You are right, I could have explained some things in more detail. Thank you for the feedback. As for the linewidth, a general rule of thumb is not to go wider than around 1.5 times your nozzle width. With a 0.4 mm nozzle, that is 0.6 mm. For this print, with 3 walls and standard settings, you get 0.42 mm + 2 x 0.45 mm = 1.32 mm. If you use 2 walls with 0.6 mm, you get a 1.2 mm thick wall, which is nearly the same as before with 1/3 less distance traveled. Two thick lines also tend to be stronger than three thin ones, even if you have the same total wall thickness. Everything above 0.6 mm with a 0.4 mm nozzle can lead to problems while printing. If you still want wider lines, you are probably better off using a bigger nozzle. I hope that helps. Anything else in particular you have questions about?
Two settings that I also didn't give enough explanation to are: "Ensure vertical shell thickness" and "avoid crossing walls." These can have a significant impact on your printing time as well as quality. If enough people are interested, I will make a future video about when and how to use them correctly. I will probably showcase them on my most optimized model, which I have literally printed thousands of times. Edit: New video it out, which explains "avoid crossing walls" in detail, anyone interested can checkt it out here: th-cam.com/video/CxbidoZCw1A/w-d-xo.html Another video on the subject of print optimization which explains "Ensure vertical shell thickness" will follow soon. I hope this will be some additional help!
@@Factorian_Designs as someone completely new to 3D printing it's helpful having the information split across multiple videos anyway. Only so much information I can absorb at once, going over a couple settings and explaining what they do, when to use them, pros / cons, would be perfect! My main takeaway from this video was that we can create geometries to selectively change infill, along with other settings. Even just seeing you scale and move the geometries is helpful. I've scaled prints down a bit to fit my A1 mini, but I don't know what I'm doing, it's useful seeing someone else interact with the slicer.
Any miniature video on time and settings for best results for .2mm nozzle would be great for the future. Also great ideas for vases. BTW would that still be waterproof?
I don't have much experience with minatures so I will probably have to pass on that. But yes the vase should still be waterproof. If not slightly increase your extrusion factor and printing temperature.
Why do you think z hop has no benefit? It was implemented for a reason, it greatly reduces the risk of crashes and dragging. If you experience stringing as a result you need to tune retraction settings or reduce travel.
Lost in Tech has a great video about z hop where he explains it way better than I could with text, you can checkt it out here: th-cam.com/video/4xyevbElGIU/w-d-xo.html It can have some benefits but most of the time you don't need it.
Vase mode does not necessarily mean poor quality parts. Use a larger nozzle and print wider walls for vase mode. I only occasionally sell stuff locally, but I've never had complaints with various vases printing .8mm to 1mm line widths.
I've printed shockingly strong trash bins (285x285x320) with a 0.6mm volcano nozzle in vase mode and limited flow to 16mm3/s. You can kick it around no problem 😅 On the flip side, I printed a sock hamper in vase mode with a 0.4mm nozzle and even though it feels "strong" for how thin it is, it's definitely flimsy 🥲 I haven't tried going thicker than normal on 0.4mm in a long time, when I do it's to make parts stronger with solid infill. Near mold like, I'm talking about breaking parts over and over and never breaking on the layer lines. Secret sauce, over extrude for the infill, not just make it wider and only part cooling for the overhangs and find the nozzle full saturation flow. Wide nozzle tip helps on multiple levels
You are right I maybe worded that a little to extreme, with bigger nozzels the models do become a lot stronger. Also if you sell locally the buyer can inspect the print and decide on the spot if its sturdy enough for them. So vasemode prints are great for that setting. But in my experience selling vase mode prints online with 0,8 mm linewidth still results in more returns than normal prints. I haven't tried going bigger than that. Maybe its worth a try. Good Input 👍
@@Factorian_Designs It's interesting you've had more returns with vase mode. I would expect the lack of a z seam results in a better looking print and satisfied customer.
WOW! Fantastic video, incredibly practical and useful. Can’t wait to see more of what you put up. THANK YOU for all the time and filament you’ve saved me!
With 0 infill do the vase walls squeeze together every time you pick it up? From a quality perspective I would imagine customers might think it's low quality if so, similar to how you mentioned vase mode printing.
1,2 mm thick walls with this kind of outer shape which is also connected at the top gives a pretty sturdy structure. I haven't had any significant bending so far.
Rather than use modifiers, Prusa slicer has Lightning and Support cubic infills which basically print at 0-5% when you dont need them and then ramp up to whatever you set (20% for me) when they need to support features like the top layer. also, for mass production, I would just design the pieces with hollow walls and solid top/bottoms and then just print at 100% infill so you never have to worry about the settings.
Your suggestion for making these changes at the design level is extremely dependent on the design; even for this basic example that was shown in the video, making those changes in the slicer is going to be significantly faster and easier in the slicer. Additionally, now you're designing for a very specific production environment which is going to reduce the utility of the design, and then like before the overhead of making edits or changes at the design level is going to be higher than making those tweaks at the slicer level.
