Can't thank you enough for this video, Dave. It is by far the best tutorial on the web on how to replace the alternator on the Passat 1.8t. I recommend it to anyone who has the same work to do. It took me about three hours to fit the new part in. Half an hour of that was spent on fitting the long bottom bolt in again ;-) BTW: I have a 2002 model with manual transmission and the alternator was 90 AMP originally from the manufacturer. I upgraded to a 120 AMP model. As long as the mounts fit and the pulley is the right one there is no problem in changing between alternators. Old one was "Valeo", new one is no from "Bosch". Greets from Germany!
This was the best, clearest explanation I have come across for any of my car repairs. Awesome stuff! Did mine in an hour or so. I did find it easier to use torx socket on the upper and lower bolt.
Your video saved me $404.20 in labor that I would have had to pay. Our mechanic said it was a 3 hour job. It took me 1.5 hrs. The money saved really helped especially this close to Christmas. So the wife is really happy $$$. Thanks for a very detailed video. You made every step clear and understandable. Great Job👍🏻
A word of advice.... always remove the Neg terminal first on a battery because if the wrench grounds out its no big deal and after the Neg terminal is removed it matters not if you ground out the Pos terminal because the circuit is open due to the Neg being removed first... Secondly, no matter what folks, never remove a battery terminal while a vehicle is running .... other than those two recommendations great video! Thanks for sharing.
Thank you very much for this video I've watched it 5 times taking notes and am going to try this repair tomorrow on a 2002 passat I just bought that died on me two days after driving it off the lot. They just put a new battery in to make it through the test drive and claimed everything else was good, really hoping this repair will fix it, thanks!
Thanks for making this vid. Everything I needed to know! Gave me the confidence I needed to tackle this one. Took me an hour. This was my first ever diy alternator replacement.
My extra tips after following your awesome video.. I have a 2005 Passat. My top alternator bolt was a 6 mm. Not 7 like yours. At 3:40 you use a allen wrench as a stopper. I suggest not using anything you don't want bent or broken. I bent up a screwdriver and a bolt that I inserted. Several folks have mentioned that back fan bolt is hard to loosen. I couldn't get it out until I got a good squirt of WD40 right on it- Then it came right loose. I think the manufacturer used some bolt lock stuff that needs to be broken down with WD40. That back fan bolt was an 8mm. I don't think you mentioned that. Probably the hardest part for me was at 4:37. Trying to get that wire connector off without breaking the tiny wire in the cramped area you have to work in. Watch this 9 second clip if you don't know how these clips work. th-cam.com/video/JFr46CSKJCM/w-d-xo.html Finally, my alternator failed because the pulley clutch seized up. If you're like me and didn't know that alternators had clutches, then certainly look it up if your having a hard time diagnosing why your charging system might have problems.
I'm going to add a second THANK YOU comment, 6 months later where I find myself pulling up this video again to replace my replacement alternator. Removal the second time was even smoother. Re-install will be today. Hopefully, the replacement will last more than 6 months. Thanks again for the easy to follow steps!
I don't think I can find a more accurate tutorial than this! I was halfway in demounting the alternator but got stuck on the way. Now I know exactly how to proceed, thank you! My first step is to check the coal, but how do I know it's finished, or if the whole alternator needs to be exchanged?
From what you posted it seems like your asking if you can check whether or not your alternator should be swapped out or repaired? I think a local auto parts store should be able to test your alternator if that's what you're asking.
This was a life saver. Thank you so much! When I got the lower bolt loose and realized I wasn't going to be able to remove it with the fan in the way, I searched for a video before I went any further. This helped put me back on track. Had everything gone perfect, it probably would've been an hour job. It ended up taking much longer because the pinch joint on the new alternator was so tight, lining it up was near impossible. Regardless, this was just what I needed. Thanks!!
For anybody wondering about or having concerns about the amperage of the replacement alternator. The different b5/b6 automatic/manual vehicles that came with the 1.8T engine all have very similar power requirements. Some of the models came OEM with a 90 amp, and some were designed with the 120 amp. It really will not be dangerous for your vehicle if it was OEM 90 amp and you move up to a 120 amp. IF your vehicle was made OEM with the 120 amp, just replace it with the 120. There's no need to downgrade the vehicle. For the OP: Thank you so much for the step-by-step. I was really hoping to avoid pulling the front end and this video did an excellent job showing me that I could. I will write back on this comment with my results.
Changed the Alternator and battery today. I observed that the vehicle in the video had slightly more hand space to work with on the front end than my A4, but I was still able to follow right along. Labor was about 1-1.5 hours. And my upper alternator bolt was a 6mm. Everything is in working order now. Note: While not in the video, I have seen this in some comments and observed it myself during labor. It is possible for some coolant to be in the upper lines when you are doing this work, so have some rags prepared in the event that your coolant hose leaks fluid upon disconnect. Additional note: My belt was 5-rib, and the new 120amp alternator was a 6-rib. If you are in the same situation, it is completely safe to install the 6-rib pulley as long as you properly seat the 5-rib belt. If you are in a situation that you have a 6-rib belt with a 5-rib pulley, DO NOT install the new alternator. Instead, get an alternative part which has a 6-rib pulley, If you definitely know what you are doing, you can replace the 5-rib pulley, with your old 6-rib pulley, after inspecting the old part for damage/defects.
How come NAPA gave me a 70amp I wonder. They had a 120 but that's overkill. Even my buddy at VW parts said it should be 90. I dont see how it could need a 90 anyway. Guess I will find out how the 70 goes in a couple hours after install. Wish me luck lol
Thanks for making this video, I was able to help a friend save big bucks because of it. For me the hardest part was undoing the electrical connector on the back of the alternator. VW electrical connectors suck. Also, one tip for those considering this job, invest seven dollars in a 6mm and 8mm Allen driver which will attach to a 3/8" rachet. In my case, a 9mm was not needed.
Thanks man , I was like wow I have to take all the front off but thanks God I found your video , it save me like 40-60mts , it was so easy after I saw the way you do it !!!
