You're a braver man than I, Michel. Cleaning out a coolant tank in a white tee shirt would be grounds for divorce in my house. Great hack with the Electrolux. Regards, Preso
Hi Michel, Great piece of pencil making, thank goodness your neighbour had the foresight to plant some pencil trees!! The change to oil looks promising. Have a great weekend!!
Love old hard disc magnets... back in the 1990s, I "discovered" neodymium by taking old hard discs apart... still a great source of free magnets today.
Very interesting project Michel, I would have been prone to a lighter viscosity, but as usual I will buy only the best, unless the price is right. The sump brought back odorous memories of the machinist equipment back in my working days. I am looking forward to your future adventures with motor oil, take care , thanks , and cheers! I think there may be some pencils in my two grand-daughters' futures!
I like this 'flood oiling' idea. Best of all, in a home/hobby environment where the machines are only used occasionally, you can leave it in the machine for years at a time. No rust, no putrid smell, no worries about it freezing if the shop isn't heated, and it won't evaporate. I don't know if it's available where you are, but my local auto parts store stocks some non-detergent motor oils. (I think they're mostly used in things like lawnmowers, where there's no oil filter, so ND should be good for this application too.) I already watched your later video, where you used mineral spirits to thin out the 40-weight oil you used, so I think I'll learn from your experience and start with 10-weight instead. 0-weight would probably be even better, but I haven't seen any ND-0 on store shelves. Thanks as always!
Oh, and your magnetic "oil filter" is a really clever idea too. When you first picked up your home made filter assembly, I was expecting there to be something like a drip coffee filter paper inside. No need for anything that complicated though. The magnets are simpler and, with the filter on it's side like you have it mounted, the magnets probably do a better job than a mechanical filter would anyway! You remind my of my dad in a lot of ways. He was always coming up with completely sensible and effective ideas like this, that nobody else would ever have thought of. I sure do miss him, and he would have enjoyed watching your videos with me. 🙏
Next up a giant pencil sharpener 😁 Motor oil is defiantly a bargain compared to industrial oils.. I've been lucky picking up oils from closing shops..in most cases they just give it away. Enjoyed !
As always, can't resist a Rustinox video. Cutting wood, and metal too, the teacher always said: Let the saw do the job. ( Don't push on the blad.).... When cooling is needed I also use oil!
I used to buy damaged drums of oil that were leaking or mangled from local depots when I lived in Texas. I would mix it with diesel to run in equipment and use the thinner oils or atf for cutting fluids. Living in Alaska now, I no longer have that luxury. I still use atf for cutting oil, though.
Good video. I’m 79. As a child, I saw my mother use an Electrolux vacuum cleaner, a lot. It was an older model than yours, slightly more rounded. I prefer hers. I bet it is still working somewhere, at least I hope it is. I had forgotten they were made in Sweden. It was quite heavy. Good suction.
I love your pencils Michel. Kids should ❤ them very much! Your engine 'cutting' oil worked very well. Another really good test would be to use longer hold down bolts and lift that block up off of the table with a parallel, and you should be able with that set up to cut a slice off the block in one go. Slitting saws are designed to do that sort of cutting in one action not to take three or even four goes to get through the material. I think you might star having to wear gloves when using the machine if you don't like getting very oily hands though lol
@@Rustinox A little while back I saw Josh Topper put the cheapest automatic transmission fluid he could find in his horizontal mill, to flush it and recommission the coolant, that seemed to work well, nice low viscosity and its a pretty colour as well 🙂
The pencil ✏️ is a great idea. Less likely you would misplace it in the workshop. Interesting experiment with oil in the coolant system. Good that it recycles to use again. Perhaps a thinner oil would drain quicker? Keep us updated Michel. Cheers Nobby
That test with oil as a coolant was really interesting. I don't have flood coolant set up on my mill, but it has a pump and a tank and I was considering trying oil, mainly for horizontal milling. So, thank you. Maybe I should invest some time and money into trying it out.
@@Rustinox Airline oil would be good as it is very thin but probably better would be biodiesel, being a vegetable based product it is non toxic but has incredible lubrication properties I use it in all my machining including reaming and tapping and have found nothing better, it is also relatively cheap.
