I hope in the next one there's detail on putting the accessories back on because there aren't many videos of that on the internet. i love this series though!
I 100% agree . For my rebuild I took so many photos and still couldn’t get everything back on right . So I believe a nice detailed video will help out thousands of us
love it, and my RX7 (my 4th one) ... but an engineer in almost any discipline would look at the apex seal assembly and say: "That can't possibly work!"...but, somehow it does 😁😁😁
Don't be afraid to use plenty of silicone around those lower legs of the rotor housings. Especially around the tension bolt hole. You seem to be a little frugal down there. 😉
I noticed that too, it might seep around those holes since there was no sealant around the holes. Also, no oil pan gasket needed, I use Toyota FIPG personally, but I know other people use Permatex Ultra Black with good results too.
So should I order the gasket kit or go ultra black or ultra grey gasket maker all the way? Works great on piston engines, better than the paper junk but would like an opinion since it's a raotary and it's my first build.
@joemurcia3527 The main difference with sealing the rotary is that you have seems on the bottom due to the different plates being bolted together. Those are all potential leak points. Proper cleaning is key. Most will just wipe the surface and then use the silicone. That surface has to be absolutely residue free so the silicone can properly adhere to the metal. Use a good acetone or alcohol and rub the surface with a quality white paper towel that's folded. DO NOT rub back and forward because all you're doing is smearing the residue back and forth and not removing it. Wipe one time in one direction, then flip your paper towel to a clean side and wipe again. Your acetone should be wet on the entire towel. Every time you wipe, you should see dark residue on the towel. As long as you're seeing residue, it's not clean, so keep going while using new paper towels. Also, don't try to wipe multiple sides of the engine all at once. I do one side at a time until clean. You're gonna use lots of paper towles. Make sure you clean the oil oan flang the same way. Now grab the black 12 hr Permatex that's designed for oil pans and put a good bead on the engine side. Use your finger to spread out evenly. If you spread out and it's paper thin, add more silicone. Bolt on the pan to proper torque spec and leave that engine upside down for 12hrs so it dries. Too many people turn the engine over to finsh assembly, but the problem doing that is the internal assembly lub will start to leak down the inner walls and enter that sealant section and contaminate your silicone causing leaks. You do this right with a nice flat oil pan that isn't bent and it will NEVER leak.
Keep it up mate, I was weighing up buying an RX8 for some time and stumbled across your channel, and your videos were one of the reasons for me to be so interested in the car! I'm about 1 year into my ownership of an '09 R3 in Red Mica and I've just enjoyed every moment of driving it. Where I live is perfect for this car because there's heaps of windy hills to do the occasional drifting on (That I fully took use of during COVID lockdowns!), the balance of this car is next level! I've fallen in love with these cars and their history, the next project for me is to get a totalled RX7 and rebuild it, although I might consider going all electric (Controversial sure among die-hard rotary fans but in my country, a conversion can be done for far less than what it costs in the US) with that and putting around 900KWs of power in it! Good luck in your journey as an RX-8 owner man, a redline (or 5) a day keeps a rebuild away!
i think its crazy how we are about the same age, but ur 10x more mechanically inclined and have the balls to do this LOL right on. I've done a few things but nothing of this magnitude. Don't wanna break my R3
I think the rx8 is under appreciated and misunderstood. Once you figure out solutions to the factory weaknesses they come with it can be a great motor and the car is very sexy. It's also a car not just anyone should own. I bought 2 lol I think some day they won't be as easy to find and values will go up.