I suppose the design type matters quite a bit, because I followed these and initially had a reduction of about 10% on the time, (no where near 50%), and then once I added the layer modifier and it actually increased the time by 20%. Maybe I missed something - but I don't think I did.
Do you know why the nozzle kicks off sometimes the object? I was printing a miniature and nozzle kicks off and lost everything. My print is a bambu A1.
Most of the time this is due to warping/insufficient bed adhesion, but its hard to say without seeing the failed print. There are lots of websites which explain this problem in more detail than I ever could, hopefully this keyword and a little google search helps you solve the problem.
I didn't realize you could use the modifiers like this. I have added privatives in bambu studio before for augmentation and misc reasons. But never tried the modifiers. Going to have to make more use of this. Thank you, extremely helpful!
Thank you! I am trying to learn 3D printing and it can be overwhelming. This and your second video are extremely helpful. I'm definitely going over to join your patreon.
Do you go in depth in one of your videos on patreon subs on when to apply these tips/hack and when you shouldnt? Im interested in to know when those adjustments should be removed/changed and not use it as a global profile because each models types (so vase vs non-vase and support vs non-supported prints) might benefits from these adjustments and some dont. Example: this print doesnt need a brim. why? etc. Beyond my little interest since im still new to printing - its a great video ti know customization to reduce time wont reduce quality.
My latest TH-cam video goes into a little more detail than this one. Generalizations like you are asking for are very hard to give because 3D printable models have so much variety in them. I hope these videos at least help you understand what benefits and drawbacks each setting gives and when to use it. All of my videos are public on TH-cam. Thangs / Patreon is only for people who want to download or sell my designs. :)
@@Factorian_Designs will take a look. im a photographer so I approach this looking for guidelines. As you mentioned printable models have so much variety it's the same as photography - im looking for guidelines and as you mentioned the "benefits/drawbacks" is what I am looking for. thanks!
Great video! I switched my A1 to the 0.6 nozzle but haven't experimented with many other settings to speed things up like this, since it should technically have the capability to but it doesnt seem like its helped all that much. Curious about your advice on that. Could be a video idea as well :). Subscribed!
This works with any nozzle size and printer. But you probably have to increase your layerheight with bigger nozzles and higher linewidths. At some point maximum flowrate will become a problem but that is a whole other topic itself.
In SuperSlicer you can adjust top layer width separately. Also you can use height range modifiers for get similar result. Not sure if Bambu has it, but it is as SuperSlicer is based on PrusaSlicer, which have height range modifiers as far as I remember. But adding objects with modification is also a useful way to tweak your model. I prefer leave outer border with normal width, only inner border set to 150%. SuperSlicer also have option to set external perimeter different from inner perimeter. I do not recommend SuperSlicer though. It is under serious develpment now and have multiple bugs which are fixed one by one, but it all needs time. I tried Orca Slicer which is kinda Bambu Slicer clone, but I personaly prefer SuperSlicer. I am helping to catch bugs, and hoping it will be fixed soon. Older version is more stable and I use it, when newer version fails.
2.4.58.5 is quite alright and fast with slicing. Recently they updated 2.5.59.11 (but it have some issues under W11 and sometimes crash on slicing) I use it too, most of the time it works for me, but I use Linux, so if you are W11 user 2.5.59.11 may be not very stable for you. 2.4.58.5 is the latest of previous branch, and as far as I know it have no issues. But I may be wrong, as I did not run it under Windows. But main maintainer check his builds mainly only under Windows. There is a nice feature like dynamic layer height. I guess Bambu should also have it. It may speed up print by using higher height on parts which does not need much detail.
@@enosunim thanks for the detailed answer, ATM I run 2.5.59.9 on my win 11 machine and haven't had any issues yet but I don't wanna jinx it by updating to 2.5.59.11 Hopefully 2.7 isn't far away, I miss tree supports from orcaslicer 🤣
@@Krautech I guess if 9 version is OK for you, you should stick with it, as 10 and 11 versions are just bugfix releases for those who have trouble mainly on Mac and Linux.
You are right, Super Slicer has some excellent settings, which will hopefully get implemented into future versions of Bambu Studio. But like you said, I had lots of bugs with Super Slicer, which at some point drove me crazy. Orca Slicer / Bambu Studio currently has the best overall performance for me.
nice video, thx. Additionaly I use variable layer hight, this is great because detailed features get better results and less detailed stuff is printed faster due to increased layer height. What I didn't understand is the modifier thingies. Why you choose the geometry modifiers instead of much simpler height modifiers? just add height modifier for the first 5 mm or whatever your bottom height is and then select the infill percentage, same with the top. A note to z-hop: This is mentioned often in "make prints faster/better/... videos" For at least my printer I have to disagree, prints look terrible if I switch it of completely. So better say "try switch it of if your printer is ok with that".