@@Rustinox hi the "added salt" is misleading, sodium hypochlorite is the sodium salt of hypochlorous acid. Table salt is the equivalent from hydrochloric acid, hence why adding bleach to the coolant will tend to make steel rust a bit faster. Apologies for the long message I'm a chemical engineer in real life 😁
@@Paul-FrancisB In the French version of the specific 'Eu de Javel' Wikipedia page it says (via translate) "it is composed of pure sodium hypochlorite (NaClO), in aqueous solution with with salt (NaCl), residual from the manufacturing process." Interestingly I don't see that same info in the English version of the page, which redirects to a simple 'Bleach' page. So I didn't know if 'Eu de Javel' may technically be a bit different that the simple 'bleach' we get in the US.
Michel, outstanding video on the motor oil. Perhaps an even better choice and perhaps more economical; might be seed oils that should be used in engines and not used to cook food, but I digress. I would try canola, corn, soy or a blend and see how they do
G'day Rusty. Making your pencil worked out really well, so simple, you can make a fortune with a side business of pruning branches to make pencil ✏️ ✏️ ✏️ 😅😅😅. The oil substituted for water based coolant appears to work ok, the only problem for myself is the oily residue everywhere, which is harder to clean, & would not be viable on a Spinning chuck on a lathe, & definitely should never be used in mist sprayer like some operators use. & to those others who read this post, mist spraying is as bad as Vaping, because of the oil that gets sucked into the lungs then they have Major Problems Afterwards. Ted.
I'll be interested to hear how the oil goes long term. One consideration may be that you need to filter it more than the water based coolant as metal is more likely to stay suspended in the oil
I was shown by college instructors in the 70s. drilling a 1/2" hole in steel on a drill press first using coolant drilled very good. Then tried lubrication oil and the drill would not cut....... Has any one else done something similar
The oil for my horizontal mill was $180 USD (approx 165 Euros) for 5 gallons (19 liters). I held off on purchasing it until the last minute because it was so expensive. I'm not sure how that engine oil will work long term, but I suspect for us hobby machinists, it could be just fine. I know there are additives and detergents in engine oil, could affect things? 🤷🏼♂ Cheers!
you could try thinning the oil with kerosene or diesel. we used cutting oil when i was young but usually for specific jobs but i can't remember what they were. it wasn't trans fluid which i think is a vegetable oil
I would expect that the oil has less of a cooling effect. Water is a far better thermal conductor, oil tends to be slow in cooling (hence it is used when hardening steel). But Michel, as you say: "If it works....it works".
I think if coolant is leaving rust stains, it isn't mixed to the right concentration. (too much water to not enough oil) He also said he added "3 liters" of bleach to it? That seems like A LOT. To keep bacteria down, you probably need like 250mL at most!
@@Rustinox Are you sure you're supposed to use so much bleach? That sounds like WAY too much. If you ever go back to water based coolant, or on other machines, I'd mix it up to the correct (or slightly heavy) concentration, and then just add a little bit of bleach. It takes a very small amount of bleach to kill anything growing in the coolant. The other thing you can do is get a UV-A bulb, and shine that into the coolant reservoir - that will also kill any bacteria or other things growing in it. As long as the coolant is cycling by the UV, it should work quite well. Since 2020, UV-A germicidal bulbs are a lot easier to find and cheaper now.
A little lesson on wood, hard wood often isn't hard, like balsa wood although very soft is actually a hard wood. What makes a hard wood a hard wood is that the leaves fall in autumn, or as the yanks call it the fall. A soft wood keeps its leaves all year round. Deciduous trees hard, evergreens soft. Isn't arboriculture wonderful?😉 Best stick to metal!
To pretact my Bridgeport from rust i never use coolant, so the tools lives les long. I,m waiting for some more results and then i will try it on Bridgeport.
Great multi subject presentation. The damage to my tools from water is more than any benefit to me. Could have a "made in __________" video of were all the tools come from. Be well.
You're a braver man than I, Michel. Cleaning out a coolant tank in a white tee shirt would be grounds for divorce in my house. Great hack with the Electrolux.
Regards, Preso
Well, I'm single :)
Hi Michel, Great piece of pencil making, thank goodness your neighbour had the foresight to plant some pencil trees!!
The change to oil looks promising.
Have a great weekend!!
He could have planted some softer trees :)
@@Rustinox 😂😂😂👌👌
Love old hard disc magnets... back in the 1990s, I "discovered" neodymium by taking old hard discs apart... still a great source of free magnets today.
