Nice video. Just a few things to add. 1) The drain bolt and oil filter should be torqued to Honda specs. The oil filter torque spec actually seems quite high at 19 lb-ft. The drain plug is 25 lb-ft. 2) You didn't say if you saw the oil level drop after your test ride. I assume it did a little. After filling with new oil, I would run for 3 minutes, let sit for 3 minutes, and check the level (and adjust if necessary) before putting the plastic side cover back on. Last, people do call those "crush washers", but they are just either aluminum or copper flat washers. Real crush washers are not flat and have curved sides that flatten out when you "crush" them during tightening. And, you can easily change the flat washers every other time. The soft metal will reform the seal with the proper torque. Just nit picking here, so thanks for the nice video.
I was using synthetic mobile 1 10w-40 racing 4t in my 04 and started having issues with the starter not turning engine during cold weather. It would just free spin. Now I use the honda recommended HP4 10W-40. I was also getting a lot of oil foaming in the airbox and crankcase ventilation tubes. HP4 specifically mentions anti-foaming. I think overall it's better for this bike despite being a synthetic-blend
I haven't read all the comments, but what I did with my oil collection container like that is put a piece of 1/4" hardware cloth in it to catch the oil pan bolt if I drop it. Problem solved. Also, I wouldn't use any tool to tighten a new oil filter. Finger tight is very sufficient. I also use latex gloves when I'm working with fluids. It makes clean-up a lot easier.
I own 2020 DCT Tour. I use a T. Wrench on all drain bolts (22 f/lb) with fresh crush washers all the time and I do 19 on the oil filter. After 3 years of owning and many oil changes, zero issues, so far. If you follow the manual, you should be fine. You will not break the bolts or damage anything. I do recommend to use a good oil filter socket !!! Also, to all DCT owners, use the regular GN4 10-30 Honda oil. I don't put anything else....period. A large Honda dealer, head mechanic told me just that.
You're supposed to have the bike on the side stand for draining oil, so it all slopes to the left where the plug is. Not the end of the world, but you won't get as much old oil out if you have it on the center stand. Also, I've used Seafoam in my oil for the last two changes. I haven't seen a problem with my clutch, and with as many miles as I've got on the bike, it's probably good that I'm cleaning out the crankcase.
I have been using Rotella T6 5W-40 for the last 100,000+ miles. Change it and the filter ever 10K. Sent in a sample to Blackstone Laboratories a year or two ago and they said that all is well. Even said that if I wanted to go longer than 10,000 miles between changes that I could. Good to know, but every 10 makes it easy to remember.
Hello Just a note regarding the size of the drain bolt. I have a 2012 wing changed oil today, and my bolt is 17mm. You mentioned yours was 13mm. Ride safe.. Joe...in Nova Scotia Canada
I just purchase the same bike yesterday. It had less than 40k on the odometer, an upgraded suspension system and all the service documents and a lot of extras. I had to ride it 180 miles home and it exceeded my expectations
I use Amsoil full syn as well. Both in my Harley and my GoldWing. Good stuff. I change my Harley oil every 3k. My Wing every 4 to 5k. I live in the Southwest where it’s quite dusty.
I like the drain pan. Do you need to unscrew the centre plug when draining and then tighten it up to keep the fluid retained? Haven't seen those pans myself.
Three comments: 1. I hook a ratchet strap from the center stand to the right crash bar anytime I'm under the bike. 2. Amazon sells a flexible oil plug removal tool with a magnet. No more dropped drain plugs and oil covered hand/fingers. 3. Stopped using newspaper and went to oil absorbent pads.
Hello, excellent video, I have a Honda Goldwing 1800cc 2006 35 k, what do you recommend and where can I buy everything and the device to remove the filter, thank you
I buy my oil in those 1 gallon bottles, never throw them out! Catch your oil in a pan like that one but then (carefully) dump your used oil into an empty oil bottle and put it in a Rubbermaid tub for transportation. Just hand the whole thing in to the auto parts store. I’ve found the pan can get dirty and my pan cap doesn’t seal too well while those bottles work great as that’s what they’re designed for.
For 15 years never mind changing the crush washer, I never used one at all and never a drip. I'm not recommending it but I just kept forgetting to get a new one.
Just use an aluminum washer. Aluminum is soft, as is copper. Torque it correctly and it'll form fit. I haven't had a problem in more years than I can remember.
D2, great videography! Every step was shown full view- nothing being blocked out, top notch doing!👍🏍️😎 Doug
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it!
Nice video.
Just a few things to add. 1) The drain bolt and oil filter should be torqued to Honda specs. The oil filter torque spec actually seems quite high at 19 lb-ft. The drain plug is 25 lb-ft. 2) You didn't say if you saw the oil level drop after your test ride. I assume it did a little. After filling with new oil, I would run for 3 minutes, let sit for 3 minutes, and check the level (and adjust if necessary) before putting the plastic side cover back on. Last, people do call those "crush washers", but they are just either aluminum or copper flat washers. Real crush washers are not flat and have curved sides that flatten out when you "crush" them during tightening. And, you can easily change the flat washers every other time. The soft metal will reform the seal with the proper torque. Just nit picking here, so thanks for the nice video.
Very helpful video for me as I am a new owner of a 2006 Gold Wing Gl 1800
Glad it helped.