Thank you for your input with the layer height, good addition. If you use height modifier for the lower part, you get a little more infill where its not needed the modifier is a better fit. I see no difference with z-hop on/off but this doesn't change much for the printing time anyways. :)
I would use them a bit different for action figures. You will probably be better off using a low wall count + lightning Infill in the general settings and then add extra walls with modifiers where your model is fragile. This should save filament and reduce printing time. I hope that helps!
Nice results! But I didn't really get the first part with the cylinders. What is going on there? You print walls as 2 single outer walls not connecting each other, one pointing outside and one inside the vase? But what about cylinders, looks like they are way too high than the infill is going... I'm using Cura btw. Would really want to know what exactly you are doing there.
I am just using modifiers, to modify the volume where the cylinders and the planter are overlapping (more infill etc). It doesn't matter if your modifiers are a little too big. The slicer will just ignore those parts. Hope that helps!
@@Factorian_Designs Ok, so it only modifies on the overlapping section...I see... thanks! But what about the general print/slice of the vase on the video are there 2 single layer walls or 2 double layer walls, and are just with some free space in between? Also if you don't mind(I hope) to tell me if I make line width 0.8( on 0.4 nozzle) for example - slicer automatically calculates number of walls for a specific thickness and shows you it changed volume, but it doesn't show any change in the material flow. Shouldn't it be more extrusion for the double width or it just automatically slower the speed or else happens?
Hi, thanks for the video. I got a bit lost after 4:35. Why the upper cylinder disappears after a few seconds? What changes have you made ? How can you avoid printing the upper cylinder ? Could you please explain more? Thanks !
Hey, the cylinders I added are just modifiers. They only change the settings for the main geometry where they overlap. The modified settings for the cylinder are only the infill %, type and top layer pattern. The shape of the modifier structures themself will never be printed. I hope that helps!
@@Factorian_Designs Thanks for giving me the keywords! I managed to find more youtube about modifier and I now understand what it does. That's briliiant!
2:38 You could also just increase top and bottom layer count by a few until the bottom is solid, but the rest is hollow. This would almost certainly correct any bridging issues on the top layer by the time it reaches the last few layers as well. (Though, I'm not sure if the concentric pattern would cause any issues in this particular model without testing it...)
@@Factorian_Designs Certainly more filament, but it may be better for certain use-cases. For example, I prefer many of my prints to be bottom heavy. Though, I will admit my suggestion would not be ideal if you were printing many of them. I would probably only do this if it was a one-off print, or a small number of them. In this case, the few grams extra would be quite negligible to myself. I will slice a test model using both methods and update here for a comparison. To each their own!
Why does the top modifier not add infill in center of object but bottom modifier does? Is there something i missed? Or is it because the bottom floating surface is in modifier but wouldn't that be support and not infill at that point?
Imported STLs/STEP files will always drop to the plate (others wise they would not be printable) Only modifiers are allowed to "float". What slicer are you using?
@@Factorian_Designs Using Bambu Studio. Used to used Cura slicer for my Ender 3 but got myself a Bambu Labs A1 with AMS lite so assumed the built in Add objects would be the same. All primitives drop to the build plate.
Right now you are probably just right clicking your screen and then select "Add Primitive". This won't work. "Primitives" are treated like a printable object and can't be printed into the air. Thats why they drop to the build plate. What we want are "modifiers" connected to the geometry. Watch the part of the video again where I add the modifiers. I am certain this will solve your problem. :)
That depends on the articulated model you are printing. I would recommend playing around with a few models to get the hang of it. I am sure articulated models can be improved to some degree as well. However, modifying your prints as shown tends to work better with symmetrical models.
Other things i do, if design and flows allow me to, is higher speeds (250-300) for inner walls and infill. One of the best mods i did for big parts on x1c is the e3d obxidian 0.6mm nozzle. I can get like 30mm cubed flow with any filament (don’t even tune it, just turn it up and send it). This with 0.4mm layer heights and printing big stuff now in like 1-2hours. Big stuff for me is workshop organisers etc. stuff I don’t care of visuals, just speed. I love the ability with this setup to just be able to do quick test prints in less than 30 minutes sometimes for like 5-10mm z height test fit objects
With a short distance between walls, I’m wondering if most printers could easily bridge that gap, but bridging changes extruder temperature which can lead to a line in the layer when using settings optimal for overhangs.
True, but a tiny bridging gap like that should not be a problem for most printers. I am not so sure about the printing temperature change for bridges; I don't think it works like that in Bambu Studio. Usually, the printer only slows down.
the only thing you did to save time was reduce the structural integrity of the part. That was always an option that is tuneable by adjusting the infill density, You've just manually selected where infill is most important. The other settings you suggested wont speed up your prints and are highly subjective to each printer. Disabling them for every print is not a solution to increasing speeds or surface finish of parts. If you tune your retraction settings properly, you wont have issues with Z-hop. The only reason that people typically do is because they've neglected to adjust these settings.