They can be very useful.
Very interesting project Michel, I would have been prone to a lighter viscosity, but as usual I will buy only the best, unless the price is right. The sump brought back odorous memories of the machinist equipment back in my working days. I am looking forward to your future adventures with motor oil, take care , thanks , and cheers!
I think there may be some pencils in my two grand-daughters' futures!
Just watch their faces when you give them :)
I like this 'flood oiling' idea. Best of all, in a home/hobby environment where the machines are only used occasionally, you can leave it in the machine for years at a time. No rust, no putrid smell, no worries about it freezing if the shop isn't heated, and it won't evaporate.
I don't know if it's available where you are, but my local auto parts store stocks some non-detergent motor oils. (I think they're mostly used in things like lawnmowers, where there's no oil filter, so ND should be good for this application too.)
I already watched your later video, where you used mineral spirits to thin out the 40-weight oil you used, so I think I'll learn from your experience and start with 10-weight instead. 0-weight would probably be even better, but I haven't seen any ND-0 on store shelves.
Thanks as always!
Oh, and your magnetic "oil filter" is a really clever idea too. When you first picked up your home made filter assembly, I was expecting there to be something like a drip coffee filter paper inside. No need for anything that complicated though. The magnets are simpler and, with the filter on it's side like you have it mounted, the magnets probably do a better job than a mechanical filter would anyway!
You remind my of my dad in a lot of ways. He was always coming up with completely sensible and effective ideas like this, that nobody else would ever have thought of. I sure do miss him, and he would have enjoyed watching your videos with me. 🙏
I think you just listed all the benefits :)
Next up a giant pencil sharpener 😁
Motor oil is defiantly a bargain compared to industrial oils.. I've been lucky picking up oils from closing shops..in most cases they just give it away.
Enjoyed !
That's very cheap indeed :)
I've been working in machine shops since the late 70's. I've never used anything but motor oil in my home shop.
So I suppose it works just fine.
@@Rustinox I am very picky. It has to be oil. my power saw is run with drain oil for coolant. nothing else uses coolant, i just spray oil on the work.
Loved it. I look forward to seeing how you get on with the oil conversion 👍 🇬🇧
I will post an update in a few weeks.
As always, can't resist a Rustinox video.
Cutting wood, and metal too, the teacher always said: Let the saw do the job. ( Don't push on the blad.)....
When cooling is needed I also use oil!
Thanks Stafen.
Nothing ventured, nothing gained. I was kind of wondering just how you made the giant pencils, very clever of you. 👍
Experimenting is fun. And also useful.
When it comes to Alu machining, oil will be your best friend.
Could well be.
So much fun. . Thanks for sharing the Build Your Own Pencil protocol. Wonderful. Glad the oil appears to be working as desired.
Now it's your turn to make some.
I used to buy damaged drums of oil that were leaking or mangled from local depots when I lived in Texas. I would mix it with diesel to run in equipment and use the thinner oils or atf for cutting fluids. Living in Alaska now, I no longer have that luxury. I still use atf for cutting oil, though.
Nice one Michel
good to try different approaches👍👍👍👍👍👍
atb
Kev
I think so too.
Good video. I’m 79. As a child, I saw my mother use an Electrolux vacuum cleaner, a lot. It was an older model than yours, slightly more rounded. I prefer hers. I bet it is still working somewhere, at least I hope it is.
I had forgotten they were made in Sweden. It was quite heavy. Good suction.
I dont know if Electrolux still exists. I will look it up.
I love your pencils Michel. Kids should ❤ them very much! Your engine 'cutting' oil worked very well. Another really good test would be to use longer hold down bolts and lift that block up off of the table with a parallel, and you should be able with that set up to cut a slice off the block in one go. Slitting saws are designed to do that sort of cutting in one action not to take three or even four goes to get through the material. I think you might star having to wear gloves when using the machine if you don't like getting very oily hands though lol
I almost never used slitting saws, so I have a lot to learn.
Good to see the oil works ok Rustinox. I might use similar. Cheers Tony
Go for it, but use thinner oil.