Congrats on your first rotary build. It wasn’t as hard as you thought, right? 😉👍🏻 Hopefully she’ll fire right up and provide you with many km’s of fun. 👏🏻
I just bought a rotary not knowing they was this different lol so I was scared thinking what troubles I’d run into if something happens this video made me realize its easier than a normal engine (to me anyways) so thank you for taking that stress away
I have a feeling it's the 2 thou (0.05mm) side seal clearance that has caused the low compression. I'm clearancing mine at the moment and I've found that pretty much anything under 0.1mm has a chance of binding and not being able to spring back in some cases. Mazda says 0.05mm - 0.15mm but I'm going to be going 0.15mm as my minimum, even slightly over should be perfectly fine.
i know thos comment is a year old but all i can do is pray you did not build your engine like that for your own sake lol side seals should be 1-3 thou of clearance
Great Job Building that engine I learned allot from your videos, just bought my first RX8 and making videos on it as well, just had a starting issue but got it started
Really loved the video man. I've never touched a rotary myself, but it looks like you did well assembling it! Excited to check back to see how well you actually did ;') haha
Rotaries are awesome! I wonder who was the haters that put 2 thumbs down on this video! Shows that this person isn’t a fan of mazda. Good video bro I can’t wait till u put the motor in and show us!!
Awesome video! This series is inspiring me to rebuild my RX-8 engine I have laying around for a future project. I would just like to know what you used to clearance your side seals?
So satisfying to watch. You are doing great! Your content is much better. Work on your script for future improvements, it seems that you improvised your lines or just literally said what you were doing at the time. Can't wait to see this engine start for the first time!
@joemurcia3527 When you reuse parts of the engine, you do, and side seals need a little bit of adjustment even if they are new. Everything is in the workshop manual.
before I say this, if you want, or have a rotary, do you RESEARCH! dont always trust the 1st guy you meet who says their an expert in rotaries. there is a shit ton of misinformation out there. Double check your info, then triple check it. that goes for me as well. pro tip that is almost always overlooked: FILE YOU SIDE SEALS! THEY AREN'T DROP IN! I dont know if you did that, but yea, side seals arent drop in. you need to file them down to proper spec between the seal and the corner seal (.004 is Mazda spec, but you could get away with .002 and get higher compression as long as the seal isn't binding.) another tip for others wanting to do the same thing, use assembly lube and Vaseline (or any other petroleum jelly) not regular motor oil. the reason for this is assembly lube or bearing grease likes to stick to things so it will protect your engine when starting up, and make sure the seals don't wear excessively when running for the first time. the motor will then gradually burn it off, so make sure you also change your oil within 500 miles. When starting a rotary for the 1st time it will have low comp, then slowly build back up to where you want it, another plus for assembly lube is that because it sticks to surfaces, it will keep a tight seal for that 1st startup.
Like the videos so far! I just rebuilt my 04 6 port!! Why did you not go for soild corner seals and no silicone for oil pan? Im jealous of the new rotor housings, let them triangles fly!!!
Hey Mate, really enjoying the series, thanks for taking the time to make it :) Question: what did you use to clearance the side seals? i have seen all sorts of things from jigs in drill presses to hand grind wheel style tools.
there was one around the rear stat gear, not on the iron so you can't see it. It is better to put it on the iron though, it can prevent it from accidentally getting squished.
@@PeterArmour if that oring isn’t in the specific place by design, you will see oil everywhere. He asked of our opinion if it will run or not. Probably it will, but I have no idea about the seals, gaskets, measurements,... not informed in the video. For example: the water o ring seals from the housings are not the OEM. Compression test will the light of a good o bad assembly. Kind regards.
How to rebuild a rotary engine Step 1: Lube...lots of lube.... 😏 Edit: Awesome job with the rebuild! Very insightful and doing it step by step helps all of us who wants to attempt this kind of job 😀 . Cannot wait to hear it purr!
Well you were right and now it's my turn to perform rotary surgery. I'm just about to break it open and have the parts all professionally cleaned. Can't wait it build it back up. I'm not too worried about the motor assembly, it's putting all the crap back on and around the motor I hope I can remember where it all goes lol I've done piston engines but this is my first rotary build, i am pretty excited. I saw another channel where the guy used a ton of Vaseline and not oil as assembly lube , I guess it's whatever works for each person. Did you do any porting or oil pressure pellet upgrade? Anything I should consider or keep in mind to extend the life of the new motor that you did to yours?