Just would like to add to your video you do not have to drain the coolant. Remove the intake hose to the throttle body and remove the line going to the coolant reservoir. Unbolt the reservoir and move it over. You can pull the alternator out that way without losing coolant. (some may drain out of the top nipple but not a lot
hello from France! i just did everything as instructed on your video (i watched to it at least 5 times), i have managed to replace the original alternator that was nearing death (163000km) for a brand new one from Valeo ( i got for an unbeatable deal) i did it all by myself on my passat 1.6L of 2004. (it is a very rare model engine even in europe) During this alternator replacement process the fan holding bolt gave me some major hassle like no other: it was very difficult to get a hold of the bolt hole from the inner side using the allen key to remove it and as well to put it back on! After some tremendous wrestling i have managed to do it.. and phew! I have connected the wires on the alternator and have tightened the alternator well in place using the original screws; the last and the only thing i could not complete alone is to put back the timing belt. Unlike shown on your video for the 1.8L engine, in my case there was no need to remove the tensioner at all. That tensioner spring is well too strong, i could easily loosen it to remove the belt at the beginning, but i can't loosen it enough to put back the timing belt alone, i will do so with a help from a friend. Anyways, i got a nice deal for a brand new alternator for under $60 and i have saved over all about $500 or more as quoted from a pro garage for a "standard alternator replacement". Cheers! PS: i hate vw and would love to send a bag full of dog feces as a present to all the engineers involved in the concept of this engine. PPS: there is a difference in allen keys from the US and EU, they are different by a number. (ie its a 8 in the EU instead of a 7 in the US as shown at the beginin gof your video ..and so on), this is really weird.
A different engine completely that's why bolt sizes were different and the tensioner didn't need to be removed the European 1.6 is different than the American 1.8t
Thanks a million... or I would say $1000. That’s what it would have cost me at the mechanic ... I followed your instructions and bam!!! I am in the road again. Thanks again for this video
Yeah Matt, I'm a big fan of my Haynes manual but I noticed right off the bat they didn't mention that you need to remove the tension belt or how to do that. I feel sorry for anybody who removed the mounting bolts while the alternator was still under tension.
I've always found it prudent to avoid removing a battery cable from a running engine. Not good for any part of the electrical system. After a lot of research here and online I realized the brush set and voltage regulator unit was as easily replaceable on the Valeo as on the Bosch units that I am familiar with. With 150k miles on the original alternator I decided the VR unit was all I was probably going to need. I removed the intercooler to TB hose, loosened the belt, removed upper and lower bolts, removed the wires in the back, flipped it over so the back was facing up. I then took off the back plastic cover (two 7mm bolts), and the three bolts that retain the brush and voltage regulator assembly (also 7mm head). My slip ring was in great shape (the brushes were basically non-existent) so I just replaced it with a new unit and put it back together. Total cost was USD 47.90 for everything. I made sure the battery was well charged because the square brushes won't make great contact with the round slip ring (true of any new or rebuilt alternator). At any rate, I truly appreciate your video as I was going into this blind with no previous experience on this alternator and chassis. It really helped me do this easily and inexpensively. My car's a money pit, so thanks.
"You don't have to remove the tensioner." It's situational. In my case I couldn't get to the bottom bolt decently with it in. Hand size and or tools handy matters. I at least didn't have to remove the upper radiator hose. This is still a really good general video. Use your thinking brains to deal with your unique problems. Like the Allen sizes being different. In my case it's top 6, bottom 7, fan 8. Glory to the 13mm socket though.
@@chiknarisemcfro855 I know I didn't need to remove the tensioner. I thought I did at the time and a few ppl have commented about that lol. Thanks for watching!
@@DoItWithDave I removed the tensioner. I saw those comments and tried but it had to come out in mine. Thanks for the video. Probably the best one on this subject.
very helpful video thank you,even though my car is a 99 Audi a4 Quattro 1.8l turbo it work for me,pretty much the same procedures, the only thing ls missing in the video are the torque specification, good job 👍
For anyone interested, the torque specs are: 45 Nm (33 ft-lb) for the fan clutch bolt and the bottom bolt holding the alternator. The top bolt is 25Nm (18 ft-lb). For the electrical connections on the back, the large nut is 16 Nm (12 ft-lb) and the small nut is 4 Nm (35 in-lb). This info is from the Bentley Audi A4 Service Manual.
Thank you for the helpful video. Yesterday I replaced my alternator. I ran into the problem that the fan bolt was so tight that it bent the hell out of the allen wrench I stuck through the hole in the fan hub. I ended up using my oil filter wrench (style with the sheet metal band) to lock down the fan hub, was a bit of fumbling around to get it on the fan hub, but it worked just fine. Did not disconnect the coolant hose, instead ended up removing the 3 screws of the coolant reservoir and folded it forward. Just enough room to get the alternator out.
Never take the battery cable off while the engine is running. That was something you could do in in the 50' and early 60's when there were no electronics involved. Use a voltmeter. But nice video on removing and installing the alternator.
@@DoItWithDave hell yah bro. My boy works at VW, had a B5 too. He hasn't done the alternator. So he says TH-cam it. There isn't to many of these cars left around me. So I laughed and said yah right no way. And you popped right up dude. Funny thing. I have a MK7 GTI. Done a ton of work to it. Seen many videos. Yours is top of the line with it. Right on bro
You DON'T have to remove the tensioner or cooling hose! I just did this job and was able to slip and dip the alternator out by simply pushing the hose aside. Great video though, very helpful!
nogunri nogunri so did you just remove the fan clutch assembly then only to get to the bottom bolt? That's it, nothing else whatsoever besides the altenator? Or Did u also have to stick an Allen wrenche through those grooves like he did since you didn't remove the belt tensioner?
joe warren just pull that intake hose, loosen everything up with whatever combination of extensions it takes, and wiggle the alt down, over, around and out. The tensioner is just not in the way.
dave hutchinson You said, "loosen everything up"..what is everything? So your saying I don't need to mess with the tensioner then? So do I still need to stick that Allen wrenches through the hole into the fan to hold it while I undo the nut or bolt(forget which) holding the fan? Or do I not need to do that now that I'm not taking off the tensioner?
dave hutchinson thanks so much. Sorry for all the questions. One last one is do I use the 7mm to slide through to hold the fan or did u use a smaller one?
ok i got the alternator out. had to be creative getting the fan off, also didnt take the tension puller off. alternator came out just fine without taking that off
Just a heads up to some, the top and bottom bolts on my altenator are torx(star) not allen. I'll post sizes when I get them. I have a 99 Passat wagon 1.8. Also the altenator that is in mine is a valeo 90amp. The replacement that I got at an auto recylers had it listed as a 98 but it is the exact same make model and amp that is in mine. O'Riley's said that originally it was a 70amp that was in my year... On a side note none of the chain auto stores mentioned this but the auto recylers did- for the 99 there is an early and late model engine which require different altenators.