@@Rustinox A little while back I saw Josh Topper put the cheapest automatic transmission fluid he could find in his horizontal mill, to flush it and recommission the coolant, that seemed to work well, nice low viscosity and its a pretty colour as well 🙂
Love the pencils. Machine and coolant maintenance has to be done 😁
The pencil ✏️ is a great idea. Less likely you would misplace it in the workshop. Interesting experiment with oil in the coolant system. Good that it recycles to use again. Perhaps a thinner oil would drain quicker? Keep us updated Michel. Cheers Nobby
I think I will mix some aditive in it.
Well I’m not qualified in any way to comment on the coolant benefits, however I swear I could smell the oil as you poured it in, the power of visuals
Lol, this oil doesnt smell too much.
That test with oil as a coolant was really interesting. I don't have flood coolant set up on my mill, but it has a pump and a tank and I was considering trying oil, mainly for horizontal milling. So, thank you. Maybe I should invest some time and money into trying it out.
Go for it, but maybe use thinner oil.
@@Rustinox
Airline oil would be good as it is very thin but probably better would be biodiesel, being a vegetable based product it is non toxic but has incredible lubrication properties I use it in all my machining including reaming and tapping and have found nothing better, it is also relatively cheap.
FYI - 'Eau de Javel' is essentially chlorine bleach (plus some salt). Commonly used to disinfect pools (and of course bleaching white clothes).
You saved me typing the same, basically sodium hypochlorite bleach named after where it was once produced in Paris.
I didn't know there is also some salt in it.
@@Rustinox hi the "added salt" is misleading, sodium hypochlorite is the sodium salt of hypochlorous acid. Table salt is the equivalent from hydrochloric acid, hence why adding bleach to the coolant will tend to make steel rust a bit faster.
Apologies for the long message I'm a chemical engineer in real life 😁
@@Paul-FrancisB In the French version of the specific 'Eu de Javel' Wikipedia page it says (via translate) "it is composed of pure sodium hypochlorite (NaClO), in aqueous solution with with salt (NaCl), residual from the manufacturing process." Interestingly I don't see that same info in the English version of the page, which redirects to a simple 'Bleach' page. So I didn't know if 'Eu de Javel' may technically be a bit different that the simple 'bleach' we get in the US.
Have you given a thought to hydraulic oil. It could be got at a reasonable price as well or even transmission fluid
Good idea. I will check it.
a great little experiment.
I think so too.
Hard to argue with success! If it works, it works...
Absolutely.
Luv it (the Pencil manufacture)!!!
Thanks. Me too.
Great video rusty, keep'um coming..
Thanks.
Excellent thinking and a great result, thanks Michel
Thanks.
now you need a drip rack on a baking sheet for your table to let the parts drip the oil away
That makes sense. I will think about it.
Nice pencils Michel. It would be good to see how the oil goes in the machine after some time. I'm sure you will be making an update video.
I will, in a few weeks.
Great fun. 👍
Absolutely.
I would make one, but my neighbour doesn’t have a tree 🤷🏻♂️😂
I'm sure you will figure something out.
Go for it, seems fine.
Absolutely.
Thank you Michel! I will make one for my son!
Go for it.
Michel, outstanding video on the motor oil. Perhaps an even better choice and perhaps more economical; might be seed oils that should be used in engines and not used to cook food, but I digress. I would try canola, corn, soy or a blend and see how they do
your channel, I mean your activities are enjoyable and your approach inspires me. I wish you thousands of members Good job and humor
Thanks.
I like it !!
Thanks. Me too :)
Look into Marvel Mystery oil as a additive. To help to thin the oil some. It can help. Thank you for all you show us. love pencil!
Good idea. Thanks for the tip.
G'day Rusty. Making your pencil worked out really well, so simple, you can make a fortune with a side business of pruning branches to make pencil ✏️ ✏️ ✏️ 😅😅😅.
The oil substituted for water based coolant appears to work ok, the only problem for myself is the oily residue everywhere, which is harder to clean, & would not be viable on a Spinning chuck on a lathe, & definitely should never be used in mist sprayer like some operators use. & to those others who read this post, mist spraying is as bad as Vaping, because of the oil that gets sucked into the lungs then they have Major Problems Afterwards.
Ted.
I made a lot of these pencils, to raise money for cancer research.
Good for. Glad you helped others 😃 😊 😀
I'll be interested to hear how the oil goes long term. One consideration may be that you need to filter it more than the water based coolant as metal is more likely to stay suspended in the oil
I will post an update video in a few weeks.
