Michel , congratulations on overcoming a large amount of obstacles and producing a great video and not forgetting an invaluable piece of machinery that will live on for ages. You should be commended for devoting a lot of time to help restore the railway system that no doubt will give many hours of enjoyment to a lot of people. 👍👍😊😊
Hi Michel. A Sunday afternoon job that turns into a three week job is definitely typical of my own projects. So many unforeseen problems to overcome. You showed that with patience it’s possible to get there. Looking forward to the next part. 👏👏👍😀
Well, at least we can share our ptsd stories about single point cutting gears 🤣. It looks great btw. I think those types of inserts only have a certain range of threads they can cut, but there are threading inserts that are more box shaped for cutting the larger threads (as well as your trapezoidal threads). In any case, well done on the project! Those little tangents are good learning experiences 👍😁👍. Cheers!
Michel, I would like to thank you for the time that yo take to make these videos, the humour that you inject and that you share your travails. As an amateur machinist I have a few myself too and I can empathise. Also as an Englishman with a smattering of French and no Flemish at all I would also like to commend your English.
Great video Michel, I tried a large thread like that a long time ago and found it had many unexpected challenges. I see I am not alone , enjoyed very much, cheers!
now you have a gear for the furture. for your stock being a little small you made it work. That railroad switch looks like it would be good at wrestling. good luck to you. Thanks Rusty
G'day Rusty Watched you make the gear, which turned out excellent. Now watching you cut the left & Right Hand threads was a pleasure. Excellent job all around. Ted
I've always ground my own HSS tools for thread cutting, but just started using some inserts I picked up from a tool stall at a steam rally I attended this summer. The biggest difference I found was that you didn't need the angled top slide as it appears they work well with a simple perpendicular plunge cut, maybe that's what's been loading them up too much ? ps. I now never angle the top slide for screw cutting (the way I was taught as an apprentice) the old Turner I worked with showed me the way he cut threads was by applying the cut with the cross slide, then advance the (set parallel) top slide a couple of thou each time to mimic the "hypotenuse" travel of an angled top slide.
If you watch Cutting Edge Engineering's channel out of Australia, that's the way Kurtis cuts threads, and he does some huge ones. He also never releases the half nuts. He stops the machine and reverses the rotation. That way, he never runs the risk of picking the wrong point on the threading dial.
That was quite a journey, a couple of hours work taking many hours, that's quite typical in my workshop to. And you have a 120 tooth gear for a future project as well. HSS to the rescue, old school methods hardly ever fail.
Someone asked me to make a couple of laser holders / heatsinks for them. Easy, right? One piece of aluminium bar, cut in half, with a 1/4-20 threaded hole on one side, a hole for the laser to push in on the other side, and a cross hole into the laser hole to get the wires out. Took me over 3 hours, with many surprises along the way, including the stock jumping out of the bandsaw vise and I invented a new "helical knurling on the bandsaw" technique in the process. I nearly needed a change of shorts after that technique was discovered too! Things always take a lot longer than you anticipate
Hi Michel, Well done for finishing the 120 tooth gear, it's a real shame you didn't need it in the end. Still at least you found out more details on your lathe. I think I have the BS spec for Whitworth threads I'll see if I can root it out it's one of the earliest in the series. Sometimes I find pieces which are described as Whitworth but they really mean pipe threads which is the same thread form but different sizes!! Love seeing these railway, ok tramway, restorations. Looks forward to seeing this one finished!! Have a great weekend!!
Hi Michel ☺ well done on the thread cutting, got to keep the trains running, and now you have to Switch to another job. Cheers my friend, thanks for another interesting video mate, stay safe, best wishe's to you and your's, Stuart UK.
Good result. On days like that, when everything goes wrong, sometimes its better to admit defeat, shut the workshop door and try again tomorrow! As for carbide threading inserts, I never use them. Just like gear tooth cutters, I'd never have the one I needed, so I always use HSS.
So what if it took you three weeks Michel. You got it done and it works. If you've not cut Imperial Whitworth threads before, you have conquered a mountain in engineering terms, so don't beat yourself up my friend!
If your threading 55 degrees, your compound should be half, so 27.5 degrees. When we do 60 degree threads, we set the compound at 30. Some people like to go an extra degree to 29.