For the rx8 there is no need to buy seals other than stock unless you dont want a running engine(rx8 is really finnicky to rebuild). Only time you should go aftermarket is buying deeper rx7 seals for a turbo build.
I plan on getting a fc rx7 rotory for my first car and im trying to grasp the rotory mechanics and what not since I've only messed with a 302 or 351w, thx bro
ALL moving parts need balancing. Trust me. They show themselves as soon as you put on balancer. NEVER believe "they don't need it". Put them on balancer and see for yourself. Otherwise byebye to bearings and say hello to housing chrome chatter marks
I wanted a rotor as a desk ornament...then I saw new ones are US$600. On to my next dream. Might be cheaper to buy a neglected RX-7/8 and disassemble the engine myself.
Aren't the rotors paired specifically with each other due to being balanced on the e shaft.. so really all 3 parts should stay together and should never mix and match from other engines unless machined and balanced properly.
Can you make a video on everything you need to know about owning one? I would like to get one and am currently saving but since it’s a rotary which I’m not very familiar with idk all the stuff u gotta do to it and how often
This is hard to do on a renesis engine. Theres not much to remove on the rotors to correctly balance them so its a gamble. Its also costly($800 just about)
Glad I recommended this video but I have some questions about the build? How much did it cost for everything, best advice for a beginner building one, is it preferable to build one on a engine stand, could you build mine😂?
Thanks for the great video! Question. Where did you order your viton oil pan gasket from? Very hard to find any kind of gasket online and don't want to use sealant.
Hey Japanda. I've been a long time viewer of yours and have a question. My 2009 GT experienced a major overheating late October and literally "warped" the front iron, according to the Mazda technician who examined it, creating a coolant leak and necessitating a new MSP. If I want to achieve around 400-500 HP down the road from a turbo conversion, is it worth considering using an REW (RX-7) 13b instead due to it's lesser base compression? I also want to install a turboxs catless exhaust (legal here in Michigan) but because the REW has a different exhaust port than the MSP I'm afraid it might become incompatible. To note, I will also be having the new engine streetported. Any advice? If you see this and reply, big thanks to you. Love your content.
I am rebuilding an RX-8 engine, but my APEX seals are 178 thousandths wide and 78 thousandths thick. All the seals I see on rebuilding RX8 you tube videos the APEX seals are closer to 300 thousandths. My Mazda is a 2007 RX-8. Why would there be a difference in the APEX seals width?
Built my renesis for turbo it's all complete but for some reason my starter won't start the car it cranks but that's it...ps I can push start it and it starts right up and drives fine any advice would we appreciated thanks..
im having to rebuild mine and its my first rebuild so where did you go for parts? I'm wanting to make sure I'm not having to rebuild it 4 months from now.
This was so therapeutic to watch
I hope in the next one there's detail on putting the accessories back on because there aren't many videos of that on the internet. i love this series though!
Yes! that would be very useful
I 100% agree . For my rebuild I took so many photos and still couldn’t get everything back on right . So I believe a nice detailed video will help out thousands of us
100% agree. The more detail the better!
100%
@@reicalderon2295 ever find anything?
I was screaming NO when you mentioned the side seal clearance, this will be good.
Glad this series exist blew my motor earlier today
Did you disassemble it?
Open heart rotary engine surgery , love it!
love it, and my RX7 (my 4th one) ... but an engineer in almost any discipline would look at the apex seal assembly and say: "That can't possibly work!"...but, somehow it does 😁😁😁
Don't be afraid to use plenty of silicone around those lower legs of the rotor housings. Especially around the tension bolt hole. You seem to be a little frugal down there. 😉
Was that the silicone he was using from the small tube? Didn't let on during video! Cheers
I noticed that too, it might seep around those holes since there was no sealant around the holes. Also, no oil pan gasket needed, I use Toyota FIPG personally, but I know other people use Permatex Ultra Black with good results too.