I have 2001 Audi A4 B5 and just changed it out with the same alternator. I have the additional plastic wiring harness plug to connect, besides the positive cable with the washer and nut. Did your car not have that connector? I see you did not mention it.
Yes I did have the harness on the VW however the video of me removing it and attaching it wasn't well lit and I did not state to reconnect it. I will add a note on the video for anyone who may be concerned about this. I appreciate you commenting about that. Thank you for watching!
@@diggiejohns the wire terminal clips together. There is a tooth on one side with one of the pull out tabs (locking tab). You should be able to pull the tab out, then press down on the backside of the tooth for it to disengage. Watch out though cause these plastic pieces keep easily break.
@@diggiejohns you may be able to take a small flat head screwdriver and gently pry the connector off the alternator. It's just such a bummer to be do close to getting this done and running into that issue. I'd say just try to be patient and do what is best for the situation.
Hey Dave! Great video! I somehow managed to mess up the clip that you remove or lift up on at 2:34 in the video.on the "tube". I lost the first one, and called vw and received a replacement.. but now I still can't figure out how to attach the tube so it doesn't blow off! Can you help? video? Thanks in advance for any help
You might try a 3 inch hose clamp. Remember if you do use a hose clamp on that side I think it's connecting to plastic so don't over tighten or else you may crack the plastic. If it's only temporary you should be able to get away with it until the replacement fitting comes in. I hope this helps.
Hey Dave I have one more question for you. I've only been able to track down torx sockets(I have torx not allen) not torx wrenches. I'm curious if I'll have enough room to take the bottom bolt out with a ratchet and torx socket, did u try an Allen socket and wratchet and if so was there room?
C Ros to be honest I really don't know. I do know people have published various posts on that and it seems like it should be. I just purchased a new one cause I didn't think to try a rebuild. Plus I got one for $100 US. Thank you for watching! And I'm glad you found this video helpful.
Dave. After looking what brushes and new bearing would cost to refurbish my 20 years old Audi A6 alternator. The differences in prices are minor. I bought a new alternator at ebay.de, about $ 200. The alternator I bought is a stronger type 120 A. Probably I need this alternator as winter in Sweden can be rather cold and need a lot of lights on dark evenings and nights. Thanks for your feedback and your video. Have a great summer, Dave.
Ok got my Alternator out..no issues very easy to do in fact. But when looking at my old alternator it’s a 90amp vs a 120amp( I have a manual transmission) How is this possible?
I'm not sure. Everything I've read states that a manual needs a 120amp alternator to run properly. It may have been a replacement and worked even though its a 90amp. Again I'm just going off what I've read and not experience but it's possible that the 90amp could provide enough power and just have a shorter life span for a manual? I just found this if you want some additional input. forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=199341 I hope this helps.
Do It With Dave The car has been in the family since new 2003, dealer serviced for everything. I have all the records since day one and not one mention of an alternator being replaced/issues. So the one I took out is the original. Mileage on the car is 152,313. Based on your video I when ahead and had ordered the 120amp alternator before removing mine and was surprised to see 90amp. Maybe that is why on some websites it stated “does not fit this vehicle” for the 120amp alternator though I was rarely given the option to select the transmission type when checking fitment. No biggie just made it a bit confusing when ordering. OK now I see the TDI .. maybe not for gas engines..lol.
I thought that 90 amp is for petrol engines, and 120 amp is for diesel. Also, you do not want to remove battery terminals when the engine is running, because the voltage could spike and fry your ECU. You want them to be clean and tight, as all electrical connections.
lining up that bottom bolt was a pain, i had to stick a wire to feel around for the hole . my alternator was a tight fit on that bracket so it was hard to move.
hi, I also changed the alternator and my steering wheel vibrates when I start it, it feels when I put my hand on the steering wheel, I have the same car as in your videos
I did this job yesterday. There is no need to remove the tenioning pulley / roller. It does not get in the way at all. Also, not removing the coolant tube / line is a good idea, not worth the mess of having to deal with draining the coolant ( partly). I do not think that removing the battery cable from the terminal while the car is running is a good idea.
How do you know it is the alternator going bad? My alternator malfunction light just came on when I put car in park & turned off. Restarted car & no warning light. Could this be a battery problem?
I must have like 60 various inherited Allen wrenches. None of them metric. It was tough to find a set with 9mm. www.amazon.com/Bondhus-12195-L-wrenches-Length-1-27-10mm/dp/B000E7XJGG/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=metric+allen+wrench+9mm&qid=1601410240&s=hi&sr=1-5
Could spray some type of wd-40 where the fan wheel mounts. May need to give it a light tap from the back side or very lightly on the wheel closest to the fan and a wiggle.
What year is this? I have a 99 Passat wagon 1.8t...How do u get the altenator out without removing the whole front end? Some ther videos from this body style/engine era 98-05 I believe, show having to remove the front end, also I called a couple shops and when they looked it up I got quoted like $500 in labor because they said they had to remove the front end to get to the lower bolt. There's also a couple video that shows them getting to the bolt easy as you do. I'm wondering if there's any slight difference in any of the 98-05 years, do you know?
joe warren the car in this video is a 2003. To the best of my knowledge the 2000-2005 have this same set up in the engine bay. I made this video because I was unable to find one that showed a quick way to replace the alternator.
Do It With Dave Do It With Dave it is 98-05 like I thought, I was pretty sure about that so I double checked. Another comment on here said he didn't remove any hoses or the tensioner, do you know if since a person doesn't remove the tensioner would they still have to slide the Allen wrenches through that hole to hold the fan in place from turning while you turn the fan bolt, or would it still true if the tensioner was on there?
