Two blades on one saw - The new TSV 60 KEB from Festool!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ต.ค. 2023
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The new TSV 60 KEB from Festool, includes a second scoring blade for perfect, precise cuts in the workshop or on the job site. This is the perfectionist of the Festool family of saws!
A brushless EC-TEC motor makes the saw virtually maintenance free and extremely powerful. Integrated kick back stop helps to reduce chance of kickback and damage to the material when sawing or plunge cutting.
For more information on this saw:
www.festoolusa.com/products/s...
Let me know if you have any questions! - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
that is a good looking cut. been waiting for the 120V to come out. now I got to spend another Grand, AAAaaaaaa.
Thanks for the tip on the splinter guard!
a real great explanation of the new productions from Festool. Thanks Ronnie
Thanks Patrick! It's an impressive machine!
Excellent review. Am in the market for a 60 and your explanation was very helpful. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful! Are you leaning towards the 1 or 2 blade 60?
Nice. I love Festool tools and I'm thinking of buying one
Go for it! Once you buy one, it's highly likely you will buy another, the system is very well thought out
you can get near perfect results on the ts 60 by setting the depth to 2mm ish and do a pass, then required depth for the final pass, i do see how the tsv 60 can save a lot of time in a production environment, but for site work the ts55 in my case works perfect
Great review and the info was very helpful,iam waiting to see if I should be purchase one now now or wait for the cordless version but not sure when that will come out.thanks abunch for the video and please keep them coming.
I won't say never but shouldn't ever be a cordless version of this saw or the TS 60 without the scoring blade. The motor requires an attached cord, similar to the reason the Conturo edge bander and planer have one a dedicated cord as well. Thanks for the feedback, glad it helped!
Normally Festool announce its news in november or december. But about cordless versions of the both saws is nothing to hear or read here in Germany in time. Best regards from Neubrandenburg/Mecklenburg-Vorpommern
@@michaelbehrndt8319 thanks abunch for information
Great review! One question, does the TSV 60 KEB compatible with the FSK rail also?
Scoring blade is Good if you only use it for sheet goods. Alot cheaper then a sliding table saw so worth it if you build alot of cabinets.
For sure! Sheet goods and laminates, maybe even veneers with patterns as well is where this saw shines! Much cheaper than a slider without a doubt!
I would always just flip the material over if I wanted a better cut, and use the bottom cut. I had a large Felder sliding table saw with a kerf cutter on it, which seemed to always be a problem, just ended up using better blades instead. But I never cut much melamine.
Yes for some who do not cut laminates, melamine and veneer, this saw may not be needed at all. There are other ways to get a super clean cut, this one does it in one pass.
Why would you cut at full depth and lowest rpm on the TS? I'm sure the TSV is better when it comes to cut quality, but a fair comparison with the TS tuned the way it's supposed to would have been nice. I'd also be interested in how that TS handles melamine if you do a 1mm pre cut. Love the rest of the videos!
The 55 can do better with a 1mm precut and or by placing tape down but what I wanted to show was 1 pass comparisons of both saws - even with the tape and pre pass it does not compare to the TSV it's razor sharp literally touch it and your cut!
Festool USA ad just ran on this video at the 3/4 mark.
Only negative when doing a comparison make sure that both the saw depths are set the same.
On previous project did you use the scoring cut feature. Ie run score cut and then main cut? I believe every festool and makita track saw have a scoring setting.
Would be interesting to see if this new double blade saw compared to other saws with a scoring cut.
That's an option but consider the following 1) That requires two passes with the saw 2) The scoring blade on this saw runs in the opposite direction, the tooth comes down on material instead of lifting direction, greatly reducing chance of lifting and tear out.
Great. Looks like a good saw to keep away and only bring out for those finish show cuts then.
Though I’m still wondering if you did a score cut on your other project. I have a planned melamine edged top on one of my projects coming up. I’m wondering if I’ll have to re-think my plan.
@@christopheryale6867 sorry I missed the question, I did not it would for sure help and using tape would be another precaution. I had already cut all the parts and it wasn't until edge banding that I realized I had a problem. First time experiencing this problem because I do not use melamine regularly. (Taking it slow on the cut will also help as well as a new blade)
@@christopheryale6867 I have a TSC55 and have used a modified version of the scoring cut you mentioned. I set the blade to 2 mm depth and run the scoring cut in reverse (climb cut), pulling the saw towards me. Then I change depth to my desired depth, and push the saw through normally to complete the cut. This only works if you have a clean blade(no pitch build up on sides of teeth), and the blade is sharp. Also, because the depth of the scoring cut is only 2mm, there is little chance for kick back, and I make sure to only do this cut with the guide rail with the rail clamped to the work piece to ensure the rail doesn’t accidentally shift on me and potentially causing a bind. Yes this method still requires 2 passes compared to the TSV 60, but I am not a production shop and allows me to continue to use my cordless TSC.