@@neilcampbell6855 its the right stuff thats the grey one it dries instantly
So should I order the gasket kit or go ultra black or ultra grey gasket maker all the way? Works great on piston engines, better than the paper junk but would like an opinion since it's a raotary and it's my first build.
@joemurcia3527 The main difference with sealing the rotary is that you have seems on the bottom due to the different plates being bolted together. Those are all potential leak points. Proper cleaning is key. Most will just wipe the surface and then use the silicone. That surface has to be absolutely residue free so the silicone can properly adhere to the metal.
Use a good acetone or alcohol and rub the surface with a quality white paper towel that's folded. DO NOT rub back and forward because all you're doing is smearing the residue back and forth and not removing it. Wipe one time in one direction, then flip your paper towel to a clean side and wipe again. Your acetone should be wet on the entire towel. Every time you wipe, you should see dark residue on the towel. As long as you're seeing residue, it's not clean, so keep going while using new paper towels. Also, don't try to wipe multiple sides of the engine all at once. I do one side at a time until clean. You're gonna use lots of paper towles. Make sure you clean the oil oan flang the same way. Now grab the black 12 hr Permatex that's designed for oil pans and put a good bead on the engine side. Use your finger to spread out evenly. If you spread out and it's paper thin, add more silicone. Bolt on the pan to proper torque spec and leave that engine upside down for 12hrs so it dries. Too many people turn the engine over to finsh assembly, but the problem doing that is the internal assembly lub will start to leak down the inner walls and enter that sealant section and contaminate your silicone causing leaks. You do this right with a nice flat oil pan that isn't bent and it will NEVER leak.
Keep it up mate, I was weighing up buying an RX8 for some time and stumbled across your channel, and your videos were one of the reasons for me to be so interested in the car! I'm about 1 year into my ownership of an '09 R3 in Red Mica and I've just enjoyed every moment of driving it. Where I live is perfect for this car because there's heaps of windy hills to do the occasional drifting on (That I fully took use of during COVID lockdowns!), the balance of this car is next level! I've fallen in love with these cars and their history, the next project for me is to get a totalled RX7 and rebuild it, although I might consider going all electric (Controversial sure among die-hard rotary fans but in my country, a conversion can be done for far less than what it costs in the US) with that and putting around 900KWs of power in it! Good luck in your journey as an RX-8 owner man, a redline (or 5) a day keeps a rebuild away!
i think its crazy how we are about the same age, but ur 10x more mechanically inclined and have the balls to do this LOL right on. I've done a few things but nothing of this magnitude. Don't wanna break my R3
Holy shit how am I this early and why does TH-cam know that I wanto buy an RX8 someday
Facts
the reason why wankel failed to replace the conventional inline-4 engine that we all use, is because of its terrible gas mileage and oil consumption
not a dream, you can pick a good one in your area for probably less than 5k
don't
I think the rx8 is under appreciated and misunderstood. Once you figure out solutions to the factory weaknesses they come with it can be a great motor and the car is very sexy. It's also a car not just anyone should own. I bought 2 lol
I think some day they won't be as easy to find and values will go up.
Congrats on your first rotary build. It wasn’t as hard as you thought, right? 😉👍🏻
Hopefully she’ll fire right up and provide you with many km’s of fun. 👏🏻
I just bought a rotary not knowing they was this different lol so I was scared thinking what troubles I’d run into if something happens this video made me realize its easier than a normal engine (to me anyways) so thank you for taking that stress away
I would bé scared to miss putting the Apex seals well...
Once you understand them a little bit they become a lot less then typical piston motors a lot less moving parts involved
I have a feeling it's the 2 thou (0.05mm) side seal clearance that has caused the low compression.
I'm clearancing mine at the moment and I've found that pretty much anything under 0.1mm has a chance of binding and not being able to spring back in some cases.