@ you live in the metric world. Imperial lead screw will not sync cutting metric, so you have to back the machine up. I live 3/4 time in imperial world and still back up my machine because for short threads it is still faster than waiting for the thread indicator to come around to the mark, ( and I am less likely to screw up)
Very good solution. Too bad about your unexpected spacer. That’s far more work than I’d ever put into making a spacer, a gear, maybe.😊 that’s a very unusual lathe. Who makes it, I’ve been wondering about that for a while. You may gave told us, but my memory for names is poor.
I thought those little inserts looked too small for a beefy 7 TPI thread. But you are very skilled at getting a solution and it came out 👍 Regarding your 120 tooth gear, it is possible that will still useful for impreial-metric conversion, ie cutting metric threads with your 4 TPI imperial lathe leadscrew?
What brand of insert were those? They look like they make a nice chip even if they didn't last long. Never a shortage of "projects" for competent people. Take care and thanks for the video.
So now that you've made the 120 tooth gear, do you have to make a new metric leadscrew to be able to use it :D Love you videos Michel, especially enjoy your sense of humor :D
Dear Rustinox Given you have to make 7 tpi, the major diameter of the thread was somewhere around 31 mm, and the angle was 55 degree rather than 60 degree, could the original part be 1 1/4 inch BSW?
I do believe that he mentions Whitworth threads at one point. This railway might be a holdover from the WW I when the British army might have installed narrow gauge railways to aid their army's logistics at the battle front. Just a supposition on my part. Maybe even WW II. Maybe Michael can expand?
hey michel, i heard my name come up. and I thought it would probably go well with those inserts. but I didn't expect this. 🤯 I've never seen an insert snap like that. when I thread (CNC). was the angle right? I guess you had too much touch. or that the insert moves. I think this is quite a shame to see and now I want to know how this can be prevented. (for a next project) if I have time soon I will do a test at work
@Rustinox still find it strange. what was the speed you used for threading. I'm going to try it on the Colchester. it is almost the same size as your lathe.
@@Rustinox That's very slow even for HSS. your speed comes out to a vc of 17. you are allowed vc 25 which is 270 rpm. (this is for hss) and for the insert a vc of 100 is about 1100 rpm
Michel - pls explain...am i lost here or what?? a joke i dont get?? why set the topslide to 55 deg.? when i cut threads i just go by eye for all threads..guess i set the topslide at about 25-30 deg. so why set the topslide at the angle you are cutting?? i dont get it
maybe a insert made from chinesium... Happend to many of us. I only use Iscar or other brand inserts. The chinesium look almost perfect on a salesimage but the material seems to be useless. I dont know how you broke yours but i break mine onle when the exert cuttingpressure from the underside, and that only happend when i dont pull put the sledge away from the thread cut. Maybe you try the 30° methode. That changes the cutting pressure onto the insert to one side. Heres a clip on "how-to" th-cam.com/video/WqTliEGrhL4/w-d-xo.html Another adavantage that HSS steel has in comparission ton tungstencarbid is its rigitity and flexability. It may not be as longlasting but you will get away with alot of sh*t you maybe do down the road... I wouldnt give away my HSS steel for tungstencarbid. It is easy resharpend and takes a lot of beating. =) Nice work mate nice work, good job. Hope see soon what you do with the lever-thing. I assume you will drill out the stuck bolt but im ready for a surprise ;)
@@Rustinox makes sense then the cuttingpressure is to high and then the insert snaps. Try the 30° methode that will lower the cuttingpressure by 1/2 best of luck
USA importers of Chinese lathes and mills think it's clever to sell them with Imperial screws. I work in metric, so I have the bastard gear set, and cannot use the thread dial.
So Michael, how do you spell phuqed up in Belgian? Well, at least you now have a nice shiny 120 tooth gear. Actually, it would make a neat clock face if you can find a clock movement where the minute hand steps in half minute intervals. Each tooth would signify a half minute. Just a suggestion, of course. Regards from Canada's banana belt . 🤞🇨🇦🍌🥋🇺🇦🕊🇧🇪👜🐖🏁👍
Thanks Michel, enjoyed that. The Railroad Association is lucky to have you 👍
Thanks. I sure hope so :)
Doh!
That gear was a lot of work 😳
But fun to do.
Michel , congratulations on overcoming a large amount of obstacles and producing a great video and not forgetting an invaluable piece of machinery that will live on for ages. You should be commended for devoting a lot of time to help restore the railway system that no doubt will give many hours of enjoyment to a lot of people. 👍👍😊😊
Thanks. It's fun to do.