I do the same thing as what @bobb5528 mentioned. I use a Makita track saw, which has a knob that I pull that sets the blade to a very low depth. I then operate the saw and move it from the end of my workpiece backwards to where I want the full depth cut to start. After this first scoring cut is made in reverse, I set the blade to the full cut depth that I need and plunge the blade down and move the saw forward along the track. This essentially performs the same function as this new Festool scoring blade in terms of a shallow pass of the blade running in the opposite direction of the full depth cut. But it does require two passes for every cut that I want to make.
great video, but if you are able to turn off the score blade why not use that to do both cuts? that way I would not be thinking, hang on what blade is it the small one !!
The first blade is the score blade, it's about 2" around and has a small carbide tooth runs in the opposite direction as a cutting blade. It's only purpose is to score the material that is to be cut by the standard blade.
If you are using the scoring blade does it really matter if you use your regular rail where the splinter guard will be inset a bit? Is the scoring blade narrower than the saw blade?
This saw cuts the splinter guide a little shorter or closer to the aluminum than what the other track saws use. Using another saw will now leave a gap between the blade and plastic guard. Does that answer your question?
@@fultonfinewoodworks Yes, I was thinking the reverse. That being the case, it looks like I've got another rail purchase or two in my future.
Do you get chips on the bottom of the panel?
No because the blade is entering the material and going up through the underside. It's only the topside that gets tear out because the blade comes up through the face of the material and exits the face.
Hi. Is the scoring function any different from running the main blade on a few mm scoring depth and then cutting on 2 passes? Appreciate it takes longer but curious to know if it is more than just a time saver. Thanks for the video
That's a way to do it for sure without this saw. Your correct the difference are two things really, time savings and also the scoring blade runs in the opposite direction to reduce even more the possibility of chip out. The blade can be dialed in with a micro adjuster and it's very accurate. You can turn this feature off when not needed also.
@@fultonfinewoodworks
Have you ever tried a backwards scoring cut?
I do with my TS 75, however the backwards scoring cut seems to take off a tiny bit more material, then I do a full plunge and it doesn't take as much off. And I mean not as much, like, 128th of an inch. Just barely enough that your fingernail can feel it.
The only thing I can think of is the blade isn't exactly at 90°. I could swear I calibrated it properly a while back.
I would do another test, same procedure but don't drop the blade so low for the first run. Plunge it the same as you did the second one...
The old school way is to set the plug depth very shallow and cut the material going backwards from the end of the material toward the start of the material. Scoring blade saves you from messing up your depth adjustment when you go back to full depth
yes but, if you notice he had the blade on the first run plunged all the way down instead of the teeth just deep enough to cut the material. That in itself would cause chipping of the material. The second saw he had the blade in the normal depth of cut. It was not a comparable example in my opinion@@PCHwoods
Im curious as to why you would be cutting melamine face up ?
Many times both sides are important in cabinet building
but.. the comparison should clearly have been between a regular, manual scoring cut (doing two passes, the first with the cut depth set to 2-3 mm and full depth on the second; either by using the built-in scoring depth setting that some saws have or by manually re-setting depth between each pass) and the tsv 60 double blade cut..? everyone knows that going straight to full depth on melamine is prone to tearout..
You can run two passes, use tape to protect but the point is to show what this saw does in one pass - perfection no extra steps
@@fultonfinewoodworks i got that, but it's a somewhat pointless comparison because nobody would do that cut in one pass if they wanted to minimize tearout. and the fact that you can do it in a single pass with this saw is kind of a self-explanatory benefit - everyone understands what one pass vs two passes entails (and it doesn't warrant a cut quality comparison in itself). for a CUT QUALITY comparison, the only relevant comparison is "what you can get with this saw in one pass vs what you can get with another saw in two passes". either the quality is comparable, in which case being able to do it in a single pass is the benefit, or the quality is also better, in which case it's a double win. but now it just seems like an apples and oranges comparison, masking the actual quality differences. that said - i do want the tsv 60, though.
@@d7samurai someone else has done the comparison you described and with a double pass the results are much better but there was still the occasional tearout vs 0 tearout with the TSV 60k