In this video I repair the wiring on the stator, turn and undercut the armature, clean the shift shaft, and repair the kick starter shaft. There is machine work using the Jet lathe.
I never would have thought to make that wire connector like you did. Probably would have just soldered a commercially bought eyelet connector on the old wire. Great Job!!!
Thanks Dale. Beautiful work as always. I think you did well to redo that stator wire link repair. Much better with the additional insulation. Cheers, Peter.
Hopefully you might be able to find suitable substitutes if you can't find original parts. I have all the confidence that you will find a solution soon! Keep up the great work!
Some good fixes there Dale! I have one something similar on the input and output shafts on my old MT50 sports moped, I've basically reduce the end float down which improves the dog engagement of the gears. The one 'grey area' is accounting for how must the gasket will compress when the case screws are fully tightened up.
Hi Dale, been around electronics and vibration for a very long time, in my opinion fine stranded wire and soldered ends are paramount (primary wire) or something like that. if you decide to use the solid wire, make sure to anneal the copper. Rich
Thanks Rich, no doubt you are right. Just trying to use original type repairs if possible. Although I did move the wire to a safer location. The solid wire on there made it 50+ years, but yes, I know you have the better solution here. Thank you very much brother.
Dale another fine video just a comment re. the undercutting of the commutator if the brushes are copper leave it un cut ( copper brushes will roll over the segments if they are cut) if the bushes are carbon then by all means under cut the mica , but in dirty conditions we always back filled the slots with white plaster ( thick you use it to fill wall boards ) that will stop the slots filling with carbon deposits . I was during my apprenticeship I spent a year in the armature and stator winding dept ( but that was 60 years ago now 77 ) we used the plaster on the 75hp DC motors on the cast iron ( ductile) pipe spinning machines to keep out the dirt , I have wound DC armature up to 200 hp and AC stators to 1000hp, but worked on AC fan motors up to 1.5 mega watt
Thanks Stuart, I'm sure you are right, I am going by the factory Yamaha service manual, that states to turn the armature no more than 2mm under the standard of 40mm diameter and then undercut the mica no more than .5 to .8mm, then sand to remove burrs. I have seen both copper and carbon brushes on these machines, the new ones I have on hand are carbon. These do get a lot of dust in them over time, but I normally just blow it off when I remove the cover. They are really pretty durable and don't normally require much maintenance. This is by far the worst I have seen in quite some time.
@@montana2strokeracer it’s a real gem. Looks like everything is there except the seat. Just ordered a battery. I put it in the back burner because I couldn’t find any info on it these ignition systems and they look different/alien. Seeing this motivates me to get on it.
@@montana2strokeracer I’ll post some content soon. Sometimes I can get good tips from strangers when I do that. It’s just kinda alien looking system so I’ve put it on back burner for awhile until now
2 thumbs up as usual dale, 95 degrees here with 70 per/cent humidity and im not working on my bike today cause its just 2 hot, but i enjoy watching a professional work on his, glad i went along on the ride, catch-u-latter...
Great stuff as usual, thank you. My dyna-start (YA6/7) is the GS113 but looking at it, it is wired differently to the GS114. The brush and earth connection are joined through the baseplate it would seem. Wonder if Hitachi decided it was not a good enough route and decided to use a link wire instead. My dyna-starter turned into a smoke generator the first time I tried it, so I got a very clean replacement from the U.S. hope that will do the job. Gonna look at the kickstart area definitely, that is good to know. Of course, it makes sense, if you are astride the bike you cannot physically help but kick outwards, that's why none of my bikes still have kickstart rubbers, that's why my right shin has white marks down it when I get a suntan. Thanks again this is such a helpful channel.