The tensioner is separate from the clutch assembly. The person that posted that more that likely has some experience as a mechanic and was able to do this job without removing the tensioner and hose. I removed them just to have a easier access to the alternator.
Why not put the bottom bolt from the opposite side so the nut is on the front and the Allen boot can be taken out from the back where there is room. I'm going to try this when I put it back together for S&G
Hey there I apologize for the delay. I looked online for a clip to purchase but didn't find any thing for you. You could try to get a strong piece of wire and bend it to fit like the original clip. Or if you want to rig it Gorilla tape? Otherwise you may be able to pull one from a junkyard. I hope this helps.
@@DoItWithDave Did exactly as video showed. Fluid would not stop coming out. Anyone reading, be prepared for LOTS of coolant to come flowing out of top hose, from the hose itself and primarily from the nozzle attached to block. Also, I never had use for a number 7 Allen wrench, instead used a 6 where a 7 was used in this vid. Make sure you pay close attention to exactly how the belt was originally positioned and wrapped. I had to disassemble everything because I had not thought out properly how the belt was supposed to be wrapped. Prepare for bolts to be incredibly locked up and for things not to go even 1% as smoothly as this video went. I can not comprehend how OP just tucked an Allen wrench in there a few times and loosened everything up no biggie. I was sure I was going to have to use an impact drill at one point, but through a lot of torque, squatting on top of engine, and sampling several different tool configurations, I managed to break loose those hidden pins behind the fan. I have only changed an air filter and a fuel filter in the past, so yes, this was my very first real repair. You can take that information against this when considering doing this swap, but let it be known: this took me [[[10 HOURS !&@)@]]] straight no breaks. Autozone pretty much gave me an ovation. They were sure this hippie was going to surrender, but the Holy Spirit was with me today. Thanks for the video, it was a big help, but for some reason I’m mad at you anyways. My body must be looking for someone to blame. Ow my body.
Thank you for commenting in detail, it definitely helps ppl trying to do this repair. As for the coolant my guess would be that gravity helped literally suck the fluid out. Its a good idea for ppl to keep what you commented here in mind. Maybe they can raise the coolant hose higher than the radiator and remove the cap to break any vacuum that may lead to the coolant issue. And if you're mad at me than be mad at me. We all should be able to feel our emotions and own that $+!t. Thank you for watching.
Hey by any chance you have a email you can share so I can send you pictures of my engine, I have a 04 VW Passat 1.8t and I’m having trouble identifying a certain part of my intake manifold
Thank you, very good video, the only thing I would add is at the end of the job when it is time to put belt back on, tensioner need to be pushed to the right(just in case someone, like me missed it in the video). Link to my video How I fixed my car for $5 instead of $250. Engine misfire? is here: th-cam.com/video/6emUiUpnb8Y/w-d-xo.html I hope it would help someone as well. Read the description for error codes, part numbers...
Ok, at first I was all wtf VW why would you put an allen bolt right there where you can't see it. But I managed to break it loose and was immediately, yeah this is gonna be way too long. ffkkkk, what do they expect me to take whole radiator out to change a fkn alternator? And then I was like OH yeah! Internet! So anyway, how much I owe ya?
hello sir im having the same problems can you tell me your encounter cause i went and bought a new battery i prolly didnt need for thr car to crank right up. then i went to the store and it continued to not crank
Can't thank you enough for this video, Dave. It is by far the best tutorial on the web on how to replace the alternator on the Passat 1.8t. I recommend it to anyone who has the same work to do.
It took me about three hours to fit the new part in. Half an hour of that was spent on fitting the long bottom bolt in again ;-)
BTW: I have a 2002 model with manual transmission and the alternator was 90 AMP originally from the manufacturer. I upgraded to a 120 AMP model. As long as the mounts fit and the pulley is the right one there is no problem in changing between alternators. Old one was "Valeo", new one is no from "Bosch".
Greets from Germany!
This was the best, clearest explanation I have come across for any of my car repairs. Awesome stuff! Did mine in an hour or so. I did find it easier to use torx socket on the upper and lower bolt.
Your video saved me $404.20 in labor that I would have had to pay. Our mechanic said it was a 3 hour job. It took me 1.5 hrs. The money saved really helped especially this close to Christmas. So the wife is really happy $$$. Thanks for a very detailed video.
You made every step clear and understandable. Great Job👍🏻
Thank you so much. I'm glad you found this video helpful. Thank you for watching!
A word of advice.... always remove the Neg terminal first on a battery because if the wrench grounds out its no big deal and after the Neg terminal is removed it matters not if you ground out the Pos terminal because the circuit is open due to the Neg being removed first... Secondly, no matter what folks, never remove a battery terminal while a vehicle is running .... other than those two recommendations great video! Thanks for sharing.
And when putting back the battery, always mount first the + terminal!
I did it today, for VW passat B3, benzin fuel 2000cmc. I followed what I saw on this video and I succeed. Thank you, god bless you!
Thank you very much for this video I've watched it 5 times taking notes and am going to try this repair tomorrow on a 2002 passat I just bought that died on me two days after driving it off the lot. They just put a new battery in to make it through the test drive and claimed everything else was good, really hoping this repair will fix it, thanks!
Just swapped the alternator in the lot at work. Your video saved me a lot of time. Thanks man!
Thanks for making this vid. Everything I needed to know! Gave me the confidence I needed to tackle this one. Took me an hour. This was my first ever diy alternator replacement.
@@48Goat Nice work! I'm glad you found this video help, thanks for watching!
Straight up the best video out there for alternator removal. Works on an Audi A6 2001 as well. Thanks a lot
My extra tips after following your awesome video..
I have a 2005 Passat. My top alternator bolt was a 6 mm. Not 7 like yours. At 3:40 you use a allen wrench as a stopper. I suggest not using anything you don't want bent or broken. I bent up a screwdriver and a bolt that I inserted. Several folks have mentioned that back fan bolt is hard to loosen. I couldn't get it out until I got a good squirt of WD40 right on it- Then it came right loose. I think the manufacturer used some bolt lock stuff that needs to be broken down with WD40. That back fan bolt was an 8mm. I don't think you mentioned that.