Mazda says 0.05mm - 0.15mm but I'm going to be going 0.15mm as my minimum, even slightly over should be perfectly fine.
i know thos comment is a year old but all i can do is pray you did not build your engine like that for your own sake lol side seals should be 1-3 thou of clearance
@@jamfd3s788he’s Keepin rx8s cheap
Dang it. Making me want a rx8!
your making this rebuild look totally do able! 🤘 thanks for bringing me along for the rebuild G
Been watching this channel for long time, Recently bought a Rx8 and this broken Rx8 series came up perfect timing
Great Job Building that engine I learned allot from your videos, just bought my first RX8 and making videos on it as well, just had a starting issue but got it started
Sweet!
Perfect early morning content
9:08 ... hopefully you put the rubber o-ring for the stat gear... its hard to tell on camera.
Really loved the video man. I've never touched a rotary myself, but it looks like you did well assembling it! Excited to check back to see how well you actually did ;') haha
Very useful for my rebuild, hope I got still many many km until rebuild 😊greetings from Germany SE3P 250hp
I just rebuilt my Rx8 engine myself last weekend too 😂 got it built and back in the car and started within a weekend
friend o mine just bought an RX8 at auction ...... so i know im gonna need this quick tutorial xD
i love this build love mazda. you are going great keep going 👍
Rotaries are awesome!
I wonder who was the haters that put 2 thumbs down on this video!
Shows that this person isn’t a fan of mazda.
Good video bro I can’t wait till u put the motor in and show us!!
It’s because he assembled it a bit wrong, and skipped a lot of useful parts that could’ve been on film
Yess you upload again!!
love your content, awesome video, long live rotary engines
Awesome video! This series is inspiring me to rebuild my RX-8 engine I have laying around for a future project. I would just like to know what you used to clearance your side seals?
The opening line was so true 👍
So satisfying to watch.
You are doing great! Your content is much better.
Work on your script for future improvements, it seems that you improvised your lines or just literally said what you were doing at the time.
Can't wait to see this engine start for the first time!
I'll be doing this soon. My rx8 is doing great but I want to build the next engine myself. Have it as a backup ready to go.
I hope before you assembled the engine, you checked clearances and if all parts were in spec.
I thought that was mainly in piston motors you check clearances and junk lol
@joemurcia3527 When you reuse parts of the engine, you do, and side seals need a little bit of adjustment even if they are new. Everything is in the workshop manual.
before I say this, if you want, or have a rotary, do you RESEARCH! dont always trust the 1st guy you meet who says their an expert in rotaries. there is a shit ton of misinformation out there. Double check your info, then triple check it. that goes for me as well.
pro tip that is almost always overlooked: FILE YOU SIDE SEALS! THEY AREN'T DROP IN! I dont know if you did that, but yea, side seals arent drop in. you need to file them down to proper spec between the seal and the corner seal (.004 is Mazda spec, but you could get away with .002 and get higher compression as long as the seal isn't binding.)
another tip for others wanting to do the same thing, use assembly lube and Vaseline (or any other petroleum jelly) not regular motor oil. the reason for this is assembly lube or bearing grease likes to stick to things so it will protect your engine when starting up, and make sure the seals don't wear excessively when running for the first time. the motor will then gradually burn it off, so make sure you also change your oil within 500 miles. When starting a rotary for the 1st time it will have low comp, then slowly build back up to where you want it, another plus for assembly lube is that because it sticks to surfaces, it will keep a tight seal for that 1st startup.
Awesome video man, great job on rebuilding it. Can wait till next week to see that baby fire up for her first time 🤞🏽
Like the videos so far! I just rebuilt my 04 6 port!! Why did you not go for soild corner seals and no silicone for oil pan? Im jealous of the new rotor housings, let them triangles fly!!!
I’ve seen guys use rubber bands to hold the apex seals in place when you are putting the rotor in the housing.
my man !! been waiting for this one ! :D
Good luck with the rebuild .
you wer concentrating mate ! great work 👍
Very impressive! How did you learn to build engines?