Will you need to change your channel name to oilynox 🤔🤔🤔
You're right. That makes sense.
Michel in this application i use automatic transmission fluid i has very good cleaning properties and flows a lot better !
Kit from down under
Thanks for the tip.
👍😎
Thanks.
The word “bilge” comes to mind…🤔
Edit: oil as coolant really appeals to me. I think Stefan switched to it as well…thanks Rusti! 👍
Bilge, like in a ship's engine room.
White out and suntan lotion! :) Did I break the cypher?
lol.
I was shown by college instructors in the 70s. drilling a 1/2" hole in steel on a drill press first using coolant drilled very good. Then tried lubrication oil and the drill would not cut....... Has any one else done something similar
Nope, I never did the test.
I assume you've seen Stefan Gotteswinter's video about switching to neat oil on his FP1? If not, it's worth a watch!
Indeed, I did.
The oil for my horizontal mill was $180 USD (approx 165 Euros) for 5 gallons (19 liters). I held off on purchasing it until the last minute because it was so expensive. I'm not sure how that engine oil will work long term, but I suspect for us hobby machinists, it could be just fine. I know there are additives and detergents in engine oil, could affect things? 🤷🏼♂ Cheers!
That's indeed very expensive.
I will post an update video in a few weeks.
Mess and smoke are worries, certainly, but I would be much more concerned about fire,
Not sure, there is no heat.
you could try thinning the oil with kerosene or diesel. we used cutting oil when i was young but usually for specific jobs but i can't remember what they were. it wasn't trans fluid which i think is a vegetable oil
Vegetable oil is a bad idea - any organic seed / plant oils go rancid. It'll be worse than water based coolant.
The problem with diesel is the smell. I think I will find something else.
I would expect that the oil has less of a cooling effect. Water is a far better thermal conductor, oil tends to be slow in cooling (hence it is used when hardening steel). But Michel, as you say: "If it works....it works".
I think if coolant is leaving rust stains, it isn't mixed to the right concentration. (too much water to not enough oil) He also said he added "3 liters" of bleach to it? That seems like A LOT. To keep bacteria down, you probably need like 250mL at most!
It works :)
I Used a 10% mix, witch is double of what's needed. I also made a 10% mix with 3l bleach.
@@Rustinox Are you sure you're supposed to use so much bleach? That sounds like WAY too much. If you ever go back to water based coolant, or on other machines, I'd mix it up to the correct (or slightly heavy) concentration, and then just add a little bit of bleach. It takes a very small amount of bleach to kill anything growing in the coolant. The other thing you can do is get a UV-A bulb, and shine that into the coolant reservoir - that will also kill any bacteria or other things growing in it. As long as the coolant is cycling by the UV, it should work quite well. Since 2020, UV-A germicidal bulbs are a lot easier to find and cheaper now.
Good idea, do you think it will still work when the workshop is cold 🥶
15W-40 should maintain it's viscosity down to at least -10C. I hope he doesn't need to work in temps lower than that.
@@kindabluejazz 👍
I can mix some aditive if needed.
@@Rustinox Great, hope it works for you, I don’t know what the difference is between that and cutting oil apart from the higher price 😂😂
Different resourses is OK,Michel.The roosters are gone.Thank you.
:)
It might be a bit challenging putting that pencil behind your ear. 😀
You're right. I didn't think of that.
I always wondered why you an Electrolux in your workshop now I know.
To suck :)
A little lesson on wood, hard wood often isn't hard, like balsa wood although very soft is actually a hard wood. What makes a hard wood a hard wood is that the leaves fall in autumn, or as the yanks call it the fall. A soft wood keeps its leaves all year round. Deciduous trees hard, evergreens soft. Isn't arboriculture wonderful?😉 Best stick to metal!
I will stick to metal...
Magnets stick to metal...
@@Rustinox Are you secretly a magnet?
To pretact my Bridgeport from rust i never use coolant, so the tools lives les long. I,m waiting for some more results and then i will try it on Bridgeport.
I will post an update video in a few weeks.
Great multi subject presentation.
The damage to my tools from water is more than any benefit to me.
Could have a "made in __________" video of were all the tools come from.
Be well.
Thanks.
Simplemente cogí las escobillas de una amoladora que es grafito puro ya tengo mi escritura igual que la de un lápiz ✏️ original tachann🫴
Good idea.