@@IronHive I don't disagree, but it's not applicable for every print. The title of this video implies that you can just simply adjust these settings to cut your print time in half, when they could have just made this a tutorial about variable infill. They chose a clickbait title and only really demonstrated that they could reduce the print time of an oddly specific part
I get your point, but a lot more than just structural integrity and infill was addressed. For example, adjustments were made to line width, wall count was reduced, and travel paths were changed. Additionally, you do want to reduce material in places where it's not needed. This is a basic concept in all manufacturing, and using modifiers is a great way to do it with intent. You are partially right, though; you can't use the same settings for every print. Hopefully, this video will help people learn and do their own optimization to reduce printing time on other designs as well.
The only problem I see with this is that you didn't reduce print speeds when increasing line width. Unless you've tested that your hotend can keep up and the maximum volumetric flow rate is not exceeded, this could lead to problems.
In Bambu slicer you can set your max volumetric flow rate so if you print widder lines, it will compensate speed, doesn't matter if you set it at 300 or 500mm/s if it has to be 100mm/s (for example)
How about just designing it better?? Why does it have double walls? Just make the walls 5 layers thick in the model. The same goes for the bottom - what use is the double bottom? It won't be strong with 3 bottom layers anyway. Make it 1.2mm thick and you don't need a modifier. Whenever I see a model, say a box for electronics, with double walls, I just cringe. Why design models for 3D printing when you actually design them for cutting out of wood or something?? And if you can't change the model, even better way is to reduce the internal dimensions using the slicer using either the X-Y hole compensation or X-Y contour compensation, you can achieve a similiar effect (but slicer sometimes breaks the model in places if you overdo it). Kudos for not wasting our time, though, and still useful tips (most people don't even know how to use modifiers).
I use these all the time for my small print farm. In my opinion, print optimization is important. Spending a few hours optimizing a print can save you a significant amount of time and money in the long run. Check out my new video with a total of 4000 produced eggcups , and you'll probably see what I mean.
It's a shame you don't explain the reasons behind unticking some options and how did you get to your line width calculations
You are right, I could have explained some things in more detail. Thank you for the feedback.
As for the linewidth, a general rule of thumb is not to go wider than around 1.5 times your nozzle width. With a 0.4 mm nozzle, that is 0.6 mm.
For this print, with 3 walls and standard settings, you get 0.42 mm + 2 x 0.45 mm = 1.32 mm.
If you use 2 walls with 0.6 mm, you get a 1.2 mm thick wall, which is nearly the same as before with 1/3 less distance traveled. Two thick lines also tend to be stronger than three thin ones, even if you have the same total wall thickness.
Everything above 0.6 mm with a 0.4 mm nozzle can lead to problems while printing. If you still want wider lines, you are probably better off using a bigger nozzle.
I hope that helps. Anything else in particular you have questions about?
@@Factorian_Designs this is really helpful additional information, thank you! And excellent video
Two settings that I also didn't give enough explanation to are:
"Ensure vertical shell thickness" and "avoid crossing walls."
These can have a significant impact on your printing time as well as quality. If enough people are interested, I will make a future video about when and how to use them correctly. I will probably showcase them on my most optimized model, which I have literally printed thousands of times.
Edit:
New video it out, which explains "avoid crossing walls" in detail, anyone interested can checkt it out here:
th-cam.com/video/CxbidoZCw1A/w-d-xo.html
Another video on the subject of print optimization which explains "Ensure vertical shell thickness" will follow soon.
I hope this will be some additional help!
@@Factorian_Designs as someone completely new to 3D printing it's helpful having the information split across multiple videos anyway. Only so much information I can absorb at once, going over a couple settings and explaining what they do, when to use them, pros / cons, would be perfect! My main takeaway from this video was that we can create geometries to selectively change infill, along with other settings.
Even just seeing you scale and move the geometries is helpful. I've scaled prints down a bit to fit my A1 mini, but I don't know what I'm doing, it's useful seeing someone else interact with the slicer.
@@Factorian_Designs that will be awesome
I am new to 3d printing and this is a game changer for me, thanks! You've just earned a new sub.
Any miniature video on time and settings for best results for .2mm nozzle would be great for the future. Also great ideas for vases. BTW would that still be waterproof?
I don't have much experience with minatures so I will probably have to pass on that. But yes the vase should still be waterproof. If not slightly increase your extrusion factor and printing temperature.
This is quite possibly the most useful video that TH-cam’s recommended to me in a hot minute. Thank you!
Came here to say this ^ - True story
@@adamweldon also came to confirm, algo loves me today
And if you completely remove the part from the table, then it will print in just a second
Why do you think z hop has no benefit? It was implemented for a reason, it greatly reduces the risk of crashes and dragging. If you experience stringing as a result you need to tune retraction settings or reduce travel.
If something curled up it will either way get hit, with or without z hopping. I have turned it on for the noise reduction.
Lost in Tech has a great video about z hop where he explains it way better than I could with text, you can checkt it out here:
th-cam.com/video/4xyevbElGIU/w-d-xo.html
It can have some benefits but most of the time you don't need it.
This information is gold. Thank you for sharing!