You're in good company. My Sunday afternoon projects always takes 3 weeks! 🤣
Nice. It means you have always someting to do :)
Hi Michel. A Sunday afternoon job that turns into a three week job is definitely typical of my own projects. So many unforeseen problems to overcome. You showed that with patience it’s possible to get there. Looking forward to the next part. 👏👏👍😀
Thanks. Just go for it.
Very well done,Michel.Thank you.
Thanks.
Well, at least we can share our ptsd stories about single point cutting gears 🤣. It looks great btw.
I think those types of inserts only have a certain range of threads they can cut, but there are threading inserts that are more box shaped for cutting the larger threads (as well as your trapezoidal threads).
In any case, well done on the project! Those little tangents are good learning experiences 👍😁👍.
Cheers!
It's the first time I use inserts for threading. I have a lot to learn.
Yay! HSS tooling to the rescue. Sometimes it's better to go old school.
Regards, Preso
Absolutely.
Michel,
I would like to thank you for the time that yo take to make these videos, the humour that you inject and that you share your travails. As an amateur machinist I have a few myself too and I can empathise. Also as an Englishman with a smattering of French and no Flemish at all I would also like to commend your English.
Thanks.
All over it like a cheap suit there Rusty . Good result . 👍👍👍
Finally :)
Love your sense of humor 😂
Thanks.
Great video Michel, I tried a large thread like that a long time ago and found it had many unexpected challenges. I see I am not alone , enjoyed very much, cheers!
Well no, you're not alone.
now you have a gear for the furture. for your stock being a little small you made it work. That railroad switch looks like it would be good at wrestling. good luck to you. Thanks Rusty
Well, it sure did put up a fight.
G'day Rusty Watched you make the gear, which turned out excellent. Now watching you cut the left & Right Hand threads was a pleasure.
Excellent job all around.
Ted
Thanks Ted.
Great job Hss for the win
Thanks.
Nice work mister. It’s great to save the past. Keep it coming
Absolutely.
I've always ground my own HSS tools for thread cutting, but just started using some inserts I picked up from a tool stall at a steam rally I attended this summer. The biggest difference I found was that you didn't need the angled top slide as it appears they work well with a simple perpendicular plunge cut, maybe that's what's been loading them up too much ?
ps. I now never angle the top slide for screw cutting (the way I was taught as an apprentice) the old Turner I worked with showed me the way he cut threads was by applying the cut with the cross slide, then advance the (set parallel) top slide a couple of thou each time to mimic the "hypotenuse" travel of an angled top slide.
If you watch Cutting Edge Engineering's channel out of Australia, that's the way Kurtis cuts threads, and he does some huge ones. He also never releases the half nuts. He stops the machine and reverses the rotation. That way, he never runs the risk of picking the wrong point on the threading dial.
For me, setting the top slide in an angle is easier to work.
That was quite a journey, a couple of hours work taking many hours, that's quite typical in my workshop to. And you have a 120 tooth gear for a future project as well. HSS to the rescue, old school methods hardly ever fail.
Someone asked me to make a couple of laser holders / heatsinks for them. Easy, right? One piece of aluminium bar, cut in half, with a 1/4-20 threaded hole on one side, a hole for the laser to push in on the other side, and a cross hole into the laser hole to get the wires out. Took me over 3 hours, with many surprises along the way, including the stock jumping out of the bandsaw vise and I invented a new "helical knurling on the bandsaw" technique in the process. I nearly needed a change of shorts after that technique was discovered too! Things always take a lot longer than you anticipate
Time is not important in the hobby shop.
Michel, great job on repairing the turnbuckle! I enjoyed see ing you repair the thread with HHS ground tool!
HSS to the recue :)
Great job mate, worked out well, cheers
Thanks Matty. I'm happy with the result.
But that new gear/spacer sure looks nice and shiny !
Nice threads 👍👍
Thanks.
I love your videos and sense of humor. Also...what an exceptionally well made spacer!!
Thanks.
Hi Michel, Well done for finishing the 120 tooth gear, it's a real shame you didn't need it in the end. Still at least you found out more details on your lathe.
I think I have the BS spec for Whitworth threads I'll see if I can root it out it's one of the earliest in the series. Sometimes I find pieces which are described as Whitworth but they really mean pipe threads which is the same thread form but different sizes!!
Love seeing these railway, ok tramway, restorations. Looks forward to seeing this one finished!!