Thanks John, I am not well versed on this setup, and I actually think they are very reliable, I have never run into this issue before, it seems that vibration after 50 years broke that wire. I am hoping that is the only problem. I really don't have anything to compare it to. I do think the YL2C may have the set up that you have on your YA6, but not sure. Anyhow, I'm sure there are some differences in the different units by different manufactures. I understand the mechanics a bit better than the electronics. Most of the problems with the kickstarter I think is more associated with the CT and AT enduros. Have not seen it on most other bikes.
@@montana2strokeracer I agree, they are probably very reliable, the dyna-starts certainly look to be well built solid units. I think mine was previously connected wrongly at some stage and one of the insulated posts that hold the brush carriers had partially burned the tufnol insulator washer, hence creating a short and the smoke, one day I will attempt a repair and keep it as a spare. I hope my armature is okay, I will test the system once the bike is running. I also replaced the regulator/rectifier coils with a modern solid state dynamo control unit pinched from one of my BSA's and kept the original starter switch coil as the shunt resistors were toast as well. Your GS114 brushes are in different locations which may explain why there is the long earth wire but your connections look to be the same colours and functions. Left to right - M (light green) I (orange) F (green) A (white) E (black). I bet the units would interchange if absolutely needed. I still do not really understand how it all works but it's interesting to slowly find out.
I’m working on the exact same bike and exact same parts. I’m waiting for a condenser to arrive. I got the same brand points too. Trying to find out why the coil is heating up when the bike is running.
Man, you have a lot of really nice bikes, gave you a sub, looking forward to watching you maintain them. Sounds like you're on the right track in your diagnoses. It could just be the coil too.
I'm not a fan of installing solid copper wire (as in romex) on anything that vibrates like an engine for example. As the copper vibrates it's work hardening, becoming brittle, and then eventually cracks, snaps. I prefer stranded wire and the more strands per the gauge of the wire the better. staycons of course can be crimped or soldered onto the ends. If soldering one must be very careful of how much solder they use in the joint. You don't want solder flowing up in the wire away from the stay-con because that will cause a stress point where vibration again will work harden the joint causing it to weaken and snap.
Hey Fred, you are right for sure, I understand but was just trying to repair it the same way it was manufactured, although I did reroute it for safety. Stranded would be far better for the vibration aspect. The original did last 50+ years though.
Hello Dale, you mentioned in this video that you accessed on online repair manual for the Yamaha AT 2. I'm looking for an online repair manual for my 1980 Yamaha MX 175 can you share the website ? Myron Davis Las Cruces NM.
Hey Myron, I am afraid you misunderstood me. I was talking about the parts lists. I much prefer the book over the online version that does not have all the same data in it. The book has all the dimensions of the shims, Orings, and the like, online does not.
All this was worth the watch but that first wire build was cool. That's filed away in the brain for future repairs. Thx Dale
Cool wire build. Nice to finally know why those kick starters are doing what they're doing. Thanks for the education Dale
Hey thanks John, yes most of them that have survived this long have that issue.
Fascinating repair. Very cool how you figured out what keeps going wring and how to fix it. Great lessons!
Thanks, buddy, pretty simple repair. Still some new shafts out there but they are getting expensive.
watching a little Dale with my coffee. Life is good.
First thing this morning, getting caught up on Dale's Shop Shenanigans!🤙👍
Hey Gigi, thanks a lot for stopping by. Shenanigans.....you bet, more on the way. LOL
You're a wealth of knowledge Dale.
Thank you! I am glad these videos are helpful.
Another excellent job my dear friend. !!
Thanks again!
I never would have thought to make that wire connector like you did. Probably would have just soldered a commercially bought eyelet connector on the old wire. Great Job!!!
Not sure its the best idea since vibration killed the first one. Just trying to repair the same way it was made.
Always amazing repairs and resolution my dear blessed friend.
Thank you sir.
Good explanation and repair on the kick starter.
Thank you, Doug, most of these bikes have these problems at this time in their lives.
Like the wire build and new placement 😊
Thanks Mike
Thanks Dale. Beautiful work as always. I think you did well to redo that stator wire link repair. Much better with the additional insulation.