You are welcome, I am glad it helped you!
Thank you! Would you mind if I make a similar tiktok tutorial but in Spanish? Got my printing time from 3 hours to 2.5 :)
Sure man, go for it!
Short and to the point. Really good video. Keep it up 💪
Vase mode does not necessarily mean poor quality parts. Use a larger nozzle and print wider walls for vase mode. I only occasionally sell stuff locally, but I've never had complaints with various vases printing .8mm to 1mm line widths.
I've printed shockingly strong trash bins (285x285x320) with a 0.6mm volcano nozzle in vase mode and limited flow to 16mm3/s. You can kick it around no problem 😅
On the flip side, I printed a sock hamper in vase mode with a 0.4mm nozzle and even though it feels "strong" for how thin it is, it's definitely flimsy 🥲
I haven't tried going thicker than normal on 0.4mm in a long time, when I do it's to make parts stronger with solid infill. Near mold like, I'm talking about breaking parts over and over and never breaking on the layer lines. Secret sauce, over extrude for the infill, not just make it wider and only part cooling for the overhangs and find the nozzle full saturation flow. Wide nozzle tip helps on multiple levels
You are right I maybe worded that a little to extreme, with bigger nozzels the models do become a lot stronger. Also if you sell locally the buyer can inspect the print and decide on the spot if its sturdy enough for them. So vasemode prints are great for that setting.
But in my experience selling vase mode prints online with 0,8 mm linewidth still results in more returns than normal prints. I haven't tried going bigger than that. Maybe its worth a try.
Good Input 👍
@@Factorian_Designs It's interesting you've had more returns with vase mode. I would expect the lack of a z seam results in a better looking print and satisfied customer.
@@bjaurelio Thats what I initially thought as well 😅
Some really useful tips, especially using modifiers - not just clickbait after all 😊
The settings will help but the infill part is very misleading and should have been stated as being a case by case basis.
excellent video! Thank you for helping us save time and filament.
Excellent video. I'm going to try it on my next print using Orca slicer. Just subscribed to your channel. Keep up the great work.
WOW! Fantastic video, incredibly practical and useful. Can’t wait to see more of what you put up. THANK YOU for all the time and filament you’ve saved me!
With 0 infill do the vase walls squeeze together every time you pick it up? From a quality perspective I would imagine customers might think it's low quality if so, similar to how you mentioned vase mode printing.
1,2 mm thick walls with this kind of outer shape which is also connected at the top gives a pretty sturdy structure. I haven't had any significant bending so far.
NICE
Glad to see you turned off Z-hop. My goodness... The people that defend that when they don't even understand that it is for specific applications. 🤦
Rather than use modifiers, Prusa slicer has Lightning and Support cubic infills which basically print at 0-5% when you dont need them and then ramp up to whatever you set (20% for me) when they need to support features like the top layer.
also, for mass production, I would just design the pieces with hollow walls and solid top/bottoms and then just print at 100% infill so you never have to worry about the settings.
Your suggestion for making these changes at the design level is extremely dependent on the design; even for this basic example that was shown in the video, making those changes in the slicer is going to be significantly faster and easier in the slicer. Additionally, now you're designing for a very specific production environment which is going to reduce the utility of the design, and then like before the overhead of making edits or changes at the design level is going to be higher than making those tweaks at the slicer level.
I suppose the design type matters quite a bit, because I followed these and initially had a reduction of about 10% on the time, (no where near 50%), and then once I added the layer modifier and it actually increased the time by 20%. Maybe I missed something - but I don't think I did.
Design can matter quite a bit but I don't see how this should increase print time. Most of the time I can reduce the print time by around 30%.
Wish my printer was on the list in bamboo slicer
you're like a wizard of print profiles!!!
Awesome information. Can't wait to try with my new A1. 😁
You earned a subscriber. Well done!
this + 0.6mm nozzle for even faster prints
Do you know why the nozzle kicks off sometimes the object? I was printing a miniature and nozzle kicks off and lost everything. My print is a bambu A1.
Most of the time this is due to warping/insufficient bed adhesion, but its hard to say without seeing the failed print.
There are lots of websites which explain this problem in more detail than I ever could, hopefully this keyword and a little google search helps you solve the problem.
I didn't realize you could use the modifiers like this. I have added privatives in bambu studio before for augmentation and misc reasons. But never tried the modifiers. Going to have to make more use of this. Thank you, extremely helpful!
Thank you for the kind words!
You've packed a lot of great information into 7 minutes. Thank you!
Nice content! My 3d models always get a upper cap fill, only print without a cap in top when i use vase mode. Can you help me?
trying some configurations, i solved it. Just put 0 in top infill
Thank you! I am trying to learn 3D printing and it can be overwhelming. This and your second video are extremely helpful. I'm definitely going over to join your patreon.
Glad it helped you out and thank for joining my Patreon, it is very much appreciated!