I suppose maybe with someone who showed him before or with the worshop manuels vidéo etc
Nice work!! Look forward to see the white smoke, from all vaseline, next week...
Just to aks, the oil used for the rottor housing is the one that you use for the car right, just to be sure.
Made it look easy. nice work.
The only problem with 13Bs is the housings are getting so expensive...
Love my rx8 had it 8 years
Yesss! I click like on these vids before they even start!
Love to see on the rotary rx8 rebuild
I've been waiting for this moment. 🍿 😀
Hey Mate, really enjoying the series, thanks for taking the time to make it :) Question: what did you use to clearance the side seals? i have seen all sorts of things from jigs in drill presses to hand grind wheel style tools.
did you forget to put the O ring in on the rear gear?
looks like he did
Really very good explined for engine rx8
In 9:13 I can’t see if there is the o ring in the iron that seal against the stationary gear. Can you confirm that?
there was one around the rear stat gear, not on the iron so you can't see it. It is better to put it on the iron though, it can prevent it from accidentally getting squished.
@@PeterArmour if that oring isn’t in the specific place by design, you will see oil everywhere.
He asked of our opinion if it will run or not. Probably it will, but I have no idea about the seals, gaskets, measurements,... not informed in the video. For example: the water o ring seals from the housings are not the OEM.
Compression test will the light of a good o bad assembly.
Kind regards.
I seen vasaline and knew I'd watch it all.
How to rebuild a rotary engine
Step 1: Lube...lots of lube.... 😏
Edit: Awesome job with the rebuild! Very insightful and doing it step by step helps all of us who wants to attempt this kind of job 😀 . Cannot wait to hear it purr!
You didn't put grease on the back or front seal and no silicon on the pan 🙄
My thoughts exactly
Well you were right and now it's my turn to perform rotary surgery. I'm just about to break it open and have the parts all professionally cleaned. Can't wait it build it back up. I'm not too worried about the motor assembly, it's putting all the crap back on and around the motor I hope I can remember where it all goes lol
I've done piston engines but this is my first rotary build, i am pretty excited. I saw another channel where the guy used a ton of Vaseline and not oil as assembly lube , I guess it's whatever works for each person. Did you do any porting or oil pressure pellet upgrade? Anything I should consider or keep in mind to extend the life of the new motor that you did to yours?
wish he did a video on clearancing rotors but well done love the video
Hey my friend! Your video it's to Short 🤣 I hope the next video is 20 or 30minute to watch🤪✌✌
Beautiful video❤
"Bunch of lube "... haha, that's what she said 🥴
hilarious.
I wanted to see it drove actually and this was on my recommendation
Don't you think that other seals maybe better? RA seals or goopy?
For the rx8 there is no need to buy seals other than stock unless you dont want a running engine(rx8 is really finnicky to rebuild). Only time you should go aftermarket is buying deeper rx7 seals for a turbo build.
I plan on getting a fc rx7 rotory for my first car and im trying to grasp the rotory mechanics and what not since I've only messed with a 302 or 351w, thx bro
Keep up the good work ❤️Iove your vids man 💪💪💪
Great man....can you show the details when you put back in...I might have to rebuild mine ,and want to use your videos as guide
ALL moving parts need balancing. Trust me. They show themselves as soon as you put on balancer. NEVER believe "they don't need it". Put them on balancer and see for yourself.
Otherwise byebye to bearings and say hello to housing chrome chatter marks
I wanted a rotor as a desk ornament...then I saw new ones are US$600. On to my next dream. Might be cheaper to buy a neglected RX-7/8 and disassemble the engine myself.
Aren't the rotors paired specifically with each other due to being balanced on the e shaft.. so really all 3 parts should stay together and should never mix and match from other engines unless machined and balanced properly.