Have a great weekend!!
No problem for the gear. It was fun to make.
Great video rusty, keep'um coming.
Thanks.
12" to the foot scale model railroads are the best to play with!
Could be.
11/11/11 Lest we forget . I watch your video thank you from the family.
Kit from down under
Thanks Kit. Send them my greetings.
Nice one Michel 🎉 hope you are keeping well, thank you for sharing buddy
Thanks. I'm fine.
All is well that ends well. 👍
Absolutely.
Michel, Excellent work on that switchgear. It seems that your scope of usefulness is expanding from barges to railroads.
It makes sense. The rail road is only a 10 min drive. The barges is 2 hours drive.
Nice work, Rusti! 👍 Not everyone gets to play with a train set that large. 😁
Some trains are even larger :)
Hi Michel ☺ well done on the thread cutting, got to keep the trains running, and now you have to Switch to another job. Cheers my friend, thanks for another interesting video mate, stay safe, best wishe's to you and your's, Stuart UK.
Thanks Stuart.
Good result. On days like that, when everything goes wrong, sometimes its better to admit defeat, shut the workshop door and try again tomorrow!
As for carbide threading inserts, I never use them. Just like gear tooth cutters, I'd never have the one I needed, so I always use HSS.
You're right.Some times it's more productive to just have a beer.
Great back to the future
Lol.
hay man turned metal shop to wood now. but so good to see you looking so much better bless you and your content!
Thanks.
Nice one Michel
see you next time😉😉👍👍🚂🚂
atb
Kev
Thanks Kev.
I use the 120/127 tooth gears to convert my lathe to metric! Came with the lathe.😊
Well, I had to make myself :)
At times you had my bewilderment totally confused.😵💫
Oops.
So what if it took you three weeks Michel. You got it done and it works. If you've not cut Imperial Whitworth threads before, you have conquered a mountain in engineering terms, so don't beat yourself up my friend!
No worries. I had a good time making it.
I learnt something today. Cheers friend👍
Nice.
Thank you, happy to see Im not alone when it comes to problems:) Great work. Always looking forward to your vids.
Well no, you're not alone.
When are we going to see a video with you on the historic train ? Thanks for the video.
You will. But it will probably be after the winter.
Great
good video rustinox..thanks for your time
Thanks.
I knew you would get there in the end. 👍😎
Me too :)
Morning Michel. Good job on the 7 TPI thread mate. Cheers, Aaron.
Thanks Aaron.
Good job.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks.
Comment for the algorithm 👍👍
Thanks.
I really love your videos, come and cool 💪
Thanks.
If your threading 55 degrees, your compound should be half, so 27.5 degrees. When we do 60 degree threads, we set the compound at 30. Some people like to go an extra degree to 29.
Indeed.
Thanks for sharing.
Welcome.
Good.
Thanks.
Great video. I noticed that insert dont work on large threads also
Maybe that is the problem.
If that lead screw is 4TPI, you can use a thread indicator, 7TPI engages every inch.
I don't have a thread dial for this machine.
@ you live in the metric world. Imperial lead screw will not sync cutting metric, so you have to back the machine up. I live 3/4 time in imperial world and still back up my machine because for short threads it is still faster than waiting for the thread indicator to come around to the mark, ( and I am less likely to screw up)
Hi Michel! Good job! But I think Celtic need new paint...😔
I'm looking for a volunteer to do that for me. Interested?
@@Rustinox, sure! I like to paint something!😁
Very good solution. Too bad about your unexpected spacer. That’s far more work than I’d ever put into making a spacer, a gear, maybe.😊 that’s a very unusual lathe. Who makes it, I’ve been wondering about that for a while. You may gave told us, but my memory for names is poor.
The lathe is a Celtic 14, made by Mondiale in Belgium.
mondiale.be
@ thanks. I haven’t heard of them before.
Oh, that gear! . . . .
Useless for the moment :)
I thought those little inserts looked too small for a beefy 7 TPI thread.
But you are very skilled at getting a solution and it came out 👍
Regarding your 120 tooth gear, it is possible that will still useful for impreial-metric conversion, ie cutting metric threads with your 4 TPI imperial lathe leadscrew?
The 120 gear will be used to cut module threads.
And indeed, the thread inserts are a bit small for these threads.
cool
Thanks.
What brand of insert were those? They look like they make a nice chip even if they didn't last long. Never a shortage of "projects" for competent people. Take care and thanks for the video.