I dont usually stop to comment on these sorts of videos but yeah this was good!
the video is amazing , if would be possible to post like a more detailed video would be very amazing , once again great job earned a sub
A new video is out, with more explanations on some of the settings. The one after that will cover the missing ones!
Im glad I came across your video. Great and useful content. Thanks
Do you go in depth in one of your videos on patreon subs on when to apply these tips/hack and when you shouldnt? Im interested in to know when those adjustments should be removed/changed and not use it as a global profile because each models types (so vase vs non-vase and support vs non-supported prints) might benefits from these adjustments and some dont.
Example: this print doesnt need a brim. why? etc.
Beyond my little interest since im still new to printing - its a great video ti know customization to reduce time wont reduce quality.
My latest TH-cam video goes into a little more detail than this one. Generalizations like you are asking for are very hard to give because 3D printable models have so much variety in them. I hope these videos at least help you understand what benefits and drawbacks each setting gives and when to use it.
All of my videos are public on TH-cam. Thangs / Patreon is only for people who want to download or sell my designs. :)
@@Factorian_Designs will take a look.
im a photographer so I approach this looking for guidelines. As you mentioned printable models have so much variety it's the same as photography - im looking for guidelines and as you mentioned the "benefits/drawbacks" is what I am looking for. thanks!
Very helpful video thank you for sharing
Very useful and succinct information, perfect!
And if you completely remove the part from the table, then it will print in just a second
and while we are at it lets just throw out the whole printer to safe even more time.
@@Factorian_Designs By the title of the video, the picture in the preview and the methods described in the video, this is exactly what you mean.
Lightning infill is my simple cure.
There are no Height Range Modifiers in Cura, so you use cylinders?
Yes thats what I did when I used cura. Cura does offer a postprocessor "ChangeAtZ" but the setting you can change there are pretty limited.
Great video! I switched my A1 to the 0.6 nozzle but haven't experimented with many other settings to speed things up like this, since it should technically have the capability to but it doesnt seem like its helped all that much. Curious about your advice on that. Could be a video idea as well :). Subscribed!
This works with any nozzle size and printer. But you probably have to increase your layerheight with bigger nozzles and higher linewidths. At some point maximum flowrate will become a problem but that is a whole other topic itself.
You can save a lot of that work, by just using lightning infill. It essentially just creates the bare minimum internal infill required.
1:45 it's fine turning it off, but "wears the z-rods down"? I think you'd have to print for a couple of centuries for that to happen
Would love a follow up video to explain the settings unticked. Explaining the line thickness stuff would benefit beginners also.
I'm going to experiment with these settings, might add a small amount of infill since most of my prints are functional and need to stay more rigid.
Great content, dude! Thank you.
Thank you!
In SuperSlicer you can adjust top layer width separately. Also you can use height range modifiers for get similar result. Not sure if Bambu has it, but it is as SuperSlicer is based on PrusaSlicer, which have height range modifiers as far as I remember.
But adding objects with modification is also a useful way to tweak your model. I prefer leave outer border with normal width, only inner border set to 150%. SuperSlicer also have option to set external perimeter different from inner perimeter.
I do not recommend SuperSlicer though. It is under serious develpment now and have multiple bugs which are fixed one by one, but it all needs time. I tried Orca Slicer which is kinda Bambu Slicer clone, but I personaly prefer SuperSlicer. I am helping to catch bugs, and hoping it will be fixed soon. Older version is more stable and I use it, when newer version fails.
Yeah I'm similar
What version are you using for stability?
2.4.58.5 is quite alright and fast with slicing. Recently they updated 2.5.59.11 (but it have some issues under W11 and sometimes crash on slicing) I use it too, most of the time it works for me, but I use Linux, so if you are W11 user 2.5.59.11 may be not very stable for you. 2.4.58.5 is the latest of previous branch, and as far as I know it have no issues. But I may be wrong, as I did not run it under Windows. But main maintainer check his builds mainly only under Windows.
There is a nice feature like dynamic layer height. I guess Bambu should also have it. It may speed up print by using higher height on parts which does not need much detail.
@@enosunim thanks for the detailed answer, ATM I run 2.5.59.9 on my win 11 machine and haven't had any issues yet but I don't wanna jinx it by updating to 2.5.59.11
Hopefully 2.7 isn't far away, I miss tree supports from orcaslicer 🤣
@@Krautech I guess if 9 version is OK for you, you should stick with it, as 10 and 11 versions are just bugfix releases for those who have trouble mainly on Mac and Linux.
You are right, Super Slicer has some excellent settings, which will hopefully get implemented into future versions of Bambu Studio. But like you said, I had lots of bugs with Super Slicer, which at some point drove me crazy.
Orca Slicer / Bambu Studio currently has the best overall performance for me.
Hey
Kannst Du sollche Videos auch in Deutsch machen?
Wäre interessant 😊
Grüße
Roy
Great Video! Also didn't know about modifiers before - can't believe that! Well done!
could just use lightning infill, leave your outer wall thickness at default too
Subbed. Hoping you make more of these really informative videos. I appreciate it
nice video, thx. Additionaly I use variable layer hight, this is great because detailed features get better results and less detailed stuff is printed faster due to increased layer height.