Probably the hardest part for me was at 4:37. Trying to get that wire connector off without breaking the tiny wire in the cramped area you have to work in. Watch this 9 second clip if you don't know how these clips work. th-cam.com/video/JFr46CSKJCM/w-d-xo.html
Finally, my alternator failed because the pulley clutch seized up. If you're like me and didn't know that alternators had clutches, then certainly look it up if your having a hard time diagnosing why your charging system might have problems.
Thank you for explaining your process. This really helps ppl who might hit a wall.
I'm going to add a second THANK YOU comment, 6 months later where I find myself pulling up this video again to replace my replacement alternator. Removal the second time was even smoother.
Re-install will be today. Hopefully, the replacement will last more than 6 months. Thanks again for the easy to follow steps!
jbserra I'm glad you found this video helpful and thank you for commenting. I really do hope that the next one will last for the life of the car.
I don't think I can find a more accurate tutorial than this! I was halfway in demounting the alternator but got stuck on the way. Now I know exactly how to proceed, thank you!
My first step is to check the coal, but how do I know it's finished, or if the whole alternator needs to be exchanged?
From what you posted it seems like your asking if you can check whether or not your alternator should be swapped out or repaired? I think a local auto parts store should be able to test your alternator if that's what you're asking.
Thank you! You just saved me and my family a lot of money. Much appreciated.
Thank you!
This was a life saver. Thank you so much! When I got the lower bolt loose and realized I wasn't going to be able to remove it with the fan in the way, I searched for a video before I went any further. This helped put me back on track. Had everything gone perfect, it probably would've been an hour job. It ended up taking much longer because the pinch joint on the new alternator was so tight, lining it up was near impossible. Regardless, this was just what I needed. Thanks!!
jbserra I'm so glad you found this video helpful. Thank you for your comment and thank you for watching!
This saved me 3 days worth of work thank you so much
For anybody wondering about or having concerns about the amperage of the replacement alternator. The different b5/b6 automatic/manual vehicles that came with the 1.8T engine all have very similar power requirements. Some of the models came OEM with a 90 amp, and some were designed with the 120 amp. It really will not be dangerous for your vehicle if it was OEM 90 amp and you move up to a 120 amp. IF your vehicle was made OEM with the 120 amp, just replace it with the 120. There's no need to downgrade the vehicle.
For the OP: Thank you so much for the step-by-step. I was really hoping to avoid pulling the front end and this video did an excellent job showing me that I could. I will write back on this comment with my results.
Changed the Alternator and battery today. I observed that the vehicle in the video had slightly more hand space to work with on the front end than my A4, but I was still able to follow right along. Labor was about 1-1.5 hours. And my upper alternator bolt was a 6mm. Everything is in working order now.
Note: While not in the video, I have seen this in some comments and observed it myself during labor. It is possible for some coolant to be in the upper lines when you are doing this work, so have some rags prepared in the event that your coolant hose leaks fluid upon disconnect.
Additional note: My belt was 5-rib, and the new 120amp alternator was a 6-rib. If you are in the same situation, it is completely safe to install the 6-rib pulley as long as you properly seat the 5-rib belt. If you are in a situation that you have a 6-rib belt with a 5-rib pulley, DO NOT install the new alternator. Instead, get an alternative part which has a 6-rib pulley, If you definitely know what you are doing, you can replace the 5-rib pulley, with your old 6-rib pulley, after inspecting the old part for damage/defects.
Thank you for the very informative info. It really does help ppl to understand, anticipate and correctly do this swap out. Thanks for watching!
@@DoItWithDave Thank you for making the video!
How come NAPA gave me a 70amp I wonder. They had a 120 but that's overkill. Even my buddy at VW parts said it should be 90. I dont see how it could need a 90 anyway. Guess I will find out how the 70 goes in a couple hours after install. Wish me luck lol
@@TruEGTI Best of luck! Hopefully there aren't any power issues after replacement.
Thanks for making this video, I was able to help a friend save big bucks because of it. For me the hardest part was undoing the electrical connector on the back of the alternator. VW electrical connectors suck.
Also, one tip for those considering this job, invest seven dollars in a 6mm and 8mm Allen driver which will attach to a 3/8" rachet. In my case, a 9mm was not needed.
Tony Zee thank you for commenting, it really helps others when working on this.
Just what I was looking for! Thanks for a sensible and clear production!
Thanks man , I was like wow I have to take all the front off but thanks God I found your video , it save me like 40-60mts , it was so easy after I saw the way you do it !!!
Thanks so much! One of the best step-by-step videos ever.
Just would like to add to your video you do not have to drain the coolant. Remove the intake hose to the throttle body and remove the line going to the coolant reservoir. Unbolt the reservoir and move it over. You can pull the alternator out that way without losing coolant. (some may drain out of the top nipple but not a lot
hello from France! i just did everything as instructed on your video (i watched to it at least 5 times), i have managed to replace the original alternator that was nearing death (163000km) for a brand new one from Valeo ( i got for an unbeatable deal) i did it all by myself on my passat 1.6L of 2004. (it is a very rare model engine even in europe) During this alternator replacement process the fan holding bolt gave me some major hassle like no other: it was very difficult to get a hold of the bolt hole from the inner side using the allen key to remove it and as well to put it back on! After some tremendous wrestling i have managed to do it.. and phew! I have connected the wires on the alternator and have tightened the alternator well in place using the original screws; the last and the only thing i could not complete alone is to put back the timing belt. Unlike shown on your video for the 1.8L engine, in my case there was no need to remove the tensioner at all. That tensioner spring is well too strong, i could easily loosen it to remove the belt at the beginning, but i can't loosen it enough to put back the timing belt alone, i will do so with a help from a friend. Anyways, i got a nice deal for a brand new alternator for under $60 and i have saved over all about $500 or more as quoted from a pro garage for a "standard alternator replacement". Cheers! PS: i hate vw and would love to send a bag full of dog feces as a present to all the engineers involved in the concept of this engine. PPS: there is a difference in allen keys from the US and EU, they are different by a number. (ie its a 8 in the EU instead of a 7 in the US as shown at the beginin gof your video ..and so on), this is really weird.