I was using synthetic mobile 1 10w-40 racing 4t in my 04 and started having issues with the starter not turning engine during cold weather. It would just free spin. Now I use the honda recommended HP4 10W-40. I was also getting a lot of oil foaming in the airbox and crankcase ventilation tubes. HP4 specifically mentions anti-foaming. I think overall it's better for this bike despite being a synthetic-blend
I haven't read all the comments, but what I did with my oil collection container like that is put a piece of 1/4" hardware cloth in it to catch the oil pan bolt if I drop it. Problem solved. Also, I wouldn't use any tool to tighten a new oil filter. Finger tight is very sufficient.
I also use latex gloves when I'm working with fluids. It makes clean-up a lot easier.
Awesome, thank you for sharing that ! 👍
I own 2020 DCT Tour. I use a T. Wrench on all drain bolts (22 f/lb) with fresh crush washers all the time and I do 19 on the oil filter. After 3 years of owning and many oil changes, zero issues, so far. If you follow the manual, you should be fine. You will not break the bolts or damage anything. I do recommend to use a good oil filter socket !!! Also, to all DCT owners, use the regular GN4 10-30 Honda oil. I don't put anything else....period. A large Honda dealer, head mechanic told me just that.
You're supposed to have the bike on the side stand for draining oil, so it all slopes to the left where the plug is. Not the end of the world, but you won't get as much old oil out if you have it on the center stand. Also, I've used Seafoam in my oil for the last two changes. I haven't seen a problem with my clutch, and with as many miles as I've got on the bike, it's probably good that I'm cleaning out the crankcase.
Seafoam is incredible stuff! I use it in my cars, my tractor, and my motorcycles.
I have been using Rotella T6 5W-40 for the last 100,000+ miles. Change it and the filter ever 10K. Sent in a sample to Blackstone Laboratories a year or two ago and they said that all is well. Even said that if I wanted to go longer than 10,000 miles between changes that I could. Good to know, but every 10 makes it easy to remember.
I have a Suzuki Boulevard C90T in addition to my 2004 Wing, and I also use Rotella T6. Always have, always will. It's great stuff!!
Hello
Just a note regarding the size of the drain bolt. I have a 2012 wing changed oil today, and my bolt is 17mm. You mentioned yours was 13mm.
Ride safe..
Joe...in Nova Scotia Canada
My fav GW info channel I'm a new 1800 GW owner thanx😊
My pleasure, enjoy the videos.
great video getting my goldwing 1800 2008 in two days thanks for video
I just purchase the same bike yesterday. It had less than 40k on the odometer, an upgraded suspension system and all the service documents and a lot of extras. I had to ride it 180 miles home and it exceeded my expectations
Great Job. Nice and easy. Great smooth instructions. Thank you.
You're welcome!
I also have an 2002. Been all over the USA😁. Use mobil one bike oil. Seems to run fine. Great video. Thank you. Ride far and safe🎅🏼🏍🇺🇸
Great video. Thanks for the great tutorial
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video…can’t thank you enough! 👍🏻😄
Glad you liked it! Thank you for watching.
Nice video! Thank you!
You are welcome, thank you for watching!
I use Amsoil full syn as well. Both in my Harley and my GoldWing. Good stuff. I change my Harley oil every 3k. My Wing every 4 to 5k. I live in the Southwest where it’s quite dusty.
I like the drain pan. Do you need to unscrew the centre plug when draining and then tighten it up to keep the fluid retained? Haven't seen those pans myself.
Three comments: 1. I hook a ratchet strap from the center stand to the right crash bar anytime I'm under the bike. 2. Amazon sells a flexible oil plug removal tool with a magnet. No more dropped drain plugs and oil covered hand/fingers. 3. Stopped using newspaper and went to oil absorbent pads.
Hello, excellent video, I have a Honda Goldwing 1800cc 2006 35 k, what do you recommend and where can I buy everything and the device to remove the filter, thank you
Thank you for watching! There are links to oil and accessories in the description. I bought the oil filter tool from my local Honda shop.
Added link in the description for the oil filter socket wrench.
Very nice.
What back ready do you have on your Goldwing?
I buy my oil in those 1 gallon bottles, never throw them out! Catch your oil in a pan like that one but then (carefully) dump your used oil into an empty oil bottle and put it in a Rubbermaid tub for transportation. Just hand the whole thing in to the auto parts store. I’ve found the pan can get dirty and my pan cap doesn’t seal too well while those bottles work great as that’s what they’re designed for.
For 15 years never mind changing the crush washer, I never used one at all and never a drip. I'm not recommending it but I just kept forgetting to get a new one.
can you use a oil additive like prolong ? I use that in all my cars
If it’s not required or recommended in the service manual than it’s not needed IMO.
Are you still using Amsoil? If so how do you like it compared to just regular oil?
@d2destinations106 ok thanks so much
there is no need to replace the crush washer every time you change oil
Would someone film the dipstick with a close up view? Where can I find one of those crushable washers? There’s no Honda dealer anywhere near me.
Just use an aluminum washer. Aluminum is soft, as is copper. Torque it correctly and it'll form fit. I haven't had a problem in more years than I can remember.
dont need full syn i have a 2005 and honda says gn3 is all you need
Please translate the instructions into Arabic
Interested in following your page
Leave the cover off till after test drive
I have good mechanic, for a few euros he does it ☺☺