I don't know the brand, but they work very well up to 1,5mm depth. Cutting deeper becomes more difficult.
So now that you've made the 120 tooth gear, do you have to make a new metric leadscrew to be able to use it :D
Love you videos Michel, especially enjoy your sense of humor :D
I hope not :)
At least in three weeks you have three Sunday afternoons. Never say it’s going to be a quick job out loud. Bad mistake. Cheers Nobby
Indeed, I made that mistake several times before.
Dear Rustinox
Given you have to make 7 tpi, the major diameter of the thread was somewhere around 31 mm, and the angle was 55 degree rather than 60 degree, could the original part be 1 1/4 inch BSW?
I do believe that he mentions Whitworth threads at one point. This railway might be a holdover from the WW I when the British army might have installed narrow gauge railways to aid their army's logistics at the battle front. Just a supposition on my part. Maybe even WW II. Maybe Michael can expand?
No idea. I'm not at all in these things. All I do is helping fixing stuff.
Is there alot of railway and trains industry in belgium?
Belgium has the most dense rail network of Europe.
HSS wins. But what kind of grinding stone did you use to grind the tip of the carbide insert?
Just very carefully on the bench grinder.
does your lathe not have a threading dial? You seem to be keeping the half nuts engaged during the entire threading process... ??
Nope, no threading dial.
hey michel, i heard my name come up. and I thought it would probably go well with those inserts. but I didn't expect this. 🤯
I've never seen an insert snap like that. when I thread (CNC).
was the angle right? I guess you had too much touch.
or that the insert moves.
I think this is quite a shame to see and now I want to know how this can be prevented. (for a next project) if I have time soon I will do a test at work
In the beginning it went perfectly fine, with a very nice chip. It started so go south when the cut was deeper then 1,5mm.
@Rustinox still find it strange. what was the speed you used for threading. I'm going to try it on the Colchester. it is almost the same size as your lathe.
@@DoMetalStuff 180 rpm. for a diameter of 30mm. It's very slow.
@@Rustinox That's very slow even for HSS. your speed comes out to a vc of 17. you are allowed vc 25 which is 270 rpm. (this is for hss) and for the insert a vc of 100 is about 1100 rpm
Michel - pls explain...am i lost here or what?? a joke i dont get?? why set the topslide to 55 deg.? when i cut threads i just go by eye for all threads..guess i set the topslide at about 25-30 deg. so why set the topslide at the angle you are cutting?? i dont get it
I explane in this video. Make sure to check out Mark's video too.
th-cam.com/video/_lDFBGxVwFM/w-d-xo.html
maybe a insert made from chinesium... Happend to many of us. I only use Iscar or other brand inserts. The chinesium look almost perfect on a salesimage but the material seems to be useless.
I dont know how you broke yours but i break mine onle when the exert cuttingpressure from the underside, and that only happend when i dont pull put the sledge away from the thread cut.
Maybe you try the 30° methode. That changes the cutting pressure onto the insert to one side. Heres a clip on "how-to" th-cam.com/video/WqTliEGrhL4/w-d-xo.html
Another adavantage that HSS steel has in comparission ton tungstencarbid is its rigitity and flexability. It may not be as longlasting but you will get away with alot of sh*t you maybe do down the road... I wouldnt give away my HSS steel for tungstencarbid. It is easy resharpend and takes a lot of beating. =)
Nice work mate nice work, good job.
Hope see soon what you do with the lever-thing. I assume you will drill out the stuck bolt but im ready for a surprise ;)
These are very good quality inserts. I think its the chip that doesnt clear very well.
@@Rustinox makes sense then the cuttingpressure is to high and then the insert snaps. Try the 30° methode that will lower the cuttingpressure by 1/2 best of luck
USA importers of Chinese lathes and mills think it's clever to sell them with Imperial screws. I work in metric, so I have the bastard gear set, and cannot use the thread dial.
I don't even have a thread dial...
So Michael, how do you spell phuqed up in Belgian?
Well, at least you now have a nice shiny 120 tooth gear. Actually, it would make a neat clock face if you can find a clock movement where the minute hand steps in half minute intervals. Each tooth would signify a half minute. Just a suggestion, of course.
Regards from Canada's banana belt .
🤞🇨🇦🍌🥋🇺🇦🕊🇧🇪👜🐖🏁👍
"Phuqed up" is almost correct :)