A different engine completely that's why bolt sizes were different and the tensioner didn't need to be removed the European 1.6 is different than the American 1.8t
One of the best videos of this type I've seen
Thanks. replaced mine in about 2 hrs. start to finish using this video as reference.
Thanks a million... or I would say $1000. That’s what it would have cost me at the mechanic ... I followed your instructions and bam!!! I am in the road again. Thanks again for this video
Thanks man. Looked for so long for a video showing the viscous fan coupling removal properly. The Haynes manual was far too vague about the process.
Yeah Matt, I'm a big fan of my Haynes manual but I noticed right off the bat they didn't mention that you need to remove the tension belt or how to do that. I feel sorry for anybody who removed the mounting bolts while the alternator was still under tension.
Nicely done step by step video. Learned some key steps. Very helpful Thanks
I've always found it prudent to avoid removing a battery cable from a running engine. Not good for any part of the electrical system. After a lot of research here and online I realized the brush set and voltage regulator unit was as easily replaceable on the Valeo as on the Bosch units that I am familiar with. With 150k miles on the original alternator I decided the VR unit was all I was probably going to need. I removed the intercooler to TB hose, loosened the belt, removed upper and lower bolts, removed the wires in the back, flipped it over so the back was facing up. I then took off the back plastic cover (two 7mm bolts), and the three bolts that retain the brush and voltage regulator assembly (also 7mm head). My slip ring was in great shape (the brushes were basically non-existent) so I just replaced it with a new unit and put it back together. Total cost was USD 47.90 for everything. I made sure the battery was well charged because the square brushes won't make great contact with the round slip ring (true of any new or rebuilt alternator). At any rate, I truly appreciate your video as I was going into this blind with no previous experience on this alternator and chassis. It really helped me do this easily and inexpensively. My car's a money pit, so thanks.
Van Baldwin wow thanks for the feedback Im glad you found this video.
Thank you for all the details. You made it look easy. I’ll give it a try.
"You don't have to remove the tensioner." It's situational. In my case I couldn't get to the bottom bolt decently with it in. Hand size and or tools handy matters. I at least didn't have to remove the upper radiator hose. This is still a really good general video. Use your thinking brains to deal with your unique problems. Like the Allen sizes being different. In my case it's top 6, bottom 7, fan 8. Glory to the 13mm socket though.
@@chiknarisemcfro855 I know I didn't need to remove the tensioner. I thought I did at the time and a few ppl have commented about that lol. Thanks for watching!
@@DoItWithDave I removed the tensioner. I saw those comments and tried but it had to come out in mine. Thanks for the video. Probably the best one on this subject.
very helpful video thank you,even though my car is a 99 Audi a4 Quattro 1.8l turbo it work for me,pretty much the same procedures, the only thing ls missing in the video are the torque specification, good job 👍
For anyone interested, the torque specs are: 45 Nm (33 ft-lb) for the fan clutch bolt and the bottom bolt holding the alternator. The top bolt is 25Nm (18 ft-lb). For the electrical connections on the back, the large nut is 16 Nm (12 ft-lb) and the small nut is 4 Nm (35 in-lb). This info is from the Bentley Audi A4 Service Manual.
Great refresher for replacing my alternator!
Gret job. You earned yourself a subscriber.
Thank you for the helpful video. Yesterday I replaced my alternator. I ran into the problem that the fan bolt was so tight that it bent the hell out of the allen wrench I stuck through the hole in the fan hub. I ended up using my oil filter wrench (style with the sheet metal band) to lock down the fan hub, was a bit of fumbling around to get it on the fan hub, but it worked just fine. Did not disconnect the coolant hose, instead ended up removing the 3 screws of the coolant reservoir and folded it forward. Just enough room to get the alternator out.
they had cost you about couple of bucks 😂👌
Never take the battery cable off while the engine is running. That was something you could do in in the 50' and early 60's when there were no electronics involved. Use a voltmeter. But nice video on removing and installing the alternator.
Thanks for the great video dude. I'm sitting here thinking I gotta put the damn thing in service mode until I came across you.
I'm glad you found this video helpful. Thank you for watching!
@@DoItWithDave hell yah bro. My boy works at VW, had a B5 too. He hasn't done the alternator. So he says TH-cam it. There isn't to many of these cars left around me. So I laughed and said yah right no way. And you popped right up dude. Funny thing. I have a MK7 GTI. Done a ton of work to it. Seen many videos. Yours is top of the line with it. Right on bro
you make it look so easy. bout to try it, hope it is as easy as it looks.
You DON'T have to remove the tensioner or cooling hose! I just did this job and was able to slip and dip the alternator out by simply pushing the hose aside. Great video though, very helpful!
nogunri nogunri so did you just remove the fan clutch assembly then only to get to the bottom bolt? That's it, nothing else whatsoever besides the altenator? Or Did u also have to stick an Allen wrenche through those grooves like he did since you didn't remove the belt tensioner?
joe warren just pull that intake hose, loosen everything up with whatever combination of extensions it takes, and wiggle the alt down, over, around and out. The tensioner is just not in the way.
dave hutchinson You said, "loosen everything up"..what is everything? So your saying I don't need to mess with the tensioner then? So do I still need to stick that Allen wrenches through the hole into the fan to hold it while I undo the nut or bolt(forget which) holding the fan? Or do I not need to do that now that I'm not taking off the tensioner?
joe warren yes on the alan wrench, no on the tensioner.
dave hutchinson thanks so much. Sorry for all the questions. One last one is do I use the 7mm to slide through to hold the fan or did u use a smaller one?
Great job and you didn't miss a step. Big Help 4 sure..
ok i got the alternator out. had to be creative getting the fan off, also didnt take the tension puller off. alternator came out just fine without taking that off
Technical there is no need to remove the tensioner, you are correct.
Just a heads up to some, the top and bottom bolts on my altenator are torx(star) not allen. I'll post sizes when I get them. I have a 99 Passat wagon 1.8. Also the altenator that is in mine is a valeo 90amp. The replacement that I got at an auto recylers had it listed as a 98 but it is the exact same make model and amp that is in mine. O'Riley's said that originally it was a 70amp that was in my year... On a side note none of the chain auto stores mentioned this but the auto recylers did- for the 99 there is an early and late model engine which require different altenators.