Cheers, Peter.
Thank you, Peter, yes, I feel better about the insulation.
Nice work Dale! Great info!
Thank you, Dave, I sure appreciate it.
@@montana2strokeracer Did you have any luck finding those parts you're needing?
not yet, still hunting
Hopefully you might be able to find suitable substitutes if you can't find original parts. I have all the confidence that you will find a solution soon! Keep up the great work!
Some good fixes there Dale! I have one something similar on the input and output shafts on my old MT50 sports moped, I've basically reduce the end float down which improves the dog engagement of the gears. The one 'grey area' is accounting for how must the gasket will compress when the case screws are fully tightened up.
In most cases I wouldn't think the compression of the gasket, like the one I am using would be more than .003.
Hi Dale, been around electronics and vibration for a very long time, in my opinion fine stranded wire and soldered ends are paramount (primary wire) or something like that.
if you decide to use the solid wire, make sure to anneal the copper.
Rich
Thanks Rich, no doubt you are right. Just trying to use original type repairs if possible. Although I did move the wire to a safer location. The solid wire on there made it 50+ years, but yes, I know you have the better solution here. Thank you very much brother.
Great quality work as usual Dale. Best wishes, Dean.
Thanks Dean, moving forward on this one.
Dale
another fine video
just a comment re. the undercutting of the commutator if the brushes are copper leave it un cut ( copper brushes will roll over the segments if they are cut) if the bushes are carbon then by all means under cut the mica , but in dirty conditions we always back filled the slots with white plaster ( thick you use it to fill wall boards ) that will stop the slots filling with carbon deposits .
I was during my apprenticeship I spent a year in the armature and stator winding dept ( but that was 60 years ago now 77 ) we used the plaster on the 75hp DC motors on the cast iron ( ductile) pipe spinning machines to keep out the dirt , I have wound DC armature up to 200 hp and AC stators to 1000hp, but worked on AC fan motors up to 1.5 mega watt
Thanks Stuart, I'm sure you are right, I am going by the factory Yamaha service manual, that states to turn the armature no more than 2mm under the standard of 40mm diameter and then undercut the mica no more than .5 to .8mm, then sand to remove burrs. I have seen both copper and carbon brushes on these machines, the new ones I have on hand are carbon. These do get a lot of dust in them over time, but I normally just blow it off when I remove the cover. They are really pretty durable and don't normally require much maintenance. This is by far the worst I have seen in quite some time.
Bout to dig into an at1 project. Thanks 🙏 . No spark. Appreciate this
Awesome Vinny, you will get it figured out. You got a lot of long days to get her done. LOL
@@montana2strokeracer it’s a real gem. Looks like everything is there except the seat. Just ordered a battery. I put it in the back burner because I couldn’t find any info on it these ignition systems and they look different/alien. Seeing this motivates me to get on it.
Awesome, let me know how it turns out.
@@montana2strokeracer I’ll post some content soon. Sometimes I can get good tips from strangers when I do that. It’s just kinda alien looking system so I’ve put it on back burner for awhile until now
You will do fine, just set the points then use a dial indicator to set timing or use a timing light.
2 thumbs up as usual dale, 95 degrees here with 70 per/cent humidity and im not working on my bike today cause its just 2 hot, but i enjoy watching a professional work on his, glad i went along on the ride, catch-u-latter...
Thanks James, it's a hot week here. But the snow is coming brother.
Great job Dale, I have two AT1's I am going to redoing, this will give me a good how to.
Hey Don, you are up to the task my friend. Ready to watch when you're ready to do.
Thanks Dale for another great video . Still no luck on the HS 1 parts .
Thanks Murray, me either, but still looking. They will pop up.
I am here with coffee
Yes you do nice work Peace out
Great stuff as usual, thank you.
My dyna-start (YA6/7) is the GS113 but looking at it, it is wired differently to the GS114. The brush and earth connection are joined through the baseplate it would seem.