What I didn't understand is the modifier thingies. Why you choose the geometry modifiers instead of much simpler height modifiers? just add height modifier for the first 5 mm or whatever your bottom height is and then select the infill percentage, same with the top.
A note to z-hop: This is mentioned often in "make prints faster/better/... videos" For at least my printer I have to disagree, prints look terrible if I switch it of completely. So better say "try switch it of if your printer is ok with that".
Thank you for your input with the layer height, good addition.
If you use height modifier for the lower part, you get a little more infill where its not needed the modifier is a better fit.
I see no difference with z-hop on/off but this doesn't change much for the printing time anyways. :)
Are these settings good for any print (even models/action figures) or just for prints of vases or simpler things?
Thx
I would use them a bit different for action figures. You will probably be better off using a low wall count + lightning Infill in the general settings and then add extra walls with modifiers where your model is fragile. This should save filament and reduce printing time.
I hope that helps!
instead if I remove the z hop when retracted, does it bring any improvements or practically nothing?
I am honestly not sure. If you try it out I would love to hear if it made any difference.
Print it in vase mode and pour plaster inside
Didn’t change my print time at all
Nice results! But I didn't really get the first part with the cylinders. What is going on there? You print walls as 2 single outer walls not connecting each other, one pointing outside and one inside the vase? But what about cylinders, looks like they are way too high than the infill is going... I'm using Cura btw.
Would really want to know what exactly you are doing there.
I am just using modifiers, to modify the volume where the cylinders and the planter are overlapping (more infill etc). It doesn't matter if your modifiers are a little too big. The slicer will just ignore those parts. Hope that helps!
@@Factorian_Designs Ok, so it only modifies on the overlapping section...I see... thanks!
But what about the general print/slice of the vase on the video are there 2 single layer walls or 2 double layer walls, and are just with some free space in between?
Also if you don't mind(I hope) to tell me if I make line width 0.8( on 0.4 nozzle) for example - slicer automatically calculates number of walls for a specific thickness and shows you it changed volume, but it doesn't show any change in the material flow. Shouldn't it be more extrusion for the double width or it just automatically slower the speed or else happens?
Hi, thanks for the video. I got a bit lost after 4:35. Why the upper cylinder disappears after a few seconds? What changes have you made ? How can you avoid printing the upper cylinder ? Could you please explain more? Thanks !
Hey, the cylinders I added are just modifiers. They only change the settings for the main geometry where they overlap. The modified settings for the cylinder are only the infill %, type and top layer pattern.
The shape of the modifier structures themself will never be printed.
I hope that helps!
@@Factorian_Designs Thanks for giving me the keywords! I managed to find more youtube about modifier and I now understand what it does. That's briliiant!
Nice job, but the strenght of the vase, will not be the same as before, it will be more fragile, i suppose
The missing infill barely makes a difference. Strength comes form walls, not infill and its plenty strong this way. You should try it out yourself!
6:14 what value for .6mm nozzle? I set it to .8mm, being carefull not to go 1.5x larger than nozzle which would be .9mm
I think thats perfect, did you try it out already?
@@Factorian_Designs printing as we speak
fantastic hints. TY for making this video
2:38
You could also just increase top and bottom layer count by a few until the bottom is solid, but the rest is hollow.
This would almost certainly correct any bridging issues on the top layer by the time it reaches the last few layers as well.
(Though, I'm not sure if the concentric pattern would cause any issues in this particular model without testing it...)
You could do that, but that would need a lot more filament :)
@@Factorian_Designs
Certainly more filament, but it may be better for certain use-cases.
For example, I prefer many of my prints to be bottom heavy.
Though, I will admit my suggestion would not be ideal if you were printing many of them.
I would probably only do this if it was a one-off print, or a small number of them.
In this case, the few grams extra would be quite negligible to myself.
I will slice a test model using both methods and update here for a comparison.
To each their own!
why would you print without infill? wouldnt that make the print more fragile? or is this more specific to the model?
For prototyping or like myself for decoration pieces thst will simply sit on a shelf
@@ricardordz7538 prototyping and decoration would make sense. itd be way faster to get the print done to test
WOW WOW WOW thank you
great video, would this recommendations work for any shape or just only for the one in your video?tks
This works with almost any shape, but you will likely save the most time with vases, boxes, and similar objects.
@@Factorian_Designs ok tks, what about airplanes?
you know the video is good when the intro is a powerpoint
Why does the top modifier not add infill in center of object but bottom modifier does? Is there something i missed? Or is it because the bottom floating surface is in modifier but wouldn't that be support and not infill at that point?
Cause there's open space? The modifiers only add things to the model where its touching...
Exactly.
Support is everything that gets removed after printing. Infill stays inside your model and is there to support your top layers.
I'm stupid. Everything I work on will drop to the plate. I haven't found the setting to allow objects to sit off the plate.