Thanks a lot for this video. Made my day.
Sall, I also changed the new alternator and there is a hissing sound, I want to mention that I also put the new belt on
thank you bro sure helped me out of a jam✌much appreciated
I have 2001 Audi A4 B5 and just changed it out with the same alternator. I have the additional plastic wiring harness plug to connect, besides the positive cable with the washer and nut. Did your car not have that connector? I see you did not mention it.
Yes I did have the harness on the VW however the video of me removing it and attaching it wasn't well lit and I did not state to reconnect it. I will add a note on the video for anyone who may be concerned about this. I appreciate you commenting about that. Thank you for watching!
@@DoItWithDave it's the one part i can't get off
@@diggiejohns the wire terminal clips together. There is a tooth on one side with one of the pull out tabs (locking tab). You should be able to pull the tab out, then press down on the backside of the tooth for it to disengage. Watch out though cause these plastic pieces keep easily break.
@@DoItWithDave thanks. i'm afraid i'll break it
@@diggiejohns you may be able to take a small flat head screwdriver and gently pry the connector off the alternator. It's just such a bummer to be do close to getting this done and running into that issue. I'd say just try to be patient and do what is best for the situation.
Hey Dave! Great video! I somehow managed to mess up the clip that you remove or lift up on at 2:34 in the video.on the "tube". I lost the first one, and called vw and received a replacement.. but now I still can't figure out how to attach the tube so it doesn't blow off! Can you help? video?
Thanks in advance for any help
You might try a 3 inch hose clamp. Remember if you do use a hose clamp on that side I think it's connecting to plastic so don't over tighten or else you may crack the plastic. If it's only temporary you should be able to get away with it until the replacement fitting comes in. I hope this helps.
Great video..Question? When removing the fan screw.. Do u go up or down? I broke two alley keys trying to break loose the fan screw
I pushed it down. Righty tighty lefty loosy.
@@DoItWithDave Thank u much
Hey Dave I have one more question for you. I've only been able to track down torx sockets(I have torx not allen) not torx wrenches. I'm curious if I'll have enough room to take the bottom bolt out with a ratchet and torx socket, did u try an Allen socket and wratchet and if so was there room?
Very helpful thanks a bunch for making a video
Thanks for sharing this content, very informative. Would it not be cheaper to replace the brushes and use the old alternator again?
C Ros to be honest I really don't know. I do know people have published various posts on that and it seems like it should be. I just purchased a new one cause I didn't think to try a rebuild. Plus I got one for $100 US. Thank you for watching! And I'm glad you found this video helpful.
Dave. After looking what brushes and new bearing would cost to refurbish my 20 years old Audi A6 alternator. The differences in prices are minor. I bought a new alternator at ebay.de, about $ 200. The alternator I bought is a stronger type 120 A. Probably I need this alternator as winter in Sweden can be rather cold and need a lot of lights on dark evenings and nights. Thanks for your feedback and your video. Have a great summer, Dave.
C Ros thank you so much! And good thinking on the 120 amp.
Ok got my Alternator out..no issues very easy to do in fact. But when looking at my old alternator it’s a 90amp vs a 120amp( I have a manual transmission) How is this possible?
I'm not sure. Everything I've read states that a manual needs a 120amp alternator to run properly. It may have been a replacement and worked even though its a 90amp. Again I'm just going off what I've read and not experience but it's possible that the 90amp could provide enough power and just have a shorter life span for a manual? I just found this if you want some additional input.
forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=199341
I hope this helps.
Do It With Dave The car has been in the family since new 2003, dealer serviced for everything. I have all the records since day one and not one mention of an alternator being replaced/issues. So the one I took out is the original. Mileage on the car is 152,313. Based on your video I when ahead and had ordered the 120amp alternator before removing mine and was surprised to see 90amp. Maybe that is why on some websites it stated “does not fit this vehicle” for the 120amp alternator though I was rarely given the option to select the transmission type when checking fitment. No biggie just made it a bit confusing when ordering. OK now I see the TDI .. maybe not for gas engines..lol.
I have a B5.5 passat 1.8t 5-speed manual and my original alternator is 90 Amp. I also called the dealer to confirm and they said 90 Amp for my VIN.
I thought that 90 amp is for petrol engines, and 120 amp is for diesel.
Also, you do not want to remove battery terminals when the engine is running, because the voltage could spike and fry your ECU. You want them to be clean and tight, as all electrical connections.
That you for making it. It has help me alot.
What size Allen did I slide through the groove to hold the fan from turning. You said u use a 7,8,9 and a small one
joe warren I don't recall, just picked the largest size that would fit through the holes on the fan clutch.
lining up that bottom bolt was a pain, i had to stick a wire to feel around for the hole . my alternator was a tight fit on that bracket so it was hard to move.
Thanks helped me a lot i saved some money from watching this
Awesome! 8m glad you found this video helpful. Thanks for watching!
my friend. you frie generator when lifting plus when engine running.. just use voltagemeter
Mine is still working fine and obviously his is too.
You can leave the tensioner on…
To loosen the fan bolt is it up or down?
KING ceasar97 loosen will be down. Rightly tightly lefty loosey. It's an awkward position.
Do It With Dave thx
@@Obeygods.92 remove the coolant resovoir if you've got big hands
hi, I also changed the alternator and my steering wheel vibrates when I start it, it feels when I put my hand on the steering wheel, I have the same car as in your videos
@@ciprianionutapetroaie7314 if the car is always vibrating especially while stopped you may want to check the motor mounts. I hope this helps.
@DoItWithDave I changed olredy mount transmission and engine
I did this job yesterday. There is no need to remove the tenioning pulley / roller. It does not get in the way at all. Also, not removing the coolant tube / line is a good idea, not worth the mess
of having to deal with draining the coolant ( partly). I do not think that removing the battery cable from the terminal while the car is running is a good idea.
Well done man where r u located ??
How do you know it is the alternator going bad? My alternator malfunction light just came on when I put car in park & turned off. Restarted car & no warning light. Could this be a battery problem?