Not rx8’s they stopped balancing the rotors there all the same rx8 rotors just have the side cut on opposite sides so it’s a front or rear
He was so fast at the rebuild, i feel deceived, I want to see him take his time next rotar around
From the way you applied sealant at the bottom of the housings I can expact that it will leak some oil...
dang that looked rather easy, its the taking it out and putting it back in that worries me
I maybe getting ready to do this. I'm going to try a starter but mine is not starting
My friend told me about the pricing for apex seals and holy shit he wasnt lying.
Mad lad! Kudos!!
Should've done some porting before you put it back together, that would've been sick 😭. Loving the series though 👍🏾❤
That was a lot of oil...a bit overkilled.
Did you get the exhaust ported? The factory’s eyelid is what kills the apex seal prematurely.
Awesome video man. Do you remember how much it cost to rebuild it?
Can you make a video on everything you need to know about owning one? I would like to get one and am currently saving but since it’s a rotary which I’m not very familiar with idk all the stuff u gotta do to it and how often
Great video!
Thank you
If rotaries weren’t expensive they’d be completely practical to drive.
To be honest they’re pretty cheap in comparison to most sports cars, doing internals on a piston motor even a 4 cylinder is expensive as hell
Crazy ow straight forward rotary engines are compared to piston motors. Barely any measuring to do or timing.
I know! Everything seems to go together so easy. Plus looks like everything is super light so you can move it all around very easily.
Where did u get the new housings? I'm about to have to rebuild my motor and i think i ueeted an apex seal as well 😭😭 I'm very nervous to open it up
Why didn't you get the rotors and shaft balanced?
This is hard to do on a renesis engine. Theres not much to remove on the rotors to correctly balance them so its a gamble. Its also costly($800 just about)
Lovely.I learnt Alot
Glad I recommended this video but I have some questions about the build? How much did it cost for everything, best advice for a beginner building one, is it preferable to build one on a engine stand, could you build mine😂?
Did you use gasket maker for the seals ? Im getting everything together for my 13B rebuild but I'm not sure if I need to get those new gaskets
Thanks for the great video! Question. Where did you order your viton oil pan gasket from? Very hard to find any kind of gasket online and don't want to use sealant.
Hey Japanda. I've been a long time viewer of yours and have a question.
My 2009 GT experienced a major overheating late October and literally "warped" the front iron, according to the Mazda technician who examined it, creating a coolant leak and necessitating a new MSP. If I want to achieve around 400-500 HP down the road from a turbo conversion, is it worth considering using an REW (RX-7) 13b instead due to it's lesser base compression? I also want to install a turboxs catless exhaust (legal here in Michigan) but because the REW has a different exhaust port than the MSP I'm afraid it might become incompatible. To note, I will also be having the new engine streetported. Any advice?
If you see this and reply, big thanks to you. Love your content.
THX for this cool vidéos
Awesome video- isn't there usually another step - like replacing rubber seals or something?
I am rebuilding an RX-8 engine, but my APEX seals are 178 thousandths wide and 78 thousandths thick. All the seals I see on rebuilding RX8 you tube videos the APEX seals are closer to 300 thousandths. My Mazda is a 2007 RX-8. Why would there be a difference in the APEX seals width?
What is that black glue that you put on the seals of the motor?
@Japanda Tuning - Which oil are using to rub everything down with at the start?
What sealant did you use on the sealant channels on the feet of the housings
Built my renesis for turbo it's all complete but for some reason my starter won't start the car it cranks but that's it...ps I can push start it and it starts right up and drives fine any advice would we appreciated thanks..
im having to rebuild mine and its my first rebuild so where did you go for parts? I'm wanting to make sure I'm not having to rebuild it 4 months from now.
What is the blue stuff used on the seals?
Man I want an rx8.. only thing holdin me back is that I can only have one car right now, and the mileage does me no favors there.
Does anybody have a in depth guide or forum to follow along the build?
How much power can a built one make cant find any suggesting over 350-450
Did you replace the oil control rings?