Imported STLs/STEP files will always drop to the plate (others wise they would not be printable) Only modifiers are allowed to "float".
What slicer are you using?
@@Factorian_Designs Using Bambu Studio. Used to used Cura slicer for my Ender 3 but got myself a Bambu Labs A1 with AMS lite so assumed the built in Add objects would be the same. All primitives drop to the build plate.
Right now you are probably just right clicking your screen and then select "Add Primitive". This won't work. "Primitives" are treated like a printable object and can't be printed into the air. Thats why they drop to the build plate.
What we want are "modifiers" connected to the geometry. Watch the part of the video again where I add the modifiers. I am certain this will solve your problem. :)
Would this work with articulated models well or are these suited for larger objects like the vase used
That depends on the articulated model you are printing. I would recommend playing around with a few models to get the hang of it.
I am sure articulated models can be improved to some degree as well. However, modifying your prints as shown tends to work better with symmetrical models.
Gamechanger for light boxes! Good work 👍
Love it! 👍
Sehr spannend. Hast Du auch einen deutschen Kanal?
Danke, nein leider nicht.
Other things i do, if design and flows allow me to, is higher speeds (250-300) for inner walls and infill.
One of the best mods i did for big parts on x1c is the e3d obxidian 0.6mm nozzle. I can get like 30mm cubed flow with any filament (don’t even tune it, just turn it up and send it). This with 0.4mm layer heights and printing big stuff now in like 1-2hours. Big stuff for me is workshop organisers etc. stuff I don’t care of visuals, just speed.
I love the ability with this setup to just be able to do quick test prints in less than 30 minutes sometimes for like 5-10mm z height test fit objects
why not use lighting?
Lighting normally doesn't result in a strong bottom layer.
The upper infill prints in the air
With a short distance between walls, I’m wondering if most printers could easily bridge that gap, but bridging changes extruder temperature which can lead to a line in the layer when using settings optimal for overhangs.
True, but a tiny bridging gap like that should not be a problem for most printers. I am not so sure about the printing temperature change for bridges; I don't think it works like that in Bambu Studio. Usually, the printer only slows down.
the only thing you did to save time was reduce the structural integrity of the part. That was always an option that is tuneable by adjusting the infill density, You've just manually selected where infill is most important. The other settings you suggested wont speed up your prints and are highly subjective to each printer. Disabling them for every print is not a solution to increasing speeds or surface finish of parts. If you tune your retraction settings properly, you wont have issues with Z-hop. The only reason that people typically do is because they've neglected to adjust these settings.
Manually selecting where infill is most important seems like a very useful tip. Cool getting to see how to do it.
@@IronHive I don't disagree, but it's not applicable for every print. The title of this video implies that you can just simply adjust these settings to cut your print time in half, when they could have just made this a tutorial about variable infill. They chose a clickbait title and only really demonstrated that they could reduce the print time of an oddly specific part
@@Shraedar to be clear.. from this title, you expected this video to cut all 3D print times in every circumstance in half?
I get your point, but a lot more than just structural integrity and infill was addressed. For example, adjustments were made to line width, wall count was reduced, and travel paths were changed.
Additionally, you do want to reduce material in places where it's not needed. This is a basic concept in all manufacturing, and using modifiers is a great way to do it with intent. You are partially right, though; you can't use the same settings for every print.
Hopefully, this video will help people learn and do their own optimization to reduce printing time on other designs as well.
The only problem I see with this is that you didn't reduce print speeds when increasing line width. Unless you've tested that your hotend can keep up and the maximum volumetric flow rate is not exceeded, this could lead to problems.
In Bambu slicer you can set your max volumetric flow rate so if you print widder lines, it will compensate speed, doesn't matter if you set it at 300 or 500mm/s if it has to be 100mm/s (for example)
@@maghg2764 oh yeah I forgot about that. That essentially nullifies my initial comment then.
How about just designing it better?? Why does it have double walls? Just make the walls 5 layers thick in the model. The same goes for the bottom - what use is the double bottom? It won't be strong with 3 bottom layers anyway. Make it 1.2mm thick and you don't need a modifier. Whenever I see a model, say a box for electronics, with double walls, I just cringe. Why design models for 3D printing when you actually design them for cutting out of wood or something??
And if you can't change the model, even better way is to reduce the internal dimensions using the slicer using either the X-Y hole compensation or X-Y contour compensation, you can achieve a similiar effect (but slicer sometimes breaks the model in places if you overdo it).
Kudos for not wasting our time, though, and still useful tips (most people don't even know how to use modifiers).
With the zhop disabled, many times the prints, especially the multiple ones, will end up ripped from the plate.
Congrats about this tips Dude
Only hobbyists have time to spend so much time in Slicer. Everybody who runs printing farm, has no time for this. It is kind of sad.
I use these all the time for my small print farm. In my opinion, print optimization is important. Spending a few hours optimizing a print can save you a significant amount of time and money in the long run. Check out my new video with a total of 4000 produced eggcups , and you'll probably see what I mean.