Where did you buy your Allen wrench set? I'm having a tough time finding a long arm set with 7mm, 8mm, 9mm in one set.
At Home Depot, they were on sale for $10
@@DoItWithDave I appreciate it! I just got my set from Home Depot too. Husky brand if anyone else is looking.
I must have like 60 various inherited Allen wrenches. None of them metric. It was tough to find a set with 9mm.
www.amazon.com/Bondhus-12195-L-wrenches-Length-1-27-10mm/dp/B000E7XJGG/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=metric+allen+wrench+9mm&qid=1601410240&s=hi&sr=1-5
Thanks. I feel like know it's not a 1000$ job. Very useful
So I’m having trouble get the actual fan clutch off I have the bolt removed but it won’t come off any tricks?
Could spray some type of wd-40 where the fan wheel mounts. May need to give it a light tap from the back side or very lightly on the wheel closest to the fan and a wiggle.
What year is this? I have a 99 Passat wagon 1.8t...How do u get the altenator out without removing the whole front end? Some ther videos from this body style/engine era 98-05 I believe, show having to remove the front end, also I called a couple shops and when they looked it up I got quoted like $500 in labor because they said they had to remove the front end to get to the lower bolt. There's also a couple video that shows them getting to the bolt easy as you do. I'm wondering if there's any slight difference in any of the 98-05 years, do you know?
joe warren the car in this video is a 2003. To the best of my knowledge the 2000-2005 have this same set up in the engine bay. I made this video because I was unable to find one that showed a quick way to replace the alternator.
Do It With Dave Do It With Dave it is 98-05 like I thought, I was pretty sure about that so I double checked. Another comment on here said he didn't remove any hoses or the tensioner, do you know if since a person doesn't remove the tensioner would they still have to slide the Allen wrenches through that hole to hold the fan in place from turning while you turn the fan bolt, or would it still true if the tensioner was on there?
The tensioner is separate from the clutch assembly. The person that posted that more that likely has some experience as a mechanic and was able to do this job without removing the tensioner and hose. I removed them just to have a easier access to the alternator.
Why not put the bottom bolt from the opposite side so the nut is on the front and the Allen boot can be taken out from the back where there is room. I'm going to try this when I put it back together for S&G
The "nut" is actually threads in the back of the alternator's bracket.
Great video! Thanks
Where do I get a new clip for the cold air intake?
Hey there I apologize for the delay. I looked online for a clip to purchase but didn't find any thing for you. You could try to get a strong piece of wire and bend it to fit like the original clip. Or if you want to rig it Gorilla tape? Otherwise you may be able to pull one from a junkyard. I hope this helps.
This was extremely helpful thank you!!
So every bit of coolant came leaking out for an hour when I removed that hose. Every last drop.
Did it not for you??
Removing just the top side of the coolant hose was okay while I replaced the alternator.
@@DoItWithDave
Did exactly as video showed. Fluid would not stop coming out. Anyone reading, be prepared for LOTS of coolant to come flowing out of top hose, from the hose itself and primarily from the nozzle attached to block. Also, I never had use for a number 7 Allen wrench, instead used a 6 where a 7 was used in this vid. Make sure you pay close attention to exactly how the belt was originally positioned and wrapped. I had to disassemble everything because I had not thought out properly how the belt was supposed to be wrapped. Prepare for bolts to be incredibly locked up and for things not to go even 1% as smoothly as this video went. I can not comprehend how OP just tucked an Allen wrench in there a few times and loosened everything up no biggie. I was sure I was going to have to use an impact drill at one point, but through a lot of torque, squatting on top of engine, and sampling several different tool configurations, I managed to break loose those hidden pins behind the fan.
I have only changed an air filter and a fuel filter in the past, so yes, this was my very first real repair. You can take that information against this when considering doing this swap, but let it be known: this took me [[[10 HOURS !&@)@]]] straight no breaks.
Autozone pretty much gave me an ovation. They were sure this hippie was going to surrender, but the Holy Spirit was with me today.
Thanks for the video, it was a big help, but for some reason I’m mad at you anyways. My body must be looking for someone to blame.
Ow my body.
Thank you for commenting in detail, it definitely helps ppl trying to do this repair. As for the coolant my guess would be that gravity helped literally suck the fluid out. Its a good idea for ppl to keep what you commented here in mind. Maybe they can raise the coolant hose higher than the radiator and remove the cap to break any vacuum that may lead to the coolant issue. And if you're mad at me than be mad at me. We all should be able to feel our emotions and own that $+!t. Thank you for watching.
@@DoItWithDave
God bless, thanks again!
This was like asmr ,,cool thanks
Hey by any chance you have a email you can share so I can send you pictures of my engine, I have a 04 VW Passat 1.8t and I’m having trouble identifying a certain part of my intake manifold
Thank you, very good video, the only thing I would add is at the end of the job when it is time to put belt back on, tensioner need to be pushed to the right(just in case someone, like me missed it in the video).
Link to my video How I fixed my car for $5 instead of $250. Engine misfire? is here:
th-cam.com/video/6emUiUpnb8Y/w-d-xo.html
I hope it would help someone as well. Read the description for error codes, part numbers...
Thank you so much 👍
Thanks a lot
Perfect thanks a lot of
Vrlo poucan prikaz.
I have to do this tomorrow..on my Passat..ug ..
good job, but still, you could save it about 300 bucks just by changing alternator brushes and rings
Ok, at first I was all wtf VW why would you put an allen bolt right there where you can't see it. But I managed to break it loose and was immediately, yeah this is gonna be way too long. ffkkkk, what do they expect me to take whole radiator out to change a fkn alternator? And then I was like OH yeah! Internet! So anyway, how much I owe ya?
I'm glad you found this video helpful. Thanks for watching!
Thank you
Ohh do you have coolant in your cars OMG. this one seams NOT need to be refilled and bleaded eater :D
Hands down the worst design alternator I have ever seen on any vehicle
It’s a quality piece of hardware though. Get it refurbished and leave it for another 20 years 😂
Thank you
hello sir im having the same problems can you tell me your encounter cause i went and bought a new battery i prolly didnt need for thr car to crank right up. then i went to the store and it continued to not crank