general, there are various ways to achieve the same result of complete focus.
He seems to be suggesting everyone identify for themselves those routines and rituals, and his being even the gear becomes a potential distraction, not that everyone gets overstimulated by new gear. There are a ton of these which climbers unaccustomed to long term and truly limit projects are not aware could exist. I know for myself that having to get the attention of or wait on my partner at any point after I say I am ready to tie in then the attempt will suffer, something registers my belayer is not nearly as with me and prepared as I need. Or my safety checks are a rather quick show, here is the knot and there is the belay device and done, for my climbing, but folks who want to count off bends and demonstrate buckles being tight and the device functioning... kills me. Will when they want to climb if that gives them reassurance, but think this is all finding those rituals and practices and keeping this familiar, not keeping gear familiar as with Tom in particular.
Sad click-bait video that didn't deliver even remotely on what the title promised. Like more than a few of this channel videos
Trying my best out here my man! These videos cover a short section of full podcast interviews - so if you’d like a deeper dive into the training Tom is talking about, check out the full episode on the pod. And I’ll keep trying to deliver for ya here as well.
Non ci credo... Dukepool sei tu? Ti seguivo su Terraria tipo 10 anni fa ahahahha. Hai iniziato arrampicata?
No way man. It's Tom Randall! He's one of the best.
I feel exactly the same
How they trained Alex ? Good title but we got nothing 😅 from it except keep your rope and sandwich for red points attempt 😅😊
They basically told him to do hangboard and hard boulders ahaha wow what an amazing tips 😂.
The thing is that you have a lot of free time, and if you can climb on rock like 4 days a week you have to be handicapped not being able to climb 9a...
Two topics in one video- no doubt. But if you want more context on the training protocols, check out the full chat with Tom on the podcast, and also the first interview with Alex on the pod. Both go in depth on his training in a way that couldn’t be edited down into these short YT vids. Thanks for the feedback!
You are either a gifted climber who himself climbed 9a and knows nothing about training and what is actually achievable for the vast majority of climbers, or a Honnold Hater.@@lucaa4480
You didn't really pay attention then ;
-we took the constraints of the athlete in (touring for promotion)
-we compared valuable qualities for climbing to an average of the climbers of the objective (9a redpoint)
-we came up with several qualities (6,7) where the athlete underperformed
-we choose a couple of those qualities to focus on during the available cycle
-we combined exercices with either hangboarding or weight lifting and maximum bouldering (note that those are easier to implement while touring ! rather than huge volume sessions, for example...)
-the key is to find the balance and cycle between those two approaches
So, all in all, complete, sound, argumented approach...
You clearly didn't watch the video!!