Wonder if Hitachi decided it was not a good enough route and decided to use a link wire instead.
My dyna-starter turned into a smoke generator the first time I tried it, so I got a very clean replacement from the U.S. hope that will do the job.
Gonna look at the kickstart area definitely, that is good to know.
Of course, it makes sense, if you are astride the bike you cannot physically help but kick outwards, that's why none of my bikes still have kickstart rubbers, that's why my right shin has white marks down it when I get a suntan.
Thanks again this is such a helpful channel.
Thanks John, I am not well versed on this setup, and I actually think they are very reliable, I have never run into this issue before, it seems that vibration after 50 years broke that wire. I am hoping that is the only problem. I really don't have anything to compare it to. I do think the YL2C may have the set up that you have on your YA6, but not sure. Anyhow, I'm sure there are some differences in the different units by different manufactures. I understand the mechanics a bit better than the electronics. Most of the problems with the kickstarter I think is more associated with the CT and AT enduros. Have not seen it on most other bikes.
@@montana2strokeracer I agree, they are probably very reliable, the dyna-starts certainly look to be well built solid units. I think mine was previously connected wrongly at some stage and one of the insulated posts that hold the brush carriers had partially burned the tufnol insulator washer, hence creating a short and the smoke, one day I will attempt a repair and keep it as a spare. I hope my armature is okay, I will test the system once the bike is running.
I also replaced the regulator/rectifier coils with a modern solid state dynamo control unit pinched from one of my BSA's and kept the original starter switch coil as the shunt resistors were toast as well.
Your GS114 brushes are in different locations which may explain why there is the long earth wire but your connections look to be the same colours and functions.
Left to right - M (light green) I (orange) F (green) A (white) E (black). I bet the units would interchange if absolutely needed.
I still do not really understand how it all works but it's interesting to slowly find out.
Good job brother.
Thanks Cain
few fiddly little jobs there dale but well sorted great job as always keep up the great work next video please
Thanks Mark!
Good chow...
rust is just Mother Nature reclaiming the stuff we took from her! She`s a tough old girl and will eventually get her stuff. LOL
Right on Frank
I’m working on the exact same bike and exact same parts. I’m waiting for a condenser to arrive. I got the same brand points too.
Trying to find out why the coil is heating up when the bike is running.
Man, you have a lot of really nice bikes, gave you a sub, looking forward to watching you maintain them. Sounds like you're on the right track in your diagnoses. It could just be the coil too.
made it, Hi, guys!
Hey Dale
I'm not a fan of installing solid copper wire (as in romex) on anything that vibrates like an engine for example. As the copper vibrates it's work hardening, becoming brittle, and then eventually cracks, snaps.
I prefer stranded wire and the more strands per the gauge of the wire the better. staycons of course can be crimped or soldered onto the ends. If soldering one must be very careful of how much solder they use in the joint. You don't want solder flowing up in the wire away from the stay-con because that will cause a stress point where vibration again will work harden the joint causing it to weaken and snap.
Hey Fred, you are right for sure, I understand but was just trying to repair it the same way it was manufactured, although I did reroute it for safety. Stranded would be far better for the vibration aspect. The original did last 50+ years though.
Would adding a little bit of dielectric grease be safe as well ?
Do you ever use the Allen head screws to assemble the cases?
I do if they came with them, most of the ones I do for others and myself for that matter, like original hardware. The internal hex is better no doubt.
Here
Hello Dale, you mentioned in this video that you accessed on online repair manual for the Yamaha AT 2. I'm looking for an online repair manual for my 1980 Yamaha MX 175 can you share the website ? Myron Davis Las Cruces NM.
Hey Myron, I am afraid you misunderstood me. I was talking about the parts lists. I much prefer the book over the online version that does not have all the same data in it. The book has all the dimensions of the shims, Orings, and the like, online does not.