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You are completely right, how did you notice?

Nein den gibt es hier und bei all meinen anderen Videos ganz sicher nicht zu hören ...

​@@Factorian_Designs hehehehaw

I am not sure what you mean to be honest. I know full control gcode but how does this video help with that ? 😅

@Factorian_Designs sorry I meant replicating your model with full control gcode, in an attempt to lower print times even further. I have very few prints that I could move to full control because of the geometry, but the few that I did became a lot quicker

@@BelviGER Oh that makes sense. I have never tried it out. Thank you for the suggestion!

Thank you! But I think they do a decent job with most designs especially compared to a few years ago. Changing some individual settings based on the design will probably be the best choice no matter what slicer you choose and how much they improve them in the future.

Its the same result using two different ways, both are fine :)

@@Factorian_Designs I just don't find it easy to transfer modifiers from one model to the next, or say a remodel. Is there a way to do that?

@@Factorian_DesignsThat makes no sense. If you want to apply something by layer, use the correct way to do so. Modifiers do not work for me, since whenever I use them for anything but layers, the outer boundary of the modification generates weaknesses in the print. For instance, using a modifier to increase infill, will produce a line of no-crossing around the boundary of the modifier object. Also, if you use line height, it somewhat easy to transfer the modifications to another model, by replacing the stl. But if you use modifiers instead of line height, that makes no sense to me.

@@FrodeBergetonNilsen If you want to print multiple of the same model, modifiers are copied together with the model. Otherwise I don't see why you would want to do that, as every model has to be optimized differently.

@@FrodeBergetonNilsen I honestly never had the issue you just described

You are welcome !!!

I said this in antoher comment as well, but I don't like ironing on small surfaces, never really looks good to me. But yes this can be a great solution in some cases.

I guess most of them should apply to TPU as well, but I have almost never used it.

I think I found the solution. When using heavily sloped objects like closed-top round objects, diabling “ensure vertical shell thickness” causes to only produce a very thin layer on the top that has holes. I activated the “moderate” setting in the top modifier and the problem seems to be fixed now!!

I think you have send me a dm as well, I just answered it :)

Not strange at all, the digital ones are all me. If you click on my website, I even have links to most of them on display. Thangs just is the best overall choice. If you are talking about actual printed products, these are my reselling Thangs members. I designed most of these last year :)

😂

Von mir kannst du nur die Dateien zum selber drucken downloaden, allerdings habe ich einige kommerzielle Reseller die die gedruckten Modelle auch auf Seiten wie Etsy verkaufen. Auf Etsy sollten sie relativ leicht zu finden sein :)

If you do that, Bambu will add material in areas where we don't need it like shown with the "ensure vertical shell thickness". The only way to prevent that is by setting the top and bottom layers to 1.

@@Factorian_Designs ooooh... Okay got it, that's quite counter intuitive from the slicer, indeed. Thank you for the answer :)

I often times use a custom "fast start" gcode sequence. Very easy to integrate and due to the fast heatup time is very short. No resonance frequency test, no leveling, no lidar test, only one small purge line and homeing sequence just like with every other printer. A quick google search should give you the template for that.

@@Factorian_Designs With my old printer I only had like 10 lines of Start G-Code. The ones I put there myself! God bless Cura!

@@Tome4kkkk Yeah I understand what you mean. Its simple and sexy but some of the stuff bambu has integrated into their start sequence are pretty useful for more casual useres. Luckily you can still modify the whole sequence to your heart's content.

Only egg cups so far, so no direct food touching. Almost no returns for the egg cups, maybe 1 every 150 Orders.

If you leave the top and bottom layer count higher than 1 it will add material in the middel parts again. Just like explained with the vertical shell thickness.

@@Factorian_Designs I went back and realized that it is adding thickness because the Inner part of the cup is also considered “top layers” but now i am a little confused on how increasing both z offset and elephants foot compensation makes the first layer more reliable. There was no explanation on how that improved the reliability and repeatability of first layers. I am sorry to ask so many questions but i am new to 3d printing.

@@x_Layers in the video we are decreasing the distance to the build plate, this will add more squish and more adhesion (-0,04 -> -0,08). The elephants foot compensation is just to get rid of the sharp bottom edge.

I have never used solid work, can't help you there. Sorry

Take a look at my TH-cam Infos, I have several contact details there.

I thought I explained a lot of things in detail, anything specific that you are missing? There will be more videos coming out in the future :)

I believe it was an excellent balance, just play it through, pause, research what you don't know. All the key info is there and the help files explain the rest without ruining the speed of the presentation

This is all filament independent advice, so you can use whatever you like.

@@Factorian_Designs THAN you then. You know about PET filament, right? I'm afraid that because the poor use it, you rich people might not know about it.

Yes you can use the range modifier as well. Same results.

Yes, another person asked this as well: Here is a quick example on how to do this: (From a Bambu Wiki post) ;===== for Textured PEI Plate, High Temp Plate and High Temp Plate =============== ;curr_bed_type={curr_bed_type} {if curr_bed_type==“Textured PEI Plate”} G29.1 Z-0.04 ;squish of -0.04mm for Textured PEI Plate {elsif curr_bed_type==“High Temp Plate”} G29.1 Z0.03 ;raise of 0.03mm for High Temp or Wham Bam Plate {endif} i e depending on which plate you chose, the offset will go up or down. You can amend Z0.03 to more or less positive number = offset up (less squish) negative = offset down (more squish)

Thats also a valid solution, lots of different ways to solve the same issue :)